2 Big Broncos Forums
Herbert Vining Jr
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• Patterson, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 11/19/2002 |
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• 296 posts |
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 Posted:3/4/2004 00:54 |
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Today is the day I've been waiting on for a long time.  Now that I'm 21 it's time to put the plans in action. Monday I'm getting another DOT physical cause mine expired in feb, as well as my hazmat endorsement, which means I can start truck driving OTR and blow every penny I get my hands on into the beast. Here's the plans -
1. Remaned 400 with flat top pistons, bigger cam, better intake, four barrel, and a new coil (maybe a new distributor too)
2. Solid 44 up front and 4" lift
3. 35's and 4.10-4.11 gears w/ arb in the rear and eventually up front
4. alloy shafts front and rear and ctm joints
5. Custom front bumper and warn M12000 winch
6. Dual batterie's and bigger alternator
course there's lots of other stuff but that's the main stuff I plan to accomplish this year, and since I have hardly any bills to pay they're very realistic goals, I'm planning on having the first three done by the end of summer, however the first two will probobly be done by end of june, middle of july, and it'll be time to bring the beast to red creek 
Questions comments and advice welcome as alot of you know more about this stuff than I do
1980 Bronco (Big Bertha / The Beast) 351M/C6/NP208/D44/9"/33's
My Bronco Site |
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Bowtie Blazer
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 5/27/2003 |
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• 1,220 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 01:04 |
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Arb might be nice in the front but screw the rear, get a regular locker for back there, ARB has its places and in my opinion that kind of jack doesn't belong in the rear axle. The rest sounds good, I don't think they are too unrealistic
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Donzi
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• New Orleans, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 6/7/2003 |
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• 259 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 05:50 |
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That sounds like a good plan. If you are ever planning on running 38 or bigger, you might as well go 1 ton axles. For the cost of alloy shafts and ctm's you could have a set of i ton axles already geared to your preference. Also, definitely skip the arb in the rear, a detroit or lincoln locker would work fine in the rear. If you lincoln lock the front or even with a detroit you might have problems turning in 4wd but a simple homemade hydroassist can fix that   |
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LOCKED UP
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 9/29/2001 |
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• 1,256 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 07:14 |
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I think you might need more than 4" lift to accomadate a solid front. I remember looking around at soil conversions for my 90 and the smallest lift anyone had was about 6" ...
MY WEBSITE / DELTA 4X4 CLUB
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Herbert Vining Jr
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• Patterson, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 11/19/2002 |
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• 296 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 11:25 |
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doing a little research I found that it'd cost $952.70 to fit up a solid 44 with alloy inner and outer shafts, and ctm joints, plus the cost of a locker would put it up there around the price of a D60, however I don't plan on going any bigger than a 38, and it'll be quite awhile before I go 38 anyways, and the reason for wanting an arb in the rear is because I have a lead foot at times around corners so it'd be nice to be able to have the option of turning that locker off when I don't need it. Might do like Donzi said and put a detroit up front and hydro assist, is lincoln better? never heard of lincoln before..Also wanting to convert my 9" to 35 spline so I can run the Moser Engineering 35 spline alloy set ($435.00 from JBG) all I'd have to do to run 35 spline shafts is put in a 35 spline locker right? and you're right pat, you do need a six inch lift for the conversion and I believe it's because of crossmember clearance or lack thereof...so I'll just go 6"
1980 Bronco (Big Bertha / The Beast) 351M/C6/NP208/D44/9"/33's
My Bronco Site |
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Donzi
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• New Orleans, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 6/7/2003 |
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• 259 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 12:12 |
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I use lincoln lockers front and rear Lincoln = welded
That is ALOT of coin to spend on weak axles. You can spend all you want on alloy shaft and CTM's but it won't make your ring gear any stronger. That is the main reason you need 1 ton axles, so that you won't have any weak links. I would use the money to invest in axles that will last you a lifetime. ONce you get the itch to get on it, those d44's won't last long. You can find a set of 1 ton axles for about 1200.00 already geared the way you want. Really easy to put disc's on a 14 bolt too. Also, it is nice to have a full-floating rear axle!! I definitely drive differently offroad now that I have the security of the 14 bolt!! No matter what you decide, don't read 4wd magazines anymore!!! The will brainwash you into thinking you need Alloy shafts and CTM'S and an ARB for 1000.00 instead of a 14 bolt lincoln locked for 160.00 (that is what mine cost!!!) Do some surfing on pirate4x4.com and post up with any questions here before you drop your hard earned money, chances are that somebody here has accomplished the same objective without spending that much money. Plus its cheaper to get us to help (12 pack ) than to pay a mechanic!!!
Good Luck!! I didn't mean to tell you what to do, just sharing some of my "learned the hard way" knowledge... |
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Bowtie Blazer
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 5/27/2003 |
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• 1,220 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 12:35 |
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oh yeah...
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! Can have a few of these now
you'll learn the skinny pedal and big shoes don't mix well soon anyway so i wouldn't worry about a selectable rear locker....
and as much as jeff and others love lincoln lockers, having studied stress tests in school and knowing the stresses put on axle shafts I will never lincoln lock an axle.....full floaters can get away easiest being lincoln locked being that they have way less stress and way bigger components made to handle major stress on them to begin with, so his 14 lincoln locked is way safer than his d44 rear was, the front has been alright but when negotiating tight turns it's in trouble, spools do very similar to lincoln locking something, they eliminate any slack given to one wheel spinning faster (having a larger or smaller radius) than another, i.e.= making a turn
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Donzi
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• New Orleans, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 6/7/2003 |
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• 259 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 13:27 |
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Another point to add to Josh's statement is that when you break a ujoint under load in the front it will probably take the stub shaft ears with it. So, CTM's "MIGHT" be worth it in the front but I'm not sure about alloy shafts, maybe if they could hold up better to getting mashed if a ujoint went out. Basically, as said before, if you like the skinny pedal your gonna break something sooner or later. Not a big deal as long as you can replace it for cheap, so plan your weak links accordingly, like keeping the ujoints at your tcase stock or mildly upgraded and use stronger ujoints at you diffs and stub shafts. Everybody has their own opinions based on personal experience, I have never had any trouble with the welded d44 rear but if I ever did blow it up I would've just swapped in a 14ff so I had nothing to lose!! Hope this info helps you decide... 
Oh yeah..... Happy Birthday |
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Bowtie Blazer
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• Baton Rouge, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 5/27/2003 |
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• 1,220 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 14:36 |
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| Quote: | | Everybody has their own opinions based on personal experience, I have never had any trouble with the welded d44 rear but if I ever did blow it up I would've just swapped in a 14ff so I had nothing to lose!! |
Except if the 44 would have blown up making a turn on a road, which is when its sees the most stress (on road) hence why lincoln lockers are usually used in trail only vehicles not saying it will happen but all it takes is a shaft breaking, the shaft sliding out with rim and tire still attached and as dixie bronco what thats like (he even did it with a 9" which isn't supposed to, and his wasn't lincoln locked.....sometimes you don't get a second chance. Did I mention a FF gives you that extra peice of mind. Again, not every axle is gonna explode, as jeff has shown, not every ten bolt will die under 35's as Kris has shown its just the possibility (look at fords goign down the road seems like one in every ten has that dented rear fender where the axle slid out with tire attached  ). A million rear wheel drive cars on the road with axles that get over loaded and abused and never have a problem, just that lincoln locking increases that stress and the potential chance.
Detroits and other lockers have a sort of slip system that accounts for small tire speed differences whether its clutchs, springs or other devices so they aren't always barking and stressing on the road. I think you get the point, lincoln locked vehicles without some sort of axle shaft retension system can be down right scary. 
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Herbert Vining Jr
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• Patterson, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 11/19/2002 |
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• 296 posts |
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Posted:3/4/2004 17:36 |
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thanks for the happy bdays fellas, and if you guys say I can do 1ton gear for cheaper then I'll do it...it'd give me and excuse to go up to 44's someday trying to go cheap but still be strong, and I'd never lincoln lock the beast cause I love having that tight turning radius but would do a detroit front and rear, right now I'm still basically planning and am very open to everyone's opinion that's why I posted plus you guys have way more experience than I do, as far as the front goes gonna have to find a D60 and I wanna put radius arms on it and know it can be done with the right parts and some skill, who thinks they could fab it up? also wanna put heim joints on the ends. I'd prefer to stay with ford parts...but what's stronger for the rear? D60 or 14 bolt? I saw a massive axle at the junkyard a couple days ago, all it said on it was 82 Chevy, it had to be a 14 bolt, that B**ch was huge, still gonna be a couple months before I have the $$$ to drop on this but when I do I'll let you guys know and we'll work out a game plan and start searching for parts, beer will definitly be provided and yeah josh it's time to toss back a couple..legally anyway 
1980 Bronco (Big Bertha / The Beast) 351M/C6/NP208/D44/9"/33's
My Bronco Site |
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