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01StepInstalla.jpg | Hits: 6447 | Size: 97.13 KB | Posted on: 9/5/11 | Link to this image


'94-96 F-series & Bronco Cab Steps (Running Boards F1TZ16450AK) (Original kit: F3TZ-16450-L)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

ERROR: The L bracket #7 in the Bronco inset (for the quarter panel) is NOT the same PN as the front one (also marked #7). The (Bronco only) rear bracket (F4TZ16488A) has 2 anti-spin tabs; the front (F2T316C078AB) has only 1. The same bracket is used (in each case) for Left & Right.
UPDATE: As of 2023, I have the small front & rear L brackets that connect the ends of the fiberglass steps to the body, and the bridges glued to the steps' ends for sale.



NOT CALLED OUT: foam self-adhesive weatherstrip (F2TZ16536B) on top edge of step (#3) very similar to TrimLok P-bulb HT but replaceable by twin bulb strip.

Installation & Alignment:
1) Install the step assembly (#3) onto the bracket (#5) using 2 nuts (#4, 13mm hex)
2) Install bracket (#7, x2 for Bronco) loosely
3) Position the step & bracket below the body; install 4 rocker bolts (#1, 10mm hex) loosely
4) Install 2 inboard bolts (#6, 10mm hex) loosely
5) Raise step so its top edge contacts the bottom lip of the rocker/fender/quarter; align the front curve of the step with the front wheel arch; tighten 4 rocker bolts
6) Push the step inboard so its outboard edge aligns with the lowest body line; tighten 2 inboard bolts
7) Install 2 tab bolts (#2, 8mm hex) and bracket screw (#8, 5.5mm hex, x2 for Bronco) and tighten

The factory bracket is made of thin-walled steel tubing that was only painted on the OUTside, so it collects water & mud, and rusts from the inside out. It's also very susceptible to damage. The factory bracket #5 without anything attached weighs ~5lbs; I'm not sure how much the $500 reproduction version weighs (but it won't work if your steps' long studs are rusted off); mine weighs 13.5 lbs. If you want a set, scroll down (or keep clicking "NEXT" at the top left of the page if you're only looking at this diagram) and read all the captions in this photo album.

See also:
. .
___________________________________________________________
TSB 95-08-06 RUNNING BOARDS - INCORRECTLY INSTALLED -NOISE VIBRATION HARSHNESS CONCERNS
Publication Date: APRIL 24, 1995 (This TSB is being republished in its entirety to include vehicles through the 1995 model year.)

LIGHT TRUCK:
1987-90 BRONCO II
1987-95 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES, RANGER
1988-95 F SUPER DUTY
1991-95 EXPLORER

ISSUE: Running boards which are incorrectly installed may result in noise/vibration complaints.

ACTION: Install running boards to either the body OR the frame; NEVER to both unless the mounting system uses isolated mounts. A manufacturer's instruction to attach running boards to both body and frame should be immediately questioned because such action provides a direct path from chassis to body for road vibration and noise.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 91-04-11
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 108000, 702000, 703000

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StepBracketsOE.JPG | Hits: 3591 | Size: 99.9 KB | Posted on: 2/8/12 | Link to this image


SOLD
OE Step Brackets from '94-96 Bronco or F-series (& '97 over 8500GVWR) fits '92-96 w/o drilling or '80-91 with drilling
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The L one (F2TZ16A507A) has a ~1/2" dent on the bottom of the rear tube, and the R one (F2TZ16A506A) is beginning to rust through in 1 small spot - not enough to affect strength. Some bolts & U-nuts are included (as shown).

See also:

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Step94Bcopr.JPG | Hits: 2114 | Size: 134.16 KB | Posted on: 2/23/12 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Step missing tabs

No cracks or scuffs on the face; minor abrasion on the bottom lip.


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Steps95.JPG | Hits: 4690 | Size: 101.65 KB | Posted on: 5/21/09 | Link to this image


SOLD Bronco Steps from '95 EB



For installation, see this:

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PNr.JPG | Hits: 2255 | Size: 77.72 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


In typical Ford fashion, the passenger (RIGHT) side PN is one lower (F4TZ-16A470-A); the driver's step PN is F4TZ-16A471-A.

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StepLHF95.JPG | Hits: 2291 | Size: 84.22 KB | Posted on: 4/10/11 | Link to this image


The factory mounted the step fully below the body with a foam strip (F2TZ16536B) between them to protect the paint & prevent noise. The front end is straight & flat under the fender. The Bronco back end curls up slightly into the wheel arch. F-series back ends are flat and curl around under the back of the cab with an integral steel tab.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.



This would probably be a good addition to the steps, if you can still find a set:



If not, the universal set is reasonably good:


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StepRHF95.JPG | Hits: 1998 | Size: 81.9 KB | Posted on: 4/10/11 | Link to this image


The factory mounted the step fully below the body with a foam strip (F2TZ16536B) between them to protect the paint & prevent noise. The front end is straight & flat under the fender. The Bronco back end curls up slightly into the wheel arch. F-series back ends are flat and curl around under the back of the cab with an integral (glued-on) steel tab.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.



This would probably be a good addition to the steps, if you can still find a set:



If not, the universal set is reasonably good:


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StepRHR95.JPG | Hits: 2417 | Size: 77.3 KB | Posted on: 4/10/11 | Link to this image


The factory mounted the step fully below the body with a foam strip (F2TZ16536B) between them to protect the paint & prevent noise. On Broncos, the rear end wraps up into the wheel arch slightly. On Fs, the rear end wraps around the back of the cab; it never continues to the bed.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised '95-97 door with a side impact beam.



This would probably be a good addition to the steps, if you can still find a set:



If not, the universal set is reasonably good:


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StepLHU95.JPG | Hits: 1949 | Size: 73.25 KB | Posted on: 4/10/11 | Link to this image


This bracket appears to be in perfect condition, and in the factory location (no ground contact, rust, or collision).

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StepRHRi95.JPG | Hits: 1947 | Size: 60.09 KB | Posted on: 4/10/11 | Link to this image


The rear end of a Bronco step is attached exacly like the front of all steps; a U-clip/bridge bonded to the fiberglass step face, and bolted to an L bracket (F2T3-16C078-AB front; F4TZ16488A rear), attached by the wheelwell screw. F-series bolt a bonded clip directly to the cab.

UPDATE: As of 2023, I have the small front & rear L brackets that connect the ends of the fiberglass steps to the body, and the bridges glued to the steps' ends for sale.


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EndClips.jpg | Hits: 1171 | Size: 54.09 KB | Posted on: 3/6/18 | Link to this image


Cab Step End Clips

All trucks use the same front clip. Pickup cabs do not use a rear clip - the step's bonded tab screws directly to the cab.


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EndsYield24b.jpg | Hits: 33 | Size: 97.82 KB | Posted on: 2/29/24 | Link to this image


Cab Step Ends
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Bridges and L-clips are now available in pairs, both by direct contact, or on eBay. Only Broncos use all 4 pairs; F-series only use purple & yellow pairs. The gaps in the reproduction bridges' feet improve adhesion since the glue has more surface area to bond to.

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XcabF.jpg | Hits: 2078 | Size: 37.83 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


Cab steps are rare. Bronco cab steps are rarer. X-cab steps may be the rarest because I'm not sure factory crew-cab (4-door) steps exist.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.


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XcabR.jpg | Hits: 1157 | Size: 52.98 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


Cab steps are rare. Bronco cab steps are rarer. X-cab steps may be the rarest because I'm not sure factory crew-cab (4-door) steps exist.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.


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RustedStud.JPG | Hits: 2253 | Size: 84.08 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


In addition to the bracket tubing rusting out, the step mounting studs often rust off. Check yours before ordering so I can send the correct hardware.

If they're rusted, or if they break off during removal, use this procedure to install them using a new stubby bolt for each ruined long stud:

. .

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StepStuds.JPG | Hits: 1914 | Size: 79.72 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


If the factory long studs are intact like the one at the top L of this pic, installing them on my thin brackets requires the addition of a sleeve spacer on each long stud.

The center stud (far RIGHT of the pic) is shorter & unused by the factory, other than for locating the step. My design allows this short stud to be used for step attachment, and appropriate nuts are included.

The tread pad (F2TZ16490A) is attached like the front bumper strips & rear bumper pads.

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RustedStue.JPG | Hits: 1849 | Size: 82.28 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


In addition to the bracket tubing rusting out, the step mounting studs often rust off. This may not be noticeable if the brackets are still solid because the steps will remain fairly tight even when these studs are gone.

The tread pad (F2TZ16490A) is attached like the front bumper strips & rear bumper pads.

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Stud.JPG | Hits: 1827 | Size: 84.29 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


In addition to the bracket tubing rusting out, the step mounting studs often rust off. This may not be noticeable if the brackets are still solid because the steps will remain fairly tight even when these studs are gone.

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Stue.JPG | Hits: 1886 | Size: 86.28 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


The studs are riveted to the step plate by their heads. If the threaded end rusts off, the unthreaded shoulder can be threaded for attachment to a thinner bracket. If that's not possible, the stud can be ground off, drilled through, & a new bolt installed.

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Stuf.JPG | Hits: 1830 | Size: 71.54 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


The studs are riveted to the step plate by their heads. If the threaded end rusts off, the unthreaded shoulder can be threaded for attachment to a thinner bracket. If that's not possible, the stud can be ground off, drilled through, & a new bolt installed.

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TreadArea1.JPG | Hits: 1927 | Size: 72.37 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


The step pad (F2TZ16490A) covers most of the step bracket, so the studs could be replaced by drilling through the fiberglass where the pad will hide the hole.

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Stud1.jpg | Hits: 1110 | Size: 106.53 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


This can't be attached to any step bracket, but it can be cut off flat, center-punched, drilled, and tapped to receive a bolt.

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Stud2.jpg | Hits: 1327 | Size: 123.37 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


The first step is to remove the tread pad (F2TZ16490A) so it's not damaged by drilling. Pinch the retainers while either pushing them through, or prying between the tread & the step.

.

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Stud3.jpg | Hits: 1228 | Size: 109.84 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


Next, cut the old stud off flush, center-punch it, and drill 17/64" straight through the steel & fiberglass. This is why the step pad (F2TZ16490A) should be removed first.

.

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Stud5.jpg | Hits: 1334 | Size: 116.69 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


These stubby bolts are identical (other than length) to those used to hold the step brackets to the body; they're common on Fords; and they're long enough for my bracket design. The hole in the fiberglass will prevent the bolt tip from cracking the step or pushing it off the plate. The tread pad (F2TZ16490A) will cover it anyway. And to attach the step to an original tube bracket, a longer bolt can be used (like the inboard bolts #6 in the first diagram of this photo album).

Drill the step plate 17/64" before tapping M8x1.25 .

.

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51Installed.JPG | Hits: 2371 | Size: 84.93 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


My bracket holds the step in the factory position using only the factory holes. For this test-fit, the front & rear of the fiberglass are not attached to the truck - the step is only attached to the bracket by the center stud. It's almost as solid this way as when using the long studs.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.



See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

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52Installed.JPG | Hits: 1978 | Size: 81.36 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


The bracket holds the step in the factory position using only factory holes. For this test-fit, the front & rear of the fiberglass are not attached to the truck - the step is only attached to the bracket by the center stud. It's almost as solid this way as when using the long studs.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.



See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

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54Installed.JPG | Hits: 1774 | Size: 79.24 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


The bracket holds the step in the factory position using only factory holes. For this test-fit, the front & rear of the fiberglass are not attached to the truck - the step is only attached to the bracket by the center stud. It's almost as solid this way as when using the long studs. From this low angle, the bracket is barely visible; no moreso than the factory bracket would be.

The factory bracket without anything attached weighs ~5lbs; mine weighs ~13 lbs.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.



See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

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55Installed.JPG | Hits: 2081 | Size: 73.46 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


The bracket holds the step in the factory position using only factory holes. For this test-fit, the front & rear of the fiberglass are not attached to the truck - the step is only attached to the bracket by the center stud. It's almost as solid this way as when using the long studs. From this low angle, the bracket is barely visible; no moreso than the factory bracket would be.

The factory bracket without anything attached weighs ~5lbs; mine weighs ~13 lbs.

See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

The subtle body line near the bottom edge of this door indicates it's a '95-96 with side impact beam.


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55LoadTest.JPG | Hits: 1980 | Size: 85.39 KB | Posted on: 3/9/11 | Link to this image


With 240lbs on the outermost edge and only 1 nut holding the fiberglass on, the step doesn't budge at all. It feels like it's attached to the frame.

The factory bracket without anything attached weighs ~5lbs; mine weighs ~13 lbs.

Note the extra body line at the bottom of the door indicating this is a revised door with a side impact beam.



See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

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56LoadTest.JPG | Hits: 1835 | Size: 75.89 KB | Posted on: 3/16/11 | Link to this image


The 1/8-inch-thick bracket seems more than adequate. It's just as rigid with me standing on it as the 1/4-inch version, but it weighs ~2/3 as much (making it cheaper to ship) and is easier to build. This test indicates that it's plenty strong since I changed a tire lifting the truck by the step bracket with the step installed. After I lowered the truck, removed the jack, and stood on the step, it dropped less than 3/16-inch.

See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

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CabSteps6.JPG | Hits: 1690 | Size: 124.07 KB | Posted on: 5/7/14 | Link to this image


I've gotten several e-mails recently about these, so I had the plasma cutter make me a few sets of parts from 10ga sheet steel (~1/8"). This is enough for 12 steps (6 pairs), and it all takes up less room than 1 fiberglass step would, without its original bracket. I plan to store them like this until they're ordered - it only takes a couple of hours to put a set together.
UPDATE: As of Sep, 2022, I have several laser-cut sets.

We're still working on the correct layout & table settings to get the engraving to look good, but it's not visible when the step is installed, anyway.



UPDATE: As of 2023, I have the small front & rear L brackets that connect the ends of the fiberglass steps to the body, and the bridges glued to the steps' ends for sale.


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CabSteps5b.JPG | Hits: 1694 | Size: 104.2 KB | Posted on: 5/26/14 | Link to this image


My Yield Designs plasma-cut 10ga (~1/8") brackets weigh 25.9 lbs per pair and ship from 38016/38033/38060 around 25x18x8". FedEx Ground/HomeDelivery will accept them without a box (as shown); UPS charges ~$11 extra without a box - I'm not sure about other carriers. Use these dimensions with my ZIP (38133) and yours to check shipping rates on the various websites. I don't charge handling - you pay actual shipping. But if you want to use PayPal, you pay their fees in addition to what I receive.
https://www.fedex.com/ratefinder/home?cc=us&language=en&locId=express
http://www.ups.com/?Site=Corporate&cookie=us_en_home&inputImgTag=&setCookie=yes
http://postcalc.usps.com/
http://www.shipgreyhound.com/e/SitePages/gpxStep1.aspx

The hardware included is intended to be used to replace the bracket on a truck originally factory-equipped with steps. If you are adding steps to a truck NOT originally equipped with steps, OR if any of your original fasteners are damaged/lost, I MIGHT be able to provide additional fasteners at additional cost.
UPDATE: As of 2023, I have the small front & rear L brackets that connect the ends of the fiberglass steps to the body, and the bridges glued to the steps' ends for $10/pr, and I might have enough to sell them separately, either by direct contact, or on eBay.

Even without paint, it would probably take a decade for these 10ga brackets to weaken, but you can spray-paint them before installation. I recommend Rustoleum Primer/Sealer (available at WalMart & others) or rubberized undercoating. These brackets will work with the factory steps, or with custom steps. I haven't checked yet, but they SHOULD work with the factory-look DeflectaShield steps or Centurion running boards.

To install them:
1) ensure the body mounts are NOT collapsed, and that the body is approximately centered on the frame. Broncos have the e-brake cable bracket directly below one of the step bracket bolt holes, so it may be necessary to remove a small section of the cable bracket.
. .
2) cut any shipping wires, and remove all fasteners except the red bolts. Retain all included hardware.
3) pivot the center panel upright (about 45%uFFFD) as indicated. Spray-paint or powdercoat if desired.
4) remove the original brackets beginning with the 13mm nuts under the tubes. It is NOT necessary to remove the fiberglass steps from the body to install the new brackets, and working those fasteners may break their steel stanchions off the fiberglass steps.
5) remove all the original U-nuts from the original tubes and transfer them to the new brackets in the corresponding locations on the center panel.
6) If necessary, repair the 2 long studs on the steps by releasing the black step pads, drilling through the fiberglass above the damaged stud, and installing a new stubby bolt. The step pad will hide the hole.

7) position the small bracket under the rearmost inboard mounting hole on the indicated side, and install a short bolt upward (loosely) through the floor rib. The bent tab at the outboard end of the L can be adjusted to lie flat against the rocker rib so that its hole aligns with that rearmost slot.
8a) If the step is still attached to the truck: raise the new step bracket onto the step studs so it aligns with the body holes;
8b) If the step is off the truck: install the step loosely on the bracket, and lift them together;
8c) Insert the frontmost & rearmost bolts (loosely) in the rocker rib & center panel to support the new bracket.
9) install the remaining nuts & bolts (loosely), adding spacers to the long studs if necessary.
10) use the rocker slots to adjust the height of the step against the rocker; use the floor slots to adjust the in-out alignment of the step. Align the steps fore-aft with the wheel arches.
11) tighten all fasteners to the specs listed in the OE bracket diagram.


See also:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/95-08-06.php3

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CabSteps5cut.jpg | Hits: 1113 | Size: 131.36 KB | Posted on: 5/26/14 | Link to this image


If the body mounts are collapsed &/or the the body is offcenter on the frame, one solution is to remove this section of the e-brake cable bracket to prevent fouling against the step bracket. But the proper fix is to install new (black Energy poly) body mounts, and center the body on the frame.


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CabSteps5distances.jpg | Hits: 1663 | Size: 130.88 KB | Posted on: 5/26/14 | Link to this image


Check body mount height & body centering, particularly on the driver's side near the e-brake cable bracket.


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StepsVisors.JPG | Hits: 1711 | Size: 85.57 KB | Posted on: 2/23/11 | Link to this image


SOLD Original Bronco Cab Steps, dual visors, RV mirror, harness 33.8# 74x13x9"

.

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StepsVisort.JPG | Hits: 1456 | Size: 94.75 KB | Posted on: 2/23/11 | Link to this image


SOLD Original Bronco Cab Steps, dual visors, RV mirror, harness 33.8# 74x13x9"

The box lid weighs almost 4#.

.

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StepsVisoru.JPG | Hits: 1555 | Size: 70.34 KB | Posted on: 2/23/11 | Link to this image


SOLD Original Bronco Cab Steps, dual visors, RV mirror, harness 33.8# 74x13x9"

.

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96Bsv04.JPG | Hits: 1041 | Size: 95.96 KB | Posted on: 5/20/15 | Link to this image


Aftermarket cab steps were available from Deflecta-Shield and possibly others, but their support structure was weaker than Ford's (even when NOT supporting the whole weight of the truck). Note that this design doesn't hang as low as Ford's, and has a shallower toe pocket. The tread is a soft rubber sheet glued to the step.


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