2 Big Broncos Forums
John Robert Miller
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 12/21/2002 |
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• 596 posts |
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 Posted:10/2/2003 16:08 |
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Alright folks, I need your help in setting up a game plan for Hoss. As many of you know, I have had Hoss for going on one year (this month actually). As of now it has spent literally more time in the shop than I have had possession of it. I've had a good bit of work done to it and spent ALOT of money on it. The majority of the work has been fixing someone else's mistakes and oversights. I need ya’ll help in figuring out what to do from here on out. I have decided to do one of two things: either get new axles and put them under it, or sell it and get a mid 90’s F-350 and build it up. I know many of you say I need to get rid of the 44”’s, but once you’ve been big, it’s hard to go smaller.
If I do keep Hoss, I know it’ll need new axles; they’re my weakest link. From the little research I’ve done, I think the biggest I can put up front is a Dana 60 with little modification. As far as the rear goes, I suppose it’s nearly unlimited-I have no idea. Some current problems I’m facing are that I just found out today that my front passenger U-joint is evidently missing a “cap”(no idea what this is). I was also told my “lateral link” has a lot of slack, more than likely due to binding. Also the “power valve” on my carb is blown. These are little things that aggravate me. What it all boils down to is that I have $15k+ invested in this rig, and I have yet to enjoy it. I don’t know how much more money I’m going to have to put into it until I can finally play in it and get something back. If I did sell it, I couldn’t take less than $7k; that would be my absolute minimum.
If I sold Hoss, I’d buy a mid 90’s F-350 and lift it enough to clear 44”’s (more than likely Boggers). I’d purchase some re-tread 37” to run on the street and to runs. In my mind, this seems like a simple build up; new leaf spring, drive shafts, gears, locker, brake lines, and steering geometry. But, I don’t now much about all this, so I’m sure that I am simplifying it.
I need ya’lls help in determining what to do. The only input I’m getting from others is that this is a mechanics truck; and I’m sure as hell no mechanic. If ya’ll think swapping new axles in would be the best way to go, please recommend which one’s and why. My goal with this rig was to be as “bulletproof” as possible. Here lately, it’s been the exact opposite. I would appreciate any feedback ya’ll would offer.
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schmuck
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• nola, XX, USA |
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• Registered on 5/21/2003 |
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• 1,187 posts |
• 1
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Posted:10/2/2003 23:06 |
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keep hoss rebuild the carb. if a cap is missing on your axle shaft then just replace it or have us replace it or bring it in to have it replaced its like a $10 part you can get a new carb anywhere from 250 on up, you can get a remanufactured carb for about 150 or a rebuil kit for about 40 or just a new power valve for about 25. why do you say your axles are inadequate have you blown them? what axles do you have? your not rock cr4amling you dont need 21/2 ton rockwells under that rig. if you go to another truck you will have to start over from scratch and you never know what kind of problems youll find
nucking futs
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Rob Fetters
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• Magnolia, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 10/1/2001 |
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• 289 posts |
• 2
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Posted:10/3/2003 00:14 |
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Like Kris said STOP TAKING IT TO PLACES TO GET FIXED!!!!!!! Thats why we are here and have WOT weekends......... If anything trade in the ranger and get a F250 or F350 dually and a big trailer to hual Hoss on runs. Plus we can throw the 86 on too. Hehehehehe. I know how you feel I have spent a lot of time and money on the Bronco and it has only gotten smaller since I got it. Well Im just under $500 short of having everything I need to get the 38s under it and having it the way I always dreamed of. So dont give up on it. In fact I think Josh said something about Scott having some bad ass axles for sale if that where you want to start. Now if you take Hoss somewhere to get that axle u-joint changed I will slap you with the axle until you get some sense knocked into you. So let us know when and where you want to start so we can help out. Just cause you got the biggest truck doesnt mean we will not help ya out. Hell if you really want to spend money paying someone to do it Come over here I'll do it for a good price.  |
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JD Foster
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• Lacombe, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 8/20/2003 |
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• 15 posts |
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Posted:10/3/2003 00:19 |
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I agree with schmuk, fix it. with help from this list you can do it or get it done a lot cheaper. I've been thru a lot of repairs before we had the encouragement of lists and the hardest thing was tackling a project not having a clue of what to do.
I saw your rig at the BR meet and greet, it's a monster. it's gonna cost to drive it regularly.
as far as the axles,,as long as you're still in the mud or dirt they should hold up, it depends on the abuse  but if you wanna swap them out, I can help ya out. JD
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LOCKED UP
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 9/29/2001 |
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• 1,256 posts |
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Posted:10/3/2003 02:46 |
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Keep it. You have a nice classic body there that appears to be in good shape.
The 44 and 9" would be plenty for 37s. I know you think it's hard to put smaller tires on there, but honestly having tires that big is only going to be fun in a mud bog. Having "smaller" tires will make it possible to actually drive the thing to and from events as well. Take a look at Hans Bronco when it had the 36s on there. It still looks awesome, and he was/is able to drive it places....
I really have to make a big vote for ditching the monster tires... how many trucks do you see driving around like that? None, because those giant tires are going to tear parts up and give you turd mileage. There is a reason all the guys with the "monsters" at the spillway trailer them in.
U-joint can be fixed/swaped for cheap ... same for the carb, but if you keep bringing it places it's going to add up really fast.
MY WEBSITE / DELTA 4X4 CLUB
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Mark Forsyth
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 8/4/2003 |
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• 18 posts |
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Posted:10/3/2003 09:00 |
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Patrick is giving you the best advice of all. I bet 90% of your problems are those huge tires.
What you have is about $300 worth of problems that are easy to fix if you get your hands a little dirty. You can upgrade the 9 to like 40 spline so it can handle almost anything you throw at it. ANd if you think engine work is expensive try and find a cheap 60 up front. For the version you will need (kingpin) to run 44's your going to be droping some SERIOUS coin.
And on the f-350 on 44's you better never get stuck because its going to take something on tracks to get that monster out, and you will only be able to have fun in places like the spillway.
Take Patricks advice and move down to 37's and enjoy your investment. |
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John Robert Miller
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 12/21/2002 |
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• 596 posts |
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Posted:10/3/2003 13:16 |
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Thanx for the feedback, I really do appreciate it.
Could ya'll help in figuring some stuff out for me? If I drop down in size, say 38.5 or 39.5, what would I need to do? I assume I wouldn't need the body lift, is that hard to remove? U joint problem is still there, so that would have to be addressed too. Is this a size my axles could still handle? I would probably want the 18/39.5-15LT Boggers, but I have no idea how these are on road. I'm sure ya'll can recommend something else. How would I be with my gearing? I currently have 5.13's, if I'm guessing right, I'd lose top speed a good bit, but gain low end grunt ( ). Is this correct? Would I be able to keep them?
If i upgraded drivetrain, what would I be looking at? New axles and driveshafts? Anything else major?
I'm basically trying to figure out the cost benefit of each. In regards to dropping tire size; I know the bigger tire has more rolling mass. Is this due to the weight of the tire, or the bigger diameter spinning farther away from the hub (more inertia?) in conjunction with the tire weight?
I'm sure I'll come up with more questions, and if ya'll can think of any please address them. I do plan on taking ya'll up on a WOT, not sure when though. I need to figure more things out with everything.
One more question, is it ok to drive it with that U-joint "cap" missing?
EDIT-I called Interco and got some weight specs. The Boggers I was thinking about are only seven pounds lighter (114#) than my current tires (121#). Could I still run them? The 16/38.5-15LT TSL's weight about 89 pounds, didn't ask about the radials-would they give me more life? I can call and get more specs as ya'll recommend sizes. |
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schmuck
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• nola, XX, USA |
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• Registered on 5/21/2003 |
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• 1,187 posts |
• 1
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Posted:10/3/2003 15:37 |
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radials will give you more life but cost more. 5.13s to run 37-39inch tires will be fine but you will be screaming at fast highway speeds, if you have a part time case then its fine to run with the cap off in 2wd as far as your rolling mass question the mass is the weight but a smaller tire will weigh less plus change your overall drive ratio since the tire has a smaller diamiter even though your staying the same width and decressing height you are still shrinking your footprint which will help with rolling resistance
nucking futs
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John Robert Miller
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 12/21/2002 |
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• 596 posts |
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Posted:10/3/2003 16:06 |
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So would I be able to pull off those Boggers? Would it be easier/cheaper to add a new transmission or overdrive verses regearing? |
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schmuck
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• nola, XX, USA |
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• Registered on 5/21/2003 |
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• 1,187 posts |
• 1
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Posted:10/3/2003 16:32 |
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what trans do you have now?
nucking futs
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