351W stock, Bassani Headers, Y Pipe and Cat Back, MSD TFI coil. Custom K&N FPIK. Ford Racing 9mm wires, Flex-A-Lite E-fans.
Drivetrain:
all stock, 3:55 gears front and rear, limited slip in the rear, 2.5" Tuff Country lift in the front 2.5 ProComp in the rear. PowerStop ambulance rotors. Warn preimium locking hubs.
Notes:
Stereo Equipment Gallor, all custom made/installed by me. 99' Ford Explorer over-head console, Custom built center console.
IMG_2087.JPG 131 hits | 53.38 KB | Posted: 4/1/07 The whole fleet poses for a picture.
IMG_2080.JPG 139 hits | 66.67 KB | Posted: 4/1/07 851 after a good scrubing, leave it to me to drive it in to the grass and take pictures, acctually I was ordered to drive it into the grass, the pictures on the other hand......
IMG_2246.JPG 138 hits | 50.48 KB | Posted: 4/1/07 Ol' 851 I drove this sucker for 14,000 miles and its almost as old at me (85' vintage)
IMG_3833.JPG 137 hits | 45.91 KB | Posted: 4/1/07 Mini 37 I know this pushed the boundries of what some would call "sanity" but I dont care. Yes it sits on my desk, and yes occasionally I play with it like a 3 year old.
Front Road side.jpg 139 hits | 50.8 KB | Posted: 4/1/07 Poor 37 sits after being de-commisioned, one of the best buses I ever drove.
Front-Curb side 1.jpg 116 hits | 60.27 KB | Posted: 4/1/07 37, a wonderful 69' GMC I drove while at Kent State, also where I got started w/buses
IMG_3430.JPG 191 hits | 84.52 KB | Posted: 12/11/06 Here is the wiring harness before I put it in. Again, I re-did it after this pic to fix somethings.
Most Viewed Files
S3500516.JPG 2422 hits | 79.46 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 Once you have the front part of the auto hub out, there is a small C-clip holding the second half in, there are also 3 washers that should go Splined metal-plastic-Metal from outside to in.
S3500515.JPG 2148 hits | 60.3 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 I found that a very small pair of needle nose pliers works the best for this, just because you can grab it if it tries to slip back in.
S3500517.JPG 2144 hits | 70.95 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 I converted to Warn premium’s so I needed the spindle nut conversion. The new nut system is on top and the old one is on the bottom. You need the conversion because the old nut does not allow enough room for the new hubs.
S3500519.JPG 1984 hits | 72.93 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 Now that you have the hub and rotor off, remove both sets of bearings, if they didn’t fall out already, now the not so fun part, you have to beat the studs out with a hammer, and while you do that you can just smack the studs a little more to get the...
S3500513.JPG 1957 hits | 66.74 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 I had 3 screw autos; here is what they look like with the cover off
IMG_1351.JPG 1870 hits | 58.79 KB | Posted: 2/6/05 And yes the tray still fits, although i still have some loose ends to work out, like the fact that none of the gauges read anything, and i still need to make a lid
S3500525.JPG 1862 hits | 78.07 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 Then tighten the adjuster nut to 50ft lbs, loosen it the re tighten it to 30-40ft lbs. Once the bearings a seated, put the middle lock washer in, make sure you line up the peg on the adjuster nut to one of the holes in the washer, if not there isn’t...
S3500512.JPG 1778 hits | 92.43 KB | Posted: 11/1/03 Here are all the parts I needed. The rotors had a picture of an ambulance and a cop car on the front and said something about stopping emergency equipment, and being really heavy duty. I hope the don’t warp after like 5000 miles like the last set
S3500522.JPG 1688 hits | 78.3 KB | Posted: 11/2/03 The ABS ring, studs and an old bearing next to a new one.
