FordExcursions.com Forums
dnp
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• Jackson, MS, USA |
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• Registered on 1/20/2003 |
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• 37 posts |
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 Posted:8/12/2003 09:32 |
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OK, after inspecting, tightening, pulling, pushing, etc. on everything under the front end of my 2000 V-10 4x4 Limited, I still have that D$%# popping noise! It's driving me crazy!
I was told it was likely the body mount under the driver's floor (which is where the popping sound seems to be centered). I had a guy, who used to work at a local Ford dealership and who said he was familiar with the problem, remove the bolt and do some slight grinding on the body. After all was reassembled, I'm not sure it's not worse!
My questions are: (1) How can I access earlier threads about this problem, as I can't seem to find them?, and - more importantly - (2) Does anyone know what actually causes this problem (e.g., what process actually has to occur to cure this annoying issue?)......I don't know how bad it's been for those of you who have experienced it, but with the slightest amount of body roll, it sounds just like someone is hitting the driver's floor pan with a hammer! Not to mention going over a "washboard" road where it makes that same noise in succession!
PLEASE help me if you can!
Thanks,
dnp |
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Hitch
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• Traverse City, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/20/2002 |
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• 22 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:8/12/2003 10:16 |
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dnp,
I did some research on this a while back and came up with some info:
at thedieselstop.com, in the Excursion forum, a post titled "LOUD Clunk/Bang", from 6/10/02 discusses this topic.
Also, try flatratetech.com, I found 3 threads there on this issue: "Excursion clunk over bumps", "Excursion cab mounts" and "More Excursion Issues".
It was 6 or 7 months ago when I found this info, so I can't guarantee it is still there.
Hitch
2002 Limited Ultimate PSD X, DVD w/3 monitors, Donahoe Racing 4.5" lift, 315 MT/R's, 16x10 Weld Velociti's, Husky Liners front to back, PSD Badges, Hellwig, SCMT, AFE Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust, Autometer gauges in under cubby pod.
http://community.webshots.com/user/hitch42 |
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Pharmer
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• Mackinaw City, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 12/19/2002 |
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• 52 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:8/13/2003 14:59 |
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dnp,
Here's my theory. I've had this problem with our 2K Ex. The guy who pulled the bolt for you thinks the neck of the bolt is hitting the floor pan over bumps, which may be the case. I've been told over time or if you overthighten the bolt, the bolt will stretch out. Further tightening will strip the threads in the lower insulator which the bolt threads into. When this happens the insulator under the vehicle moves and creates the clunk.
My suggestion is to replace the bolt and lower insulator. Ford went to great extent on mine and replaced the body puck and all the hardware under the drivers and passenger floor. This requires removing the front bumper and the forward body mounts first. On some crew cab superdutys this is a fix for the popping sound. I have replaced the drivers side bolt and insulator on mine after the Ford fix which lasted about 15k miles. Now with 20K more miles the clunk is coming back. It will cost you about $40 and take 10 minutes to fix.
Pull the drivers side kick panel then pull back the carpet from under the brake pedal. You will see a rubber plug. Carefully pull the plug out and you will see the bolt. I think it is 15/16 ths. Remove bolt and pull rubber insulator from under vehicle. Replace with new parts. Don't know exact torque specs, but don't overtighten.
Kevin |
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Phil Eaton
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• Lander, WY, USA |
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• Registered on 4/28/2003 |
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• 42 posts |
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 Posted:8/13/2003 22:05 |
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I bet you will be shocked if this works as I certainly was with my x. Tighten the end link bolts on the sway bar to about a 150 ft/lbs(upper and lower). If you don't have a rear sway bar, I highly recommend you install one if you have much cab shake over washboard. The sway bars actually quell much of the vibration the truck picks up from small impacts. I have done several mods to my x and the reduction of shudder, vibration and noise the sway bars have on this truck is frankly not logical to me. But the sway bars (especially with urethene bushings) dramatically improve this vehicle's ride and handeling as well. |
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Pharmer
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• Mackinaw City, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 12/19/2002 |
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• 52 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:8/14/2003 11:34 |
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I agree with Phil about checking the sway bar links and mounting points on the axle first. Ford had a special service message in 2000 about the top bolt thru the frame on the drivers side link. If you see bare metal on the frame around the nut it means the link is loose. It sounds like dnp checked everything out.
Kevin |
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