FordExcursions.com Forums
Dave Sullivan
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• Kitchener, XX, Canada |
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• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
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• 199 posts |
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 Posted:11/21/2003 11:57 |
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OK folks.
82000 Km/ 51250MIles before the first set of front pads and rotors.. anyone do any Better?
No disk turning either... I never do it.  Damnably expensive though.. 500 and change just for the front rotors and pads. And the rear is worse. You would think that brake parts would be cheap to ensure that no one pushes their brakes to the limit... like I had too.
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Dave.
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Godfather
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• Sea Cliff, Long Island, NY, USA |
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• Registered on 4/13/2003 |
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• 53 posts |
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 Posted:11/21/2003 14:21 |
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DAVE- 89,994 as of today 21 November- All 4 tires are original- one is gettin' scary, the braking system has never been touched or checked and yeah, there is some pulsing.
My plan is to run it to 100K and inspect the rotors and pads. I fit's just pads, I'll cut the front rotors and do pads only. If rotors are shot (I agree- I only cut em' if they pulse badly) I'll do a complete cryo'd ART setup.
Does anyone know if Brembo makes pads and rotors for our Xs?? I looked and didn't see any. Brembo is premium stuff (my sister's Audi RS6 has them all around, as well as my Moto Guzzi Sport 1100 ) and I'd prefer drilled to slotted rotors.
Is EVERYONE happy with the ART setup ???
Ciao, Godafther
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Frankenstien
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• Buckley, WA, USA |
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• Registered on 11/9/2003 |
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• 16 posts |
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Posted:12/4/2003 22:39 |
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101100 +- alittle, still got over 40 % |
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• 0 posts |
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Posted:12/5/2003 10:56 |
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I got to 60k and my pads were trash. lower caliper pins were sticking after steep mountain grades. Im running ceramix pads now with good 3m high heat lube on the slides.
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Charles Jackson
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• Raleigh, NC, USA |
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• Registered on 12/23/2003 |
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• 71 posts |
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Posted:12/23/2003 13:51 |
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Just bought my '01 X PSD and it has just over 40K and I think I hear my left front chimer singing a little on initial braking.
Dealer that I bought it from promised new pads but I was shocked to read in this thread how much they are!
I hope I can hold him to his word!
Any advise?
Thx.
'01 X Limited w/PSD - STOCK all the way..and plan to stay that way. Pockets turned inside out with 4 kids! |
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bryant loke
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• bakersfield, CA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/4/2004 |
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• 62 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:1/4/2004 21:41 |
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hey guys...
yep I feel ur pain. But my 02 is still under warrenty...yeeha! ok, so heres the the deal...Why would ford put brakes that lightweight on such a heavy vehicle? I'm not hard on my brakes at all. I tow trailers, but I have brake systems on my trailers, and they work better than my truck brakes! hence the reason why my truck is going in first thing on monday!
have fun!
DX |
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Raymond Golson
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• Piscataway, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 8/19/2002 |
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• 68 posts |
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Posted:1/5/2004 08:16 |
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I had the fronts and rears cuts on the '00 and new pads installed, 40,000 miles w/o a peep and they stopped damn good, got all work done at Pep Boys, new pads (Pep Boys brand) also gave off a lot less brake dust 
2000 Excursion Ltd 4x4, Air Raid, Good Year 305x70x16 on stock rim, Reflex shocks, ACCER DVD system, JVC audio system, stainless steel bug shield - TRADED! Black 2003 Excursion Ltd 4x4, loaded! SWAPPED! White 2003 Excursion Eddie Bauer, loaded also! Will stay stock for the winter months ahead! |
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Don Murray
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• Bridgewater, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2004 |
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• 128 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:1/6/2004 08:27 |
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Hey Gents,
Hello Mr Golson, Bridgewater is my game...
I got a whopping 17K out of my rotors before warping. Doesn't help having and 8000 boat loose it's brakes and the X trying to stop it doing 70mph.
Anyway, anytime you tow you loose a great deal of brake longevity in upwards of 50% greater (less than) when towing 5000lbs or above. The trailer breaks do help in stopping but there is still a strain on the X's breaks 5 fold.
I decided to put on a set of cross drilled and slotted rotors by PowerStop. And a set of Kevlar pads. My stopping power greatly increased and no warpage in 12000 miles and I tow 10klb bobcats with no trailer brakes.
http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/fordbrakes.htm
By the way, You guy's are complaining of repair costs, it's not brain surgery to install brakes and you can save a bundle of cash. Just think (well I do this way) the money I would save on the job, I either by another Mod or by tools that are needed for this or other Mods.
Don
aKa The TRACTOR
Smokem' if you can!!!! |
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Raymond Golson
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• Piscataway, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 8/19/2002 |
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• 68 posts |
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Posted:1/6/2004 08:48 |
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Hey Bridgewater,
I looked at those brakes you have, still think they are the way for me to go and will do it when I am through with my factory set. I don't tow anything so my brakes last pretty long.... You are right up the road from me, we shoudl meet on Rt22 at one of the watering holes  and tell tale tales about the mighty Excursions
Also interested in seeing what you have done to your '03, may be the boost I need to get started on mine so that I can have the awesome numers that you currently have 
Say when
2000 Excursion Ltd 4x4, Air Raid, Good Year 305x70x16 on stock rim, Reflex shocks, ACCER DVD system, JVC audio system, stainless steel bug shield - TRADED! Black 2003 Excursion Ltd 4x4, loaded! SWAPPED! White 2003 Excursion Eddie Bauer, loaded also! Will stay stock for the winter months ahead! |
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Don Murray
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• Bridgewater, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2004 |
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• 128 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:1/6/2004 08:57 |
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Ray sounds great, the watering hole that is.
I just did a write up on a couple of Mods I have done under the thread need new toys:
Here it is:
Okay, Mod are dependant on what you ultimately want to do? My Excursion pampered as much as she is, has been through a slue of mods. This has all been done in stride and over time and all by myself considering cost.
I'm going to give a lot here and don't take this all to heart. This is what I have done to modify my truck with months of investigation and reading and talking.
1. Larger exhaust is a must to keep the EGT's (exhaust gas temps) down. EGT's are the killer of turbo's and over 1200 degrees will fry the impellers. 4" from turbo down pipe to the tail is best and this will keep the temp between 600-900 degrees post turbo under full load. The old fabled tale the larger the pipe the less back pressure and velocity causing slow spool of the turbo. This is not true in the diesel world. Heck if I could fit a 6" pipe on my turbo I would. This gained me 22hp and an extra 2mpg. This will run $395-$600+ depending on Aluminum or Stainless
Note 1: Food for thought ask if you can omit the muffler and go the extra mile and get a new muffle developed called the AERO TURBINE. It is awesome...
Note 2: Before #2 option is used you MUST use a larger exhaust....
2. A chip is a low cost very easy mod that can be done in a couple of hours. I tried 2 different way's. First was with the "flip" chip that increased power on the fly when you need it. The concern I had was they the "chip" altered the engine timing and injectors. The injector oil pressures where increased causing my injectors to way loud and could prematurely fail the injectors, so I returned the unit. I ended up going with the Big Hoss chip from Banks rated for the 120hp 250 ft lbs torque increase. This chip comes on strong and hard when needed. You will notice the power under your pedal instantly, its a rush.
3. I upgraded the compressor fan in the turbo. This is the least expensive option for the money for what it fixes. @ 1800-2200 RPM under moderate boost most drivers feel a "flutter" or lag from the turbo. The Compressor fan OE is one height; the new wheel is variable height and allows the compressor to grab more air at different levels. ATS offers a housing that increases the intake volume and states it solves the flutter but costs $300+ where the wheel replacement is under $90.
I have plenty more, if your interested let me know.
aKa The TRACTOR
Smokem' if you can!!!! |
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