351W
Remote oil filter
In-line electric fuel pump
Rear sump oil pan from '92 ford F-150
Electric fan
Full size 36" wide 3 core radiator
Pro-tournament marine battery
Drivetrain:
'85 C-6
Custom tranny mount
NP205 twin-stick T-case
Homemade driveshafts
'78 f-150 ford 9" locked rear end
Matching '78 f-150 high pinion angle Dana 44 front end
Stonecrusher over knuckle steering system
All new brake lines
Long flexible brakelines from frame to axles
33" 12.50 boggers on 10" steel rims
19" gain in wheelbase width from stock measuring outside of tire width, also now have approx. 14" travel in suspension at the shock mounts.
Notes:
Full size bogger spare
4 inch fender flares
Cradled Warn tabor 9K winch
Front and rear receiver
2" James Duff poly body lift
Homemade bumpers and roll bar
1/4 inch steel rocker panel guards
Set of 4 pro comp ES-3000 long travel shocks
James Duff 3.5 " lift early bronco progressive rate coils
2" extended shackles
CB radio replaces ashtray
JVC cd player
Clinometer
Fire extinguisher
Grant steering wheel
Stainless hood pins
Removed rear top and 3 windows permanently
All the rest of the blue XLT interior was from the #4 parts truck, and doors and front driver fender from grey #3 truck.
I cut wrecked front passenger inner body out at door to center behind grill and replaced it with same piece from '86 Ranger.
DSCN3058.JPG 14 hits | 100.36 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 Lastly I had to make a 3/16 thick spacer because the adapter doesn't seat all the way. I used the NP205 gasket as a template. I siliconed both sides upon install.
DSCN3057.JPG 15 hits | 97.33 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 The tranny is a C-6 from a '85 bronco, it has a shorter tailshaft and adapter plate. But it had an aluminum chain drive t-case from the factory. The NP205 has a rear drive shift rail that totaly interferes with the mount plate but not with the bolt p...
DSCN3045.JPG 17 hits | 92.27 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 I tried to thin two identical shifters as much as possible, and added metal bushings and a longer bolt. I also greased the crap out of it all.
DSCN3044.JPG 16 hits | 90.37 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 I made shift linkage from a 3/4 inch union pipe fitting and drilled it to install a keeper, then welded a tab off it at an angle to keep the same shifter throw as the other one.
DSCN3054.JPG 16 hits | 86.15 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 Get an item such as an allen wrench approx the same size as the punch and reach into the p.t.o. hole and hold the fork on the shift ring. Then pull punch, slide out the shift rail, and slide allen wrench or w/e into freeze plugg hole and into fork ro...
DSCN3051.JPG 14 hits | 92.86 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 I pulled this back out after it was correct right after I measured it in the previous pick. As your grinding and checking make sure you cant put it into high and low at the same time. I did the middle spot until it was right and then did the rear spo...
DSCN3050.JPG 13 hits | 88.4 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 Grind the shift rail. You'll have to install the shift rail and roll pin a few times cuz you wanna try to grind off as little as possible. It will take a few tries for sure. Grind small amounts and keep the depth level. The middle notch gets a gradua...
DSCN3048.JPG 14 hits | 95.88 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 Drive in freeze plugg and use the same hole to drive in the roll pin that holds the shift fork to the rail. You'll have to move the rail in and out to look in hole and see it. Knock it all the way in till it falls into case and leave the punch in for...
DSCN3047.JPG 17 hits | 89.29 KB | Posted: 5/21/09 Remove the bolt housing the spring and ball , this is the gear selector placement. Now the shift rail should slide freely. This modification is all done to the rear wheel drive shift rail, the one near the input and rear yoke.
V-8 swap My father-in-law donated his great running 351W from his '79 T-bird to my project, He had modified the car and used it like a truck and had gotten alot of use from it, I brought it home and pulled the motor, tore it down, cleaned and painted it Cummins beige. I purchased a rear sump oil pan and pick up tube from a '92 ford f-150. It requires the feul pump to be removed and a cover made for the hole and bolted on, and an in-line electric pump installed. It also requires a remote oil filter kit, both of these clearance problems are caused by the steering box. Raising the motor higher isn't an option because the tranny bell housing doesnt have the room to come up. I used the motor mounts from the T-bird and bent the tab on the front side of each one flat. They worked by shimming a 1/4" plate steel piece under them and welding it to the crossmember, and drilling the crossmember. The alternator bolted right onand the old belt fit fine but the power steering pump sat right down on the steering box. so I cut the adjustment slot open at the end so it would tilt up higher and bought a longer belt. That seems to work but I havent driven it yet so I don't know for sure the pump will perform well tilted that much, we'll see. The exhaust is a problem for sure, headers wont fit without modification and the stock manifolds will not work at all. My friend and neighbor, Brian, has a Ford galaxy that has manifolds on it I think will fit perfectly, I'm currently trying to get a set or possibly trade him some headers for them. He says the same manifolds come of the galaxy, comet, and maverick vehicles, and also fit 289,302,and 351W.
Hood pins My hood latch release cable was cut when it was wrecked before I bought it. When I fixed the front end I set the hood latch to just latch loosely and not fully. Now that its tagged and I get up to speed the hood was wiggling and freaked me out a little, so I bought hood pins.
Fender flares The mud was being thrown all over the windshield and in the bed, this is to be expected but it was while just rolling down the trail. I just used some vinyl I found at the local hardware store and rivited them on and shaped them the best I could. I really like the front ones and the rear will do for now. It totally fixed the problem I'm happy to say.
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