Thekid
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• Loveland, CO, USA |
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• Registered on 5/26/2005 |
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• 67 posts |
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 Posted:7/27/2005 09:53 |
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Ok, went and bought some clear tubing from Home Depot (5/16" to be exact). Sampled some 3/8" and was too big and 1/4" just looked too small.
Anyway, I need some advice on adjusting my doors (driver specifically). The bottom of the door fits very tight and the top doesn't even contact the rubber seal and the door won't close all the way (only catches first catch).
Is there a way to adjust the door so that the top tilts in and the bottom tilts out slightly? This way I can get an even seal from top to bottom? I'm thinking that I adjust the hinge where it attaches to the door, but want to make sure before I start messing with it.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. |
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Tantrum
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• Bergen County, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 7/26/2005 |
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• 52 posts |
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Posted:7/27/2005 10:45 |
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It sounds like the window frame may be bent. If the door itself seals you might make it worse by trying to adjust it.
If you roll down the window and pull on the frame you will be suprised at how easily it bends.
2005 PSD Limited 4x4 |
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Thekid
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• Loveland, CO, USA |
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• Registered on 5/26/2005 |
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• 67 posts |
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Posted:7/27/2005 10:52 |
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Ok, is bent window frames a common issue?
I know about this trick, basically put your knee on the window sill and pull in, but didn't figure this would an issue on such a new vehicle (2000 is new to me).
Anyway, guess I'll try this tonight. I found it by doing the dollar bill trick along the seal. |
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Tantrum
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• Bergen County, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 7/26/2005 |
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• 52 posts |
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Posted:7/27/2005 11:07 |
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Dont know if its common.......it shouldnt be.
Its worth a try or a second look though
2005 PSD Limited 4x4 |
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David Rush
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• Greenville, SC, USA |
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• Registered on 4/11/2004 |
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• 233 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:7/28/2005 05:41 |
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You could try try removing the rubber stop at the bottom of the door and see if it closes. If so, you can go to Home Depot and get some self adhesive silicone bummpers and try different sizes until you get the right combo for the lower part of the door. My lower bumper did not touch and I ended up adding to thick felt pads to get a contact so I would not get a rattle on a large bump. Good Luck!
David  |
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David Rush
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• Greenville, SC, USA |
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• Registered on 4/11/2004 |
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• 233 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:7/28/2005 05:42 |
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Sorry thats "bumpers" not bummmmmmpppppers! |
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David Rush
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• Greenville, SC, USA |
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• Registered on 4/11/2004 |
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• 233 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:7/28/2005 05:46 |
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One more thing--if the door is tight at the bottom the window is away--BUT your door won't latch--I would not bend the window frame as it sounds like the door is out of tilt. If all fails--take to a body shop--you don't want a window that won't go up or breaks. |
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Scott Stover
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• Fayetteville, NC, USA |
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• Registered on 4/16/2004 |
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• 354 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:7/30/2005 09:52 |
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Hey there David,
Will the bumper thing work for the rear doors?
Scott
2000 X 4x4 V-10 4.3 LS
K&N
Gibson Catback
"Custom" Kickplates |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:7/30/2005 13:53 |
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I'll assume the rear door frame weatherstripping is similar in construction and would have to say yes but I'll check 
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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Avnchief
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• Madison, AL, USA |
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• Registered on 12/20/2003 |
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• 9 posts |
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Posted:7/30/2005 20:53 |
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Hello All,
After lurking for a few months I finally have something "constructive" to add to the forums. 
Just finished the door seal "upgrade" and AC line insulation in same day.  
All day project for someone who doesn't change his own oil! After I built my first rod in HS and did a little street racing, I decided brains beat brawhn (and it pays better, usually).
Completed all passenger doors, back doors and lift gate. Used 3/8" around doors except B-pillar and C-pillars for front and passenger doors, respectively; and D-pillars for back doors. Used 1/4" on pillars to completely close doors; 3/8" would not catch 2nd latch.
Something that I had not seem mentioned in either thread on this task. The weatherstripping can be easily removed from all the doors; it is not a continuous piece. It will have a place that the two ends come together, which can be pulled apart. Check the forward lower area of the door for the connection seam. It is held together with a 2" foam plug, which can be pulled apart and removed easily. It is MUCH easier to insert the 3/8" tube from the end of the weatherstrip tube and you don't have to cut extra or enlarge weep holes. I is even easier if you just remove the strip completely off of the door, insert tubing, and reinstall. No tools required. And you don't tear your weatherstrip trying to stuff the tubing in through the weep holes. Soapy water in the weatherstrip and on the tube makes life a lot easier, too. Adding straight detergent to the tubing to lube during insertion helps too. But it is a trade off; the tube will be slipperier. Use a cloth to grip the tubing to insert, but do not wipe all of your "lube" off. If you take the strip off, mark the area that you will need to use different size tubing before removing from door frame. After learning all of this on the first door, it was a LOT easier.
Back doors and lift gate: 3/8 " all around, including the top of the doors for the bottom seal of the lift gate. One problem area was hinge side of both gates. Had to use 1/4" again like passenger doors to completely close. Only needed on pillar for doors; all else used 3/8".
Takes a little more pressure to close doors. Didn't need hardly any additional effort for lift gate. Now the doors close like one o' 'hem furn jobs!!! Have to pop your ears. Didn't take it on the road yet; tomorrow. Just sitting it is quieter. Have cat-back duals after muffler with 18" x 5" chrome tips at 45 degrees behind rear wheel wells (not quite a big block sound, but it still gets a second look!). They were significantly quiter. Can hear highs and lows on stereo much better. But the true test will be if I can use a hands free cell phone setup on the highway @ 80 mph. Then I will be a true believer.
Will post the AC insulation experience on that thread, but let's just say it wasn't nearly as easy.
BTW, love reading all the posts and ideas.
Still looking for the How-To for the amber tail light mod.
Haven't decided on clear Euro's or the ambers.
Ron
AvnChief
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