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A new radiator is a couple hundred bucks, but a junkyard might sell one as low as $30, so it can be worth a risk, if you inspect it carefully before buying AND test it while it's still in warranty (30 days usually).  .  For more info, read this article that fully explains the cooling system, and this one that explains how to rebuild a plastic-tank radiator at home.
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This is a ~19-year-old factory radiator. It's a 2-core (heavy-duty) with an ATF cooler from a '93 F150 4.9L E4OD. 171Z-16ETK240- .
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I noticed all these cracks before I bought this junkyard radiator. But since the truck wasn't wrecked, and there are no signs of coolant leaks or overheating, and they only appear on the rear face of the hot side, I decided they must simply be from the sealant cooking & curling away. Since it's holding ~12psi right now, they're fine.
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I tested it on the truck at 13psi (same as the cap) and although there were no obvious leaks, I could hear a tiny fizz on the L side... GO TO THE NEXT PIC... Coolant Pressure Tester Set
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The leak is so small it's not visible - only a tiny speck of liquid at one end of the crack suggests its location.
GO TO THE NEXT PIC...
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With the radiator removed, ports plugged, and Windex on the tank, the leak is apparent, even at 7psi.
GO TO THE NEXT PIC...
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With the area dry, it disappears again. This suggests that it CAN be repaired, since it's so close to the large inlet nipple, and on a flat surface, and the plastic isn't degraded. Not every plastic radiator tank leak is in such a convenient position, and not all are in such good overall condition. If the leak was any worse (and I was desperate, broke, or bored), I'd uncrimp the tank seam, pull it off, and fix it more thoroughly. . GO TO THE NEXT PIC... UPDATE: 6/5/15 After 3 years, this tank blew out farther down on the side, and I replaced it with a new one from 1800RADIATOR. I may open this old one up and fiddle with it some day...
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This is the plan:
1) drink the Sprite
2) cut the can open
3) cut a patch of thin Aluminum
4) sand the patch & the inside of the radiator tank
5) clean both surfaces thoroughly with degreaser & brake cleaner
6) dry both thoroughly
7) quickly apply E6000 to the patch, insert it, press it into place, reinstall the plug, and pressurize the radiator to force the wet adhesive into the leak, carrying the patch with it. JBWeld or JBKwik would also work, and I've used them successfully on another radiator repair.
GO TO THE NEXT PIC...
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The hose clamp around the nipple prevents the expansion plug from splitting it.
At 13psi again, the leak is rapidly diminishing... Eventually, it stopped completely, but I found one more nearby in the tank seam.
GO TO THE NEXT PIC...
UPDATE: 6/5/15 (about 3 years later) this tank blew out farther down on the side, and I replaced it with a new one from 1800RADIATOR. I may open this old one up and fiddle with it.
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Some GENTLE pressure on the tank seam stopped the tiny leak there. As long as the cap ONLY holds ~13psi, this radiator should last many more years. If I had gotten the impression that the leaks couldn't be sealed, I'd have returned the radiator to the JY for exchange, or credit until they got a better one. . For more info, read this article that fully explains the cooling system, and this one that explains how to rebuild a plastic-tank radiator at home. UPDATE: 6/5/15 the Left tank blew out farther down on the side, and I replaced it with a new one from 1800RADIATOR. I may open this old one up and fiddle with it.
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SOLD 96 V-8 Radiator Fan shroud available Radiator lower isolator/mount is E5TZ8125A .
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SOLD Fan shroud for 84-96 V8 F-series & Bronco from 96 5.8L Bronco.
Engineering number F4TA-8146-DC
Fan hole 20" diameter, 7" deep
Fits core 19x27"
Actual dimensions: 27x21x7" , 4.2 lbs
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Radiator Cap Pressure Testing
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
A pressure tester & cap adapter are required to test the radiator cap. If the tools are not available, a new RS62 cap is ~$10.
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Radiator Repair
