97 10.25 Sterling rear axle, out of an f350. Has since been rebuilt with Yukon 4.88 gears (long pinion/late model), Detroit full locker, and a yukon master install kit. Got drums turned, new cylinders, brake shoes, seals, and synthetic fluid, all to the melodic tune of 656$ with labor. 330$ labor.

axle in

Not the greatest shackle angle..may correct that soon

This is with a 2" belltech lowering shackle

bracket-be gone

Had to clearence the body a bit with a torch to get access at the top bolts, and torched off the heads on the bottom rivets

How much room you have available to move your axle forward without moving the bracket vertically up the frame

Bracket tacked in place, comparison to stock holes

bottom hole is 3" back, and a smidgen lower on the frame (this is to negate the lift lost by moving shackle farther back)

Top hole about 2.5" from old hole, and a tad lower

Bracket in relation to stock crossmember rivet, and bottom of frame

From frame to bottom of the bracket, is 1 7/8th"

can barely get a socket on there, but will be enough to tighten it down, although that could easily be solved by torching or grinding the rivet off, then replacing with a bolt, that could be removed when needing access to the spring hanger bolt

shackle angle without any weight on it

axle with weight on it, moved 3" back

Shackle angle with weight on it (not TOO bad, but still a lil verticle for my taste, the rear shackle may get moved forward a bit later, but not at this time)

pinion angle still pretty good ;)

better pinion angle shot

stock axle marking (center of hub), to current marking on right (center of hub), 3"

47" to the top of my fenders

Tire in relation to hight of vehicle/fender cutting

with Approx. 7" of lift