1995 4.9L from F-150. Completely transplanted, including computer, air filter, y-pipe, & all accessories. 130A alternator, 1996 Bronco gas tank & pump. K&N drop-in.
1978 F-250 NP-435; '93 BW1356 clocked; reman rear d'shaft; rebuilt front d'shaft; '96 Bronco D44IFS with 3.07 open diff; rebuilt Ford 8.8" 3.08 open; stock F&R antisway bars & Energy polyurethane bushings all around.
It has been completely rebuilt from the ground up for the 2nd time now. Most of the body & frame are '93, the tailgate is a '96, the door mirrors are heavily modified with LEDs, and the camper shell is a '96 with a '94 Explorer roof rack & '82 sliding windows. The rear seat is the original '83 part, but the front seats are '97 Econoline captain's chairs. The instrument cluster & wiring harnesses have been heavily modified so the factory fuel reset light works, and a semi-factory low fuel light has been added. I've added AutoLamps, AutoDimming Brights, RKE, one-touch both directions for all windows, an auto-dimming compass rear-view mirror, dual visors, dual spotlight wiring, always-on PW. The CB & radar detector are hard-wired. Planned mods include a sunroof & articulated doors. The bumpers are my own design (mostly hand-built). The front includes recovery points & a Ramsey RE12000. The rear bumper has an integral hitch receiver & 3 locking storage boxes.
Xtract4.JPG 10 hits | 109.97 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 Chase the nut plate with a 3/8"-16 tap so the bolt goes in easily, then apply anti-seize lube during assembly. When the nut plate is in-place, bend its retaining tabs back down with a hammer.
Xtract3.JPG 9 hits | 125.73 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 Use a file to carefully remove the remaining bolt until only its thread is left. Using a rough file with high pressure should pull the thread out of the nut plate threads.
Xtract2.JPG 10 hits | 124.53 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 Grind the broken bolt flat & flush with the nut plate on both sides, center punch it, and drill 5/16".
Xtract1.JPG 7 hits | 115.16 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 The bottom hinge bolts commonly rust, seize, cross-thread, and break, so use a good bolt as a drift to hammer the nut plate down, bending its tabs until it can be removed from the t/g.
TGshield.JPG 10 hits | 127.53 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 The factory drip shield is just painted paper with duct tape along the bottom (which has never made sense to me), and it's almost useless. I'm surprised this one is in such good condition.
TGnew04.JPG 11 hits | 100.42 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 Reverse the dimples with the drill bit tip and they should be perfectly aligned with the bracket inside. A stepped bit will do less damage to the threads, but don't let it go to a step larger than the nut holes.
TGnew03.JPG 11 hits | 112.06 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 To perfectly center the swingaway bolt holes, install a pointed bolt in the bracket from inside the t/g so it presses against the skin, then use a rubber mallet from the outside to dimple the sheet metal.
TGnew02.JPG 7 hits | 105.15 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 Any automotive undercoating will significantly reduce the chances of tailgate rust, and I'm putting it on heavy.
TGnew01.JPG 9 hits | 128 KB | Posted: 4/21/14 The previous owner rear-ended this '96 XLT Sport, and installed a replacement t/g with a trim panel. The new owner wants it to look right (no trim panel), so he bought this new t/g without holes for me to install. It's marketed for '83-93 because i...
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DLC EEC-IV.jpg 42904 hits | 34.58 KB | Posted: 9/18/05 Diagnostic Link Connectors for EEC-IV processors ('84-95).
'84-86 (red) located on R wheelwell near starter relay.
'87-95 (black or gray) located under L hood hinge under EEC TEST cover. (WPT-743 & WPT-352)
'94-96 Bronco - do not confuse with RED ...
DoorSticker.jpg 42756 hits | 89.47 KB | Posted: 7/14/03 Vehicle Certification (VC) Sticker
(typically on the rear edge of the driver's door of 4-door models, or the rear of the driver's door opening below the beltline of 2-door models)
FDM.jpg 26783 hits | 54.36 KB | Posted: 1/20/06 FDM & Fuel Pressure
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The FDM connector shown is for '94-96; '90-93 use the older connector (WPT454) that mounts directly to the FDM plate.
Replacing the actuators is a PITA, even though the parts are cheap & easy-to-find at parts stores for ~$20ea. Call your local used car lots & independent repair shops for the number of a local steering column specialis...
PSGearBox.JPG 19943 hits | 91.8 KB | Posted: 5/7/07 Ford Integral Power Steering Gear Box