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'80-86 Bronco Dimensions
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Compiled from the '85 Body Builders' Layout Book

https://fordbbas.com/publications

See also:
.

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'94 Bronco Dimensions
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Compiled from the '94 Body Builders' Layout Book

See also:
.

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Fullsize Line Drawings
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Lower R is F150 2WD

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'92-96 Bronco Line Drawing (CHMSL)
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'80-86 Bronco Line Drawing
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'92-96 Bronco Emblems
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'80-96 Bronco Repair Locations Grid & Coding
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

More examples:

The transmission MLPS is at C5/FU.
The rear diff cover is at CD8/FU.
The air filter on EFI trucks is at A3/BU.
The passenger window motor is at F5/FO.
The '92-96 wiper control module is at E5/BU.
The dome light is at CD6/RU.
The dome light harness connector is at A7/FO.
The 4.9L coolant temperature sender (for the gauge) is at D4/BU.
The overhead temperature sender (for the '94-96 overhead console) is at B1/FO.
The CHMSL is at CD9/RO.



For early Bronco, see:

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'87-91 F-series standard cab long bed
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F150/F250/F350 Standard Cab Fleetside 2WD/4WD Dimensional Data from the 1994 Body Builders' Layout Book
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See also:

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1985 Snow Plow Equipment Recommendations
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How to make recovering any stuck object (a vehicle, a tree, a boulder...) easier.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This works the same if you swap the vehicle & anchor, for self-recovery.

Any flexible tension member (rope, chain, cable, strap...) applies force along its own axis. Pulling an anchor THROUGH the ground (as in the first diagram) is much more difficult than pulling it OUT of the ground (as in the 2nd). So simply bending the recovery line upward near the stuck object will substantially reduce the towing force needed to extract it.

Conversely: if you need an anchor point for self-recovery, the deeper it is in the ground, and the lower the recovery line runs to it, the better an anchor it will be (as the base of a tree or boulder).



It's worth noting that the supporting structure should not be higher than the connection point on the towing vehicle, especially if the recovery line is short because this principle works at BOTH ends of the recovery line. If the line runs upward from the recovery vehicle, the line's force will reduce that vehicle's traction.

For more detail, go to p.160 of FM 21-305. For even more, read FM 20-22. If those links are dead, Google the FMs.

A heated discussion about strap vs. chain, and recovery points:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/78678-straps-vs-chain-6.html

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1992 Light Truck Owner Maintenance Checks for Gasoline Engine Equipped Vehicles with Light Duty Emissions (Under 8500 Pounds GVWR) F150, F250, E150, E250, Club Wagon, & Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'96 Bronco Maintenance Guide
'96 Bronco Owner's Manual
http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandse...owner-manuals/
https://ownersmanuals2.com/
Ford service disk images (free) '92-07

Enter your VIN at FordParts.com to look up the most-recent Ford (and some MotorCraft) part numbers, but pay close attention to the notes because that site does NOT sort for engine or other options; it shows parts for all available engines. Then search those PNs on Amazon, eBay, RockAuto, etc. for the best price before calling the dealership to get their price. Finally, check your local junkyards for good used original parts. They're often better than new parts (aftermarket OR MotorCraft).

Smallblock Oil Filter Motorcraft FL-1A (w/factory oil cooler Motorcraft FL820S)

See also:
. . . . .
__________________________________________________
January 2017
To: All Ford and Lincoln Dealers, Service Managers and Parts Managers

Subject: Ford Motor Company Position on Scheduled Maintenance Business

A world-class customer service experience is fundamental to the success of Ford and Lincoln
Dealerships and Ford Motor Company. As we jointly pursue a leadership position in customer
retention, a primary goal at FCSD is to provide your team with the products and services
necessary to continuously enhance the customer service experience that you deliver.
Dealerships that consistently deliver prompt, competitive, high-value service will be one step
closer to enjoying the benefits of lifetime customers.

Top performing dealerships attain a profitable fixed operations business by offering a quality
customer service experience using Ford scheduled maintenance procedures. Ford Motor
Company does not support the sale of unnecessary services, including dealership repair services that significantly deviate from our recommended maintenance guide, service intervals or shop manual procedures.

MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
Promoting maintenance intervals that significantly deviate from those published in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide are unnecessary and may damage credibility and result in lost customers.
%uF0B7 Ford Motor Company recommends specific maintenance intervals for various parts and
component systems based on extensive engineering and testing.
%uF0B7 Ford relies on this testing to determine the most appropriate mileage for replacement of oils
and fluids needed to protect the vehicle at the lowest overall cost of ownership to the
customer.
%uF0B7 Reducing maintenance intervals does not improve vehicle durability.

AFTERMARKET OIL & FILTERS
Improvements in engine and lubricant technology have led to increased recommended oil change intervals. Dealerships should use Motorcraft® Oil & Oil Filters, which are approved by Ford Engineering to ensure optimal performance:
%uF0B7 Motorcraft Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil is manufactured with high viscosity synthetic
base oils and specifically designed performance additives to ensure optimal performance
over the entire oil change interval.
%uF0B7 Motorcraft Oil Filters use superior seals, pressure relief valves, anti-drain back valves,
polyester and cellulose media with the capacity to handle today%u2019s extended drain intervals.
%uF0B7 Aftermarket oil and oil filters are not recommended by Ford Motor Company.

Ford & Lincoln customers purchasing %u201CThe WORKS%u201D package expect to receive Motorcraft Oil & Oil Filters. Those dealerships not using Motorcraft Oil & Oil Filters are not eligible to participate in %u201CThe WORKS%u201D nationally advertised offers and consumer rebates.

CHEMICALS AND ADDITITVES
Ford Motor Company recommends against the use of all chemicals, treatments or additive
products not identified in the owner guide or unless specifically recommended in publications
such as Technical Service Bulletins. Only approved chemicals, when used as instructed, are
compatible with a vehicle's components and systems.

SYSTEM FLUSHES
The following should be understood related to the topic of engine, transmission, steering, brakes and fuel system fluid flushing services:

%uF0B7 Demonstrating to a customer that specific fluids should be changed because of a change in
their color is a misleading practice. Darkening of many fluids is normal in most cases.
%uF0B7 If flushing is required in conjunction with a transmission component repair, the dealership
should flush the transmission with only the recommended transmission fluid. Use of chemical
transmission flushes can damage the vehicle's transmission.
%uF0B7 Utilizing fluid exchange equipment is acceptable as long as Ford approved fluids are used.
%uF0B7 Fuel injection system flushing is not considered scheduled maintenance by Ford Motor
Company. Should the fuel injection system require cleaning to resolve a specific condition,
chemicals meeting Ford requirements are recommended, such as Motorcraft Premium Fuel
Injector Cleaner, Motorcraft Pressurized Injector Cleaner or Motorcraft Power Flush Injector
Fluid.
%uF0B7 Engine oil system flushing is not a Ford Motor Company approved maintenance procedure
and is considered an unnecessary expense to your customers. Use of chemical/crankcase
flushes can damage the vehicle's engine.

To assist you in growing your needed customer-paid sales, Ford has established very competitive pricing on key maintenance and wear parts; including brakes, batteries, tires, filters, as well as many other products. Additionally, we have worked collaboratively with Dealer Council, PSMAC and the Dealer Advertising Associations to deploy and continually enhance significant Tier I, II and III service marketing initiatives.

Customer satisfaction, loyalty and retention are more important than ever in today's business
environment. Selling high-quality Ford and Motorcraft products builds customer loyalty to your
dealership and reinforces the brand promise implied by your Ford or Lincoln franchise. The entire Ford Team stands ready to help you achieve your consumer experience and dealership profit goals!

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1992 Gasoline Light Truck Maintenance Schedule (essentially the same as all '88-96 F150s & Broncos, and some others)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'96 Bronco Maintenance Guide
'96 Bronco Owner's Manual
FleetFord Owner Manuals
https://ownersmanuals2.com/
Ford service disk images (free) '92-07

Enter your VIN at FordParts.com to look up the most-recent Ford (and some MotorCraft) part numbers, but pay close attention to the notes because that site does NOT sort for engine or other options; it shows parts for all available engines. Then search those PNs on Amazon, eBay, RockAuto, etc. for the best price before calling the dealership to get their price. Finally, check your local junkyards for good used original parts. They're often better than new parts (aftermarket OR MotorCraft).

Smallblock Oil Filter Motorcraft FL-1A (w/factory oil cooler, use Motorcraft FL820S)

See also:
. . . .
The Great Synthetic Oil Fraud
==========================================
1996 Light Truck Normal Maintenance Schedule:

Severe Driving Conditions include one or more of the following:
1) Short trips of less than 10 miles (16km) when outside temperatures remain below freezing;
2) Towing a trailer; using a camper, roof-top carrier, or carrying maximum loads;
3) Operating in severe dust conditions
4) Operating during hot weather in stop-and-go "rush hour" traffic;
5) Extensive idling, such as police, taxi, or door-to-door delivery use;
6) Snow plowing
7) High speed operation with a fully-loaded vehicle (max. GVW);
Change engine oil & filter every 3 months or 3,000 miles (4800km) whichever occurs first.
(Click this for the Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule.)

Note: For items marked with number in parentheses, see footnotes at end of this schedule.
Note: Kilometer intervals are rounded off.
NOTE: This is the ORIGINAL version - many changes could have been made by Ford to the recommended maintenance intervals, service procedures, or parts over the years, so CHECK FOR REVISIONS (in TSBs and FSAs, among other sources) before proceeding.
Note: For more info, click the linked text.

5,000 Miles (8,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)

10,000 Miles (16,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.

15,000 Miles (24,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add 8-10 ounces of FW-15 to the engine coolant every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).

20,000 Miles (32,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).

25,000 Miles (40,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)

30,000 Miles (48,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add 8-10 ounces of FW-15 to the engine coolant every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
* Replace air cleaner filter every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 30 months. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule.
* Replace the air cleaner filter when the restriction gauge is in the red zone (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Replace crankcase emission air filter. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule (4.9L, 5.0L manual transmission, and 7.5L only).
* Change automatic transmission fluid (5).
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect and lubricate front wheel bearings.
* Inspect parking brake system for damage and operation.
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Lubricate throttle kickdown or TV lever ball studs.
* Lubricate front axle RH axle shaft slip-yoke (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate hub locks (4x4).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).

35,000 Miles (56,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)

40,000 Miles (64,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.

45,000 Miles (72,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add 8-10 ounces of FW-15 to the engine coolant every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).

50,000 Miles (80,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Change engine coolant initially at 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 48 months. Thereafter, Change engine coolant every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) 36 months (gasoline engines only).
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add four (4) pints of FW-15 each time engine coolant is changed.
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).

55,000 Miles (88,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)

60,000 Miles (96,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* Replace spark plugs (gasoline engines only).
* Replace air cleaner filter every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 30 months. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule.
* Replace the air cleaner filter when the restriction gauge is in the red zone (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Replace crankcase emission air filter. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule (4.9L, 5.0L manual transmission and 7.5L only).
* Replace PCV valve. (4)
* Check thermactor hoses and clamps (recommended but not required).
* Inspect accessory drive belt condition.
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Change automatic transmission fluid (5).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect and lubricate front wheel bearings.
* Inspect parking brake system for damage and operation.
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Lubricate throttle kickdown or TV lever ball studs.
* Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate hub locks (4x4).
* Change transfer case oil (4x4).
* Lubricate front axle RH axle shaft slip-yoke (4x4).
* Change manual transmission oil.
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).

65,000 Miles (104,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add 8-10 ounces of FW-15 to the engine coolant every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. Note: It is normal for a certain amount of moisture and staining to be present around the muffler seams. The presence of soot, light surface rust or moisture does not indicate a faulty muffler.
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).

70,000 Miles (112,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.

75,000 Miles (120,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).

80,000 Miles (128,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Change engine coolant every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or every 36 months (gasoline engines only).
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, four (4) pints of FW-15 each time engine coolant is changed.
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).

85,000 Miles (136,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.

90,000 Miles (144,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* Replace air cleaner filter every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 30 months. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule.
* Replace the air cleaner filter when the restriction gauge is in the red zone (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Replace crankcase emission air filter. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule (4.9L, 5.0L manual transmission and 7.5L only).
* Inspect accessory drive belt condition.
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Inspect parking brake system for damage and operation.
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect and lubricate front wheel bearings.
* Lubricate throttle kickdown or TV lever ball studs.
* Inspect and lubricate hub locks (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (4x4).
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Change automatic transmission fluid (5).
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).
* Lubricate front axle RH axle shaft slip-yoke (4x4).

95,000 Miles (152,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add 8-10 ounces of FW-15 to the engine coolant every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).

100,000 Miles (160,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* All rear axle lube.quantities must be replaced every 100,000 miles (160,000 km) or if the axle has been submerged in water. Otherwise, the lube should not be checked or changed unless a leak is suspected or repair required.
@ Measure A/C compressor clutch air gap in 3 positions. Adjust if necessary to 0.021-0.036" by removing shims.

105,000 Miles (168,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).
@ Measure A/C compressor clutch air gap in 3 positions. Adjust if necessary to 0.021-0.036" by removing shims.

110,000 Miles (176,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Change engine coolant every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or every 36 months (gasoline engines only).
* For 7.3L DI turbo diesel engines, add four (4) pints of FW-15 each time engine coolant is changed.
* Check and lubricate clutch release lever (7.5L and 7.3L DI turbo diesel).
@ Measure A/C compressor clutch air gap in 3 positions. Adjust if necessary to 0.021-0.036" by removing shims.

115,000 Miles (184,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Rotate tires and adjust air pressure. (1) (2)
* Lubricate steering linkage, suspension, driveshaft U-joint and slip-yoke (if equipped with grease fittings).
* Inspect exhaust system for leaks, damage or loose parts. Remove any foreign material trapped by exhaust system shielding. (3)
* Inspect and lubricate automatic transmission shift linkage.
* Check clutch reservoir fluid level.
@ Measure A/C compressor clutch air gap in 3 positions. Adjust if necessary to 0.021-0.036" by removing shims.

120,000 Miles (192,000 km)
* Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
* Replace spark plugs (gasoline engines only).
* Inspect accessory drive belt condition.
* Inspect engine cooling system, hoses, and clamps and check coolant strength every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months.
* Replace air cleaner filter every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 30 months. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule.
* Replace the air cleaner filter when the restriction gauge is in the red zone (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
* Replace crankcase emission air filter. If operating in dusty conditions, follow Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule (4.9L, 5.0L manual transmission and 7.5L only).
* Replace PCV valve. (4)
* Check thermactor hoses and clamps (recommended but not required).
* Inspect parking brake system for damage and operation.
* Inspect disc brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Lubricate caliper slide rails (F-Super Duty).
* Inspect drum brake systems, hoses and lines.
* Inspect and lubricate front wheel bearings.
* Lubricate throttle kickdown or TV lever ball studs.
* Inspect and lubricate hub locks (4x4).
* Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (4x4).
* Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins (4x4).
* Change automatic transmission fluid (5).
* Inspect parking brake fluid level (F-Super Duty).
* Check spring U-bolt torque (F-Super Duty).
* Replace manual transmission oil.
* Replace transfer case oil (4x4).
* Lubricate front axle RH axle shaft slip-yoke (4x4).
* Change fuel filter (recommended but not required for California certified vehicles).
* Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or when the filter restriction lamp is illuminated (7.3L DI turbo diesel only).
@ Measure A/C compressor clutch air gap in 3 positions. Adjust if necessary to 0.021-0.036" by removing shims.

(1) Wheel lug nuts must be retightened to proper torque specifications at 500 miles/800 km of new vehicle operation (100 miles/160 km and 500 miles/800 km for vehicles equipped with dual rear wheels or equipped for snowplowing). Also retighten to proper torque specification at 500 miles/800 km after (1) any wheel change or (2) any other time the Wheel lug nuts have been loosened.
(2) On dual rear wheel vehicles, rotate the front tires side to side without disturbing the rear tires.
(3) It is normal for a certain amount of moisture and staining to be present around the muffler seams. The presence of soot, light surface rust or moisture does not indicate a faulty muffler.
(4) At 60,000 miles (96,000 km) dealer will replace the PCV valve at no cost except on Canada and California vehicles.
(5) Except C6 and E4OD transmissions, which do not require regular fluid changes under normal operating conditions. Refer to the Severe-Duty Maintenance Schedule for regular maintenance intervals for all transmissions, including C6 and E4OD.

For F-Super Duty Rear Axles Only:
The lube change interval should be shortened to 4,800 km (3,000 miles) or 3 months, whichever occurs first, under the following conditions:
* Extended trailer tow operation above 21C (70°F) ambient.
* Wide open throttle for extended periods above 72 km/h (45 mph).
The 3,000 miles (4,800 km) change interval may be waived if the axle has been filled with Ford approved 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant meeting WSL-M2C192-A, Ford specification F1TZ-19580-B.
==========================================
Owner Maintenance Checks

Vehicle maintenance checks and inspections should be performed by the owner or qualified service technician at the indicated intervals. The Owner Guide contains supporting specifications and service information.
Any adverse conditions should be brought to the attention of the dealer or qualified service technician as soon as possible.
The owner maintenance checks are generally not covered by warranties.

When Stopping for Fuel
* Check the engine oil level.
* Check the windshield washer fluid level.
* Look for underinflated tires.

While Operating the Vehicle
* Note any changes in the sound of the exhaust or any smell of exhaust fumes in the vehicle.
* Check for vibration in the steering wheel. Notice any increased steering effort or looseness in the steering wheel, or change in its straight-ahead position.
* Notice if the vehicle constantly turns slightly or "pulls" to one side when traveling on smooth, level road.
* When braking, listen and check for strange sounds, pulling to one side, increased brake pedal travel or effort.
* If any slipping or changes in the operation of the transmission occur, check the .
* Check automatic transmission PARK function.
* Check [url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280848]parking brake
.
* Verify proper BRAKE bulb and ANTI-LOCK bulb check response when starting vehicle.

At Least Monthly
* Check coolant level in the coolant recovery reservoir.
* Check operation of lights, horn, turn signals, windshield wipers and washers, and hazard warning flasher.
* Check for fluid leaks by inspecting the surface beneath the vehicle for oil, coolant, or other fluid drips. Clean water draining from the air conditioning system is normal.

At Least Twice a Year
* Check power steering reservoir fluid level.
* Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
* Check radiator, heater and air-conditioning hoses for leaks or damage.
* Check for worn tires.
* Clean body and door drain holes.
* Flush complete underside of vehicle.
* Inspect underbody components for damage.
* Check parking brake system.
* Check headlamp alignment.
* Check seat and shoulder belt webbing, buckles and release mechanisms.
* Inspect seat back latches for proper operation.
* Check air pressure in spare tire.

At Least Once a Year
* Lubricate door hinges, checks, and hood hinges.
* Lubricate door, hood, and deck/liftgate/tailgate locks and latches.
* Lubricate door rubber weatherstrips.
* Clean battery and terminals and check electrolyte level on low maintenance (auxiliary and replacement) batteries.
__________________________________________________
January 2017
To: All Ford and Lincoln Dealers, Service Managers and Parts Managers

Subject: Ford Motor Company Position on Scheduled Maintenance Business

A world-class customer service experience is fundamental to the success of Ford and Lincoln
Dealerships and Ford Motor Company. As we jointly pursue a leadership position in customer
retention, a primary goal at FCSD is to provide your team with the products and services
necessary to continuously enhance the customer service experience that you deliver.
Dealerships that consistently deliver prompt, competitive, high-value service will be one step
closer to enjoying the benefits of lifetime customers.

Top performing dealerships attain a profitable fixed operations business by offering a quality
customer service experience using Ford scheduled maintenance procedures. Ford Motor
Company does not support the sale of unnecessary services, including dealership repair services that significantly deviate from our recommended maintenance guide, service intervals or shop manual procedures.

MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
Promoting maintenance intervals that significantly deviate from those published in the Scheduled Maintenance Guide are unnecessary and may damage credibility and result in lost customers.
- Ford Motor Company recommends specific maintenance intervals for various parts and
component systems based on extensive engineering and testing.
- Ford relies on this testing to determine the most appropriate mileage for replacement of oils
and fluids needed to protect the vehicle at the lowest overall cost of ownership to the
customer.
- Reducing maintenance intervals does not improve vehicle durability.

AFTERMARKET OIL & FILTERS
Improvements in engine and lubricant technology have led to increased recommended oil change intervals. Dealerships should use Motorcraft%uFFFD Oil & Oil Filters, which are approved by Ford Engineering to ensure optimal performance:
- Motorcraft Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil is manufactured with high viscosity synthetic
base oils and specifically designed performance additives to ensure optimal performance
over the entire oil change interval.
- Motorcraft Oil Filters use superior seals, pressure relief valves, anti-drain back valves,
polyester and cellulose media with the capacity to handle today's extended drain intervals.
- Aftermarket oil and oil filters are not recommended by Ford Motor Company.

Ford & Lincoln customers purchasing "The WORKS" package expect to receive Motorcraft Oil & Oil Filters. Those dealerships not using Motorcraft Oil & Oil Filters are not eligible to participate in "The WORKS" nationally advertised offers and consumer rebates.

CHEMICALS AND ADDITITVES
Ford Motor Company recommends against the use of all chemicals, treatments or additive
products not identified in the owner guide or unless specifically recommended in publications
such as Technical Service Bulletins. Only approved chemicals, when used as instructed, are
compatible with a vehicle's components and systems.

SYSTEM FLUSHES
The following should be understood related to the topic of engine, transmission, steering, brakes and fuel system fluid flushing services:

- Demonstrating to a customer that specific fluids should be changed because of a change in
their color is a misleading practice. Darkening of many fluids is normal in most cases.
- If flushing is required in conjunction with a transmission component repair, the dealership
should flush the transmission with only the recommended transmission fluid. Use of chemical
transmission flushes can damage the vehicle's transmission.
- Utilizing fluid exchange equipment is acceptable as long as Ford approved fluids are used.
- Fuel injection system flushing is not considered scheduled maintenance by Ford Motor
Company. Should the fuel injection system require cleaning to resolve a specific condition,
chemicals meeting Ford requirements are recommended, such as Motorcraft Premium Fuel
Injector Cleaner, Motorcraft Pressurized Injector Cleaner or Motorcraft Power Flush Injector
Fluid.
- engine oil system flushing is not a Ford Motor Company approved maintenance procedure
and is considered an unnecessary expense to your customers. Use of chemical/crankcase
flushes can damage the vehicle's engine.

To assist you in growing your needed customer-paid sales, Ford has established very competitive pricing on key maintenance and wear parts; including brakes, batteries, tires, filters, as well as many other products. Additionally, we have worked collaboratively with Dealer Council, PSMAC and the Dealer Advertising Associations to deploy and continually enhance significant Tier I, II and III service marketing initiatives.

Customer satisfaction, loyalty and retention are more important than ever in today's business
environment. Selling high-quality Ford and Motorcraft products builds customer loyalty to your
dealership and reinforces the brand promise implied by your Ford or Lincoln franchise. The entire Ford Team stands ready to help you achieve your consumer experience and dealership profit goals!

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Service Points for '87-96 gas engines
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'96 Bronco Maintenance Guide
'96 Bronco Owner's Manual
Ford service disk images (free) '92-07

For the '92 & '96 normal & severe maintenance schedules, read this caption:


The power steering system uses ATF ONLY - not "power steering fluid". Read the owner's manual, or the dipstick.

The hydraulic clutch uses DOT3 brake fluid, and it goes UNDER the rubber diaphragm. After removing the MC cap, remove the rubber diaphragm and empty the diaphragm. Fluid ONLY belongs under it, in the reservoir. Observe the fill line so fluid doesn't overflow when reinstalling the diaphragm.



All engines take 6 quarts of oil with a new filter. Drain bolt torque: 15-25 lb-ft

If the vehicle is used in a manner that allows it to remain stationary while the engine is running for long periods (door-to-door delivery, power/utility company trucks or similar duty), then Ford recommends increasing frequency of oil and filter changes to an interval equivalent to 200 engine hours of use. Since most vehicles are not equipped with hourmeters, it may be necessary to approximate idle time and plan oil/filter changes accordingly.

Use only MotorCraft Mercon ATF - cheap fluids aren't worth what they cost.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
TSB 89-09-10 Normal Oil Consumption

Publication Date: MAY 3, 1989

FORD: 1986-89 ALL FORD LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1986-89 ALL LINCOLN-MERCURY LINES
MERKUR: 1986-89 ALL MERKUR LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-89 ALL LIGHT TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: The following information can be used to inform vehicle owners about "normal" oil consumption in today's engines.

ACTION: Use the following information to assist in explaining "normal" oil consumption to vehicle owners.

The amount of oil an engine uses will vary with the way the vehicle is driven in addition to normal engine-to-engine variation. This is especially true during the first 7500 miles (12000 kilometers), when a new engine is being "broken-in" or until certain internal engine components become conditioned. Vehicles used in heavy duty operation (severe service) may use more oil. The following are examples of heavy duty operation:
* Trailer towing applications
* Taxi cab applications
* Police service applications
* Severe loading applications
* Sustained high speed operation

Engines need oil to lubricate the following internal components:
* Engine block cylinder walls
* Pistons and piston rings
* Intake and exhaust valve stems
* Intake and exhaust valve guides
* All internal engine components

When the pistons move downward, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The thin film of oil is burned away on the firing stroke during combustion. If an engine burned a drop of oil during each firing stroke, oil consumption would be about one (1) quart for every mile traveled. Fortunately modern engines use much less oil than this example. However, even efficient engines will use some oil or they would quickly wear out. Additionally as the vehicle is operated, some oil is drawn into the combustion chambers past the intake and exhaust valve stem seals and burned.

A lot of different things can affect oil consumption rates. The following is a partial list of these items:
* Engine size
* Operator driving habits
* Ambient temperature
* Quality and viscosity of the oil

Operation under varying conditions can be frequently misleading. A vehicle that has been run for several thousand miles (kilometers) of short trip operation or below freezing ambient temperatures, may have consumed a "normal" amount of oil. However, when checking the engine oil level, it may measure up to the full mark on the dipstick due to dilution (condensation and fuel) in the engine crankcase. The vehicle then might be driven at high speeds on the highway where the condensation and fuel boil off. The next time the engine oil is checked, it may appear that a quart of oil was used in a hundred or so miles. This perceived 100-mile per quart (160-kilometer per quart) oil consumption rate causes customer concern even though the actual overall all oil consumption rate was about 1500-miles per quart (2400-kilometers per quart).

Make sure the selected engine oil meets the recommended API performance category "SG" and SAE viscosity grade as shown in the vehicle Owner Guide. It is also important that the engine oil is changed at the intervals specified for the typical operating conditions of the customer. This information is available in the Owner Guide, Maintenance Schedule and Record log.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 86-11-16
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE DANGER OF CHANGING THE ATF

I'm no slushbox expert, but this is how I understand it:

A) Starting with a good trans & the right fluid, over time, debris is generated in the trans due to normal wear & contamination. The fluid contains detergent additives that keep this debris suspended in the fluid until it can flow back to the filter to be removed.

B) But the fluid only contains SO MUCH detergent. So if it's not changed on-schedule, the debris doesn't get suspended, and it settles out all over the trans. But this alone doesn't cause any immediate problems, which is why so many people neglect the trans fluid for so long.

C) Eventually, someone realizes how old the fluid is, and changes it with fresh detergent-rich fluid. This begins to break up the deposits, but it also loosens large chunks, which can block up the valve body's fine passages & ports, causing MAJOR damage.

D) From what I've seen, there are 2 possible ways to avoid this damage:
1) rebuild the trans
2) change the filter & fluid once, using decent aftermarket ATF. It's also a good time to add the drain plug kit. Then drive 50-200 miles to break up most of the deposits. Then change the fluid & filter again, using MotorCraft Mercon. If the trans goes out after that, it was going out anyway.
__________________________________________

The PCV System


No matter how new or well-made an engine is, the piston rings (or seals in a Wankel rotary) can't capture 100% of the combustion gases. There will always be some blowby, resulting in contamination of the crankcase oil. These contaminants most often include water (the ideal result of combustion, which remains a vapor at normal engine temperature), fuel (fuel molecules are smaller than oil molecules, so they pass by the rings more easily), soot (which turns the oil black), and various acidic gases. To reduce the accumulation of these contaminants (which rapidly affects the oil's viscosity & effectiveness), the crankcase must be positively ventilated. This means forcing a draft of air through the crankcase to carry these vapors out. But rather than venting them under the hood, the vapors are contained within the PCV system and routed into the intake system to be burned in the engine.

Since the system is powered by negative pressure (engine vacuum), I'm going to describe it in reverse:

The PCV system ends with a tube carrying the vapor-laden (& often oil-laden) airstream into the intake manifold to be burned. This tube comes from the PCV valve, which regulates the quantity of air "leaking" into the intake, and also contains a one-way valve to prevent backfires in the intake from burning into or overpressuring the crankcase. (The valve or the tube may include another port where the fuel tank vapor system is combined.) The PCV valve is installed either in an oil separator chamber outside the crankcase, or in a valve cover which often contains an oil separator, or sometimes midway in the tube to make access/replacement easier. The valve must be replaced regularly because its mechanism is lightweight (generally gravity-operated), and is easily fouled by normal engine operation. The oil separator is necessary to prevent crankcase oil from entering the intake system, fouling sensors, coating the valve stems (which accelerates wear on the valve guides), fouling the spark plugs, or increasing HC emissions. Because most oil separators are not designed to be easily serviced (and rarely if ever appear on any maintenance list), their benefit is typically lost on high-mileage vehicles, and the inside of the intake manifold suffers. The airflow thru the separator comes from the crankcase, where undesirable vapors have boiled out of the oil. On engines with 2 banks of cylinders (V or flat), the airflow is generally into one valve cover, down thru the oil drainback journals in that head, into the crankcase in the block, up the other drainbacks, & into the 2nd valve cover. On inline engines, the flow is most commonly in one end of the valve cover & out the other, but some have the oil separator on the side of the block near the pan so flow is down from the valve cover to the crankcase. The airstream enters the valve cover either thru a dedicated nipple on the cover, or thru a vented oil filler cap. In either case, the airstream originates with a fresh-air "breather" filter, usually inside the engine air cleaner housing, but sometimes simply mounted directly on a valve cover.

Several failures are common in the PCV system; the most-often noticed is oil contamination in the intake &/or the air filter housing. Oil in the intake generally indicates that the oil separator has become restricted, which might be caused by gelling of the oil from moisture buildup due to insufficient PCV flow because the valve hasn't been changed on-schedule. But infrequent oil changes or overheating, or any combination of these conditions can contribute to oil in the intake. Oil in the air filter housing is almost exclusively caused by reverse-flow in the fresh-air tube, which is often the result of worn/stuck rings, hardened exhaust valve stem seals, or a ruptured head gasket. But it may also result from low-quality oil, incorrect viscosity oil, or excessive oil. An often-overlooked failure in the PCV system is cracking of the hoses, resulting in vacuum leaks & contamination of the engine oil. All vulcanized rubber (tires, hoses, bushings, etc.) ages & deteriorates, so it must be replaced as needed. A symptom that shocks many people is the presence of light-colored foamy oil residue inside the filler cap, or in the valve covers. And while it's possible that this effect can be produced by severe engine damage (like coolant in the crankcase), it's much more likely that it's caused simply by the vehicle being used only for short trips, during which time the engine never fully heats up to boil the water out of the oil. The moisture naturally condenses in the coolest parts of the crankcase, which is the thin upper sheet metal valve covers & filler neck. It may also be noted in the top of the dipstick.

For an IMPORTANT upgrade to Ford smallblock V8s, read this:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/Reroute_PVC.pdf

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Lube Points for '80-96 F-series/Broncos

.

'96 Bronco Maintenance Guide
'96 Bronco Owner's Manual
Ford service disk images (free) '92-07

For the '92 & '96 normal & severe maintenance schedules, read this caption:

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Front Jacking Points for '86 F-series & Bronco

'80-96 similar


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Common Automotive Fasteners: Bolts, Screws, Nuts

Standard notation for thread sizes is (inch) diameter-pitch x length (i.e., 1/4-20x1) or (metric) "M"diameter x pitch x length (i.e., M8x1.25x75).

Shouldered shanked studs:


Tamper Torx bolts with captive fender washers:


http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm
https://www.henrysautomotivewarehouse.com/2017_web.pdf
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/

See also:

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A torque wrench is a device which indicates to a mechanic when he has exerted the desired amount of torque on a fastener. A reading is made directly in pounds-foot or pounds-inch. However, when accessories which add lever length are used with torque wrenches, special corrections must be made.

Adaptors or extensions are attached to the square drive of a torque wrench...
1. to attach the torque wrench to various types of fasteners or fittings so that torque may be applied.
2. to gain access to locations which cannot be reached with the torque wrench alone.

HOW ADAPTORS AFFECT TORQUE
To understand why some extensions and adaptors change or alter the torque at a fastener, a brief explanation of what is meant by "torque" and how it is measured is helpful. Theoretically, torque is the force on an object which tends to produce twist or rotation. A wrench acts as a lever when force is applied, and the amount of torque produced upon the fastener is dependent upon the length of the wrench and the amount of force applied. In Figure 1, the lever length of the wrench from the center of the fastener to the center of the hand applying the force is represented by L. The applied force is indicated by F. Since torque T is the product of the applied force multiplied by the effective lever length L, it can be calculated by using the basic formula: T = F x L. Because the applied force usually is measured in pounds, while the lever length is measured in inches or feet, the resulting torque is measured in "pounds-inch" or "pounds-foot". Thus, if F is 30 pounds and L is one foot, T becomes 30 pounds-foot. As shown in Figure 1, F must be applied at a 90° angle to the lever. When the force is applied in any other direction, a lesser torque than that calculated is exerted by the wrench.

An examination of the formula and Figure 1 brings out the following points:
a) Increasing the lever length L increases the torque if F is constant. If L is changed to 2 feet, then T becomes 60 pounds-foot, even though F remains at 30 pounds.
b) Decreasing the lever length L decreases the torque if F is the same. If L is changed to 1/2 foot, then T becomes 15 pounds-foot, even though F remains at 30 pounds.
c) The torque T is directly proportional to F, if L remains unchanged. Thus, if F is 30 pounds while the torque is 30 pounds-foot and then F is increased to 60 Pounds, torque or T then becomes 60 pounds-foot.

HOW TO COMPUTE TORQUE WHEN USING ADAPTORS
If an adaptor is attached to the square drive of a dial-type or a click-type torque wrench, adding to the length from the square drive to the fastener (parallel to the wrench), then the applied torque will be greater than the dial reading or the pre-set torque. The following formula can be used to find what the dial should read or what the pre-set torque should be in order to obtain the correct applied torque:
Dial Reading or Pre-Set Torque = (Torque Wrench Length x Torque Desired) / (Torque Wrench Length Adaptor Length)
This becomes: RS = (L x T) / (L A) when:
RS = Dial reading or torque setting of the torque wrench.
L = Distance from the center of the square drive of the torque wrench to the center of the handle grip.
A = Length of the adaptor from the center of the square drive to the center of the fastener. Use only the length which is parallel to the handle. See figures 2 and 3.
T = Torque desired. This is the actual torque applied to the fastener.

Here is a typical problem: What should the dial read or the setting be when L is 12", A is 6" and T is 30 lbs. ft. ?
RS = (L x T) / (L plus A) or (12 x 30) / (12 plus 6) = 360 / 18 = 20 lbs. ft.
Therefore 30 pounds-foot of Torque will be applied at the fastener when RS is 20 pounds-foot.

Note: If the torque wrench RS reads in pounds-foot, then T must also be in pounds-foot. Also, L and A must be the same unit of measurement.

Types of Adaptors
The problem just explained gives a very simple conversion using a straight adaptor. However, there are many types of adaptors and extensions. A few are shown in figures 4, 5, 6, and 7; but in each one, note that only the added distance from the square drive of the torque wrench increasing its length will change the readings. Note that an extension which is perpendicular to the torque wrench, regardless of length, does not affect the readings. The effective torque will be about 7% lower than the setting or dial when flex-type torque wrenches are used in the fully-flexed position.

The adaptor in Figure 4 changes the length and leverage of the torque wrench. The dial will read only a portion of the torque. A correction must be made.

Neither the extension nor the adapter in Figure 5 affect torque because neither increases the length of the torque wrench. Factor A is not involved, therefore no correction is necessary. When adaptor length A is 0, the formula RS = (L x T) / (L plus A) becomes: RS = L x T / L = T. In other words: Dial Reading or Pre-Set Torque = Torque Desired

The adaptor in Figure 6 affects the dial reading. Factor A is added and therefore a correction is necessary. Note that A is not the length of the adaptor; but only the increase in length parallel to the torque wrench. If the adapter were rotated on the square drive, its effective length would change, changing the calculation for RS.

The adaptor in Figure 7 adds length. Note that only the distance parallel to the torque wrench is used to get factor A; not the offset, or height.

See also:

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Bolt Torques
Oil internal engine threads with engine oil, unless the threads require oil or water-resistant sealer.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
.

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'48-72 Ford Truck Fronts

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Engine Diagnostic Questionnaire
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Vehicle Certification (VC) Sticker
(typically on the rear edge of the driver's door of 4-door models, or the rear of the driver's door opening below the beltline of 2-door models)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

Before posting questions on a truck BBS, take the time to create a signature so the truck's details show with every post. You can omit the model if it's the same as the forum's name and the century part of the model year. But put the 2-digit year, model (ONLY if different from the forum), engine size (ci for carb; L for EFI) and ('94-95 only) intake type (MAF or MAP), transmission model, trim level, cab/bed configuration & wheelbase, transfer case model & type (manual or ESOF) & hub lock type (4WD only), gear ratio, tire size, miles (or KMs), single/dual fuel tanks, options (like cruise, overhead console, PW/PM/PL/RKE/theft), mods (like alarm, trailer wiring), maintenance, damage, repairs, etc. If you don't know all the truck's details, continue reading the caption below & follow the links in it. DON'T POST THIS INFO because it will only appear in THAT post - not in EVERY post, as a signature will (if you set that option).

Here are some GOOD (but brief) truck descriptions:
92F XL 2WD short cab/bed 5.0 Mazda 202Kmi 3.73 31"MichelinLTX/ATs Cobra29LTD factory single tank changed 2010 for rust
84B XLS 351HO C6 3.50 ~300Kmi 4"susp 2"body D44solid front 38s red outside gray inside full cage RanchHand front & rear Warn xD9000i
95B XLT 5.0MAF 4R70W 195Kmi 35s 4.11s ESOF WarnPrm locks bought 2014 wrecked LHF replaced core support, radiator, headlights, grill, fender, tire, rim, radius arm & bushings, cab step

Here are some POOR ones:
Ford F150 pickup half ton
old Bronco 4WD with lift and tires
1995 Ford Bronco MPV new fender winch gears hubs
87 f150 xl all stock

"Stock" is a useless description because there were so many "stock" trim levels, option packages, deletable options, addable options, and subtle aftermarket changes that a recent purchaser might not recognize as such. Take the time to inspect your truck thoroughly, and itemize EVERYTHING you can possibly find on it. If you include unnecessary info, that's OK, and you may receive suggestions to remove that. But it's always better to have too much than too little.

Uploading pics of your truck would also help. It's easy to embed them in your posts if you follow the instructions at this link:
http://www.supermotors.net/forums/thid-5972-how-do-i-post-pictures-sounds-and-or-videos

Ford online VIN decoders:
http://www.fordparts.com/Landing/Motorcraft.aspx

http://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin-decoder/

Build Date Stamp Locations:
The vehicle build date stamp is located as follows: On Bronco and Light Trucks (F-150-250-350) the vehicle build date is stamped on the front surface of the radiator support on the passengers side of the vehicle. On Econoline vehicles (E-150-250-350), the build date is stamped on top of the radiator support. TSB 83-14-01 (July 13, 1983) states that F & Bronco build date stamps are relocated from the core support to the firewall (cowl/dash) inboard of the L hood hinge due to fluid spills defacing the core support stamps. Following is a sample of the four-digit number that indicates the month and day of build.
0124 = January 24
1021 = October 21
Yellow ink is normally used for the date stamp. When the marking surface is painted the body color, the date stamp will be marked in red ink. Units from the Ontario Truck Plant (C) will be marked with silver ink.

The build date stamp on my '93EB Bronco is on the L side of the hood in the area above the VECI label in yellow ink.
JUN30 1993


Standard VINs do not contain the letters I, O, or Q, due to their similarity with numerals.

Country code (1st VIN digit):
1 = USA
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico
4 = USA (Nissan / Mazda)
5 = USA
J = Japan
K = Korea
S = United Kingdom (England)

Manufacturer code (2nd VIN digit):
A = Land Rover
C = Toyo Kogyo
F = Ford / Mazda
M = Mercury
L = Lincoln
N = Nissan / Kia
Z = Ford (Auto Alliance Int'l.)

Type code (3rd VIN digit):
A = Passenger Car (Ford)
B = Bus
C = Stripped Chassis Truck (Ford)
D = Incomplete Vehicle Truck (Ford)
E = Passenger Car (Mercury), Incomplete Vehicle (Ford)
F = Motor Vehicle/Equipment without engine/powertrain
H = Incomplete Vehicle (Mercury)
J = Incomplete Vehicle (Lincoln)
L = MultiPurpose Vehicle (Land Rover)
M = MultiPurpose Vehicle (Ford)
N = Passenger Car (Lincoln)
T = Complete Truck (Ford)
2 = Imported Passenger Car/MPV (Mazda)
3 = Imported Incomplete Vehicle (Mercury/Nissan/Mazda)
4 = Imported Incomplete Vehicle
4 = Imported Truck/MPV (Mazda)

GVWR/Brakes/Restraints (4th VIN digit) for Ford/L/M:
A = Class A hydraulic under 3Kip
B = Class B hydraulic 3-4Kip
C = Class C hydraulic 4-5Kip
D = Class D hydraulic 5-6Kip
E = Class E hydraulic 6-7Kip
F = Class F hydraulic 7-8Kip
G = Class G hydraulic 8-8.5Kip
H = Class G hydraulic 8.5-9Kip
J = Class H hydraulic 9-10Kip
K = Class 3 hydraulic 10-14Kip
L = Class 4 hydraulic 14-16Kip
M = Class 5 hydraulic 16-19.5Kip
N = Class 6 hydraulic 19.5-26Kip
P = Class 7 hydraulic 26-33Kip, or 7-8Kip w/2 front airbags
R = Class 8 hydraulic 33-55 Kip, or 6-7Kip w/2 front airbags
S = Class 9 hydraulic over 55Kip
T = Class 3 pneumatic 10-14Kip
U = Class 4 pneumatic 14-16Kip
V = Class 5 pneumatic 16-19.5Kip
X = Class 6 pneumatic 19.5-26Kip
Y = Class 7 pneumatic 26-33Kip
Z = Class 8 pneumatic 33-55Kip, or hydraulic 5-6Kip w/2 front airbags
For more specs, check the Ford website.

Line code (5th VIN digit) for Ford trucks:
E = fullsize van light truck
F = standard cab fullsize light truck
X = extended cab fullsize light truck
W = crew cab fullsize light truck
U = wagon body fullsize light truck

Series code (6th VIN digit) for Ford trucks:
0 = 1/2 ton flareside
1 = 1/2 ton light truck
2 = 3/4 ton light truck
3 = 1 ton light truck

Body Type code (7th VIN digit) for Ford trucks:
Even numbers generally indicate 4WD; odd 2WD, except U15 is 4WD.

Engine code (D - 8th VIN digit) for Ford/L/M:
Early engine tag: . . Late-model engine tag:
. . . .
A = 140ci 1bbl/2.3L I4 EFI ('90-92), MFI (93-95), SOHC-EFI ('97-98 )
A = (pre '81) 460ciM V8, ('99-up) 5.4L V8 DOHC
B = 200ci 1bbl/3.3L I6, or 300ci 1bbl/4.9L I6, or 2.3L I4
B = 2.5L I4 SOHC-IDI ('98 )
C = 232ci 2bbl/3.8L V6 or SC
C = 2.0L I4, or 2.5L SOHC-MFI ('98 )
C = 7.3L TurboDiesel V8 ('92-94)
D = 4.2L V8 ('81-82) F-series/Bronco ???
D = 2.3L I4 ('85)
E = ('80-82) 300ci 1bbl I6, or 2.3L I4 ('85-87), or 4.0L V6 SOHC-MFI ('97-98 )
F = ('80-82) 302ci VV/5.0L CFI/5.0L EFI V8 or HO
F = 7.3L Navistar V8 DI ('94½-98 ) "PowerStroke"
G = (pre '83) 302ci VV/5.0L CFI V8
G = ('80, '83-85) 351ciW VV/5.8L V8 or HO
G = 460ciM/7.5L V8 EFI ('86-92 ), MFI ('93-96), OHV-EFI ('98 )
H = (pre '77) 390ciM V8 (overlap '76 351W)
H = (76-79) 351ciW 2bbl or HO/5.8L V8 or HO (overlap '77-79 351ciM)
H = (77-79) 351ciM V8 (overlap '77-79 351ciW)
H = (88-98 ) 5.8L (351ciW EFI) V8
J = 460ciM/7.5L V8
K = 300ci 1bbl/4.9L I6 HD
K = 7.3L Navistar V8 IDI Turbo ('94)
L = ('83-86) 460ciM/7.5L V8
L = 5.4L V8 gas SOHC-MFI ('97-00), SFI SOHC ('00-up)
M = ('83-85) 3.7L White I4
M = (86-'00) 302ci/5.0L CFI or 5.0L EFI V8 or HO
M = ('88-96) 7.3L V8 diesel IDI NA
M = ('00-up) 5.4L CNG SOHC V8
N = ('86-02) 302ci/5.0L EFI V8 or HO
N = ('97-98 ) 5.4L SOHC-EFI V8
P = 2.2L V6
P = 5.0L EFI V8 (Explorer/Mountaineer)
R = 232ci/3.8L EFI V6 SC
R = ('92-97) 351ciW VV/Lightning 5.8L V8 HP
S = 2.8L I4, or ('78-80) 400ciM V8, or ('97-98 ) 6.8L EFI V10
T = 140ci/2.3L EFI I4 Turbo
T = 2.9L EFI V6 ('93), or 3.3L V6 SOHC ('99-00)
U = 3.0L EFI V6 ('93-00)
V = ('91) 3.4L Cummins diesel I6
V = ('03-05) 4.6L SFI V8 DOHC Marauder
W = ('81-82) 351ciW V8
W = ('86-92) 140ci/2.3L EFI I4 Turbo
W = ('93-97) 3.0L EFI V6 (compact truck)
W = ('94-up) 4.6L EFI V8 SOHC Romeo (passenger car)
W = ('97-98 ) 4.6L SOHC-MFI V8
X = 200ci 1bbl or 2bbl (Canada)/3.3L I6
X = ('93-00) 4.0L EFI V6
Y = 300ci 1bbl/4.9L EFI I6
Z = ('81-82) 400ciM/6.6L V8
Z = ('85) 2.3L I4 (Brazil)
Z = ('94-97) 4.9L GFP I6
Z = ('00-up) 5.4L CNG/Propane SOHC V8
1 = ('83-86) 420ci IH diesel V8
1 = ('97-98 ) 3.0L SOHC-EFI V6
1 = ('99) electric 90hp
2 = ('97-00) 4.2L V6 EFI
3 = ('81-96) 232ci/3.8L CFI or EFI V6
3 = ('00-up) 5.4L SFI SOHC SC V8 Lightning
4 = ('94-00) 232ci/3.8L EFI V6
5 = ('04-up) 5.4L SFI V8 SOHC 3-valve
6 = ('94-up) 4.6L EFI V8 SOHC
7 = 351ci/5.8L V8 (export)
9 = (pre-'96) 300ci 1bbl/4.9L LP I6
9 = ('03-05) 4.6L CNG/LPG V8 SOHC

Check digit (E - 9th VIN digit):
A complex calculation using all other VIN characters (converted to numeric values) produces this value, which can be 0-9 or X (for 10).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VIN

Year code (F - 10th VIN digit):
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002
3 = 2003
4 = 2004
5 = 2005
6 = 2006
7 = 2007
8 = 2008
9 = 2009
0 = 2010

Plant code (G - 11th VIN digit) for Ford/L/M:
B = Oakville, Onatario, Canada
C = Oakville, Ontario, Canada (Truck)
D = Avon Lake, OH (Truck)
E = Mahwah (?-'81-?)
E = Louisville (Jefferson Co.), KY (Truck)
H = Loraine, OH
I = Highland Park, MI
J = Monterrey, Mexico
K = K.C. (Claycomo), MO
L = Wayne, MI (Truck) (all '66-96 Broncos)
M = Cuatitlan, Mexico
N = Norfolk, VA
P = St. Paul, MN or Twin City, MS
T = Edison, NJ
U = Louisville, KY (CUV)
V = Jefferson, KY (heavy)
Z = St. Louis (Hazlewood), MO

Exterior Paint Colors:
'93 . '94 . '96

BRAKE code for Ford trucks:
1 = 4-wheel disk ('96 F-superduty)
3 or D = 4WABS ('93-96 Bronco, & later F-series)
4 or B = RABS ('87-93 Bronco, & '87-96 F-series)

BODY (aka INTerior TRim) code for Ford trucks:
1st digit: seats/upholstery
2nd digit: interior color

3rd digit (F-series only): cab/bed
3 - flareside standard cab
4 - styleside standard cab
8 - chassis cab (standard cab, bed delete)
C - flareside super cab
D - styleside crew cab (4-door)
E - chassis cab (crew cab, bed delete)
M - styleside super cab
P - chassis cab (super cab, bed delete)
X - stripped chassis (Mexico)

TRANSmission (aka TRansmission) codes for Ford trucks:
. . Auto Trans ID by Pan Gasket
adrianspeeder's Trans ID list
5Speeds.Com's Tag Identifier (bottom of page)
A = NP435 4sp
B = BW T-85 3sp ('76-78 ), Clark OD 4sp ('79-86), Ford SROD/Tremac T170 4sp, or T199 (Mexico only)
C = Ford 3.03 3sp, or ZF S5-42 Close-ratio 5sp
D = BW T-89 3sp
E = BW T-87 3sp (early), or E4OD/4R100 auto (gas)
F = BW T-18 4sp
G = Ford C4 auto
J = Ford FMX auto
K = Ford C6 auto
M = Mazda M5OD-R2 5sp
P = BW T-19 4sp (early), or Ford C6 auto
T = Ford AOD auto
U = Ford 4R70W auto
W = Ford C5 auto, or ZF S5-42 HD Wide-ratio 5sp
Z = ZF S5-42 5sp
6 = ZF M6HD-6 6sp
7 = Ford E4OD/4R100 auto (Lightning)
9 = Ford E4OD/4R100 auto (diesel)

AXLE codes for Ford trucks:
1st digit: A letter generally indicates a limited slip diff (H for 1/2-tons) or a heavy axle; 1 generally indicates a 1/2-ton axle with an open diff; 2 generally indicates a 3/4-ton open; 3 a 1-ton open. There are MANY exceptions.
2nd digit:
1 = 3.07 (heavy), 3.00 (light), 3.54, 3.07
2 = 2.73, 3.73 (early light), 3.50 (early heavy), 4.63 (late heavy)
3 = 3.54 (late), 3.73 (early), 4.10, 4.11, 5.13 (heavy)
4 = 3.00 or 3.73
5 = 4.10 or 4.00
6 = 3.55 (heavy) or 3.73 (medium)
7 = 3.31 or 2.47
8 = 3.08, 4.88 (heavy)
9 = 3.55, 3.70 or 4.11 (early)
3rd digit: (4WD only) Any character (usually 2 or B) indicates a limited slip front axle

8.8" axles under fullsize light trucks are rated at 3800 lbs or more.
.

SPRing codes refer to specific PNs for the springs on a truck, and can only be decoded by a Ford parts counter person. But they're mostly obsolete since springs can't be ordered that way for most (older) vehicles.

DSO (District Sales Office) RC (Region Code):
11 - Boston
13 - New York
16 - Philadelphia
17 - Washington D.C. (before '94)
21 - Atlanta
23 - Memphis
24 - Orlando
27 - Washington D.C. (after '93)
41 - Chicago
44 - Pittsburgh
47 - Cincinnati
48 - Detroit
52 - Dallas
53 - Kansas City
56 - Denver
58 - Twin Cities
71 - Los Angeles
72 - San Jose (before '94)
72 - San Francisco (after '93)
74 - Seattle
76 - Denver (early)
83 - Government
84 - Home Office Reserve (HOR)
85 - American Red Cross
86 - Recreational Vehicle Pool
87 - Body Company
89 - Transportation Services
9A - Export
A1 - Mercury Canada Central
A2 - Mercury Canada Eastern
A3 - Mercury Canada Atlantic
A4 - Mercury Canada Midwestern
A6 - Mercury Canada Western
A7 - Mercury Canada Pacific
A8 - Mercury Canada Great Lakes
I1 - Mercury/Ford Canada Export
B1 - Ford Canada Central
B2 - Ford Canada Eastern
B3 - Ford Canada Atlantic
B4 - Ford Canada Midwestern
B6 - Ford Canada Western
B7 - Ford Canada Pacific
B8 - Ford Canada Great Lakes

Domestic Special Order (DSO), FSO, PTO:
If applicable, the complete order number is under the DSO spacer after the 2-digit region code.


Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

GM VIN decoder cards

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Early Engine Calibration Label

Late style:


Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

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Vehicle Emission Control Information label details
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The VECI label includes specific engine calibration information, the tune-up procedure (if applicable), the base timing procedure, and the vacuum map. Most of the information on it is virtually unique to the vehicle it's applied to - do not use the VECI from another vehicle unless you confirm that they were built exactly the same way in every detail.

Early (carb) VECI label location was on the air cleaner cover or a valve cover or the core support; '87-91 was usually on the air filter box; '92-up is usually on the hood above the brake booster.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article to learn how each one benefits the engine.

For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, look under the hood. If it's gone or illegible, you can try to find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC, and Google it. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.



Manufacturers must use a system standardized by EPA in 1991 for identifying engine families to meet new regulatory requirements for 1994 and later model years.

Both the engine family name and the evaporative family names are listed in the box on the emission decal in the area marked as engine/evaporative family information. The first line is the spark plug information. The second line contains the engine size, followed by a dash, and the evaporative family name (12 characters). The third line contains the engine family name (12 characters), and other vehicle specific information.

The following list of digit positions is for BOTH the evap. AND engine family names. Positions that are different are identified in parentheses.

1) Model Year (same as VIN 10th digit)
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002
3 = 2003
4 = 2004
5 = 2005
6 = 2006
7 = 2007
8 = 2008
9 = 2009
0 = 2010

2&3) Manufacturer ID
FM = Ford Motor Company

4) (evaporative family name) Vapor Storage System
1 = Canister
2 = Crankcase
3 = Air Cleaner
4 = Canister & Crankcase
5 = Crankcase & Air Cleaner
6 = Canister & Air Cleaner
7 = Canister & Crankcase & Air Cleaner

4,5,&6) (engine family name) Engine Displacement
Numbers with a decimal (which counts as a digit) are in liters
Numbers without a decimal are in cubic inches

5,6,&7) (evaporative family name) Canister Capacity
Grams of fuel vapor

7) (engine family name) Vehicle Class
V = LightDutyVehicle (or CARB's PassengerCar) any Tier, any Fuel
1 = LightDutyTruck LVW under 3750, GVWR under 6000, Tier 1
2 = LDT LVW over 3750, GVWR under 6000, Tier 1
3 = LDT LVW=any, or LightDutyDieselTruck LVW under 3750, ALVW=3751-5750, GVWR over 6000, Tier 1
4 = LDT LVW=any, or LDDT LVW under 3750, ALVW over 5750, GVWR over 6000, Tier 1
5 = LDDT LVW over 3750, ALVW=3751-5750, GVWR over 6000
6 = LDDT LVW over 3750, ALVW over 5750, GVWR over 6000
7 = LDT LVW under 3750, NOx=1.2, Tier 0
8 = LDT LVW over 3750, NOx=1.7, Tier 0
A = LHDE Light Duty OPTION for under 10,000 GVWR
B = LHDE over 14K GVWR, Typically GVWR under 19.5K & HP 70-170
C = LHDE any GVWR, Typically GVWR under 19.5K & HP 70-170
D = MHDE over 14K, GVWR Typically GVWR 19.5K-33K & HP 170-250
E = HHDE over 14K, GVWR Typically GVWR over 33K & HP over 250
F = HHDE Urban Bus (HHDDEE Bus)
G = CARB MDT-1 GVWR under 6000, ALVW under 3750
H = CARB MDT-2 GVWR under 6000, ALVW=3751-5750
J = CARB MDT-3 GVWR under 6000, ALVW=5751-8500
K = CARB MDT-4 GVWR under 6000, ALVW=8501-10,000
L = CARB MDT-5 GVWR under 6000, ALVW=10,001-14,000

* LVW - Loaded Vehicle Weight=curb weight 300 pounds *
* ALVW - Adjusted Loaded Vehicle Weight=curb weight GVWR) /2 *
* LHDE - Light Heavy Duty Engine *
* MHDE - Medium Heavy Duty Engine *
* HHDE - Heavy Heavy Duty Engine *
* HHDDE - Heavy Heavy Duty Diesel Engine *

8 ) (evaporative family name) Canister & Purge Configuration
A = Plastic Housing, Closed Bottom, Purge controlled
B = Plastic Housing, Open Bottom, Purge controlled
C = Metal Housing, Closed Bottom, Purge controlled
D = Metal Housing, Open Bottom, Purge controlled
W = Plastic Housing, Closed Bottom, Purge not controlled
X = Plastic Housing, Open Bottom, Purge not controlled
Y = Metal Housing, Closed Bottom, Purge not controlled
Z = Metal Housing, Open Bottom, Purge not controlled

8 ) (engine family name) Fuelling & Valves per Cylinder
0 = Multiple Carb 2 Valves/Cylinder
1 = 1 BBL Carb 2 Valves/Cylinder
2 = 2 BBL Carb 2 Valves/Cylinder
3 = 3 BBL Carb 2 Valves/Cylinder
4 = 4 BBL Carb 2 Valves/Cylinder
5 = Throttle Body Injection (TBI) 2 Valves/Cylinder
6 = Mechanical MFI 2 Valves/Cylinder
7 = Electrical MFI (bank-fired) 2 Valves/Cylinder
8 = Electrical MFI (sequential) 2 Valves/Cylinder
9 = Central Port Injection 2 Valves/Cylinder
A = Multiple Carb 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
B = 1 BBL Carb 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
C = 2 BBL Carb 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
D = 3 BBL Carb 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
E = 4 BBL Carb 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
F = Throttle Body Injection (TBI) 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
G = Mechanical MFI 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
H = Electrical MFI (bank-fired) 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
J = Electrical MFI (sequential) 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
K = Central Port Injection 3 or more Valves/Cylinder
Y = None (Electric)
Z = Other

9) (evaporative family name) Fuel System
N = Carburetor
Y = Fuel Injection

9) (engine family name) Combustion & Fuel Types
A = Diesel Cycle (CI), Methanol
B = Diesel Cycle (CI), Ethanol
C = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), CNG
D = Diesel Cycle (CI), Diesel Fuel
E = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Ethanol
F = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Flexible Methanol-Gasoline
G = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Gasoline
H = Diesel Cycle (CI), Flexible Methanol-Diesel
J = Diesel Cycle (CI), Other Flexible Fuel
K = Diesel Cycle (CI), CNG
L = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), LPG
M = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Methanol
N = 4-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Other Flexible Fuel
P = Diesel Cycle (CI), LPG
Q = Turbine, Diesel
R = 4-stroke Otto Cycle Wankel Rotary (SI), Gasoline
S = Turbine, Methanol/Ethanol
T = Turbine, Gasoline
U = Turbine, CNG
V = Turbine, LPG
W = Turbine, Flexible Fuel
X = 4-stroke Otto Cycle Wankel Rotary (SI), Other Fuels
Y = Hybrid Electric
Z = Electric
2 = 2-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Gasoline
3 = 2-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Methanol/Ethanol
4 = 2-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Diesel
5 = 2-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), CNG
6 = 2-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), LPG
7 = 2-stroke Otto Cycle (SI), Flexible Fuel

10) (evaporative family name) Fuel Tank Material
M = Metal
P = Plastic
C = Both metal and plastic tanks

10) (engine family name) Standards
A = Federal Tier 0HC/CO/NOx, Any PM
B = Federal Tier 0HC/CO/NOx, Any PM
C = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 0 PM
D = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 0 PM
E = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 1 PM
F = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 1 PM
G = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 0 PM
H = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 0 PM
J = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 1 PM
K = Federal Tier 1 0HC/CO/NOx, Tier 1 PM
L-Z = (Reserved)
0 = CARB Tier 0
1 = CARB Tier 1
2 = CARB TLEV
3 = CARB LEV
4 = CARB ULEV
5 = CARB ZEV (Electric)

11) (evaporative family name) Tier
0 = California regulations prior to 1993 model year and Federal regulations prior to 1994 model year
1 = California regulations beginning in 1993 model year and Federal regulations beginning in 1994 model year

11) (engine family name) Catalyst/Trap
A,B = Oxidation Catalyst Only
C,D = Reduction Catalyst
E,F,G,H = 3-Way Catalyst
J,K,L,M = 3-Way Oxidation Catalyst
N,P,Q = Heated Catalyst
R,S,T = No Catalyst
Y,Z = Other
1,2 = Trap-Active Regeneration
3,4 = Trap-Continuous Regeneration
5,6 = Trap-Continuous Regeneration Fuel Add.

12) (evaporative family name) Suffix
Any letter

12) (engine family name) OBD/ICI
A-J (excluding I) = Federal: Non-OBD; California: CARB OBD I or OBD not applicable for CARB
K-T (excluding O) = Federal: OBD; California: CARB OBD II
U = NCP - Federal: Non-OBD; California: CARB OBD I or OBD not applicable for CARB
V = NCP - Federal: OBD; California: CARB OBD II
W = Averaging or Bank/Trade - Federal: Non-OBD; California: CARB OBD I or OBD not applicable for CARB
X = Averaging or Bank/Trade- Federal: OBD; California Only: CARB OBD II
____________________________________________________________________
Emissions Systems
Too many people don't understand emissions systems, or why they exist, and waste time & effort removing or disabling them. Early systems were inefficient, cumbersome, unreliable, and produced adverse effects on engine performance, causing many people to think that emissions systems were inherently bad. They aren't. Modern systems are transparent to the operator, and do a fair job of reducing smog & improving air quality, considering the number of vehicles that exist, and the number of miles they're driven. Some even HELP engine performance.

Here's a list of Automotive Terms & Abbreviations.

WHAT ARE VEHICLE EMISSIONS?
Anything that escapes from a vehicle is an emission, including sound. Mufflers reduce sound emissions; open headers, dump valves, & glasspacks don't, and most jurisdictions have laws against excessive noise, so sound emissions ARE regulated. But the term "emissions" in this context more often refers to chemical emissions generated by the fluids used in vehicles, & the operation of internal combustion engines. Liquid leaks are the worst type of emission since they're so concentrated & toxic, but oddly, they're the least-regulated in the US. Even a small coolant leak can kill several animals within hours, but I've never heard of a ticket being issued or an inspector failing a vehicle for liquid leaks. The only harmless liquid leak is A/C evaporator condensate, since it's just cool, dirty water. Windshield washer fluid often contains poisonous alcohols (as surfactants & antifreeze), so it would be an unhealthy leak. (It's harmless as-designed because it's only sprayed out when it will be immediately diluted by rain.) But the emissions that get the most attention are vapors & exhaust gases. The EPA has mandated an 8-year/80Kmi compulsory emissions warranty on all vehicles sold in the US since 1995.

EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS
Recently, these systems have become combined, but originally, there were 2 distinct evaporative systems: fuel tank vapor, and PCV. The PCV system was developed to stop the early practise of simply venting crankcase vapors (and often fluids) out of a valve cover, where they were allowed to drip to the ground, or blow away. Fuel tank vapor has always been a concern since it represents a loss of fuel, which has become increasingly expensive. It's also a fire hazard, and extremely noxious & toxic.

PCV

No matter how new or well-made an engine is, the piston rings (or seals in a Wankel rotary) can't capture 100% of the combustion gases. There will always be some blowby, resulting in contamination of the crankcase oil. These contaminants most often include water (the ideal result of combustion, which remains a vapor at normal engine temperature), fuel (gasoline molecules are smaller than oil molecules, so they pass by the rings more easily), soot (which turns the oil black), and various acidic gases. To reduce the accumulation of these contaminants (which rapidly affects the oil's viscosity & effectiveness), the crankcase must be positively ventilated. This means forcing a draft of air through the crankcase to carry these vapors out. But rather than venting them under the hood, the vapors are contained within the PCV system and routed into the intake system to be burned in the engine.

Since the PCV system is powered by negative pressure (engine vacuum), I'm going to describe it in reverse. The PCV system ends with a tube carrying the vapor-laden (& often oil-laden) airstream into the intake manifold to be burned. This tube comes from the PCV valve, which regulates the quantity of air "leaking" into the intake, and also contains a one-way valve to prevent backfires in the intake from burning into or overpressuring the crankcase. (The valve or the tube may include another port where the fuel tank vapor system is combined.) The PCV valve is installed either in an oil separator chamber outside the crankcase, or in a valve cover which often contains an oil separator, or sometimes midway in the tube to make access/replacement easier. The valve must be replaced regularly because its mechanism is lightweight (generally gravity-operated), and is easily fouled by normal engine operation. The oil separator is necessary to prevent crankcase oil from entering the intake system, fouling sensors, coating the valve stems (which accelerates wear on the valve guides), fouling the spark plugs, or increasing HC emissions. Because most oil separators are not designed to be easily serviced (and rarely if ever appear on any maintenance list), their benefit is typically lost on high-mileage vehicles, and the inside of the intake manifold suffers. The airflow thru the separator comes from the crankcase, where undesirable vapors have boiled out of the oil. On engines with 2 banks of cylinders (V or flat), the airflow is generally into one valve cover, down thru the oil drainback journals in that head, into the crankcase in the block, up the other drainbacks, & into the 2nd valve cover. On inline engines, the flow is most commonly in one end of the valve cover & out the other, but some have the oil separator on the side of the block near the pan so flow is down from the valve cover to the crankcase. The airstream enters the valve cover either thru a dedicated nipple on the cover, or thru a vented oil filler cap. In either case, the airstream originates with a fresh-air "breather" filter, usually inside the engine air cleaner housing, but sometimes simply mounted directly on a valve cover.

Several failures are common in the PCV system; the most-often noticed is oil contamination in the intake &/or the air filter housing. Oil in the intake generally indicates that the oil separator has become restricted, which might be caused by gelling of the oil from moisture buildup due to insufficient PCV flow because the valve hasn't been changed on-schedule. But infrequent oil changes or overheating, or any combination of these conditions can contribute to oil in the intake. Oil in the air filter housing is almost exclusively caused by reverse-flow in the fresh-air tube, which is often the result of worn/stuck rings, hardened exhaust valve stem seals, or a ruptured head gasket. But it may also result from low-quality oil, incorrect viscosity oil, or excessive oil. An often-overlooked failure in the PCV system is cracking of the hoses, resulting in vacuum leaks & contamination of the engine oil. All vulcanized rubber (tires, hoses, bushings, etc.) ages & deteriorates, so it must be replaced as needed. A symptom that shocks many people is the presence of light-colored foamy oil residue inside the filler cap, or in the valve covers. And while it's possible that this effect can be produced by severe engine damage (like coolant in the crankcase), it's much more likely that it's caused simply by the vehicle being used only for short trips, during which time the engine never fully heats up to boil the water out of the oil. The moisture naturally condenses in the coolest parts of the crankcase, which is the thin upper sheet metal valve covers & filler neck. It may also be noted in the top of the dipstick.

Fuel Tank Vapor

Gasoline is extremely volatile in almost all environments, and even diesel is aromatic. Since these vapors can be flammable or noxious, they must be contained & routed to the engine to be burned. But they are produced even when the vehicle is unused for long periods, so a simple tube from the fuel tank to the engine would still allow them to vent out the air filter. Also, during hot weather or violent maneuvers, the quantity of vapor generated can exceed the engine's capacity at low RPM, so the vapors must be stored & their flow regulated.

The system begins in the fuel tank where one or more valves are used to vent vapor pressure, but also to exclude liquid from the vapor system due to overfilling, slosh, or rollover. There may also be a pressure sensor to monitor the system's operation & effectiveness, and/or a vent valve (CANV solenoid, or built into the cap) to allow fresh air into the fuel tank or vapor system. As vapor exits the tank, it flows thru a tube to a canister containing carbon (activated charcoal), which absorbs the fuel vapor, but allows air to pass. Depending on the size of the fuel tank, there may be several canisters, or a larger canister. Older canisters are vented, but they're known to collect water, so most modern canisters are sealed. Another tube leads from the canister toward the engine's intake, but it may contain a regulator valve (CANP solenoid, or VMV). The vapor system may also combine with the PCV system at this point.

Being virtually a zero-maintenance system, most faults are simple valve failures, hose leaks, or mechanical damage (collision, road debris, etc.).

Faults in the evaporative systems are usually detected by the use of a special machine which pumps a non-toxic non-flammable high-visibility smoke into the vapor lines to make leaks evident. But a common source of evaporative codes on '97-04 vehicles is the operator not securing the fuel filler cap. Earlier vehicles didn't detect this, and later vehicles are designed to exclude this from turning on the CEL.

EXHAUST EMISSIONS

The obvious source of a vehicle's chemical emissions is the engine, where fuel is first atomized (to speed vaporization) & mixed with air (which is ~75% Nitrogen & only ~15% Oxygen) and then ignited in some way to produce pressure which acts on the pistons to turn the crankshaft & propel the vehicle's mass. The chemical process of combustion is often oversimplified to CxHxOx O2 = CO2 H2O (the stoichiometric ideal), but there's actually MUCH more going on inside an engine. Not all the fuel is vaporized; the fuel molecules aren't always perfectly paired with Oxygen molecules; other chemicals participate or interfere; the heat released by the reaction can trigger OTHER reactions; tolerance & wear on the mechanical components doesn't always result in ideal combustion; the environment (weather) can affect the process; and the electronic controls (including the ignition system) may not operate exactly as intended.

HC

Unburned fuel is probably the single biggest concern in vehicle emissions, not only because it's the most detrimental to the environment, but also because it's a waste of money. As engine management technology has progressed, a continually-increasing proportion of fuel is burned within the combustion chambers where it produces useable energy. Possibly the single biggest step in this direction is EFI, which results in MUCH more precise control of fuel flow, MUCH better atomization, and consequentially higher engine efficiency & reliability. Electronic engine management has also contributed significantly by instantly adjusting fuel delivery to the engine's exact state, and to the operator's needs. But overfuelling still occurs frequently (for several reasons), resulting in unacceptable HC emissions. The earliest attempt to reduce these emmissions was the addition of a device to "re-burn" the exhaust & consume this fuel (a "thermactor"). Engineers found that pure Platinum metal facilitated the reaction between fuel molecules & oxygen in the hot exhaust stream, without consuming the Platinum (meaning that it "catalyzes" the reaction). So powdered Platinum was mixed with ceramic clay & formed into honecomb-shaped tube extrusions to be incorporated in the exhaust system. Given its high surface area, the vast majority of the unburned fuel could be catalyzed before being emitted, but the Lead that was being added to gasoline as an anti-knock agent coated the Platinum, requiring UNleaded fuel to be produced. (The anti-knock agents in unleaded fuel are cheaper than Lead, but oil companies recognized the opportunity to gouge consumers & priced the new fuel accordingly.) But the high cost of Platinum & the expenses associated with developing the technology caused early designers to undersize catalytic converters, resulting in exhaust restrictions that noticeably reduced engine performance. Their initial solution was to add air to the exhaust (secondary air) using a belt-driven pump so that the fuel would burn more easily. But again; those early systems were too complicated (vacuum controls) & poorly designed for the typical mechanic to understand, so they were often neglected, modified, or sabotaged causing most people to think secondary air was counterproductive or unnecessary. Over time, and with the development of EFI, the cost of producing catalytic converters has come down, and the quality of their construction has gone up, making them very reliable & effective. So effective, in fact, that most now don't require the addition of downstream air. They have also been improved with additional catalyst chemicals that reduce CO & NOx emissions (3-way cats). Currently, the single biggest threat to a catalytic convertor/thermactor is probably mechanical damage. Collisions, road debris, improper service technique, & fording can shatter the delicate ceramic structure, causing exhaust restriction, noise, & increased emissions. But another significant threat is severe overfuelling (either because of fuel delivery or misfiring) which can overheat the ceramic substrate to the point that it powders & erodes. Modern engine management systems include dedicated downstream Oxygen sensors to monitor the catalysts' performance, but this performance generally has no impact on engine performance (exhaust restriction being the main exception).


The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the "coffee can" reservoir on the R wheelwell), get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance.

NOx/EGR

To get the maximum power & efficiency from an engine, most designers set the fuel/air mixture slightly lean, and advance the ignition timing. But these adjustments also result in very high combustion temperatures, which allow the formation of oxides of Nitrogen (air's 2 main components). These compounds dissolve into rain to form acid which affects agriculture, lakes, & even stone buildings and paint. Another way to increase the engine's power is to reduce its moving mass by using Aluminum & its alloys for the pistons & connecting rods. But the high temperature can even oxidize the Aluminum & burn through the pistons, causing catastrophic engine failure. (Aluminum heads don't suffer as badly since they're water-cooled.) So to permit this increased performance, AND to reduce emissions, engineers found that introducing a metered quantity of inert exhaust gas back into the intake would significantly reduce the combustion temperature, WITHOUT a corresponding reduction in power or efficiency. As with other emissions systems, early implementations of EGR had problems that lead to a common misconception about its practicality. The engineers designing the alloy pistons weren't necessarily using the same design parameters as those developing the EGR systems, so both were overly conservative, and performance suffered. But modern engine management systems are more synchronized, and EGR is actually beneficial when properly maintained. Modern catalytic converters are also designed to reduce NOx emissions. Engines designed without EGR are either running rich (to keep the combustion temps down), or are using exceptionally-precise operating parameters to minimize NOx formation.

Failures in the EGR system commonly result from the same type of vacuum leaks & wiring damage that can affect the 2ndry air controls, but excessive soot in the exhaust can block the EGR journals in the intake, resulting in insufficient EGR flow. Also, the EGR valve's pintle can crack, allowing exhaust to pass even when the valve is commanded closed. There is a common misconception about water contamination inside the PFE/DPFE, but that water is safe & insignificant; the actual cause of that problem was a design flaw in the sensor itself, which has been corrected. On some older engines, the EGR's external tube is known to crack or rust allowing an exhaust leak, but modern tubes are stainless & much more reliable.

VECI
Take a minute to open your hood & REALLY look at the stickers & labels. There should be one either on the hood, the air filter cover, or the core support that gives the tune-up procedure, spark plug type & gap, codes for the emissions systems & components, and the vacuum map. If it's aging & fading, take a GOOD photo of it to keep in your records, or find the exact same one onlnine so you'll always have it. It can take a little while to figure out what the map's colors & abbreviations mean, but the map is laid out BASICALLY the way you see the engine when you open the hood. Ford always uses the same color for a given function on every vehicle of every year model. For instance, a green vacuum line is ALWAYS for the EGR; red is always manifold vacuum; black is always vacuum supplied thru a check valve &/or reservoir. So even if you don't copy the original vacuum system precisely, connecting all the lines of the same color will PROBABLY work.

SO WHAT DOES ALL THAT MEAN?
If you look back at each system, you'll notice that each is virtually independent of each other, which means that a fault in one doesn't mean that ALL the emissions systems have failed. And you should also note how simple each one is, when you understand what each component does, and how it's designed to work. So even if you're not required by LOCAL laws to maintain your vehicle's emissions systems (FEDERAL laws always require it, and don't think your local laws will never change), there's no reason to start ripping & shredding what you don't comprehend. You're more likely to HURT the engine & make it perform WORSE than to solve any symptom you've noticed. Fix the problem - don't create new ones. A few minutes & dollars spent repairing an emissions system will pay itself back RAPIDLY in engine reliability, and in the maintainability of a stock system. If you've ripped out a bunch of random vacuum lines & weird parts, you'll probably find it VERY difficult to get helpful suggestions over the internet since NO ONE (including YOU) will know what you've screwed up.

Here's a list of Automotive Terms & Abbreviations.

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TowAxleTrans86.JPG | Hits: 8156 | Size: 82.79 KB | Posted on: 10/13/10 | Link to this image


'86 Towing, Transmission, T-case, & Axle Capacities
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



For later trucks, check the Ford website.

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Alternator3Gexploded.JPG | Hits: 9240 | Size: 84.08 KB | Posted on: 10/19/11 | Link to this image


Ford 3G (3rd Generation) Alternator Exploded

N807805-S368 - Pulley Nut
10344 - Pulley
108384 - Cardboard Tube
10A351 - Drive End Frame (this style is the side-mount used mostly on V8s; the 4 holes between the front rib pairs indicates 95A output)
10A303 - Bearing, front
10A355 - Bearing Retainer, front
389217-S2 - Screw
10A360 - Spacer
10380 - Snap Ring
10330 - Shaft
10380 - Fan
10379 - Core
10327 - Armature Winding
10328 - Commutator (Slip Rings)
10368 - Stator Winding
10A378 - Sheild
N811303-S36 - Output Stud
10A318 - Rectifier Plate
10374 - Diode
108301 - Rectifier
N80676-S30 - Nut
10A304 - Bearing, rear
10260 - Brush Holder Assembly
10A349 - Rear End Frame
N805910-S101 - Case Bolt
10A383 - Output Adapter (optional)
N805481-S36 - Output Nut
10316 - Voltage Regulator Assembly Motorcraft GR821
N805911-S7M - Regulator Screw
N807423-S36 - Brush Screw
10563 - Screw Cap
N807749-S - Bearing Cap

The rear case & stator can be rotated (clocked) to 3 positions relative to the front case to orient the connectors for ease of installation. EITHER: the pulley must be removed first so the rotor can remain in the rear case while the stator is pushed back out of the front case; OR: the regulator must be removed, the brushes pinned, and then reinstalled after the case has been clocked. Since the stator wires are attached to the rectifier, and the rectifier is attached to the output stud, the stator MUST move with the rear case at all times.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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Alternator3Gvr.JPG | Hits: 29217 | Size: 65.74 KB | Posted on: 12/31/10 | Link to this image


3G (Ford 3rd-Generation Alternator) Voltage Regulator F1DZ10C359A Motorcraft GR821 (similar to 2G)

.

All are wired similarly to this:


A terminal: receives battery power for Field and senses battery voltage
S terminal: detects Stator output (~1/2 B voltage) for ALT indicator control
I terminal: detects key-on to energize voltage regulator, and provides ground to ALT indicator in dash
A brush screw: connected directly to A terminal (thus to Battery positive) and Field winding
F brush screw: ground side of Rotor's Field winding, receives varying ground signal from regulator

S (out): sends ~1/2 B voltage to regulator S terminal to indicate normal operation & suppress the indicator
B terminal: sends current to the vehicle & battery
Mounting points: provide ground reference to voltage regulator, and ground path for Field input & Stator output.

. . .

An alternator receives mechanical energy from the crankshaft through the belt (FEAD) and converts it to electrical energy, which is used to supply the vehicle's demands and charge the battery. To begin, the alternator must be supplied with electricity to generate the electromagnetic field within the Rotor windings. This is the main distinction between an alternator and a dynamo (which has permanent magnets & needs no electricity to begin working). An alternator might consume ~13A to produce 130A (net) output.

The case of the alternator must provide a solid ground to the voltage regulator & the stator, so its mounting points must be clean, and the engine block must be well-grounded to the battery (-) post.

. .

The voltage regulator detects the key on through the I (Indicator) terminal, and uses battery power from the A terminal (via the brushes, & the slip rings) to produce a magnetic field within the Rotor's Field windings.

The strength of this field is determined by the voltage regulator, based on the voltage between the A terminal and the alternator's case, which must be grounded to the battery (-) post to provide an accurate reading. The regulator controls output voltage by varying the ground signal applied to the F brush. Externally grounding this brush forces the alternator to its maximum output at that RPM (typically near 18V).

The pulley transfers mechanical energy from the belt to the Rotor's shaft (supported by 2 bearings), which causes the magnetic field to rotate through the Stator's 3 stationary windings in the case. This moving magnetic field induces an alternating current within the Stator windings, proportional to the strength of the field.

The Stator's alternating current passes through the Rectifier (a matrix of 6 or 12 high-current diodes) which lowers the voltage slightly and converts the AC to rough DC. The output is smoothed primarily by the battery (which is why a battery MUST be connected when the engine is running), and also by a capacitor (condenser) within the rectifier.

One of the Stator's windings is connected to the S terminal so the voltage regulator can monitor the alternator output.

The fans (integrated onto each end of the rotor) centrifugally force hot air out of each end of the case, causing cooler air to flow into the sides, cooling the stator & rotor.

The rear case & stator can be rotated (clocked) to 3 positions relative to the front case to orient the connectors for ease of installation. EITHER: the pulley must be removed first so the rotor can remain in the rear case while the stator is pushed back out of the front case; OR: the regulator must be removed, the brushes pinned, and then reinstalled after the case has been clocked. Since the stator wires are attached to the rectifier, and the rectifier is attached to the output stud, the stator MUST move with the rear case at all times.

Most failure modes result in the voltage regulator grounding the I terminal, which illuminates the ALT bulb in the dash. To maintain normal operation in the event of bulb failure (open I circuit), a 1/4W or larger 300 Ohm resistor must be wired in parallel with the bulb (typically a common 194).

130amp (2 holes between each pair of front ribs) Donors:
'94-95 Mustang 5.0L
'94-00 Mustang 3.8L
'94-97 Thunderbird/Cougar 3.8L
'90-95 Taurus/Sable 3.8L
'93-99 Taurus/Sable 3.0L
'95-98 Windstar 3.8L/3.0L
'91-94 Lincoln Continental 3.8L
'92-97 F-series (optional)
'92-96 E-series (optional)

There are at least 3 mounting bolt configurations among those, so check your mounting bracket carefully before choosing a donor.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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3G.jpg | Hits: 1017 | Size: 63.72 KB | Posted on: 11/1/21 | Link to this image


'94-96 F-series/Bronco 3G Wiring (2G similar)

.

All 2G & 3G alternators are wired similarly to this:


A terminal: receives battery power for Field and senses battery voltage
S terminal: detects Stator output (~1/2 B voltage) for ALT indicator control
I terminal: detects key-on to energize voltage regulator, and provides ground to ALT indicator in dash
A brush screw: connected directly to A terminal (thus to Battery positive) and Field winding
F brush screw: ground side of Rotor's Field winding, receives varying ground signal from regulator

S (out): sends ~1/2 B voltage to regulator S terminal to indicate normal operation & suppress the indicator
B terminal: sends current to the vehicle & battery
Mounting points: provide ground reference to voltage regulator, and ground path for Field input & Stator output.

. . .

An alternator receives mechanical energy from the crankshaft through the belt (FEAD) and converts it to electrical energy, which is used to supply the vehicle's demands and charge the battery. To begin, the alternator must be supplied with electricity to generate the electromagnetic field within the Rotor windings. This is the main distinction between an alternator and a dynamo (which has permanent magnets & needs no electricity to begin working). An alternator might consume ~13A to produce 130A (net) output.

The case of the alternator must provide a solid ground to the voltage regulator & the stator, so its mounting points must be clean, and the engine block must be well-grounded to the battery (-) post.

. .

The voltage regulator (Motorcraft GR821 similar to 2G) detects the key on through the I (Indicator) terminal, and uses battery power from the A terminal (via the brushes, & the slip rings) to produce a magnetic field within the Rotor's Field windings.

The strength of this field is determined by the voltage regulator, based on the voltage between the A terminal and the alternator's case, which must be grounded to the battery (-) post to provide an accurate reading. The regulator controls output voltage by varying the ground signal applied to the F brush. Externally grounding this brush forces the alternator to its maximum output at that RPM (typically near 18V).

The pulley transfers mechanical energy from the belt to the Rotor's shaft (supported by 2 bearings), which causes the magnetic field to rotate through the Stator's 3 stationary windings in the case. This moving magnetic field induces an alternating current within the Stator windings, proportional to the strength of the field.

The Stator's alternating current passes through the Rectifier (a matrix of 6 or 12 high-current diodes) which lowers the voltage slightly and converts the AC to rough DC. The output is smoothed primarily by the battery (which is why a battery MUST be connected when the engine is running), and also by a capacitor (condenser) within the rectifier.

One of the Stator's windings is connected to the S terminal so the voltage regulator can monitor the alternator output.

The fans (integrated onto each end of the rotor) centrifugally force hot air out of each end of the case, causing cooler air to flow into the sides, cooling the stator & rotor.

The rear case & stator can be rotated (clocked) to 3 positions relative to the front case to orient the connectors for ease of installation. EITHER: the pulley must be removed first so the rotor can remain in the rear case while the stator is pushed back out of the front case; OR: the regulator must be removed, the brushes pinned, and then reinstalled after the case has been clocked. Since the stator wires are attached to the rectifier, and the rectifier is attached to the output stud, the stator MUST move with the rear case at all times.

Most failure modes result in the voltage regulator grounding the I terminal, which illuminates the ALT bulb in the dash. To maintain normal operation in the event of bulb failure (open I circuit), a 1/4W or larger 300 Ohm resistor must be wired in parallel with the bulb (typically a common 194).

130amp (2 holes between each pair of front ribs) Donors:
'94-95 Mustang 5.0L
'94-00 Mustang 3.8L
'94-97 Thunderbird/Cougar 3.8L
'90-95 Taurus/Sable 3.8L
'93-99 Taurus/Sable 3.0L
'95-98 Windstar 3.8L/3.0L
'91-94 Lincoln Continental 3.8L
'92-97 F-series (optional)
'92-96 E-series (optional)

There are at least 3 mounting bolt configurations among those, so check your mounting bracket carefully before choosing a donor.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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Generator-Output.jpg | Hits: 915 | Size: 75.26 KB | Posted on: 3/13/21 | Link to this image


Alternator Output Curves for Ford 3G (95A & 130A), Leece-Neville 165A, and Mitsubishi 215A



Use an inductive meter rated for at least 200A DC around the heavy Bk/Or alternator output wire while a heavy load is applied to the battery, and the engine is near 2000 RPM.



Preliminary checks to the charging system should be made regardless of the fault condition. These checks include:
1. Check battery posts and cable terminals for clean and tight connections. Clean the posts and the cables to ensure good electrical contact.

2. Check for secure connections at the generator output, generator case, regulator, and engine ground. Also check the connection at the load distribution point (starter relay).
. . .
3. Check the generator belt and belt tension.

4. Check the fuses/fuse links and wiring to the generator to ensure that they are not burned or damaged. This condition, resulting in an open circuit or high resistance, can cause erratic or intermittent charging system concerns.

5. Check the battery voltage. If the voltage is less than 12.3 volts with the engine and all accessories off, charge battery before proceeding.

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Alternator2Gex.jpg | Hits: 11724 | Size: 51.23 KB | Posted on: 12/29/10 | Link to this image


2G Alternator Exploded

This type produces ~60~100A, and was typically used on early fuel-injected engines from the mid-80s to the early 90s. The 2G is famous for catching fire, usually due to the poor design of the 3-pin connector at the rectifier. The result of these fires was the development of a new Electrical Grease (not to be confused with Dielectric Grease). The greatest value of a 2G is as scrap metal.

All are wired similarly to this:



An alternator (generator) receives mechanical energy from the crankshaft through the belt (FEAD) and converts it to electrical energy, which is used to supply the vehicle's demands and charge the battery. To begin, the alternator must be supplied with electricity to generate the electromagnetic field within the Rotor windings. This is the main distinction between an alternator and a dynamo (which has permanent magnets & needs no electricity to begin working). An alternator might consume ~13A to produce 130A (net) output.

The case of the alternator must provide a solid ground to the voltage regulator & the stator, so its mounting points must be clean, and the engine block must be well-grounded to the battery (-) post.

The voltage regulator Motorcraft GR821 detects the key on through the I (Indicator) terminal, and uses battery power from the A terminal (via the brushes, & the slip rings) to produce a magnetic field within the Rotor's Field windings.

The strength of this field is determined by the voltage regulator, based on the voltage between the A terminal and the alternator's case, which must be grounded to the battery (-) post to provide an accurate reading. The regulator controls output voltage by varying the ground signal applied to the F brush. Externally grounding this brush forces the alternator to its maximum output at that RPM (typically near 18V).

The pulley transfers mechanical energy from the belt to the Rotor's shaft (supported by 2 bearings), which causes the magnetic field to rotate through the Stator's 3 windings. This moving magnetic field induces an alternating current within the Stator windings, proportional to the strength of the field.

The Stator's alternating current passes through the Rectifier which lowers the voltage slightly and converts the AC to rough DC. The output is smoothed primarily by the battery (which is why a battery MUST be connected when the engine is running), and also by a capacitor (condenser) within the rectifier.

One of the Stator's windings is connected to the S terminal so the voltage regulator can monitor the alternator output. Voltage on this circuit is roughly 1/2 battery voltage.

The fan pulls hot air out of the case, causing cooler air to flow into the rear. The rear case & stator can be rotated (clocked) to 3 positions relative to the front case to orient the connectors for ease of installation.

Most failure modes result in the voltage regulator grounding the I terminal, which illuminates the ALT bulb in the dash. To maintain normal operation in the event of bulb failure (open I circuit), a 300 Ohm resistor must be wired in parallel with the bulb (typically a common 194).



See also:
. . . .

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Alternator1G.JPG | Hits: 9625 | Size: 76.98 KB | Posted on: 11/30/11 | Link to this image


Ford 1G (1st Generation) Alternator

This type produces ~40~100A, and was used from the early 70s to the early 90s. The 1G is rugged & basically reliable, but weak by modern alternator standards. On early vehicles with few electrical accessories, it was usually adequate.

An alternator (generator) receives mechanical energy from the crankshaft through the belt (FEAD) and converts it to electrical energy, which is used to supply the vehicle's demands and charge the battery. To begin, the alternator must be supplied with electricity to generate the electromagnetic field within the Rotor windings. This is the main distinction between an alternator and a dynamo (which has permanent magnets & needs no electricity to begin working). An alternator might consume ~13A to produce 130A (net) output.

The case of the alternator must provide a solid ground to the rectifier & the stator, so its mounting points must be clean, and the engine block must be well-grounded to the battery (-) post. An auxilliary ground cable (minimum 10ga; preferrably 6ga) directly from the battery (-) clamp to the alternator case will help.

The voltage regulator detects the key on through the I (Indicator) terminal, and uses battery power from the A terminal (via the brushes, & the slip rings) to produce a magnetic field within the Rotor's Field windings.

The strength of this field is determined by the voltage regulator, based on the voltage between the A terminal and the alternator's case, which must be grounded to the battery (-) post to provide an accurate reading. The regulator controls output voltage by varying the power signal applied to the F brush. Externally jumpering this circuit to 12V forces the alternator to its maximum output at that RPM (typically near 18V). ALL LATER ALTERNATORS regulate ground to the field.

The pulley (10344) transfers mechanical energy from the belt to the Rotor's (10330) shaft (10335, supported by 2 bearings), which causes the magnetic field to rotate through the Stator's (10336) 3 windings. This moving magnetic field induces an alternating current within the Stator windings, proportional to the strength of the field.

The Stator's (10336) alternating current passes through the Rectifier (10304) which lowers the voltage slightly and converts the AC to rough DC. The output is smoothed primarily by the battery (which is why a battery MUST be connected when the engine is running), and also by a capacitor (condenser, 18832 or 18827) within the case.

One of the Stator's windings is connected to the S terminal so the voltage regulator can monitor the alternator output. Voltage on this circuit is roughly 1/2 battery voltage. The S terminal may also be used for a 6V electric choke heater on a carburetor.

The fan pulls hot air out of the case, causing cooler air to flow into the rear. The rear case & stator can be rotated (clocked) to 4 positions relative to the front case to orient the connectors for ease of installation.

See also:
. . . .

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Radio Bond Straps reduce RFI (radio-frequency interference) in the radio and other electronic systems on the truck. Corrosion at points of contact will reduce the effectiveness of these components.



The hood strap is riveted to the hinge on all but Lightning. Diesels do not use the core support strap. 7.5Ls use core support & body straps on both sides.

See also:
. .
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one the main electrical pathway, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

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'87-95 RFI Capacitor Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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These are the names of the components of the '92-96 starter system.

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . .

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'92-96 Battery & Starter Wiring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Cable Assembly 14B060
2 Cable Assembly (Lightning) 14B060
3 To Heated Oxygen Sensor for 5.0L/5.8L Under 8500, 4.9L, 5.8L (Lightning), and 7.5L F-450 Only
4 Bolt 56558-S 26-34 N-m (19-25 Ft-Lb)
5 Starter Motor 11002 (E9SZ11002BRM SA769ARM with auto trans; F2TZ11002ARM SA793RM with manual trans)
6 Nut and Washer Assembly N805403-S100 10-14 N-m (8-10 Ft-Lb)
7 Screw and Washer Assembly 390926-S36 for All Gas, Except 7.5L Manual Transmission which use Screw 389883-S36 19-26 N-m (14-20 Ft-Lb)
8 Starter Motor Relay Assembly 11450 MotorCraft SW1951C (E9TZ-11450-B)
9 Nut and Washer Assembly 381561-S36 7-9 N-m (60-82 In-Lb)
10 Screw N803991-S36 4-6 N-m (35-49 In-Lb)
11 Cap 14A396
12 Star Washer 34943-S36
13 Existing Gas Vapor Tube 9S286
14 Battery 10655 (BXT-65-850)
15 Nut 33799-S2 (Auto Transmission) 11-16 N-m (8-12 Ft-Lb)
16 Cover-Starter Solenoid (Red) 11N087
17 Stud N806925-S36MG
18 Chassis Ground 14301 Motorcraft F2TZ-14301-B Negative Battery Cable with body, frame, & block grounds
19 Bolt for 14301 Frame Ground 390158-S36 11-16 N-m (8-12 Ft-Lb)
20 Heated Oxygen Sensor Wire Assembly 9F472
21 Exhaust Pipe 5A212
22 Wire Assembly 12A690
23 Starter Solenoid Heat Shield (5.0L/5.8L Only) (Part of 11002)
24 Frame 5005
25 To Engine Ground 14301
26 Nut N621906-S36
27 Body Grounds 12A581
28 Engine Block 6010
29 Engine Bay Harness to Power Distribution Center 12A581
30 Alternator Harness 14305

POS = heavy Red circuit from battery Positive to starter relay, starter solenoid, alternator, and power distribution center
NEG = heavy Black circuit from battery Negative to frame, block, and fender
SOL = medium Red circuit from starter relay to starter solenoid

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one the main electrical pathway, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

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Optional Battery Tray Details

For typical battery details, see:


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Early Starter Wiring ('87-91 similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

10655 - Battery (Group 65)
11002 - Starter motor
11450 - Starter relay (E9TZ-11450-B)
12581 - Wiring harness, starter relay to alternator & fuse block
14300 - Cable, battery to starter relay (positive, RED, clamp-to-eye)
14301 - Cable, battery to frame & block (ground, BLACK, clamp-to-tab-to-eye)
14431 - Cable, starter relay to starter (black, eye-to-eye)

See also:
. . . . . . .
. . . . .
. . . . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one the main electrical pathway, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

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Starter Relays
The new style is a direct replacement for, AND a significant improvement on, the old one (E9TZ-11450-B).

See also:
. . . . .

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Starter, (Late) Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PMGR)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Motor Diameter: 3 in.
Current Draw Under Normal Load: 140-200A
Current Draw Under Maximum Load: 800A
Current Draw Under No Load: 60-80A
Normal Engine Cranking Speed: 200-250 RPM
Min. Stall Torque @ 5 Volts: 11 ft-lbs
Brush Length (New): 0.66 in. Standard-RX155

'92-97 automatic = MotorCraft SA-769ARM (F7SZ-11002-AARM)
'92-97 manual = MotorCraft SA-793RM (F2TZ-11002-ARM)
Starter Relay = MotorCraft SW1951C (E9TZ-11450-B)


. . . . . . . . . .

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FSA 93B35 Starter Solenoid Inspection & Possible Replacement
Check the Ford website &/or the NHTSA to see if your VIN is affected.

1992 / 1993 F-Series Trucks (equipped with 4.9, 5.8, or 7.5L engines) & Certain 1992 Broncos (4.9L engine) All Equipped with Manual Transmissions - Starter Solenoid Inspection & Possible Replacement

Note that this is a safety recall, and any included vehicle will be repaired free, no matter how old it is, how long the owner waits to present it for repair, or how many times it has been sold.

Ford Motor Company is providing a no-charge Service Program to owners of certain 1992 Broncos and 1992 and 1993 F-Series Trucks to inspect the starter assembly, and, if necessary, replace the starter solenoid.

Reason For This Program
The starter solenoid may continue to keep the starter engaged after the ignition key is returned from the "start" position. This may result in overheating of the starter as it continues to run with the engine. The starter typically will not crank on subsequent attempts, causing a "No-Start" condition.

No Charge Service
At no charge to you, your dealer will inspect the starter and, if necessary, replace the starter solenoid. This program is available through 36 month / 36,000 mile Bumper-to-Bumper warranty, or through December 31, 1994, whichever provides greater coverage.

How Long Will It Take?
The time needed for this service is one (1) hour. However, due to service scheduling times, your dealer may need your truck for one full working day. Call your dealer and ask for a service date and if parts are in stock. If your dealer does not have the parts in stock, they can be ordered before scheduling your service date. Parts would be expected to arrive within a week. When you bring your truck in, give the dealer this letter. If you misplace this letter, your dealer will still do the work, free of charge.

Refunds
If you paid to have this service done before the date of this letter, Ford is offering a full refund. For the refund, please show your paid work-order to your Ford dealer.

Affected Vehicles: 1992-93 F-Series / Bronco Trucks

Parts Purge
F2TZ-11002-A Starters built prior to 12/16/92 MOTORCRAFT (SA 793)
F2TZ-11002-C Starters built prior to 12/16/92 MOTORCRAFT (SA 795)
E9OZ-11390-B Solenoids MOTORCRAFT (SW 2207)

If claim is processed electronically via DOES II, use return code "GB" otherwise complete a separate FPS-340 claims for these parts. Indicate reason "J" on claims. In remarks section write "returned per Recall 93B35". Returns must be received within thirty (30) days from the date of this recall. Returns are restricted to the subject parts. Parts returned must have been purchased from FCSD in accordance with Policy and Procedure Bulletin 4000. Credit for parts and prepaid freight costs will be issued.

Technical Instructions

WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE PERFORMING ANY SERVICE, MAKE SURE THE RED SOLENOID SAFETY CAP IN INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REINSTALLED AFTER SERVICE.

Inspection
Starter assemblies with a production date equal to or less than 2M15 (December 15, 1992) are affected by this program. The red starter assembly label will have the date the assembly was made as illustrated below:

Motorcraft
11000 12V USA
F2TUAA or F2TUCA 2M15B (Build Date)

2 = calendar year, i.e. 1992, 3 = 1993
M = month (December), L = November, A = January
15 = day
B = shift on which starter was assembled

WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE PERFORMING ANY SERVICE. MAKE SURE THE RED SOLENOID SAFETY CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMNAL AND IS REINSTALLED AFTER SERVICE.

Removal

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the starter cable and push-on connector from the starter solenoid.
CAUTION: WHEN DISCONNECTING HARDSHELL CONNECTOR AT S-TERMINAL, GRASP THE PLASTIC SHELL AND PULL OFF. DO NOT PULL ON WIRE. BE CAREFUL TO PULL STRAIGHT OFF TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE CONNECTION AND S-TERMINAL. IF ANY PART OF THE CONNECTION IS DAMAGED, REPLACE THE DAMAGED COMPONENTS.
4. NOTE: The 5.8L engine starter has a heat shield. Carefully SLIDE the heat shield away from the mounting bolts before removing the starter assembly.
5. Remove upper and lower bolts, and remove starter assembly from engine.
6. Remove starter solenoid from starter assembly.

Installation

1. Position solenoid to housing, ensuring that the solenoid plunger is attached through the drive lever. Bottom solenoid terminal (M) should have a metal strip attached to it. Tighten solenoid bolts to 5-10 N-m (45-89 in-lb).
2. Attach motor connector to solenoid (bottom terminal). Tighten nut to 9-14 N-m (80-124 in-lb).
3. Position starter motor to engine and install upper and lower bolts finger-tight.
4. Tighten upper and lower bolts to 20-27 N-m (15-20 ft-lb).
5. Be sure that solenoid heat shield (5.8L engine) is properly positioned over solenoid. Connect starter solenoid connector. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a noticeable click or detent.
6. Install starter cable nut to starter terminal. Tighten to 9-14 N-m (80-124 in-lb).
7. Replace solenoid safety cap.
8. Lower vehicle to floor and connect battery negative cable.

Labor
Inspect Starter Only 0.3 Hrs.
Inspect and replace starter solenoid 0.6 Hrs.

F3PZ-11390-A Starter Solenoid Dealer Price $12.31

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Early Starter (pre-'92) Exploded

The top pole shoe is welded to a sprung lever so that the lever rests up. When power is applied to the main terminal, the upper field coil pulls the shoe & lever down, pushing the drive gear out & then operating the contactor to energize the other coils, causing the motor to spin.

This style of starter cannot cause itself to run-on since it doesn't normally have power. Run-on with this starter can only be caused by the starter relay, which can stay on due to an internal fault, a wiring fault, a failed NSS, a failed ignition switch, or a switch actuator fault in the steering column.

11002 - Starter motor assembly (E4TZ-11002-A)
11005 - Armature assembly (D7AZ-11005-A)
11036 - Washer
11049 - Rear plate
11052 - Bushing, rear (D3AZ-11052-A)
11057 - Brush Set (E4PZ-11057-A)
11060 - Cover
11061 - Brush holder
11062 - Insulator
11065 - Cover gasket
11067 - Lever with attached pole shoe
11082 - Field windings
11091 - Screw, case
11103 - Spring
11105 - Coil cover, inner
11106 - Coil cover, outer
11130 - Nosepiece kit
11135 - Spring
11222 - Snap ring
11223 - Collar
11350 - Drive gear kit (E2PZ-11350-A)
11415 - Screw, pole shoe (#4 Phillips drive, countersunk)
11A120 - Insulator
11A143 - Insulator
11K013 - Bushing, front (D3AZ-11052-A)
14300 - Cable, starter relay to starter

'80-91 4.9L/5.0L automatic = MotorCraft SA-734BRM
'80-91 5.0L manual = MotorCraft SA-738ARM
'80-91 5.8L automatic = MotorCraft SA-709BRM
other / unknown = MotorCraft SAV-738ARM

See also:
. .

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Early Starter (Swinging Pole Shoe)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'80-86 Auxilliary Battery
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Ford's instructions for wiring modifications are in this caption:



EOTZ-10732-A left battery tray assembly
EOTZ-10769-A left battery tray support



Not compatible with underhood tool box:



The "Accessory Relay" is a continuous-duty relay, which may LOOK like the starter relay, but is built to tolerate being continuously ON.

. . .

In the factory wiring, the Wh/Pu wire is hot in RUN only, so the Aux.Batt. gets charged whenever the engine runs, but is isolated from any drain all other times. With the addition of the switch, the operator can choose to jump-start a weak main battery using the aux., but a new 0-4ga cable must be added (bypassing the fusible link & junction stud) to handle that kind of current. He can also choose to disable the aux. battery relay in the ISOLATE position. The AUTO position preserves the factory behavior.

The 5A fuse protects the switch circuit and provides JUMP power to the aux relay.

The 2-color LED (in the Isolator diagram) only works if the key is in RUN. It glows red if the aux battery is weaker than the main, regardless of the isolator switch position (indicating a problem with the aux batt charging). It glows green if the main battery is weaker than the aux (indicating that JUMP is needed). It doesn't glow if both batteries are charged, or if both are dead.



See also:

. . . .

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Compression Test
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1. Ensure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at proper level and battery is properly charged. Operate vehicle until engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all spark plugs.

2. Set throttle plate in wide-open position.

3. Install a compression gauge such as Rotunda Compression Tester 059-00009 or equivalent in No. 1 cylinder.

4. Install an auxiliary starter switch in starting circuit. With ignition switch in the OFF position, and using auxiliary starter switch, crank engine at least five compression strokes and record highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.

5. Repeat test on each cylinder cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

Test Conclusion:
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is above 75 percent of the highest. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.

If one or more cylinders read low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of XO-20W50-QR (ESR-M2C179-A) or equivalent engine oil on top of the pistons in the low reading cylinders. Repeat compression pressure check on these cylinders.

1. If compression improves considerably, piston rings are at fault.

2. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating poorly.

3. If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on pistons does not increase compression, cause may be a cylinder head gasket leak between cylinders. Engine oil and/or coolant in cylinders could result from this problem.

It is recommended the Compression Pressure Limit Chart be used when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading number is at least 75 percent of the highest reading.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
See also: Dissolved Gas Test Kit
. . . . . .

See this page for vacuum gauge instructions. I recommend something like this:

-Clickit

If compression is too HIGH, it's probably due to deposits in the combustion chambers. Removing them is cheap & easy.

With the engine FULLY warmed-up to operating temp, and at high rev (~1500-2500RPM), drip or spray clean (distilled is best) water into the throttle. That's pretty much it. You want to get JUST enough water going in to make the engine cough, but NOT anywhere close to enough to hydraulic a piston. That's why the RPM has to be far above idle - so there's enough airflow to keep a puddle from forming anywhere, and then suddenly splashing into a chamber.

Just like when a head gasket leaks & allows coolant into a cylinder, the water starts to evaporate when it hits the hot metal. But when the piston compresses it, it liquefies again and is forced into the pores of any carbon deposits. When the cylinder fires, the water explodes into steam, blasting the carbon off. If there WAS any in your engine, you should see the exhaust turn dark initially, and then get whiter as you run out of carbon in the engine.

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'93-95 Lighting PCV

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PCV Hoses for EFI engines, EXCEPT MAF
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The rubber hose connecting the hard plastic PCV vent tube (F5TE6C324AA) to the nipple on the oil filler neck of the valve cover can be replaced with F7UZ-6A664-AA, as can the PCV valve lower hose (E9UB-6A866-AA) which connects to the elbow (6762, Dorman 47046) in the valve cover grommet (6K780/E7AZ6A892A, Standard GV27, Dorman 42049). The straight hose shown at the breather end can be replaced with common 5/8" Fuel/PCV/Emissions hose to connect the hard plastic elbow that fits FA1047, but later trucks use a rubber elbow that can be replaced with Dorman 47028 for the smooth barb on FA1603.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article to learn how each one benefits the engine.

The change from the early V8s' routing to the revised routing is described here:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/Reroute_PVC.pdf
If that link doesn't work:
.

The PCV System -

No matter how new or well-made an engine is, the piston rings (or seals in a Wankel rotary) can't capture 100% of the combustion gases. There will always be some blow-by, resulting in contamination of the crankcase oil. These contaminants most often include water (the ideal result of combustion, which remains a vapor at normal engine temperature), fuel (fuel molecules are smaller than oil molecules, so they pass by the rings more easily), soot (which turns the oil black), and various acidic gases. To reduce the accumulation of these contaminants (which rapidly affects the oil's viscosity & effectiveness), the crankcase must be positively ventilated. This means forcing a draft of air through the crankcase to carry these vapors out. But rather than venting them under the hood, the vapors are contained within the PCV system and routed into the intake system to be burned in the engine.

Since the system is powered by negative pressure (engine vacuum), I'm going to describe it in reverse:

The PCV system ends with a tube (6A866) carrying the vapor-laden (& often oil-laden) airstream into the intake manifold to be burned. This tube comes from the PCV valve (5.8L Motorcraft EV68C/E7TZ6A666A, 5.0L Motorcraft EV-140/E7TZ6A666A, 4.9L Motorcraft EV49B/D8TZ6A666A/D8TZ6A666B), which regulates the quantity of air "leaking" into the intake, and also contains a one-way valve to prevent backfires in the intake from burning into or over-pressurizing the crankcase. (The valve or the tube may include another port where the fuel tank vapor system is combined.) The PCV valve is installed either in an oil separator chamber outside the crankcase, or in a valve cover which often contains an oil separator, or sometimes midway in the tube to make access/replacement easier. The valve must be replaced regularly because its mechanism is lightweight (generally gravity-operated), and is easily fouled by normal engine operation. The oil separator is necessary to prevent crankcase oil from entering the intake system, fouling sensors, coating the valve stems (which accelerates wear on the valve guides), fouling the spark plugs, or increasing HC emissions. Because most oil separators are not designed to be easily serviced (and rarely if ever appear on any maintenance list), their benefit is typically lost on high-mileage vehicles, and the inside of the intake manifold suffers. The airflow thru the separator comes from the crankcase, where undesirable vapors have boiled out of the oil. On engines with 2 banks of cylinders (V or flat), the airflow is generally into one valve cover, down thru the oil drainback journals in that head, into the crankcase in the block, up the other drainbacks, & into the 2nd valve cover. On inline engines, the flow is most commonly in one end of the valve cover & out the other, but some have the oil separator on the side of the block near the pan so flow is down from the valve cover to the crankcase. The airstream enters the valve cover either thru a dedicated nipple on the cover ('87-96 4.9L Motorcraft FA1118), or thru a vented oil filler cap. In either case, the airstream originates with a fresh-air "breather" filter, usually inside the engine air cleaner housing ('80-87 all carb engines Motorcraft FA675; '84-96 all EFI engines Motorcraft FA1603), but sometimes simply mounted directly on a valve cover.



Several failures are common in the PCV system; the most-often noticed is oil contamination in the intake &/or the air filter housing. Oil in the intake generally indicates that the oil separator has become restricted, which might be caused by gelling of the oil from moisture buildup due to insufficient PCV flow because the valve hasn't been changed on-schedule. But infrequent oil changes or overheating, or any combination of these conditions can contribute to oil in the intake. Oil in the air filter housing is almost exclusively caused by reverse-flow in the fresh-air tube, which is often the result of worn/stuck rings, hardened exhaust valve stem seals, or a ruptured head gasket. But it may also result from low-quality oil, incorrect viscosity oil, or excessive oil. An often-overlooked failure in the PCV system is cracking of the hoses, resulting in vacuum leaks & contamination of the engine oil. All vulcanized rubber (tires, hoses, bushings, etc.) ages & deteriorates, so it must be replaced as needed. A symptom that shocks many people is the presence of light-colored foamy oil residue inside the filler cap, or in the valve covers. And while it's possible that this effect can be produced by severe engine damage (like coolant in the crankcase), it's much more likely that it's caused simply by the vehicle being used only for short trips, during which time the engine never fully heats up to boil the water out of the oil. The moisture naturally condenses in the coolest parts of the crankcase, which is the thin upper sheet metal valve covers & filler neck. It may also be noted in the top of the dipstick, where the water may also cause rust.

MAF 4.9L inlet hose:


Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

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'87-96 Air Cleaners Motorcraft FA1046 K&N 33-2023
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Top 2 are MAP (speed-density) '87-95; bottom 2 are MAF '94-96.
Left 2 are 4.9L I6 (and 7.5L V8 ); right 2 are 5.0L/5.8L V8.

9B659 Air Cleaner Outlet Tube F6TZ9B659AD
9C658 is actually 2 pieces for 5.0L/5.8L.

V8 MAF . . . . . . . . . 4.9L MAF
.

Lightnings are V8 MAP regardless of year, but use an intake plenum more like a car's.



The best air filter is either MotorCraft, Purolator (probably the OEM for Ford/MotorCraft filters), Wix, or K&N (when properly oiled). This one was still spotlessly clean on the clean side:


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'93-95 Lightning Air Filter
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

6 F6TZ9647FA Bracket

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Fresh-Air Ducts & Air Filter for 7.5L
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Early EFI Air Filter
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:
.

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'93 Diesel (IDI, non-PowerStroke) Air Cleaner
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Spark Plug DIagnosis
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The inside back cover of any Haynes manual is much better than this B&W diagram.



5.8L MotorCraft SP-415, SP-501
5.0L MotorCraft SP-450, SP-502
4.9L MotorCraft SP-435

Spark plug & coil wires should measure ~7KOhm/foot from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the terminal in the boot that slips over the spark plug.



Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:
. . . . . .

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Distributor '87-91, Open Bowl, External Push-Start ICM (Gray)

The distributor-mounted TFI-IV Ignition Control Module (ICM) is known to suffer from overheating, and commonly fails. A special (but cheap) tool is required to change it, and the distributor may have to be rotated or lifted, which requires resetting the base timing as described on the VECI label under the hood. For the complete testing procedure, see Ch.5 (usually Sec.5 or 7) in the Haynes manual:



TFI-IV (DI) E-core Coil Specs:
Ignition coil primary resistance ( to - input terminals): 0.3-1.0 Ohms
Ignition coil secondary resistance (output post to either input): 8-11.5 KOhms
Ignition coil core to any terminal: >10 KOhm (open circuit)

In addition to the areas described in the top Right pane, the entire plastic interior of the cap should be coated with a thin film of silicone dielectric grease to prevent condensation from causing spark leak.





Distributor O-ring: R25 (A219) 1 5/16" ID 1 9/16" OD 1/8" Section

See also:

. . . . . . .
_______________________________________________________
Distributor Installation

I recommend keeping a trickle charger on the battery all the time until you get it running. The Battery Tender (~$40 @ Sam's Club or Costco in 2006) or Battery Tender Jr. (~$35 on Amazon in 2006) are among the better ones.

The V8 timing marks are stamped into the edge of the harmonic balancer; I6 are bolted to the timing cover on the passenger side, between the smog pump & HB. Use steel wool, a wire brush, or sandpaper if necessary to clean the the marks so they're clearly visible. Use a socket & breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft if necessary. The V8 timing pointer is bolted to the timing cover; I6 is a tiny notch stamped into the lip of the HB.



Remove the #1 spark plug (V8 RHF) and rotate the crankshaft until the pointer aligns with 0. Use a hose to blow into the spark plug hole - if it's easy, and you hear the air coming out the throttle body, rotate the crank 1 full rev back to 0, and recheck. If it's difficult to blow air in (#1 compression stroke), and ALL the air comes out around the threads, drop a plastic drinking straw into the hole so it rests on the piston and rock the crankshaft gently to make sure you have the piston EXACTLY at top dead-center (straw as high as possible). Then re-check the pointer. If it's slightly off, adjust it so it's dead-on 0. If it's WAY off, replace the balancer.

Set the cap into place on the distributor body and make a mark on the bowl directly under the #1 tower (should be molded into the cap). Remove the cap, install the rotor on the dist shaft, & rotate the rotor so it points at the mark. With the dist bore clean & a light coat of clean motor oil on it & the dist O-ring, drop the dist into the bore so its connector points toward the wiring harness connector (or the vacuum advance is in a clear area). You'll have to wiggle the rotor to get the gear teeth to align AND the oil pump shaft to fit into the bottom of the dist. shaft. When it drops all the way down, check if the dist body can be rotated so your #1 tower mark moves to both sides of the rotor tip. If not, raise it, & reset the rotor so it's centered in the mark's range of adjustment. Then loosely install the dist clamp & bolt so the dist can't rise, but it can be rotated with some effort.

Next, read this caption & check for timing chain/gear slop:



Replacing the gears is a BIG job that's best done by removing the engine, so don't dive into it on a whim. But if it's worn out, the engine will never run right until it IS replaced. Only you can decide since you're the one looking at it & paying for it. When you're finished, set the HB to 0 and the dist with your mark directly under the rotor tip.

Finally, install the cap & wires EXACTLY as shown in this diagram:

.

After checking everything (connectors, fluid levels, battery charge, rags hanging in the fan blades, etc.), put the key in RUN and use a starter relay trigger to crank the engine while you GENTLY work the distributor back & forth until it fires up. When it does, use either a timing light (SPOUT pulled) or vacuum gauge to set the timing close while it warms up. Then follow the instructions on the VECI label to set timing properly.

Distributor Clampdown Bolt 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft


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Spark Plug Wire Testing



For push-start TVI-IV ignition system diagnosis (~'84-93 F-series/Bronco), use the diagnositic procedure in Haynes Ch.5 (Sec.5 or 7, depending on edition):



For CCD TFI-IV ('93-96 F/Bronco), see this caption:



In addition to the tip of the rotor, the entire plastic interior of the cap should be coated with a thin film of silicone dielectric grease to prevent condensation from causing spark leak. Do not apply silicone to the rotor spring, the cap's carbon button, or the cap's metal terminals.

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:
. . . .

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Distributor '92-96 (smallblock V8 shown; 4.9L similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Smallblock distributors use Hold-Down Clamp Motorcraft DZ410
V8s use Motorcraft Distributor (5.8L) DA2065; (5.0L AT) DA2064; (5.0L MT) DA2063, Cap DH411B, & Rotor DR374B
4.9Ls use Motorcraft Distributor DA2061, PIP/Stator DU50, Cap DH434, & Rotor DR375A
For installation, scroll to the bottom of this caption.

TFI-IV (DI) E-core Coil Specs:
Ignition coil primary resistance (POS to NEG input terminals): 0.3-1.0 Ohms
Ignition coil secondary resistance (output post to either input): 8-11.5 KOhms
Ignition coil E-core to any terminal: >10 KOhm (open circuit)
V8s use Coil Motorcraft DG470
4.9Ls use Coil MotorCraft DG434, but I use a junkyard V8 coil on mine with no apparent problems
Both seem to be replaced now by Ford F7PZ-12029-AA
RFI Capacitor F6UZ-18832-AA ~$8~11 at dealership



Spark plug & coil wires should measure ~7KOhm/foot from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the terminal in the boot that slips over the spark plug.

.

Whenever a high-tension ignition wire is removed from a spark plug, the distributor cap, or the coil to perform a maintenance operation, Silicone Dielectric Compound must be applied to the boot before reconnection. Using a small clean screwdriver, apply a thin layer of Silicone Dielectric Compound on the entire interior surface of the boot. Do not apply compound to metal terminals.

'87-91 similar


NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will NOT correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Distributor Hold-Down Bolts 23-34 N-m, 17-25 Lb-Ft
Stator Assembly Screws 1.7-4.0 N-m, 15-35 In-Lb
Spark Plugs, 4.9L 20-27 N-m, 15-20 Lb-Ft
Spark Plugs (except 4.9L) 9-20 N-m, 7-15 Lb-Ft
ICM-to-Heatsink Screws 1.7-4.0 N-m, 15-35 In-Lb
ICM/Heatsink-to-Left Fender Screws 9-14 N-m, 80-124 In-Lb
Distributor Cap Hold-down Screws 2.0-2.6 N-m, 18-23 In-Lb
Octane Rod Retaining Screw 1.7-4.0 N-m, 15-35 In-Lb
Distributor Adapter to Base 2.8-4.0 N-m, 25-35 In-Lb
Armature Retaining Screws 1.7-4.0 N-m, 15-35 In-Lb
Taperset Hex Body 68 N-m, 50 Lb-Ft

The distributor ignition system has two distinct configurations. In the first configuration (~'85-91), the ICM is mounted on the distributor and has three pins which plug into the hall effect Camshaft Position Sensor--CMP (PIP sensor) inside the distributor. This configuration is called distributor mounted ICM. The ICM on the second ('92-96), remote mount ICM, is not mounted on the distributor but in another location within the engine compartment. Within the '92-96 range, there are additional distinctions for push-start vs. CCD ignition; and in V8s, flat-tappet (w/cast iron gear) vs. roller lifter (F4TZ-12127-A w/steel gear).

The components of both configurations consist of the ICM, distributor, CMP (hall effect PIP) sensor, and E-core ignition coil. The distributor used on the distributor mounted ICM configuration is called a Universal Distributor and has an opening in it through which the pins of the ICM plug into the CMP (PIP) sensor. On the remote mount configuration, a Sealed Distributor is used. The CMP (hall effect PIP) sensor is located inside the distributor on both configurations. Note also that there are no mechanisms on either distributor for centrifugal or vacuum advance.

The CMP (hall effect PIP) sensor inside the distributor responds to a rotating metallic shutter on the distributor shaft and produces a digital PIP signal. This signal provides base timing information and is an indication of engine speed (rpm) and position (though NOT cylinder ID). Note that since the shutter is mounted on the distributor shaft, two revolutions of the engine crankshaft are required to fire each spark plug once. This is because the camshaft & distributor rotate at half the crankshaft speed.

The internal circuitry of the ICM will have one of two possible arrangements: push-start (gray; ~'85-93), or computer controlled dwell (CCD) (black; '94-96)). NOTE THAT MOST AFTERMARKET MODULES ARE GRAY, regardless of type or year. If the ICM connector has a R/LB wire between the R/LG & Pk (pin #3), it's push-start (E8DZ-12A297-A or E7DF-12A297-A2A / Motorcraft DY-533 / Standard LX241T); if the wire is Y/Bk, it's CCD (F1PZ-12A297-A or F1SF-12A297-C1A / Motorcraft DY-679). Since these two TFI systems are so significantly different, yet so similar in appearance, parts application problems will inevitably occur. A gray Push Start TFI module will plug right into a CCD system, and vice versa. To make matters worse, parts books are often incorrect on TFI module applications. With the incorrect TFI module installed, the vehicle will run, but drivability problems and DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) will result. For instance, if a gray Push Start TFI module is installed in a CCD system, the computer will not be able to control ignition dwell, and the MIL will illuminate with DTCs for the IDM circuit, as the gray TFI module is incapable of generating an IDM signal to the computer. If a black CCD TFI module is installed in a Push Start system, dwell will remain fixed, since the SPOUT signal duty cycle never changes. If in doubt about which TFI module belongs on a particular vehicle, examine the ignition system wiring for the vehicle. If the wire going to pin #4 on the EEC-IV computer comes directly from pin #4 of the TFI module, it is a CCD system. If not, it is a Push Start system.

The early TFI system, which Ford calls the "Push Start" TFI system, uses a gray TFI module. Originally, the module was mounted on the distributor. In the late '80s, Ford began to relocate it away from the distributor on some vehicles to provide better protection from the effects of engine heat, but system operation remained the same. It uses a Hall effect pickup (stator) in the distributor, which generates a battery voltage, 50% duty cycle square wave, called the PIP signal, to the EEC and to the TFI module. The EEC processes this signal and sends out another battery voltage, 50% duty cycle square wave, called the SPOUT signal, to the TFI module. The SPOUT signal, short for SPark OUTput, is a digital signal generated by the EEC providing spark angle information to the ICM. The SPOUT signal on the push-start system controls only the firing of the coil. The falling edge of the SPOUT signal is ignored. The push-start system allows for increased dwell, or coil ON time, when starting the engine. The ICM on this system determines when to turn the coil ON based upon engine rpm information. The coil is then fired, or turned OFF, whenever a rising edge of a SPOUT signal is encountered. Ignition dwell with the Push Start (gray module) system is controlled by the TFI module alone, and increases with engine rpm. As long as the TFI module is receiving a SPOUT signal, it will fire the coil at the rising edge of that signal (except during engine cranking, when SPOUT is ignored) and the vehicle will run with the amount of timing advance commanded by the EEC. If the TFI module does not receive the SPOUT signal, it will fire the coil at the rising edge of the PIP signal, and the vehicle will run at base timing. This is true on all TFI systems. The start input on pin #4 of the Push-start TFI module is wired into the starter relay trigger circuit, and signals the TFI module that the engine is cranking. When the module sees battery voltage on this circuit, the SPOUT signal is ignored. The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal on a Push Start TFI system comes from the coil negative circuit and is filtered through a 22k ohm resistor to pin #4 on the EEC. The EEC monitors this circuit to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal, and sets DTCs if it sees missing or erratic signals.

The SPOUT signal for the CCD system is same as in the push start except that the falling edge is now used to control the time at which the coil is turned ON. The CCD TFI module still ungrounds (fires) the coil at the rising edge of the SPOUT signal, but now the falling edge of the SPOUT signal (which had no meaning to the Push Start TFI module) is used by the CCD TFI module to ground the coil (to begin dwell). The PIP signal remains the same 50% duty cycle square wave, but SPOUT signal duty cycle varies according to how much dwell is desired by the EEC. The coil ON duration (dwell) for this system is thus entirely controlled by the SPOUT signal. The ICM does not internally determine when to turn the coil ON as it does on the push start system. It responds directly to the SPOUT signal it receives. Pin #4 on the CCD TFI module, which was the start circuit input on the Push Start TFI module, is now the IDM signal, sent directly from the TFI module to pin #4 on the EEC. This signal is still a filtered (low voltage) version of the ignition primary waveform, but is filtered internally in the TFI module rather than through an external resistor. There isn't any start circuit input to the CCD TFI module; the module infers engine cranking from a low rpm input from the PIP signal.

In the case that the SPOUT signal circuit opens from the PCM (as during tune-ups), the CCD ICM will use the PIP signal to fire the coil. This results in a fixed spark angle and fixed dwell.
NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20 degrees BTDC plus or minus 3 degrees.

The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) circuit of the CCD system is also known as the Filtered Tachometer Output (FTO), but it is not actually used as an output to the tachometer.

See also:
Automotive Terms & Abbreviations
. . . . .
____________________________________________________________________________


The ignition diagnostic procedure in the Haynes manual (even those that claim to apply to '96 trucks) is strictly for the push-start system, shown on the LEFT of the diagram above. See this link for push-start diagnosis. The procedure below is strictly for the CCD system, shown on the RIGHT.

CCD Testing:

AA1 WERE TESTS IN EEC-IV QUICK TEST COMPLETED
- Were all tests accomplished according to EEC-IV Quick Test procedures?

Yes: GO to AA2.
No: REFER to Section 2A, Diagnostic Routines.

AA2 CHECK FOR GOOD BATTERY
- Is battery voltage greater than 12 volts DC with the key on?

Yes: GO to AA3.
No: SERVICE battery.

AA3 CHECK FOR SPARK AT COIL DURING CRANK
- Using an Air Gap Spark Tester or a Neon Bulb Spark Tester or equivalent, check for spark during crank at coil wire.
- Was spark present during crank?
Yes: GO to AA9.
No: GO to AA4.

AA4 CHECK FOR TFI POWER
- Key off.
- Connect TFI diagnostic harness to EEC breakout box, connect BAT- lead to negative post of battery, and connect TFI module tee to TFI module and vehicle harness.
- Do not connect BAT lead of TFI diagnostic harness to battery.
CAUTION: Do not connect EEC processor to EEC breakout box when it is used with TFI diagnostic harness.
- Make sure PIP OPEN/NORMAL/SPOUT OPEN switch on TFI diagnostic harness is in the NORMAL position.
- Use TFI overlay on breakout box.
- DVOM on 20 volt DC scale.
- Key on.
- Measure voltage between J5 (TFI PWR) and J7 (BAT-) at breakout box.
- Is voltage greater than 10 volts DC?
Yes: GO to AA5.
No: SERVICE power open to TFI module in harness or connector. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA5 CHECK FOR PIP SIGNAL
- DVOM on 20 volt AC scale.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between J15 (PIP) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?

Yes: GO to AA6.
No: GO to AA11.

AA6 CHECK FOR SPOUT SIGNAL
- Crank engine and measure voltage between J10 (SPOUT) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?

Yes: GO to AA7.
No: GO to AA18.

AA7 CHECK VBAT AT COIL
- Key off.
- Connect diagnostic harness coil tee to vehicle harness; do not connect diagnostic harness to coil.
- Key on.
- DVOM on 20 volt DC scale.
- Measure voltage between J2 (VBAT C) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is voltage greater than 10 volts DC?
Yes: GO to AA8.
No: SERVICE power open to coil in harness or connector. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA8 CHECK FOR COIL SIGNAL
- Key off.
- Connect BAT lead of TFI diagnostic harness to positive post of battery.
- Connect 12 volt incandescent test lamp between J1 (BAT ) and J3 (COIL-).
- Key on.
- Crank engine.
- Did test lamp flash brightly?
Yes: REPLACE coil. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GO to AA27.

AA9 CHECK FOR SPARK AT ALL WIRES
- Using an Air Gap Spark Tester or Neon Bulb Spark Tester or equivalent, check for spark at all wires.
- Was spark present at all plugs during crank?

Yes: GO to AA10.
No: SERVICE distributor cap, rotor, plugs or plug wires. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA10 CHECK PLUGS
- Remove and check plugs for damage, wear, carbon deposits and proper plug gap.
- Are plugs OK?

Yes: Not an Ignition problem, REFER to Section 2A Diagnostic Routines.
No: SERVICE plugs. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA11 CHECK FOR PIP POWER AT PIP SENSOR
- Connect diagnostic harness PIP sensor tee to PIP sensor and vehicle harness.
- DVOM on 20 volt DC scale.
- Key on.
- Measure voltage between: J22 (PIP PWR) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J27 (PIP PWR) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is voltage greater than 10 volts DC?

Yes: GO to AA12.
No: SERVICE power to PIP sensor in harness or connector. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA12 CHECK FOR PIP FROM PIP SENSOR
- Turn switch on diagnostic cable to PIP OPEN.
- DVOM on 20 volt AC scale.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between: J34 (PIP A) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J13 (PIP) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?
Yes: GO to AA13.
No: CHECK PIP sensor wiring. If OK, REPLACE PIP sensor.

REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA13 CHECK PIP WITH TFI DISCONNECTED
- Key off.
- Turn switch on diagnostic cable to NORMAL.
- Disconnect diagnostic harness TFI module tee from TFI module only; leave TFI module tee connected to vehicle harness.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between: J34 (PIP A) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J13 (PIP) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?
Yes: REPLACE TFI module. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GO to AA14.

AA14 CHECK PIP WITH EEC PROCESSOR DISCONNECTED
- Disconnect EEC processor.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between: J34 (PIP A) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J13 (PIP) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?
Yes: REPLACE EEC processor. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GO to AA15.

AA15 CHECK PIP A TO EEC PROCESSOR FOR SHORT HIGH
- Key off.
- Disconnect diagnostic harness PIP sensor tee from PIP sensor only; leave PIP sensor tee connected to vehicle harness.
- DVOM on 20 volt DC scale.
- Key on.
- Measure voltage between: J34 (PIP A) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J13 (PIP) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector- Is voltage less than 0.5 volt DC?

Yes: For Systems B and F:
GO to AA16.
For all other Systems:
SERVICE PIP between PIP sensor and EEC processor or TFI module in harness for short low. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: For Systems B and F:
SERVICE PIP A between PIP sensor and EEC processor in harness for short high. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
For all other Systems:
SERVICE PIP between PIP sensor and EEC processor or TFI module in harness for short high. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA16 CHECK PIP B TO TFI FOR SHORT HIGH
- Key on.
- Measure voltage between J41 (PIP B) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is the voltage less than 0.5 volt DC?
Yes: GO to AA17.
No: SERVICE PIP B between PIP sensor and TFI module in harness for short high. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA17 CHECK PIP IN HARNESS FOR SHORT LOW
- Key off.
- DVOM on 20K ohm scale.
- Measure resistance between J41 (PIP B) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is resistance greater than 10K ohms?
Yes: SERVICE PIP A between PIP sensor and EEC processor in harness for short low. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: SERVICE PIP B between PIP sensor and TFI module in harness for short low. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA18 CHECK FOR SPOUT IN HARNESS
- Turn switch to SPOUT OPEN position on diagnostic harness.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between J10 (SPOUT) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?

NOTE: Engine may start; continue diagnostics.
Yes: REPLACE TFI module. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GO to AA19.

AA19 CHECK FOR SPOUT HIGH
- Key off.
- Disconnect diagnostic harness TFI module tee from TFI module only; leave TFI module tee connected to vehicle harness.
- Turn switch to NORMAL on diagnostic harness.
- DVOM on 20 volt DC scale.
- Measure voltage between J10 (SPOUT) and J7 (BAT-), with key on.
- Is voltage less than 0.5 volt DC?

Yes: GO to AA21.
No: GO to AA20.

AA20 CHECK FOR SPOUT SHORT HIGH IN HARNESS
- Key off.
- Disconnect EEC processor.
- Measure voltage between J10 (SPOUT) and J7 (BAT-) with key on.
- Is voltage less than 0.5 volt DC?

Yes: GO to AA23.
No: SERVICE SPOUT between EEC processor and TFI module in harness for short high. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA21 CHECK FOR SPOUT SHORT LOW
- Key off.
- DVOM on 20K ohm scale.
- Measure resistance between J10 (SPOUT) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is resistance greater than 10K ohms?

Yes: GO to AA23.
No: GO to AA22.

AA22 CHECK FOR SPOUT SHORT LOW IN HARNESS
- Disconnect EEC processor.
- Measure resistance between J10 (SPOUT) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is resistance greater than 10K ohms?

Yes: GO to AA23.
No: SERVICE SPOUT between EEC processor and TFI module in harness for short low. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA23 CHECK FOR PIP OPEN IN HARNESS
- Key off.
- DVOM on 20 volt AC scale.
- Disconnect EEC processor.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between Pin 56 (PIP) of EEC processor harness connector and J7 (BAT-).
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?
Yes: GO to AA24.
No: GO to AA26.

AA24 CHECK IGN GND AT EEC PROCESSOR
- Key off.
- Reconnect diagnostic harness TFI module tee to TFI module.
- DVOM on 200 ohm scale.
- Measure resistance between Pin 16 (IGN GND) of EEC processor harness connector and J7 (BAT-) at the breakout box.
- Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes: REPLACE EEC processor. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GO to AA25.

AA25 CHECK FOR IGN GND AT PIP SENSOR
- Connect diagnostic harness PIP sensor tee to PIP sensor and vehicle harness.
- Measure resistance between: J35 (IGN GND) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J19 (IGN GND) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes: SERVICE IGN GND between EEC processor and PIP sensor in harness for open. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: SERVICE IGN GND wire or REPLACE PIP sensor. IGN GND open in PIP sensor. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA26 CHECK PIP A AT PIP SENSOR
- Turn switch from NORMAL to PIP OPEN position.
- Connect diagnostic harness PIP sensor tee to PIP sensor and vehicle harness.
- Crank engine and measure voltage between: J34 (PIP A) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J13 (PIP) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?
Yes: SERVICE PIP open in harness between EEC module and PIP sensor. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: SERVICE PIP wire or REPLACE PIP sensor. PIP open in PIP sensor. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA27 CHECK FOR COIL- OPEN IN HARNESS
- Key off.
- Disconnect diagnostic harness TFI module tee from TFI module only; leave TFI module tee connected to vehicle harness.
- Disconnect BAT lead of TFI diagnostic harness from battery.
- DVOM on 200 ohm scale.
- Measure the resistance between J3 (COIL-) and J4 (TFI COIL-).
- Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes: GO to AA28.
No: SERVICE open coil- between TFI module and coil in harness. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA28 CHECK FOR COIL- SHORT LOW IN HARNESS
- Key off.
- DVOM on 20K ohm scale.
- Measure resistance between J3 (COIL-) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is resistance greater than 10K ohms?
Yes: GO to AA29.
No: SERVICE coil - short low in harness between coil and TFI module. Coil may be damaged. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA29 CHECK FOR COIL- SHORT HIGH IN HARNESS
- DVOM on 20 volt DC scale.
- Key on.
- Measure voltage between J3 (COIL-) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is voltage less than 5.5 volts DC?
Yes: GO to AA30.
No: SERVICE coil - short high in harness between coil and TFI module. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.

AA30 CHECK GND AT TFI MODULE
- Key off.
- DVOM on 200 ohm scale.
- Measure resistance between J9 (GND) and J7 (BAT-).
- Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes: REPLACE TFI module. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GO to AA31.

AA31 CHECK GND AT PIP SENSOR
- Connect diagnostic harness PIP sensor tee to the PIP sensor and vehicle harness.
- Measure resistance between: J28 (GND) and J7 (BAT-) if 8 pin PIP sensor connector or J26 (GND) and J7 (BAT-) if 4 pin PIP sensor connector.
- Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes: SERVICE open GND in harness between PIP sensor and TFI module. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
No: GND open in PIP sensor or connector. SERVICE GND wire or REPLACE sensor. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory. RERUN Quick Test.
_______________________________________________________
Distributor Installation

I recommend keeping a trickle charger on the battery all the time until you get it running. The Battery Tender (~$40 @ Sam's Club or Costco in 2006) or Battery Tender Jr. (~$35 on Amazon in 2006) are among the better ones.

The V8 timing marks are stamped into the edge of the harmonic balancer; I6 are bolted to the timing cover on the passenger side, between the smog pump & HB. Use steel wool, a wire brush, or sandpaper if necessary to clean the the marks so they're clearly visible. Use a socket & breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft if necessary. The V8 timing pointer is bolted to the timing cover; I6 is a tiny notch stamped into the lip of the HB.

.

If you didn't set the engine to 0°TDC before pulling the distributor, remove the #1 spark plug (V8 RHF) and rotate the crankshaft until the pointer aligns with 0. Use a hose to blow into the spark plug hole - if it's easy, and you hear the air coming out the throttle body, rotate the crank 1 full rev back to 0, and recheck. If it's difficult (#1 compression stroke), and ALL the air comes out around the threads, drop a plastic drinking straw into the hole so it rests on the piston and rock the crankshaft gently to make sure you have the piston EXACTLY at top dead-center (straw as high as possible). Then re-check the pointer. If it's off, adjust it so it's dead-on 0. If the straw falls perceptibly, replace the balancer.

Set the cap into place on the distributor body and make a mark on the bowl directly under the #1 tower (should be molded into the cap). Remove the cap, install the rotor on the dist shaft, & rotate the rotor so it points at the mark. With the dist bore clean & a light coat of clean motor oil on it & the dist O-ring, drop the dist into the bore so its connector points toward the wiring harness connector. You'll have to wiggle the rotor to get the gear teeth to align AND the oil pump shaft to fit into the bottom of the dist. shaft. When it drops all the way down, check if the dist body can be rotated so your mark moves to both sides of the rotor tip. If not, raise it, & reset the rotor so it's centered in the mark's range of adjustment. Then loosely install the dist clamp & bolt so the dist can't rise, but it can be rotated with some effort.

Next, read this caption & check for timing chain/gear slop:



Replacing the gears is a BIG job that's best done by removing the engine, so don't dive into it on a whim. But if it's worn out, the engine will never run right until it IS replaced. Only you can decide since you're the one looking at it & paying for it. When you're finished, set the HB to 0 and the dist with your mark directly under the rotor tip.

Then, install the cap & wires EXACTLY as shown in the appropriate diagram:

.

After checking everything (connectors, fluid levels, battery charge, rags hanging in the fan blades, etc.), put the key in RUN and use a starter relay trigger to crank the engine while you GENTLY work the distributor back & forth until it fires up. When it does, use either a timing light (SPOUT pulled) or vacuum gauge to set the timing close while it warms up.



Then follow the instructions on the VECI label to set timing properly.



Distributor Clampdown Bolt 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft


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I6 Firing Order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
The rectangles on the cap edge are the screws, but the one between 3&5 is actually rounded.
Distributor Clampdown 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft

.

All EFIs (including V8s) should be at 10%uFFFDBTDC. Follow the instructions on the VECI label under the hood.

Spark plug & coil wires should measure ~7KOhm/foot from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the terminal in the boot that slips over the spark plug.
_______________________________________________________
Distributor Installation

I recommend keeping a trickle charger on the battery all the time until you get it running. The Battery Tender (~$40 @ Sam's Club or Costco in 2006) or Battery Tender Jr. (~$35 on Amazon in 2006) are among the better ones.

The V8 timing marks are stamped into the edge of the harmonic balancer; I6 are bolted to the timing cover on the passenger side, between the smog pump & HB. Use steel wool, a wire brush, or sandpaper if necessary to clean the the marks so they're clearly visible. Use a socket & breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft if necessary. The V8 timing pointer is bolted to the timing cover; I6 is a tiny notch stamped into the lip of the HB.



Remove the #1 spark plug (V8 RHF) and rotate the crankshaft until the pointer aligns with 0. Use a hose to blow into the spark plug hole - if it's easy, and you hear the air coming out the throttle body, rotate the crank 1 full rev back to 0, and recheck. If it's difficult to blow air in (#1 compression stroke), and ALL the air comes out around the threads, drop a plastic drinking straw into the hole so it rests on the piston and rock the crankshaft gently to make sure you have the piston EXACTLY at top dead-center (straw as high as possible). Then re-check the pointer. If it's slightly off, adjust it so it's dead-on 0. If it's WAY off, replace the balancer.

Set the cap into place on the distributor body and make a mark on the bowl directly under the #1 tower (should be molded into the cap). Remove the cap, install the rotor on the dist shaft, & rotate the rotor so it points at the mark. With the dist bore clean & a light coat of clean motor oil on it & the dist O-ring, drop the dist into the bore so its connector points toward the wiring harness connector (or the vacuum advance is in a clear area). You'll have to wiggle the rotor to get the gear teeth to align AND the oil pump shaft to fit into the bottom of the dist. shaft. When it drops all the way down, check if the dist body can be rotated so your #1 tower mark moves to both sides of the rotor tip. If not, raise it, & reset the rotor so it's centered in the mark's range of adjustment. Then loosely install the dist clamp & bolt so the dist can't rise, but it can be rotated with some effort.

Next, read this caption & check for timing chain/gear slop:



Replacing the gears is a BIG job that's best done by removing the engine, so don't dive into it on a whim. But if it's worn out, the engine will never run right until it IS replaced. Only you can decide since you're the one looking at it & paying for it. When you're finished, set the HB to 0 and the dist with your mark directly under the rotor tip.

Finally, install the cap & wires EXACTLY as shown in this diagram:

.

After checking everything (connectors, fluid levels, battery charge, rags hanging in the fan blades, etc.), put the key in RUN and use a starter relay trigger to crank the engine while you GENTLY work the distributor back & forth until it fires up. When it does, use either a timing light (SPOUT pulled) or vacuum gauge to set the timing close while it warms up. Then follow the instructions on the VECI label to set timing properly.

Distributor Clampdown Bolt 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft


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4.9L (300ci) I6 Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

UPPER sizes:
8's bolts are 8mm (5/16") drive
9's nuts are 27mm
11's bolts are 9/16" drive
14 & 23 are 11mm (7/16") drive
24 & 25's nuts are 11mm (7/16")
46 & 49's bolts are 11mm (7/16") drive
50 & 52's bolts are 1/2" drive
61 is StandardAX3
74 is 1/2" drive
Smallblock distributors use Hold-Down Clamp Motorcraft DZ410

42 Oil Filter Motorcraft FL-1A
16 Oil Filler Cap Motorcraft EC743
17 PCV Breather Elbow Motorcraft FA1118
56 ECT Ford 9U2Z12A648A; revised sensor MC DY1145
63 & 73 Standard AT155

LOWER sizes:
29 is 13mm drive after '87; 1/2" drive before
14 for auto trans stamped F4TE-6A372-AA

See also:
.

Oil internal engine threads with engine oil, unless the threads require oil or water-resistant sealer.

Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

Oil internal engine threads with engine oil, unless the threads require oil or water-resistant sealer.
. . . . . . TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
. . Item . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N-m . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ft-Lbs
Connecting Rod Nut 55-61 40-45
Cylinder Front Cover 17-24 12-18
Cylinder Head Bolts (Follow bolt tightening sequence during each step) Progressively increase tightness using this sequence:
1st step: tighten all bolts to 67-75 N-m (50-55 ft-lb)
2nd step: tighten all bolts to 82-88 N-m (60-65 ft-lb)
3rd step: tighten all bolts to 94-115 N-m (70-85 ft-lb)
Damper to Crankshaft 177-203 130-150
EGR Valve to Intake Manifold 18-26 13-19
Flywheel to Crankshaft 102-115 75-85
Main Bearing Cap Bolts 82-94 60-70
Manifold to Cylinder Head Intake & Exhaust (Follow bolt tightening sequence) 30-43 22-32
Exhaust Manifold-to-Muffler Inlet Pipe 34-49 25-36
Oil Filter Insert to Cylinder Block 20-48 15-35
Oil Filter to Cylinder Block 1/2 turn after oiled gasket contacts sealing surface
Oil Inlet Tube to Pump 14-20 10-15
Oil Pan Drain Plug 21-33 15-25
Oil Pan to Cylinder Block (Follow bolt tightening sequence) 20-24 15-18
Oil Pump to Cylinder Block 14-20 10-15
Oil Inlet Tube to Main Bearing Cap 30-43 22-32
Pulley to Damper Bolt 48-67 35-50
Rocker Arm Bolt 24-31 17-23
Spark Plug to Cylinder Head 14-20 10-15
Valve Rocker Arm Cover (Follow bolt tightening sequence) 8-14 70-120 (In-Lbs)
Valve Push Rod Cover to Cylinder Block 2-3 18-27 (In-Lbs)
Water Outlet Housing 17-24 12-18
Water Pump to Block/Front Cover 17-24 12-18
Thermactor Pump Pulley to Pump Hub 12-15 110-130 (In-Lbs)
Throttle Body Attaching Nuts 19-27 14-20
Camshaft Thrust Plate to Cylinder Block 16-24 12-18
Distributor Clampdown 24-33 17-25
Intake Manifold Vacuum Fittings 8-13 6-10
Timing Pointer to Front Cover 17-24 12-18
Thermactor Air Manifold to Cylinder Head (Nut and Ferrule Assy.) 19-22 14-16
Thermactor Air Check Valve to Thermactor Air Manifold 22-26 16-19
Pressure Plate and Cover Assy. to Flywheel 27-39 20-29
Alternator/Thermactor Pump Bracket to Engine (all except bottom bolt) 40-55 30-40
Alternator/Thermactor Pump Bracket to Engine (bottom bolt) 53-71 39-53
Alternator Pivot Bolt 53-72 39-53
Thermactor Pump Pivot Bolt 40-55 30-41
Alternator Adjusting Bolt 40-55 30-41
Thermactor Pump Attaching Bolt 40-55 30-40
Air Conditioning Compressor to Mounting Bracket Bolts 24-31 18-23
Power Steering Pump to Mounting Bracket Bolts 40-55 30-40
Power Steering Pump/Air Conditioning Compressor Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolts 40-55 30-40
Power Steering Pump/Air Conditioning Compressor Bracket to Block Bolts and Nuts 55-70 40-50
Fan Blade to Fan Clutch Bolts 16-24 12-18
Fan Clutch to Water Pump 41-135 30-100
Oil Pressure Sender (Left Side Rear of Cylinder Block) 11-24 8-18
Engine Coolant Temperature Sender (Right Side Rear of Cylinder Block) 11-24 8-18

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4.9L Intake Parts

12A697 - air charge temperature (ACT) sensor (intake air temperature/IAT sensor) StandardAX3 ('87-95 only w/MAP)
9424 - lower intake E7TZ9424D
9439 - intake (only) manifold gasket E7TZ9439A; service intake & exhaust gasket
9B989 - throttle position sensor (TPS) F2TZ9B989A, F2TF9B989AA, MotorCraft CX1419, Standard TH76
9C968 - fuel pressure regulator early F4TZ9C968A/CM4763; late YL3Z-9C968-CARM, F5TE9C968BA, F5TZ9C968B, F5TZ9C968BA, Standard PR208, Walker 2551080
9C977 - regulator gasket 87006-S96
9D280 - fuel rail
9E396 - throttle body gasket F5TZ9E936BA, E7TE9E936AA, E7TZ9E936A, E7TE9E936AB, E7TZ9E936A, E7TZ9E936B, Fel-Pro 60846, MAHLE G30944, VICTOR REINZ 711372400
9E926 - throttle body F6PZ9E926DA w/E4OD, F6PZ9E926GA others
9F460 - intake heat shield
9F670 - IAC gasket E7SZ9F670A
9F715 - idle air control (IAC) solenoid valve F2DZ9F715C, Standard AC33, BWD 21927, Standard AC108, Walker 215-2014
9F806 - injector blower manifold ('87-88 only)
9G428 - exhaust valve position (EVP) sensor F2ZZ9G428B MotorCraft CX1464, Standard VP1T, Standard VP1
9H321 - schraeder valve
9H321 - schraeder valve
9H323 - schraeder valve cap
9H486 - plenum gasket E7TZ9H486B
390715-S (WW-161) - plenum stud bolt
390717-S56 (GG-41-A) - heat shield clip

See also:
. . . 9F818 .

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'95 4.9L Engine Wiring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Bond Assembly 19A095
2 Wiring Harness 9D930
3 -- To Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (Part of 9D930)
4 -- To Intake Air Temperature Sensor (Part of 9D930)
5 Wiring Harness 14350
6 Hego Sensor 9F472
7 Oil Pressure Switch 9278
8 Wiring Harness 14289
________________________________
1 -- To Fuel Injector No. 1 (Part of 9D930)
2 -- To Fuel Injector No. 2 (Part of 9D930)
3 -- To Fuel Injector No. 3 (Part of 9D930)
4 -- To Fuel Injector No. 4 (Part of 9D930)
5 -- To Fuel Injector No. 5 (Part of 9D930)
6 -- To Fuel Injector No. 6 (Part of 9D930)
7 Wiring Assembly 9D930
8 -- To Intake Air Temperature Sensor (Part of 9D930)
9 -- To Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (Part of 9D930)
10 -- To Canister Purge (Part of 9D930)
11 -- To Water Temperature Sensor (Part of 9D930)
12 Wiring Assembly 14289
13 -- To TPS (Part of 14289)
14 -- To TAB (Part of 14289)
15 -- To EGR Control (Part of 14289)
16 -- To TAD (Part of 14289)
17 -- To Idle Speed Control (Part of 14289)
18 -- To Ground (Part of 14289)
19 -- To Oil Pressure Sender (Part of 14289)
20 -- To Distributor Pigtail (Part of 14289)
21 -- To E Coil (Part of 14289)
22 -- To Knock Sensor (Part of 14289)
23 -- To A/C Clutch (Part of 14289)
24 -- To Radio Capacitor (Part of 14289)
25 -- To 12A581 Wiring Assembly (Part of 9D930)

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300ci/4.9L Oiling
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Oil is lifted from the pan through the pickup screen & tube (sky blue) into the pump (dark red) which pushes the oil through the filter. The clean high-pressure oil (red) flows to the main galley, from which it flows to the lifter bores, main bearings (and then to the rod bearings via the crankshaft oil journals, not shown), and camshaft bearings. As each lifter (HLA) reaches the bottom of its cam lobe, its bleed hole is exposed to the main galley's high-pressure oil, which fills it (with the help of the internal spring) to adjust out all the lash from that rocker. As the lobe raises the HLA, its bleed hole is blocked, maintaining that adjustment for that stroke. Oil leaks from the top of the HLA into the pushrod and spills into the rocker arm, wetting the rocker fulcrum & valve stem. The front cam bearing leaks oil onto the crankshaft timing gear teeth & cam gear teeth. Spillage from the camshaft bearings and return oil from the head flows into the distributor bushing at low pressure. Splash (windage) from the crankshaft wets the cylinder walls, collecting in the oil rings.

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Hydraulic Lifter Components
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Smallblock Oil Pump

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'87-89 4.9L Injector Blower

Unnecessary dead weight; the motor is prone to rust & seize, and the control relay/timer module (usually mounted on the passenger side behind the fan shroud) is prone to overheat. Either can cause a fire, so the system should be disabled & deleted. That's what Ford did around '90.

. .

Y/LB - hot at all times via Fuse 16
Gy/Y - hot in RUN

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Knock Sensor

Because the design intent was NOT achieved, and the EEC programming failed to filter out spurious signals, the KS should be unplugged and abandoned or removed. It does not improve engine performance, durability, or emissions. And the EEC cannot detect its absence, except during KOER testing.

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5.0L EFI



Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

Throttle linkage cover (not shown) E9TA9E766AA

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5.0L Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

Bore x Stroke: 4.00 x 3.00
Oil Pressure @ 190°F 2KRPM: 275-413kPa (40-60psi)


Firing Order: ('93-back) 15426378; ('94-up) 13726548
.

L#10 Oil Filter Motorcraft FL-1A (w/factory oil cooler Motorcraft FL820S)
L#22 Valve Cover Gasket Set (5.0L & 5.8L) F1ZZ-6584-B; Mahle (OEM) VS50203; Victor VS50203
L#23 Oil Filler Cap Motorcraft EC743
L#26 & R#37 for auto trans stamped F4TE-6A372-AA
L#29 is StandardAX3 ('84-95 w/MAP only)
L#32 T'stat cover Four Seasons 84831; Spectre 42321
L#35&37 heater outlet Motorcraft KT-81
L#40 PCV Grommet Ford E7AZ-6A892-A; Standard GV27; Dorman HELP! 42049
L#78 (left panel) should be relocated from 68 to 67

R#4 Camshaft Gear could be Aluminum with phenolic teeth up to 9/87
R#65 Harmonic Balancer Bolt 5/8'' -18 x 1 3/4''

Oil internal engine threads with engine oil, unless the threads require oil or water-resistant sealer.
Torque Specs:
Camshaft Sprocket Gear to Camshaft: 55-61 N-m, 40-45 lb-ft
Camshaft Thrust Plate to Cylinder Block: 13-16 N-m, 9-12 lb-ft
Connecting Rod Nut: 26-32 N-m, 19-24 lb-ft
Cylinder Front Cover: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Cylinder Head Bolts: Tighten in steps: first to 75-88 N-m, 55-65 lb-ft, then to 88-97 N-m, 65-72 lb-ft
Damper to Crankshaft: 95-122 N-m, 70-90 lb-ft
EGR Valve to Intake Manifold: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Flywheel to Crankshaft: 102-115 N-m, 75-85 lb-ft
Main Bearing Cap Bolts: 82-94 N-m, 60-70 lb-ft
Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head: 32-33 N-m, 23-25 lb-ft
Upper (Plenum) to Lower Intake Manifold: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head: 24-32 N-m, 18-24 lb-ft
Intake Manifold Vacuum Fittings Aluminum: 8-13 N-m, 6-10 lb-ft
Intake Manifold Pipe Fittings Aluminum: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Oil Inlet Tube to Main Bearing Cap: 30-43 N-m, 22-32 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Bracket to Cylinder Block: 44-67 N-m, 30-45 lb-ft
Distributor Clamp Down Motorcraft DZ410: 24-32 N-m, 17-25 lb-ft
Oil Filter Insert to Cylinder Block Adaptor: 28-40 N-m, 20-30 lb-ft
Oil Filter to Adaptor or Cylinder Block: 1/2 turn after oiled gasket contacts sealing surface
Oil Inlet Tube Pump: 14-20 N-m, 10-15 lb-ft
Oil Pan Drain Plug: 21-33 N-m, 15-25 lb-ft
Oil Pan to Cylinder Block (18 Places): 9-14 N-m, 7-10 lb-ft
Oil Pan to Cylinder Block (4 Places): 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Oil Pump to Cylinder Block: 30-43 N-m, 22-32 lb-ft
Pulley to Damper Bolt: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
Rocker Arm Stud/Bolt to Cylinder Head: 24-33 N-m, 18-24 lb-ft
Spark Plug to Cylinder Head: 14-20 N-m, 10-15 lb-ft
Valve Rocker Arm Cover: 16-20 N-m, 11-14 lb-ft
Water Outlet Housing: 13-16 N-m, 9-12 lb-ft
Water Pump to Block/Front Cover: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump and Alternator Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt 3/8-16: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Air Conditioning Compressor to Bracket: 24-31 N-m, 18-22 lb-ft
Power Steering Pump to Bracket: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Holding Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Pivot Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Alternator Short (Attaching) Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Pulley to Pump Hub: 12-15 N-m, 8.5-11 lb-ft
Alternator Long (Pivot) Bolt: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump and Alternator Bracket to Cylinder Head 7/16-14 Bolt: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
A/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump Bracket to Water Pump: 53-72 N-m, 39-53 lb-ft
A/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump Bracket to Head: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
Exhaust Pipe to Manifold: 33-49 N-m, 24-36 lb-ft
Heat Shield, Spark Plug: 16-23 N-m, 12-17 lb-ft
Clutch-to-Fan Bolts: 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Fan and Clutch Assembly-to-Pulley: 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Dipstick Tube Bracket: 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft

See also:


Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

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Smallblock V8 Oiling
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Oil is lifted from the pan (sky blue) through the pickup screen & tube into the pump (dark red) which pushes the oil through the filter. The clean high-pressure oil (red) flows past the pressure port at the LHF of the block to the main galley along the RHS, which feeds the main & camshaft bearings (teal green) & rod bearings via the crankshaft (pink), and the crossover at the back of the block. The crossover supplies each lifter galley. As each lifter (HLA) reaches the bottom of its cam lobe, its bleed hole is exposed to the main galley's high-pressure oil, which fills it (with the help of the internal spring) to adjust out all the lash from that rocker. As the lobe raises the HLA, its bleed hole is blocked, maintaining that adjustment for that stroke. Leakage from each lifter flows up the pushrod to spill onto each rocker & valve guide. Spillage from the camshaft flows over the timing chain at low pressure. NOT SHOWN: some of the pressurized oil from the front cam bearing lubes the distributor bearings. Splash from the cam lobes lubes the distributor gear.

. .
____________________________________________________
SSM# 19462 OASIS MESSAGE :
SOME 1997-2007 E150/F150, 1997-2007 CROWN VIC./GRAND MARQUIS/TOWN CAR, 1997-2004 MUSTANG GT, 1997-1998 T-BIRD/COUGAR AND 2002-2005 EXPLORER/MOUNTAINEER WITH 4.6L 2V ENGINE MAY EXPERIENCE AN ENGINE TICKING OR RATTLE NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE A STUCK TAPPET (HLA). THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE DETERIORATION OF AN AFTERMARKET OIL FILTER. VEHICLES WITH THIS CONDITION HAVE LOW OIL PRESSURE AT ONE CYLINDER HEAD ONLY, WHILE MAIN PRESSURES ARE NORMAL. DISLODGED MATERIAL FROM THE AFTERMARKET OIL FILTER BLOCKS THE CAM CAP OIL PASSAGE, EITHER AT CYLINDER #4 (RIGHT BANK REAR) OR CYLINDER #5 (LEFT BANK FRONT). FORD RECOMMENDS THE USE OF FORD APPROVED FILTERS ONLY. DAMAGE TO ENGINES CAUSED BY AFTERMARKET OIL FILTERS ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.

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5.0L Spark Plug Wire Routing '93-back



Spark plug & coil wires should measure ~7KOhm/foot from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the terminal in the boot that slips over the spark plug.

For '94-up 5.0L & all 5.8L, see this:

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5.8L EFI

Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

Throttle linkage cover (not shown) E9TA9E766AA

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5.8L Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Bore x Stroke: 4.00 x 3.50
Oil Pressure @ 190°F 2KRPM: 275-448kPa (40-65psi)


Firing Order: 13726548


L#11 Oil Filter Motorcraft FL-1A (w/factory oil cooler Motorcraft FL820S)
L#12 Oil Pan Gasket F4TZ-6710-A (Mahle OS32144 rigid, Mahle OS32492 soft)
L#28 Oil Filler Cap Motorcraft EC743
L#29 Valve Cover Gasket Set (5.0L & 5.8L) F1ZZ-6584-B; Mahle (OEM) VS50203; Victor VS50203
L#48 T'stat cover Four Seasons 84831; Spectre 42321
L#50 is StandardAX3 ('88-95 w/MAP only)
L#51 '92-96 Motorcraft KT-81
L#61 PCV Grommet Ford E7AZ-6A892-A; Standard GV27; Dorman HELP! 42049
L#78 should be relocated from 68 to 67

R#45 Rear Main Seal F1TZ-6701-A (Mahle JV1636 PTFE/Teflon)
R#57 Crank Pulley (F2UA-6312-CA, F2UZ-6A312-A, C9AZ-6A312-D)
R#59 Harmonic Balancer Bolt 5/8'' -18 x 1 3/4''

Oil internal engine threads with engine oil, unless the threads require oil or water-resistant sealer.
Torque Specs:
Camshaft Sprocket Gear to Camshaft: 55-61 N-m, 40-45 lb-ft
Camshaft Thrust Plate to Cylinder Block: 13-16 N-m, 9-12 lb-ft
Connecting Rod Nut: 55-61 N-m, 40-45 lb-ft
Cylinder Front Cover: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Cylinder Head Bolts: Tighten in steps: first to 115 N-m, 85 lb-ft, then to 129 N-m, 95 lb-ft, final to 143-151 N-m, 105-112 lb-ft
Damper to Crankshaft: 95-122 N-m, 70-90 lb-ft
EGR Valve to Intake Manifold: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Flywheel to Crankshaft: 102-115 N-m, 75-85 lb-ft
Main Bearing Cap Bolts: 129-142 N-m, 95-105 lb-ft
Intake Manifold Vacuum Fittings Aluminum: 8-13 N-m, 6-10 lb-ft
Intake Manifold Pipe Fittings Aluminum: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head: 32-33 N-m, 23-25 lb-ft
Upper (Plenum) to Lower Intake Manifold: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head: 24-32 N-m, 18-24 lb-ft
Exhaust Pipe to Manifold: 33-49 N-m, 24-36 lb-ft
Dipstick Tube Bracket: 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Heat Shield, Spark Plug: 16-23 N-m, 12-17 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Bracket to Cylinder Block: 44-67 N-m, 30-45 lb-ft
Distributor Clamp Motorcraft DZ410 to Cylinder Block: 24-32 N-m, 17-25 lb-ft
Oil Filter Insert to Cylinder Block Adaptor: 28-40 N-m, 20-30 lb-ft
Oil Filter to Adaptor or Cylinder Block: 1/2 turn after oiled gasket contacts sealing surface
Oil Pump to Cylinder Block: 30-43 N-m, 22-32 lb-ft
Oil Inlet Tube to Pump: 14-20 N-m, 10-15 lb-ft
Oil Inlet Tube to Main Bearing Cap: 30-43 N-m, 22-32 lb-ft
Oil Pan Drain Plug: 21-33 N-m, 15-25 lb-ft
Oil Pan to Cylinder Block (18 Places): 9-14 N-m, 7-10 lb-ft
Oil Pan to Cylinder Block (4 Places): 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Pulley to Damper Bolt: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
Rocker Arm Stud/Bolt to Cylinder Head: 24-33 N-m, 18-24 lb-ft
Spark Plug to Cylinder Head: 14-20 N-m, 10-15 lb-ft
Valve Rocker Arm Cover: 16-20 N-m, 11-14 lb-ft
Water Outlet Housing: 13-16 N-m, 9-12 lb-ft
Water Pump to Block/Front Cover: 17-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Power Steering Pump to Bracket: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump and Alternator Bracket to Cylinder Head 7/16-14 Bolt: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump and Alternator Bracket to Cylinder Head 3/8-16 Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Holding Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Pivot Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Thermactor Pump Pulley to Pump Hub: 12-15 N-m, 8.5-11 lb-ft
Alternator Short (Attaching) Bolt: 41-54 N-m, 30-40 lb-ft
Alternator Long (Pivot) Bolt: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
A/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump Bracket to Head: 54-68 N-m, 40-50 lb-ft
A/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump Bracket to Water Pump: 53-72 N-m, 39-53 lb-ft
Air Conditioning Compressor to Bracket: 24-31 N-m, 18-22 lb-ft
Clutch-to-Fan Bolts: 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft
Fan and Clutch Assembly-to-Pulley: 16-24 N-m, 12-18 lb-ft

See also:
. . . .

Victor (made in USA) gaskets:
Valve covers - VS38300R
Oil pan - OS32492
Intake set - MS15202W
Timing/WP - JV1034

Dayco (made in USA/Mexico) hoses:
Upper - 71317
Lower - 71040
Bypass - 70846

Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

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Typical EFI Vacuum Lines (V8 shown; I6 similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
NOT SHOWN: brake booster hose & check valve, or pre-'93 vacuum cruise servo
To find leaks, use ~3' of garden hose or a mechanic's stethoscope:



For colored hard plastic vacuum lines under the hood:
RED is the Ford standard color (different function in the dash) for manifold vacuum (the MAP, HVAC, VMV, & brake booster are notable exceptions - they're black, but also larger than the colored 5/32" hard lines)
BLACK (5/32" hard plastic only, shown Dk.Gray) is the Ford standard color for checked or reservoir vacuum
PINK is the Ford standard color for TAB (Wh/Or wire)
YELLOW is the Ford standard color (different function in the dash) for TAD (Br wire)
GREEN is the Ford standard color for EGR (Br/Pk wire)
WHITE is the Ford standard color for the fresh/recirc door for the HVAC system

Early 2-port HVAC check valve shown. Most trucks use a 3-port check valve which also connects to the HVAC reservoir.
Early coffee-can reservoir shown; '96-up use a superior molded plastic reservoir (4C3Z9E453AA) which is easy-to-find in JYs and an easy swap.
'94-up MAF engines (MAF was optional '94-95) do not use a MAP sensor.
'96 engines do not use TAB, TAD (no secondary air system), or CANP (not shown); they use VMV (not shown) where the MAP is shown.

MAP sensor is Motorcraft CX-2403 for all engines '87-95 (except '94-95 MAF)

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article to learn how each one benefits the engine.

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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V8 Fuel Rail

See also:

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V8 EFI Intake Parts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Occasionally, V8s will exhibit a vacuum leak due to the plenum gasket (9H486) being sucked in; usually under the plenum (Right side) near the #3 or #7 runners.

383058-S - Bolt, Fuel Rail (B-319-CC)
390093-S - E-ring
390099-S - Screw, Throttle Stop
390249-S2 - Bolt, Plenum (Torx40 BB-637-LB)
56124-S2 - Bolt, Plenum (Hex B-319-LA)
56503-S2 - Bolt, Fuel Rail
56523-S2 - Screw, TB
87006-96 - O-ring, FPR
9229 - O-ring, Injector
9424 - Intake Manifold (Lower 9K461) & Plenum (Upper 9425)
9A538 - Spring, Throttle Lever
9B989 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
9C753 - Spacer, Throttle Shaft
9C754 - Spacer, Throttle Shaft
9C781 - Bushing, Throttle Pushrod
9C834 - Bushing, Throttle Shaft
9C984 - Screw Cover, Base
9C977 - Fuel Pressure Regulator
9C997 - Gasket, FPR
9D280 - Fuel Rail (1985 only)
9D930 - Harness, Fuel Injectors
9F460 - Crash Cover, Plenum Bolts
9F593 - Injector & O-ring
9F670 - Gasket, IAC
9F754 - Fuel Line, Intermediate (1985 only)
9E926 - Throttle Body Assembly
9E936 - Gasket, TB
9F792 - Fuel Rail
9F715 - Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid Valve
9H486 - Gasket, Plenum
9J314 - Crash Cover, Fuel Rail
9J500 - Screw Cover, Cap
9N545 - Spring, Throttle Stop Screw
9S523 - Bushing, Throttle Pushrod
N605773-S100 - Screw, IAC (AB-117-KJ)
N663107-S - E-ring
N802353-S100 - Screw, FPR (AB-130-E)
N803490-S - Screw, Throttle Plate
N800885-S51 - Screw, TPS (AB - 134-E)
Throttle linkage cover (not shown) E9TA9E766AA

See also:
. . . . . . .

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Intakes 1.jpg | Hits: 9360 | Size: 39.52 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


V8 255, 302, 351W, & 400M Intake tightening patterns

EFIs use the same pattern.

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'93-95 Lightning F150 (509A) Option List
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Although indicated here as unique to Lightning: color-keyed bumper & grill were available on XLTSport; HD E4OD was available with diesel; and though the Lightning upholstery was unique to Lightning, all convertible center seat consoles matched the rest of the seat. IDK why the 509A Lightning package is repeated within the list as a unique option.

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Comparison of Lightning F150 (509A) to typical F150
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Lightning 5.8L Vacuum Lines
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
NOT SHOWN: brake booster hose & check valve, HVAC
To find leaks, use ~3' of garden hose or a mechanic's stethoscope:



For colored hard plastic vacuum lines under the hood:
RED is the Ford standard color for manifold vacuum (the MAP is a notable exception - it's black)
BLACK (hard plastic only, shown Dk.Gray) is the Ford standard color for checked or reservoir vacuum
PINK is the Ford standard color for TAB
YELLOW is the Ford standard color for TAD (different function in the dash)
GREEN is the Ford standard color for EGR
WHITE is the Ford standard color for the fresh/recirc door for the HVAC system



Most trucks use a 3-port check valve which also connects to the HVAC reservoir.
Early coffee-can reservoir shown; '94-up use a superior molded plastic reservoir which is easy-to-find in JYs and an easy swap.

MAP sensor is Motorcraft CX-2403

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article to learn how each one benefits the engine.

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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5.8L Lightning

VIN code R

Engine Block Casting Number Decoder

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'93-95 Lightning Intake Plenum & Manifold
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Mech. fuel pump eccentric

To check the timing chain stretch without much disassembly, remove the distributor cap, rotate the engine forward using a socket on the crank bolt (inside the harmonic balancer pulley) and a breaker bar until the timing mark aligns with 0 degrees (TDC). Then carefully rotate it backward JUST until the rotor moves, and read the degrees from the scale.

See also:
. . . . .

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302 exploded.jpg | Hits: 14360 | Size: 49.89 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


302ci Exploded

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351M Exploded

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V8 460 Intake

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460ci Exploded

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FE Engine Block

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'61-63 FE Three-2

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Early V8 Oil Pressure Sender Configurations
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Engine Mounts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Test engine mounts by having an assistant rev the engine slightly with the brake held firmly, alternating between 1st & Reverse, while you watch the mounts with a flashlight &/or mirror. More than 1/4" movement between the block & frame indicates separation or failure. Alternatively, a prybar may be used to lift the block away from the frame.

4.9L, 5.0L, & 5.8L mount-to-block fasteners have 5/8" hex; '85-96 mount-to-frame perch stud is threaded 12mmx1.75 with 18mm nut

Normalize engine mounts by loosening them and, with engine running and brake pedal applied, shifting transmission from NEUTRAL to DRIVE and back to NEUTRAL. Tighten mounting bolts and road test.

WARNING: The electrical power to the air suspension system (if equipped) must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

Neutralizing:
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Loosen, but do not remove, the powertrain/drivetrain mount fasteners.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Move the vehicle in FORWARD and REVERSE 0.6-1.2 meters (2-4 ft). CAUTION: Do not twist or strain the powertrain/drivetrain mounts.
5. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
6. Tighten the powertrain/drivetrain mount fasteners.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Test the system for normal operation.

. . .

See also:
.
Molding your own poly engine mounts

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Choke Heater Tube

The choke housing on the carburetor has a restricted journal to vacuum, which draws air in from the fiber-wrapped heat tube. The tube comes from a fitting on the exhaust manifold connected to a pass-through tube that collects heat from the exhaust. The pass-through is fed with fresh clean air by the tube coming from the top of the carb.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1984-F-150-302-Windsor-2WD-Old-Red-tp8076p25268.html

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'78-86 300ci I6 Air Filter

.

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Air Cleaner for 300ci I6 Carburetor

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300ci Air Cleaner pre-1980

.

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1bbl Carburetor for 300ci I6
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Common problems include:
1) it's a carburetor
2) because of the design of the intake manifold (log), it's impossible to get the correct mixture to all the cylinders; 3&4 will always be richer, and 1&6 will always be leaner
3) having only 2 mounting studs, the gasket compresses on the sides, allowing vacuum leaks at the base
4) the accelerator pump is known to rupture (especially when exposed to backfires, caused by vacuum leaks at the base) causing the carb to constantly leak fuel into the intake, which usually washes the rings out of the engine
5) the electronic system on the feedback version has MANY problems

The "Idle Mis Adjusting Screw" at the bottom of the R panel is actually "...Mix...".



See also:
.

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Fuel Filters for Carburetors

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Bronco Fuel Tank Details for carburetor engines

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'89 Diesel Fuel Lines

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Aluminum Radiator (with plastic tanks & optional ATF cooler)
This diagram shows bottom pin mounts & an angled outlet; Fs & Broncos use side buttress mounts & a horizontal outlet. The 4.9L I6 has the tanks reversed from this diagram.

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

. .

For more info, read the article below that fully explains the cooling system, and this one that explains how to rebuild a plastic-tank radiator at home.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Engine Cooling System
Everything you never wanted to know about engine cooling
Some of this may seem overly simplified, but I'm trying to make it readable by anyone.

1. Internal combustion engines produce heat by burning gasoline, compressed natural gas, alcohol, or diesel in air. In fact: every bit of energy produced by the engine ultimately becomes heat (the simplest form of energy). Since an engine block large enough to dissipate this heat would be too heavy, and since it's not practical to direct sufficient airflow past the engine, a denser fluid than air is needed to carry it away so that the metals don't oxidize & the lubricants don't combust. Water was the early obvious choice because it's cheap & plentiful, but its relatively low boiling point made it less effective than needed. So chemicals were added to raise its boiling point (any mixture of liquids has a higher boiling point & lower freezing point than any single component); specifically, ethylene glycol (a poisonous alcohol with a sweet flavor). Certain other chemicals are added to inhibit corrosion, lubricate the water pump seals, make the coolant bitter so animals don't drink it, give it color for identification, etc. Some of these additives are consumed over time, requiring regular replacement of the coolant mixture. Additionally, the system is sealed to create higher-than-ambient pressure, which also raises the boiling point. The main benefits of a higher boiling point are that the coolant can carry MORE heat (energy) at a lower flow rate, and the coolant isn't lost as fast as with a vented system. Some early water-cooled vehicles with vented systems consumed more water than fuel.



2. But the DISadvantage of a liquid cooling system is that it can prevent the engine from reaching operating temperature. So it needs to be regulated in order to allow the engine to get hot enough to vaporize the fuel, boil contaminants out of the oil, maintain proper clearance in the bearings, etc. The obvious regulator is the thermostat. Its purpose is to restrict flow when the coolant is cold so the engine warms up faster. Virtually all thermostats contain a wax pellet with a calibrated melting point. When the wax melts, it expands, generating a force that overcomes a spring which normally holds the thermostat's valve closed. As the valve opens, coolant rushes past, and the wax may cool, allowing the spring to close the valve again. So the flow will "pulse" as the system warms up. Most t'stats include a weep hole to allow a VERY small flow during warmup so that the engine doesn't overheat before the t'stat gets warm. This weep hole also helps to bleed air from the system. The other regulator is the cooling fan clutch (or relay/PCM/ECT for electric fans). A thermal fan clutch is designed to absorb heat from the radiator & conduct it to a bimetallic coil which operates a lockup mechanism inside a silicone grease bath. When the coil is cold, the clutch is unlocked, allowing the fan to spin slower than the engine & restrict the air moving thru the radiator. As this airstream heats up (due to the engine warming up the coolant), the mechanism links the fan blades to the fan shaft (usually attached to the water pump), which then boosts the airflow thru the radiator. Again, a "pulse" effect can develop under certain conditions. Some early systems without a fan clutch used a flex fan whose blades created very high flow at low RPM, but then flexed forward into a low-flow angle at higher RPM. These were often unacceptably loud, which led to their blades being irregularly spaced to reduce the drone. This irregular blade spacing was carried over into clutched fans, as well as most others, like alternator fans which were noted for "sirening" at certain speeds.



3. Since heat doesn't flow thru liquid fast enough, the liquid must be forced to flow thru the system from the hot area (the engine block & heads) to the heat exchanger (the radiator). The most common method is a belt-driven centrifugal pump, used for it simplicity of design, & general reliability. Most are simply a stamped steel impeller pressed onto a shaft supported by 2 sealed bearings within a cast housing that includes the water inlet from the radiator. Common failures in the water pump include the impeller slipping on the shaft (reducing the flow to almost nothing), erosion of the impeller blades (usually due to corrosion or cavitation; both caused by improper coolant blend), bearing seals leaking (they're drained thru a hole drilled into the housing), bearing noise, or shaft damage from some external failure (like belt failure or collision). The water pump may be embedded in the block (Ford 300ci/4.9L & modular V8s), embedded in the timing cover (Land Rover 3.9L/4.0L/4.2L/4.6L), attached to the timing cover (Ford 302ci/5.0L & Ford 351W/5.8L), forward of the timing cover (many GM smallblock V8s), or remote (certain VWs).



4. In almost all, however, the coolant flow path is virtually the same: coolant drains to the bottom of the radiator where it flows out thru the lower radiator hose to the water pump inlet. The pump then forces the coolant into the block, where it flows around the cylinders to the back of the block. Cutouts in the head gasket regulate where & how much coolant enters the head & returns to the front of the engine. Within the head(s) is where the coolant reaches its highest temperature, which is why all coolant sensors are near the head(s). In V engines, the coolant flows into a crossover journal in the intake manifold before diverging; in straight engines, it diverges from the head either thru the t'stat or into the heater outlet. In either case, this is generally where its temperature is detected by both the sensor for the gauge & by the ECT for the PCM (EEC). Some V engines also have a bypass hose which allows coolant to return directly to the water pump. There may also be a small circuit to the throttle body for de-icing, which typically returns to the radiator upper tank. Coolant that exits the t'stat flows thru the upper radiator hose into the top of the radiator & thru the core where heat is radiated into the airstream. The cool (lower) radiator tank may contain the upstream heat exchanger for the automatic transmission, and the lower radiator hose may contain an orifice which diverts some coolant to the engine oil cooler.


The lower radiator hose flows TOWARD the engine.
The upper hose flows AWAY from the engine.
The heater hose connected to the intake manifold or t-stat outlet flows AWAY from the engine.
The heater hose connected to the water pump flows TO the pump.
The little bypass hose on V8s flows TO the pump.
The metal line on the radiator flows TO the radiator.
Hot coolant flows OUT of the head or intake manifold.

5. In most engines, coolant ALWAYS flows thru the heater core circuit. The outlet for the heater core is beside the t'stat, so the t'stat can never restrict flow to the heater core. This serves 2 purposes: it allows an unrestricted failsafe coolant flow (although the heater core isn't nearly large enough to cool the engine if the radiator becomes restricted), and it allows the cabin to receive heat as soon as it becomes available, irrelevant of the radiator temperature, ambient temp, t'stat, fan, or clutch/relay. Even if the coolant level becomes critically low, the heater circuit will still generally have coolant in it since it takes less coolant to sustain flow within its smaller capacity. In some vehicles, a problem has been recognized in which high engine RPM during warmup can result in excessive pressure within the heater core, resulting in rupture. The fix is to retrofit a slight restriction (an orifice plate) into the circuit upstream of the heater core to limit the flow, and thereby, the pressure. Coolant returning from the heater core is typically routed directly into the water pump. If the heater core fails, it is safe to loop a hose from the outlet directly back to the return indefinitely. It may also be beneficial to occasionally reverse the hoses at the heater core to keep it flushed out. The direction of coolant flow in the heater core is irrelevant for its function, but some side-outlet heater cores can hold air if flow is reversed.

. .

6. As with virtually every substance, coolant (and any trapped air) expands as it is heated by the engine. Up to a limit, this effect is utilized to create the pressure which increases the boiling point. But excess pressure must be vented, without releasing poisonous coolant onto the ground. So a pressure cap is used either on the radiator for a system with a vented overflow tank, or on the "degas bottle" for a fully-pressurized system. The cap has 3 main functions: a) to seal the pressurized portion of the coolant system up to the target pressure; b) to direct the UNpressurized portion of the vented system into the overflow tank; & c) on this type of system, to allow coolant to return from the unpressurized overflow tank into the pressurized system when the system develops a vacuum (during cooldown). This return of vented coolant from the overflow is dependent on the radiator hoses being fairly rigid, either because of their rubber compounds being stiff, or because of internal springs which support their shape. Hoses that are too soft (often due to oil contamination or just age) will simply collapse, preventing the return of lost coolant from the unpressurized overflow tank. A failed cap is a more-common cause for collapsed hoses. It is also dependent on the overflow hose being airtight from the radiator neck vent to the bottom of the overflow tank. Also, the tank itself must be able to contain the vented coolant. These stipulations are some of the reasons for the increasing use of a pressurized tank (degas bottle) which is designed to hold a specific air pocket within the pressurized system. The air creates a spring that allows for coolant expansion without the risk of coolant loss due to venting; even to an overflow tank. Both systems ultimately allow failsafe venting to the ground.

7. Another refinement to the liquid-cooling system is the fan shroud. Often misunderstood as dead weight or an unnecessary safety shield, the shroud performs an integral function in hi-performance lightweight cooling systems. It vastly improves the fan's efficiency at moving air, as well as assisting the fan in BLOCKING airflow during warmup. Some fan shrouds also include vent flaps which open at high vehicle speed to allow extra air to flow thru the corners of the radiator not sufficiently served by the fan blades. Equally (if not more) misunderstood is the bumper valance. Not merely a cosmetic addition to reduce approach angle - on some vehicles, it is critical to engine cooling. The air-damming effect it produces at high speeds results in a slight vacuum under the engine bay which dramatically increases airflow through the radiator. Without the bumper valance, air can strike the front suspension & bounce up into the engine bay, blocking the radiator's airstream. This same effect may be noted if the vehicle is lifted significantly, or if the hood is left open on the safety catch, or if the hood is vented incorrectly for the vehicle's aerodynamic flow.

8. Possibly the latest refinement to the liquid cooling system is the electric cooling fan motor. More controllable than the thermal clutch, the e-fan allows designers to instantly control the airflow thru the radiator & condenser through the PCM's programming. Using any number of relays & resistors to produce any number of speeds (similar to the HVAC blower motor), engine temperature can be much more precisely regulated, at the cost of slightly higher complexity & weight, with slightly lower efficiency (due to the mechanical/electrical/mechanical conversion of energy). E-fan vehicles require a noticeably larger alternator, and some require failsafe cooling programming in the PCM to protect the engine from fan motor failure. E-fans also have an attraction for off-roading since they allow the driver to turn off the fan before fording deep water, thereby reducing the chance of engine or radiator damage. A common misconception is that the e-fan is somehow more fuel-efficient, but it is inherently LESS so.

9. In typical American fashion, coolant is most often referred to by a misnomer: 'antifreeze'. Most of the time, it's preventing BOILING (even in cold weather), so "antiBOIL" would be more-accurate. The antifreeze characteristic is as much a side-effect as a desirable one. But it IS desirable because water alone would freeze in many climates where vehicles are used, and even WITH antifreeze, this danger is still a cause for concern because of water's peculiar characteristic of expanding when freezing. Ice is so strong that it will crack a mountain of the hardest stone, so even a cast iron block doesn't stand a chance. Steel being cheaper than brass, most factory-installed bore plugs are the former. Most aftermarket plugs are the latter, due to its corrosion resistance. Temporarary rubber bore plugs are also available. In some climates, and often for diesels in any climate, some bore plugs are replaced by a block heater; most often with a common plug for 110VAC household power routed to the grille so that it can be plugged into an extension cord overnight.



10. Other than collision, the most common cause for coolant leaks & blockages is corrosion. Corrosion is a natural effect of pure metals & alloys being exposed to water, which naturally absorbs oxygen. It is also caused by dissimilar metals (iron, steel, aluminum, etc.) being in contact with an electrolyte (water with ions), called "Galvanic action". Both of these act continually in varying degrees to eat away at most metal components exposed to the coolant. Pump impeller blades, radiator cores, heater cores, steel pipe nipples, & thermostat housings are susceptible. The results of unchecked corrosion are leaks in the affected parts (usually the thin steel & soft aluminum ones go first) & sedimentation in the radiator, blocking the lower tubes. To combat their effects, various compounds are blended with the coolant. But they don't last forever, especially when the vehicle is NOT operated (stored/abandoned). So regardless of mileage, COOLANT MUST BE CHANGED REGULARLY. And despite its intentionally-misleading name, long-life coolant must be changed on the SAME schedule, if not sooner. The "long-life" terminology only applies to its antifreeze/antiboil characteristics; its corrosion-inhibitors are consumed even faster than standard coolant, making it "short-life" coolant. Another marketing ploy is "ready-mix" coolant, which has gained much popularity over the typical concentrated (half-&-half) coolant previously available. A quick comparison of price (often higher for a gallon of ready-mix than for concentrate) shows that a vehicle requiring 2 gallons of coolant will cost more than twice as much to fill using ready-mix as with concentrate distilled water.
There's a sucker born every minute - don't be one. Buy only normal-life concentrated coolant, and mix it yourself with distilled water to the concentration indicated on the back of the bottle for your climate. Coolant costs $10-15/gal and grocery-store-brand distilled water is generally less than $0.75/gal (thus averaging $6-8/gal). Don't pay $10-18/gal for ready-mix.

11. If you have a leak, don't waste time or contaminate your cooling system with any "trick fixes" like cracking a raw egg or dumping pepper into the radiator. They don't usually work for long (if at all), and they cause problems later after the leaking part is replaced. Just START by replacing the leaky part, and you'll save money, time, & sweat. If you absolutely have to use a temporary fix, use Bar's Stop-Leak, which is a neutralized sawdust tablet.

12. Hoses, Pipes, & Nipples used to connect cooling system components must form airtight, watertight seals, and maintain those seals under a WIDE temperature range (-40 to 250°F), pressure ranging from -5 to 20psig, and decades of exposure to coolant, contamination, engine bay fluids & chemicals, battery acid, road salt, air pollution, rodents & insects, and anything else in the vehicle's environment. Steel pipes & cast-iron nipples (like many water pumps) rust, and that scale can lift the hose away; Copper & Aluminum are typically thin, and can be easily abraded, collapsed, or corrode through; brass is more robust, but still susceptible to corrosion or mechanical damage; and the vulcanized rubber of most hoses can swell, harden, crack, split, delaminate from its reinforcing fibers, degrade from acid exposure, burn from being too close to the exhaust system, or slide off the nipple from poor clamping force. Common aerosol gasket adhesive (CopperCoat, etc.) will protect the nipple from some corrosion and help keep the hose in-place. High-quality stainless hose clamps maintain clamping force over a longer period, and a thin coat of silicone grease on the clamp's inner surface will keep it from adhering to or pinching the hose. For some applications, silicone rubber hoses are available, and they generally last longer than the vehicle (making used hoses a viable option). But the best protection for all these components is to simply change the coolant on-schedule. Use high-quality hoses & replacement parts. Doing so will also reduce its tendency to cavitate at the pump impeller, which actually abrades away the steel.

13. [b]COLOR[/b] When GM introduced its ill-fated (like so many other GM innovations) Dex-Cool coolant, it chose to distinguish its product (thankfully) by using an orange dye, instead of the common green. Both colors are intended to be detectable by UV light for tracing leaks, but Dex-Cool's formula failed for 2 reasons: 1) it contains a compound that is apparently very nutritious for certain bacteria, & 2) the tap water used at many GM factories for coolant mixing contained those bacteria. The resulting slime from the flourishing bacteria created an effective glue, which blocked up the coolant passages in the radiators & heater cores, causing mass overheating for several years. The problem has since been eliminated, but the color remained, causing more confusion. Ford went to a yellow dye (also UV-detectable) to distinguish its bittering agent (& a few other chemical changes), and now some aftermarket coolants contain other colors in an attempt to indicate compatibility with certain OE coolants. The typical result is simply MORE confusion, and the only remedy is to carefully read the labelling, since no standard has yet emerged. Ford offers a quick-reference chart for Service Coolant Usage on this page, along with several other useful PDFs. Many European brands require O.A.T. (organic acid technology) which is a red coolant. Some BMWs (including some Land Rovers) use a blue type. In most cases, common green coolant is the best, and will do everything that needs to be done in any engine, with no side-effects.

14. Radiator Testing:

1) The most basic test of the cooling system is the ability to contain pressure. A simple pump with an appropriate adapter is connected in place of the cap while the engine is cool, and the system is pressurized to the cap's rated pressure while checking for leaks that might be small enough to evaporate from a running (hot) engine before detection. Another adapter can be used to test the cap's actual vent pressure. A cap can't be reliably repaired. A radiator leak AWAY from the tanks can be temporarily plugged by ripping out the fins around the leak, cutting the tube(s), & folding/crimping it shut. The tube can be permanently welded or epoxied shut. In the case of mechanical damage (collision, rock peck, or fan blade contact); if the tube is relatively clean, a patch of thin Aluminum (as from a drink can) can be epoxied over the leak to permanently seal it. Leaks due to internal or external corrosion are not likely to be successfully repaired in any way.



2) Over time, sediments & debris can collect in the radiator, potentially blocking its core tubes. My method for checking is to remove the fan, shroud, & clutch (but NOT the belt - be sure the WP pulley is secure) from the cool engine, wet the radiator fins thoroughly, and start the engine. As it warms, the t'stat will open, allowing a sudden rush of hot water into the radiator. A fog will rise from the fins as the water evaporates off the tubes that are NOT blocked, and they'll dry instantly. Any tubes that remain visibly damp (usually at the bottom) are not flowing. If more than 1/4 of the radiator stays wet, I'd either backflush & retest, or just replace it. Old brass radiators used to be rodded out, but modern Aluminum cores aren't robust enough to tolerate that procedure reliably.

15. MYTHCONCEPTIONS: The worst one (IMO) is that the thermostat is supposed to "slow the coolant down".
No.
Heat transfer is driven by temperature gradient (difference), and the gradient in the heads is around 1,000°F (between the combustion chamber & the coolant). The gradient in the radiator is typically in the 100-150°F range, but never more than 220 (for a fully-warmed-up engine in an arctic climate). So the slower the coolant flow, the hotter it gets, because it'll be picking up heat faster in the engine than it can get rid of in the radiator. If it was supposed to move slowly, there would be no need for a pump pushing it around. Fast-moving coolant cools better, and transfers heat faster. So the myth that removing a thermostat will cause the engine to overheat is absurd. Engines overheat because:
1) there isn't enough coolant in the system (low leaks, air pockets)
2) the coolant isn't moving fast enough (belt, impeller, blockage)
3) the coolant is boiling at too low a temperature (weak mix)
4) there isn't enough pressure in the system to keep the coolant from boiling (cap, high leaks)
5) the radiator can't exchange enough heat out of the coolant (paint, blockage)
6) the fan isn't moving enough air for the radiator to work at the ambient temperature (low speed in hot weather, fan clutch/motor, lack of a shroud, mud, leaves, flattened fins)
7) the engine is running badly, causing it to produce too much heat (lean mix, advanced timing, overloading)
If your engine was running hot, and you removed the t'stat and it ran HOTTER, it's because the real problem is still there, and without the t'stat, the pressure inside the heads is lower, allowing the coolant to boil more easily. When there are steam pockets in the heads, heat transfer slows down (because steam can't absorb as much heat as liquid coolant), causing that heat to remain in the head, which drives the temperature up.

A common misconception (misnomer) is that coolant spraying out or the sound of boiling means the engine has overheated. Not necessarily. "Overheating" refers to the temperature at which the engine becomes permanently damaged. An engine can get VERY hot, lose coolant or boil the coolant, and NOT be overheated. If the coolant isn't strong enough, or if the cap isn't holding pressure, or if the system contains too much air, the coolant can boil, causing a pressure spike that can spray coolant out. But boiling actually carries a LOT of heat away from the engine, so it's a form of protection from overheating.

Another common mistake is to turn off an (apparently) overheated engine and immediately refill the cooling system before restarting it. That can destroy an engine; even one that hasn't overheated yet. The thermal shock of starting a hot engine (whose thermostat is wide-open) and pumping a radiator-full of cold water through it can warp the heads or crack the block. Assuming the pressure has ALREADY VENTED, there are 2 correct procedures for cooling a hot engine:
1) With the engine off, open the hood & allow the engine to cool down by ambient air. This takes the longest, which is why it's the safest - there's no sudden temperature change to warp the metal. (Aluminum is ~13x more susceptible to warping than cast iron or steel, but cast iron is ~3x more susceptible to cracking.)
2) With the engine off, collect some replacement water or coolant. Start the engine and SLOWLY pour in the cold liquid, allowing it to mix with the hot liquid still in the system. (If the system is dry, stop, and use procedure 1.) If the thermostat closes before the radiator is full (no flow in the radiator), shut the engine off until it reopens. Spare coolant should be stored in the engine bay (especially in vehicles with known coolant leaks) so that it will be hot enough to pour in immediately.

The last one is that popping the top on a hot coolant system can cause it to explode. THAT'S TRUE! The sudden drop in pressure can allow all the hot coolant in the hot engine (about 1.5 gal) to boil (vaporize) almost instantly, pushing the hot coolant in the radiator & hoses out the radiator neck, where it bounces off the open hood and onto the sucker who pulled the cap off. It has been known to cause blindness, in addition to life-threatening burns. If you MUST remove the cap from a hot system, use a HEAVY water-resistant cloth (thick plastic bag first, then folded towel on top) to block any spray, and prevent liquid or steam from touching your skin. Remember steam is invisible and hot enough to instantly remove flesh; the fog you can see is much cooler, and not nearly as dangerous, although it suggests the presence of steam. But it's always a better idea to just let it cool off.

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SmallblockCooling.jpg | Hits: 12668 | Size: 32.36 KB | Posted on: 1/25/05 | Link to this image


Coolant flow for smallblock V-8s. The arrow exiting the top comes from the thermostat & goes to the radiator. The arrow entering the bottom comes from the radiator & goes into the water pump. The small channel shown from the top going forward & down to the WP is the thermostat bypass hose. The radiator, overflow tank, heater core, throttle body heater, freeze plugs, & oil cooler are not shown. For those, see the NEXT several diagrams, and the relevant links in their captions.

See also:
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Engine Cooling System
Everything you never wanted to know about engine cooling
Some of this may seem overly simplified, but I'm trying to make it readable by anyone.

1. Internal combustion engines produce heat by burning gasoline, compressed natural gas, alcohol, or diesel in air. In fact: every bit of energy produced by the engine ultimately becomes heat (the simplest form of energy). Since an engine block large enough to dissipate this heat would be too heavy, and since it's not practical to direct sufficient airflow past the engine, a denser fluid than air is needed to carry it away so that the metals don't oxidize & the lubricants don't combust. Water was the early obvious choice because it's cheap & plentiful, but its relatively low boiling point made it less effective than needed. So chemicals were added to raise its boiling point (any mixture of liquids has a higher boiling point & lower freezing point than any single component); specifically, ethylene glycol (a poisonous alcohol with a sweet flavor). Certain other chemicals are added to inhibit corrosion, lubricate the water pump seals, make the coolant bitter so animals don't drink it, give it color for identification, etc. Some of these additives are consumed over time, requiring regular replacement of the coolant mixture. Additionally, the system is sealed to create higher-than-ambient pressure, which also raises the boiling point. The main benefits of a higher boiling point are that the coolant can carry MORE heat (energy) at a lower flow rate, and the coolant isn't lost as fast as with a vented system. Some early water-cooled vehicles with vented systems consumed more water than fuel.



2. But the DISadvantage of a liquid cooling system is that it can prevent the engine from reaching operating temperature. So it needs to be regulated in order to allow the engine to get hot enough to vaporize the fuel, boil contaminants out of the oil, maintain proper clearance in the bearings, etc. The obvious regulator is the thermostat. Its purpose is to restrict flow when the coolant is cold so the engine warms up faster (making it more part of the PCV system than of the cooling system). Virtually all thermostats contain a wax pellet with a calibrated melting point. When the wax melts, it expands, generating a force that overcomes a spring which normally holds the thermostat's valve closed. As the valve opens, coolant rushes past, and the wax may cool, allowing the spring to close the valve again. So the flow will "pulse" as the system warms up. Most t'stats include a weep hole to allow a VERY small flow during warmup so that the engine doesn't overheat before the t'stat gets warm. This weep hole also helps to bleed air from the system. The other regulator is the cooling fan clutch (or relay/PCM/ECT for electric fans). A thermal fan clutch is designed to absorb heat from the radiator & conduct it to a bimetallic coil which operates a lockup mechanism inside a silicone grease bath. When the coil is cold, the clutch is unlocked, allowing the fan to spin slower than the engine & restrict the air moving thru the radiator. As this airstream heats up (due to the engine warming up the coolant), the mechanism links the fan blades to the fan shaft (usually attached to the water pump), which then boosts the airflow thru the radiator. Again, a "pulse" effect can develop under certain conditions. Some early systems without a fan clutch used a flex fan whose blades created very high flow at low RPM, but then flexed forward into a low-flow angle at higher RPM. These were often unacceptably loud, which led to their blades being irregularly spaced to reduce the drone. This irregular blade spacing was carried over into clutched fans, as well as most others, like alternator fans which were noted for "sirening" at certain speeds.



3. Since heat doesn't flow thru liquid fast enough, the liquid must be forced to flow thru the system from the hot area (the engine block & heads) to the heat exchanger (the radiator). The most common method is a belt-driven centrifugal pump, used for it simplicity of design, & general reliability. Most are simply a stamped steel impeller pressed onto a shaft supported by 2 sealed bearings within a cast housing that includes the water inlet from the radiator. Common failures in the water pump include the impeller slipping on the shaft (reducing the flow to almost nothing), erosion of the impeller blades (usually due to corrosion or cavitation; both caused by improper coolant blend), bearing seals leaking (they're drained thru a hole drilled into the housing), bearing noise, or shaft damage from some external failure (like belt failure or collision). The water pump may be embedded in the block (Ford 300ci/4.9L & modular V8s), embedded in the timing cover (Land Rover 3.9L/4.0L/4.2L/4.6L), attached to the timing cover (Ford 302ci/5.0L & Ford 351W/5.8L), forward of the timing cover (many GM smallblock V8s), or remote (certain VWs).



4. In almost all, however, the coolant flow path is virtually the same: coolant drains to the bottom of the radiator where it flows out thru the lower radiator hose to the water pump inlet. The pump then forces the coolant into the block, where it flows around the cylinders to the back of the block. Cutouts in the head gasket regulate where & how much coolant enters the head & returns to the front of the engine. Within the head(s) is where the coolant reaches its highest temperature, which is why all coolant sensors are near the head(s). In V engines, the coolant flows into a crossover journal in the intake manifold before diverging; in straight engines, it diverges from the head either thru the t'stat or into the heater outlet. In either case, this is generally where its temperature is detected by both the sensor for the gauge & by the ECT for the PCM (EEC). Some V engines also have a bypass hose which allows coolant to return directly to the water pump. There may also be a small circuit to the throttle body for de-icing, which typically returns to the radiator upper tank. Coolant that exits the t'stat flows thru the upper radiator hose into the top of the radiator & thru the core where heat is radiated into the airstream. The cool (lower) radiator tank may contain the upstream heat exchanger for the automatic transmission, and the lower radiator hose may contain an orifice which diverts some coolant to the engine oil cooler.


The lower radiator hose flows TOWARD the engine.
The upper hose flows AWAY from the engine.
The heater hose connected to the intake manifold or t-stat outlet flows AWAY from the engine.
The heater hose connected to the water pump flows TO the pump.
The little bypass hose on V8s flows TO the pump.
The metal line on the radiator flows TO the radiator.
Hot coolant flows OUT of the head or intake manifold.

5. In most engines, coolant ALWAYS flows thru the heater core circuit. The outlet for the heater core is beside the t'stat, so the t'stat can never restrict flow to the heater core. This serves 2 purposes: it allows an unrestricted failsafe coolant flow (although the heater core isn't nearly large enough to cool the engine if the radiator becomes restricted), and it allows the cabin to receive heat as soon as it becomes available, irrelevant of the radiator temperature, ambient temp, t'stat, fan, or clutch/relay. Even if the coolant level becomes critically low, the heater circuit will still generally have coolant in it since it takes less coolant to sustain flow within its smaller capacity. In some vehicles, a problem has been recognized in which high engine RPM during warmup can result in excessive pressure within the heater core, resulting in rupture. The fix is to retrofit a slight restriction (an orifice plate) into the circuit upstream of the heater core to limit the flow, and thereby, the pressure. Coolant returning from the heater core is typically routed directly into the water pump. If the heater core fails, it is safe to loop a hose from the outlet directly back to the return indefinitely. It may also be beneficial to occasionally reverse the hoses at the heater core to keep it flushed out. The direction of coolant flow in the heater core is irrelevant for its function, but some side-outlet heater cores can hold air if flow is reversed.

. . .

6. As with virtually every substance, coolant (and any trapped air) expands as it is heated by the engine. Up to a limit, this effect is utilized to create the pressure which increases the boiling point. But excess pressure must be vented, without releasing poisonous coolant onto the ground. So a pressure cap is used either on the radiator for a system with a vented overflow tank, or on the "degas bottle" for a fully-pressurized system. The cap has 3 main functions: a) to seal the pressurized portion of the coolant system up to the target pressure; b) to direct the UNpressurized portion of the vented system into the overflow tank; & c) on this type of system, to allow coolant to return from the unpressurized overflow tank into the pressurized system when the system develops a vacuum (during cooldown). This return of vented coolant from the overflow is dependent on the radiator hoses being fairly rigid, either because of their rubber compounds being stiff, or because of internal springs which support their shape. Hoses that are too soft (often due to oil contamination or just age) will simply collapse, preventing the return of lost coolant from the unpressurized overflow tank. A failed cap is a more-common cause for collapsed hoses. It is also dependent on the overflow hose being airtight from the radiator neck vent to the bottom of the overflow tank. Also, the tank itself must be able to contain the vented coolant. These stipulations are some of the reasons for the increasing use of a pressurized tank (degas bottle) which is designed to hold a specific air pocket within the pressurized system. The air creates a spring that allows for coolant expansion without the risk of coolant loss due to venting; even to an overflow tank. Both systems ultimately allow failsafe venting to the ground.

.

7. Another refinement to the liquid-cooling system is the fan shroud. Often misunderstood as dead weight or an unnecessary safety shield, the shroud performs an integral function in hi-performance lightweight cooling systems. It vastly improves the fan's efficiency at moving air, as well as assisting the fan in BLOCKING airflow during warmup. Some fan shrouds also include vent flaps which open at high vehicle speed to allow extra air to flow thru the corners of the radiator not sufficiently served by the fan blades. Equally (if not more) misunderstood is the bumper valance. Not merely a cosmetic addition to reduce approach angle - on some vehicles, it is critical to engine cooling. The air-damming effect it produces at high speeds results in a slight vacuum under the engine bay which dramatically increases airflow through the radiator. Without the bumper valance, air can strike the front suspension & bounce up into the engine bay, blocking the radiator's airstream. This same effect may be noted if the vehicle is lifted significantly, or if the hood is left open on the safety catch, or if the hood is vented incorrectly for the vehicle's aerodynamic flow.

8. Possibly the latest refinement to the liquid cooling system is the electric cooling fan motor. More controllable than the thermal clutch, the e-fan allows designers to instantly control the airflow thru the radiator & condenser through the PCM's programming. Using any number of relays & resistors, or a stepper motor & controller, to produce any number of speeds (similar to the HVAC blower motor), engine temperature can be much more precisely regulated, at the cost of slightly higher complexity & weight, with slightly lower efficiency (due to the mechanical/electrical/mechanical conversion of energy). E-fan vehicles require a noticeably larger alternator, and some require failsafe cooling programming in the PCM to protect the engine from fan motor failure. E-fans also have an attraction for off-roading since they allow the driver to turn off the fan before fording deep water, thereby reducing the chance of engine or radiator damage. A common misconception is that the e-fan is somehow more fuel-efficient, but it is inherently LESS so.

9. In typical American fashion, coolant is most often referred to by a misnomer: 'antifreeze'. Most of the time, it's preventing BOILING (even in cold weather), so "antiBOIL" would be more-accurate. The antifreeze characteristic is as much a side-effect as a desirable one. But it IS desirable because water alone would freeze in many climates where vehicles are used, and even WITH antifreeze, this danger is still a cause for concern because of water's peculiar characteristic of expanding when freezing. Ice is so strong that it will crack a mountain of the hardest stone, so even a cast iron block doesn't stand a chance. Steel being cheaper than brass, most factory-installed bore plugs are the former. Most aftermarket plugs are the latter, due to its corrosion resistance. Temporarary rubber bore plugs are also available. In some climates, and often for diesels in any climate, some bore plugs are replaced by a block heater; most often with a common plug for 110VAC household power routed to the grille so that it can be plugged into an extension cord overnight.



10. Other than collision, the most common cause for coolant leaks & blockages is corrosion. Corrosion is a natural effect of pure metals & alloys being exposed to water, which naturally absorbs oxygen. It is also caused by dissimilar metals (iron, steel, aluminum, etc.) being in contact with an electrolyte (water with ions), called "Galvanic action". Both of these act continually in varying degrees to eat away at most metal components exposed to the coolant. Pump impeller blades, radiator cores, heater cores, steel pipe nipples, & thermostat housings are susceptible. The results of unchecked corrosion are leaks in the affected parts (usually the thin steel & soft aluminum ones go first) & sedimentation in the radiator, blocking the lower tubes. To combat their effects, various compounds are blended with the coolant. But they don't last forever, especially when the vehicle is NOT operated (stored/abandoned). So regardless of mileage, COOLANT MUST BE CHANGED REGULARLY. And despite its intentionally-misleading name, long-life coolant must be changed on the SAME schedule, if not sooner. The "long-life" terminology only applies to its antifreeze/antiboil characteristics; its corrosion-inhibitors are consumed even faster than standard coolant, making it "short-life" coolant. Another marketing ploy is "ready-mix" coolant, which has gained much popularity over the typical concentrated (half-&-half) coolant previously available. A quick comparison of price (often higher for a gallon of ready-mix than for concentrate) shows that a vehicle requiring 2 gallons of coolant will cost more than twice as much to fill using ready-mix as with concentrate distilled water.
There's a sucker born every minute - don't be one. Buy only normal-life concentrated coolant, and mix it yourself with distilled water to the concentration indicated on the back of the bottle for your climate. Coolant costs $10-15/gal and grocery-store-brand distilled water is generally less than $0.75/gal (thus averaging $6-8/gal). Don't pay $10-18/gal for ready-mix.

. .

11. If you have a leak, don't waste time or contaminate your cooling system with any "trick fixes" like cracking a raw egg or dumping pepper into the radiator. They don't usually work for long (if at all), and they cause problems later after the leaking part is replaced. Just START by replacing the leaky part, and you'll save money, time, & sweat. If you absolutely have to use a temporary fix, use Bar's Stop-Leak, which is a neutralized sawdust tablet.

12. Hoses, Pipes, & Nipples used to connect cooling system components must form airtight, watertight seals, and maintain those seals under a WIDE temperature range (-40 to 250°F), pressure ranging from -5 to 20psig, and decades of exposure to coolant, contamination, engine bay fluids & chemicals, battery acid, road salt, air pollution, rodents & insects, and anything else in the vehicle's environment. Steel pipes & cast-iron nipples (like many water pumps) rust, and that scale can lift the hose away; Copper & Aluminum are typically thin, and can be easily abraded, collapsed, or corrode through; brass is more robust, but still susceptible to corrosion or mechanical damage; and the vulcanized rubber of most hoses can swell, harden, crack, split, delaminate from its reinforcing fibers, degrade from acid exposure, burn from being too close to the exhaust system, or slide off the nipple from poor clamping force. Common aerosol gasket adhesive (CopperCoat, etc.) will protect the nipple from some corrosion and help keep the hose in-place. High-quality stainless hose clamps maintain clamping force over a longer period, and a thin coat of silicone grease on the clamp's inner surface will keep it from adhering to or pinching the hose. For some applications, silicone rubber hoses are available, and they generally last longer than the vehicle (making used hoses a viable option). But the best protection for all these components is to simply change the coolant on-schedule. Use high-quality hoses & replacement parts. Doing so will also reduce its tendency to cavitate at the pump impeller, which actually abrades away the steel.

13. [b]COLOR[/b] When GM introduced its ill-fated (like so many other GM innovations) Dex-Cool coolant, it chose to distinguish its product (thankfully) by using an orange dye, instead of the common green. Both colors are intended to be detectable by UV light for tracing leaks, but Dex-Cool's formula failed for 2 reasons: 1) it contains a compound that is apparently very nutritious for certain bacteria, & 2) the tap water used at many GM factories for coolant mixing contained those bacteria. The resulting slime from the flourishing bacteria created an effective glue, which blocked up the coolant passages in the radiators & heater cores, causing mass overheating for several years. The problem has since been eliminated, but the color remained, causing more confusion. Ford went to a yellow dye (also UV-detectable) to distinguish its bittering agent (& a few other chemical changes), and now some aftermarket coolants contain other colors in an attempt to indicate compatibility with certain OE coolants. The typical result is simply MORE confusion, and the only remedy is to carefully read the labelling, since no standard has yet emerged. Ford offers a quick-reference chart for Service Coolant Usage on this page, along with several other useful PDFs. Many European brands require O.A.T. (organic acid technology) which is a red coolant. Some BMWs (including some Land Rovers) use a blue type. In most cases, common green coolant is the best, and will do everything that needs to be done in any engine, with no side-effects.

14. Radiator Testing:

1) The most basic test of the cooling system is the ability to contain pressure. A simple pump with an appropriate adapter is connected in place of the cap while the engine is cool, and the system is pressurized to the cap's rated pressure while checking for leaks that might be small enough to evaporate from a running (hot) engine before detection. Another adapter can be used to test the cap's actual vent pressure. A cap can't be reliably repaired. A radiator leak AWAY from the tanks can be temporarily plugged by ripping out the fins around the leak, cutting the tube(s), & folding/crimping it shut. The tube can be permanently welded or epoxied shut. In the case of mechanical damage (collision, rock peck, or fan blade contact); if the tube is relatively clean, a patch of thin Aluminum (as from a drink can) can be epoxied over the leak to permanently seal it. Leaks due to internal or external corrosion are not likely to be successfully repaired in any way.



2) Over time, sediments & debris can collect in the radiator, potentially blocking its core tubes. My method for checking is to remove the fan, shroud, & clutch (but NOT the belt - be sure the WP pulley is secure) from the cool engine, wet the radiator fins thoroughly, and start the engine. As it warms, the t'stat will open, allowing a sudden rush of hot water into the radiator. A fog will rise from the fins as the water evaporates off the tubes that are NOT blocked, and they'll dry instantly. Any tubes that remain visibly damp (usually at the bottom) are not flowing. If more than 1/4 of the radiator stays wet, I'd either backflush & retest, or just replace it. Old brass radiators used to be rodded out, but modern Aluminum cores aren't robust enough to tolerate that procedure reliably.

15. MYTHCONCEPTIONS: The worst one (IMO) is that the thermostat is supposed to "slow the coolant down".
No.
Heat transfer is driven by temperature gradient (difference), and the gradient in the heads is around 1,000°F (between the combustion chamber & the coolant). The gradient in the radiator is typically in the 100-150°F range, but never more than 220 (for a fully-warmed-up engine in an arctic climate). So the slower the coolant flow, the hotter it gets, because it'll be picking up heat faster in the engine than it can get rid of in the radiator. If it was supposed to move slowly, there would be no need for a pump pushing it around. Fast-moving coolant cools better, and transfers heat faster. So the myth that removing a thermostat will cause the engine to overheat is absurd. Engines overheat because:
1) there isn't enough coolant in the system (low leaks, air pockets)
2) the coolant isn't moving fast enough (belt, impeller, blockage)
3) the coolant is boiling at too low a temperature (weak mix)
4) there isn't enough pressure in the system to keep the coolant from boiling (cap, high leaks)
5) the radiator can't exchange enough heat out of the coolant (paint, blockage)
6) the fan isn't moving enough air for the radiator to work at the ambient temperature (low speed in hot weather, fan clutch/motor, lack of a shroud, mud, leaves, flattened fins)
7) the engine is running badly, causing it to produce too much heat (lean mix, advanced timing, overloading)
If your engine was running hot, and you removed the t'stat and it ran HOTTER, it's because the real problem is still there, and without the t'stat, the pressure inside the heads is lower, allowing the coolant to boil more easily. When there are steam pockets in the heads, heat transfer slows down (because steam can't absorb as much heat as liquid coolant), causing that heat to remain in the head, which drives the temperature up.

A common misconception (misnomer) is that coolant spraying out or the sound of boiling means the engine has overheated. Not necessarily. "Overheating" refers to the temperature at which the engine becomes permanently damaged. An engine can get VERY hot, lose coolant or boil the coolant, and NOT be overheated. If the coolant isn't strong enough, or if the cap isn't holding pressure, or if the system contains too much air, the coolant can boil, causing a pressure spike that can spray coolant out. But boiling actually carries a LOT of heat away from the engine, so it's a form of protection from overheating.

Another common mistake is to turn off an (apparently) overheated engine and immediately refill the cooling system before restarting it. That can destroy an engine; even one that hasn't overheated yet. The thermal shock of starting a hot engine (whose thermostat is wide-open) and pumping a radiator-full of cold water through it can warp the heads or crack the block. Assuming the pressure has ALREADY VENTED, there are 2 correct procedures for cooling a hot engine:
1) With the engine off, open the hood & allow the engine to cool down by ambient air. This takes the longest, which is why it's the safest - there's no sudden temperature change to warp the metal. (Aluminum is ~13x more susceptible to warping than cast iron or steel, but cast iron is ~3x more susceptible to cracking.)
2) With the engine off, collect some replacement water or coolant. Start the engine and SLOWLY pour in the cold liquid, allowing it to mix with the hot liquid still in the system. (If the system is dry, stop, and use procedure 1.) If the thermostat closes before the radiator is full (no flow in the radiator), shut the engine off until it reopens. Spare coolant should be stored in the engine bay (especially in vehicles with known coolant leaks) so that it will be hot enough to pour in immediately.

The last one is that popping the top on a hot coolant system can cause it to explode. THAT'S TRUE! The sudden drop in pressure can allow all the hot coolant in the hot engine (about 1.5 gal) to boil (vaporize) almost instantly, pushing the hot coolant in the radiator & hoses out the radiator neck, where it bounces off the open hood and onto the sucker who pulled the cap off. It has been known to cause blindness, in addition to life-threatening burns. If you MUST remove the cap from a hot system, use a HEAVY water-resistant cloth (thick plastic bag first, then folded towel on top) to block any spray, and prevent liquid or steam from touching your skin. Remember steam is invisible and hot enough to instantly remove flesh; the fog you can see is much cooler, and not nearly as dangerous, although it suggests the presence of steam. But it's always a better idea to just let it cool off.

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Oil_cooler.jpg | Hits: 1903 | Size: 60.43 KB | Posted on: 1/21/18 | Link to this image


'94-97 Optional Smallblock Oil Cooler
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

F-series/Bronco do not use the adapter (6881) & bolt (6894). The standard filter nipple (6890) is used to mount an FL-1A filter. Those with the oil cooler option ('94-97 only) use the adapter nipple (61626) to mount the cooler (6A642), and the shorter FL-820S filter (same as 4.6L).

V8 Upper Radiator Hose F1TA8B274TA Dayco 71317 or Dayco 72691, Gates 22142
V8 Oil Cooler Hose Dayco 71735, Gates 22401 or Gates 22402
V8 Lower Radiator Hose w/Oil Cooler Dayco 71732, Gates 22143 or Gates 22541
V8 Lower Radiator Hose w/o Oil Cooler F3TA8B237NA Dayco 71740 Gates 21216


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Heater Hose Routing for 4.9L
Reversing the heater core hoses (2) AT THE HEATER CORE will not cause any problems, and may help remove debris from the heater core.
To bypass a leaking heater core, disconnect the supply (front, hot) hose at the engine and the outlet (with T) at the heater core. Loop the hose still attached to the engine back to the open nipple. Set the remaining hose out of the way.

1 Clamp 390761-S100 or 389628
2 Heater Hose, main view for Vehicles without E4OD Transmission (2 Req'd) 381260-S420A
3 Heater Hose Support Bracket 18481
4 A/C Evaporator Housing 19850
5 Heater Water Hose, view B for Vehicles with E4OD Transmission 18472
6 Clamp 376240-S100
7 Injector Rail Blower ('87-89 only)

Upper radiator hose is MotorCraft KM-2384, Dayco 71599 (made in USA), Gates 22417, Goodyear/Continental 62023 (hecho in Mexico)
Lower radiator hose is MotorCraft KM-2388, Dayco 71873, Gates 20609, Goodyear/Continental 62536
Upper w/dealer A/C KM-1188
Lower w/dealer A/C KM-1141

For more info, read this article.

Heater core installation:
. .

See also:
. . .

'93-96 truck 4.9L Fan clutch details:
Reverse Rotation Thermal
Fan Bolt Quantity: 4
Fan Bolt Thread: 5/16-18 Hole
Fan Bolt Circle: 3.000" (76.2mm)
Fan Hole Dia.: 2.370" (60.2mm)
Fan Mount Height: 1.250"
Overall Dia.: 7.200" (182.9mm)
Overall Height: 2.828125" (71.9mm)
Pilot Depth: 0.625" (16mm)
Pilot Threads: M33x1.500
MotorCraft YB480 (obsolete)
Hayden 2726
----------------------------------------------------------------
Engine Cooling System
Everything you never wanted to know about engine cooling
Some of this may seem overly simplified, but I'm trying to make it readable by anyone.

1. Internal combustion engines produce heat by burning gasoline, compressed natural gas, alcohol, or diesel in air. In fact: every bit of energy produced by the engine ultimately becomes heat (the simplest form of energy). Since an engine block large enough to dissipate this heat would be too heavy, and since it's not practical to direct sufficient airflow past the engine, a denser fluid than air is needed to carry it away so that the metals don't oxidize & the lubricants don't combust. Water was the early obvious choice because it's cheap & plentiful, but its relatively low boiling point made it less effective than needed. So chemicals were added to raise its boiling point (any mixture of liquids has a higher boiling point & lower freezing point than any single component); specifically, ethylene glycol (a poisonous alcohol with a sweet flavor). Certain other chemicals are added to inhibit corrosion, lubricate the water pump seals, make the coolant bitter so animals don't drink it, give it color for identification, etc. Some of these additives are consumed over time, requiring regular replacement of the coolant mixture. Additionally, the system is sealed to create higher-than-ambient pressure, which also raises the boiling point. The main benefits of a higher boiling point are that the coolant can carry MORE heat (energy) at a lower flow rate, and the coolant isn't lost as fast as with a vented system. Some early water-cooled vehicles with vented systems consumed more water than fuel.



2. But the DISadvantage of a liquid cooling system is that it can prevent the engine from reaching operating temperature. So it needs to be regulated in order to allow the engine to get hot enough to vaporize the fuel, boil contaminants out of the oil, maintain proper clearance in the bearings, etc. The obvious regulator is the thermostat. Its purpose is to restrict flow when the coolant is cold so the engine warms up faster. Virtually all thermostats contain a wax pellet with a calibrated melting point. When the wax melts, it expands, generating a force that overcomes a spring which normally holds the thermostat's valve closed. As the valve opens, coolant rushes past, and the wax may cool, allowing the spring to close the valve again. So the flow will "pulse" as the system warms up. Most t'stats include a weep hole to allow a VERY small flow during warmup so that the engine doesn't overheat before the t'stat gets warm. This weep hole also helps to bleed air from the system. The other regulator is the cooling fan clutch (or relay/PCM/ECT for electric fans). A thermal fan clutch is designed to absorb heat from the radiator & conduct it to a bimetallic coil which operates a lockup mechanism inside a silicone grease bath. When the coil is cold, the clutch is unlocked, allowing the fan to spin slower than the engine & restrict the air moving thru the radiator. As this airstream heats up (due to the engine warming up the coolant), the mechanism links the fan blades to the fan shaft (usually attached to the water pump), which then boosts the airflow thru the radiator. Again, a "pulse" effect can develop under certain conditions. Some early systems without a fan clutch used a flex fan whose blades created very high flow at low RPM, but then flexed forward into a low-flow angle at higher RPM. These were often unacceptably loud, which led to their blades being irregularly spaced to reduce the drone. This irregular blade spacing was carried over into clutched fans, as well as most others, like alternator fans which were noted for "sirening" at certain speeds.



3. Since heat doesn't flow thru liquid fast enough, the liquid must be forced to flow thru the system from the hot area (the engine block & heads) to the heat exchanger (the radiator). The most common method is a belt-driven centrifugal pump, used for it simplicity of design, & general reliability. Most are simply a stamped steel impeller pressed onto a shaft supported by 2 sealed bearings within a cast housing that includes the water inlet from the radiator. Common failures in the water pump include the impeller slipping on the shaft (reducing the flow to almost nothing), erosion of the impeller blades (usually due to corrosion or cavitation; both caused by improper coolant blend), bearing seals leaking (they're drained thru a hole drilled into the housing), bearing noise, or shaft damage from some external failure (like belt failure or collision). The water pump may be embedded in the block (Ford 300ci/4.9L & modular V8s), embedded in the timing cover (Land Rover 3.9L/4.0L/4.2L/4.6L), attached to the timing cover (Ford 302ci/5.0L & Ford 351W/5.8L), forward of the timing cover (many GM smallblock V8s), or remote (certain VWs).



4. In almost all, however, the coolant flow path is virtually the same: coolant drains to the bottom of the radiator where it flows out thru the lower radiator hose to the water pump inlet. The pump then forces the coolant into the block, where it flows around the cylinders to the back of the block. Cutouts in the head gasket regulate where & how much coolant enters the head & returns to the front of the engine. Within the head(s) is where the coolant reaches its highest temperature, which is why all coolant sensors are near the head(s). In V engines, the coolant flows into a crossover journal in the intake manifold before diverging; in straight engines, it diverges from the head either thru the t'stat or into the heater outlet. In either case, this is generally where its temperature is detected by both the sensor for the gauge & by the ECT for the PCM (EEC). Some V engines also have a bypass hose which allows coolant to return directly to the water pump. There may also be a small circuit to the throttle body for de-icing, which typically returns to the radiator upper tank. Coolant that exits the t'stat flows thru the upper radiator hose into the top of the radiator & thru the core where heat is radiated into the airstream. The cool (lower) radiator tank may contain the upstream heat exchanger for the automatic transmission, and the lower radiator hose may contain an orifice which diverts some coolant to the engine oil cooler.


The lower radiator hose flows TOWARD the engine.
The upper hose flows AWAY from the engine.
The heater hose connected to the intake manifold or t-stat outlet flows AWAY from the engine.
The heater hose connected to the water pump flows TO the pump.
The little bypass hose on V8s flows TO the pump.
The metal line on the radiator flows TO the radiator.
Hot coolant flows OUT of the head or intake manifold.

5. In most engines, coolant ALWAYS flows thru the heater core circuit. The outlet for the heater core is beside the t'stat, so the t'stat can never restrict flow to the heater core. This serves 2 purposes: it allows an unrestricted failsafe coolant flow (although the heater core isn't nearly large enough to cool the engine if the radiator becomes restricted), and it allows the cabin to receive heat as soon as it becomes available, irrelevant of the radiator temperature, ambient temp, t'stat, fan, or clutch/relay. Even if the coolant level becomes critically low, the heater circuit will still generally have coolant in it since it takes less coolant to sustain flow within its smaller capacity. In some vehicles, a problem has been recognized in which high engine RPM during warmup can result in excessive pressure within the heater core, resulting in rupture. The fix is to retrofit a slight restriction (an orifice plate) into the circuit upstream of the heater core to limit the flow, and thereby, the pressure. Coolant returning from the heater core is typically routed directly into the water pump. If the heater core fails, it is safe to loop a hose from the outlet directly back to the return indefinitely. It may also be beneficial to occasionally reverse the hoses at the heater core to keep it flushed out. The direction of coolant flow in the heater core is irrelevant for its function, but some side-outlet heater cores can hold air if flow is reversed.

. .

6. As with virtually every substance, coolant (and any trapped air) expands as it is heated by the engine. Up to a limit, this effect is utilized to create the pressure which increases the boiling point. But excess pressure must be vented, without releasing poisonous coolant onto the ground. So a pressure cap is used either on the radiator for a system with a vented overflow tank, or on the "degas bottle" for a fully-pressurized system. The cap has 3 main functions: a) to seal the pressurized portion of the coolant system up to the target pressure; b) to direct the UNpressurized portion of the vented system into the overflow tank; & c) on this type of system, to allow coolant to return from the unpressurized overflow tank into the pressurized system when the system develops a vacuum (during cooldown). This return of vented coolant from the overflow is dependent on the radiator hoses being fairly rigid, either because of their rubber compounds being stiff, or because of internal springs which support their shape. Hoses that are too soft (often due to oil contamination or just age) will simply collapse, preventing the return of lost coolant from the unpressurized overflow tank. A failed cap is a more-common cause for collapsed hoses. It is also dependent on the overflow hose being airtight from the radiator neck vent to the bottom of the overflow tank. Also, the tank itself must be able to contain the vented coolant. These stipulations are some of the reasons for the increasing use of a pressurized tank (degas bottle) which is designed to hold a specific air pocket within the pressurized system. The air creates a spring that allows for coolant expansion without the risk of coolant loss due to venting; even to an overflow tank. Both systems ultimately allow failsafe venting to the ground.

7. Another refinement to the liquid-cooling system is the fan shroud. Often misunderstood as dead weight or an unnecessary safety shield, the shroud performs an integral function in hi-performance lightweight cooling systems. It vastly improves the fan's efficiency at moving air, as well as assisting the fan in BLOCKING airflow during warmup. Some fan shrouds also include vent flaps which open at high vehicle speed to allow extra air to flow thru the corners of the radiator not sufficiently served by the fan blades. Equally (if not more) misunderstood is the bumper valance. Not merely a cosmetic addition to reduce approach angle - on some vehicles, it is critical to engine cooling. The air-damming effect it produces at high speeds results in a slight vacuum under the engine bay which dramatically increases airflow through the radiator. Without the bumper valance, air can strike the front suspension & bounce up into the engine bay, blocking the radiator's airstream. This same effect may be noted if the vehicle is lifted significantly, or if the hood is left open on the safety catch, or if the hood is vented incorrectly for the vehicle's aerodynamic flow.

8. Possibly the latest refinement to the liquid cooling system is the electric cooling fan motor. More controllable than the thermal clutch, the e-fan allows designers to instantly control the airflow thru the radiator & condenser through the PCM's programming. Using any number of relays & resistors to produce any number of speeds (similar to the HVAC blower motor), engine temperature can be much more precisely regulated, at the cost of slightly higher complexity & weight, with slightly lower efficiency (due to the mechanical/electrical/mechanical conversion of energy). E-fan vehicles require a noticeably larger alternator, and some require failsafe cooling programming in the PCM to protect the engine from fan motor failure. E-fans also have an attraction for off-roading since they allow the driver to turn off the fan before fording deep water, thereby reducing the chance of engine or radiator damage. A common misconception is that the e-fan is somehow more fuel-efficient, but it is inherently LESS so.

9. In typical American fashion, coolant is most often referred to by a misnomer: 'antifreeze'. Most of the time, it's preventing BOILING (even in cold weather), so "antiBOIL" would be more-accurate. The antifreeze characteristic is as much a side-effect as a desirable one. But it IS desirable because water alone would freeze in many climates where vehicles are used, and even WITH antifreeze, this danger is still a cause for concern because of water's peculiar characteristic of expanding when freezing. Ice is so strong that it will crack a mountain of the hardest stone, so even a cast iron block doesn't stand a chance. Steel being cheaper than brass, most factory-installed bore plugs are the former. Most aftermarket plugs are the latter, due to its corrosion resistance. Temporarary rubber bore plugs are also available. In some climates, and often for diesels in any climate, some bore plugs are replaced by a block heater; most often with a common plug for 110VAC household power routed to the grille so that it can be plugged into an extension cord overnight.



10. Other than collision, the most common cause for coolant leaks & blockages is corrosion. Corrosion is a natural effect of pure metals & alloys being exposed to water, which naturally absorbs oxygen. It is also caused by dissimilar metals (iron, steel, aluminum, etc.) being in contact with an electrolyte (water with ions), called "Galvanic action". Both of these act continually in varying degrees to eat away at most metal components exposed to the coolant. Pump impeller blades, radiator cores, heater cores, steel pipe nipples, & thermostat housings are susceptible. The results of unchecked corrosion are leaks in the affected parts (usually the thin steel & soft aluminum ones go first) & sedimentation in the radiator, blocking the lower tubes. To combat their effects, various compounds are blended with the coolant. But they don't last forever, especially when the vehicle is NOT operated (stored/abandoned). So regardless of mileage, COOLANT MUST BE CHANGED REGULARLY. And despite its intentionally-misleading name, long-life coolant must be changed on the SAME schedule, if not sooner. The "long-life" terminology only applies to its antifreeze/antiboil characteristics; its corrosion-inhibitors are consumed even faster than standard coolant, making it "short-life" coolant. Another marketing ploy is "ready-mix" coolant, which has gained much popularity over the typical concentrated (half-&-half) coolant previously available. A quick comparison of price (often higher for a gallon of ready-mix than for concentrate) shows that a vehicle requiring 2 gallons of coolant will cost more than twice as much to fill using ready-mix as with concentrate distilled water.
There's a sucker born every minute - don't be one. Buy only normal-life concentrated coolant, and mix it yourself with distilled water to the concentration indicated on the back of the bottle for your climate. Coolant costs $10-15/gal and grocery-store-brand distilled water is generally less than $0.75/gal (thus averaging $6-8/gal). Don't pay $10-18/gal for ready-mix.

11. If you have a leak, don't waste time or contaminate your cooling system with any "trick fixes" like cracking a raw egg or dumping pepper into the radiator. They don't usually work for long (if at all), and they cause problems later after the leaking part is replaced. Just START by replacing the leaky part, and you'll save money, time, & sweat. If you absolutely have to use a temporary fix, use Bar's Stop-Leak, which is a neutralized sawdust tablet.

12. Hoses, Pipes, & Nipples used to connect cooling system components must form airtight, watertight seals, and maintain those seals under a WIDE temperature range (-40 to 250°F), pressure ranging from -5 to 20psig, and decades of exposure to coolant, contamination, engine bay fluids & chemicals, battery acid, road salt, air pollution, rodents & insects, and anything else in the vehicle's environment. Steel pipes & cast-iron nipples (like many water pumps) rust, and that scale can lift the hose away; Copper & Aluminum are typically thin, and can be easily abraded, collapsed, or corrode through; brass is more robust, but still susceptible to corrosion or mechanical damage; and the vulcanized rubber of most hoses can swell, harden, crack, split, delaminate from its reinforcing fibers, degrade from acid exposure, burn from being too close to the exhaust system, or slide off the nipple from poor clamping force. Common aerosol gasket adhesive (CopperCoat, etc.) will protect the nipple from some corrosion and help keep the hose in-place. High-quality stainless hose clamps maintain clamping force over a longer period, and a thin coat of silicone grease on the clamp's inner surface will keep it from adhering to or pinching the hose. For some applications, silicone rubber hoses are available, and they generally last longer than the vehicle (making used hoses a viable option). But the best protection for all these components is to simply change the coolant on-schedule. Use high-quality hoses & replacement parts. Doing so will also reduce its tendency to cavitate at the pump impeller, which actually abrades away the steel.

13. [b]COLOR[/b] When GM introduced its ill-fated (like so many other GM innovations) Dex-Cool coolant, it chose to distinguish its product (thankfully) by using an orange dye, instead of the common green. Both colors are intended to be detectable by UV light for tracing leaks, but Dex-Cool's formula failed for 2 reasons: 1) it contains a compound that is apparently very nutritious for certain bacteria, & 2) the tap water used at many GM factories for coolant mixing contained those bacteria. The resulting slime from the flourishing bacteria created an effective glue, which blocked up the coolant passages in the radiators & heater cores, causing mass overheating for several years. The problem has since been eliminated, but the color remained, causing more confusion. Ford went to a yellow dye (also UV-detectable) to distinguish its bittering agent (& a few other chemical changes), and now some aftermarket coolants contain other colors in an attempt to indicate compatibility with certain OE coolants. The typical result is simply MORE confusion, and the only remedy is to carefully read the labelling, since no standard has yet emerged. Ford offers a quick-reference chart for Service Coolant Usage on this page, along with several other useful PDFs. Many European brands require O.A.T. (organic acid technology) which is a red coolant. Some BMWs (including some Land Rovers) use a blue type. In most cases, common green coolant is the best, and will do everything that needs to be done in any engine, with no side-effects.

14. Radiator Testing:

1) The most basic test of the cooling system is the ability to contain pressure. A simple pump with an appropriate adapter is connected in place of the cap while the engine is cool, and the system is pressurized to the cap's rated pressure while checking for leaks that might be small enough to evaporate from a running (hot) engine before detection. Another adapter can be used to test the cap's actual vent pressure. A cap can't be reliably repaired. A radiator leak AWAY from the tanks can be temporarily plugged by ripping out the fins around the leak, cutting the tube(s), & folding/crimping it shut. The tube can be permanently welded or epoxied shut. In the case of mechanical damage (collision, rock peck, or fan blade contact); if the tube is relatively clean, a patch of thin Aluminum (as from a drink can) can be epoxied over the leak to permanently seal it. Leaks due to internal or external corrosion are not likely to be successfully repaired in any way.



2) Over time, sediments & debris can collect in the radiator, potentially blocking its core tubes. My method for checking is to remove the fan, shroud, & clutch (but NOT the belt - be sure the WP pulley is secure) from the cool engine, wet the radiator fins thoroughly, and start the engine. As it warms, the t'stat will open, allowing a sudden rush of hot water into the radiator. A fog will rise from the fins as the water evaporates off the tubes that are NOT blocked, and they'll dry instantly. Any tubes that remain visibly damp (usually at the bottom) are not flowing. If more than 1/4 of the radiator stays wet, I'd either backflush & retest, or just replace it. Old brass radiators used to be rodded out, but modern Aluminum cores aren't robust enough to tolerate that procedure reliably.

15. MYTHCONCEPTIONS: The worst one (IMO) is that the thermostat is supposed to "slow the coolant down".
No.
Heat transfer is driven by temperature gradient (difference), and the gradient in the heads is around 1,000°F (between the combustion chamber & the coolant). The gradient in the radiator is typically in the 100-150°F range, but never more than 220 (for a fully-warmed-up engine in an arctic climate). So the slower the coolant flow, the hotter it gets, because it'll be picking up heat faster in the engine than it can get rid of in the radiator. If it was supposed to move slowly, there would be no need for a pump pushing it around. Fast-moving coolant cools better, and transfers heat faster. So the myth that removing a thermostat will cause the engine to overheat is absurd. Engines overheat because:
1) there isn't enough coolant in the system (low leaks, air pockets)
2) the coolant isn't moving fast enough (belt, impeller, blockage)
3) the coolant is boiling at too low a temperature (weak mix)
4) there isn't enough pressure in the system to keep the coolant from boiling (cap, high leaks)
5) the radiator can't exchange enough heat out of the coolant (paint, blockage)
6) the fan isn't moving enough air for the radiator to work at the ambient temperature (low speed in hot weather, fan clutch/motor, lack of a shroud, mud, leaves, flattened fins)
7) the engine is running badly, causing it to produce too much heat (lean mix, advanced timing, overloading)
If your engine was running hot, and you removed the t'stat and it ran HOTTER, it's because the real problem is still there, and without the t'stat, the pressure inside the heads is lower, allowing the coolant to boil more easily. When there are steam pockets in the heads, heat transfer slows down (because steam can't absorb as much heat as liquid coolant), causing that heat to remain in the head, which drives the temperature up.

A common misconception (misnomer) is that coolant spraying out or the sound of boiling means the engine has overheated. Not necessarily. "Overheating" refers to the temperature at which the engine becomes permanently damaged. An engine can get VERY hot, lose coolant or boil the coolant, and NOT be overheated. If the coolant isn't strong enough, or if the cap isn't holding pressure, or if the system contains too much air, the coolant can boil, causing a pressure spike that can spray coolant out. But boiling actually carries a LOT of heat away from the engine, so it's a form of protection from overheating.

Another common mistake is to turn off an (apparently) overheated engine and immediately refill the cooling system before restarting it. That can destroy an engine; even one that hasn't overheated yet. The thermal shock of starting a hot engine (whose thermostat is wide-open) and pumping a radiator-full of cold water through it can warp the heads or crack the block. Assuming the pressure has ALREADY VENTED, there are 2 correct procedures for cooling a hot engine:
1) With the engine off, open the hood & allow the engine to cool down by ambient air. This takes the longest, which is why it's the safest - there's no sudden temperature change to warp the metal. (Aluminum is ~13x more susceptible to warping than cast iron or steel, but cast iron is ~3x more susceptible to cracking.)
2) With the engine off, collect some replacement water or coolant. Start the engine and SLOWLY pour in the cold liquid, allowing it to mix with the hot liquid still in the system. (If the system is dry, stop, and use procedure 1.) If the thermostat closes before the radiator is full (no flow in the radiator), shut the engine off until it reopens. Spare coolant should be stored in the engine bay (especially in vehicles with known coolant leaks) so that it will be hot enough to pour in immediately.

The last one is that popping the top on a hot coolant system can cause it to explode. THAT'S TRUE! The sudden drop in pressure can allow all the hot coolant in the hot engine (about 1.5 gal) to boil (vaporize) almost instantly, pushing the hot coolant in the radiator & hoses out the radiator neck, where it bounces off the open hood and onto the sucker who pulled the cap off. It has been known to cause blindness, in addition to life-threatening burns. If you MUST remove the cap from a hot system, use a HEAVY water-resistant cloth (thick plastic bag first, then folded towel on top) to block any spray, and prevent liquid or steam from touching your skin. Remember steam is invisible and hot enough to instantly remove flesh; the fog you can see is much cooler, and not nearly as dangerous, although it suggests the presence of steam. But it's always a better idea to just let it cool off.

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Heater Hose Routing for 5.0L
Reversing the heater core hoses ( 8 ) AT THE HEATER CORE will not cause any problems, and may help remove debris from the heater core.
To bypass a leaking heater core, disconnect the supply (lower, hot) hose at the engine and the outlet (with T) at the heater core. Loop the hose still attached to the engine back to the open nipple. Set the remaining hose out of the way.

1 Existing Screw (Part of Cowl Panel)
2 A/C Manifold and Tube 19D734
3 Wiring Assembly 9D930
4 Bolt Manifold to Compressor (1 Req'd) N805334-S2
5 Compressor and Clutch Assembly 19D629
6 Heated Throttle Body System (Part of 9E926)
7 Clamp 390761-S100
8 Hose (2 Req'd) 381260-S320A
9 A/C Evaporator Housing 19850
10 Wiring Assembly 18A586
11 Clip (2 Req'd) 19N704
12 Tag A/C Service Instructions (Part of Suction Accumulator/Drier)
13 Condenser to Evaporator Tube 19835
14 Hose Clamp (2 Req'd) 376240-S100
15 Hose and Tube Assembly 8548 (F2TZ-8555-B)
16 Existing Screw (Part of 8146)
17 Fan Shroud 8146
18 U-Nuts (Part of 8146)
19 Radiator 8005

The hard tube bolted to the alternator is this for E4OD trucks. The version for other transmissions (with the small nipple for the throttle heat return) has not been available for years.

For more info, read this article.


Heater core installation:
. .

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Heater Hose Routing for 5.8L


Reversing the heater core hoses ( 8 ) AT THE HEATER CORE will not cause any problems, and may help remove debris from the heater core.
To bypass a leaking heater core, disconnect the supply (lower, hot) hose at the engine and the outlet (with T) at the heater core. Loop the hose still attached to the engine back to the open nipple. Set the remaining hose out of the way.

1 Existing Screw (Part of Cowl Top Outer Panel)
2 Dipstick (Part of 6007)
3 Bolt, Manifold to Compressor N805334-S2
4 A/C Manifold and Tube 19D734
5 Wiring Assembly 9D930
6 A/C Compressor and Clutch Assembly 19D629
7 Thermactor System 19618
8 Hose 381260-S320A
9 Clamp (5 Req'd) 389628-S100 390761-S100
10 Clip (4 Req'd) 19N704
11 Wiring (Part of 14401)
12 Hose Clamp (2 Req'd) 376240-S100
13 Fan Shroud 8146
14 U-Nuts (Part of 8146)
15 Radiator 8005
16 Condenser to Evaporator Tube 19835
17 Tag A/C Service Instructions (Part of 19C808 )
18 Hose (2 Req'd) 381260-S360A
19 Engine Vacuum Supply Reservoir 9J442
20 A/C Evaporator Housing 19850

The hard tube bolted to the alternator is this for E4OD trucks. The version for other transmissions (with the small nipple for the throttle heat return) has not been available for years.

For more info, read this article.


Heater core installation:
. .

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Block Heater Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Bore Plugs & Block Heater
(They're not "freeze" plugs because they do nothing different when they freeze - the block will still break.)

Core Plugs

Removal and Installation

To remove a large core plug, drill a 12.70mm (1/2-inch) hole in the center of the plug and remove with an Impact Slide Hammer T59L-100-B or T50T-100-A or pry it out with a large drift punch. On a small core plug, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole in the center of the plug and pry it out with a small pin punch. Clean and inspect the plug bore.

Prior to installing a core plug, the plug bore should be inspected for any damage that would interfere with the proper sealing of the plug. If the bore is damaged, it will be necessary to true the surface by boring for the next specified oversize plug.

Oversize (OS) plugs are identified by the OS stamped in the flat located on the cup side of the plug.

Coat the plug and/or bore lightly with an oil-resistant (oil galley) Sealing Compound E0AZ-19554-B or EZAZ-19544-B or equivalent and install it following the procedure for cup-type or expansion type below:

Cup-Type

Cup-type core plugs are installed with the flanged edge outward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the outer edge of the flange. The flange on cup-type plugs flares outward with the largest diameter of the outer (sealing) edge.

Expansion-Type

Expansion-type core plugs are installed with the flange edge inward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the base of the flange with the flange flaring inward.

CAUTION: It is imperative to push or drive the plug into the machined bore using a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is the plug to be driven using a tool that contacts the crowned portion of the plug. This method will expand the plug prior to installation and may damage the plug and/or plug bore.

When installed, the trailing (maximum) diameter must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.

CAUTION: It is imperative to pull the plug into the machined bore by using a properly designed tool. Under no circumstances is the plug to be driven into the bore using a tool that contacts the flange. This method will damage the sealing edge and will result in leakage and/or plug blowout.

The flanged (trailing) edge must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.



Engine Block Heater


1. Open radiator draincock (8115) and remove coolant from radiator (8005) and engine (6007).
2. Remove block heater (6A051). Note the position that the element is pointed (eg. 12:00, 6:00, etc.)
3. Clean the inside diameter of the core plug hole machined surface and hole entrance. Remove any burrs at the hole entrance to avoid damage to the O-ring.
4. Cover rubber O-ring and core opening with a liberal coating of chassis grease (C1AZ-19590-B, C, D, E or equivalent.
5. Insert block heater in core plug hole in the same position as it was removed.
6. Tighten screw in normal clockwise direction. Torque to 1.6-1.8 N-m (14-16 lb-in).
7. Refill cooling system.

A '97 GM turbo diesel uses a 22-Ohm (650W, 5.5A@120VAC) heater, and a '92 non-turbo F350 uses a 16-Ohm (900W, 7.5A@120VAC) heater, but the '92 Ford 7.3L owner guide supplement says 1000W on p.22. The heater on a '97 7.3L is etched "1000 W, 120 VAC" which would pull 8.33A through 14.4 Ohms.

Smallblock V8s take 1.5" bore plugs & heaters; 4.9L takes 1.625".
Replacement Ford cords: FLEETGUARD 251919, KATS 28216, ZeroStart 3600008

For more info, read this TSB (light truck info begins on p.110/398 ), this article, & this one.

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REPLACE Block Heater Wiring with


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Belt Routing for smallblock EFIs

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nm . . . . . . Lb-Ft
Pivot Bolt, Alternator, 7.5L, All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54-71 . . . . . 40-52
Adjuster Bolt, Alternator, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20-30 . . . . . 15-22
Bolt, Automatic Tensioner-to-Bracket, 4.9L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-92 . . . . . 50-68
Bolt, Automatic Tensioner-to-Bracket, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.3L Diesel . . . 47-63 . . . . . . 35-46
Screw, Fan-to-Clutch, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-24 . . . . . 12-18
Clutch-to-Water Pump, 4.9L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53-72 . . . . . 39-53
Screw, Clutch-to-Water Pump, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-24 . . . . . 12-18
Screw, Clutch-to-Water Pump, 7.3L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113-153 . . . 84-113

Ford vehicles are equipped with poly-V drive belts (8620). To ensure maximum belt life, replacement drive belts should be of the same type and specification as originally installed. The drive belts (except for 7.5L generator belt) are tensioned by an automatic belt tensioner which maintains proper belt tension at all times. The 7.5L generator belt is not automatically tensioned and requires periodic tensioning. Loose drive belts will result in slippage that may cause a noise complaint or improper accessory operation (generator (GEN) (10300) will not charge, etc.). Overly tight drive belts will place severe loads on accessory bearings and result in premature drive belt or accessory failure.

Drive Belt Cracking/Chunking/Wear

Under severe operating conditions (high temperatures, low humidity), drive belt rib cracking can occur at less than 96,000 km (60,000 miles). Drive belt rib cracking perpendicular to the belt ribs is not a reason for concern and has no detrimental effect on belt performance. Cracks parallel to ribs are not acceptable. Drive belt chunking means that the rubber material actually chunks out between the cracks. The drive belt (8620) should be replaced if chunking occurs.

Drive Belt Noise/Flutter

Drive belt chirp is a regularly occurring chirping noise that occurs due to pulley misalignment or excessive pulley runout. It can be a result of a damaged pulley or an improperly replaced pulley that was not properly aligned. To correct, determine the area where the noise comes from. Then check each of the pulleys in that area with a straightedge to the crankshaft pulley (6312) and look for the accessory pulleys to be out of position in the fore/aft direction or at an angle to the straightedge.

Belt squeal is an intermittent noise that occurs when the drive belt slips on a pulley during certain conditions such as: engine start-up, rapid engine acceleration, or A/C clutch engagement. Drive belt squeal can occur under the following conditions:

1. If the A/C discharge pressure goes above 2895 kPa (420 psi). This can occur if:
a) The A/C system is overcharged.
b) The A/C condenser core airflow is blocked.
c) The fan blade (8600) is not engaging fully at idle.
d) If A/C OFF equalized pressure (the common discharge and suction pressure that occurs after several minutes) exceeds 965 kPa (140 psi), which is a rare occurrence at high ambient temperatures with a hot engine, turn A/C off for a few seconds and then back on after fan blade begins to cool A/C condenser core.
2. If any of the accessories are damaged, or have a worn or damaged bearing or internal torsional resistance above normal for any reason. All of the accessories should be rotatable by hand in the unloaded condition. If any are not, the accessories should be inspected.
3. If fluid gets on the drive belt. Fluids include power steering fluid, engine coolant, engine oil or air conditioning system lubricant.
4. If fluid does get on the drive belt during service, the best policy is to clean the drive belt with soap and water and thoroughly rinse with clean water. The drive belt does not have to be replaced if no apparent damage has occurred.
5. If drive belt is too long. A drive belt that is too long will allow the drive belt tensioner arm to go all the way to drive belt tensioner arm travel stop under certain load conditions, which will untension the drive belt. If the drive belt tensioner (6B209) is resting on the stop, replace the drive belt.
6. If the drive belt tensioner is worn or damaged. The drive belt tensioner arm should rotate freely without binding.

Drive Belt Replacement
Conditions requiring drive belt (8620) replacement are rib chunk out, excessive wear, severe glazing, frayed cords. Replace any drive belt exhibiting any of these conditions. Minor cracks in the ribbed side of V-grooved portion of the drive belt are considered acceptable.
NOTE: Refer to the proper serpentine drive belt routing diagram in this section, or as indicated on the underhood label, for the specific engine (6007) being serviced.

1. Route drive belt on the pulleys properly as indicated on the correct diagram. The belt span that extends past the flat belt idler pulley (8678 ) should be loose.
2. Check to see that the drive belt is positioned correctly on all pulleys. Make sure all drive belt ribs are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.
3. Install a closed-end wrench on the drive belt tensioner pulley and rotate in the proper direction to lift the tensioner arm away from the drive belt and install the drive belt properly under the flat idler pulley to install. Do not allow the drive belt tensioner (6B209) to snap back because this may damage the drive belt.
CAUTION: Make sure the drive belt is properly seated on all pulleys. One revolution on the engine with an incorrectly seated drive belt may snap the tensile members in the drive belt.
4. Visually inspect drive belt alignment.
5. Slowly release the drive belt tensioner toward the drive belt to tighten the drive belt and complete installation.

Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic

The drive belt tensioner will maintain correct belt tension if the correct length drive belt (8620) is on the engine (6007). To verify that the drive belt tensioner is working properly on the 4.9L, 7.3L and 7.5L engines, check to see that the belt length indicator mark on the drive belt tensioner is between the maximum and minimum marks. The 5.0L and 5.8L drive belt tensioners do not have belt length indicator marks. This belt system has a drive belt tensioner that can be improperly installed if the pivot bolt is cross-threaded in the generator mounting bracket (10153) or bent. This can result in an out-of-sheave line condition of the belt idler pulley (8678 ).
1. Check that the end of the tensioner spring is looped around the spring stop in the generator mounting bracket and can provide the 60 pound nominal output (±15 percent).
2. Check that the routing idler bolt is not cross-threaded and is tightened to 47-63 Nm (34-46 lb-ft).
3. Check that both the drive belt tensioner and belt idler pulley are parallel to each other and the sheave line.

Removal and Installation

1. Install a closed-end wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt and lift the tensioner arm away from the drive belt (8620).
2. Remove old drive belt. Release drive belt tensioner (6B209) slowly. Do not allow drive belt tensioner to snap back after the drive belt is removed because this may damage the drive belt tensioner.
3. Remove drive belt tensioner by loosening the tensioner pivot bolt.
4. Install drive belt tensioner. Tighten pivot bolt to 47-63 Nm (34-46 lb-ft).
5. CAUTION: Make sure the drive belt is properly seated on all pulleys. One revolution of the engine (6007) with an incorrectly seated drive belt may snap tensile members in the drive belt.
Install new drive belt over pulleys making sure that all belt ribs are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.

Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement
Engine . . . Tensioner . . . . . . . Replacement Pulley
4.9L/7.5L F5TE-6B209-CA E9TA-19A216-BA

Conditions requiring pulley replacement are excessive pulley wear or pulley bearing noise usually resulting from extended operation in abrasive off-road conditions.
Using a 16mm closed-end wrench, remove the drive belt (8620) according to the Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic removal procedure in this section.

Removal
NOTE: 7.5L (not F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis) bolts have a left-hand thread, requiring clockwise motion to loosen the bolts. 4.9L and 7.5L F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis idler pulley bolts, which loosen counterclockwise, have a conventional right-hand thread,

1. NOTE: Excessive rearward force on the bolt during removal may overstress and crack the tensioner arm.
NOTE: Pulleys being replaced for suspected bearing wear should be evaluated for rough bearings. Bearing noise that continues or rapidly returns after a replacement pulley is installed is usually belt chirp rather than worn bearings. Bearings should rotate smoothly with a slight resistance due to the permanent lubrication.
Using the 16mm wrench, loosen the belt idler pulley retention bolt or nut.
2. Remove bolt or nut and dust shield and remove the drive belt tensioner (6B209) from the tensioner arm locating boss.

Installation

1. Replace the pulley and reverse the removal instructions observing the correct rotation of the retention bolt.
2. Tighten bolt or nut to specifications.

Drive Belt Misalignment
CAUTION: Incorrect drive belt installation will cause excessive drive belt wear and may cause the drive belt to come off the drive pulleys.
NOTE: Original equipment drive belts are made of a special cord construction and are subjected to special testing before they are approved for use.

Replacement drive belts, other than O.E.M., may track improperly. If a replacement drive belt tracks improperly, the drive belt should be replaced with an O.E.M. drive belt to avoid performance failure or loss of drive belt during cold operation.

With the engine running, check drive belt tracking (the position of the drive belt on the drive belt tensioner). If the edge of the drive belt rides beyond the edge of the drive belt tensioner, this can cause noise and premature wear. If a drive belt tracking condition exists, visually check the drive belt tensioner for damage, especially the mounting pad surface. If the drive belt tensioner is not installed correctly with the locating pins in the locating holes, the mounting surface pad will be out of position. This will result in drive belt tension and chirp and squeal noises. If these procedures do not correct the drive belt noise, try replacing the drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt. However, the drive belt noise may return again (with mileage) if one of the above conditions still exists uncorrected.

With engine running, visually observe the grooves in the pulleys (not the pulley flanges) for excessive wobble. Replace components as required.
Check all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner for any interference that would prevent the component from mounting properly. Correct any interference condition and recheck belt tracking. Tighten all accessories mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner retaining hardware to specification. Recheck drive belt tracking.

. .

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Belt Routing for V8 EFI

Flat-spring (enclosed) style tensioners incorporate a belt length indicator on the edge of the spring housing. Coil-spring (exposed) tensioners used on '93-up 5.0L, 5.8L, & 7.3L have no such indicator.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nm . . . . . . Lb-Ft
Pivot Bolt, Alternator, 7.5L, All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54-71 . . . . . 40-52
Adjuster Bolt, Alternator, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20-30 . . . . . 15-22
Bolt, Automatic Tensioner-to-Bracket, 4.9L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-92 . . . . . 50-68
Bolt, Automatic Tensioner-to-Bracket, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.3L Diesel . . . 47-63 . . . . . . 35-46
Screw, Fan-to-Clutch, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-24 . . . . . 12-18
Clutch-to-Water Pump, 4.9L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53-72 . . . . . 39-53
Screw, Clutch-to-Water Pump, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-24 . . . . . 12-18
Screw, Clutch-to-Water Pump, 7.3L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113-153 . . . 84-113

Ford vehicles are equipped with poly-V drive belts (8620). To ensure maximum belt life, replacement drive belts should be of the same type and specification as originally installed. The drive belts (except for 7.5L generator belt) are tensioned by an automatic belt tensioner which maintains proper belt tension at all times. The 7.5L generator belt is not automatically tensioned and requires periodic tensioning. Loose drive belts will result in slippage that may cause a noise complaint or improper accessory operation (generator (GEN) (10300) will not charge, etc.). Overly tight drive belts will place severe loads on accessory bearings and result in premature drive belt or accessory failure.

Drive Belt Cracking/Chunking/Wear

Under severe operating conditions (high temperatures, low humidity), drive belt rib cracking can occur at less than 96,000 km (60,000 miles). Drive belt rib cracking perpendicular to the belt ribs is not a reason for concern and has no detrimental effect on belt performance. Cracks parallel to ribs are not acceptable. Drive belt chunking means that the rubber material actually chunks out between the cracks. The drive belt (8620) should be replaced if chunking occurs.

Drive Belt Noise/Flutter

Drive belt chirp is a regularly occurring chirping noise that occurs due to pulley misalignment or excessive pulley runout. It can be a result of a damaged pulley or an improperly replaced pulley that was not properly aligned. To correct, determine the area where the noise comes from. Then check each of the pulleys in that area with a straightedge to the crankshaft pulley (6312) and look for the accessory pulleys to be out of position in the fore/aft direction or at an angle to the straightedge.

Belt squeal is an intermittent noise that occurs when the drive belt slips on a pulley during certain conditions such as: engine start-up, rapid engine acceleration, or A/C clutch engagement. Drive belt squeal can occur under the following conditions:

1. If the A/C discharge pressure goes above 2895 kPa (420 psi). This can occur if:
a) The A/C system is overcharged.
b) The A/C condenser core airflow is blocked.
c) The fan blade (8600) is not engaging fully at idle.
d) If A/C OFF equalized pressure (the common discharge and suction pressure that occurs after several minutes) exceeds 965 kPa (140 psi), which is a rare occurrence at high ambient temperatures with a hot engine, turn A/C off for a few seconds and then back on after fan blade begins to cool A/C condenser core.
2. If any of the accessories are damaged, or have a worn or damaged bearing or internal torsional resistance above normal for any reason. All of the accessories should be rotatable by hand in the unloaded condition. If any are not, the accessories should be inspected.
3. If fluid gets on the drive belt. Fluids include power steering fluid, engine coolant, engine oil or air conditioning system lubricant.
4. If fluid does get on the drive belt during service, the best policy is to clean the drive belt with soap and water and thoroughly rinse with clean water. The drive belt does not have to be replaced if no apparent damage has occurred.
5. If drive belt is too long. A drive belt that is too long will allow the drive belt tensioner arm to go all the way to drive belt tensioner arm travel stop under certain load conditions, which will untension the drive belt. If the drive belt tensioner (6B209) is resting on the stop, replace the drive belt.
6. If the drive belt tensioner is worn or damaged. The drive belt tensioner arm should rotate freely without binding.

Drive Belt Replacement
Conditions requiring drive belt (8620) replacement are rib chunk out, excessive wear, severe glazing, frayed cords. Replace any drive belt exhibiting any of these conditions. Minor cracks in the ribbed side of V-grooved portion of the drive belt are considered acceptable.
NOTE: Refer to the proper serpentine drive belt routing diagram in this section, or as indicated on the underhood label, for the specific engine (6007) being serviced.

1. Route drive belt on the pulleys properly as indicated on the correct diagram. The belt span that extends past the flat belt idler pulley (8678 ) should be loose.
2. Check to see that the drive belt is positioned correctly on all pulleys. Make sure all drive belt ribs are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.
3. Install a closed-end wrench on the drive belt tensioner pulley and rotate in the proper direction to lift the tensioner arm away from the drive belt and install the drive belt properly under the flat idler pulley to install. Do not allow the drive belt tensioner (6B209) to snap back because this may damage the drive belt.
CAUTION: Make sure the drive belt is properly seated on all pulleys. One revolution on the engine with an incorrectly seated drive belt may snap the tensile members in the drive belt.
4. Visually inspect drive belt alignment.
5. Slowly release the drive belt tensioner toward the drive belt to tighten the drive belt and complete installation.

Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic

The drive belt tensioner will maintain correct belt tension if the correct length drive belt (8620) is on the engine (6007). To verify that the drive belt tensioner is working properly on the 4.9L, 7.3L and 7.5L engines, check to see that the belt length indicator mark on the drive belt tensioner is between the maximum and minimum marks. The 5.0L and 5.8L drive belt tensioners do not have belt length indicator marks. This belt system has a drive belt tensioner that can be improperly installed if the pivot bolt is cross-threaded in the generator mounting bracket (10153) or bent. This can result in an out-of-sheave line condition of the belt idler pulley (8678 ).
1. Check that the end of the tensioner spring is looped around the spring stop in the generator mounting bracket and can provide the 60 pound nominal output (±15 percent).
2. Check that the routing idler bolt is not cross-threaded and is tightened to 47-63 Nm (34-46 lb-ft).
3. Check that both the drive belt tensioner and belt idler pulley are parallel to each other and the sheave line.

Removal and Installation

1. Install a closed-end wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt and lift the tensioner arm away from the drive belt (8620).
2. Remove old drive belt. Release drive belt tensioner (6B209) slowly. Do not allow drive belt tensioner to snap back after the drive belt is removed because this may damage the drive belt tensioner.
3. Remove drive belt tensioner by loosening the tensioner pivot bolt.
4. Install drive belt tensioner. Tighten pivot bolt to 47-63 Nm (34-46 lb-ft).
5. CAUTION: Make sure the drive belt is properly seated on all pulleys. One revolution of the engine (6007) with an incorrectly seated drive belt may snap tensile members in the drive belt.
Install new drive belt over pulleys making sure that all belt ribs are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.

Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement
Engine . . . Tensioner . . . . . . . Replacement Pulley
4.9L/7.5L F5TE-6B209-CA E9TA-19A216-BA

Conditions requiring pulley replacement are excessive pulley wear or pulley bearing noise usually resulting from extended operation in abrasive off-road conditions.
Using a 16mm closed-end wrench, remove the drive belt (8620) according to the Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic removal procedure in this section.

Removal
NOTE: 7.5L (not F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis) bolts have a left-hand thread, requiring clockwise motion to loosen the bolts. 4.9L and 7.5L F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis idler pulley bolts, which loosen counterclockwise, have a conventional right-hand thread,

1. NOTE: Excessive rearward force on the bolt during removal may overstress and crack the tensioner arm.
NOTE: Pulleys being replaced for suspected bearing wear should be evaluated for rough bearings. Bearing noise that continues or rapidly returns after a replacement pulley is installed is usually belt chirp rather than worn bearings. Bearings should rotate smoothly with a slight resistance due to the permanent lubrication.
Using the 16mm wrench, loosen the belt idler pulley retention bolt or nut.
2. Remove bolt or nut and dust shield and remove the drive belt tensioner (6B209) from the tensioner arm locating boss.

Installation

1. Replace the pulley and reverse the removal instructions observing the correct rotation of the retention bolt.
2. Tighten bolt or nut to specifications.

Drive Belt Misalignment
CAUTION: Incorrect drive belt installation will cause excessive drive belt wear and may cause the drive belt to come off the drive pulleys.
NOTE: Original equipment drive belts are made of a special cord construction and are subjected to special testing before they are approved for use.

Replacement drive belts, other than O.E.M., may track improperly. If a replacement drive belt tracks improperly, the drive belt should be replaced with an O.E.M. drive belt to avoid performance failure or loss of drive belt during cold operation.

With the engine running, check drive belt tracking (the position of the drive belt on the drive belt tensioner). If the edge of the drive belt rides beyond the edge of the drive belt tensioner, this can cause noise and premature wear. If a drive belt tracking condition exists, visually check the drive belt tensioner for damage, especially the mounting pad surface. If the drive belt tensioner is not installed correctly with the locating pins in the locating holes, the mounting surface pad will be out of position. This will result in drive belt tension and chirp and squeal noises. If these procedures do not correct the drive belt noise, try replacing the drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt. However, the drive belt noise may return again (with mileage) if one of the above conditions still exists uncorrected.

With engine running, visually observe the grooves in the pulleys (not the pulley flanges) for excessive wobble. Replace components as required.
Check all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner for any interference that would prevent the component from mounting properly. Correct any interference condition and recheck belt tracking. Tighten all accessories mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner retaining hardware to specification. Recheck drive belt tracking.


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BeltRouting.jpg | Hits: 16647 | Size: 68.67 KB | Posted on: 1/25/06 | Link to this image


Serpentine Belt Routing & Tensioner

Use a wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt (NOT the tensioner mounting bolt) or a square drive in the hole on the tensioner arm (if provided).

Measure belt tension using the special tool after retracting & then slowly releasing the tensioner, and again after forcing the tensioner 1/2" farther, then releasing. The average of the 2 measurements is the belt tension.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nm . . . . . . Lb-Ft
Pivot Bolt, Alternator, 7.5L, All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54-71 . . . . . 40-52
Adjuster Bolt, Alternator, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20-30 . . . . . 15-22
Bolt, Automatic Tensioner-to-Bracket, 4.9L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-92 . . . . . 50-68
Bolt, Automatic Tensioner-to-Bracket, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.3L Diesel . . . 47-63 . . . . . . 35-46
Screw, Fan-to-Clutch, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-24 . . . . . 12-18
Clutch-to-Water Pump, 4.9L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53-72 . . . . . 39-53
Screw, Clutch-to-Water Pump, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-24 . . . . . 12-18
Screw, Clutch-to-Water Pump, 7.3L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113-153 . . . 84-113

Ford vehicles are equipped with poly-V drive belts (8620). To ensure maximum belt life, replacement drive belts should be of the same type and specification as originally installed. The drive belts (except for 7.5L generator belt) are tensioned by an automatic belt tensioner which maintains proper belt tension at all times. The 7.5L generator belt is not automatically tensioned and requires periodic tensioning. Loose drive belts will result in slippage that may cause a noise complaint or improper accessory operation (generator (GEN) (10300) will not charge, etc.). Overly tight drive belts will place severe loads on accessory bearings and result in premature drive belt or accessory failure.

Drive Belt Cracking/Chunking/Wear

Under severe operating conditions (high temperatures, low humidity), drive belt rib cracking can occur at less than 96,000 km (60,000 miles). Drive belt rib cracking perpendicular to the belt ribs is not a reason for concern and has no detrimental effect on belt performance. Cracks parallel to ribs are not acceptable. Drive belt chunking means that the rubber material actually chunks out between the cracks. The drive belt (8620) should be replaced if chunking occurs.

Drive Belt Noise/Flutter

Drive belt chirp is a regularly occurring chirping noise that occurs due to pulley misalignment or excessive pulley runout. It can be a result of a damaged pulley or an improperly replaced pulley that was not properly aligned. To correct, determine the area where the noise comes from. Then check each of the pulleys in that area with a straightedge to the crankshaft pulley (6312) and look for the accessory pulleys to be out of position in the fore/aft direction or at an angle to the straightedge.

Belt squeal is an intermittent noise that occurs when the drive belt slips on a pulley during certain conditions such as: engine start-up, rapid engine acceleration, or A/C clutch engagement. Drive belt squeal can occur under the following conditions:

1. If the A/C discharge pressure goes above 2895 kPa (420 psi). This can occur if:
a) The A/C system is overcharged.
b) The A/C condenser core airflow is blocked.
c) The fan blade (8600) is not engaging fully at idle.
d) If A/C OFF equalized pressure (the common discharge and suction pressure that occurs after several minutes) exceeds 965 kPa (140 psi), which is a rare occurrence at high ambient temperatures with a hot engine, turn A/C off for a few seconds and then back on after fan blade begins to cool A/C condenser core.
2. If any of the accessories are damaged, or have a worn or damaged bearing or internal torsional resistance above normal for any reason. All of the accessories should be rotatable by hand in the unloaded condition. If any are not, the accessories should be inspected.
3. If fluid gets on the drive belt. Fluids include power steering fluid, engine coolant, engine oil or air conditioning system lubricant.
4. If fluid does get on the drive belt during service, the best policy is to clean the drive belt with soap and water and thoroughly rinse with clean water. The drive belt does not have to be replaced if no apparent damage has occurred.
5. If drive belt is too long. A drive belt that is too long will allow the drive belt tensioner arm to go all the way to drive belt tensioner arm travel stop under certain load conditions, which will untension the drive belt. If the drive belt tensioner (6B209) is resting on the stop, replace the drive belt.
6. If the drive belt tensioner is worn or damaged. The drive belt tensioner arm should rotate freely without binding.

Drive Belt Replacement
Conditions requiring drive belt (8620) replacement are rib chunk out, excessive wear, severe glazing, frayed cords. Replace any drive belt exhibiting any of these conditions. Minor cracks in the ribbed side of V-grooved portion of the drive belt are considered acceptable.
NOTE: Refer to the proper serpentine drive belt routing diagram in this section, or as indicated on the underhood label, for the specific engine (6007) being serviced.

1. Route drive belt on the pulleys properly as indicated on the correct diagram. The belt span that extends past the flat belt idler pulley (8678 ) should be loose.
2. Check to see that the drive belt is positioned correctly on all pulleys. Make sure all drive belt ribs are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.
3. Install a closed-end wrench on the drive belt tensioner pulley and rotate in the proper direction to lift the tensioner arm away from the drive belt and install the drive belt properly under the flat idler pulley to install. Do not allow the drive belt tensioner (6B209) to snap back because this may damage the drive belt.
CAUTION: Make sure the drive belt is properly seated on all pulleys. One revolution on the engine with an incorrectly seated drive belt may snap the tensile members in the drive belt.
4. Visually inspect drive belt alignment.
5. Slowly release the drive belt tensioner toward the drive belt to tighten the drive belt and complete installation.

Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic

The drive belt tensioner will maintain correct belt tension if the correct length drive belt (8620) is on the engine (6007). To verify that the drive belt tensioner is working properly on the 4.9L, 7.3L and 7.5L engines, check to see that the belt length indicator mark on the drive belt tensioner is between the maximum and minimum marks. The 5.0L and 5.8L drive belt tensioners do not have belt length indicator marks. This belt system has a drive belt tensioner that can be improperly installed if the pivot bolt is cross-threaded in the generator mounting bracket (10153) or bent. This can result in an out-of-sheave line condition of the belt idler pulley (8678 ).
1. Check that the end of the tensioner spring is looped around the spring stop in the generator mounting bracket and can provide the 60 pound nominal output (±15 percent).
2. Check that the routing idler bolt is not cross-threaded and is tightened to 47-63 Nm (34-46 lb-ft).
3. Check that both the drive belt tensioner and belt idler pulley are parallel to each other and the sheave line.

Removal and Installation

1. Install a closed-end wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt and lift the tensioner arm away from the drive belt (8620).
2. Remove old drive belt. Release drive belt tensioner (6B209) slowly. Do not allow drive belt tensioner to snap back after the drive belt is removed because this may damage the drive belt tensioner.
3. Remove drive belt tensioner by loosening the tensioner pivot bolt.
4. Install drive belt tensioner. Tighten pivot bolt to 47-63 Nm (34-46 lb-ft).
5. CAUTION: Make sure the drive belt is properly seated on all pulleys. One revolution of the engine (6007) with an incorrectly seated drive belt may snap tensile members in the drive belt.
Install new drive belt over pulleys making sure that all belt ribs are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.

Belt Tensioner Pulley Replacement
Engine . . . Tensioner . . . . . . . Replacement Pulley
4.9L/7.5L F5TE-6B209-CA E9TA-19A216-BA

Conditions requiring pulley replacement are excessive pulley wear or pulley bearing noise usually resulting from extended operation in abrasive off-road conditions.
Using a 16mm closed-end wrench, remove the drive belt (8620) according to the Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic removal procedure in this section.

Removal
NOTE: 7.5L (not F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis) bolts have a left-hand thread, requiring clockwise motion to loosen the bolts. 4.9L and 7.5L F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis idler pulley bolts, which loosen counterclockwise, have a conventional right-hand thread,

1. NOTE: Excessive rearward force on the bolt during removal may overstress and crack the tensioner arm.
NOTE: Pulleys being replaced for suspected bearing wear should be evaluated for rough bearings. Bearing noise that continues or rapidly returns after a replacement pulley is installed is usually belt chirp rather than worn bearings. Bearings should rotate smoothly with a slight resistance due to the permanent lubrication.
Using the 16mm wrench, loosen the belt idler pulley retention bolt or nut.
2. Remove bolt or nut and dust shield and remove the drive belt tensioner (6B209) from the tensioner arm locating boss.

Installation

1. Replace the pulley and reverse the removal instructions observing the correct rotation of the retention bolt.
2. Tighten bolt or nut to specifications.

Drive Belt Misalignment
CAUTION: Incorrect drive belt installation will cause excessive drive belt wear and may cause the drive belt to come off the drive pulleys.
NOTE: Original equipment drive belts are made of a special cord construction and are subjected to special testing before they are approved for use.

Replacement drive belts, other than O.E.M., may track improperly. If a replacement drive belt tracks improperly, the drive belt should be replaced with an O.E.M. drive belt to avoid performance failure or loss of drive belt during cold operation.

With the engine running, check drive belt tracking (the position of the drive belt on the drive belt tensioner). If the edge of the drive belt rides beyond the edge of the drive belt tensioner, this can cause noise and premature wear. If a drive belt tracking condition exists, visually check the drive belt tensioner for damage, especially the mounting pad surface. If the drive belt tensioner is not installed correctly with the locating pins in the locating holes, the mounting surface pad will be out of position. This will result in drive belt tension and chirp and squeal noises. If these procedures do not correct the drive belt noise, try replacing the drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt. However, the drive belt noise may return again (with mileage) if one of the above conditions still exists uncorrected.

With engine running, visually observe the grooves in the pulleys (not the pulley flanges) for excessive wobble. Replace components as required.
Check all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner for any interference that would prevent the component from mounting properly. Correct any interference condition and recheck belt tracking. Tighten all accessories mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner retaining hardware to specification. Recheck drive belt tracking.

.

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PSPumpC-II.JPG | Hits: 13244 | Size: 99.24 KB | Posted on: 5/6/07 | Link to this image


C-II Power Steering Pump (E7TZ-3A674-BBRM) uses Motorcraft MERCON® ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The C-II power steering pump (3A674) is a belt-driven, slipper-type pump with a fiberglass reinforced nylon power steering oil reservoir (3A697). The power steering oil reservoir is attached to the rear side of the pump housing front plate and the power steering pump housing (3A643) is encased within the housing and reservoir. The power steering pressure hose (3A719) is attached with a quick connect fitting, located below the filler neck at the outboard side of the power steering oil reservoir. The fitting allows the line to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate an untorqued fitting.
A pressure sensitive identification tag is attached to the power steering oil reservoir. The top line of this tag indicates the basic model number and the suffix.
Note: Always use the tags when requesting service parts as there may be slight differences in internal components.

Using a Ford D79L33610A/D81T33610A or Rotunda 01400207/01400230 Power Steering System Analyzer, pressure at 74-79°C (165-175°F) should be above 1034 kPa (150 psi).

Ford C2 - - - - - - Minimum Flow @ 740 psi - - - - - - - Minimum Pressure Relief - - Maximum Pressure Relief
Pump Model - - - Liters/Minute - - Gallons/Minute - - - kPa - - - - - - - - psi - - - - - - - kPa - - - - - - psi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - 76C ~ 15C - - - 170°F ~ 5°F - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
HBC-JX (F/U) - - - - - 5.3 - - - - - - - - - - 1.4 - - - - - - - - 9650 - - - - - - 1400 - - - - - - 10550 - - - - 1530
HBC-JY (F/U) - - - - - 5.7 - - - - - - - - - - 1.5 - - - - - - - - 10000 - - - - - - 1450 - - - - - - 10550 - - - - 1530
HBC-KK (E) - - - - - - 5.3 - - - - - - - - - - 1.4 - - - - - - - - - 9650 - - - - - - 1400 - - - - - - 10550 - - - - 1530

See also:


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PSPumpZF.JPG | Hits: 7394 | Size: 61.71 KB | Posted on: 5/7/07 | Link to this image


ZF Power Steering Pump

Used on F-SuperDuty commercial chassis & motor home 7.5L


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PSPumpSaginaw.jpg | Hits: 10850 | Size: 89.16 KB | Posted on: 5/7/07 | Link to this image


Saginaw Power Steering Pump
Used on E-series & a popular swap on all others

The power steering pump (3A674) is a constant displacement vane type providing hydraulic pressure for the steering system. The power steering pump housing (3A643) and internal parts of thepower steering pump are inside the power steering oil reservoir (3A697) so the parts operate submerged in oil. The power steering oil reservoir is sealed against the power steering pump housing, leaving the housing face and power steering pump rotor shaft (3B559) exposed. The power steering oil reservoir has a filler neck with a power steering pump oil reservoir filler cap (3A006) on all models except E-Super Duty with 7.5L. On E-Super Duty the power steering oil reservoir has a nipple which provides attachment for the tube assembly power steering reservoir filler tube. The power steering pump rotor shaft is fitted with a power steering pump pulley (3A733) and is driven by a drive belt (8620) from the engine's crankshaft. The power steering pump rotor (3D607) is loosely splined to the power steering pump rotor shaft and secured with a retaining ring. Ten vanes are mounted in radial slots in the power steering pump rotor.
An identification label showing the model number for the power steering pump is located on the outboard side of the power steering oil reservoir.

Saginaw - - - - - - Minimum Flow @ 740 psi - - - - - - Minimum Pressure Relief - - - - - - Maximum Pressure Relief
Pump Model - - - Liters/Minute - - Gallons/Minute - - kPa - - - - - - - - psi - - - - - - - - - - - - kPa - - - - - - psi
- - - - - - - - - - - - 76C ~ 15C - - - -170°F ~ 5°F - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
HBA-HA - - - - - - 6.8 - - - - - - - - - - 1.8 - - - - - - - - - - 9308 - - - - - - 1350 - - - - - - - - - - - 9997 - - - - - 1450

See also:



. . .

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YorkSagV300.JPG | Hits: 4478 | Size: 71.08 KB | Posted on: 11/6/11 | Link to this image


300ci V-belt York A/C Compressor & Saginaw P/S Pump
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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SteeringBoxExploded.JPG | Hits: 6986 | Size: 86.92 KB | Posted on: 11/9/11 | Link to this image


Steering Box

See also:
. . . . . . . . . .

'80-96 Bronco PS pitman arm engineering number E2TA-3590-GA
______________________________________________

STEERING GEAR CONDITIONS:
- Feedback (rattle, chuckle, knocking noise in steering gear) Feedback is a condition that is noticed when a truck is driven over rough pavement and this roughness is felt in the steering wheel by the driver. In addition, if the gear is not adjusting properly, excessive rattle, knocking and/or chuckle noises can be heard inside the truck.

Possible Source(s):
* Gear box loose on frame.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check bolts for damage and replace as required. If bolts are not damaged, tighten mounting bolts (3) to 68-84 N-m (50-62 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Insufficient meshload.
Action(s) to Take:
* Set meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose worm race nut.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check nut for damage and replace as required. If nut is not damaged, tighten nut to 75-122 N-m (50-62 ft-lb)

Possible Source(s):
* Insufficient worm thrust bearing preload.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Damaged/omitted sector shaft bearing (gear might also exhibit external leakage from sector seals).
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing.

- Hissing Sound There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound most evident at standstill parking. There is no relationship between this noise and the performance of the steering gear.

Possible Source(s):
* "Hiss" may be expected when the steering wheel is at the end of travel or when turning it at standstill.
Action(s) to Take:
* Hiss is a normal characteristic of rotary valve steering. Do not replace the input shaft and valve assembly unless the hiss is extremely objectionable. A replacement valve will also exhibit a slight noise and is not usually a cure for the condition. Investigate for a grounded column or a loose boot at the dash panel. Any metal to metal contacts will transmit valve hiss into the passenger compartment through the steering column. Verify clearance between flexible coupling components. Be sure steering column shaft and gear are aligned so flexible coupling rotates in a flat plane and is not distorted as shaft rotates.

- Front End Wander Front end wander is a condition that is noticed when the vehicle is driven in a straight ahead position with the wheel held in a firm position, but the vehicle wanders to either the right or left side. Front end alignment should be checked before any gear service is made.
NOTE: Front end alignment and tire pressures should be checked before any gear service is performed.

Possible Source(s):
* Gear box loose on frame.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check mounting bolts for damage and replace if required. If no damage is found, tighten bolts to 73-90 N-m (54-66 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Incorrect meshload.
Action(s) to Take:
Set meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose race locknut.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check race locknut for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten nut to 75-122 N-m (55-90 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Insufficient worm thrust bearing preload.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Damaged sector shaft bearing (gear might also exhibit external leakage from sector seals).
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Center lash.
Action(s) to Take:
* Improper fit of worm to piston. Replace valve assembly (be certain to check meshload prior to replacing valve for center lash).

- Heavy Steering Efforts, Poor assist (both directions)

Possible Source(s):
* Low steering system fluid fill.
Action(s) to Take:
* Add steering fluid to proper level.

Possible Source(s):
* Engine idle too low.
Action(s) to Take:
* Set engine idle to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Low power steering pump belt tension.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check belt tension and set to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Pump flow/relief pressure not to specification.
Action(s) to Take:
* Test pump and service as necessary.

Possible Source(s):
* External leakage resulting in low fluid level.
Action(s) to Take:
* Refer to Ford Power Steering Gear Leak Inspection for external leak diagnosis.

Possible Source(s):
* Piston Teflon® seal cut or twisted.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace piston Teflon® seal.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose/missing rubber backup piston O-ring.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace/install rubber backup piston O-ring.

Possible Source(s):
* Valve/gear housing oil passages blocked.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing or valve housing as required.

Possible Source(s):
* Leakage past piston end cap.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check piston end cap for damage. If no damage is found, tighten piston end cap to 95-149 N-m (70-110 ft-lb). If damage is found, replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Porosity in the piston bore (housing casting).
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing.

Possible Source(s):
* Porosity in piston.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Valve sleeve Teflon® seal(s) damaged.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve sleeve Teflon® seal(s).

- External Leakage: One of the most common conditions causing repeat repairs is fluid leaks. Make sure you clean the steering gear first before any steering gear external leakage checks are performed.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose hose fittings.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check hose fittings for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten fittings to specification.


Possible Source(s):
* Missing/damaged hose fitting tube seats.
Action(s) to Take:
* Install/replace tube seats.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak from input shaft seal.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace input shaft seal. Check shaft for damage. Check housing bore for porosity or damage.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at valve mounting face.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check bolts for proper torque. Replace valve housing O-ring(s).

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at sector adjuster screw locknut.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check locknut for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten locknut to 48-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at sector shaft seal.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace sector seals and examine sector shaft for pitting or corrosion. Replace sector shaft if necessary. Check housing seal bore for porosity or damage. Replace housing if necessary.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak from gear housing.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at sector cover face, or cracked sector cover.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check bolt torques. Check O-ring seal and system relief pressure.

- Poor Returnability -- Sticky Feeling Poor returnability is a condition that is noticed when the vehicle is in a turn and returns to center with effort from the driver. In addition, when the driver returns the steering wheel to center, it may have a sticky or catchy feel.

Possible Source(s):
* Meshload set too tight.
Action(s) to Take:
* Reset meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Sector adjuster not properly staked to sector.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace sector assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Damaged input shaft bearing.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Binding in valve assembly.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steering Box Preload Adjustment (NOT to compensate for wear or slop)

1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using a Pitman Arm Puller (Tool T64P-3590-F).

2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line nipple to retain the fluid in the reservoir.

3. Place the end of the return line in a suitable container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid.

4. Turn the steering wheel to the right stop, then back left 45 degrees.

5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn (45%uFFFD) toward center from the initial 45 degree position. Note this first value.

6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position (%uFFFD 90%uFFFD). Compare the center value to the first value, using the following criteria:
* Vehicles with less than 5,000 miles (8046 Km):
If total meshload over mechanical center is less than 15 in-lb (1.7 Nm) or greater than 24 in-lb (2.7 Nm), RESET to first value PLUS 11-15 in-lb (1.2-1.7 Nm).
* Vehicles with more than 5,000 miles (8046 Km), or with new sector shaft:
If meshload over mechanical center is NOT 7 in-lb (0.8 Nm) GREATER than the first value, RESET to 10-14 in-lb (1.13-1.6 Nm) GREATER than first value.

7. If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft screw in place, and tighten the locknut.

8. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover.

9. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specification with the specified fluid. Check belt tension & adjust if necessary.

Do not pry against the reservoir to obtain proper belt load. Pressure will deform the reservoir and cause it to leak.

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StrgBoxFlow.JPG | Hits: 3832 | Size: 60.03 KB | Posted on: 9/30/13 | Link to this image


Steering Box Flow

Brown is high pressure; tan is low pressure.

'80-96 Bronco PS pitman arm engineering number E2TA-3590-GA

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Ford Integral Power Steering Gear Box

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

'80-96 Bronco PS pitman arm engineering number E2TA-3590-GA
______________________________________________

STEERING GEAR CONDITIONS:
- Feedback (rattle, chuckle, knocking noise in steering gear) Feedback is a condition that is noticed when a truck is driven over rough pavement and this roughness is felt in the steering wheel by the driver. In addition, if the gear is not adjusting properly, excessive rattle, knocking and/or chuckle noises can be heard inside the truck.

Possible Source(s):
* Gear box loose on frame.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check bolts for damage and replace as required. If bolts are not damaged, tighten mounting bolts (3) to 68-84 N-m (50-62 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Insufficient meshload.
Action(s) to Take:
* Set meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose worm race nut.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check nut for damage and replace as required. If nut is not damaged, tighten nut to 75-122 N-m (50-62 ft-lb)

Possible Source(s):
* Insufficient worm thrust bearing preload.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Damaged/omitted sector shaft bearing (gear might also exhibit external leakage from sector seals).
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing.

- Hissing Sound There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound most evident at standstill parking. There is no relationship between this noise and the performance of the steering gear.

Possible Source(s):
* "Hiss" may be expected when the steering wheel is at the end of travel or when turning it at standstill.
Action(s) to Take:
* Hiss is a normal characteristic of rotary valve steering. Do not replace the input shaft and valve assembly unless the hiss is extremely objectionable. A replacement valve will also exhibit a slight noise and is not usually a cure for the condition. Investigate for a grounded column or a loose boot at the dash panel. Any metal to metal contacts will transmit valve hiss into the passenger compartment through the steering column. Verify clearance between flexible coupling components. Be sure steering column shaft and gear are aligned so flexible coupling rotates in a flat plane and is not distorted as shaft rotates.

- Front End Wander Front end wander is a condition that is noticed when the vehicle is driven in a straight ahead position with the wheel held in a firm position, but the vehicle wanders to either the right or left side. Front end alignment should be checked before any gear service is made.
NOTE: Front end alignment and tire pressures should be checked before any gear service is performed.

Possible Source(s):
* Gear box loose on frame.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check mounting bolts for damage and replace if required. If no damage is found, tighten bolts to 73-90 N-m (54-66 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Incorrect meshload.
Action(s) to Take:
Set meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose race locknut.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check race locknut for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten nut to 75-122 N-m (55-90 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Insufficient worm thrust bearing preload.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Damaged sector shaft bearing (gear might also exhibit external leakage from sector seals).
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Center lash.
Action(s) to Take:
* Improper fit of worm to piston. Replace valve assembly (be certain to check meshload prior to replacing valve for center lash).

- Heavy Steering Efforts, Poor assist (both directions)

Possible Source(s):
* Low steering system fluid fill.
Action(s) to Take:
* Add steering fluid to proper level.

Possible Source(s):
* Engine idle too low.
Action(s) to Take:
* Set engine idle to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Low power steering pump belt tension.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check belt tension and set to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Pump flow/relief pressure not to specification.
Action(s) to Take:
* Test pump and service as necessary.

Possible Source(s):
* External leakage resulting in low fluid level.
Action(s) to Take:
* Refer to Ford Power Steering Gear Leak Inspection for external leak diagnosis.

Possible Source(s):
* Piston Teflon® seal cut or twisted.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace piston Teflon® seal.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose/missing rubber backup piston O-ring.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace/install rubber backup piston O-ring.

Possible Source(s):
* Valve/gear housing oil passages blocked.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing or valve housing as required.

Possible Source(s):
* Leakage past piston end cap.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check piston end cap for damage. If no damage is found, tighten piston end cap to 95-149 N-m (70-110 ft-lb). If damage is found, replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Porosity in the piston bore (housing casting).
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing.

Possible Source(s):
* Porosity in piston.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Valve sleeve Teflon® seal(s) damaged.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve sleeve Teflon® seal(s).

- External Leakage: One of the most common conditions causing repeat repairs is fluid leaks. Make sure you clean the steering gear first before any steering gear external leakage checks are performed.

Possible Source(s):
* Loose hose fittings.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check hose fittings for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten fittings to specification.


Possible Source(s):
* Missing/damaged hose fitting tube seats.
Action(s) to Take:
* Install/replace tube seats.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak from input shaft seal.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace input shaft seal. Check shaft for damage. Check housing bore for porosity or damage.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at valve mounting face.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check bolts for proper torque. Replace valve housing O-ring(s).

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at sector adjuster screw locknut.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check locknut for damage and replace as required. If no damage is found, tighten locknut to 48-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb).

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at sector shaft seal.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace sector seals and examine sector shaft for pitting or corrosion. Replace sector shaft if necessary. Check housing seal bore for porosity or damage. Replace housing if necessary.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak from gear housing.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace gear housing.

Possible Source(s):
* Leak at sector cover face, or cracked sector cover.
Action(s) to Take:
* Check bolt torques. Check O-ring seal and system relief pressure.

- Poor Returnability -- Sticky Feeling Poor returnability is a condition that is noticed when the vehicle is in a turn and returns to center with effort from the driver. In addition, when the driver returns the steering wheel to center, it may have a sticky or catchy feel.

Possible Source(s):
* Meshload set too tight.
Action(s) to Take:
* Reset meshload to specification.

Possible Source(s):
* Sector adjuster not properly staked to sector.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace sector assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Damaged input shaft bearing.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.

Possible Source(s):
* Binding in valve assembly.
Action(s) to Take:
* Replace valve assembly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steering Box Preload Adjustment (NOT to compensate for wear or slop)

1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using a Pitman Arm Puller (Tool T64P-3590-F).

2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line nipple to retain the fluid in the reservoir.

3. Place the end of the return line in a suitable container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid.

4. Turn the steering wheel to the right stop, then back left 45 degrees.

5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn (45°) toward center from the initial 45 degree position. Note this first value.

6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position (± 90°). Compare the center value to the first value, using the following criteria:
* Vehicles with less than 5,000 miles (8046 Km):
If total meshload over mechanical center is less than 15 in-lb (1.7 Nm) or greater than 24 in-lb (2.7 Nm), RESET to first value PLUS 11-15 in-lb (1.2-1.7 Nm).
* Vehicles with more than 5,000 miles (8046 Km), or with new sector shaft:
If meshload over mechanical center is NOT 7 in-lb (0.8 Nm) GREATER than the first value, RESET to 10-14 in-lb (1.13-1.6 Nm) GREATER than first value.

7. If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft screw in place, and tighten the locknut.

8. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover.

9. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specification with the specified fluid. Check belt tension & adjust if necessary.

Do not pry against the reservoir to obtain proper belt load. Pressure will deform the reservoir and cause it to leak.

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Diagnostic Link Connectors for EEC-IV processors ('84-95).
'84-86 (red) located on R wheelwell near starter relay.
'87-95 (black or gray) located under L hood hinge under EEC TEST cover. (WPT-743 & WPT-352)
'94-96 Bronco - do not confuse with RED 4WABS connector also under L hood hinge

'96-up use OBD-II, and this DLC:
.

Connect FP Relay (terminal A) to any ground (like terminal E) to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN.

. .

Pins D & F are a primitive SCP bus, but on these old vehicles, nothing else was networked in.

After warming up the engine, connect pin 1 (209 W/Pu) to any ground (like terminal E) with any jumper wire (like a paperclip) to trigger diagnostic modes. (See the NEXT diagram.) Consult the 7th post on this page or scroll down here for the compete procedure to pull codes & trigger all test modes. If the CEL is burned out, connect CEL (C) to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a positive 12V source on the same vehicle.

To hardwire a self-test switch in the dash, see:


Automotive Terms & Abbreviations
EEC-IV DTC definition list

No matter what code you get, DON'T PICK THE NAME OF A PART OUT of the code definition - read the WHOLE definition, and then confirm the condition it indicates. If the condition doesn't exist, clear the code and see how long it takes to re-set that code. If the condition DOES exist, learn about the system to identify EVERY possible cause of the condition. For example: if the EVP doesn't indicate the EGR is opening, that doesn't mean to replace either of them. It could simply be a vacuum leak in one of the lines, or the reservoir. No EEC can output both 2-digit AND 3-digit codes, so if you read them that way, you're reading them wrong. Aftermarket scantools for Ford EEC-IV are notorious for delivering nonexistent codes, so don't waste your time or money on them. A jumper wire will always produce usable results.

If spurious or false codes are delivered (codes whose indicated conditions DON'T exist), remove the EEC & inspect its PC board for leaking capacitors.



For voltage faults &/or contradictory faults, repair the battery terminals first:



Conditions: o = Key On Engine Off (KOEO), r = Engine Running (KOER), c = Continuous Memory
NO CODES Unable to initiate Self-Test or unable to output Self-Test codes (replace MIL bulb, inspect PC board inside EEC, read TSB below)
---------2-digit codes used until 1991---------
11 orc System PASS
12 -r- Cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
13 -r- Cannot control rpm during Self-Test low rpm check
14 --c PIP circuit failure (gas); tach sensor failure (diesel)
15 o-- EEC processor Read Only Memory (ROM) test failed
15 --c EEC processor Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
18 -r- SPOUT circuit open
18 --c Loss of IDM input to processor/SPOUT circuit grounded
19 o-- Failure in EEC processor internal voltage
21 or- Engine Cooling Temperature (ECT) sensor out of Self-Test range (engine not warmed up before test)
22 orc Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor out of Self-Test range
23 orc Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of Self-Test range
24 or- Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor out of Self-Test range
25 -r- Knock not sensed during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
26 or- Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) out of Self-Test range (engine not warmed up before test)
29 --c Insufficient Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS) input
31 orc EVP circuit below minimum voltage
32 orc EVP voltage below closed limit
33 -rc EGR valve opening not detected (no change in EVP when EVR activated)
34 orc EVP voltage above closed limit
35 orc EVP circuit above maximum voltage
41 -r- HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean
41 --c No HEGO switching detected
42 -r- HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich
43 --c Throttle Position (TP) sensor below idle spec
44 -r- Thermactor air system inoperative (TAB or TAD open circuit)
45 -r- Thermactor air upstream/misdirected during KOER
46 -r- Thermactor air not bypassed during KOER
47 o-- 4x4 switch closed during test (operator error)
49 --c 1-2 Shift error
51 o-c ECT indicated -40%uFFFDC (-40%uFFFDF)/circuit open
52 o-- Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS) circuit open
52 -r- PSPS circuit did not change states during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
53 o-c TP above maximum voltage
54 o-c ACT indicated -40%uFFFDC (-40%uFFFDF)/circuit open
56 o-c Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) indicated -40%uFFFDC (-40%uFFFDF)/circuit open
59 --c 2-3 Shift error
61 o-c ECT indicated 123%uFFFDC (254%uFFFDF)/circuit grounded
62 --c Torque Converter Clutch error
63 o-c TP circuit below minimum voltage
64 o-c ACT indicated 123%uFFFDC (254%uFFFDF)/circuit grounded
65 -r- Transmission Control Switch (TCS) circuit did not change states during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
66 o-c Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) indicated 143%uFFFDC (290%uFFFDF)/circuit grounded
67 o-- Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) circuit open; A/C or Defrost on (Manual) during test (operator error)
68 --c Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) transmission over temp (over-heated)
69 --c 3-4 Shift error
72 -r- Insufficient MAP change during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
73 -r- Insufficient TP change during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
74 -rc Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit open or not actuated during Self-Test (operator error)
77 -r- Operator error during Dynamic Response Test
81 o-- Air Management 2 (AM2/TAD) circuit failure
82 o-- Air Management 1 (AM1/TAB) circuit failure
84 o-- EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure
85 o-- Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure
87 o-c Primary fuel pump circuit failure
91 o-- Shift Solenoid 1 (SS1) circuit failure
92 o-- Shift Solenoid 2 (SS2) circuit failure
93 o-- Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) circuit failure
94 o-- Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure
95 o-c Fuel Pump circuit open - EEC processor to motor ground (fuel pump unplugged or wiring damage)
96 o-c Fuel Pump circuit open - battery to EEC processor (inertia switch tripped or FP relay failed)
97 o-- Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) circuit failure
98 -r- Hard fault present
99 o-c Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) circuit failure
2-digit codes------------1991------------3-digit codes
.
111 orc System PASS
112 oc ACT indicated 123°C (254°F)/circuit grounded
113 oc ACT indicated -40°C (-40°F)/circuit open
114 or Air Charge Temperature (ACT) Sensor out of Self-Test range
116 or Engine Cooling Temperature (ECT) Sensor out of Self-Test range (engine not warmed up before test)
117 oc ECT indicated 123°C (254°F)/circuit grounded
118 oc ECT indicated -40°C (-40°F)/circuit open
121 orc Throttle Position (TP) Sensor out of Self-Test range
121 rc Throttle position voltage inconsistent with MAF sensor (vacuum leak downstream of MAF)
122 oc TP circuit below minimum voltage
123 oc TP above maximum voltage
124 rc Throttle Position (TP) sensor voltage higher than expected
125 rc Throttle Position (TP) sensor voltage lower than expected
126 orc Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor out of Self-Test range
128 c MAP vacuum circuit failure
129 r Insufficient MAP change during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
136 c System indicates lean (Bank #2)
137 r System indicates lean (Bank #2)
157 orc Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit below minimum voltage
158 orc Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit above maximum voltage
159 orc Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit voltage higher or lower than expected
167 r Insufficient TP change during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
171 c Fuel system at adaptive limits, Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) unable to switch, Bank 1
172 rc Lack of Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) switches, indicates lean, Bank 1
173 rc Lack of Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) switches, indicates rich, Bank 1
175 c Fuel system at adaptive limits, Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) unable to switch, Bank 2
176 rc Lack of Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) switches, indicates lean, Bank 2
177 rc Lack of Oxygen Sensor (HEGO) switches, indicates rich, Bank 2
179 c Fuel system at lean adaptive limit at part throttle, system rich, Bank 1
181 c Fuel system at rich adaptive limit at part throttle, system lean, Bank 1
184 orc Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor voltage higher than expected
185 orc Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor voltage lower than expected
186 orc Injector pulsewidth higher than expected (with BARO/MAP sensor)
186 orc Injector pulsewidth higher or mass air flow lower than expected (without BARO/MAP sensor)
187 orc Injector pulsewidth lower than expected (with BARO/MAP sensor)
187 orc Injector pulsewidth lower or mass air flow higher than expected (without BARO/MAP sensor)
188 c Fuel system at lean adaptive limit at part throttle, system rich (Bank #2)
189 c Fuel system at rich adaptive limit at part throttle, system lean (Bank #2)
211 c PIP circuit failure
212 c Loss of IDM input to processor/SPOUT circuit grounded
213 r SPOUT circuit open
214 orc Cylinder Identification (CID/CPS) circuit failure
215 orc PCM detected coil 1 primary circuit failure (EI/EDIS)
216 orc PCM detected coil 2 primary circuit failure (EI/EDIS)
217 orc PCM detected coil 3 primary circuit failure (EI/EDIS)
218 orc Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal-left side (dual plug EI/EDIS)
222 orc Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal-right side (dual plug EI/EDIS)
223 orc Loss of Dual Plug Inhibit (DPI) control (dual plug EI/EDIS)
224 orc PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3 or 4 primary circuit failure (dual plug EI/EDIS)
225 r Knock not sensed during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
226 orc Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal not received (EI/EDIS)
232 orc PCM detected coil 1, 2, 3 or 4 primary circuit failure (EI/EDIS)
311 r Thermactor air system inoperative (Bank #1 w/dual HO2S)
312 r Thermactor air upstream/misdirected
313 r Thermactor air not bypassed
327 orc EVP circuit below minimum voltage
328 orc EVP voltage below closed limit
332 rc EGR valve opening not detected
334 orc EVP voltage above closed limit
334 orc EVP closed voltage higher than expected
335 o EGR (PFE) sensor voltage higher or lower than expected
336 orc Exhaust pressure high; PFE/DPFE circuit voltage higher than expected
337 orc EGR (EVP/PFE) circuit above maximum voltage
341 orc Octane adjust service pin open
411 r Cannot control rpm during low rpm check
412 r Cannot control rpm during high rpm check
452 c Insufficient Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS) input
511 o EEC processor Read Only Memory (ROM) test failed
512 c EEC processor Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
513 o Failure in EEC processor internal voltage
519 o Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch circuit open
521 r Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch circuit did not change states (operator error)
522 o Vehicle not in PARK or NEUTRAL during KOEO test (operator error)
528 c Clutch switch circuit failure
536 r Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit failure/not actuated during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
538 r Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (operator error)
538 r (SFI engines only) Invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (operator error)
538 r (SFI engines only) Invalid cylinder balance test due to CID circuit failure
539 or A/C on/Defrost on during test (operator error)
542 oc Fuel Pump circuit open - EEC processor to pump motor (no ground with FP relay OFF)
543 oc Fuel Pump circuit open - battery to EEC processor (no power with FP relay ON)
551 o Idle Air Control (IAC) circuit failure
552 o Air Management 1 (AM1/TAB) circuit failure
553 o Air Management 2 (AM2/TAD) circuit failure
556 oc Primary fuel pump circuit failure
558 o EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure
565 o Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure
566 o 3-4 shift solenoid circuit failure (A4LD)
569 orc Auxiliary Canister Purge (AUX-CANP) circuit failure
617 orc 1-2 shift error
618 orc 2-3 shift error
619 orc 3-4 shift error
621 o Shift Solenoid 1 (SS1) circuit failure
622 o Shift Solenoid 2 (SS2) circuit failure
624 orc Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) circuit failure
625 orc Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) driver open in PCM
626 o Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) circuit failure
628 rc Excessive converter clutch slippage
629 o Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure
631 orc Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) circuit failure
632 r Transmission Control Switch (TCS) circuit did not change states (operator error)
633 o 4x4L (Low) switch closed (operator error)
634 orc Transmission Range (TR) voltage higher or lower than expected
636 orc Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) higher or lower than expected
637 orc Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) sensor circuit above maximum voltage/-40°F indicated
638 orc Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) sensor circuit below minimum voltage/290°F indicated
639 c Insufficient input from Transmission Speed Sensor (TSS)
641 o Shift Solenoid 3 (SS3) circuit failure
643 o Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) circuit failure
652 orc Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid circuit failure
654 or Transmission Range (TR) sensor indicating not in PARK during Self-Test (operator error or MLPS failed or shift linkage out of adjustment)
655 or Transmission Range (TR) sensor indicating not in NEUTRAL during Self-Test (operator error or MLPS failed or shift linkage out of adjustment)
656 c Torque Converter Clutch slippage error
657 orc Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) over temperature
667 orc Transmission Range (TR) circuit voltage below minimum voltage
668 orc Transmission Range (TR) circuit voltage above maximum voltage
691 orc 4X4 Low switch open or short circuit
692 rc Transmission state does not match calculated ratio
998 r Hard fault present, FMEM mode
NO CODES Unable to initiate Self-Test or unable to output Self-Test codes (replace MIL bulb, inspect PC board inside EEC, read TSB below)

Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

__________________________________________

TSB 92-24-03 Explanation of 3-Digit Codes & MIL

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 18, 1992

FORD: 1991-93 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, PROBE, TAURUS, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1991-92 MARK VII
1991-93 CONTINENTAL, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOPAZ, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1993 MARK VIII
LIGHT TRUCK: 1991-93 AEROSTAR, BRONCO, ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES, RANGER

ISSUE: Occasionally, there are reports of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Check Engine" Lamp (CEL) or "Service Engine Soon" (SES) lamp being lit with no Self-Test codes in Continuous Memory. An explanation of three digit EEC IV Self-Test Codes has been developed along with reasons for the MIL lamp being lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.

ACTION: Refer to the following explanation of three digit EEC IV Self Test Codes to determine why the MIL lamp is sometimes lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.


OVERVIEW OF THREE DIGIT EEC IV SELF-TEST CODES

Ford went from two digit to three digit EEC IV Self-Test codes in 1991 to service the increasing number of service codes required to support various government On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) regulations. The phase-in from two digit to three digit codes started in the 1991 model year and is largely complete except for some medium/heavy trucks that will retain two digit codes through the 1994 model year.

MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

Following is a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.

1) Technician Not Familiar With Self-Test Code Output
There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and Key On Engine Running (KOER). While both of these will test for various "hard faults" that are present when the test is run, the processor continuously monitors various operating parameters whenever the engine is running. If the processor detects a problem, it will store a "Continuous Memory" code and light the MIL. These Continuous Memory codes are put out during KOEO Self-Test after any codes associated with hard faults are output.

Self-Test Codes are displayed by flashing the MIL. They are also output as voltage pulses on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit in the Self-Test connector. In either Self-Test mode, all codes are output twice and in KOEO, the hard fault codes are separated from the Continuous Memory codes by a "separator" pulse.

A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (lll) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (lll) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes.

2) Inadvertent Erasure Of Continuous Memory Self-Test Codes
Continuous Memory Self-Test codes are erased by ungrounding STI before KOEO Self-Test is complete and all KOEO and Continuous Memory codes have been displayed. It is possible to inadvertently erase Continuous Memory codes by ungrounding STI without realizing that KOEO Self-Test is not complete or the processor has not finished displaying all the codes.

The EEC Self-Test codes are not only used by service technicians, they are used as a final system test in the assembly plants. To make this test as efficient as possible, Self-Test codes are output as a very fast, short pulsewidth signal before the codes are displayed by the flashing MIL. These "FAST" codes can only be interpreted by end-of-line equipment or code-reading testers like Ford's Self-Test Automatic Readout (STAR) testers.

The EEC IV processor puts out both 2-digit and 3-digit Self-Test codes in both formats, "FAST" pulsewidth mode and "SLOW" pulsewidth mode. While all "STAR" type testers display 2-digit codes, the original STAR tester cannot display 3-digit service codes. If the STAR tester is used on 3-digit service code applications, the display will be blank but the tester will beep. The beeps can be counted to determine service codes. The SUPER STAR II tester will only display 3-digit service codes in "FAST" code mode. If slow code mode is used on 3-digit service code applications, the display will be blank but the tester will beep. The beeps can be counted to determine service codes. For more information on running Self-Test, refer to the "EEC IV Quick Test Procedures and Appendix" section of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Service Manual.

Since certain STAR testers are capable of reading and displaying fast codes before the slow codes are finished being output on the MIL, a technician can assume that since he sees codes displayed, he can unground STI and move on. If he ungrounds STI before all slow codes are output, Continuous Memory will be erased and could put out a pass code (ll/lll) the next time KOEO Self-Test is run. The technician may also realize that his tester is in "SLOW" mode after he has initiated the KOEO test and stop the test to change tester settings. Another possibility is that another person, a vehicle owner or another technician, could have erased the codes before the technician reporting the situation has run Self-Test. In any of these situations, the vehicle must be driven until the Continuous Memory codes are reset.

3) The Concern That Set The Continuous Memory Code Is No Longer Present
The EEC processor will erase a Continuous Memory code if the concern that caused it has not been present for 40 or 80 warm-up cycles, depending on the vehicle. A warm-up cycle occurs when the vehicle is started with the coolant temperature below 120° F (49° C) and then shutdown with the coolant temperature above 150° F (66° C). If a vehicle is brought in for service with a MIL complaint and the vehicle is driven or otherwise allowed to warm-up before Self-Test is run, the code may be cleared before the technician tests it.

4) Grounded STO/MIL Circuit
The processor controls the MIL by grounding the STO/MIL circuit (Pin 17). If this circuit shorts to ground, whether the processor is controlling it or not, the MIL will be lit. Starting in 1991, if the processor has lit the MIL, it will hold it on for a minimum of 10 seconds. If the MIL flashes quickly, the concern is probably the STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground.

5) Engine Running In HLOS
The EEC processor will enter Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) if it detects a problem that could cause further damage to the system. Under HLOS, the processor modifies its operating strategy so that certain functions are disabled but the vehicle can be safely driven in for service. If the vehicle is in HLOS, Continuous Memory codes will not be set and Self-Test cannot be initiated. However, Continuous codes that were set before the processor entered HLOS will be retained.

6) Misinterpretation Of MIL Bulb Check
The MIL will light as a bulb check if the key is on and the engine is not running. If the engine is running and stalls or stops for any reason with the key on, the MIL will be lit and no Continuous Memory codes will be set. When the key is first turned on, the MIL will stay lit briefly after the engine is started as part of the bulb check feature.

7) MIL Flashes During Self-Test
The circuit that controls the MIL is also the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit that goes to the Self-Test connector. The MIL will flash during Self-Test as the STO circuit is cycled on and off. This is normal and no Continuous codes are set.

8 ) Processor KAM Is Erased Or Fails
The Keep Alive Memory (KAM) within the processor must always have voltage supplied to it. This voltage is supplied by the Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) circuit (Pin 1) that connects directly to the battery. KAM contains adaptive parameter tables that allow the processor to adapt to different operating requirements. It also contains the Continuous Memory codes. Continuous Memory codes will be erased any time KAPWR is disconnected (i.e. battery disconnected, processor disconnected, breakout box installed, open in the wire, etc.). If KAM fails within the processor, all Continuous codes will also be erased.

9) Damaged STAR Tester
A damaged STAR tester can produce erroneous code output or accidentally erase Continuous Memory.

10) KOEO Processor RAM Test Failed
The processor's Random Access Memory (RAM) is tested during KOEO Self-Test. If the processor's RAM has failed, the MIL will light and no codes are output.

11) Intermittent VSS Fault Detected In Wiggle Mode
If in wiggle mode (STI grounded) and an intermittent Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) fault is detected, the MIL can be lit momentarily. If the VSS signal returns to normal, the associated code is erased. In normal operation, the VSS will not light the MIL.

12) IDM Pulsewidth Not Recognized By Processor (EDIS Vehicles)
EDIS vehicles can have the MIL on with no Continuous codes if the processor does not recognize the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) pulsewidth. In this case, coil pack failure codes may not be set since the fault filters can be erased before they reach the threshold that sets the code.

13) Intermittent Ignition System Fault
Vehicles with a Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor can light the MIL with no Continuous codes present if an intermittent ignition system fault is present long enough to activate the MIL and then goes away. The CID sensor can indicate that the fault was momentary and clear the coil pack faults but the CID fault may not register if the fault goes away fast enough.

14) Intermittent Open STI Circuit
If the Self-Test Input (STI) circuit opened during KOEO Self-Test or code output, Continuous Memory would be cleared.

15) Power Lost To EEC Processor
On some applications, the processor can lose power while the MIL stays powered. The MIL can light if a ground path is present through the processor.

16) Other Warning Lamps Mistaken For MIL
The MIL can sometimes be confused with other warning lamps like the amber Air Bag lamp if they are located near each other in the dash panel.

17) Development Testing Or Wrong Processor Released To Production
The MIL can be lit without Continuous codes during testing or if the wrong processor is installed.

SUPERSEDES: 92-4-4
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

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TSB 88-05-07 MIL Introduction

Publication Date: MARCH 2, 1988

FORD: 1988 ALL CAR LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1988 ALL CAR LINES
MERKUR: 1988 ALL CAR LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1988 ALL LIGHT TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is a new feature that has been added to 1988 vehicles. Vehicle applications follow. The MIL (Check Engine Light/CEL) is active when the engine system requires service. An explanation of how and when the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) operates may need to be explained to some vehicle owners.

ACTION: Use the following service information to explain the operation of the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) to resolve customer concerns.

NOTE: IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO IMMEDIATELY TURN OFF THE ENGINE OR HAVE THE VEHICLE TOWED WHEN THE "CHECK ENGINE" (MIL) LIGHT COMES ON.

Vehicles Equipped with EEC IV
The CHECK ENGINE light will come on while engine is operating in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) or Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) modes. The light will stay on as long as the fault causing it is present.

In FMEM mode, the computer is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode, the computer uses an alternate strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The following chart lists the system faults which will turn on the CHECK ENGINE light in this mode. The error code associated with this system fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and vehicle will return to normal vehicle strategy. The error code stored when the light was on was not erased. This code is one of the continuous error codes and can be accessed by running the KOEO self-test.

HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced.
NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES.

The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal.

To service a MIL concern, use the appropriate Engine/Emission Diagnosis Shop Manual. If the vehicle has no drive problems, the MIL is on, and no codes are found in memory, follow diagnostics by symptom in the Engine/Emission Diagnosis Shop Manual.

Non-EEC IV Vehicles
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) alerts the customer that 60,000 mile emission system maintained is required. To service a MIL concern on a non-EEC IV vehicle, refer to the Engine/Emission Diagnostic Shop Manual.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
_____________________________________________
Pulling EEC-IV codes ('84-95 EFI)

This is from the Ford Service CD, but I've edited & reorganized it so it's easier to follow. I deleted the info about the STAR testers since I doubt anyone has one and doesn't know how to use it.

Self-Test Description

The Self-Test is divided into three specialized tests: Key On Engine Off Self-Test, Engine Running Self-Test, and Continuous Self-Test. The Self-Test is not a conclusive test by itself, but is used as a part of the functional Quick-Test diagnostic procedure. The PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

Continuous Self-Test
· Continuous Memory DTCs are issued as a result of information stored during Continuous Self-Test, while the vehicle was in normal operation. These DTCs are displayed only during Key On Engine Off Self-Test and after the separator pulse. Intermittent faults that have not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) are erased from Continuous Memory and will not produce a Continuous Memory DTC.
· During this mode of testing the PCM continuously monitors inputs for opens and shorts. The Continuous Memory DTCs must be retrieved within 40 (for some applications) or 80 engine temperature warm up cycles. On the 41st or 81st Engine Temperature cycle, the DTC will be automatically erased. The Continuous Memory DTCs can also be erased by deactivating Self-Test while the DTCs are being outputted.

The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests are functional tests which only detect faults present at the time of the Self-Test. Continuous Self-Test is performed during normal vehicle operation and stores any fault information in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) for retrieval at a later time.


Special Notes:
· The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests detect faults that are present at the time of testing. Faults that occur only when the vehicle is operating or intermittent faults that have occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles are detected during Continuous Self-Test, stored in Continuous Memory and displayed during Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
· When directed to a Pinpoint Test, always read the cover page(s) for special notes and look carefully at the Pinpoint Test Schematic.
· After service, rerun Quick Test to ensure that service was effective.
· It may be necessary to disconnect or disassemble harness connector assemblies to do some of the inspections. Pin locations should be noted before disassembly.


Visual Check
1. Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2. Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3. Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4. Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage.
5. Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6. Check the transmission fluid level and quality.
7. Make all necessary repairs before continuing with QUICK TEST.


Vehicle Preparation and Equipment Hookup

Vehicle Preparation
1. Perform ALL safety steps required to start and run vehicle tests - apply parking brake, put shift lever firmly in PARK position (NEUTRAL on manual transmission), block drive wheels, etc.
2. Turn off ALL electrical loads--radios, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc.

Using an Analog Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM)
1. Turn the ignition key off.
2. Set the VOM on a DC voltage range to read from 0 to 15 volts.
3. Connect the VOM from the battery positive post to the Self-Test Output pin of the large Data Link Connector (DLC) (Figure 3).
4. Connect the timing light.


Using the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC). (This is where you can use a paperclip.)

Using the Message Center on Continental Applications Only
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).

Using the Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) on 7.3L Diesel Engines Only
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).


Key On Engine Off Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with power applied and engine at rest. To detect errors during Key On Engine Off Self-Test, the fault must be present at the time of testing.

Special Notes:
· Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) recorded in this step will be used for diagnosis after a PASS code 11 or 111 is received in both the Key On Engine Off and the Engine Running Self-Tests.
· Deviation from this procedure may cause the output of false DTCs.
· On all vehicles equipped with a 4.9L ENGINE, the clutch must be depressed during the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
· On all vehicles equipped with a 7.3L DIESEL ENGINE, the throttle must be depressed (WOT) during the entire Key On Engine Off Self-Test.


How To Run The Key On Engine Off Self-Test
DO:
· Verify that the vehicle has been properly prepared.
· Start engine and run until it reaches operating temperature.
· Turn engine off and wait 10 seconds.
· Activate Self-Test.
. . Analog VOM: Jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors.
. . Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors. DTCs will be flashed on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
. . Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) 7.3L Diesel only: Jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors. Service Codes will be flashed on the TCIL.
. . Message Center (Continental Applications Only). Refer to "Self-Test with Message Center."
· Place ignition key in the ON position.
· For 7.3L Diesel vehicles only, depress the throttle fully, and hold for the entire test.
· Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed.

DON'T:
· Depress throttle during Key On Engine Off Self-Test on gasoline engine applications.

Separator Pulse
A single 1/2 second separator pulse is issued 6-9 seconds after the last Key On Engine Off DTC. Then, 6-9 seconds after the single 1/2 second separator pulse, the Continuous Memory DTCs will be issued.
NOTE: The separator pulse and Continuous Memory DTCs follow Key On Engine Off DTCs ONLY.


Engine Running Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with the engine running. The sensors are checked under actual operating conditions and at normal operating temperatures. The actuators are exercised and checked for expected results.

Special Notes:
· On vehicles equipped with the Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID code.
· On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released.
· On vehicles equipped with E4OD transmission, the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) must be cycled after the ID code.
· The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse (or a 10 code on the STAR Tester) that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine running identification code. (See Code Output Format in this section.)
· When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief wide open throttle.

How To Run Engine Running Self-Test
DO:
· Deactivate Self-Test.
· Start and run engine at 2,000 rpm for two minutes. This action warms up the HO2S.
· Turn engine off, wait 10 seconds.
· Activate Self-Test.
· Start engine.
· After the ID code, depress and release the brake pedal if appropriate. See Special Note on previous page.
· After the ID code, within 1 to 2 seconds, turn the steering wheel at least one-half turn and then release it, if appropriate. See Special Notes above.
· If a Dynamic Response Code occurs, perform a brief wide-open throttle (WOT).
· Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed.

DON'T:
· Depress the throttle unless a Dynamic Response code is displayed.

Self-Test with Analog Voltmeter
DTCs will be represented by pulsing or sweeping movements of the voltmeter's needle across the dial face of the voltmeter (Figure 9). A single-digit number of three will be reported by three needle pulses (sweeps). However, a DTC is represented by a two-digit or three-digit number, such as 2-3. As a result, the DTC of 2-3 will appear on the voltmeter as two needle pulses (sweeps). After a two-second pause, the needle will pulse (sweep) three times.

The Continuous Memory DTCs are separated from the Key On Engine Off DTCs by a six-second delay, a single half-second sweep, and another six-second delay.


Self-Test with Malfunction Indicator Lamp(MIL)
During Self-Test, a DTC is reported by the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). It will flash the "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light on the dash panel (Figure 10). A single-digit number of 3 will be reported by three flashes.

However, a DTC is represented by two or three digits, such as 2-3 or 1-1-9. As a result, the Self-Test DTC of 2-3 will appear on the MIL as two flashes, then, after a two-second pause, the MIL will flash three times. Three-digit DTCs are flashed out similarly.

The Continuous Memory DTCs are separated from the Key On Engine Off DTCs by a six-second delay, a single half-second flash, and another six-second delay.


Self-Test with Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
The TCIL serves a dual purpose on the 7.3L Diesel vehicle with E40D transmissions.
· The light stays OFF when the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) is toggled once on the instrument panel--indicating the vehicle can attain the overdrive gear position.
· The light stays ON when the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) is toggled again on the instrument panel--indicating the vehicle is prevented from shifting into the overdrive gear position.
If the light flashes, perform Key On Engine Off Self-Test. The light under this condition serves as a Transmission Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Refer to "Self-Test with Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)" to perform Self-Test.


Code Output Format
The EEC system communicates service information through the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). These DTCs are two-digit or three-digit numbers representing the results of Self-Test. The DTCs are transmitted on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit found in the Data Link Connector (DLC). They are in the form of timed pulses, and are read by the technician on a voltmeter, STAR tester, Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) or on the Continental message center.

Fast DTCs/Slow DTCs
Fast DTCs are issued before slow service DTCs. These DTCs contain the identical information as the slow DTCs, but are transmitted at 100 times the normal rate. These DTCs are interpreted by special equipment at the end of the assembly line by the Body and Assembly Division, as well as the SUPER STAR II tester. After Fast DTCs have been output, Self-Test should not be exited (remove jumper, unlatch button, etc.) until all the Slow DTCs have been output. Exiting before slow DTCs have been output will erase any Continuous Memory DTCs. Some meters in service detect these codes as a short burst of information (slight meter deflection).

Engine Identification Codes (ID Codes)
Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the Engine Running Self-Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out. For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 2 pulses = 4 cylinders). For the 7.3L Diesel engine, the ID code = 5. These codes are used to verify the proper PCM is installed and that the Self-Test has been entered.


Dynamic Response Check
The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP and KS sensors during the brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT) performed during the Engine Running Self-Test. The signal for the operator to perform the brief WOT is a single pulse or 10 code on the STAR Tester.


Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch Test
On vehicles equipped with Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, the steering wheel must be turned one-half turn and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the PSP switch.


Brake On/Off Test
On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brake Lamp Switch.


Transmission Control Switch (TCS) Test
On vehicles equipped with TCS, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS.


Adaptive Fuel Self-Test
Adaptive fuel logic is used in fuel injection systems primarily to account for normal variability in fuel system components. When the fuel system is detected to be biased rich or lean during steady state vehicle operation, Adaptive Fuel will make a corresponding shift in the fuel delivery calculations so an unbiased condition will exist. The adaptive fuel "shift" is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM), which is powered by the vehicle battery. This prevents Adaptive Fuel from being lost when the vehicle is turned off.


MAF/TP/Injector Pulse Width In-Range Self-Test
The In-Range Self-Test was designed to detect in-range failures of the MAF/TP or fuel delivery systems. The PCM will use information from these three systems to generate three independent values. The three independent values will be continuously monitored. If one of the values differ significantly from the others during normal vehicle operation, a Continuous Memory DTC 121, 124, 125, 184, 185, 186 or 187 will be displayed.

Diagnostic Aids -Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (Wiggle Test)
Special Note: The technician can ATTEMPT to re-create and detect an intermittent fault using the Continuous Monitor DTM (Wiggle Test) procedures.

Key On Engine Off Wiggle Test Procedure
1. Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
3. For STAR Tester or VOM, activate, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test. You are now in the Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
4. Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory. This will be indicated as follows depending on the type of equipment being used:
* STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.
* Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
* VOM: Needle Sweep
* Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
* Scan Tool: Continuous Tone

Engine Running Wiggle Test Procedure
Special Note: The Engine Running Wiggle Test may be activated any time the engine is running.
1. Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool.
2. Key off.
3. Start the engine.
4. For STAR Tester or VOM, activate Self-Test, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test. DO NOT shut the engine off. You are now in the Engine Running Continuous Monitor DTM. For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
5. Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness or drive the vehicle. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory. This will be indicated as follows depending on the type of equipment being used:
* STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.
* Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
* VOM: Needle Sweep
* Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
* Scan Tool: Beeps


How to Clear the Continuous Memory
NOTE: Do not disconnect battery to clear Continuous Memory. This will erase the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) information which may cause a driveability concern.
1. Run the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
2. When the DTC's begin to be displayed, deactivate Self-Test:
-- STAR Tester: Unlatching the center button (up position).
-- All others: Remove the jumper wire from between Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return Pin of the DLC.
-- Scan Tool: Pushing the STOP button.
3. Continuous Memory will be erased in the PCM.
NOTE: KOEO & KOER DTCs cannot be cleared except by repairing the fault causing them.


How to Clear Keep Alive Memory (KAM)
The PCM stores information about vehicle operating conditions and uses this information to compensate for component tolerances. When an emission related component is replaced, Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared to erase the information stored by the PCM from the original component. To clear KAM: Disconnect the negative side of the battery for a minimum of five minutes. After KAM has been cleared, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle 10 miles or more to allow the processor to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance. (Distance is dependent on the vehicle application.)


Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM)
The Output State DTM aids in servicing output actuators associated with the EEC system. It enables the technician to energize and de-energize most of the system output actuators on command. This DTM is entered after all DTC's have been received from Key On Engine Off and Continuous Testing. At this time, leave Self-Test activated and depress the throttle. Each time the throttle is depressed the output actuators will change state from energized to de-energized or from de-energized to energized.
1. Enter Self-Test.
2. DTC Output Ends.
3. Do Brief WOT.
4. EEC Output To Actuators Energized.
5. Do Brief WOT.
6. EEC Output To Actuators De-Energized.
7. For vehicles with LFC and HFC circuits:
To cycle the LFC and HFC outputs after code output ends, depress and hold throttle. For LFC, wait until the MIL flashes once (10 seconds). For HFC, wait until MIL flashes twice (15 seconds). Release throttle. The LFC or HFC output is now on (to cycle output off, depress and release throttle).


Cylinder Balance DTM--SFI Engines Only
The purpose of the cylinder balance test is to assist the mechanic in finding a weak or non-contributing cylinder. The test is entered by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes after the Engine Running Self-Test DTC's have been output. Once the test is entered, the IAC duty cycle is fixed and the engine is allowed to stabilize. Engine rpm is measured and stored for later use. Next, the fuel is shut off to cylinder number 4, 6 or 8, depending on engine. After a brief stabilization period the engine rpm is again measured and stored. The injector is turned on again and the process is repeated for each of the injectors down to one. At this point, the maximum rpm drop that occurred is selected from the table of rpm drops for each cylinder. This maximum rpm drop is now multiplied by a calibratable percentage. The resulting number (rpm) is now used as the minimum rpm that each cylinder must have dropped to pass this test.
Example: 150 rpm x 65% = 98 rpm
If all cylinders drop at least this amount, then a code 90 is output indicating a pass. No further testing is necessary. If a cylinder did not drop at least this amount, then the cylinder number would be output. For example, 30 for cylinder number 3. This indicates that cylinder number 3 is either weak or non-contributing. The test can now be repeated a second time if the throttle is depressed and released within two minutes of the last code output. This time the maximum rpm drop that occurs is multiplied by a lower percentage. This number is now used as the minimum rpm drop for each cylinder to pass this test.
Example: 150 rpm x 43% = 65 rpm
If all the rpm drops are greater than 65 rpm, then a code 90 is output. If cylinder number 3 had failed the first level and passed the second, then cylinder number 3 is considered to be weak. If cylinder number 3 again failed, the code 30 would be output again. The test can be repeated a third time by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes of the last code output. This time the maximum rpm drop that results is multiplied by a still lower percentage. This number is now used as the minimum rpm drop for each cylinder to pass this test.
Example: 150 rpm x 20% = 30 rpm
If all the rpm drops are greater than 30 rpm then a code 90 is output. If cylinder number 3 had failed the first and second level, but passed the third, then it is considered to be a very weak cylinder. If cylinder number 3 failed the third level then a code 30 would again be output. In this case, cylinder number three would be considered a non-contributing cylinder. The Cylinder Balance DTM may still be repeated as many times as desired by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes of the last code output. All further testing (i.e. 4th, 5th pass) will be done using the third level percentage.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)--All Applications Except Continental
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is intended to alert the driver of certain malfunctions in the EEC-IV system. The MIL is a light in the dash that reads either "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." If the light is on, the driver of the vehicle should take the car in for service as soon as possible. NOTE: It is NOT necessary to immediately turn the engine off and have the vehicle towed when the MIL comes on.

The MIL will come on while the engine is operating in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) or Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) modes. The light will stay on for at least 10 seconds, then stay on as long as the fault causing it is present. If the MIL flashes quickly (less than 10 seconds) the MIL circuit should be checked for concerns. Refer to «Quick Test».

Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM)
FMEM is an alternate system strategy in the PCM designed to maintain vehicle operation should one or more sensor inputs fail. When a sensor input is perceived to be out-of-limits by the PCM, an alternative strategy will be initiated. The PCM will substitute a fixed in-limit sensor value and will continue to monitor the faulty sensor input. If the faulty sensor operates within limits, the PCM will return to the normal engine running strategy. Engine Running DTC 98 or 998 will be displayed when FMEM is in effect. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)/Message will remain on when FMEM is in effect. In FMEM mode, the PCM is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode the PCM uses an alternate engine control strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The DTC associated with this fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and the vehicle will return to the normal vehicle strategy. The DTC stored when the light was on is kept in Continuous Memory for the next 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) and then erased. This DTC is one of the Continuous Memory and it can be accessed by running the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.

HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the PCM is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration strictly to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: In HLOS mode Self-Test DTC's will not be output.


How the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Operates
System OK
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned on. The EEC-IV processor turns the bulb off as soon as it receives the PIP (cranking) signal.
System Not OK
If the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) should remain on after the vehicle has started, run Quick Test and has had service any DTC's. If Self-Test has pass DTC's, the (MIL) is always on, and the vehicle has no drive symptoms, go to «Section 2A». If the MIL never comes on, go to «Section 2A». If the vehicle is a no start, go to Pinpoint Test Step «AA1», «AB1», or «AC1».

NOTE:
When in Self-Test the MIL is not limited to Continuous Memory Codes and will also flash other DTC's. Also, Continuous Memory Codes are erased from Continuous Memory if the original fault has not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications).

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3-Digit Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) for '90-95 EEC-IV Trucks (p.1 of 2) GO TO THE NEXT PAGE...
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3-Digit Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) for '90-95 EEC-IV Trucks (p.2 of 2) SEE THE PREVious PAGE...
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Jumper Wire for EEC Self-Test (WPT-743 & WPT-352)




For more info, read the 7th post in this thread:
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71346

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 88-05-07 MIL Introduction

Publication Date: MARCH 2, 1988

FORD: 1988 ALL CAR LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1988 ALL CAR LINES
MERKUR: 1988 ALL CAR LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1988 ALL LIGHT TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is a new feature that has been added to 1988 vehicles. Vehicle applications follow. The MIL's (Check Engine) is active when the engine system requires service. An explanation of how and when the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) operates may need to be explained to some vehicle owners.

ACTION: Use the following service information to explain the operation of the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) to resolve customer concerns.

NOTE: IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO IMMEDIATELY TURN OFF THE ENGINE OR HAVE THE VEHICLE TOWED WHEN THE "CHECK ENGINE" (MIL) LIGHT COMES ON.

Vehicles Equipped with EEC IV
The CHECK ENGINE light will come on while engine is operating in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) or Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) modes. The light will stay on as long as the fault causing it is present.

In FMEM mode, the computer is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode, the computer uses an alternate strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The following chart lists the system faults which will turn on the CHECK ENGINE light in this mode. The error code associated with this system fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and vehicle will return to normal vehicle strategy. The error code stored when the light was on was not erased. This code is one of the continuous error codes and can be accessed by running the KOEO self-test.

HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced.
NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES.
The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal.

To service a MIL concern, use the 1988 Engine/Emission Diagnosis Shop Manual, Volume H, Section 16. If the vehicle has no drive problems, the MIL is on, and no codes are found in memory, follow diagnostics by symptom in the 1988 Engine/Emission Diagnosis Shop Manual, Volume H, Sections 17 or 18.

Non-EEC IV Vehicles
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) alerts the customer that 60,000 mile emission system maintained is required. To service a MIL concern on a non-EEC IV vehicle, refer to the 1988 Engine/Emission Diagnostic Shop Manual, Volume H, Section 13.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
__________________________________________________________

Pulling EEC-IV codes ('84-95 EFI)

(This is from the Ford Service CD, but I've edited & reorganized it so it's easier to follow. I deleted the info about the STAR testers since I doubt anyone has one and doesn't know how to use it.)

Self-Test Description
The Self-Test is divided into three specialized tests: Key On Engine Off Self-Test, Engine Running Self-Test, and Continuous Self-Test. The Self-Test is not a conclusive test by itself, but is used as a part of the functional Quick-Test diagnostic procedure. The PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

Continuous Self-Test
· Continuous Memory DTCs are issued as a result of information stored during Continuous Self-Test, while the vehicle was in normal operation. These DTCs are displayed only during Key On Engine Off Self-Test and after the separator pulse. Intermittent faults that have not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) are erased from Continuous Memory and will not produce a Continuous Memory DTC.
· During this mode of testing the PCM continuously monitors inputs for opens and shorts. The Continuous Memory DTCs must be retrieved within 40 (for some applications) or 80 engine temperature warm up cycles. On the 41st or 81st Engine Temperature cycle, the DTC will be automatically erased. The Continuous Memory DTCs can also be erased by deactivating Self-Test while the DTCs are being outputted.

The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests are functional tests which only detect faults present at the time of the Self-Test. Continuous Self-Test is performed during normal vehicle operation and stores any fault information in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) for retrieval at a later time.

Special Notes:
· The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests detect faults that are present at the time of testing. Faults that occur only when the vehicle is operating or intermittent faults that have occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles are detected during Continuous Self-Test, stored in Continuous Memory and displayed during Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
· When directed to a Pinpoint Test, always read the cover page(s) for special notes and look carefully at the Pinpoint Test Schematic.
· After service, rerun Quick Test to ensure that service was effective.
· It may be necessary to disconnect or disassemble harness connector assemblies to do some of the inspections. Pin locations should be noted before disassembly.

Visual Check
1. Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2. Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3. Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4. Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage.
5. Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6. Check the transmission fluid level and quality.
7. Make all necessary repairs before continuing with QUICK TEST.

Vehicle Preparation
1. Perform ALL safety steps required to start and run vehicle tests - apply parking brake, put shift lever firmly in PARK position (NEUTRAL on manual transmission), block drive wheels, etc.
2. Turn off ALL electrical loads--radios, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc.

Using an Analog Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM)
1. Turn the ignition key off.
2. Set the VOM on a DC voltage range to read from 0 to 15 volts.
3. Connect the VOM from the battery positive post to the Self-Test Output pin of the large Data Link Connector (DLC) (Figure 3).
4. Connect the timing light.

Using the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC). This is where you can use a paperclip.
Image . Image . Image . Image

Using the Message Center on Continental Applications Only
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).

Using the Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) on 7.3L Diesel Engines Only
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).

Key On Engine Off Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with power applied and engine at rest. To detect errors during Key On Engine Off Self-Test, the fault must be present at the time of testing.

Special Notes:
· Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) recorded in this step will be used for diagnosis after a PASS code 11 or 111 is received in both the Key On Engine Off and the Engine Running Self-Tests.
· Deviation from this procedure may cause the output of false DTCs.
· On all vehicles equipped with a 4.9L ENGINE, the clutch must be depressed during the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
· On all vehicles equipped with a 7.3L DIESEL ENGINE, the throttle must be depressed (WOT) during the entire Key On Engine Off Self-Test.


How To Run The Key On Engine Off Self-Test
DO:
· Verify that the vehicle has been properly prepared.
· Start engine and run until it reaches operating temperature.
· Turn engine off and wait 10 seconds.
· Activate Self-Test.
. . Analog VOM: Jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors.
. . Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors. DTCs will be flashed on the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
. . Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) 7.3L Diesel only: Jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors. Service Codes will be flashed on the TCIL.
. . Message Center (Continental Applications Only). Refer to "Self-Test with Message Center."
· Place ignition key in the ON position.
· For 7.3L Diesel vehicles only, depress the throttle fully, and hold for the entire test.
· Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed.

DON'T:
· Depress throttle during Key On Engine Off Self-Test on gasoline engine applications.


Separator Pulse
A single 1/2 second separator pulse is issued 6-9 seconds after the last Key On Engine Off DTC. Then, 6-9 seconds after the single 1/2 second separator pulse, the Continuous Memory DTCs will be issued.
NOTE: The separator pulse and Continuous Memory DTCs follow Key On Engine Off DTCs ONLY.

Engine Running Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with the engine running. The sensors are checked under actual operating conditions and at normal operating temperatures. The actuators are exercised and checked for expected results.

Special Notes:
· On vehicles equipped with the Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID code.
· On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released.
· On vehicles equipped with E4OD transmission, the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) must be cycled after the ID code.
· The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse (or a 10 code on the STAR Tester) that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine running identification code. (See Code Output Format in this section.)
· When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief wide open throttle.

How To Run Engine Running Self-Test
DO:
· Deactivate Self-Test.
· Start and run engine at 2,000 rpm for two minutes. This action warms up the HO2S.
· Turn engine off, wait 10 seconds.
· Activate Self-Test.
· Start engine.
· After the ID code, depress and release the brake pedal if appropriate. See Special Note on previous page.
· After the ID code, within 1 to 2 seconds, turn the steering wheel at least one-half turn and then release it, if appropriate. See Special Notes above.
· If a Dynamic Response Code occurs, perform a brief wide-open throttle (WOT).
· Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed.

DON'T:
· Depress the throttle unless a Dynamic Response code is displayed.


Self-Test with Analog Voltmeter
DTCs will be represented by pulsing or sweeping movements of the voltmeter's needle across the dial face of the voltmeter (Figure 9). A single-digit number of three will be reported by three needle pulses (sweeps). However, a DTC is represented by a two-digit or three-digit number, such as 2-3. As a result, the DTC of 2-3 will appear on the voltmeter as two needle pulses (sweeps). After a two-second pause, the needle will pulse (sweep) three times. The Continuous Memory DTCs are separated from the Key On Engine Off DTCs by a six-second delay, a single half-second sweep, and another six-second delay.

Self-Test with Malfunction Indicator Lamp(MIL)
During Self-Test, a DTC is reported by the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). It will flash the "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light on the dash panel (Figure 10). A single-digit number of 3 will be reported by three flashes. However, a DTC is represented by two or three digits, such as 2-3 or 1-1-9. As a result, the Self-Test DTC of 2-3 will appear on the MIL as two flashes, then, after a two-second pause, the MIL will flash three times. Three-digit DTCs are flashed out similarly. The Continuous Memory DTCs are separated from the Key On Engine Off DTCs by a six-second delay, a single half-second flash, and another six-second delay.

Self-Test with Message Center (Continental Only)
1. On the Electronic Instrument Cluster (Figure 11), hold in all three buttons (Gauge Select, English Metric and Speed Alarm) at the same time.
a. Key On Engine Off Self-Test: While holding in all three buttons, place ignition switch in the ON position. Release buttons.
b. Key On Engine Running Self-Test: While holding in all three buttons, start engine. Release buttons.
2. Press the Gauge Select button three times, until cluster mode "dEALEr 4" is displayed.
3. To initiate Self-Test, jumper STI to SIG RTN at the DLC and STI connectors.
4. DTC output will be displayed on the message center.
5. To exit Self-Test, turn ignition switch to OFF and remove jumper.


Self-Test with Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
The TCIL serves a dual purpose on the 7.3L Diesel vehicle with E40D transmissions.
· The light stays OFF when the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) is toggled once on the instrument panel--indicating the vehicle can attain the overdrive gear position.
· The light stays ON when the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) is toggled again on the instrument panel--indicating the vehicle is prevented from shifting into the overdrive gear position.
If the light flashes, perform Key On Engine Off Self-Test. The light under this condition serves as a Transmission Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Refer to "Self-Test with Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)" to perform Self-Test.


Code Output Format
The EEC system communicates service information through the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). These DTCs are two-digit or three-digit numbers representing the results of Self-Test. The DTCs are transmitted on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit found in the Data Link Connector (DLC). They are in the form of timed pulses, and are read by the technician on a voltmeter, STAR tester, Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) or on the Continental message center.

Fast DTCs/Slow DTCs
Fast DTCs are issued before slow service DTCs. These DTCs contain the identical information as the slow DTCs, but are transmitted at 100 times the normal rate. These DTCs are interpreted by special equipment at the end of the assembly line by the Body and Assembly Division, as well as the SUPER STAR II tester. After Fast DTCs have been output, Self-Test should not be exited (remove jumper, unlatch button, etc.) until all the Slow DTCs have been output. Exiting before slow DTCs have been output will erase any Continuous Memory DTCs. Some meters in service detect these codes as a short burst of information (slight meter deflection).

Engine Identification Codes (ID Codes)
Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the Engine Running Self-Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out. For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 2 pulses = 4 cylinders). For the 7.3L Diesel engine, the ID code = 5. These codes are used to verify the proper PCM is installed and that the Self-Test has been entered.


Dynamic Response Check
The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP and KS sensors during the brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT) performed during the Engine Running Self-Test. The signal for the operator to perform the brief WOT is a single pulse or 10 code on the STAR Tester.


Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch Test
On vehicles equipped with Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, the steering wheel must be turned one-half turn and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the PSP switch.


Brake On/Off Test
On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brake Lamp Switch.


Transmission Control Switch (TCS) Test
On vehicles equipped with TCS, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS.


Adaptive Fuel Self-Test
Adaptive fuel logic is used in fuel injection systems primarily to account for normal variability in fuel system components. When the fuel system is detected to be biased rich or lean during steady state vehicle operation, Adaptive Fuel will make a corresponding shift in the fuel delivery calculations so an unbiased condition will exist. The adaptive fuel "shift" is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM), which is powered by the vehicle battery. This prevents Adaptive Fuel from being lost when the vehicle is turned off.


MAF/TP/Injector Pulse Width In-Range Self-Test
The In-Range Self-Test was designed to detect in-range failures of the MAF/TP or fuel delivery systems. The PCM will use information from these three systems to generate three independent values. The three independent values will be continuously monitored. If one of the values differ significantly from the others during normal vehicle operation, a Continuous Memory DTC 121, 124, 125, 184, 185, 186 or 187 will be displayed.
__________________________________________________________

Diagnostic Aids -Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (Wiggle Test)
Special Note: The technician can ATTEMPT to re-create and detect an intermittent fault using the Continuous Monitor DTM (Wiggle Test) procedures.

Key On Engine Off Wiggle Test Procedure

1. Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
3. For STAR Tester or VOM, activate, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test. You are now in the Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
4. Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory. This will be indicated as follows depending on the type of equipment being used:
* STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.
* Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
* VOM: Needle Sweep
* Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
* Scan Tool: Continuous Tone


Engine Running Wiggle Test Procedure
Special Note: The Engine Running Wiggle Test may be activated any time the engine is running.

1. Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool.
2. Key off.
3. Start the engine.
4. For STAR Tester or VOM, activate Self-Test, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test. DO NOT shut the engine off. You are now in the Engine Running Continuous Monitor DTM. For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
5. Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness or drive the vehicle. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory. This will be indicated as follows depending on the type of equipment being used:
* STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.
* Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
* VOM: Needle Sweep
* Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
* Scan Tool: Beeps


How to Clear the Continuous Memory
NOTE: Do not disconnect battery to clear Continuous Memory. This will erase the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) information which may cause a driveability concern.

1. Run the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.
2. When the DTC's begin to be displayed, deactivate Self-Test:
-- STAR Tester: Unlatching the center button (up position).
-- All others: Remove the jumper wire from between Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return Pin of the DLC.
-- Scan Tool: Pushing the STOP button.
3. Continuous Memory will be erased in the PCM.

NOTE: KOEO & KOER DTCs cannot be cleared except by repairing the fault causing them.


How to Clear Keep Alive Memory (KAM)
The PCM stores information about vehicle operating conditions and uses this information to compensate for component tolerances. When an emission related component is replaced, Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared to erase the information stored by the PCM from the original component. To clear KAM: Disconnect the negative side of the battery for a minimum of five minutes. After KAM has been cleared, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle 10 miles or more to allow the processor to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance. (Distance is dependent on the vehicle application.)


Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM)
The Output State DTM aids in servicing output actuators associated with the EEC system. It enables the technician to energize and de-energize most of the system output actuators on command. This DTM is entered after all DTC's have been received from Key On Engine Off and Continuous Testing. At this time, leave Self-Test activated and depress the throttle. Each time the throttle is depressed the output actuators will change state from energized to de-energized or from de-energized to energized.

1. Enter Self-Test.
2. DTC Output Ends.
3. Do Brief WOT.
4. EEC Output To Actuators Energized.
5. Do Brief WOT.
6. EEC Output To Actuators De-Energized.
7. For vehicles with LFC and HFC circuits:
To cycle the LFC and HFC outputs after code output ends, depress and hold throttle. For LFC, wait until the MIL flashes once (10 seconds). For HFC, wait until MIL flashes twice (15 seconds). Release throttle. The LFC or HFC output is now on (to cycle output off, depress and release throttle).


Cylinder Balance DTM--SFI Engines Only (no F-series or Bronco)

The purpose of the cylinder balance test is to assist the mechanic in finding a weak or non-contributing cylinder. The test is entered by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes after the Engine Running Self-Test DTC's have been output.

Once the test is entered, the IAC duty cycle is fixed and the engine is allowed to stabilize. Engine rpm is measured and stored for later use. Next, the fuel is shut off to cylinder number 4, 6 or 8, depending on engine. After a brief stabilization period the engine rpm is again measured and stored. The injector is turned on again and the process is repeated for each of the injectors down to one. At this point, the maximum rpm drop that occurred is selected from the table of rpm drops for each cylinder. This maximum rpm drop is now multiplied by a calibratable percentage. The resulting number (rpm) is now used as the minimum rpm that each cylinder must have dropped to pass this test.

Example: 150 rpm x 65% = 98 rpm

If all cylinders drop at least this amount, then a code 90 is output indicating a pass. No further testing is necessary. If a cylinder did not drop at least this amount, then the cylinder number would be output. For example, 30 for cylinder number 3. This indicates that cylinder number 3 is either weak or non-contributing.

The test can now be repeated a second time if the throttle is depressed and released within two minutes of the last code output. This time the maximum rpm drop that occurs is multiplied by a lower percentage. This number is now used as the minimum rpm drop for each cylinder to pass this test.

Example: 150 rpm x 43% = 65 rpm

If all the rpm drops are greater than 65 rpm, then a code 90 is output. If cylinder number 3 had failed the first level and passed the second, then cylinder number 3 is considered to be weak. If cylinder number 3 again failed, the code 30 would be output again.

The test can be repeated a third time by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes of the last code output. This time the maximum rpm drop that results is multiplied by a still lower percentage. This number is now used as the minimum rpm drop for each cylinder to pass this test.

Example: 150 rpm x 20% = 30 rpm

If all the rpm drops are greater than 30 rpm then a code 90 is output. If cylinder number 3 had failed the first and second level, but passed the third, then it is considered to be a very weak cylinder. If cylinder number 3 failed the third level then a code 30 would again be output. In this case, cylinder number three would be considered a non-contributing cylinder.

The Cylinder Balance DTM may still be repeated as many times as desired by depressing and releasing the throttle within two minutes of the last code output. All further testing (i.e. 4th, 5th pass) will be done using the third level percentage.

Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM)
FMEM is an alternate system strategy in the PCM designed to maintain vehicle operation should one or more sensor inputs fail. When a sensor input is perceived to be out-of-limits by the PCM, an alternative strategy will be initiated. The PCM will substitute a fixed in-limit sensor value and will continue to monitor the faulty sensor input. If the faulty sensor operates within limits, the PCM will return to the normal engine running strategy. Engine Running DTC 98 or 998 will be displayed when FMEM is in effect. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)/Message will remain on when FMEM is in effect.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)--All Applications Except Continental

The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is intended to alert the driver of certain malfunctions in the EEC-IV system. The MIL is a light in the dash that reads either "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." If the light is on, the driver of the vehicle should take the car in for service as soon as possible.

NOTE: It is not necessary to immediately turn the engine off and have the vehicle towed when the MIL comes on.

The MIL will come on while the engine is operating in Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) or Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) modes. The light will stay on for at least 10 seconds, then stay on as long as the fault causing it is present. If the MIL flashes quickly (less than 10 seconds) the MIL circuit should be checked for concerns. Refer to «Quick Test».

In FMEM mode, the PCM is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode the PCM uses an alternate engine control strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The DTC associated with this fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and the vehicle will return to the normal vehicle strategy. The DTC stored when the light was on is kept in Continuous Memory for the next 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) and then erased. This DTC is one of the Continuous Memory and it can be accessed by running the Key On Engine Off Self-Test.

HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the PCM is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration strictly to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced.

NOTE: In HLOS mode Self-Test DTC's will not be output.


How the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Operates

System OK: The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned on. The EEC-IV processor turns the bulb off as soon as it receives the PIP (cranking) signal.

System Not OK: If the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) should remain on after the vehicle has started, run Quick Test and has had service any DTC's. If Self-Test has pass DTC's, the (MIL) is always on, and the vehicle has no drive symptoms, go to «Section 2A».

If the MIL never comes on, go to «Section 2A».

If the vehicle is a no start, go to Pinpoint Test Step «AA1», «AB1», or «AC1».

NOTE: When in Self-Test the MIL is not limited to Continuous Memory Codes and will also flash other DTC's. Also, Continuous Memory Codes are erased from Continuous Memory if the original fault has not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications).

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Self-Test Switch for '87-95 EEC-IV vehicles.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Not all lighted switches are suitable for this mod. Note that the switch shown is technically a DPST with a shared common terminal, and one pole (terminal #1) wired to an incandescent bulb. Since these switches are prewired for terminal #1 to be ground and #3 hot (opposite of this circuit), an LED switch won't work. Also, some of these switches don't open the circuit to the light, so it would be on with the key. If this exact style of switch can't be found, either the hot wire can be omitted, or an UNlit switch can be used, or a DPXT switch can be wired to an external light.

When the switch is ON, it closes the circuit from STI (W/P) to ground, causing the EEC to enter its self-test mode (KOEO or KOER) and flash codes on the stock CEL/MIL in the dash. The switch's lamp won't flash codes - it merely indicates that the switch is ON. For the switch's lamp to flash with the CEL, a true DPXT switch would be required, and an LED switch could be used.

For more info on reading codes, see:


For jumper wire use, see:
.

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OBD-II test connector (Motorcraft WPT615) located under glove box for '96 Bronco with EEC-V processor. For code info, see:
https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/



'84-95 w/EEC-IV use this DLC:


OBD II Drive Cycle
The engine must be warmed up and at operating temperature before proceeding with the drive modes of the following OBD II Drive Cycle.

1. Start the engine. Drive or idle (in neutral) the vehicle for 4 minutes.
2. Idle the vehicle in drive (neutral for manual transmission) for 40 seconds.
3. Accelerate the vehicle to 45 mph (72 km/h) at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for 10 seconds.
4. Drive the vehicle with a steady throttle at 45 mph (72 km/h) for 30 seconds.
5. Idle the vehicle in drive (neutral for manual transmissions) for 40 seconds.
6. Continue to drive the vehicle in city traffic at speeds between 25 and 40 mph
(40-64 km/h) for 15 minutes. During the 15 minute drive cycle the following modes must be achieved:
-a. at least 5 stop and idle modes at 10 seconds each
-b. acceleration from idles at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle position, and
-c. choose 3 different speeds to do 1.5 minute steady state throttle drives.
7. Accelerate the vehicle up to between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h). This should take approximately 5 minutes.
8. Drive vehicle and hold the throttle steady at the selected speed between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h) for approximately 5 minutes.
9. Drive the vehicle for 5 minutes at varying speeds between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h).
10. Bring the vehicle back to idle. Idle in drive for 40 seconds.
11. OBD II drive cycle has been completed. Vehicle can be turned off when convenient.

__________________________________________
Although written for older EECs, the following TSB may be helpful for some early EEC-V (OBD-II) applications:
__________________________________________

TSB 92-24-03 Explanation of 3-Digit Codes & MIL

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 18, 1992

FORD: 1991-93 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, PROBE, TAURUS, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1991-92 MARK VII
1991-93 CONTINENTAL, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOPAZ, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1993 MARK VIII
LIGHT TRUCK: 1991-93 AEROSTAR, BRONCO, ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES, RANGER

ISSUE: Occasionally, there are reports of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Check Engine" Lamp (CEL) or "Service Engine Soon" (SES) lamp being lit with no Self-Test codes in Continuous Memory. An explanation of three digit EEC IV Self-Test Codes has been developed along with reasons for the MIL lamp being lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.

ACTION: Refer to the following explanation of three digit EEC IV Self Test Codes to determine why the MIL lamp is sometimes lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.


OVERVIEW OF THREE DIGIT EEC IV SELF-TEST CODES

Ford went from two digit to three digit EEC IV Self-Test codes in 1991 to service the increasing number of service codes required to support various government On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) regulations. The phase-in from two digit to three digit codes started in the 1991 model year and is largely complete except for some medium/heavy trucks that will retain two digit codes through the 1994 model year.

MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

Following is a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.

1) Technician Not Familiar With Self-Test Code Output
There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and Key On Engine Running (KOER). While both of these will test for various "hard faults" that are present when the test is run, the processor continuously monitors various operating parameters whenever the engine is running. If the processor detects a problem, it will store a "Continuous Memory" code and light the MIL. These Continuous Memory codes are put out during KOEO Self-Test after any codes associated with hard faults are output.

Self-Test Codes are displayed by flashing the MIL. They are also output as voltage pulses on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit in the Self-Test connector. In either Self-Test mode, all codes are output twice and in KOEO, the hard fault codes are separated from the Continuous Memory codes by a "separator" pulse.

A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (lll) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (lll) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes.

2) Inadvertent Erasure Of Continuous Memory Self-Test Codes
Continuous Memory Self-Test codes are erased by ungrounding STI before KOEO Self-Test is complete and all KOEO and Continuous Memory codes have been displayed. It is possible to inadvertently erase Continuous Memory codes by ungrounding STI without realizing that KOEO Self-Test is not complete or the processor has not finished displaying all the codes.

The EEC Self-Test codes are not only used by service technicians, they are used as a final system test in the assembly plants. To make this test as efficient as possible, Self-Test codes are output as a very fast, short pulsewidth signal before the codes are displayed by the flashing MIL. These "FAST" codes can only be interpreted by end-of-line equipment or code-reading testers like Ford's Self-Test Automatic Readout (STAR) testers.

The EEC IV processor puts out both 2-digit and 3-digit Self-Test codes in both formats, "FAST" pulsewidth mode and "SLOW" pulsewidth mode. While all "STAR" type testers display 2-digit codes, the original STAR tester cannot display 3-digit service codes. If the STAR tester is used on 3-digit service code applications, the display will be blank but the tester will beep. The beeps can be counted to determine service codes. The SUPER STAR II tester will only display 3-digit service codes in "FAST" code mode. If slow code mode is used on 3-digit service code applications, the display will be blank but the tester will beep. The beeps can be counted to determine service codes. For more information on running Self-Test, refer to the "EEC IV Quick Test Procedures and Appendix" section of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Service Manual.

Since certain STAR testers are capable of reading and displaying fast codes before the slow codes are finished being output on the MIL, a technician can assume that since he sees codes displayed, he can unground STI and move on. If he ungrounds STI before all slow codes are output, Continuous Memory will be erased and could put out a pass code (ll/lll) the next time KOEO Self-Test is run. The technician may also realize that his tester is in "SLOW" mode after he has initiated the KOEO test and stop the test to change tester settings. Another possibility is that another person, a vehicle owner or another technician, could have erased the codes before the technician reporting the situation has run Self-Test. In any of these situations, the vehicle must be driven until the Continuous Memory codes are reset.

3) The Concern That Set The Continuous Memory Code Is No Longer Present
The EEC processor will erase a Continuous Memory code if the concern that caused it has not been present for 40 or 80 warm-up cycles, depending on the vehicle. A warm-up cycle occurs when the vehicle is started with the coolant temperature below 120%uFFFD F (49%uFFFD C) and then shutdown with the coolant temperature above 150%uFFFD F (66%uFFFD C). If a vehicle is brought in for service with a MIL complaint and the vehicle is driven or otherwise allowed to warm-up before Self-Test is run, the code may be cleared before the technician tests it.

4) Grounded STO/MIL Circuit
The processor controls the MIL by grounding the STO/MIL circuit (Pin 17). If this circuit shorts to ground, whether the processor is controlling it or not, the MIL will be lit. Starting in 1991, if the processor has lit the MIL, it will hold it on for a minimum of 10 seconds. If the MIL flashes quickly, the concern is probably the STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground.

5) Engine Running In HLOS
The EEC processor will enter Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) if it detects a problem that could cause further damage to the system. Under HLOS, the processor modifies its operating strategy so that certain functions are disabled but the vehicle can be safely driven in for service. If the vehicle is in HLOS, Continuous Memory codes will not be set and Self-Test cannot be initiated. However, Continuous codes that were set before the processor entered HLOS will be retained.

6) Misinterpretation Of MIL Bulb Check
The MIL will light as a bulb check if the key is on and the engine is not running. If the engine is running and stalls or stops for any reason with the key on, the MIL will be lit and no Continuous Memory codes will be set. When the key is first turned on, the MIL will stay lit briefly after the engine is started as part of the bulb check feature.

7) MIL Flashes During Self-Test
The circuit that controls the MIL is also the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit that goes to the Self-Test connector. The MIL will flash during Self-Test as the STO circuit is cycled on and off. This is normal and no Continuous codes are set.

8 ) Processor KAM Is Erased Or Fails
The Keep Alive Memory (KAM) within the processor must always have voltage supplied to it. This voltage is supplied by the Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) circuit (Pin 1) that connects directly to the battery. KAM contains adaptive parameter tables that allow the processor to adapt to different operating requirements. It also contains the Continuous Memory codes. Continuous Memory codes will be erased any time KAPWR is disconnected (i.e. battery disconnected, processor disconnected, breakout box installed, open in the wire, etc.). If KAM fails within the processor, all Continuous codes will also be erased.

9) Damaged STAR Tester
A damaged STAR tester can produce erroneous code output or accidentally erase Continuous Memory.

10) KOEO Processor RAM Test Failed
The processor's Random Access Memory (RAM) is tested during KOEO Self-Test. If the processor's RAM has failed, the MIL will light and no codes are output.

11) Intermittent VSS Fault Detected In Wiggle Mode
If in wiggle mode (STI grounded) and an intermittent Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) fault is detected, the MIL can be lit momentarily. If the VSS signal returns to normal, the associated code is erased. In normal operation, the VSS will not light the MIL.

12) IDM Pulsewidth Not Recognized By Processor (EDIS Vehicles)
EDIS vehicles can have the MIL on with no Continuous codes if the processor does not recognize the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) pulsewidth. In this case, coil pack failure codes may not be set since the fault filters can be erased before they reach the threshold that sets the code.

13) Intermittent Ignition System Fault
Vehicles with a Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor can light the MIL with no Continuous codes present if an intermittent ignition system fault is present long enough to activate the MIL and then goes away. The CID sensor can indicate that the fault was momentary and clear the coil pack faults but the CID fault may not register if the fault goes away fast enough.

14) Intermittent Open STI Circuit
If the Self-Test Input (STI) circuit opened during KOEO Self-Test or code output, Continuous Memory would be cleared.

15) Power Lost To EEC Processor
On some applications, the processor can lose power while the MIL stays powered. The MIL can light if a ground path is present through the processor.

16) Other Warning Lamps Mistaken For MIL
The MIL can sometimes be confused with other warning lamps like the amber Air Bag lamp if they are located near each other in the dash panel.

17) Development Testing Or Wrong Processor Released To Production
The MIL can be lit without Continuous codes during testing or if the wrong processor is installed.

SUPERSEDES: 92-4-4
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

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The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor (Figure 13) directly measures the mass of the air flowing into the engine. The sensor output is a DC (Analog) signal ranging from about 0.5 volts to 5.0 volts used by the processor to calculate the injector pulse width for stoichiometry. The sensing element is a thin platinum wire wound on a ceramic bobbin and coated with glass. This "hot wire" is maintained at 200°C (392°F) above ambient temperature as measured by a constant "cold wire".

Pin 2 - Circuit 361 (R) - PCM Pwr. Relay - 12V in RUN
Pin 3 - Circuit 570 (Bk/Y) - Ground - 0V at all times
Pin 4 - Circuit 968 (T/LB) - MAF Return - signal ground through PCM
Pin 5 - Circuit 967 (LB/R) - MAF to PCM - signal power from PCM


_________________________________________________________________
TSB 98-23-10 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Contamination Service Tip

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 10, 1998

FORD: 1990-1997 THUNDERBIRD
1990-1999 MUSTANG, TAURUS SHO
1991-1999 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, TAURUS
1992-1994 TEMPO
1993-1997 PROBE
1995-1999 CONTOUR
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1990-1997 COUGAR
1991-1999 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1992-1994 TOPAZ
1993-1998 MARK VIII
1995-1999 MYSTIQUE
LIGHT TRUCK: 1990 BRONCO II
1990-1997 AEROSTAR
1990-1999 RANGER
1991-1999 EXPLORER
1994-1996 BRONCO
1994-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD
1994-1999 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD, F-350
1995-1999 WINDSTAR
1997-1999 EXPEDITION, MOUNTAINEER
1998-1999 NAVIGATOR
1999 F-250 HD, SUPER DUTY F SERIES

ISSUE: This TSB article is a diagnostic procedure to address vehicles that exhibit lean driveability symptoms and may or may not have any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in memory.

ACTION: Follow the diagnostic procedures described in the following Service Tip. The revised diagnostic procedure is a more accurate means of diagnosing the symptoms.

SERVICE TIP

MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) DISCUSSION
MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher air flows.

If vehicle is driven at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) or high loads, the fuel system normally goes open loop rich to provide maximum power. If the MAF sensor is contaminated, the fuel system will actually be lean because of under-estimated air flow. During open loop fuel operation, the vehicle applies Long Term Fuel Trim corrections that have been learned during closed loop operation. These corrections are often lean corrections learned at lower air flows. This combination of under-estimated air flow and lean fuel trim corrections can result in spark knock/detonation and lack of power concerns at WOT and high loads.

One of the indicators for diagnosing this condition is barometric pressure. Barometric pressure (BARO) is inferred by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) software at part throttle and WOT (there is no actual BARO sensor on MAF-equipped vehicles, except for the 3.8L Supercharged engine). At high air flows, a contaminated MAF sensor will under-estimate air flow coming into the engine, hence the PCM infers that the vehicle is operating at a higher altitude. The BARO reading is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) after it is updated. Other indicators are Long Term Fuel Trim and MAF voltage at idle.

NOTE: THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE MAY ALSO BE USED TO DIAGNOSE VEHICLES THAT DO NOT HAVE FUEL SYSTEM/HO2S SENSOR DTCs.

Symptoms:
Lack of Power
Spark Knock/Detonation
Buck/Jerk
Hesitation/Surge on Acceleration
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated - DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175 may be stored in memory
OBDII DTCs

P0171, P0174 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)
P0172, P0175 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)
P1130, P1131, P1132, (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)
P1150, P1151, P1152, (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)
OBDI DTCs

181, 189 (Fuel system lean, Bank 1 or 2)
179, 188 (Fuel system rich, Bank 1 or 2)
171, 172, 173 (HO2S11 lack of switching, Bank 1)
175, 176, 177 (HO2S21 lack of switching, Bank 2)
184, 185 (MAF higher/lower than expected)
186, 187 (Injector pulse width higher/lower than expected)
NOTE: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. IT WILL ERASE KEEP ALIVE MEMORY AND RESET LONG TERM FUEL TRIM AND BARO TO THEIR STARTING/BASE VALUES. THE BARO PARAMETER IDENTIFICATION DISPLAY (PID) IS USED FOR THIS DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE. ALL OBDII APPLICATIONS HAVE THIS PID AVAILABLE. THERE ARE SOME OBDI VEHICLES THAT DO NOT HAVE THE BARO PID, FOR THESE VEHICLES OMIT THE BARO CHECK AND REFER ONLY TO STEPS 2, 3, AND 4 IN THE DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE.

1. Look at the BARO PID. Refer to the Barometric Pressure Reference Chart in this article. At sea level, BARO should read about 159 Hz (29.91 in. Hg). As a reference, Denver, Colorado at 1524 meters (5000 ft.) altitude should be about 144 Hz (24.88 in. Hg.). Normal learned BARO variability is up to �6 Hz (�2 in. Hg.). If BARO indicates a higher altitude than you are at (7 or more Hz lower than expected), you may have MAF contamination. If available, Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) has a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor that can be used as a barometric pressure reference. Use "MAP/BARO" test under "Powertrain," "Testers and Meters." Ignore the hookup screen. Connect GP2 to the reference MAP on the following screen.
NOTE: REMEMBER THAT MOST WEATHER SERVICES REPORT A LOCAL BAROMETRIC PRESSURE THAT HAS BEEN CORRECTED TO SEA LEVEL. THE BARO PID, ON THE OTHER HAND, REPORTS THE ACTUAL BAROMETRIC PRESSURE FOR THE ALTITUDE THE VEHICLE IS BEING OPERATED IN. LOCAL WEATHER CONDITIONS (HIGH AND LOW PRESSURE AREAS) WILL CHANGE THE LOCAL BAROMETRIC PRESSURE BY SEVERAL INCHES OF MERCURY (�3 Hz, �1 in. Hg.).

NOTE: BARO IS UPDATED ONLY WHEN THE VEHICLE IS AT HIGH THROTTLE OPENINGS. THEREFORE, A VEHICLE WHICH IS DRIVEN DOWN FROM A HIGHER ALTITUDE MAY NOT HAVE HAD AN OPPORTUNITY TO UPDATE THE BARO VALUE IN KAM. IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT THAT BARO HAS BEEN UPDATED, PERFORM THREE OR FOUR HEAVY, SUSTAINED ACCELERATIONS AT GREATER THAN HALF-THROTTLE TO ALLOW BARO TO UPDATE.

BAROMETRIC PRESSURE REFERENCE
Barometric Pressure (in. Hg.) Barometric Pressure (kPa) BARO/MAP PID (Hz) Altitude above sea level (ft)
3.5 11.8 89.3
5 16.9 92.8
10 33.8 104.6
15 50.7 117.0 14,000
20 67.5 129.6 10,000
21 70.9 132.5 9,000
22 74.3 135.4 8,000
23 77.7 138.3 7,000
24 81.1 141.1 6,000
25 84.4 144.0 5,000
26 87.8 146.9 4,000
27 91.2 149.8 3,000
28 94.6 152.8 2,000
29 97.9 155.8 1,000
30 101.3 158.9 0 (sea level)
31 104.7 162.0
31.875 107.7 164.7

2. On a fully warmed up engine, look at Long Term Fuel Trim at idle, in Neutral, A/C off, (LONGFT1 and/or LONGFT2 PIDs). If it is more negative than -12%, the fuel system has learned lean corrections which may be due to the MAF sensor over-estimating air flow at idle. Note that both Banks 1 and 2 will exhibit negative corrections for 2-bank system. If only one bank of a 2-bank system has negative corrections, the MAF sensor is probably not contaminated.
3. On a fully warmed up engine, look at MAF voltage at idle, in Neutral, A/C off (MAF V PID). If it's 30% greater than the nominal MAF V voltage listed in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Diagnostic Value Reference Charts for your vehicle, or greater than 1.1 volts as a rough guide, the MAF sensor is over-estimating air flow at idle.
4. If at least two of the previous three steps are true, proceed to disconnect the MAF sensor connector. This puts the vehicle into Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). In FMEM mode, air flow is inferred by using rpm and throttle position instead of reading the MAF sensor. (In addition, the BARO value is reset to a base/unlearned value.) If the lean driveability symptoms go away, the MAF sensor is probably contaminated and should be replaced. If the lean driveability symptoms do not go away, go to the PC/ED Service Manual for the appropriate diagnostics.
NOTE: DUE TO INCREASINGLY STRINGENT EMISSION/OBDII REQUIREMENTS, IT IS POSSIBLE FOR SOME VEHICLES WITH MAF SENSOR CONTAMINATION TO SET FUEL SYSTEM DTCs AND ILLUMINATE THE MIL WITH NO DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS. DISCONNECTING THE MAF ON THESE VEHICLES WILL, THEREFORE, PRODUCE NO IMPROVEMENTS IN DRIVEABILITY. IN THESE CASES, IF THE BARO, LONGFT1, LONGFT2, AND MAF V PIDs INDICATE THAT THE MAF IS CONTAMINATED, PROCEED TO REPLACE THE MAF SENSOR.

After replacing the MAF sensor, disconnect the vehicle battery (5 minutes, minimum) to reset KAM, or on newer vehicles, use the "KAM Reset" feature on the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester and verify that the lean driveability symptoms are gone.


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only

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Throttle Plate Orifice Plug Service Installation

Some steps in the following procedure reference special tools or equipment, but reading the procedure will still be informative, and should allow proper idle speed adjustments using common tools.



How to adjust idle speed (official Ford procedure - use ONLY if the factory throttle stop screw has been tampered with)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine Idle Speed Check & Adjustment - Follow this procedure as directed step-by-step, noting the applicability of each step. Skipping through the procedure will result in abnormal idle & possibly other driveability symptoms.

AIS7
Verify that the following engine systems have been properly diagnosed and corrected before proceeding with the Air Intake System diagnostics:
- Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System.
- Exhaust System.
- Ignition System (Refer to maintenance schedule).
- Engine Cooling System (engine coolant temperature is above 160 degrees F).
- Fuel pressure, fuel filter, fuel quality (contamination).

AIS8
Key on, engine running with engine at idle, listen for vacuum leaks. Inspect the entire inlet air system from the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor to the intake manifold for leaks such as:
- Cracked or punctured outlet air tube or air cleaner housing assembly.
- Loose connections on the inlet air tube at the air cleaner housing or throttle body.
- Idle Air Control (IAC) valve assembly or gasket seal.
- Intake manifold assembly or gasket seal.
- EGR valve diaphragm or control solenoid.
- EGR valve gasket seal leak to intake manifold.
- Vacuum supply connectors and hose.
- PCV connectors and hose.

AIS9
NOTE: Engine idle RPM is controlled by the PCM and cannot be adjusted. This test will verify the idle rpm is within the specification. If the engine is allowed to idle for an extended period of time, or if the engine temperature is hot enough to require cooling fan operation, it may be necessary to turn the engine off and repeat this test procedure.
- Transmission in Park (wheels blocked and parking brake engaged).
- A/C, heater and all accessories are off.
- Key on, engine running.
- Engine at normal operating temperature and cooling fan off.
WARNING: DO NOT UNPLUG COOLING FAN. IT MAY CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING.

Idle RPM Check
NOTE: Idle rpm check should only be performed after Diagnostic Test Steps AIS7 through AIS9 have been completed.
- Transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL.
- Parking brakes applied (automatic brake release disconnected where applicable).
- Driving wheels blocked.
- Generator belt tension.
- Heater and accessories off.
- Throttle lever resting on the throttle plate stop screw.
- EEC-IV diagnostics performed and vehicle malfunction indicated by Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

NOTE: For additional information, refer to Fuel/Engine Group in the Car or Truck Service Manual.

NOTE: The curb idle and fast idle RPMs are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is not adjustable. A large increase or decrease in closed plate airflow from the calibrated level will not allow this device to effectively control the rpm.

Throttle bodies with sludge tolerant design are clearly identified with a yellow/black attention decal. Refer to Figure 23 for the location of decal. This decal advises that the throttle return screw must not be adjusted counter-clockwise (backed off), as this will not reduce the engine speed but may cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore in the closed (idle) position. Backing out the screw may be required if the throttle body had been previously serviced (a plug may be present in the throttle plate orifice) or if the throttle return screw has been tampered with (TP sensor self-test output out of range), refer to the appropriate procedure for details. The decal also advises that these throttle bodies must not be cleaned inside the bore, as cleaning will impair the sensitive coating. The sludge accumulation will not affect the throttle body idle air flow. (The cleaning procedure for the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve may still apply. Refer to the Service Manual.)

Throttle bodies should not be cleaned because cleaning will remove the sludge tolerant coating.

Follow these steps to service the throttle body:

1. Remove the throttle body.
2. Hold it up to a light. No light should be visible between the plate and bore with the throttle plate closed. The hole in the plate should be visible and unobstructed.
3. Rotate the throttle lever and allow it to return. It should not stick or bind. It should return to the closed plate (idle) position freely when released.

If the problem cannot be corrected (an obstruction cannot be removed, free sticking, etc.), the throttle body must be replaced.

Procedure Selection Chart: (The 1995 applications with self-test idle rpm check use procedure A; those without use procedure B.)

ENGINE - - - - - - - - - VEHICLE - - - - - - - PROCEDURE
3.0L - - - - - - - - - - - Aerostar - - - - - - - - - - B
4.0L - - - - - - - - - - - Aerostar - - - - - - - - Not Adjustable
4.9L - - - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - A
5.0L MFI - - - - - - - - - Non E4OD - - - - - - - - - B
5.0L MFI - - - - - - - - - - E4OD - - - - - - - - - - - A
5.0L SFI - - - - - - - - - - AODE - - - - - - - - - - - A
5.8L - - - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - A
7.0L MFI - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - A
7.5L MFI - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - B

Procedure A
1. Activate engine running self-test. See this page.
2. After DTC slow code output is completed, unlatch and within 4 seconds latch the STI button. (If using a jumper wire in the DLC, remove it for LESS than 4 sec.)
3. A single pulse code indicates the entry mode, then observe the Self-Test Output (STO) of the STAR Tester in Item 4. If adjustment is required in Item 4, refer to possible causes listed in A1S7 and A1S8 and correct them as required.
Continue with this procedure if necessary.
4. Observe STAR tester or CEL or other indicator.
- A. Constant tone, solid light or "STO LO" readout means base idle rpm is within range. To exit test, unlatch STI button , then wait four seconds for reinitialization (after 10 minutes it will exit by itself).
- B. Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (8 Hz) indicates TP sensor is out of range due to over adjustment; adjustment may be required.
- C. Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (4 Hz) indicates base idle rpm is too fast, adjustment is required, go to step 6.
- D. Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (1 Hz) indicates base idle rpm is too slow, adjustment is required, go to step 5.
5. If rpm is too slow, follow applicable procedure for the engine being serviced.
- A. Do not clean the throttle body. Turn the air trim screw counter-clockwise until conditions in step 4(A) are satisfied.
- B. Do not clean the throttle body. Check for the plate orifice plug. If there is no plug, turn throttle return screw clockwise until conditions in Step 4(A) are satisfied. If there is a plug from previous service, remove plug and then adjust screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.
6. If rpm is too high, follow applicable procedure for the engine being serviced.
- A. Do not clean the throttle body. Turn the air trim screw clockwise until conditions in Step 4(A) are satisfied.
- B. Turn engine OFF.
- - a. Block off the orifice in the throttle plate temporarily with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service, go to Step (c).
- - b. Restart the engine and check idle speed using Self-Test (mass air packages require air intake hose to be reattached first). If engine stalled, crack open the plate by turning the throttle return screw clockwise.
- - c. If rpm continues to be fast, perform test in Step 7. If TP sensor DTC is within range, remove tape, go to Section 2A for other causes. If out of range, adjust throttle return screw for proper TP sensor DTC code (lever pad must be in contact with screw after adjustment). If rpm is still fast, terminate this procedure and go to Section 2A for other possible causes.
- - d. However, if rpm drops to or below the desired level, as indicated by Self -Test Output tone, turn the engine off, disconnect air cleaner hose, remove the tape.
- - e. Install the plug with proper color code depending on throttle plate orifice size (refer to the end of this section).
- - f. Reconnect the air cleaner hose - start the engine, turn the throttle return screw clockwise (do not turn it counter -clockwise as this may cause the throttle plate to stick at idle) until conditions in Step 4(A) are satisfied.
7. Run KOEO Self-Test for proper TP sensor DTC.
8. Verify the throttle plate is not stuck in the bore at idle position and linkage is not preventing throttle from closing.
9. On Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) applications, check TV pressure adjustment.

Procedure B
1. Engine off, disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery for five minutes, then reconnect it.
2. Start engine and stabilize for two minutes, then goose engine and let it return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator and let engine idle. NOTE: If electric fan comes on, wait until it turns off.
3. If engine idles properly, exit this procedure.
4. Unplug SPOUT line (except 7.5L) and verify ignition timing is base ±2 deg BTDC (refer to VECI decal).
7. Disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid
8. Start engine and run at idle for 120 sec (7.5L - 2500 rpm for 30 sec).
9. Place automatic transmission in PARK, manual transmission in NEUTRAL.
10. Check idle rpm to the range using tachometer. 5.0L MFI Truck Non-E4OD: Auto 675±50 Man 700±50; 7.5L: 650±50
- A. If rpm is too low, do not clean the throttle body. Check for the plate orifice plug. If there is no plug, turn throttle return screw clockwise to the desired rpm ±25. If there is a plug from previous service, remove plug and then adjust screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.
- B. If rpm is too high, turn engine off.
- - a. Disconnect air cleaner hose.
- - b. Block off the orifice in the throttle plate temporarily with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service, go to Step f. If the orifice does not have a plug, go to Step e.
- - c. Restart the engine and check idle speed using a tachometer (mass air applications will require air cleaner hose to be reattached before rpm check). If engine stalled, crack open the plate by turning throttle return screw clockwise. Do not over adjust.
- - d. If rpm continues to be fast, perform test in Step 18. If TP sensor DTC is within
range, remove tape, go to Section 2A for other causes. If out of range, adjust throttle return screw for proper TP sensor DTC. Lever pad must be in contact with the screw. If rpm is still fast, terminate this procedure and go to Section 2A for other possible causes.
- - e. If rpm drops to value in Step 10 or below, or engine stalls, turn the engine off, disconnect air cleaner hose, remove the tape.
- - f. Install the plug with proper color code depending on orifice size (refer to the end of
this Section).
- - g. Reconnect the air cleaner hose - start the engine. Check idle rpm using a tachometer. Turn the throttle return screw clockwise (do not turn it counter-clockwise as this may cause the throttle plate to stick at idle) to the nominal rpm ± 25 shown in Step 10.
11. Shut engine off and repeat steps 8, 9 and 10.
12. Remove the feeler gauge between plate stop screw and throttle lever.
13. Shut engine off and disconnect battery for 10 minutes minimum.
14. Reconnect SPOUT line (except 7.5L).
15. Remove Rotunda tool. Unplug PCV hose. Reconnect CANP and PCV hoses to the intake manifold.
16. Engine off, reconnect Idle Air Control solenoid, verify the throttle plate is not stuck in the bore at idle position and linkage is not preventing throttle from closing.
17. Start engine and stabilize for two minutes, then goose engine and let it return to idle. Lightly press and release the accelerator and let engine idle. If idle problem still persists, go to Section 2A for other possible causes.
18. Run KOEO Self-Test for proper TP sensor DTC.
19. On Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) applications, check TV pressure adjustment.


Throttle Plate Orifice Plug Service Installation Procedure

1. Remove air inlet tube(s) from throttle body.
2. Select the proper color plug by using the Go/No-Go gauge pegs included with the service kit F0PZ-9F652-A. (Refer to Figure.)
3. Starting with the largest diameter gauge peg, attempt to insert it through the throttle plate orifice.
4. If the gauge peg goes through the orifice, use the corresponding color plug. If it does not go through, proceed with the next smaller gauge peg for Go/No-Go Test.
NOTE: It is important that the largest Go/No-Go combination is used to determine the proper plug size.
5. If the smallest gauge peg does not go through the orifice, use the reamer bit and handle included with the service kit to enlarge the plate orifice. Wipe bearing grease on both sides of the plate orifice and on the reamer bit to hold the brass chips. After reaming, wipe the plate clean and then return to Step 3 to determine the proper plug size.
6. Using the installation tool from the service kit, apply some bearing grease to the tip of the tool to help hold the plug on the tool, then push the plug into the orifice until it bottoms out at the throttle plate.
7. Open and snap shut the throttle several times to verify proper plug retention.
8. Reconnect air inlet tube(s).
9. Reset idle rpm per engine requirement using the throttle return screw.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After resetting the throttle stop to its factory location, check the TPS range:


For the IAC cleaning procedure, see this caption:


For IAC replacement, see this caption:


Idle Air Trim

Idle Air Trim is designed to adjust the Idle Air Control (IAC) calibration to correct for wear and aging of components. When engine conditions meet the learning requirement, the strategy monitors the engine and determines the values required for ideal idle calibration. The Idle Air Trim values are stored in a table for reference. This table is used by the PCM as a correction factor when controlling idle speed. The table is stored in keep alive memory (KAM) and retains the learned values even after the engine is shut off. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is output if the Idle Air Trim has reached its learning limits.

Whenever an IAC component is replaced or cleaned or a service affecting idle is performed, it is recommended that keep alive memory be cleared. This is necessary so the idle strategy does not use the previously learned Idle Air Trim values. It is important to note that erasing DTCs with a scan tool does not reset the Idle Air Trim table.

Once keep alive memory has been reset, the engine must idle for 15 minutes (actual time varies between strategies) to learn new idle air trim values. Idle quality will improve as the strategy adapts. Adaptation occurs in four separate modes. The modes are shown in the following table.

IDLE AIR TRIM LEARNING MODES
Transmission Range - Air Conditioning Mode
NEUTRAL - A/C ON
NEUTRAL - A/C OFF
DRIVE - A/C ON
DRIVE - A/C OFF

Idle Speed Control Closed Throttle Determination

One of the fundamental criteria for entering rpm control is an indication of closed throttle. Throttle mode is always calculated to the lowest learned throttle position (TP) voltage seen since engine start. This lowest learned value is called "ratch," since the software acts like a one-way ratch. The ratch value (voltage) is displayed as the TPREL PID. The ratch value is relearned after every engine start. Ratch will learn the lowest, steady TP voltage seen after the engine starts. In some cases, ratch can learn higher values of TP. The time to learn the higher values is significantly longer than the time to learn the lower values. The brakes must also be applied to learn the higher values.

All PCM functions are done using this ratch voltage, including idle speed control. The PCM goes into closed throttle mode when the TP voltage is at the ratch (TPREL PID) value. Increase in TP voltage, normally less than 0.05 volts, will put the PCM in part throttle mode. Throttle mode can be viewed by looking at the TP MODE PID. With the throttle closed, the PID must read C/T (closed throttle). Slightly corrupt values of ratch can prevent the PCM from entering closed throttle mode. An incorrect part throttle indication at idle will prevent entry into closed throttle rpm control, and could result in a high idle. Ratch can be corrupted by a throttle position sensor or circuit that "drops out" or is noisy, or by loose/worn throttle plates that close tight during a decel and spring back at a normal engine vacuum.

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IAC solenoid valves
Key off, IAC solenoid disconnected, resistance through the IAC pins should be between 6.0 and 13.0 ohms. Resistance from either pin to the case should be greater than 10Kohms.
NOTE: Due to diode in solenoid, place DVOM(plus) lead on VPWR pin (near connector catch) and (-) lead on IAC pin (near index notch of connector shell.

Hitachi Idle Air Control Valve Recommended Cleaning Procedure
CAUTION: This cleaning procedure may be used with sludge tolerant bodies which are identified with a yellow/black "attention" label. No attempt should be made to clean the throttle body bore/plate area by directly spraying or scrubbing. Do not run engines with airflow meters during the cleaning procedure.

1. Plug the Rotunda Air Bypass Valve Actuator 113-00009 or equivalent into the Rotunda Fuel Injector Tester/Cleaner 113-00001 or equivalent.
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube (9B659) to the throttle body (9E926).
3. Disconnect the idle air control valve signal lead.
4. Attach the Rotunda Air Bypass Valve Actuator 113-00009 or equivalent plug to the idle air control valve (IAC valve) (9F715).
5. CAUTION: Do not start engines that have airflow meters. Start the actuator and then start the engine.
6. Spray Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner D9AZ-19579-BA meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P9-A or equivalent for about five seconds into the inlet passage while the actuator is operating. Avoid direct spraying on throttle plate/bore area.
7. Stop the engine and actuator. Let everything soak for 15 minutes.
8. CAUTION: Do not start engines that have airflow meters. Start the actuator and then start the engine.
9. Spray Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner D9AZ-19579-BA, meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P9-A or equivalent, into the idle air control valve passage leading to the inlet of the valve for up to one minute. Do not spray for longer than six continuous seconds on engines that have airflow meters and are not running.
10. Stop the actuator and stop the engine if running.
11. Reinstall the air cleaner outlet tube.
12. Start and run the engine for about one minute to dry out the solvent residue.
13. Operate the actuator to make sure the solvent is purged from the idle air control valve.
14. Disconnect the actuator from the idle air control valve.
15. Reattach the control signal lead to the idle air control valve.
16. Check the engine for normal operation.


Alternate Cleaning Procedure for Hitachi IACs
NOTE: Method to be used only when the Rotunda Fuel Injector Tester/Cleaner 113-00001 and Air Bypass Valve Actuator 113-00009 or equivalent for the recommended method are not available.

1. Remove the idle air control valve from the throttle body.
2. Remove the electrical solenoid assembly from the mechanical portion of the idle air control valve by removing the two screws, then sliding the mechanical portion away from the solenoid.
3. CAUTION: Do not exceed three minutes soak time, and do not use choke cleaner as an internal O-ring may begin to deteriorate. Soak the mechanical portion in Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner D9AZ-19579-BA meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P9-A or equivalent for two to three minutes maximum.
4. With the mechanical portion completely submerged, shake in all directions: up, down, right and left. Then push in on the rod that mates with the solenoid assembly, and again shake in all directions with the unit submerged and the rod held in as far as possible.
5. Remove the unit from the cleaning fluid and dry out thoroughly using shop air.

See also:


Idle Air Trim

Idle Air Trim is designed to adjust the Idle Air Control (IAC) calibration to correct for wear and aging of components. When engine conditions meet the learning requirement, the strategy monitors the engine and determines the values required for ideal idle calibration. The Idle Air Trim values are stored in a table for reference. This table is used by the PCM as a correction factor when controlling idle speed. The table is stored in keep alive memory (KAM) and retains the learned values even after the engine is shut off. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is output if the Idle Air Trim has reached its learning limits.

Whenever an IAC component is replaced or cleaned or a service affecting idle is performed, it is recommended that keep alive memory be cleared. This is necessary so the idle strategy does not use the previously learned Idle Air Trim values. It is important to note that erasing DTCs with a scan tool does not reset the Idle Air Trim table.

Once keep alive memory has been reset, the engine must idle for 15 minutes (actual time varies between strategies) to learn new idle air trim values. Idle quality will improve as the strategy adapts. Adaptation occurs in four separate modes. The modes are shown in the following table.

IDLE AIR TRIM LEARNING MODES
Transmission Range - Air Conditioning Mode
NEUTRAL - A/C ON
NEUTRAL - A/C OFF
DRIVE - A/C ON
DRIVE - A/C OFF

Idle Speed Control Closed Throttle Determination

One of the fundamental criteria for entering rpm control is an indication of closed throttle. Throttle mode is always calculated to the lowest learned throttle position (TP) voltage seen since engine start. This lowest learned value is called "ratch," since the software acts like a one-way ratch. The ratch value (voltage) is displayed as the TPREL PID. The ratch value is relearned after every engine start. Ratch will learn the lowest, steady TP voltage seen after the engine starts. In some cases, ratch can learn higher values of TP. The time to learn the higher values is significantly longer than the time to learn the lower values. The brakes must also be applied to learn the higher values.

All PCM functions are done using this ratch voltage, including idle speed control. The PCM goes into closed throttle mode when the TP voltage is at the ratch (TPREL PID) value. Increase in TP voltage, normally less than 0.05 volts, will put the PCM in part throttle mode. Throttle mode can be viewed by looking at the TP MODE PID. With the throttle closed, the PID must read C/T (closed throttle). Slightly corrupt values of ratch can prevent the PCM from entering closed throttle mode. An incorrect part throttle indication at idle will prevent entry into closed throttle rpm control, and could result in a high idle. Ratch can be corrupted by a throttle position sensor or circuit that "drops out" or is noisy, or by loose/worn throttle plates that close tight during a decel and spring back at a normal engine vacuum.

For base idle check & adjustment:


After adjusting the throttle stop, check the TPS range:

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Throttle Position Sensor/Signal Response Graph
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This voltage is measured with the TPS connected normally, the key in RUN, the black meter probe on the SIG RTN wire (Bk/Wh or Gy/R), the VREF wire (Br/Wh) at 5VDC, & the red probe on the TP wire (DG/LG or Gy/Wh). Use pierce probes through the wires (or stickpins), or back probes in the connector.



The response signal must remain within the bright green area through the throttle's entire travel to pass. The dark green trace is good; the rust brown trace is a fail because it runs outside; the pink trace is a fail because it begins outside.

See this diagram for applications:

4.9L ('90-95) MotorCraft CX1426
V8s ('87-95) Motorcraft CX1228

Only very old TPSs require or allow adjustment. Modern EECs adapt automatically to the TPS output at startup, as described below. BEFORE attempting to adjust the TPS idle voltage, confirm that the throttle stop screw has not been tampered with. For the full procedure to reset the throttle stop screw, see this caption:


Idle Speed Control Closed Throttle Determination

One of the fundamental criteria for entering rpm control is an indication of closed throttle. Throttle mode is always calculated to the lowest learned throttle position (TP) voltage seen since engine start. This lowest learned value is called "ratch," since the software acts like a one-way ratchet. The ratch value (voltage) is displayed as the TPREL PID. The ratch value is relearned after every engine start. Ratch will learn the lowest, steady TP voltage seen after the engine starts. In some cases, ratch can learn higher values of TP. The time to learn the higher values is significantly longer than the time to learn the lower values. The brakes must also be applied to learn the higher values.

All PCM functions are done using this ratch voltage, including idle speed control. The PCM goes into closed throttle mode when the TP voltage is at the ratch (TPREL PID) value. Increase in TP voltage, normally less than 0.05 volts, will put the PCM in part throttle mode. Throttle mode can be viewed by looking at the TP MODE PID. With the throttle closed, the PID must read C/T (closed throttle). Slightly corrupt values of ratch can prevent the PCM from entering closed throttle mode. An incorrect part throttle indication at idle will prevent entry into closed throttle rpm control, and could result in a high idle. Ratch can be corrupted by a throttle position sensor or circuit that "drops out" or is noisy, or by loose/worn throttle plates that close tight during a decel and spring back at a normal engine vacuum.

BEFORE attempting to remove the TPS, see this caption:


For other sensors:


Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

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Sensor & Actuator Testing Values
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Resistance (Ohms) is measured with the device DISconnected (so the key doesn't need to be ON). Voltage is measured with the circuit complete & key in RUN, as during normal operation. Back-probe the connector, or pierce-probe the wires.

.

EEC Pinouts

Wiring Diagrams

TPS to SIGRET


EVR / DPFEGR to SIGRET
.

HEGO to SIGRET
.

ECT - LG/Y or LG/R to SIGRET
ACT - Y/R or Gy to SIGRET
VPWR - R - battery voltage (~12VDC)
VREF - Br/Wh or Or/Wh - 5VDC
SIGRET - Bk/W or Gy/R - 0V (ground)

MLPS - LB/Y (TR SIgnal) to SIGRET
. . . .

MAP - difficult to test accurately; consider finding a known-good one to swap in temporarily for diagnosis
E67F-9F479-A2A Motorcraft CX-2403

MAF - fragile; do not spray or probe inside sensor; do not blow compressed air through sensor


IAC / ISC / BPA to VPWR


Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

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EVP Output Graph

Voltage is measured from the Br/LG wire (EVP) to Gy/R (SigRet) with the key in RUN and the sensor connected normally. Check Br/Wh (VRef) to Gy/R for 5VDC. Use a handheld vacuum pump (e.g. MityVac) to operate the EGR valve.



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See also:
.

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EGR Tubes for (early; non-PFE/DPFE) 5.0L & 5.8L
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve 9D460
2 - EGR Valve to Exhaust Manifold Tube 9D477 (4.9L F4TZ9D477C = Dorman 598-105; 5.8L EVP FOTZ9D477A)
3 - EGR Tube Nuts (2); 34-47 N-m (25-35 Ft-Lb) (Part of 9D477)
4 - Adaptor; 34-47 N-m (25-35 Ft-Lb) N803575
5 - Intake Manifold Support 9J444
6 - Stud 5/16-18 x 1.85 Hex Shoulder; 20-27 N-m (15-20 Ft-Lb) 388377
7 - Nut 3/8-16; 16-24 N-m (12-18 Ft-Lb) 45358
8 - Manifold, Exhaust 9430
9 - Upper intake manifold 9K461
10 - EGR Valve Gasket 9D476
11 - Wiring Retainer 14A163
12 - EGR Valve Tube to Manifold Connector; 54-68 N-m (40-50 Ft-Lb) (Must be installed with flanged shoulder toward exhaust manifold.) 9F485

.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions system systems on your vehicle, read this article. The EGR section appears below.

Vacuum Operated EGR Systems-
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System is designed to reintroduce exhaust gas into the combustion cycle lowering combustion temperatures and reducing the formation of Nitrous Oxide.

Overview
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system controls the oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions. Small amounts of exhaust gases are recirculated back into the combustion chamber to mix with the air/fuel charge. The combustion chamber temperature is reduced, lowering NOx emissions.

The EGR system is enabled only during part throttle modes when the engine is warm and stabilized. These conditions exist after a length of time has elapsed since engine start-up, the Throttle Position (TP) sensor indicates part throttle, and the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor indicates a warm engine. The EGR system is disabled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) whenever the TP sensor indicates closed throttle or wide open throttle. The disable function is necessary to avoid driveability concerns during idle and maximum power demands. While EGR gases are being introduced, the PCM also compensates for changes in the air/fuel ratio by modifying injector pulse width and ignition spark advance.

There are two basic types of EGR systems:
* The PFE/DPFE System (9J460 9D475)
* The EVP System 9F483 (9H473 9G428 )

The amount of exhaust gas reintroduced and the timing of the cycle varies by calibration and is controlled by factors such as engine speed, engine vacuum, exhaust system back pressure, coolant temperature and throttle angle. All EGR valves are vacuum actuated. The vacuum diagram is shown on the emission decal for each calibration.

Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE/DPFE) Systems -
.
PFE is a subsonic closed loop EGR system that controls EGR flow rate by monitoring the pressure drop across a remotely located sharp-edged orifice. The system uses a pressure transducer (9J460) as the feedback device and controlled pressure is varied by valve modulation using vacuum output of the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid (9J459). With a PFE system, the EGR valve only serves as a pressure regulator rather than a flow metering device. The Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) system operates in the same manner except it directly monitors the pressure drop across the metering orifice. This allows for a more accurate assessment of EGR flow requirements.

System Components

PFE EGR Valve - 9D460 (9D475)
The PFE EGR valve is a conventional ported EGR valve. The service replacement for this valve is 9D475 which does not include the pickup tube/plug. The original pickup tube/plug should be used with the new service valve (9D475).

PFE and DPFE Sensors - 9J460
The Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) and Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (Motorcraft DPFE15) sensors convert a varying exhaust pressure signal into a proportional analog voltage which is digitized by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM uses the signal received from the PFE or DPFE sensor to compute the optimum EGR flow.

The EVP EGR Valve is required in EEC systems where EGR flow is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor attached to the valve.

The valve is operated by a vacuum signal from the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Solenoid (9J459) which actuates the valve diaphragm.

As supply vacuum overcomes the spring load, the diaphragm is actuated. This lifts the pintle off its seat allowing exhaust gas to recirculate (flow). The amount of flow is proportional to the pintle position. The EVP sensor mounted on the valve sends an electrical signal of its position to the PCM (12A650).

The EGR valve for this system is a vacuum operated EGR valve which maintains a sonic flow in the valve seat/pintle area.

The EVP sensor (9G428 ) and EGR valve (9H473) are serviced separately.

EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor - 9G428 Motorcraft CX1464
The EVP sensor provides the EEC system with a signal indicating position of the EGR valve.

EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Solenoid - 9J459
The EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid is an electromagnetic device which controls vacuum output to the EGR valve. An electric current in the coil induces a magnetic field in the armature which pulls on a disk closing the vent to atmosphere. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) outputs a duty cycle to the EVR which regulates the vacuum level to the EGR valve. As the duty cycle is increased, so is the vacuum signal to the EGR valve. The vacuum source is manifold vacuum.



On some applications, a current control thermistor device is also used to compensate for extreme temperature operation. The EVR solenoid and thermistor are serviced as an assembly.



Vacuum Reservoir - 9E453
The Vacuum Reservoir (coffee can) stores vacuum and provides "muscle" vacuum. It prevents rapid fluctuations or sudden drops in a vacuum signal such as those seen during an acceleration period.

Vacuum Reservoir Diagnosis -
When charged initially with 51-67 kPa (15-20 in-Hg) vacuum, vacuum loss shall not exceed 2 kPa (.5 in-Hg) in 60 seconds. If it does, replace the reservoir.

Vacuum Check Valve -12A197
A vacuum check valve blocks airflow in one direction and frees airflow in the other direction. The check side of this valve will hold the highest vacuum seen on the vacuum side. If not, replace it.

Vacuum Check Valve Diagnosis -
Apply 54 kPa (16 in-Hg) vacuum to "check" side of valve and trap. If vacuum remains above 50.6 kPa (15 in-Hg) for 10 seconds, the valve is acceptable.

See also:
.

NOx/EGR Emissions:

To get the maximum power & efficiency from an engine, most designers set the fuel/air mixture slightly lean, and advance the ignition timing. But these adjustments also result in very high combustion temperatures, which allow the formation of oxides of Nitrogen (air's 2 main components). These compounds dissolve into rain to form acid which affects agriculture, lakes, & even stone buildings and paint. Another way to increase the engine's power is to reduce its moving mass by using Aluminum & its alloys for the pistons & connecting rods. But the high temperature can even oxidize the Aluminum & burn through the pistons, causing catastrophic engine failure. (Aluminum heads don't suffer as badly since they're water-cooled.) So to permit this increased performance, AND to reduce emissions, engineers found that introducing a metered quantity of inert exhaust gas back into the intake would significantly reduce the combustion temperature, WITHOUT a corresponding reduction in power or efficiency. As with other emissions systems, early implementations of EGR had problems that lead to a common misconception about its practicality. The engineers designing the alloy pistons weren't necessarily using the same design parameters as those developing the EGR systems, so both were overly conservative, and performance suffered. But modern engine management systems are more synchronized, and EGR is actually beneficial when properly maintained. Modern catalytic converters are also designed to reduce NOx emissions. Engines designed without EGR are either running rich (to keep the combustion temps down), or are using exceptionally-precise operating parameters to minimize NOx formation.

Failures in the EGR system commonly result from the same type of vacuum leaks & wiring damage that can affect the 2ndry air controls, but excessive soot in the exhaust can block the EGR journals in the intake, resulting in insufficient EGR flow. Also, the EGR valve's pintle can crack, allowing exhaust to pass even when the valve is commanded closed. There is a common misconception about water contamination inside the PFE/DPFE, but that water is safe & insignificant; the actual cause of that problem was a design flaw in the sensor itself, which has been corrected. On some older engines, the EGR's external tube is known to crack or rust allowing an exhaust leak, but modern tubes are stainless & much more reliable.

For more info about emissions systems, read this article.

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TPS Application Chart CARS

See this diagram for TRUCKS:

See this diagram for testing:


Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

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TRUCK TPS Application Chart '93-95

See this diagram for CARS:

See this diagram for testing:


Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

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OBD-II HEGO Identification & Location
Earlier systems (pre-'96) used only 1 HEGO immediately before the first cat.

.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

Upper pane is for 4 HEGO systems (OBD-II). Middle pane is for 1 (EEC-IV) or 2 (inline engine OBD-II). Rare 3-HEGO system (not shown) for early OBD-II uses locations 11, 21, & 12 (single downstream at catalyst exit). Lower pane is Catalyst Monitoring Function.

'96 Bronco HEGO12 is at the outlet of the 2nd cat, just before the pipe hanger & flange for the muffler inlet.

My '93 5.8L uses Bosch HEGO F1UF-9F472-AA (DY-731), 0 258 003 384, 366 16 90, 3 F 16 (probably the date code: 1993 6th month 16th day).

The heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) detects the presence of oxygen in the exhaust and produces a variable voltage according to the amount of oxygen detected. A high concentration of oxygen (lean air/fuel ratio) in the exhaust produces a low voltage signal less than 0.4 volt. A low concentration of oxygen (rich air/fuel ratio) produces a high voltage signal greater than 0.6 volt. The HO2S provides feedback to the PCM indicating air/fuel ratio in order to achieve a near stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 during closed loop engine operation. The HO2S generates a voltage between 0.0 and 1.1 volts between the HEGO wire (Gy/LB) and SIGRET wire (Gy/R).

Embedded with the sensing element is the HO2S heater. The heating element heats the sensor to temperatures of 800C (1400°F). At approximately 300C (600°F) the engine can enter closed loop operation. The VPWR circuit supplies voltage to the heater and the PCM will complete the ground when the proper conditions occur. For model year 1998 a new HO2S heater and heater control system are installed on some vehicles. The high power heater reaches closed loop fuel control temperatures sooner, regardless of exhaust system temperature. The use of this heater requires that the HO2S heater control be duty cycled, to prevent damage to the heater. The 6 ohm design is not interchangeable with new style 3.3 ohm heater.


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1/2-ton EFI Exhaust
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

'95-96 MAF has 2 upstream oxygen sensor bungs; all '96 have one downstream, in addition to any upstream.

'96 Bronco Catalyst-to-Muffler Flange takes obsolete gasket F6TZ-5C226-AB; not available from Ford, NAPA, Advance, CarQuest, O'Reilly, Walker. I used red silicone.

My '95 4.9L uses DY-733.
My '93 5.8L uses Bosch HEGO F1UF-9F472-AA (DY-731), 0 258 003 384, 366 16 90, 3 F 16 (probably the date code: 1993 6th month 16th day).

. . . . . .

Note: It is normal for a certain amount of moisture and staining to be present around the muffler seams. The presence of soot, light surface rust or moisture does not indicate a faulty muffler.

** Exhaust System Alignment **

A misaligned exhaust system is usually indicated by vibration, grounding, rattling or binding of system components. Often the associated noise is hard to distinguish from other chassis noises. Look for broken or loose clamps and brackets. Replace or tighten as necessary. It is important that exhaust clearances and alignment be maintained.

Perform the following procedures to align the system:

1. Loosen the retaining hardware, clamp and the pipe support brackets.

2. Align the exhaust system, beginning at the front of the vehicle, to establish maximum clearance.

3. Tighten all retainers to specification. Note: Tighten the flange nuts and the exhaust manifold nuts evenly and alternately.

Note: Three way catalytic converters (TWC) (5E212), exhaust inlet pipes (5246), mufflers (5230), brackets, clamps and insulators should be replaced if they are worn or badly corroded. Do not attempt to service these parts.

4. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.

** Service fix for Noise: Loose Catalyst or Muffler Heat Shields **

NOTE: At idle or during normal driving conditions, a buzz or rattle may be detected, which can be traced to the exhaust system. The heat shield attachment to the muffler or catalyst may come free. The loose shield will vibrate off the muffler or catalyst and cause the buzz or rattle.

1. Attach two worm clamps (Part #391218 ) to the catalyst or muffler as shown in the illustration. NOTE: The catalyst may have two cans. If shields on both cans are loose, four clamps (2 of each) will be required.

2. Align the clamp to secure the heat shield to the muffler or catalyst. NOTE: Torque the clamp to no more than 68 N-m (60 in-lb).

3. Trim excess band to approximately 25.4mm (1 inch).

___________________________________________________________
For exhaust leaks, see:

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'96 Bronco Catalyst-to-Muffler Flange requires obsolete gasket F6TZ-5C226-AB; not available from Ford, NAPA, Advance, CarQuest, O'Reilly, Walker. The bolt circle is MUCH larger than any other 3-bolt 2.25" flange.

.

To print this in 1:1 scale, click the image to be sure you're on the ORIGINAL-SIZE page. Save it, then print at 600dpi.


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'96 5.0L & 5.8L F-series Exhaust (except Lightning)

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

1 Catalytic Converter Assembly 5F250
2 Stud, Catalytic Converter-to-Exhaust Manifold 391104-S2
3 Nut, Catalytic Converter-to-Exhaust Manifold 375636-S309
4 Air Inlet Tube 9J454 (EXCEPT 5.8L)
5 Clamp N804034-S (all EXCEPT Bronco)
6 Muffler 5230
7 Catalytic Converter Heat Shield, Front 5E287
8 Bolt, Front Heat Shield N605905-S103
9 Nut, U-Lock N800295-S102
10 Catalytic Converter Heat Shield, Rear 5K283
11 Catalytic Converter 5F250
12 Rivet N647098-S
13 Muffler Assembly Bracket 5A246 (E6TZ-5A246-B)
14 Nut, Support Bracket N620481-S2
15 Nut, U-Lock N803714-S102
A - Tighten to 40-50 Nm (30-37 Lb-Ft)
B - Tighten to 34-46 Nm (24-34 Lb-Ft)
C - Tighten to 54-71 Nm (40-52 Lb-Ft)
D - Tighten to 22-28 Nm (16-21 Lb-Ft)
E - Tighten to 17-23 Nm (13-17 Lb-Ft)
F - Upstream HEGO bungs: Left-B2S1; Right-B1S1
G - 5.0L 50 States 5.8L 49 States (No Air Inlet Tube on California 5.8L)

The unidentified object in the main pipe directly below "4G" is the downstream HEGO (B1S2).

Note: It is normal for a certain amount of moisture and staining to be present around the muffler seams. The presence of soot, light surface rust or moisture does not indicate a faulty muffler.

To check for leaks, read this caption:


** Exhaust System Alignment **

A misaligned exhaust system is usually indicated by vibration, grounding, rattling or binding of system components. Often the associated noise is hard to distinguish from other chassis noises. Look for broken or loose clamps and brackets. Replace or tighten as necessary. It is important that exhaust clearances and alignment be maintained.

Perform the following procedures to align the system:

1. Loosen the retaining hardware, clamp and the pipe support brackets.

2. Align the exhaust system, beginning at the front of the vehicle, to establish maximum clearance.

3. Tighten all retainers to specification. Note: Tighten the flange nuts and the exhaust manifold nuts evenly and alternately.

Note: Three way catalytic converters (TWC) (5E212), exhaust inlet pipes (5246), mufflers (5230), brackets, clamps and insulators should be replaced if they are worn or badly corroded. Do not attempt to service these parts.

4. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.

** Service fix for Noise: Loose Catalyst or Muffler Heat Shields **

NOTE: At idle or during normal driving conditions, a buzz or rattle may be detected, which can be traced to the exhaust system. The heat shield attachment to the muffler or catalyst may come free. The loose shield will vibrate off the muffler or catalyst and cause the buzz or rattle.

1. Attach two worm clamps (Part #391218 ) to the catalyst or muffler as shown in the illustration. NOTE: The catalyst may have two cans. If shields on both cans are loose, four clamps (2 of each) will be required.

2. Align the clamp to secure the heat shield to the muffler or catalyst. NOTE: Torque the clamp to no more than 68 N-m (60 in-lb).

3. Trim excess band to approximately 25.4mm (1 inch).

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'93-95 Lightning Exhaust
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. .

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

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Dual Catalytic Converter

Unburned fuel is probably the single biggest concern in vehicle emissions, not only because it's the most detrimental to the environment, but also because it's a waste of money. As engine management technology has progressed, a continually-increasing proportion of fuel is burned within the combustion chambers where it produces useable energy. Possibly the single biggest step in this direction is EFI, which results in MUCH more precise control of fuel flow, MUCH better atomization, and consequentially higher engine efficiency & reliability. Electronic engine management has also contributed significantly by instantly adjusting fuel delivery to the engine's exact state, and to the operator's needs.

But overfuelling still occurs frequently (for several reasons), resulting in unacceptable HC emissions. The earliest attempt to reduce these emmissions was the addition of a device to "re-burn" the exhaust & consume this fuel (a "thermactor"). Engineers found that pure Platinum metal facilitated the reaction between fuel molecules & oxygen in the hot exhaust stream, without consuming the Platinum (meaning that it "catalyzes" the reaction). So powdered Platinum was mixed with ceramic clay & formed into honecomb-shaped tube extrusions to be incorporated in the exhaust system. Given its high surface area, the vast majority of the unburned fuel could be catalyzed before being emitted, but the Lead that was being added to gasoline as an anti-knock agent & valve guide lubricant coated the Platinum, requiring UNleaded fuel to be produced. (The anti-knock agents in unleaded fuel are cheaper than Lead, but oil companies recognized the opportunity to gouge consumers & priced the new fuel accordingly.)

Due to the high cost of Platinum & the expenses associated with developing the technology, early thermactors were undersized, resulting in exhaust restrictions that noticeably reduced engine performance. The initial solution was to add air to the exhaust (secondary air) using a belt-driven pump so that the fuel would burn more easily. But again; the system was too complicated & poorly designed for the typical mechanic to understand, so it was often neglected, modified, or sabotaged causing most people to think it was counterproductive or unnecessary.

Over time, the cost of producing catalytic converters has come down, and the quality of their construction has gone up, making them very reliable & effective. So effective, in fact, that most now don't require the addition of downstream air (Oxygen-storing catalysts). They have also been improved with additional catalyst chemicals that reduce CO & NOx emissions (3-way cats).

Currently, the single biggest threat to a catalytic convertor/thermactor is probably mechanical damage. Collisions, road debris, improper service technique, & fording can shatter the delicate ceramic structure, causing exhaust restriction, noise, & increased emissions.

But another significant threat is severe overfuelling (either because of fuel delivery or misfiring) which can overheat the ceramic substrate to the point that it powders & erodes. Modern engine management systems include dedicated downstream Oxygen sensors to monitor the catalysts' performance, but this performance generally has NO IMPACT on engine performance (exhaust restriction being the main exception).

. .

The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the "coffee can" reservoir on the R wheelwell), get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance.

.

For explanations of how the other emissions-control systems work & benefit the engine system, read this article.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 91-12-11 Converter Diagnosis

Publication Date: JUNE 12, 1991

LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
1988-91 F SUPER DUTY, F47

ISSUE: Lack of power or a no start condition may be diagnosed as an exhaust restriction caused by a plugged catalytic converter. A plugged catalytic converter (internal deterioration) is usually caused by abnormal engine operation.

ACTION: Diagnose the catalytic converter to confirm internal failure. Refer to the Catalyst and Exhaust System Diagnostic Section, in the Engine/Emissions Diagnostic Shop Manual and the following procedures for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes.
NOTE: IF TWO DIGIT CODES 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 AND 565 ARE RECIEVED, CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND.
If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault:
* Ignition Coil
* Distributor Cap
* Distributor Rotor
* Fouled Spark Plug
* Spark Plug Wires
* Air Filter
* Stuck Open Injector
* Fuel Contamination Engine OIL
* Manifold Leaks Intake/Exhaust
* Fuel Pressure
* Poor Power Ground
* Engine Not At Normal Operating Temperature
* HEGO Sensor
2. Spark timing that is retarded from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal.
b. Check computed timing with spout connected.
NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.
3. Misfiring spark plugs may cause an unburned fuel air mixture to pass through the catalyst, which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Check secondary ignition, hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer and check for a secondary ignition misfire.
NOTE: SERVICE ANY ITEM THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AT PROPER SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
4. Fuel pressure that is too high may cause rich air fuel mixtures to pass through the catalyst which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check fuel pressure, install fuel pressure gauge, start and run the engine at idle. Fuel pressures between 28 and 34 PSI are typical (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher).
b. Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher). Visually inspect vacuum line for raw fuel.
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURES ABOVE THESE VALUES SHOULD BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE CONCERN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
5. Throttle plates in the throttle body not returning to the proper closed position may cause excessive catalyst temperatures during downhill grades. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Visually inspect the throttle body and linkage for:
* Binding or sticking throttle linkage.
* Tight speed control linkage or cable.
* Vacuum line interference.
* Electrical harness interference.
NOTE: AFTERMARKET GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CABLES ASSOCIATED WITH POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, MAY ALSO INTERFERE WITH PROPER THROTTLE RETURN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
6. It is extremely important that all systems related to the engine and emission systems operate properly.
a. Visually inspect the engine compartment to make sure all vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.
b. Inspect all wiring harnesses and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.
c. Verify proper operation of the thermactor system. Thermactor systems that fail to dump thermactor air to the atmosphere properly or at the correct time can cause high catalyst temperatures.
d. Visually inspect thermactor system for damaged or kinked hoses and perform a function test on following components: air control valve, check valve, silencer, filter and the air bypass solenoid.
e. Verify proper operation of the engine cooling system thermostat.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage, Emissions Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
911211A Diagnostics - Perform KOEO And KOER Self Tests 0.5 Hrs.
911211B Timing - Check Or Adjust Spark Timing, Check Computed Timing And Check Secondary Ignition System With Engine Analyzer 0.5 Hrs.
911211C Check - Fuel Pressure And Inspect Vacuum Line For Raw Fuel 0.2 Hrs.
911211D Inspect - Throttle Body And Linkage 0.1 Hrs.
911211E Inspect - Vacuum Hoses, Electrical Harnesses, Connectors And Spark Plug Wires For Routing Damage 0.1 Hrs.
911211F Thermactor System - Inspect For Proper Operation And Damaged Component. Includes Function Check Of Air Control Valve, Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid, Check Valves, Silencer And Filter 0.3 Hrs.
911211G Thermostat - Check For Proper Operation 0.2 Hrs.

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Secondary Air Injection system consists of a belt-driven Air Pump, single or dual AIR Diverter valve(s), an AIR Bypass valve, and AIR Bypass solenoids, air silencer/filter, Powertrain Control Module and connecting wires and vacuum hoses. The Belt-Driven Secondary Air Injection system provides either upstream/bypass air or upstream/downstream/bypass air. The number of these system configurations vary significantly with AIR Bypass and AIR Diverter valve combinations (Figure 179).



1. The PCM requires ECT, IAT and rpm inputs to initiate Secondary Air Injection operation.

2. The PCM provides one or more signals that activate one or more AIR solenoids.

3. The AIR solenoids control one or more AIR Bypass valves and/or AIR Bypass Diverter Valves in order to route secondary air depending upon the specific configuration.

4. The belt-driven Air Pump is pulling air through the filter any time the engine is running. The state of the valves determines if that air is bypassed to the muffler, or diverted into the exhaust stream.

. . . . .

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article. This is a list of Automotive Terms & Abbreviations.

Unburned fuel is probably the single biggest concern in vehicle emissions, not only because it's the most detrimental to the environment, but also because it's a waste of money. As engine management technology has progressed, a continually-increasing proportion of fuel is burned within the combustion chambers where it produces useable energy. Possibly the single biggest step in this direction is EFI, which results in MUCH more precise control of fuel flow, MUCH better atomization, and consequentially higher engine efficiency & reliability. Electronic engine management has also contributed significantly by instantly adjusting fuel delivery to the engine's exact state, and to the operator's needs. But overfuelling still occurs frequently (for several reasons), resulting in unacceptable HC emissions. The earliest attempt to reduce these emmissions was the addition of a device to "re-burn" the exhaust & consume this fuel (a "thermactor"). Engineers found that pure Platinum metal facilitated the reaction between fuel molecules & oxygen in the hot exhaust stream, without consuming the Platinum (meaning that it "catalyzes" the reaction). So powdered Platinum was mixed with ceramic clay & formed into honecomb-shaped tube extrusions to be incorporated in the exhaust system. Given its high surface area, the vast majority of the unburned fuel could be catalyzed before being emitted, but the Lead that was being added to gasoline as an anti-knock agent coated the Platinum, requiring UNleaded fuel to be produced. (The anti-knock agents in unleaded fuel are cheaper than Lead, but oil companies recognized the opportunity to gouge consumers & priced the new fuel accordingly.) But the high cost of Platinum & the expenses associated with developing the technology caused early designers to undersize catalytic converters, resulting in exhaust restrictions that noticeably reduced engine performance. Their initial solution was to add air to the exhaust (secondary air) using a belt-driven pump so that the fuel would burn more easily. But again; the system was too complicated & poorly designed for the typical mechanic to understand, so it was often neglected, modified, or sabotaged causing most people to think it was counterproductive or unnecessary. Over time, the cost of producing catalytic converters has come down, and the quality of their construction has gone up, making them very reliable & effective. So effective, in fact, that most now don't require the addition of downstream air. They have also been improved with additional catalyst chemicals that reduce CO & NOx emissions (3-way cats). Currently, the single biggest threat to a catalytic convertor/thermactor is probably mechanical damage. Collisions, road debris, improper service technique, & fording can shatter the delicate ceramic structure, causing exhaust restriction, noise, & increased emissions. But another significant threat is severe overfuelling (either because of fuel delivery or misfiring) which can overheat the ceramic substrate to the point that it powders & erodes. Modern engine management systems include dedicated downstream Oxygen sensors to monitor the catalysts' performance, but this performance generally has [b]no impact[/b] on engine performance (exhaust restriction being the main exception).



The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the "coffee can" reservoir on the R wheelwell), get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. The 2ndry air pump can lock up mechanically. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance.

The early steel coffee can reservoir commonly rusts &/or cracks, and the later plastic reservoir is an easy upgrade.


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Secondary Air Valves & EVR (which has nothing to do with secondary air, but is a solenoid vacuum valve similar to the TAB & TAD, and is usually mounted beside them)

TAB & TAD solenoids should read 50-100 Ohms; each should hold vacuum applied to the source (farthest) nipple until 12V is applied across the solenoid terminals, at which point it should vent to the other nipple.

See also:
. . .

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Secondary Air Check Valve
If this valve fails, hot exhaust can blow into the 2ndry air system, melting plastic & possibly starting fires.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

See also:
. .

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4.9L Secondary Air

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

. . .

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'87-95 5.0L Secondary Air

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

. . . .

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'87-95 5.8L Secondary Air

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

. . . .

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Vacuum Map from '81 F250 351M w/C6

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'85 300ci Feedback Carb VECI Label on the filler panel beside the hood latch, between the core support & the grille



For other carburetors, try these:
http://www.garysgaragemahal.com
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp



Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.

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VECI label from '86 5.0L EFI



For the label specific to YOUR ~'90-up Ford, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.



For carburetors, try this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp

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Vacuum Routing '87 5.0L



For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.



For carburetors, try this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp

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Vacuum Routing '93 5.8L



For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '80-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.



For carburetors, try this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp

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Vacuum 94 5.jpg | Hits: 12832 | Size: 52.59 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


Vacuum Routing '94 5.0L



For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not easily visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. With some effort, it can be seen by removing the driver's kick panel & looking between the cowl & e-brake, or by removing the e-brake pedal assembly. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.



For carburetors, try this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp

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Vacuum94_58L.JPG | Hits: 9833 | Size: 43.33 KB | Posted on: 8/24/06 | Link to this image


Vacuum Routing '94 5.8L



For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.



For carburetors, try this:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605.jsp

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Vacuum Routing '96 4.9L



For the label specific to YOUR vehicle, click this link, then click "Quick Guides" in the sidebar, then click "VECI Labels" and find the calibration code on the sticker on your EEC. On '87-91 F-series & Broncos, it's in the driver's kick panel. '92-96 is in the same place, but it's not visible without removing the EEC into the engine compartment. Some '92-96 trucks also have the calibration code on a sticker in the door jamb, but it's hit-or-miss; I haven't found any pattern.

.

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'80-91 Bronco Frame Dimensions (mm)

1 - frame hole for front bumper
2 - body mount #1
3 - sway bar clamp, rear bolt
4 - steering box bolt
5 - steering box bolt
6 - driver's axle pivot
7 - crossmember #1 front huck fastener
8 - crossmember #1 rear rivet
9 - passenger's axle pivot
10 - point rivet
11 - radius arm bracket bottom rear fastener
12 - body mount #2
13 - radius arm
14 - transmission mount bolt
15 - crossmember #2 front bolt
16 - skidplate rear bolt
17 - frame slot
18 - body mount #3
19 - frame slot
20 - crossmember #4 bottom rivet
21 - frame slot
22 - rear spring rear shackle bolt
23 - body mount #5
24 - rear bumper bracket bolt
25 - body mount #4

For original, see:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205912

See also:
https://fordbbas.com/publications

. . .

Frame Service - Drilling Precautions

CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges. This will reduce the strength of frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:
1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.
2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.
3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the flange.
4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Frame Strength Identification
F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.

Frame Straightening
Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.
Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649°C (1200°F) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.
1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.
2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.
3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.
4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.
5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.
6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a flange crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.
7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.
8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.
9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.
10. The flange edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.
11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.
12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt.

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'80-96 Bronco Frames
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Shock towers, engine perches, radius arm brackets, riveted body perches, rear shock & spring mounts NOT SHOWN.

The '80-81 frame is dimensionally identical to the '82-86 frame; the only difference is the lightening holes.
The '87-91 frame has some extra slots in the front horns for that style of front bumper bracket, and possibly a minor change to the front body mount (core support mount).
The '92-96 accordion frame is 2 inches longer in front than the others, though its bumper mounting tabs are about 1 inch closer to the core support. Most also have a reinforcement along the top edge at the lowest point (under the front doors). Frames of this era are also specific to 2-/4WD due to the style of front sway bar mounts welded on. The diagram (being a Bronco frame) shows the 4WD sway bar tabs pointing inboard; 2WD tabs underhang each frame rail.

. . . . . . . . .

Frame Strength Identification
'80-96 F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.
'80-96 Bronco/F150 frame 0.146 thick
UNCONFIRMED RUMOR: '93-95 Lightning frame 0.17 thick

Frame Service - Drilling Precautions

CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges (top & bottom surfaces). This will reduce the strength of the frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:
1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.
2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.
3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the flange.
4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.
1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.
2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.
3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.
4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.
5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.
6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a flange crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.
7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.
8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.
9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.
10. The flange edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.
11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.
12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Straightening
Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.
Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649 degC (1200 degF) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt.

High-strength & heat-treated frame welding bulletin
https://fordbbas.com/publications
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin_tools/default.asp
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Frame-repair-kit-E5TZ-5K130-A-NOS-tp26054p26540.html

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Frame Details 1992



Frame Strength Identification
F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.
Bronco/F150 frame 0.146 thick
UNCONFIRMED RUMOR: Lightning frame 0.17 thick

Frame Service - Drilling Precautions

CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges. This will reduce the strength of frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:
1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.
2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.
3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the flange.
4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.
1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.
2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.
3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.
4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.
5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.
6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a flange crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.
7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.
8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.
9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.
10. The flange edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.
11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.
12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Straightening
Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.
Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649°C (1200°F) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt.

https://fordbbas.com/publications
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin_tools/default.asp

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Xmbrs92-96.jpg | Hits: 768 | Size: 80.57 KB | Posted on: 8/26/20 | Link to this image


'92-96 (& '97 >8500 GVWR) Frame Crossmembers

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Transmission Crossmembers '87-97

Apparently, '93-95 Lightnings use an extra "bridge" between the crossmember & the mount.

.

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Bronco Frame Dimensions 1992 (other years similar; '92-96 F150 similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
https://fordbbas.com/publications

. . . .

Frame Service - Drilling Precautions

CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges. This will reduce the strength of frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:
1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.
2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.
3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the flange.
4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Frame Strength Identification
F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.

Frame Straightening
Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.
Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649°C (1200°F) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.
1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.
2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.
3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.
4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.
5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.
6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a flange crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.
7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.
8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.
9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.
10. The flange edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.
11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.
12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt.

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1992 Bronco body.JPG | Hits: 13705 | Size: 64.42 KB | Posted on: 9/4/06 | Link to this image


Bronco Body Dimensions 1992


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Pickup Bed Bolts are not available new, but can be replaced by the newer design bolts (either genuine Ford or cheap aftermarket).

. .

Photos of a bed being removed can be found in this album:


For tailgate details, see this:


See also:

.

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Trans Manuals.jpg | Hits: 14118 | Size: 47.5 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


Old Manual Transmissions

adrianspeeder's Trans ID list


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Shifter Ball Installation (Early)

The knurled section's diameter is ~9/16" (~14mm)

The shift pattern insert for granny 4-sp.s (NP435) is E2TZ-7N280-D

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Manual Transmissions '92

See also:
.

ZF Application Chart
adrianspeeder's Trans ID list
__________________________________________
TSB 91-17-12
Publication Date: 08/21/91

NOISE - "GEAR RATTLE" - MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS - FROM FLOOR PAN SHIFTER OPENING (4X2 AND 4X4 MODELS)
TRANSMISSION - MANUAL - "GEAR RATTLE" NOISE FROM FLOOR PAN SHIFTER OPENING (4X2 AND 4X4 MODELS)

LIGHT TRUCK: 1988-91 BRONCO, F SUPER DUTY, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-47

ISSUE: Gear noise, commonly referred to as "gear rattle", may enter the cab through the manual transmission shift lever floor pan opening. This noise is normally noticed when the vehicle is at normal operating temperatures and a load is applied to the engine between 500 and 1000 RPM.
ACTION: Inspect and evaluate the vehicle for gear rattle. If gear rattle is detected, install a new shift boot over the shift lever to limit gear noise from entering the cab. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE:
1. Drive the vehicle till normal operating temperatures are maintained (about 10 miles at highway speeds when the ambient temperatures are above freezing.)
2. On a smooth road surface, place the shift lever in 2nd or 3rd gear and accelerate starting at 500 RPM.
3. If gear rattle is heard and is diagnosed as coming through the shift lever floor pan opening, repair using the following procedure.

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Remove the shift knob from the shift lever.
NOTE: TO REMOVE THE SHIFT KNOB WITHOUT DAMAGE, PLACE A 16 mm OR AN ADJUSTABLE OPEN END WRENCH UNDER THE SHIFT KNOB END AND STRIKE THE WRENCH UPWARD WITH A HEAVY HAMMER.
2. Remove the (4) screws which secure the boot to the floor. Remove the boot assembly from the the shift lever.
3. Install the new boot assembly over the shift lever and secure to the floor with the the (4) screws provided.
NOTE: USE A SOAP SOLUTION TO ASSIST IN INSTALLING THE SHIFT BOOT OVER THE SHIFT LEVER.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE A HYDROCARBON (OIL) OR GLYCOL BASED LUBRICANT TO AID IN INSTALLING THE SHIFT BOOT. THESE MATERIALS WILL GET INTO THE SHIFT LEVER SPLINES AT THE SHIFT KNOB END OF THE LEVER AND CAUSE THE SHIFT KNOB PLASTIC CORE TO CRACK.
4. Install the shift knob on the shift lever.

PART NUMBER PART NAME CLASS

F1TZ-7277-A Boot - Transmission Assembly B

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
911712A Inspection Only (includes Road Test) 0.3 Hr.
911712B Inspect And Install Shift Lever Boot 0.7 Hr.
DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
7277 53
OASIS CODES: 505000, 505200, 597997, 702300
__________________________________________
TSB 87-24-16 T18 TRANSMISSION LIMITED PRODUCTION DURING 1988 AND 1989 MODEL YEARS

LIGHT TRUCK: 1988-89 F-150/250, BRONCO
ISSUE: The Borg-Warner T18 transmission used in prior model years is now used in limited production for selected 1988-89 light trucks. The affected units are F- 150/250 trucks under 8500 GVW with a 4.9L or 5.0L engine and Broncos with a 4.9L or 5.0L engine. The transmission will be offered in the long extension (slip yoke) model ONLY for 4 x 2 applications.
ACTION: If service is required, refer to the 1987 Light Truck Shop Manual, Volume A, Section 16-23-1.

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New Process 435 Transmission exploded view
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See also:

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BW T-18 with early shifter

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T-18 Exploded
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T-18 Shifter in early '90s F-series & Bronco.

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T18 Recommended Shift Speeds from '90 manual p.114

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Borg-Warner T-18 exploded view
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The T-19's primary difference is a synchronized 1st gear.

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BW T-18 Shifter (late)

See also:

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BW T-19C

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BW T-18/19 External Assemblies

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TOD Transmission


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TOD Transmission Exploded (errors)

Possibly also called RTS, and a variant of the Tremec T170F (RUG).

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SROD Transmission, exploded view

Possibly a variant of the Tremec T170F (RUG).

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Mazda M5OD-R2 Disassembly
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

M5OD-R2 TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS:
1 - 3.90 : 1
2 - 2.25 : 1
3 - 1.50 : 1
4 - 1.00 : 1
5 - 0.80 : 1
R - 3.39 : 1

First Gear
The first/second synchronizer is splined to the output shaft. The first/second synchronizer sleeve locks the first gear (1GR) (7100) to the output shaft through the synchronizer. The input gear drives the countershaft. First gear on the countershaft drives the first gear on the output shaft, which is driven in reduction at 3.90:1.

Second Gear
The synchronizer is splined to the output shaft. The synchronizer sleeve locks second gear to the output shaft through the synchronizer. The input gear drives the countershaft. Second gear on the countershaft drives second gear on the output shaft. The output shaft is driven in reduction at 2.25:1.

Third Gear
The third/fourth synchronizer is splined to the output shaft. The synchronizer sleeve locks third gear to the output shaft through the synchronizer. The input gear drives the countershaft. Third gear on the countershaft drives third gear on the output shaft. The output shaft is driven in reduction at 1.50:1.

Fourth Gear
The third/fourth synchronizer is splined to the output shaft. The synchronizer locks the input shaft (7017) to the output shaft. The input shaft and output shaft turn at the same speed (1:1 ratio).

Fifth Gear (Overdrive)
The fifth gear synchronizer is splined to the countershaft. The synchronizer sleeve locks fifth gear to the countershaft. The input gear drives the countershaft. Fifth gear on the countershaft drives fifth gear which is splined to the output shaft. The output shaft is overdriven at a ratio of 0.80:1.

Reverse Gear
A reverse idler gear produces rotation in the opposite direction of output shaft rotation. The fifth/reverse synchronizer is splined to the countershaft. The synchronizer sleeve locks reverse gear to the countershaft. The input gear drives the countershaft. The countershaft reverse gear drives the reverse idler gear. The reverse idler gear drives reverse gear (which is splined to the output shaft) at a reduction ratio of 3.39:1.

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description Tool Number
Mainshaft Locknut (7B364) Wrench T88T-7025-AR (55mm hex, sides are 1.20")
Remover/Replacer Tube T75L-7025-B
TOD Forcing Screw T84T-7025-B
Bearing Puller T77J-7025-H
Bearing Collet Sleeve T75L-7025-G
Collet Half T88T-7061-A

Nut 7N170 is 32mm hex

Known problems include:
leaks from shift rail plugs #60 & 61
sensitivity to fluid level & quality
weak shifter susceptible to wear

To remove the upper shifter (7210), remove the 17mm nut from the passenger side of the stud (7L197), and install it on the driver's side. Tighten it until it loosens, then push the stud out to the driver's side. Remove the upper shifter.

http://bbscomp.com/george/manual.pdf
1 ) Remove transmission (7003) from vehicle as outlined in this section. Secure to an appropriate holding fixture.
2 ) Using a 12mm wrench, remove ten retaining bolts. Remove case cover.
3 ) Remove shift control selector lever and housing and gearshift lever boot if necessary.
4 ) Using a 12mm wrench, remove 10 retaining bolts. Remove case cover.
5 ) Remove and discard extension housing seal (4x2 vehicles only).
6 ) Remove extension housing (7A039) from case.
7 ) Remove countershaft rear bearing and thrust washer.
8 ) Using Mainshaft Locknut Wrench T88T-7025-AR and Remover/Replacer Tube T75L-7025-B, remove and discard lock nut from output and fifth gear driveshaft.
9 ) Using a 17mm wrench, remove holding bolt from reverse idler gear shaft (7140). Remove reverse idler gear assembly by grasping and pulling rearward.
10 ) CAUTION: Make sure tools are properly positioned so as not to damage parts being removed.
Remove output shaft bearing (7065) from output shaft using Remover/Replacer Tube T75L-7025-B, TOD Forcing Screw T84T-7025-B and Bearing Puller T77J-7025-H.
11 ) Using a brass drift and hammer, drive reverse gear from output shaft.
12 ) Remove sleeve from output shaft.
13 ) Remove countershaft reverse gear with two reverse idler gear bearings and reverse synchronizer blocking ring (7107).
14 ) Remove thrust washer and split washer from countershaft.
15 ) Using a 12mm wrench, remove holding bolt from reverse gear shift rail (7240).
16 ) Remove the fifth/reverse synchronizer and fifth/reverse gear shifter fork (7230) as an assembly without separating the steel ball and shifter interlock spring (7234) (removed from shift fork groove) unless necessary.
17 ) Remove fifth gear synchronizer blocking ring.
18 ) NOTE: Do not remove the Torx® nut retaining the shift lever connecting pin at this time.
Remove the lockplate retaining bolt and inner circlip. Remove fifth and reverse shift lever from transmission case.
19 ) Remove fifth gear (counter) with needle bearing.
20 ) NOTE: For reference during assembly, observe that the longer of the two collars on fifth gear faces forward.
Remove fifth gear from output shaft using Bearing Collet Sleeve for 3.5-inch Bearing Collets T75L-7025-G, Remover/Replacer Tube T85T-7025-A, TOD Forcing Screw T84T-7025-B and Collet Half T88T-7061-A.
21 ) Remove fifth gear spacer or sleeve and (positioning) ball.
22 ) Remove front and rear bearing retainers. Refer to procedures in this section.
23 ) Using a 10mm socket, remove oil trough retaining bolt from case side and oil trough from upper transmission case.
24 ) Pull input shaft (7017) forward and remove bearing (7025). Pull input shaft rearward.
25 ) Pull input shaft forward and separate it from output shaft. Incline output shaft upward and lift it from case (7005).
26 ) Remove input shaft from case.
27 ) Remove countershaft through upper opening of case.
http://bbscomp.com/george/manual.pdf

. . . . . . . .

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M5OD-R2 Guts

M5OD-R2 TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS (according to this page):
1 - 3.90 : 1
2 - 2.25 : 1
3 - 1.49 : 1
4 - 1.00 : 1
5 - 0.80 : 1
R - 3.39 : 1
http://bbscomp.com/george/manual.pdf

. .

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Mazda M5OD-R2 Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

M5OD-R2 TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS (according to this page):
1 - 3.90 : 1
2 - 2.25 : 1
3 - 1.49 : 1
4 - 1.00 : 1
5 - 0.80 : 1
R - 3.39 : 1

TRANS code: M
. . . .

Known problems include:
leaks from shift rail plugs #60 & 61
sensitivity to fluid level & quality
weak shifter susceptible to wear

To remove the shifter, remove the 17mm nut from the passenger side of the stud, and install it on the driver's side. Tighten it until it loosens, then push the stud out to the driver's side. Remove the shifter.
http://bbscomp.com/george/manual.pdf

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Transmission Wiring Routing & Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 15525-A Wiring Assembly with 4R70W Automatic Transmission (5.0L Only)
2 15525-B Wiring Assembly (All Models with M5R2 or T-18 Manual Transmission)
3 15525-C Wiring Assembly (F-Series with 4.9L or 7.3L for M5HD-2F)
4 15525-D Wiring Assembly (F-Series/Bronco with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L under 8500 GVW and 7.3L) E4OD
5 15525-E Wiring Assembly (F-Series over 8500 GVW with 4.9L for C6 Auto)
6 15525-F Wiring Assembly (F-Series with 5.8L over 8500 GVW with E4OD Auto)
7 15525-G Wiring Assembly (F-Series with 5.8L and 7.5L over 8500 GVW with M5HD-ZF Manual)
8 15525-H Wiring Assembly (F-Series with 5.8L over 8500 GVW or 7.5L for C6 Auto, with HEGO Sensor)
9 15525-J Wiring Assembly (F-Series with 7.5L and E4OD Auto or 5.8L HP Lightning)
10 14405 Wiring Assembly
11 -- Locator, Install in Hole Provided (Part of 15525)
12 -- Retainer (Part of 15525)
13 14K067 Wiring Assembly (4x4) Indicator Lamp for (4x4) without ESOF
14 14A666 Cover, Standard Production for Shift on the Fly or 4x2
15 15520 Backup Lamp Switch Assembly
16 -- For 7.5L (E4OD Automatic Transmission except F-450 Super Duty) (Part of 15525)
17 -- For Continuation See View E
18 14B166 Indicator Lamp Switch, (4x4) Vehicles without Shift on the Fly19 -- Neutral Start Switch
19 9F472 Heated Oxygen Sensor Assembly (for 5.8L [0/8500 GVW] and 7.5L Engines)
20 -- Retainer (Part of Transmission)
A -- Wiring to rotate behind Transmission Oil Cooler Tube (for Items 4, 6 and 9 Only)

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Transmission Tags
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See also: adrianspeeder's Trans ID list

M5OD-R2 TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS (according to this page):
1 - 3.90 : 1
2 - 2.25 : 1
3 - 1.49 : 1
4 - 1.00 : 1
5 - 0.80 : 1
R - 3.39 : 1

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Transmission Fluid Chart (outdated)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also: the most recent list on the Ford site.


Manual transmissions with no fluid indicated use 80W gear oil.

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE DANGER OF CHANGING THE ATF

I'm no slushbox expert, but this is how I understand it:

A) Starting with a good trans & the right fluid, over time, debris is generated in the trans due to normal wear & contamination. The fluid contains detergent additives that keep this debris suspended in the fluid until it can flow back to the filter to be removed.

B) But the fluid only contains SO MUCH detergent. So if it's not changed on-schedule, the debris doesn't get suspended, and it settles out all over the trans. But this alone doesn't cause any immediate problems, which is why so many people neglect the trans fluid for so long.

C) Eventually, someone realizes how old the fluid is, and changes it with fresh detergent-rich fluid. This begins to break up the deposits, but it also loosens large chunks, which can block up the valve body's fine passages & ports, causing MAJOR damage.

D) From what I've seen, there are 2 possible ways to avoid this damage:
1) rebuild the trans
2) change the filter & fluid once, using decent aftermarket ATF. It's also a good time to add the drain plug kit. Then drive 50-200 miles to break up most of the deposits. Then change the fluid & filter again, using MotorCraft Mercon. If the trans goes out after that, it was going out anyway.

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Old Transmission Filters

See also:

.

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE DANGER OF CHANGING THE ATF

I'm no slushbox expert, but this is how I understand it:

A) Starting with a good trans & the right fluid, over time, debris is generated in the trans due to normal wear & contamination. The fluid contains detergent additives that keep this debris suspended in the fluid until it can flow back to the filter to be removed.

B) But the fluid only contains SO MUCH detergent. So if it's not changed on-schedule, the debris doesn't get suspended, and it settles out all over the trans. But this alone doesn't cause any immediate problems, which is why so many people neglect the trans fluid for so long.

C) Eventually, someone realizes how old the fluid is, and changes it with fresh detergent-rich fluid. This begins to break up the deposits, but it also loosens large chunks, which can block up the valve body's fine passages & ports, causing MAJOR damage.

D) From what I've seen, there are 2 possible ways to avoid this damage:
1) rebuild the trans
2) change the filter & fluid once, using decent aftermarket ATF. It's also a good time to add the drain plug kit. Then drive 50-200 miles to break up most of the deposits. Then change the fluid & filter again, using MotorCraft Mercon. If the trans goes out after that, it was going out anyway.

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AOD TV Cable Installation
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See also:
. . . .

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Throttle Valve (TV) Control Cable Adjustment (AOD only)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Two methods of TV system adjustment are available.
1. TV cable adjustment with engine off.
2. TV control pressure check and adjustment procedure with engine on.

The Throttle Valve (TV) Control Cable System consists of a cable attaching stud on the throttle body throttle lever, the TV Control Cable Assembly, the External TV Control Lever on the transmission, and the Cable Mounting Brackets at the throttle body and transmission. As the throttle body lever is moved from idle to wide open throttle (WOT), the TV control cable pulls the transmission TV control lever from idle to WOT. Return of the cable and transmission lever towards idle is accomplished by the return spring on the transmission end of the cable assembly. This spring and the end of the cable assembly is protected by a flexible rubber boot. The transmission external TV control lever actuates the internal TV control mechanism which regulates the TV control pressure. The travel of this lever is controlled by stops internal to the transmission.

The TV control cable is set and locked to its proper length during initial assembly by pushing in the locking tab at the throttle body end of the cable assembly. When the tab is unlocked, the cable is released for adjustment. The take-up spring at this end of the cable automatically tensions the cable when released. With the slack taken up and the locking tab pushed in, the take-up spring plays no part in the operation of the system.

Under normal circumstances, it should not be necessary to alter or readjust the initial setting of the TV control cable. Situations requiring readjustment of the TV control cable include maintenance involving the removal and/or replacement of the throttle body, transmission, or TV cable assembly.

When the TV control cable is properly set, the transmission TV control lever will be at its internal idle stop (lever to rear as far as it will travel) when the throttle body throttle lever is at its idle stop.

TV Cable Adjustment with Engine Off

Note: At accelerator pedal WOT, the transmission TV control lever will not be at its WOT stop. The wide open throttle position must not be used as a reference point for adjusting the TV control cable.


Idle Speed Effect on the TV Control Cable

The 5.0L (302 CID) EFI Engines use an air By-Pass ISC that does not affect throttle position. Therefore, idle automatic setting does not affect TV Cable adjustment.

TV Cable Adjustment Procedure, Retention Spring

1. Set parking brake and put selector in N (do not put selector in P).
2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage (F-150-250 and Bronco vehicles only).
3. Verify that the throttle lever is at the idle stop. If it isn't, check for binding or interference in the throttle system. Do not attempt to adjust idle stop.
4. Verify that the cable routing is free of sharp bends or pressure points and that the cable operates freely. Lubricate the TV lever ball stud with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent if necessary. Check for damage to cable or rubber boot.
5. Unlock the locking tab at the throttle body end by prying up with a small screwdriver to free the cable.
6. A retention spring must be installed on the TV control lever at the transmission, to hold it in the idle position (as far to rear as the lever will travel) with about ten pounds of force. If a suitable single spring is not available, two V8 TV return springs may be used. Attach retention spring(s) to the transmission TV lever and hook rear end of spring to the transmission case.
7. With the TV cable locking tab unlocked and the retention spring in place, rotate the transmission outer TV lever 10-30 degrees and return slowly.
8. Push down on the locking tab until flush.
9. Remove the retention spring(s) from the transmission TV lever.

TV Control Pressure Check and Adjustment with Engine On

NOTE: This procedure requires the use of TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent. The results of the adjustment procedure depend on the accuracy of the pressure gauge. The pressure gauge should be checked (and recalibrated if necessary) approximately four times a year or when the following occurs:
a. The needle will not return to 0 psi under no pressure.
b. The needle goes past 0 psi (negative side) under no pressure.
c. Bumping or dropping a pressure gauge.

1. Attach TV Pressure Gauge with Hose T86L-70002-A or equivalent to the TV port on the transmission. On some applications it might be easier to use the TV Pressure Fitting Service Tool No. D80L-77001-A.
2. Remove the protective cover over the cable linkage.
3. Insert the tapered end of the Cable TV Control Pressure Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A between the crimped slug on the end of the cable and the plastic cable fitting that attaches to the throttle lever. Push in gauge tool, forcing the crimped slug away from the plastic fitting. Make sure gauge tool is pushed in as far as it will go.
4. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (approximately 5-10 min. with transmission in park). The transmission fluid temperature should be approximately 100-150°F. Do not make pressure check if transmission fluid is cold or too hot to touch.
5. Set parking brake and place shift selector in N (neutral). With gauge block in place and engine idling in neutral, the TV pressure should be 33 ± 5 psi. For best transmission function, set the TV pressure as close as possible to the mean (average) pressure using the following procedure.

NOTE: Do not check or set TV pressure in P (park).

6. Unlock the TV Cable Locking Tab at the throttle body bracket. The adjuster preload spring should cause the adjusting slider to move away from the throttle body and the TV pressure should increase.
7. Push on the slider from behind the bracket until the TV pressure is 33 psi. While still holding the slider, push down on locking tab as far as it will go, locking slider in position.

NOTE: An increase of 1-2 psi is possible when transmission is shifted from NEUTRAL to a forward gear. This is considered normal and no compensation should be made.

8. Remove gauge tool, allowing cable to return to its normal idle position. With the engine still idling in neutral, TV pressure must be at or near zero (less than 5 psi). If not, reinstall gauge tool. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 but set the TV pressure to a pressure lower than previously set but not less than 26 psi. Remove gauge tool and recheck TV pressure to determine if it is at or near zero.

For deteriorated throttle lever grommets, read this caption:



See also:
. . .

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E4OD Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Converter Assembly 7902
2 Plug Converter Drain 1/8â??x27NPT 87650-S2
3 Shaft Input 7017
4 Seal Front Pump Support 7L323
5 Seal Front Pump E9TP-7A248-AA superceded by E9TZ-7A248-B
6 Bushing Front Pump 7B258
7 Seal Front Pump (O-Ring) 7A248
8 Bolt and Washer Assembly (Front Pump to Case) N805260-S
9 Washer Replacement (9 Req'd) 7G379
10 Pump Assembly Front 7A103
11 Washer Pump Thrust No. 1 7D014
12 Bearing Assembly Overdrive Sun Gear No. 2 7E486
13 Gasket Pump 7A136
14 Seal Coast Clutch (2 Req'd) 7G402
15 Cylinder Assembly Coast 7G387
16 Seal Coast Clutch Inner 7A548
17 Seal Coast Clutch Outer 7A548
18 Piston Coast Clutch 7A262
19 Ring Coast Clutch Piston Apply 7N519
20 Spring Coast Clutch Piston Disc 7B070
21 Ring Coast Clutch Disc Spring Retainer 7A527
22 Plate Coast Clutch Internal Spline Friction 7B164
23 Plate Coast Clutch External Spline Steel 7B442
24 Plate Coast Clutch Pressure 7B066
25 Ring Coast Clutch Pressure Plate Retaining (Selective Fit) 7D483
26 Gear Assembly Overdrive Sun 7D063
27 Ring Retaining 377155-S (Attaches Clutch Assembly Overdrive One-Way to Overdrive Ring Gear)
28 Ring Retaining 377300-S (Attaches Gear Assembly Overdrive Sun to Cylinder Assembly Coast)
29 Ring Retaining 377135-S (OWC to Outer Race)
30 Clutch Assembly Overdrive One-Way 7A089
31 Washer Overdrive Overrun Clutch Thrust No. 3 7L339
32 Planet Assembly Overdrive 7B446
33 Bearing Assembly Overdrive Planet Thrust No. 4 7F240
34 Gear Overdrive Ring 7A153
35 Shaft Overdrive Center 7A658
36 Ring Overdrive CL Pressure Plate Retainer (Selective Fit) 7D483
37 Ring Retaining 7G375 (Retaining Center Overdrive Shaft Assembly to Overdrive Ring Gear)
38 Bearing Assembly Overdrive Center Shaft Thrust No. 5 7G178
39 Plate Overdrive Clutch Pressure 7B066
40 Plate Overdrive Clutch Internal Spline Friction 7B164
41 Plate Overdrive Clutch External Spline Steel 7B442
42 Ring Overdrive Clutch Disc Spring Retaining 7A527
43 Spring Overdrive Clutch Piston Disc 7B070
44 Piston Overdrive Clutch 7A262
45 Seal Overdrive Clutch Piston Outer 7A548
46 Seal Overdrive Clutch Piston Inner 7F225
47 Ring Intermediate Cylinder Retaining 7D483
48 Bolt M10-1.5 x 24mm Overdrive Cylinder Fluid Feed 7Z059
49 Cylinder Overdrive and Intermediate Clutch 7G384
50 Seal Intermediate Clutch Piston Inner 7F225
51 Piston Intermediate Clutch 7E005
52 Seal Intermediate Clutch Piston Outer 7F224
53 Spring Intermediate Clutch Piston Disc 7B070
54 Bolt M12-1.75 x 31mm Center Support Fluid Feed (2 Req'd) 7Z059
55 Support Assembly Center 7A130
56 Washer Center Support Thrust No. 6 7L326
57 Seal Direct Clutch Cast Iron (2 Req'd) 7D025
58 Plate Intermediate Clutch Pressure Apply 7B066
59 Plate Intermediate Clutch Internal Spline Friction 7B164
60 Plate Intermediate Clutch External Spline Steel 7B442
61 Plate Intermediate Clutch Pressure Rear 7B066
62 Piston Assembly Intermediate Band Servo 7D021
66 Band Assembly Intermediate 7D034
67 Clutch Assembly Intermediate One-Way 7A089 (*)
68 Washer Intermediate One-Way Clutch Thrust No. 7 7G401
69 Drum Assembly Intermediate Brake 7D044
70 Seal Direct Clutch Piston Inner 7A548
71 Seal Direct Clutch Piston Outer 7A548
72 Piston Assembly Direct Clutch 7A262
73 Retainer and Spring Assembly Direct Clutch 7A262
74 Ring Direct Clutch Support Spring Retaining 7C122
75 Washer Intermediate Brake Drum Thrust No. 8A 7C096
76 Plate Direct Clutch Internal Spline Friction 7B164
77 Plate Direct Clutch External Spline Steel 7B442
78 Plate Direct Clutch Pressure 7B066
79 Retaining Ring Direct Clutch Pressure Plate (Selective Fit) 377126-S, 377127-S, 377128-S, 377437-S
80 Seal Forward Clutch Cylinder (2 Req'd) 7D019
81 Bearing Assembly Forward Clutch Needle Thrust No. 8B 7F374
82 Cylinder Assembly Forward Clutch 7A360
83 Seal Forward Clutch Piston Inner 7A548
84 Seal Forward Clutch Piston Outer 7A548
85 Piston Assembly Forward Clutch 7A262
86 Ring Forward Clutch Piston Spring 7D256
87 Spring Forward Clutch Piston Disc 7B070
88 Ring Forward Clutch Spring 377127-S (FWD CL Piston Spring to FWD CL Cylinder Assembly)
89 Plate Forward Clutch Pressure 7B066
90 Spring Forward Clutch Pressure 7E085
91 Plate Forward Clutch Internal Spline Friction 7B164
92 Plate Forward Clutch External Spline Steel 7B442
93 Plate Forward Clutch Pressure Rear 7B066
94 Retaining Ring Direct Clutch Pressure Plate (Selective Fit) 377127-S, 377437-S, 377444-S, 386841-S, 386842-S
95 Washer Forward Clutch Hub Thrust 7D090
96 Ring Forward Hub Retaining 377132-S (FWD Ring Gear Hub to FWD Ring Gear) No. 8C
97 Hub Forward Ring Gear 7B067
98 Gear Forward Ring 7D392
99 Bearing Assembly Forward Clutch Thrust No. 9A 7D234 (Between FWD Ring Gear and FWD Planet Assembly)
100 Washer Forward Planet Carrier Thrust No. 10A 7A166
101 Planet Assembly Forward 7A398
102 Bearing Assembly Forward Clutch Thrust No. 9B 7D234 (Between FWD Planet Assembly and FWD Sun Gear Assembly)
103 Gear Assembly Forward/Reverse Sun 7D063
104 Shell Input 7D064
105 Washer Input Shell Thrust No. 14 7D066
106 Ring Retaining 377300-S (Attaches FWD/REV Sun Gear Assembly to Input Shell)
107 Ring Reverse Clutch Pressure Plate Retaining 7D483
108 Plate Reverse Clutch Pressure 7B066
109 Plate Reverse Clutch External Spline Steel 7B442
110 Plate Reverse Clutch Internal Spline Friction 7B164
111 Spring Transmission Reverse Clutch Cushion 7E085
112 Ring Reverse Planet Retaining 377155-S
113 Washer Planet Carrier Thrust No. 10B 7A166 (Between Reverse Planet Assembly and Input Shell)
114 Planet Assembly Reverse 7D006
115 Washer Planet Carrier Thrust No. 11 7A166 (Between Reverse Planet Assembly and Output Shaft Hub)
116 Ring Retaining 387031-S (Retaining Output Shaft Hub to Output Shaft Assembly)
117 Gear Output Shaft Ring 7A153
118 Hub Output Shaft 7D164 (*)
119 Ring Retaining 377132-S (Retaining Output Shaft Hub to Output Shaft Ring Gear)
120 Hub Assembly Reverse Clutch 7B067
121 Clutch Assembly Reverse One-Way 7A089
122 Bearing Assembly Output Shaft Hub Thrust No. 12 7G178
123 Retainer and Spring Assembly Reverse Clutch 7D406
124 Seal Reverse Clutch Piston Inner 7D404
125 Seal Reverse Clutch Piston Outer 7D403
126 Piston Reverse Clutch 7D402
127 Bushing Case Front 7025 (3 Lube Grooves)
128 Case Assembly 7005
129 Vent Assembly Case 7034
130 Connector Assembly Fluid Tube Inlet (Front) 7D273
131 Bolt N605770-S36 (Attaches Heat Shield to Case)
132 Heat Shield 7A434
133 Valve Assembly Converter Drain Back Check (Rear) 7D174
134 Bushing Case Rear 7025 (1 Lube Groove)
135 Bolt (5 Req'd) 5/16 x 1.9 7D167 (One-Way Clutch to Case)
136 Washer Output Shaft Thrust Rear No. 13 7B368
137 Gear Output Shaft Parking 7A233
138 Output Shaft Assembly (4x2) 7060
139 Gasket Extension Housing 7086
140 Extension Assembly (4x2 except Super Duty) 7A039
141 Bolt Extension Assembly to Case (Top) (7 Req'd) N605803-S36
142 Bracket Wiring 7H102 (**)
143 Bolt Extension Assembly to Case (4x2 Bottom) (2 Req'd) N605802-S36
144 Bushing Extension Housing (4x2) 7A034
145 Seal Extension Housing (4x2) 7052
146 Plug Assembly Extension Housing 7H183
147 Screw and Washer Assembly 1/4-20 x .62 (Plug Assembly to Extension Assembly) 57621-S2
148 Output Shaft Assembly (4x4) 7060
149 Extension Assembly (4x4 and Super Duty) 7A039
150 Bolt Extension Assembly to Case (4x4 and Super Duty Bottom) (2 Req'd) N606569-S36
151 Indicator Assembly Fluid Level 7A020
152 Tube Assembly Fluid Filler 7A228
153 O-Ring Filler Tube 391308-S
154 Tube Fluid Inlet Short 7A160
155 Screw and Washer Assembly M8-1.25 x 23.8 (2 Req'd) N805232-S (Attaches 7D419 to 7005)
156 Plate Parking Rod Guide 7D419
157 Spring Parking Pawl Return 7D070
158 Pawl Parking 7A441
159 Shaft Park Pawl 7D071
160 Bolt M8-1.25 x 25.9mm N805261-S191 (Attaches Park Pawl Act Abutment to Case)
161 Abutment Parking Pawl Actuating 7G101
162 Nut 3/8 Spring 372552-S2 (Attaches Service ID Tag to Case)
163 Tag Transmission Service ID 7B148 (**)
164 Nut M10-1.5 Hex N620482-S2 (Attaches Manual Lever Assembly to Case)
165 Lever Assembly Manual Control 7A256
166 Bolt Assembly Transmission Range Sensor to Case (2 Req'd) N805312-S100
167 Manual Lever Position Sensor (Transmission Range Sensor) 7A247
168 Shaft Manual Control Lever 7C493
169 Seal Manual Control Lever 7B498
170 Pin Manual Lever Retaining 7B210
171 Rod Assembly Parking Pawl Actuating 7A232
172 Lever Manual Control Valve Detent Inner 7A115
173 M14-1.5 Hex Inner Detent Lever N800287-S36 (7A115 to 7C493)
174 Bolt Manual Valve Detent Spring Assembly to Case N805503-S
175 Spring Assembly Manual Valve Detent 7E332
176 Plug Test Port 1/8-27 Hex Head (2 Req'd) 390685-S (**)
177 Stud Valve Body Assembly to Case Solenoid Valve Body to Case Accumulator Body Assembly to Case N805330-S
178 Plug Converter Access 7N171
179 Ball Rubber Check (8 Req'd) 7E195
180 Stud Main Control Assembly to Case N805331-S
181 Spring EPC Blow-Off 7D017
182 Ball EPC Blow-Off 353351-S
183 Gasket Valve Body Separator Plate 7C155
184 Plate Valve Body Separator 7A008
185 Gasket Valve Body Separator Plate to Case 7D100
186 Screen Assembly Solenoid 7G308
187 Valve Body Assembly 7A100
188 Plate Valve Body Reinforcing 7F282 (**)
189 Bolt Valve Body Reinforcing Plate to Case (3 Req'd) N805503-S
190 Solenoid Valve Body Transmission Control 7G391
191 Bolt Solenoid Valve Body to Case (9 Req'd) N805329-S
192 Bolt Valve Body Assembly to Case and Accumulator Body Assembly to Case (18 Req') N805326-S
193 Bolt Valve Body Assembly to Case N805327-S
194 Nut Valve Body Assembly to Case Solenoid Valve Body to Case Accumulator Body Assembly to Case N805328-S
195 Control Assembly Accumulator Body 7G422
196 Gasket Transmission Pan 7A191
197 Screen Assembly Transmission Pan (4x2) 7A098 (*)
198 Pan Assembly Transmission (4x2) 7A194
199 Magnet Transmission Pan 7L027 (**)
200 Bolt Pan Assembly to Case N605902-S36; Using a 10mm socket, tighten bolts to 14-16 N-m (10-12 ft-lb).
201 Screen Assembly Transmission Pan (4x4) 7A098 (*)
202 Pan Assembly Transmission (4x4) 7A194


__________________________________________
TSB 89-09-18 Introduction to the E4OD
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/

LIGHT TRUCK:
1989 E-250, E-350, F SUPER DUTY, F-250, F-350

ISSUE: The E4OD is a new 4-speed automatic overdrive transmission. The E4OD transmission was derived from the C-6 automatic (3-speed) transmission.

ACTION: Use the following information to familiarize yourself with the various E4OD components. This information can help you explain the operation of the transmission to the customer.

The E4OD uses electronic controls to control shift points, pressure regulation and torque converter clutch control. This provides high quality shifts, good fuel economy and overall performance. The engine and transmission are monitored with diagnostic testing available through the EEC-IV Quick Test. The E4OD operations are provided by both operator selected positions of the manual selector lever and with an overdrive cancel switch located on the instrument panel.

FUNCTIONS

P (Park), R (Reverse), and N (Neutral) are the same as other Ford automatic transmissions.

D (Overdrive - normal driving position) provides all automatic shifts through fourth gear (overdrive) along with application and release of the converter clutch. The transmission may also be shifted manually between all forward ranges.

D (Overdrive - with overdrive cancel switch activated, amber light on. This position is selected by pushing the button on the instrument panel, or shift stalk on later models.) provides all automatic shifts, including the application and release of the converter clutch, except the shift into overdrive. It is used to provide additional engine braking for descending grades.

2 (Manual second) provides only second gear operation regardless of vehicle speed. It is useful for start-up on slippery surfaces or to provide engine braking on downgrades.

1 (Manual low) provides only low (1st) gear at start-ups. At higher speeds it results in a downshift to second gear followed by an automatic downshift to low which occurs when vehicle speed decreases enough. Once in low, the transmission will stay in low until the selector is moved to another position.

ELECTRONIC CONTROL
The E4OD is electronically controlled by a microprocessor known as the EEC-IV processor (electronic control assembly, ECA). The EEC-IV processor controls both the engine and the transmission on gasoline engine applications in the same microprocessor. On diesels the ECA controls the transmission only. Electronic control also provides powertrain system diagnostic capabilities which will result in earlier and more accurate resolution of E4OD malfunctions. Service technicians can detect many types of transmission concerns if they occur during the standard EEC-IV "Quick Test" on both gas and diesel use. Additionally, the overdrive cancel switch indicator light will flash during certain conditions which will inform the driver to go to a Ford dealer for servicing.

The processor gathers information from sensors located throughout the vehicle which are monitoring vehicle operating conditions. Using this information, the processor determines the best operating state for the transmission. A solenoid body assembly, containing five solenoids, receives the processor signals which in turn produces the desired mode of operation.

Altitude compensation for shift quality and cold ambient warm-up strategy are also provided in the electronic controls. This eliminates the need for changes to the transmission for operating in mountainous regions. It also allows the E4OD to operate effectively even in extreme cold.

An overdrive cancel switch allows lockout of overdrive with the push of a button. The switch is located on the instrument panel and is useful for providing increased engine braking on downhill grades. Depressing the switch will lock out overdrive (amber light turns on). Pressing it again, will change the system back to normal operation. Whenever the ignition key is turned on, the vehicle will automatically provide overdrive operation regardless of the switch position the last time the vehicle was running.

FUNCTIONAL COMPONENTS
Components from the intermediate brake drum rearward to the output shaft and extension housing seal are similar to the C-6 automatic transmission. However, the E4OD planetary gears have a higher contact ratio for quieter operation. Forward of the intermediate brake drum, the E4OD components are new. These new parts are:
> Center support assembly
> Overdrive ring gear
> Coast clutch
> Overdrive sun gear and planet gear assembly
> Pump and support assembly
> Converter and clutch/damper assembly

The E4OD has wider forward gear ratios than the C-6 as shown below.

Gear - C6 - E4OD
1st - 2.46 - 2.71
2nd - 1.46 - 1.538
3rd - 1.00 - 1.00
OD - NA - 0.712
Rev - 2.18 - 2.18

Currently there are 12 E4OD models for use in F-250/350 (4x2 and 4x4), Econoline (5.8L/7.3L Diesel/7.5L) and F Super Duty (7.3L Diesel/7.5L). For details in diagnosing, testing, disassembling and assembling, see Section 17-09 of the 1989 Truck Shop Manual. Also see the E4OD Theory and Diagnosis Technical Training Manual (Order No. 1710-012). The E4OD, like the C-6, is filled with Mercon fluid. The fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles for severe service use. See this PDF for proper fluid application.
__________________________________________
To convert a 4R100 from a '99-02.5 SuperDuty 7.3L to work as an E4OD in a '94.5-97 7.3L truck, the torque converter and the solenoid body must be changed to E4OD parts. Then the pump must be removed to drill a hole in the body from 0.250" to 0.030".

. . .
http://e4od.com/logo_page.htm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE DANGER OF CHANGING THE ATF

I'm no slushbox expert, but this is how I understand it:

A) Starting with a good trans & the right fluid, over time, debris is generated in the trans due to normal wear & contamination. The fluid contains detergent additives that keep this debris suspended in the fluid until it can flow back to the filter to be removed.

B) But the fluid only contains SO MUCH detergent. So if it's not changed on-schedule, the debris doesn't get suspended, and it settles out all over the trans. But this alone doesn't cause any immediate problems, which is why so many people neglect the trans fluid for so long.

C) Eventually, someone realizes how old the fluid is, and changes it with fresh detergent-rich fluid. This begins to break up the deposits, but it also loosens large chunks, which can block up the valve body's fine passages & ports, causing MAJOR damage.

D) From what I've seen, there are 3 possible ways to avoid this damage:
1) change the fluid on the recommended schedule
2) rebuild the trans
3) change the filter & fluid once, using decent aftermarket ATF. It's also a good time to add the drain plug kit. Then drive 50-200 miles to break up most of the deposits. Then change the fluid & filter again, using MotorCraft Mercon. If the trans goes out after that, it was going out anyway.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
E4OD TSBs:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/

98-16-08 TRANSMISSION - E4OD/4R100 - 1989-99 - MAIN CONTROLS, SEPARATOR PLATES AND SEPARATOR PLATE GASKETS USAGE CHART

98-16-07 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NO 2-3 UPSHIFT

98-13-21 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - SERVICE CASE REPLACEMENT SERVICE TIPS FOR 7.3L DIESEL VEHICLE APPLICATIONS

98-04-19 LAMP - FLASHING TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 STORED IN MEMORY
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - FLASHING TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 STORED IN MEMORY

97-19-20 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - MAIN REGULATOR BOOSTER VALVE AND SLEEVE SERVICE KIT - SERVICE TIP

97-12-13 TRANSMISSION - C6, E4OD, AOD, 4R70W - LOW TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL AND/OR SHIFT AND/OR ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS - 4X4 AND AWD VEHICLES ONLY

96-07-28 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - REVERSE CLUTCH PISTON AND PISTON SEAL USAGE - SERVICE TIP

95-25-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DIRECT CLUTCH PLATE USAGE CHART - SERVICE TIP

95-23-14 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NEW DESIGN INTERMEDIATE BAND APPLY SERVO ASSEMBLY

95-16-19 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - INTERMEDIATE BRAKE DRUM ASSEMBLY USAGE - SERVICE TIP

95-13-07 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - HARSH AND/OR DOUBLE BUMP ON REVERSE ENGAGEMENT - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE ONLY

95-11-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DELAYED FORWARD ENGAGEMENT AND/OR HEAT STAINED FORWARD CLUTCH PLATES AFTER INSTALLING CENTER SUPPORT SERVICE KIT F4TZ-7A130-B

95-11-12 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - REVISED REAR CASE BUSHING

95-06-19 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NEW DESIGN TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (TR) AND CONNECTOR INCLUDED WITH ALL E4OD REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSIONS

95-06-18 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - OVERDRIVE ONE-WAY CLUTCH - SERVICE TIPS

95-02-12 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES - WATER INTRUSION OF THE MLP/TR SENSOR
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - POSSIBLE WATER INTRUSION INTO THE MLP/TR SENSOR CAUSING SHIFT CONCERNS AND/OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - SHIFT CONCERNS AND/OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS DUE TO WATER INTRUSION OF THE MLP/TR SENSOR

94-24-15 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADE - BALL BEARING CENTER SUPPORT SERVICE KIT

94-23-18 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - EXCESSIVE BUSHING WEAR - LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH MALFUNCTION
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - FORWARD CLUTCH WEAR
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - OVERHEATING - CONVERTER COVER DISCOLORATION, CLUTCHES BURNED, BURNT FLUID
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADED COMPONENTS TO BE INSTALLED DURING TEARDOWN

94-21-14 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - VEHICLE DOES NOT MOVE - DIAGNOSIS AND SERVICE TIPS

94-21-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADED OVERDRIVE PLANET ASSEMBLY AND INPUT SHAFT WHEN REPLACEMENT OF EITHER BECOMES NECESSARY

94-11-08 E4OD TRANSMISSION/ATX TRANSAXLE - EXCHANGE REQUIRED WHEN REPAIR COST EXCEEDS $1,300 FOR E4OD OR $1,100 FOR ATX
TRANSMISSION - E4OD/ATX - EXCHANGE PROGRAM INCREASES AVAILABILITY OF REMANUFACTURED UNITS - E & F SERIES LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH E4OD TRANSMISSIONS, TAURUS WITH 2.5L ENGINES, TEMPO/TOPAZ WITH 2.3L HSC/HSO ENGINES

94-09-13 HEATER - "GURGLING" NOISE FROM CORE AT COLD START - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
NOISE - "GURGLING" SOUND FROM HEATER CORE AT COLD START - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

94-08-20 TRANSMISSION - E4OD AND C-6 - INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR "NEW UNITIZED PLASTIC CAGE" LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH - 1989-94 MODELS WITH E4OD AND ALL MODEL YEARS WITH C-6
TRANSMISSION - E4OD AND C-6 - NO FORWARD ENGAGEMENT - SERVICE TIPS FOR INSTALLING "NEW UNITIZED PLASTIC CAGE" LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH - 1989-94 MODELS WITH E4OD AND ALL MODEL YEARS WITH C-6

94-02-25 TRANSMISSIONS - C-6, E4OD, AOD - DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT - CABLE BINDS DUE TO ENVIRONMENTAL EXPOSURE

93-19-11 SHEET METAL - CAB BACK PANEL "BOOM" NOISE - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE AND E4OD OR C6 TRANSMISSION
NOISE - "BOOM" FROM CAB BACK PANEL - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE AND E4OD OR C6 TRANSMISSION

93-12-16 NOISE - "CLUNK" - WHEN MOVING THE E4OD TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER TO ENGAGE TRANSMISSION RANGES
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - "CLUNK" NOISE WHEN MOVING THE TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER TO ENGAGE TRANSMISSION RANGES

93-08-14 LAMP - "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" - ON AND CODE 41 (HEGO INDICATING RICH/LEAN) IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - 7.5L WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

93-07-07 SURGE - 5.0L - ON ACCELERATION OR STEADY SPEED BELOW 35 MPH (56 KMH) - CALIFORNIA CALIBRATIONS WITH E4OD

92-22-05 BRAKES - REAR ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM ELECTRONICS INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - LOSS OF INSTRUMENTATION GAUGES - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
LAMP - TRANSMISSION CONTROL LIGHT CYCLES ON/OFF OR CONTROL SWITCH INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
WIRING - E4OD TRANSMISSION CONTROL SWITCH - SHORTS IN STEERING COLUMN AND BLOWS #17 FUSE
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - CONTROL SWITCH WIRING SHORTS IN STEERING COLUMN AND BLOWS #17 FUSE
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - EARLY SHIFTS, LOSS OF POWER, POOR ACCELERATION AND 3-4 SHIFT CYCLING

92-18-12 LAMP - "MALFUNCTIONING INDICATOR LAMP" - ON AND CODE 173 (HEGO INDICATING RICH) IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - 5.8L WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

92-15-13 LAMP - "CHECK ENGINE" MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) LIT - SERVICE CODE 173 IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - VEHICLES WITH 5.0L AND E4OD

92-09-13 MISS - 4.9L - RANDOM MISFIRE - VEHICLES WITH AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION
STALL - 4.9L - DURING TRANSMISSION GEAR ENGAGEMENT - E4OD ONLY
LATE GEAR SHIFTS AND ENGINE MISS

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E4OD Controls & Solenoids (4R70W similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 12A650
.
Description: On vehicles equipped with gasoline engines, the operation of the E4OD automatic transmission is controlled by the EEC-IV powertrain control module. Many input sensors provide information to the powertrain control module, which then controls the actuators that affect transmission operation.
On vehicles equipped with diesel engines, the operation of the E4OD automatic transmission is also controlled by the powertrain control module. However, some of the input sensors are different.

Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch 2884:

Description: The air conditioning clutch is an electromagnetic clutch that is energized when the clutch cycling A/C pressure cut-off switch closes. The A/C pressure cut-off switch is located on the suction accumulator-drier. The closing of the A/C pressure cut-off switch completes the circuit to the clutch and draws it into engagement with the compressor driveshaft. Used as an input to determine electronic pressure control when the air conditioning clutch is engaged to compensate for the additional load on the engine.
Symptoms: Failed on - electronic pressure control slightly low with A/C off. Failed off - electronic pressure control slightly high with A/C on.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 539, P1460, P1463, P1464.

Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch 13480:
Description: The brake on/off switch tells the powertrain control module when the brakes are applied. The switch is closed when the brakes are applied and open when they are released. The PCM uses this signal to disengage torque converter clutch when brake is applied.
Symptoms: Failed on or not connected - Torque converter clutch will not engage at less than 1/3 throttle. Failed off (or all LED bulbs) - Torque converter clutch will not disengage when brake is applied.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 536, P1703.

Distributor Ignition (DI) System:
.
Description: On gasoline engines, the profile ignition pickup sensor sends a signal to the powertrain control module indicating the engine rpm and the crankshaft position.
Symptoms: Engine will stall or miss.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 211, P0340, P0341, P0344.

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor 7.3L DI Diesel Only:
Description: On the 7.3L DI diesel engines, the CMP sensor provides engine rpm information to the PCM. This rpm input is used to determine shift scheduling and EPC pressure.
Symptoms: No start.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P0340, P0341, P0344

4x4 Low (4x4L) Switch:

Description: The low range switch is located on the transfer case cover. It provides an indication of when the 4x4 transfer case gear system is in the LOW range. Modifies shift schedule for 4x4L transfer case gear ratio.
Symptoms: Failed on - Early shift schedule in 4x2 and 4x4H. Failed off - Shifts delayed in 4x4L. If the 4x4 low indicator light fuse is blown, the transmission will shift according to 4x4 low shift schedule regardless of transfer case position.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 633, 691, P1729, P1781.

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 12B579:

Description: The mass air flow sensor directly measures the mass of air flowing into the engine. The sensor output is a D.C. (analog) signal ranging from 0.5 volt to 5 volts used by the processor to calculate injector pulse width. Used as an input to determine electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: High electronic pressure, firm shifts and engagements.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 157, 158, 159, 184, 185, P0102, P0103, P1100, P1101.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Gasoline Engines:
Description: On gasoline engines, the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor senses atmospheric pressure to produce an electrical signal. The frequency of this signal varies with intake manifold pressure. The powertrain control module monitors this signal to determine altitude. The PCM then adjusts the E4OD shift schedule and EPC pressure for altitude.
On diesel engines, the MAP sensor measures boost pressure. The PCM monitors this signal and adjusts EPC pressure.
Symptoms: Firm shift feel, late shifts at altitude.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 126-129, P0235-P0237.

Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor 7.3L DI Diesel Only:
Description: The barometric pressure sensor operates similarly to the manifold absolute pressure sensor. It measures barometric pressure instead of intake manifold pressure. The powertrain control module uses the signal from the barometric pressure sensor to determine the altitude at which the vehicle is operating. The powertrain control module then adjusts the E4OD shift schedule and EPC pressure for the altitude.
Symptoms: Firm shift feel, late shifts at altitude.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: P0107, P0108.

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM):

Description: The programmable speedometer/odometer module receives input from the rear brake anti-lock sensor (ABS), which is mounted on the rear axle differential housing. The PSOM processes this input signal information and relays it as a vehicle speed signal (VSS) to the powertrain control module and the speed (cruise) control module. This signal tells the powertrain control module the vehicle speed in miles per hour (mph). Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, unexpected downshifts may occur at closed throttle, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or engages only at wide-open throttle (WOT). May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503.

Transmission Control Switch (TCS) and Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL):
Description: The transmission control switch (TCS) is a momentary contact switch. When the switch is pressed, a signal is sent to the powertrain control module. The powertrain control module then energizes the transmission control indicator lamp and the coast clutch solenoid, applying the coast clutch to provide engine braking and cancels fourth gear operation. The TCIL indicates overdrive cancel mode activated (lamp on), electronic pressure control circuit shorted or monitored sensor failure (lamp flashing).
Sensor: Transmission Control Switch.
Symptoms: No overdrive cancel when switch is cycled.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 632, P1780, tested during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) On-Board Diagnostic only.
Actuator: Transmission Control Indicator Lamp.
Symptoms: Failed on overdrive cancel mode always indicated, no flashing for electronic pressure control circuit shorted. Failed off overdrive cancel mode never indicated, no flashing for electronic pressure control circuit shorted, also may be due to a bad fuse. Erratic operation (flashing) may be due to a wiring concern.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 631, P1779.

Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 9B989:

Description: The throttle position sensor is a potentiometer that is mounted on the throttle body on gas applications and on the fuel injection pump lever on diesel applications. The throttle position sensor detects the position of the throttle plate or lever and sends this information as a voltage signal to the powertrain control module.
If a malfunction occurs in the throttle position sensor circuit, the powertrain control module will recognize that the throttle position sensor signal is out of specification. The powertrain control module will then operate the E4OD transmission at a higher line pressure to prevent transmission damage. This high line pressure causes harsh upshift and engagements. Used as an input to determine shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, abnormal or no torque converter clutch operation. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 167, P0121, P0122, P0123, P1120, P1121, P1124, P1125.

Accelerator Pedal (AP) Sensor 7.3L DI Diesel Only:

Description: The accelerator pedal (AP) sensor is mounted on the accelerator pedal on 7.3L DI diesel engines. The AP sensor detects the position of the accelerator pedal and sends this information as a voltage signal to the PCM.
If a malfunction occurs in the AP sensor circuit, the powertrain control module will recognize that the AP sensor signal is out of specification. The powertrain control module will then operate the E4OD transmission at a higher line pressure to prevent transmission damage. This high line pressure causes harsh upshift and engagements. Used as an input to determine shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, abnormal or no torque converter clutch operation. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 122, 123, P0122, P0123

Antilock Brake Sensor (ABS) 9E731:
. .
Description: The antilock brake sensor is a variable reluctance sensor that sends an AC/frequency signal to the programmable speedometer/odometer module (PSOM) which uses the signal to calculate vehicle speed in mph and output a vehicle speed signal (VSS) used by other systems. Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule; unexpected downshifts may occur at closed throttle, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or torque converter clutch engages only at wide-open throttle. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503.

Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor:
Description: The transmission fluid temperature sensor is located on the solenoid body assembly in the transmission sump. It is a temperature-sensitive device called a thermistor. The resistance value of the transmission fluid temperature sensor will vary with temperature change. The powertrain control module monitors voltage across the transmission fluid temperature sensor to determine the temperature of the transmission fluid. The powertrain control module uses this signal to determine whether a cold start shift schedule is necessary. The cold start shift schedule lowers shift speeds to allow for the reduced performance of cold engine operation. The powertrain control module also uses the transmission fluid temperature sensor input to adjust electronic pressure control pressure for temperature effects and inhibit torque converter clutch operation during the warm-up period.
Symptoms: Torque converter clutch and stabilized shift schedule happens too soon after a cold start. Codes P1783 or 657 indicate transmission fluid temperature exceeds 132°C (270° F), results in increased EPC pressure and torque converter clutch engagement. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 636, 637, 638, 657, P0712, P0713, P1711, P1783.

Transmission Range (TR)/Manual Lever Position (MLP) Sensor 7A247:
.
Description: The powertrain control module sends voltage to the Transmission Range (TR) sensor (aka MLPS). The TR sensor incorporates a series of step-down resistors which act as a voltage divider. The powertrain control module monitors this voltage which corresponds to the position of the gearshift selector lever (P, R, N, (D), 2 or 1). The powertrain control module uses this information to determine the desired gear and electronic pressure control pressure. The TR sensor is located on the outside of the transmission at the gearshift selector lever.
Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 634, 654, 667, 668, P0705, P0707, P0708, P1705.

Transmission Solenoid Body:
Description: The powertrain control module controls the E4OD transmission operation through four on/off solenoids and one Variable Force Solenoid. These solenoids and transmission fluid temperature sensor are housed in the transmission solenoid body assembly. All are part of the transmission solenoid body and are not serviced individually. Additionally, in 1995, the protection diodes that were on the solenoid body have been moved to the PCM. Refer to the following information for the functions of these solenoids.

The four on/off solenoids operate in the following manner:
When the solenoid is off, the fluid pressure feed is blocked by a check ball. The check ball is held in place by the solenoid piston.
When the solenoid is turned on by the PCM, the piston is pulled up, releasing the check ball and allowing fluid pressure to be applied to the check valves and/or other components controlled by the solenoid.

Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid:
Description: The Electronic Pressure Control solenoid is a variable force solenoid. The variable-force type solenoid is an electro-hydraulic actuator combining a solenoid and a regulating valve. It supplies electronic pressure control which regulates transmission line pressure and line modulator pressure. This is done by producing resisting forces to the main regulator and the line modulator circuits. These two pressures control clutch application pressures.
Symptoms: Failed on minimum electronic pressure control pressure (minimum transmission torque capacity). Limit engine torque (partial fuel shut-off, heavy misfire). Flashing transmission control indicator lamp.
Failed off maximum electronic pressure control pressure, harsh engagements and shifts. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 624,* 625,* P1746,* P1747.*
CAUTION: The electronic pressure control pressure output from the variable force solenoid is NOT adjustable. Any modification to the electronic pressure control solenoid will affect the transmission warranty. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition.)

Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid:
Torque converter clutch solenoid provides torque converter clutch control by shifting the converter clutch control valve to apply or release the torque converter clutch. Early on-off solenoids have ~20 Ohms resistance; later (~'98-up) PWM solenoids have ~2 Ohms.
Symptoms: Failed on engine stalls in drive at idle low speeds with brake applied or manual 2. Failed off converter clutch never engages. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 629,* P0741,** P0743,** P1743, P1742, P1744. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)

Coast Clutch Solenoid (CCS) 7M107:
The Coast Clutch Solenoid provides coast clutch control by shifting the coast clutch shift valve. The solenoid is activated by pressing the transmission control switch or by selecting the 1 or 2 range with the transmission gearshift selector lever. In manual 1 and 2, the coast clutch is controlled by the solenoid and also hydraulically as a fail-safe to ensure engine braking. In reverse, the coast clutch is controlled hydraulically and the solenoid is not on. NOTE: On certain applications, the coast clutch is controlled by the PCM in the overdrive position (TCS OFF) in gears 1, 2, and 3.
Symptoms: Failed on Third gear engine braking with (D) range selected. Failed off No third gear engine braking in overdrive cancel.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 626,* 628,** 643,* 652,* P0741,** P0743,* P1754.*
(*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)

Shift Solenoids 1 and 2:
Shift solenoids 1 and 2 provide gear selection of first through fourth gears by controlling the pressure to the three shift valves.

Shift Solenoid 1:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 621,* P0750,* P0751, P0781,** P0782,** P0783.** (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)

Shift Solenoid 2:
Symptoms: Improper gear selection depending on failure mode and manual lever position; refer to the Shift Solenoid Operation Chart. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 617,** 618,** 619,** 622,* P0755,* P0781,** P0782,** P0783,** P0756. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical conditions. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)
__________________________________________
See also:

http://e4od.com/logo_page.htm

According to one of the original E4OD/4R100 engineers: "With the solenoids unplugged you'll have max line pressure. With the shift handle in OD you will only have fourth gear with the torque converter unlocked. If you move the shifter to 2 or 1 you will have second gear. Reverse also works."
__________________________________________
TSB 89-09-18 Introduction to the E4OD

LIGHT TRUCK:
1989 E-250, E-350, F SUPER DUTY, F-250, F-350

ISSUE: The E4OD is a new 4-speed automatic overdrive transmission. The E4OD transmission was derived from the C-6 automatic (3-speed) transmission.

ACTION: Use the following information to familiarize yourself with the various E4OD components. This information can help you explain the operation of the transmission to the customer.

The E4OD uses electronic controls to control shift points, pressure regulation and torque converter clutch control. This provides high quality shifts, good fuel economy and overall performance. The engine and transmission are monitored with diagnostic testing available through the EEC-IV Quick Test. The E4OD operations are provided by both operator selected positions of the manual selector lever and with an overdrive cancel switch located on the instrument panel.

FUNCTIONS

P (Park), R (Reverse), and N (Neutral) are the same as other Ford automatic transmissions.

D (Overdrive - normal driving position) provides all automatic shifts through fourth gear (overdrive) along with application and release of the converter clutch. The transmission may also be shifted manually between all forward ranges.

D (Overdrive - with overdrive cancel switch activated, amber light on. This position is selected by pushing the button on the instrument panel, or shift stalk on later models.) provides all automatic shifts, including the application and release of the converter clutch, except the shift into overdrive. It is used to provide additional engine braking for descending grades.

2 (Manual second) provides only second gear operation regardless of vehicle speed. It is useful for start-up on slippery surfaces or to provide engine braking on downgrades.

1 (Manual low) provides only low (1st) gear at start-ups. At higher speeds it results in a downshift to second gear followed by an automatic downshift to low which occurs when vehicle speed decreases enough. Once in low, the transmission will stay in low until the selector is moved to another position.

ELECTRONIC CONTROL
The E4OD is electronically controlled by a microprocessor known as the EEC-IV processor (electronic control assembly, ECA). The EEC-IV processor controls both the engine and the transmission on gasoline engine applications in the same microprocessor. On diesels the ECA controls the transmission only. Electronic control also provides powertrain system diagnostic capabilities which will result in earlier and more accurate resolution of E4OD malfunctions. Service technicians can detect many types of transmission concerns if they occur during the standard EEC-IV "Quick Test" on both gas and diesel use. Additionally, the overdrive cancel switch indicator light will flash during certain conditions which will inform the driver to go to a Ford dealer for servicing.

The processor gathers information from sensors located throughout the vehicle which are monitoring vehicle operating conditions. Using this information, the processor determines the best operating state for the transmission. A solenoid body assembly, containing five solenoids, receives the processor signals which in turn produces the desired mode of operation.

Altitude compensation for shift quality and cold ambient warm-up strategy are also provided in the electronic controls. This eliminates the need for changes to the transmission for operating in mountainous regions. It also allows the E4OD to operate effectively even in extreme cold.

An overdrive cancel switch allows lockout of overdrive with the push of a button. The switch is located on the instrument panel and is useful for providing increased engine braking on downhill grades. Depressing the switch will lock out overdrive (amber light turns on). Pressing it again, will change the system back to normal operation. Whenever the ignition key is turned on, the vehicle will automatically provide overdrive operation regardless of the switch position the last time the vehicle was running.

FUNCTIONAL COMPONENTS
Components from the intermediate brake drum rearward to the output shaft and extension housing seal are similar to the C-6 automatic transmission. However, the E4OD planetary gears have a higher contact ratio for quieter operation. Forward of the intermediate brake drum, the E4OD components are new. These new parts are:
> Center support assembly
> Overdrive ring gear
> Coast clutch
> Overdrive sun gear and planet gear assembly
> Pump and support assembly
> Converter and clutch/damper assembly

The E4OD has wider forward gear ratios than the C-6 as shown below.

Gear - C6 - E4OD
1st - 2.46 - 2.71
2nd - 1.46 - 1.538
3rd - 1.00 - 1.00
OD - NA - 0.712
Rev - 2.18 - 2.18

Currently there are 12 E4OD models for use in F-250/350 (4x2 and 4x4), Econoline (5.8L/7.3L Diesel/7.5L) and F Super Duty (7.3L Diesel/7.5L). For details in diagnosing, testing, disassembling and assembling, see Section 17-09 of the 1989 Truck Shop Manual. Also see the E4OD Theory and Diagnosis Technical Training Manual (Order No. 1710-012). The E4OD, like the C-6, is filled with Mercon fluid. The fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles for severe service use. See this PDF for proper fluid application.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
E4OD TSBs:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

98-16-08 TRANSMISSION - E4OD/4R100 - 1989-99 - MAIN CONTROLS, SEPARATOR PLATES AND SEPARATOR PLATE GASKETS USAGE CHART

98-16-07 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NO 2-3 UPSHIFT

98-13-21 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - SERVICE CASE REPLACEMENT SERVICE TIPS FOR 7.3L DIESEL VEHICLE APPLICATIONS

98-04-19 LAMP - FLASHING TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 STORED IN MEMORY
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - FLASHING TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 STORED IN MEMORY

97-19-20 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - MAIN REGULATOR BOOSTER VALVE AND SLEEVE SERVICE KIT - SERVICE TIP

97-12-13 TRANSMISSION - C6, E4OD, AOD, 4R70W - LOW TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL AND/OR SHIFT AND/OR ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS - 4X4 AND AWD VEHICLES ONLY

96-07-28 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - REVERSE CLUTCH PISTON AND PISTON SEAL USAGE - SERVICE TIP

95-25-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DIRECT CLUTCH PLATE USAGE CHART - SERVICE TIP

95-23-14 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NEW DESIGN INTERMEDIATE BAND APPLY SERVO ASSEMBLY

95-16-19 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - INTERMEDIATE BRAKE DRUM ASSEMBLY USAGE - SERVICE TIP

95-13-07 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - HARSH AND/OR DOUBLE BUMP ON REVERSE ENGAGEMENT - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE ONLY

95-11-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DELAYED FORWARD ENGAGEMENT AND/OR HEAT STAINED FORWARD CLUTCH PLATES AFTER INSTALLING CENTER SUPPORT SERVICE KIT F4TZ-7A130-B

95-11-12 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - REVISED REAR CASE BUSHING

95-06-19 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NEW DESIGN TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (TR) AND CONNECTOR INCLUDED WITH ALL E4OD REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSIONS

95-06-18 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - OVERDRIVE ONE-WAY CLUTCH - SERVICE TIPS

95-02-12 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES - WATER INTRUSION OF THE MLP/TR SENSOR
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - POSSIBLE WATER INTRUSION INTO THE MLP/TR SENSOR CAUSING SHIFT CONCERNS AND/OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - SHIFT CONCERNS AND/OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS DUE TO WATER INTRUSION OF THE MLP/TR SENSOR

94-24-15 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADE - BALL BEARING CENTER SUPPORT SERVICE KIT

94-23-18 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - EXCESSIVE BUSHING WEAR - LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH MALFUNCTION
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - FORWARD CLUTCH WEAR
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - OVERHEATING - CONVERTER COVER DISCOLORATION, CLUTCHES BURNED, BURNT FLUID
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADED COMPONENTS TO BE INSTALLED DURING TEARDOWN

94-21-14 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - VEHICLE DOES NOT MOVE - DIAGNOSIS AND SERVICE TIPS

94-21-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADED OVERDRIVE PLANET ASSEMBLY AND INPUT SHAFT WHEN REPLACEMENT OF EITHER BECOMES NECESSARY

94-11-08 E4OD TRANSMISSION/ATX TRANSAXLE - EXCHANGE REQUIRED WHEN REPAIR COST EXCEEDS $1,300 FOR E4OD OR $1,100 FOR ATX
TRANSMISSION - E4OD/ATX - EXCHANGE PROGRAM INCREASES AVAILABILITY OF REMANUFACTURED UNITS - E & F SERIES LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH E4OD TRANSMISSIONS, TAURUS WITH 2.5L ENGINES, TEMPO/TOPAZ WITH 2.3L HSC/HSO ENGINES

94-09-13 HEATER - "GURGLING" NOISE FROM CORE AT COLD START - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
NOISE - "GURGLING" SOUND FROM HEATER CORE AT COLD START - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

94-08-20 TRANSMISSION - E4OD AND C-6 - INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR "NEW UNITIZED PLASTIC CAGE" LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH - 1989-94 MODELS WITH E4OD AND ALL MODEL YEARS WITH C-6
TRANSMISSION - E4OD AND C-6 - NO FORWARD ENGAGEMENT - SERVICE TIPS FOR INSTALLING "NEW UNITIZED PLASTIC CAGE" LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH - 1989-94 MODELS WITH E4OD AND ALL MODEL YEARS WITH C-6

94-02-25 TRANSMISSIONS - C-6, E4OD, AOD - DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT - CABLE BINDS DUE TO ENVIRONMENTAL EXPOSURE

93-19-11 SHEET METAL - CAB BACK PANEL "BOOM" NOISE - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE AND E4OD OR C6 TRANSMISSION
NOISE - "BOOM" FROM CAB BACK PANEL - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE AND E4OD OR C6 TRANSMISSION

93-12-16 NOISE - "CLUNK" - WHEN MOVING THE E4OD TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER TO ENGAGE TRANSMISSION RANGES
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - "CLUNK" NOISE WHEN MOVING THE TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER TO ENGAGE TRANSMISSION RANGES

93-08-14 LAMP - "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" - ON AND CODE 41 (HEGO INDICATING RICH/LEAN) IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - 7.5L WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

93-07-07 SURGE - 5.0L - ON ACCELERATION OR STEADY SPEED BELOW 35 MPH (56 KMH) - CALIFORNIA CALIBRATIONS WITH E4OD

92-22-05 BRAKES - REAR ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM ELECTRONICS INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - LOSS OF INSTRUMENTATION GAUGES - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
LAMP - TRANSMISSION CONTROL LIGHT CYCLES ON/OFF OR CONTROL SWITCH INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
WIRING - E4OD TRANSMISSION CONTROL SWITCH - SHORTS IN STEERING COLUMN AND BLOWS #17 FUSE
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - CONTROL SWITCH WIRING SHORTS IN STEERING COLUMN AND BLOWS #17 FUSE
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - EARLY SHIFTS, LOSS OF POWER, POOR ACCELERATION AND 3-4 SHIFT CYCLING

92-18-12 LAMP - "MALFUNCTIONING INDICATOR LAMP" - ON AND CODE 173 (HEGO INDICATING RICH) IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - 5.8L WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

92-15-13 LAMP - "CHECK ENGINE" MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) LIT - SERVICE CODE 173 IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - VEHICLES WITH 5.0L AND E4OD

92-09-13 MISS - 4.9L - RANDOM MISFIRE - VEHICLES WITH AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION
STALL - 4.9L - DURING TRANSMISSION GEAR ENGAGEMENT - E4OD ONLY
LATE GEAR SHIFTS AND ENGINE MISS

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E4OD Diagnostic Flowchart
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E4OD Diagnostic Flowchart
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'96 Electronic Auto Trans Controls

See also:

http://e4od.com/logo_page.htm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
E4OD TSBs:

98-16-08 TRANSMISSION - E4OD/4R100 - 1989-99 - MAIN CONTROLS, SEPARATOR PLATES AND SEPARATOR PLATE GASKETS USAGE CHART

98-16-07 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NO 2-3 UPSHIFT

98-13-21 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - SERVICE CASE REPLACEMENT SERVICE TIPS FOR 7.3L DIESEL VEHICLE APPLICATIONS

98-04-19 LAMP - FLASHING TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 STORED IN MEMORY
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - FLASHING TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 STORED IN MEMORY

97-19-20 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - MAIN REGULATOR BOOSTER VALVE AND SLEEVE SERVICE KIT - SERVICE TIP

97-12-13 TRANSMISSION - C6, E4OD, AOD, 4R70W - LOW TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL AND/OR SHIFT AND/OR ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS - 4X4 AND AWD VEHICLES ONLY

96-07-28 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - REVERSE CLUTCH PISTON AND PISTON SEAL USAGE - SERVICE TIP

95-25-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DIRECT CLUTCH PLATE USAGE CHART - SERVICE TIP

95-23-14 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NEW DESIGN INTERMEDIATE BAND APPLY SERVO ASSEMBLY

95-16-19 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - INTERMEDIATE BRAKE DRUM ASSEMBLY USAGE - SERVICE TIP

95-13-07 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - HARSH AND/OR DOUBLE BUMP ON REVERSE ENGAGEMENT - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE ONLY

95-11-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DELAYED FORWARD ENGAGEMENT AND/OR HEAT STAINED FORWARD CLUTCH PLATES AFTER INSTALLING CENTER SUPPORT SERVICE KIT F4TZ-7A130-B

95-11-12 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - REVISED REAR CASE BUSHING

95-06-19 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - NEW DESIGN TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR (TR) AND CONNECTOR INCLUDED WITH ALL E4OD REMANUFACTURED TRANSMISSIONS

95-06-18 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - OVERDRIVE ONE-WAY CLUTCH - SERVICE TIPS

95-02-12 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES - WATER INTRUSION OF THE MLP/TR SENSOR
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - POSSIBLE WATER INTRUSION INTO THE MLP/TR SENSOR CAUSING SHIFT CONCERNS AND/OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - SHIFT CONCERNS AND/OR HARSH ENGAGEMENT CONCERNS DUE TO WATER INTRUSION OF THE MLP/TR SENSOR

94-24-15 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADE - BALL BEARING CENTER SUPPORT SERVICE KIT

94-23-18 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - EXCESSIVE BUSHING WEAR - LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH MALFUNCTION
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - FORWARD CLUTCH WEAR
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - OVERHEATING - CONVERTER COVER DISCOLORATION, CLUTCHES BURNED, BURNT FLUID
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADED COMPONENTS TO BE INSTALLED DURING TEARDOWN

94-21-14 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - VEHICLE DOES NOT MOVE - DIAGNOSIS AND SERVICE TIPS

94-21-13 TRANSMISSION - E4OD - UPGRADED OVERDRIVE PLANET ASSEMBLY AND INPUT SHAFT WHEN REPLACEMENT OF EITHER BECOMES NECESSARY

94-11-08 E4OD TRANSMISSION/ATX TRANSAXLE - EXCHANGE REQUIRED WHEN REPAIR COST EXCEEDS $1,300 FOR E4OD OR $1,100 FOR ATX
TRANSMISSION - E4OD/ATX - EXCHANGE PROGRAM INCREASES AVAILABILITY OF REMANUFACTURED UNITS - E & F SERIES LIGHT TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH E4OD TRANSMISSIONS, TAURUS WITH 2.5L ENGINES, TEMPO/TOPAZ WITH 2.3L HSC/HSO ENGINES

94-09-13 HEATER - "GURGLING" NOISE FROM CORE AT COLD START - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
NOISE - "GURGLING" SOUND FROM HEATER CORE AT COLD START - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

94-08-20 TRANSMISSION - E4OD AND C-6 - INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR "NEW UNITIZED PLASTIC CAGE" LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH - 1989-94 MODELS WITH E4OD AND ALL MODEL YEARS WITH C-6
TRANSMISSION - E4OD AND C-6 - NO FORWARD ENGAGEMENT - SERVICE TIPS FOR INSTALLING "NEW UNITIZED PLASTIC CAGE" LOW ONE-WAY CLUTCH - 1989-94 MODELS WITH E4OD AND ALL MODEL YEARS WITH C-6

94-02-25 TRANSMISSIONS - C-6, E4OD, AOD - DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT - CABLE BINDS DUE TO ENVIRONMENTAL EXPOSURE

93-19-11 SHEET METAL - CAB BACK PANEL "BOOM" NOISE - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE AND E4OD OR C6 TRANSMISSION
NOISE - "BOOM" FROM CAB BACK PANEL - VEHICLES WITH 4.9L ENGINE AND E4OD OR C6 TRANSMISSION

93-12-16 NOISE - "CLUNK" - WHEN MOVING THE E4OD TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER TO ENGAGE TRANSMISSION RANGES
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - "CLUNK" NOISE WHEN MOVING THE TRANSMISSION SELECTOR LEVER TO ENGAGE TRANSMISSION RANGES

93-08-14 LAMP - "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" - ON AND CODE 41 (HEGO INDICATING RICH/LEAN) IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - 7.5L WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

93-07-07 SURGE - 5.0L - ON ACCELERATION OR STEADY SPEED BELOW 35 MPH (56 KMH) - CALIFORNIA CALIBRATIONS WITH E4OD

92-22-05 BRAKES - REAR ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM ELECTRONICS INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - LOSS OF INSTRUMENTATION GAUGES - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
LAMP - TRANSMISSION CONTROL LIGHT CYCLES ON/OFF OR CONTROL SWITCH INOPERATIVE - VEHICLES WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION
WIRING - E4OD TRANSMISSION CONTROL SWITCH - SHORTS IN STEERING COLUMN AND BLOWS #17 FUSE
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - CONTROL SWITCH WIRING SHORTS IN STEERING COLUMN AND BLOWS #17 FUSE
TRANSMISSION - E4OD - EARLY SHIFTS, LOSS OF POWER, POOR ACCELERATION AND 3-4 SHIFT CYCLING

92-18-12 LAMP - "MALFUNCTIONING INDICATOR LAMP" - ON AND CODE 173 (HEGO INDICATING RICH) IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - 5.8L WITH E4OD TRANSMISSION

92-15-13 LAMP - "CHECK ENGINE" MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) LIT - SERVICE CODE 173 IN CONTINUOUS MEMORY - VEHICLES WITH 5.0L AND E4OD

92-09-13 MISS - 4.9L - RANDOM MISFIRE - VEHICLES WITH AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION
STALL - 4.9L - DURING TRANSMISSION GEAR ENGAGEMENT - E4OD ONLY
LATE GEAR SHIFTS AND ENGINE MISS

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THERE COULD BE ERRORS IN THIS DIAGRAM - I'M RESEARCHING IT...

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

NSS / PNP / MLPS / DTR / TR pinouts
WPT-___ | WPT- 389
WPT-289 | WPT- 389

Logic Table:
Start Power (Wh/Pk) should be open to all other pins except closed (under 5 Ohms) to Starter Relay (R/LB) in Park & Neutral
4Low (R/W) should be open to all other pins except closed (under Ohms) to Ground (Bk or switch case) in Neutral
RUN Power (Pu/Or) should be open to all other pins except closed (under 5 Ohms) to Backup Lamps (Bk/Pk) in Reverse
TR Signal (LB/Y) should be open to all other pins except closed (resistance varies by position) to SigRet (Gy/R) at all times

TR Signal (LB/Y) to Signal Return (Gy/R) resistance values:
P = 3770-4607 Ohms
R = 1304-1593 Ohms
N = 660-807 Ohms
(D) = 361-442 Ohms
2 = 190-232 Ohms
1 = 78-95 Ohms

See also:
. . . .

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E4OD Torque Converter Installation
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http://e4od.com/logo_page.htm

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C6 Exploded Diagram for '93 (others similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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C6hydr93.jpg | Hits: 54 | Size: 79.68 KB | Posted on: 2/19/24 | Link to this image


C6 Hydraulic Schematic for '93 trucks (others similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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C6Exploded.jpg | Hits: 15432 | Size: 45.36 KB | Posted on: 2/17/07 | Link to this image


C6 Exploded & Hydraulic Schematic
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 7902 Torque Converter
2 87650-S Converter Drain Plug, 1/8-27, Dryseal Tapered Thread
3 7017 Input Shaft
4 Front Pump Seal (Part of 7A103)
5 Front Pump Bushing (Part of 7A103)
6 Front Pump Body (Part of 7A103)
7 58619-S2 Bolt
8 Pump Driven Gear (Part of 7A103)
9 Pump Drive Gear (Part of 7A103)
10 Front Pump Support (Part of 7A103)
11 20346-S8 Hex-Head Bolt (Part of 7A103)
12 7A103 Front Pump Assembly
13 7D014 Thrust Washer, No. 1
14 7A248 Front Pump Seal, Large
15 7D025 Intermediate Brake Drum Seal (2 Req'd)
16 7A136 Pump Gasket
17 7D029 Intermediate Brake Band Strut
18 7D034 Intermediate Band
19 7D430 Intermediate Band Anchor Strut
20 7D044 Intermediate Brake Drum
21 7E056 Direct Clutch Piston Inner Seal
22 7A548 Direct Clutch Piston Outer Seal
23 7A262 Direct Clutch Piston
24 7B488 Direct Clutch Piston Spring (10 Req'd)
25 7A527 Direct Clutch Piston Spring Retainer
26 377136-S Direct Clutch Piston Spring Retainer Ring
27 7B442 Direct Clutch External Spline Plate (Steel)
28 7B164 Direct Clutch Internal Spline Plate (Friction)
29 7B066 Direct Clutch Pressure Plate
30 7D248 Intermediate Brake Drum Thrust Washer No. 2
31 377126-128S, 377437, 377444-S Direct Clutch Pressure Plate Retaining Ring
32 7D019 Forward Clutch Cylinder Seal (2 Req'd)
33 7A360 Forward Clutch Cylinder
34 7A548 Forward Clutch Piston Outer Seal
35 7A548 Forward Clutch Piston Inner Seal
36 7A262 Forward Clutch Piston
37 7D256 Forward Clutch Piston Spring Ring
38 7B070 Forward Clutch Piston Disc Spring
39 377127-S Retaining Ring
40 7B066 Forward Clutch Front Pressure Plate
41 7E085 Forward Clutch Wave Spring
42 7B442 Forward Clutch External Spline Plate (Steel)
43 7B164 Forward Clutch Internal Spline Plate (Friction)
44 7B066 Forward Clutch Rear Pressure Plate
45 377127-S, 377437-S, 377444-S, 386841-2-S Forward Clutch Pressure Plate Retaining Ring
46 7D090 Forward Clutch Hub Thrust Washer No. 4
47 377132-S Retaining Ring
48 7B067 Forward Ring Gear Hub
49 7D392 Forward Ring Gear
50 7A166 Forward Planet Carrier Thrust Washer No. 5
51 7D236 Forward Clutch Hub Thrust Race
52 7D234 Forward Clutch Hub Thrust Bearing Assembly No. 3 and No. 6 (2 Req'd)
53 7D235 Forward Clutch Hub Thrust Race
54 7A398 Forward Planet Carrier Assembly
55 7D063 Sun Gear
56 377300-S Front Retaining Ring
57 7D064 Input Shell
58 7D066 Input Shell Thrust Washer
59 377300-S Rear Retaining Ring
60 377155-S Retaining Ring
61 7D423 Reverse Planet Carrier Thrust Washer No. 7 and No. 8
62 7D006 Reverse Planet
63 387031-S5 Retaining Ring
64 7A153 Output Shaft Ring Gear
65 7D164 Output Shaft Hub
66 377132-S Output Shaft Hub Retaining Ring
67 7D422 Output Shaft Hub Thrust Bearing No. 9
68 7B067 Reverse Clutch Hub
69 7A089 One-Way Clutch Assembly
70 385044-S Reverse Clutch Retaining Ring
71 7B066 Reverse Clutch Pressure Plate
72 7B164 Reverse Clutch Internal Spline Plate (Friction)
73 7B442 Reverse Clutch External Spline Plate (Steel)
74 7E085 Reverse Clutch Wave Spring
75 7D403 Reverse Clutch Piston Outer Seal
76 7D404 Reverse Clutch Piston Inner Seal
77 One-Way Clutch Race, Inner (Part of 7D164)
78 7D406 Reverse Clutch Retainer and Spring Assembly
79 7D402 Reverse Clutch Piston
80 7D167 One-Way Clutch Inner Tag Attaching Bolt (5 Req'd)
81 7005 Case
82 7B368 Output Shaft Thrust Washer No. 10
83 7A233 Output Shaft Park Gear
84 7C232 Fluid Distributor Sleeve
85 7D000 Fluid Distributor Tube, Inlet
86 7D000 Fluid Distributor Tube, Outlet
87 20386-S8 Bolt (4 Req'd)
88 387035-S5 Retaining Ring
89 7D011 Governor Housing Seal Ring (3 Req'd2 Teflon?, 1 Cast Iron)
90 7D220 Governor Fluid Collector Body
91 7C063 Governor
92 34805-S8 Bolt (4 Req'd)
93 378259 Cup Plug
94 7060 Output Shaft
95 7086 Extension Housing Gasket
96 7A039 Extension Housing (4x2)
97 7A034 Extension Housing Bushing
98 7052 Extension Housing Fluid Seal
99 380207-S2 Bolt (2 Req'd) (4x2 Only)
100 7G496 Switch Wiring Harness Retainer (4x2)
101 57621-S2 Screw and Washer Assembly, 1/4-20 x .62
102 7H183 Extension Housing Plug (Used to Plug Speedometer Gear Hole)
103 380209-S Bolt (4 Req'd) (4x2)
104 7G496 Vacuum Tube Retainer (4x2)
105 7A039 Extension Housing (4x4)
106 7G495 Vacuum Tube Retainer (4x4)
107 380209-S Bolt (4 Req'd) (4x4)
108 7G496 Switch Wiring Harness Retainer (4x4)
109 58642-S2 Bolt (2 Req'd) (4x4 Only)
110 57633-S2 Bolt (4 Required)
111 Transmission Model Identification Tag (Not Serviced)
112 7D027 Intermediate Band Servo Cover
113 7D024 Intermediate Band Servo Cover Piston Seal
114 7D026 Intermediate Band Servo Cover Gasket
115 7D021 Intermediate Band Servo Piston and Rod Assembly
116 7D028 Intermediate Band Servo Piston Spring
117 7D273 Fluid Tube Connector (2 Required)
118 87650-S Pipe Plug, 1/8-27 Dryseal (Used in Case for Measuring Throttle Valve Pressure)
119 7034 Vent
120 7E206 Intermediate Band Servo Lever Shaft Retainer
121 7D433 Intermediate Band Actuating Lever Shaft
122 7330 Intermediate Servo Band Lever
123 7D071 Parking Pawl Shaft
124 7A441 Parking Pawl
125 7D070 Parking Pawl Return Spring
126 379058-SScrew and Washer Assembly
127 7D419 Park Rod Guide Plate (Serviced in Kits Only)
128 56119-S Hex Flange Head Bolt, 5/16-18 x .82 (7F013, 7F006 and 7A377 to 7005)
129 7F013 Vacuum Diaphragm Heat Shield
130 7A377 Throttle Valve Control Diaphragm
131 7F006 Vacuum Diaphragm Clip
132 7A380 Throttle Control Valve Rod
133 7D080 Primary Throttle Valve
134 33798-S8Nut, 5/16
135 34806-S7Hex Lockwasher
136 7A394 Downshift Control Outer Lever
137 Bolt 55651-S2
138 Park/Neutral Position Switch 7A247
139 Throttle Control Outer Lever Seal 386078-S
140 Manual Control Lever 7A256
141 Manual Control Lever Fluid Seal 7B498
142 Lock Nut 375185-S100
143 Adjusting Screw 7A178
144 1/4-20 x .50 Hex Flg. Bolt 56501-S2
145 Manual Valve Detent Lever Spring 7A261
146 Parking Plate Shaft Plug 6572
147 Parking Plate Shaft 7D418
148 Parking Plate Torsion Spring 7D417
149 Parking Rod Support Plate 7D414
150 1/8-27 Pipe Plug, Dryseal Tapered Thread (Used in Case for Measuring Pump Pressure) 87650-S
151 Parking Pawl Actuating Rod (Serviced in Kits Only) 7D411
152 Downshift Detent Lever 7D261
153 9/16-18 Hex Lock Nut 380525-S
154 Manual Valve Detent Lever (Serviced in Kits Only) 7A115
155 Shift Valve Plate (Not Serviced Separately)
156 Gear Selector Valve Rod 7326
157 Downshift Lever Stop (Part of 7A100) 7D075
158 Throttle Pressure Booster Valve Plate (Not Serviced Separately)
159 Throttle Pressure Valve Secondary Spacer 7D227
160 Upper Control Valve Body (Part of 7A100)
161 Main Control Valve Body Reinforcement Plate (Part of 7A100)
162 Main Control Valve Body Separator Plate Reinforcement (Part of 7A100)
164 Main Control Pump Inlet Screen 7E387
165 Valve Body Separating Plate (Part of 7A100)
166 Valve Body Separating Plate Gasket 7D100
167 Lower Control Valve Body (Part of 7A100)
168 Fluid Pan Screen Gasket 7E062
169 Fluid Screen 7A098
170 10-24 x 1-5/8 Inch Bolt, Hex-Head (2 Req'd) 357050-S
171 Lower Main Control Valve Body Suction Tube 7A102
172 10-24 x 1-1/4 Inch Bolt, Hex-Head (6 Req'd) 337051-S
173 Main Control Valve Body 7A100
174 Fluid Pan Gasket 7A191
175 Transmission Fluid Pan (Shallow 4x2) (Deep 4x4) 7A194
176 Bolt 378782-S
177 Vacuum Diaphragm O-Ring 87031
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE DANGER OF CHANGING THE ATF

I'm no slushbox expert, but this is how I understand it:

A) Starting with a good trans & the right fluid, over time, debris is generated in the trans due to normal wear & contamination. The fluid contains detergent additives that keep this debris suspended in the fluid until it can flow back to the filter to be removed.

B) But the fluid only contains SO MUCH detergent. So if it's not changed on-schedule, the debris doesn't get suspended, and it settles out all over the trans. But this alone doesn't cause any immediate problems, which is why so many people neglect the trans fluid for so long.

C) Eventually, someone realizes how old the fluid is, and changes it with fresh detergent-rich fluid. This begins to break up the deposits, but it also loosens large chunks, which can block up the valve body's fine passages & ports, causing MAJOR damage.

D) From what I've seen, there are 3 possible ways to avoid this damage:
1) change the fluid on the recommended schedule
2) rebuild the trans
3) change the filter & fluid once, using decent aftermarket ATF. It's also a good time to add the drain plug kit. Then drive 50-200 miles to break up most of the deposits. Then change the fluid & filter again, using MotorCraft Mercon. If the trans goes out after that, it was going out anyway.

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TCase ID 87-93.jpg | Hits: 7602 | Size: 68.57 KB | Posted on: 7/26/03 | Link to this image


T-Case '87-93 Applications

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TCase ID 93-96.jpg | Hits: 6505 | Size: 58.59 KB | Posted on: 7/26/03 | Link to this image


T-Case '93-96 Applications

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T-caseBoltPattern.JPG | Hits: 6991 | Size: 21.55 KB | Posted on: 7/13/08 | Link to this image


T-case bolt pattern for all '80-96 ('97 heavy) fullsize 4WD Ford trucks. Trans output shaft is always 31-spline.

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NP208Fex.jpg | Hits: 2836 | Size: 86.63 KB | Posted on: 1/9/15 | Link to this image


New Process 208F Transfer Case (E4TA-7A195-GA) exploded view (Bronco version with fixed rear yoke)

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NP208Fx.JPG | Hits: 9855 | Size: 70.41 KB | Posted on: 10/13/10 | Link to this image


New Process 208-F Transfer Case (E4TA-7A195-GA) Exploded

1 - Input Seal
2 - Input Bearing
3 - Front Case Half
4 - Range Cog
5 - Spacer
6 - Thrust Bearing
7 - Sun Gear
8 - Planet Gear
9 - Planetary Case
10 - Annulus Gear
11 - Splash Shield
12 - Front Slinger
13 - Front Output Seal
14 - Front Output Bearing
15 - Range Fork & Pin
16 - Drive Shift Fork
17 - Shift Rod
18 - Washers
19 - Front Shaft Front Bearing
20 - Front Output Shaft
21 - Front Driven Gear
22 - Spacer
23 - Washers
24 - Front Shaft Rear Bearing
25 - Rear Output Shaft
26 - Spacers
27 - Needle Bearings
28 - Drive Cog
29 - Clutch Carrier
30 - Snap Ring
31 - Clutches
32 - Chain Drive Gear
33 - Chain
34 - Splash Shield
35 - Rear Case Half
36 - Rear Output Housing
37 - Spacer
38 - Speedometer Drive Gear
39 - Snap Ring
40 - Output Yoke
41 - Seal Washer
42 - Yoke Nut

See also:

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/transfer-cases.html

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NP208F.JPG | Hits: 13048 | Size: 96.97 KB | Posted on: 8/20/10 | Link to this image


NP208F (E4TA-7A195-GA) Powerflow
__________________________________________
TSB 83-03-24 TRANSFER CASE - NP208 - RANGE FORK AND NYLON ANNULUS HUB WEAR


LIGHT TRUCKS 1982-83 BRONCO, F150-250 (4x4)

New Process Gear Model 208 Transfer Cases on the above vehicles built after January 19, 1982 have a new range fork and annulus gear assembly design.

The annulus gear hub and web assembly (7B066) can be damaged when the transfer case is operated with low lube fluid levels or with a rough surface finish fork or thrust washer. This will result in transfer case shifting difficulties. The damaged nylon hub will appear to be melted or severely scored and must be replaced. The range fork (7289) and thrust washer (7D484) must also be replaced since surface finish damage or sharp edges created during the prior condition can cause accelerated wear of the new hub and web assembly and result in a repeat service. The transfer case should be refilled with 7 pints of new automatic transmission fluid lube (XT-2-QDX) and checked for any leaks. With the vehicle in a level position, the lube fluid must be up to fill plug opening.

PART NUMBER PART NAME CLASS

E2TZ-7B066-A Hub and Web B
E1TZ-7289-B Range Fork C
E1TZ-7D484-A Thrust Washer BM
XT-2-QDX Transmission Fluid-Dexron II V
____________________________________________
That TSB disagrees with this chart on the fluid capacity:


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BW1345Ex.JPG | Hits: 4380 | Size: 63.28 KB | Posted on: 3/16/12 | Link to this image


Borg-Warner 1345 transfer case (E3TA-7A195-RA)

Note that ALL applications use a fixed rear yoke.

. .

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BW1345.JPG | Hits: 10166 | Size: 100.11 KB | Posted on: 8/18/10 | Link to this image


Borg-Warner 1345 transfer case (E3TA-7A195-RA)

Note that ALL applications use a fixed rear yoke.

. .

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TcaseShifter87Sliding.JPG | Hits: 5619 | Size: 75.53 KB | Posted on: 8/12/12 | Link to this image


Rare '87 Sliding Transfer Case Shifter

Apparently used on some BW1356 & BW1345 (E3TA-7A195-RA) transfer cases.

389240-S100 - Bolt, shifter pivot
58695-S - Bolt, shifter to tailhousing
7086 - Gasket, tailhousing to transfer case
7210 - Shifter Assembly
7213 - Shifter Knob
7277 - Boot
7335 - Roller
7A195 - Transfer Case
7B106 - Lever
7D494 - Breather Cap
7E063 - Skidplate
7E074 - Seal Pad
7G015 - Shifter Pattern Button
N605787-S2 - Bolt, Skidplate
N610959-S2 - Boot Screw
N620481-S50 - Nut, Skidplate
N630069-S39 - Washer
N802743-S2 - Bolt, upper shifter to lower

For later push-down shifter, see:


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TcaseShifterNP208F.JPG | Hits: 3646 | Size: 71.32 KB | Posted on: 3/13/13 | Link to this image


'80-86 Transfer Case Shifters for NP208F

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BW1356ManEx.jpg | Hits: 3790 | Size: 90.34 KB | Posted on: 12/24/16 | Link to this image


BW1356 Exploded, manual shift, early (rear yoke)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
.

The range switch 7B440 might be Ford 4L3Z7E440AB/ MC SW6251 (OEM: Pollack).

Transfer Case, Mechanical Shift

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description Tool Number
Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A
Bearing Cup Replacer T73T-1202-A
Driver Handle T80T-4000-W
Bearing Cup Replacer T73T-1202-B
Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-P
Output Shaft Seal Replacer T86T-7034-CH
Extension Housing Seal Replacer T61L-7657-B


Disassembly

1. Remove transfer case (7A195) from vehicle. Refer to Transfer Case procedure in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
2. Remove front shaft nut (7045), output shaft yoke washer (7B368 ), and oil seal (7052) and remove the front output case yoke (7B214) from the transfer case. On Bronco, repeat procedure for rear output circular case yoke.
3. Remove the 4WD indicator switch and aluminum spacer washer from the transfer case. Do not lose this washer as it is required for the proper operation of this switch.
4. Remove the front and rear output shaft yoke to flange seals (7B215) using a screwdriver.
5. Remove the input shaft yoke to flange seal using screwdriver.
6. Remove the four No. 50 Torx%uFFFD head bolts (7A443) securing the rear bearing retainer to the case. Pry the rear bearing retainer from the rear case using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate and remove the rear bearing retainer from the case. Remove all traces of silicone rubber from the mating surfaces of the case and the bearing retainer. CAUTION: When removing RTV sealant, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium cases (7005).
7. Remove the snap ring on the rear output shaft retaining the upper rear bearing (7025) using snap ring pliers.
8. Remove the 12 No. 50 Torx%uFFFD head bolts that retain the front case to the rear case. Insert a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate. Lift the front case from the rear case. Remove all traces of RTV Gasket Sealant from the mating surfaces of the front case and the rear case. CAUTION: When removing the silicone rubber, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium cases.
9. Remove front output shaft caged needle bearing from the rear case with Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Collet D80L-100-T from Blind Hole Puller Set D80L-100-A or equivalent.
10. Drive out the rear output shaft bearing from the inside of the rear case using a brass drift, tapping it lightly with a small hammer so as not to cause any damage to the case.
11. Remove the snap ring from the output shaft securing the shift collar hub. Slide the shift collar hub off of the output shaft.
12. Remove the shift fork spring from the shift rail and lift the shift mode (2WD/4WD) fork complete with the shift collar hub from the rear output shaft.
13. Disassemble the 2W-4W lockup assembly by removing the internal snap ring and pull the lockup hub and spring from the lockup collar.
14. Remove the snap ring retaining the driven sprocket to the front output shaft. Grasp the drive and driven sprocket complete with the chain and lift them at the same time from the drive and driven output shafts.
15. Remove the shift rail by sliding it straight out from the shift fork.
16. Lift out the pump screen and remove the output shaft with the pump assembled on it. If the pump is to be disassembled, remove the four bolts from the pump body. Note the position of the pump front body, pins, spring, rear cover and pump retainer as removed. CAUTION: Do not disassemble oil pump unless the oil pump retaining bracket has been bent or broken, or pump damage is indicated. Indications of pump damage are blueing or blackening of the pump, or loosening of the pump bolts.
17. Remove the oil pan magnet (7L027) from its slot in the case.
18. Remove the high-low shift fork by first rotating it until the roller is free from the cam, then sliding out of engagement from the shift collar hub.
19. Remove the shift collar hub.
20. Turn the front case over and remove the front input yoke to flange seal from the case using a screwdriver.
21. Reaching through the front opening with a pair of snap ring pliers, carefully expand the snap ring on the input shaft allowing it to drop out of the bearing. The front planet (7A398 ), including the input shaft, is serviced as an assembly only. If the bearing or bushing is to be replaced, drive out both of them through the input spline using suitable tools such as a brass drift and a small hammer, being careful not to damage the case.
22. Remove the ring gear (7A153) by prying out the internal snap ring with a screwdriver and lift out the gear.
23. Remove the internal snap ring securing the input shaft bearing to the case.
24. Remove the input shaft bearing using Bearing Cup Replacer T73T-1202-A and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W.
25. Remove the internal snap ring securing the front output shaft bearing in the case.
26. Drive the bearing out from the front of the case using Bearing Cup Replacer T73T-1202-B and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W.
27. Place the shift lever in the NEUTRAL position so the shift cam setscrew can be seen through the hole for the 4WD indicator switch.
28. Remove the setscrew using a hex key tool.
29. Remove the shift lever by sliding it out of the case.
30. Remove the shift cam.
31. Remove the shifter shaft seal (7288 ) by carefully prying it out of the case, being careful not to damage the case.
32. Remove the shift cam, assist spring, and assist spring bushing from the case.

Assembly
Before assembly, lubricate all parts with Motorcraft MERCON%uFFFD ATF XT- 2-QDX or MERCON%uFFFD equivalent. Remove all chips from the bolt holes in the case and rear case.

1. Install the input shaft and the front output shaft bearing in the case using Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-P and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. Install the internal snap rings retaining the bearing in the case.
2. Drive the front output yoke to flange seal into the case until it is fully seated against the case using Output Shaft Seal Replacer T86T-7034-CH.
3. Install the front output shaft through the lower bearing. The front output shaft is held in place in the case by the front output yoke to flange seal and oil seal slinger. Install the front case yoke onto the front output shaft, then the oil seal, output shaft yoke washer and 32mm shaft nut. Tighten the yoke shaft nut to 203-244 Nm (150-180 lb-ft).
4. Press the needle bearing and bronze bushing into the input shaft and carrier assembly with the appropriate tools, making sure that the bearing and bushing are driven in straight.
5. Install the ring gear into the slots in the case and retain it with the large internal snap rings making sure that it is fully seated.
6. Install the input shaft and front planet in the case through the input shaft bearing, being careful not to damage the gear teeth when aligning them with the ring gear teeth.
7. While supporting the front planet in position, install a new snap ring on the front side of the input shaft bearing, making sure that it is fully seated in the snap ring groove of the input shaft.
8. Install the upper input shaft yoke to flange seal into the case using an appropriate tool until it is fully seated against the case.
9. Install a new shifter shaft seal into the case using an appropriate tool.
10. Install the shift cam detent spring in position in the bushing of the shift cam and in the recess in the case.
11. Assemble the shift cam into the case by sliding the shift shaft and lever through the case and seal into engagement with the shift cam. Install the setscrew through the holes in the case for the 4WD indicator switch.
12. Lubricate all pump parts with clean automatic transmission fluid prior to assembly.
13. Assemble the pump and output shaft as follows:
- a. Place the oil pump cover with the word TOP facing the front of the case.
- b. Install the two pins (with the flats facing toward the rear of the vehicle) with the spring between the pins and place the assembly in the oil pump bore in the output shaft.
- c. Place the oil pump body and pick-up tube over the output shaft and make sure that the pins are riding against the inside of the pump body.
- d. Place the oil pump rear cover with the words TOP REAR facing the rear of the output shaft. NOTE: The word TOP on the front cover and the rear cover should be on the same side.
- e. Install the pump retainer with the tabs facing the front of the transfer case.
- f. Install the four retaining bolts and rotate the output shaft while tightening the bolts to prevent the pump from binding. Tighten bolts to 4-4.5 Nm (36-40 lb-in). NOTE: The output shaft must turn freely within the oil pump. If binding occurs, loosen the four bolts and retighten as outlined.
14. Install the shift collar. Install the high-low shift fork by engaging it with the shift hub flange and rotating it until the roller is engaged with the lower groove of the cam.
15. Install the shift rail through the high-low fork bore and into the rail bore in the case.
16. Install the output shaft and oil pump in the input shaft. Make sure the external splines of the output shaft engage the internal splines of the shift collar hub. Make sure the oil pump retainer and oil filter leg are in the groove and notch of the front case. Install the oil pan magnet in the slot in the front case.
17. Assemble the following components:
- a. Assemble the drive sprocket into the chain.
- b. Assemble the driven sprocket into the chain so the word REAR is facing upward. NOTE: The sprocket engagement spline will face the rear of the vehicle when properly installed.
- c. Place the sprockets and chain as an assembly over the rear and front output shafts.
- d. Install the thrust washer (7119) and snap ring that retains the lower sprocket to the front output shaft.
18. Assemble the 2W-4W lockup as follows:
- a. Position the small end of the tapered compression spring in the lockup collar.
- b. Place the lockup hub over the large end of the spring and compress the spring while installing the internal snap ring. NOTE: The snap ring holds the lockup together.
19. Install the lockup and its shift fork over the external splines of the drive sprocket and the shift rail with the cam follower feature of the fork facing the front of the transfer case.
20. Assemble the 4WD return spring over the shift rail and against the shift fork.
21. Place the lockup hub over the external splines of the output shaft and secure with the appropriate snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the snap ring groove.
22. Press the front output needle bearing in its bore in the rear case using an appropriate tool.
23. Press the rear output shaft bearing into position in the rear case using an appropriate tool. Install bearing snap ring retainer in rear case.
24. Install the rear output shaft yoke to flange seal in the bearing retainer using the appropriate tool and making sure that it is fully seated.
25. Coat the mating surface of the front case with a very small bead of Black Non-Acid Cure Silicone Rubber E7TZ-19562-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESL-M4G273-A. CAUTION: If too much silicone rubber is used when sealing the case halves, the excess sealant may plug the oil filter and cause case failure.
26. Place the case halves together making sure that the front output shaft, shift shaft and shift rail are aligned. Install and tighten the 12 No. 50-Torx%uFFFD head bolts to 35-43 Nm (26-32 lb-ft).
27. Install the rear bearing snap ring on the output shaft making sure that the snap ring is fully seated in the groove of the output shaft.
28. Apply a very small bead of Black Non-Acid Cure Silicone Rubber ET7Z-19562-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESL-M4G273-A to the face of the rear bearing retainer or rear slip-yoke extension housing (7A039).
29. Place the rear bearing retainer or rear slip-yoke extension housing in its position and secure with the four Torx%uFFFD bolts tightened to 30-49 Nm (22-36 lb-ft).
30. On transfer case with slip-yoke rear bearing retainer housing, remove the yoke to flange seal using a screwdriver. If the bushing in the rear slip yoke extension housing is damaged and must be replaced, it must be replaced with the extension housing as an assembly. The bushing alone cannot be serviced. Install a new seal using Extension Housing Seal Replacer T61L-7657-B.
31. For fixed yoke models, install the rear output shaft case yoke and slinger onto the rear splines of the output shaft. Install the oil seal, output shaft yoke washer and 32mm shaft nut on the output shaft and tighten to 163-203 Nm (120-150 lb-ft).
32. Install the drain plug and tighten to 9-23 Nm (7-17 lb-ft).
33. Install the 4WD indicator switch with aluminum washer into the case. Tighten 4WD indicator switch to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
34. Install the transfer case.
35. Fill transfer case.
36. Start engine, check transfer case for correct operation. Stop engine and check fluid level. Fluid should drip out of level hole. If fluid flows out of level hole, the oil pump may not be functioning properly.

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BW1356ManShift.jpg | Hits: 33423 | Size: 84.33 KB | Posted on: 10/2/05 | Link to this image


BW 1356 Manual (F1TA-7A195-EA) Exploded (shown with optional PTO plate)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 7045 Shaft Nut (163-203Nm, 120-150 lb-ft)
2 7B368 Output Shaft Yoke Washer
3 7052 Oil Seal
4 7B215 Yoke to Flange Seal
5 -- Extension (Rear Spline) Cap, Bearing (Rear Yoke/Flange) (Serviced As Part of 7085 Assembly)
6 7085 Extension Assembly (Rear Spline) Cap Assembly, Bearing (Rear Yoke/Flange)
7 7A443 Bolt and Washer Assembly (30-49Nm, 22-36 lb-ft)
8 -- Flange (Rear Flange) (Serviced As Part of 7B214 Assembly)
9 7917 Ring, Snap
10 7025 Bearing
11 7917 Ring, Snap
12 7100 Shift Collar Hub
13 7127 Caged Needle Bearing
14 7A010 Plug, Pipe (9-23Nm, 7-17 lb-ft)
15 7917 Ring, Retaining
16 7D164 Lockup Hub
17 7D126 Spring, Lockup
18 7106 Lockup Collar
19 7177 Sprocket, Drive
20 7A210 Hose
21 382486-S Clamp, Hose
22 7A291 Pump Housing to Case Bolt (4-4.5Nm, 36-40 lb-in)
23 7E215 Retainer, Pump
24 7A152 Cover, Pump
25 7A149 Housing, Pump
26 7A250 Pin, Pump
27 7A205 Spring, Pump Pin
28 7061 Output Shaft
29 7100 Shift Collar Hub
30 7A398 Front Planet
31 7C122 Ring, Retaining
32 7A153 Ring Gear
33 7A098 Filter, Oil
34 -- Gear, PTO (with PTO Only)
35 7917 Ring, Retaining
36 -- Ring, Retaining (Part of 7B215)
37 7166 Case Deflector Gasket (with PTO Only)
38 7165 Transfer Case Cover (with PTO Only)
39 381673-S Bolt (with PTO Only)
40 7034 Vent
41 7E440 4WD Indicator Switch
42 -- Setscrew (Part of 7E440)
43 -- Fork, Reduction (Serviced As Part of 7289 Assembly)
44 -- Facing, Shift Fork (Serviced As Part of 7289 Assembly)
45 7289 Ford Assembly Reduction
46 7235 Roller, Cam (Service As Part of 7289 Assembly)
47 -- Pin (Part of 7289)
48 7C430 Facing, Shift Fork
49 -- Retainer (Serviced As Part of 7289 Assembly)
50 7289 Fork Assembly, Shift, 2W-4W
51 7240 Shift Rail
52 7219 Shift Fork Spring
53 7C349 Spring, Detent
54 7C191 Bushing, Detent
55 7F063 Cam, Shift
56 7288 Shifter Shaft Seal
57 7B106 Lever, Shaft and Pin Assembly
58 7005 Case Front
59 -- Pin Dowel (Part of 7005)
60 7L027 Oil Pan Magnet
61 7917 Ring, Retaining
62 7061 Output Shaft
63 7177 Sprocket, Driven
64 7119 Thrust Washer
65 7917 Ring, Retaining
66 7A029 Chain, Drive
67 -- Yoke (Serviced As Part of 7B214 Assembly)
68 7005 Case Rear

F2TZ-7210-K 4X4 Shifter Assembly (Mazda R2, ZFLD)
F2TZ-7210-N 4X4 Shifter Assembly (E4OD)
F2TZ-7210-P 4X4 Shifter Assembly (T18, C6, AOD, ZFHD)
F2TZ-7B051-A Control Rod (Mazda R2, ZFLD 7.25" OC)
F2TZ-7B051-B Control Rod (ZFHD)
F2TZ-7B051-C Control Rod (T18, C6)
F2TZ-7B051-D Control Rod (AOD)
F2TZ-7B051-E Control Rod (E4OD)
F6TZ-7B051-HA Control Rod (E4OD to BW4407, 9" OC)

The ZF/C6 shifter detent plate also fits the Mazda M5OD-R2.
___________________________________________________________
Transfer Case, Manual Shift, 13-56 Disassembly

1. Remove transfer case (7A195) from vehicle. Refer to Transfer Case procedure in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
2. Remove front shaft nut (7045), output shaft yoke washer (7B368 ), and oil seal (7052) and remove the front output case yoke (7B214) from the transfer case. On Bronco, repeat procedure for rear output circular case yoke.
3. Remove the 4WD indicator switch and aluminum spacer washer from the transfer case. Do not lose this washer as it is required for the proper operation of this switch.
4. Remove the front and rear output shaft yoke to flange seals (7B215) using a screwdriver.
5. Remove the input shaft yoke to flange seal using screwdriver.
6. Remove the four No. 50 Torx head bolts (7A443) securing the rear bearing retainer to the case. Pry the rear bearing retainer from the rear case using a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate and remove the rear bearing retainer from the case. Remove all traces of silicone rubber from the mating surfaces of the case and the bearing retainer. CAUTION: When removing RTV sealant, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium cases (7005).
7. Remove the snap ring on the rear output shaft retaining the upper rear bearing (7025) using snap ring pliers.
8. Remove the 12 No. 50 Torx head bolts that retain the front case to the rear case. Insert a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar between the pry bosses and separate. Lift the front case from the rear case. Remove all traces of RTV Gasket Sealant from the mating surfaces of the front case and the rear case. CAUTION: When removing the silicone rubber, use care not to damage the mating surfaces of the magnesium cases.
9. Remove front output shaft caged needle bearing from the rear case with Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A and Collet D80L-100-T from Blind Hole Puller Set D80L-100-A or equivalent.
10. Drive out the rear output shaft bearing from the inside of the rear case using a brass drift, tapping it lightly with a small hammer so as not to cause any damage to the case.
11. Remove the snap ring from the output shaft securing the shift collar hub. Slide the shift collar hub off of the output shaft.
12. Remove the shift fork spring from the shift rail and lift the shift mode (2WD/4WD) fork complete with the shift collar hub from the rear output shaft.
13. Disassemble the 2W-4W lockup assembly by removing the internal snap ring and pull the lockup hub and spring from the lockup collar.
14. Remove the snap ring retaining the driven sprocket to the front output shaft. Grasp the drive and driven sprocket complete with the chain and lift them at the same time from the drive and driven output shafts.
15. Remove the shift rail by sliding it straight out from the shift fork.
16. Lift out the pump screen and remove the output shaft with the pump assembled on it. CAUTION: Do not disassemble oil pump unless the oil pump retaining bracket has been bent or broken, or pump damage is indicated. Indications of pump damage are blueing or blackening of the pump, or loosening of the pump bolts. If the pump is to be disassembled, remove the four bolts from the pump body. Note the position of the pump front body, pins, spring, rear cover and pump retainer as removed.
17. Remove the oil pan magnet (7L027) from its slot in the case.
18. Remove the high-low shift fork by first rotating it until the roller is free from the cam, then sliding out of engagement from the shift collar hub.
19. Remove the shift collar hub.
20. Turn the front case over and remove the front input yoke to flange seal from the case using a screwdriver.
21. Reaching through the front opening with a pair of snap ring pliers, carefully expand the snap ring on the input shaft allowing it to drop out of the bearing. The front planet (7A398 ), including the input shaft, is serviced as an assembly only. If the bearing or bushing is to be replaced, drive out both of them through the input spline using suitable tools such as a brass drift and a small hammer, being careful not to damage the case.
22. Remove the ring gear (7A153) by prying out the internal snap ring with a screwdriver and lift out the gear.
23. Remove the internal snap ring securing the input shaft bearing to the case.
24. Remove the input shaft bearing using Bearing Cup Replacer T73T-1202-A and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W.
25. Remove the internal snap ring securing the front output shaft bearing in the case.
26. Drive the bearing out from the front of the case using Bearing Cup Replacer T73T-1202-B and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W.
27. Place the shift lever in the NEUTRAL position so the shift cam setscrew can be seen through the hole for the 4WD indicator switch.
28. Remove the setscrew using a hex key tool.
29. Remove the shift lever by sliding it out of the case.
30. Remove the shift cam.
31. Remove the shifter shaft seal (7288 ) by carefully prying it out of the case, being careful not to damage the case.
32. Remove the shift cam, assist (detent) spring, and assist spring bushing from the case.

Assembly

Before assembly, lubricate all parts with Motorcraft MERCON ATF XT- 2-QDX or MERCON equivalent. Remove all chips from the bolt holes in the case and rear case.
1. Install the input shaft and the front output shaft bearing in the case using Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-P and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. Install the internal snap rings retaining the bearing in the case.
2. Drive the front output yoke to flange seal into the case until it is fully seated against the case using Output Shaft Seal Replacer T86T-7034-CH.
3. Install the front output shaft through the lower bearing. The front output shaft is held in place in the case by the front output yoke to flange seal and oil seal slinger. Install the front case yoke onto the front output shaft, then the oil seal, output shaft yoke washer and 32mm shaft nut. Tighten the yoke shaft nut to 203-244 Nm (150-180 lb-ft).
4. Press the needle bearing and bronze bushing into the input shaft and carrier assembly with the appropriate tools, making sure that the bearing and bushing are driven in straight.
5. Install the ring gear into the slots in the case and retain it with the large internal snap rings making sure that it is fully seated.
6. Install the input shaft and front planet in the case through the input shaft bearing, being careful not to damage the gear teeth when aligning them with the ring gear teeth.
7. While supporting the front planet in position, install a new snap ring on the front side of the input shaft bearing, making sure that it is fully seated in the snap ring groove of the input shaft.
8. Install the upper input shaft yoke to flange seal into the case using an appropriate tool until it is fully seated against the case.
9. Install a new shifter shaft seal into the case using an appropriate tool.
10. Install the shift cam detent spring in position in the bushing of the shift cam, and in the recess in the case.
11. Slide the shift shaft and lever through the case and seal into engagement with the shift cam. Install the setscrew through the holes in the case for the 4WD indicator switch.
12. Lubricate all pump parts with clean automatic transmission fluid prior to assembly.
13. Assemble the pump and output shaft as follows:
a. Place the oil pump cover with the word TOP facing the front of the case.
b. Install the two pins (with the flats facing toward the rear of the vehicle) with the spring between the pins and place the assembly in the oil pump bore in the output shaft.
c. Place the oil pump body and pick-up tube over the output shaft and make sure that the pins are riding against the inside of the pump body.
d. NOTE: The word TOP on the front cover and the rear cover should be on the same side. Place the oil pump rear cover with the words TOP REAR facing the rear of the output shaft.
e. Install the pump retainer with the tabs facing the front of the transfer case.
f. NOTE: The output shaft must turn freely within the oil pump. If binding occurs, loosen the four bolts and retighten as outlined. Install the four retaining bolts and rotate the output shaft while tightening the bolts to prevent the pump from binding. Tighten bolts to 4-4.5 Nm (36-40 lb-in).
14. Install the shift collar. Install the high-low shift fork by engaging it with the shift hub flange and rotating it until the roller is engaged with the lower groove of the cam.
15. Install the shift rail through the high-low fork bore and into the rail bore in the case.
16. Install the output shaft and oil pump in the input shaft. Make sure the external splines of the output shaft engage the internal splines of the shift collar hub. Make sure the oil pump retainer and oil filter leg are in the groove and notch of the front case. Install the oil pan magnet in the slot in the front case.
17. Assemble the following components:
a. Assemble the drive sprocket into the chain.
b. NOTE: The sprocket engagement spline will face the rear of the vehicle when properly installed. Assemble the driven sprocket into the chain so the word REAR is facing upward.
c. Place the sprockets and chain as an assembly over the rear and front output shafts.
d. Install the thrust washer (7119) and snap ring that retains the lower sprocket to the front output shaft.
18. Assemble the 2W-4W lockup as follows:
a. Position the small end of the tapered compression spring in the lockup collar.
b. NOTE: The snap ring holds the lockup together. Place the lockup hub over the large end of the spring and compress the spring while installing the internal snap ring.
19. Install the lockup and its shift fork over the external splines of the drive sprocket and the shift rail with the cam follower feature of the fork facing the front of the transfer case.
20. Assemble the 4WD return spring over the shift rail and against the shift fork.
21. Place the lockup hub over the external splines of the output shaft and secure with the appropriate snap ring. Make sure the snap ring is fully seated in the snap ring groove.
22. Press the front output needle bearing in its bore in the rear case using an appropriate tool.
23. Press the rear output shaft bearing into position in the rear case using an appropriate tool. Install bearing snap ring retainer in rear case.
24. Install the rear output shaft yoke to flange seal in the bearing retainer using the appropriate tool and making sure that it is fully seated. CAUTION: If too much silicone rubber is used when sealing the case halves, the excess sealant may plug the oil filter and cause case failure. Coat the mating surface of the front case with a very small bead of Black Non-Acid Cure Silicone Rubber E7TZ-19562-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESL-M4G273-A.
25. Place the case halves together making sure that the front output shaft, shift shaft and shift rail are aligned. Install and tighten the 12 No. 50-Torx head bolts to 35-43 Nm (26-32 lb-ft).
26. Install the rear bearing snap ring on the output shaft making sure that the snap ring is fully seated in the groove of the output shaft.
27. Apply a very small bead of Black Non-Acid Cure Silicone Rubber ET7Z-19562-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESL-M4G273-A to the face of the rear bearing retainer or rear slip-yoke extension housing (7A039).
28. Place the rear bearing retainer or rear slip-yoke extension housing in its position and secure with the four Torx bolts tightened to 30-49 Nm (22-36 lb-ft).
29. On transfer case with slip-yoke rear bearing retainer housing, remove the yoke to flange seal using a screwdriver. If the bushing in the rear slip yoke extension housing is damaged and must be replaced, it must be replaced with the extension housing as an assembly. The bushing alone cannot be serviced.
30. Install a new seal using Extension Housing Seal Replacer T61L-7657-B.
31. For fixed yoke models, install the rear output shaft case yoke and slinger onto the rear splines of the output shaft. Install the oil seal, output shaft yoke washer and 32mm shaft nut on the output shaft and tighten to 163-203 Nm (120-150 lb-ft).
32. Install the drain plug and tighten to 9-23 Nm (7-17 lb-ft).
33. Install the 4WD indicator switch with aluminum washer into the case. Tighten 4WD indicator switch to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
34. Install the transfer case.
35. Fill transfer case with Motorcraft MERCON ATF XT- 2-QDX or MERCON equivalentt.
36. Start engine, check transfer case for correct operation. Stop engine and check fluid level. Fluid should drip out of level hole. If fluid flows out of level hole, the oil pump may not be functioning properly.
___________________________________________________________
See also:
. . . . . . .

For electric-shift-on-the-fly, see this:


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BW1356ESOF.JPG | Hits: 20631 | Size: 105.18 KB | Posted on: 12/31/06 | Link to this image


BW 1356 Electronic Shift-On-the-Fly (ESOF) (F1TA-7A195-DA)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The pump stay arm (the triangle in the bottom center inset) is known to wear through the case rib & spin, causing the pump to stop pumping, causing the t-case to run dry & grenade. This applies to both the ESOF & manual versions.



For wiring, see this:


For troubleshooting, see this:


For manual shift, see this:

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BW1356FrSeal.jpg | Hits: 6730 | Size: 57.27 KB | Posted on: 1/18/06 | Link to this image


BW 1356 Front Seal Removal & Installation

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T-Case93ES.jpg | Hits: 15851 | Size: 32.72 KB | Posted on: 1/22/05 | Link to this image


93 Bronco Transfer Case (BW1356) Electronic Shift-On-the-Fly (ESOF) (F1TA-7A195-DA)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

.

For troubleshooting, see this:
.

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T-case95EVTM.jpg | Hits: 7916 | Size: 36.09 KB | Posted on: 1/22/05 | Link to this image


ESOF T-Case 95 Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

.

For troubleshooting, see this:
.

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4WDind.jpg | Hits: 55 | Size: 52.88 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


'93 4WD Indicator Lights
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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C267T-CaseES.jpg | Hits: 7182 | Size: 15.6 KB | Posted on: 1/22/05 | Link to this image


T-Case Switch C267 '93 Bronco

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DrivelineAngles92-96B.JPG | Hits: 3938 | Size: 38.85 KB | Posted on: 3/7/13 | Link to this image


Driveline Angles for '92-96 Broncos
The rear axle shim for all '78-96 Broncos is 7° F3TZ5729A .

See also:
. . . .

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Dshafts&Ujoints.jpg | Hits: 17576 | Size: 52.83 KB | Posted on: 1/25/06 | Link to this image


Driveshafts & U-joints
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To check u-joints while the d'shaft is installed, set the e-brake, shift to N, and see how far you can rotate the t-case output back&forth WITHOUT moving the rear axle yoke/companion flange. Also see how far up&down you can push the d'shaft. Less is better.


1 Nut 382836-S100 Tighten to 11-20 N-m (8-15 lb-ft)
2 Universal Joint 4635 (Type 1330 in most Bronco rear driveshafts: 3 5/8" x 1 1/16")
3 Snap Ring (Part of 4635)
4 Bearing Cup (Part of 4635)
5 Seal (Part of 4635)
6 Trunnion (Part of 4635), aka "spider", "cross"
A Needle Rollers (Part of 4635)
B Thrust Washer (Part of 4635)
C Bearing surface (Part of 4635)
7 Driveshaft 4602
8 Pinion Nut 375646-S2 Tighten to 0.9-1.5 N-m (8-14 lb-in) preload rotating torque (used bearings) or 1.8-3.3 N-m (16-29 lb-in) new bearings.
9 U-Bolt 386867-S
10 Rear Axle Universal Joint Yoke (Half-Round) 4851
11 Dust Seal 4859
12 Driveshaft Slip Yoke 4841
13 Counter Bore/Pilot (Part of 4841)
14 Driveshaft Rear Axle Companion Flange 4851
15 Driveshaft Flange Yoke 4866
16 Bolt N800594-S100 M12x1.75x27mm Tighten to 83-118 N-m (61-87 lb-ft)
17 Double Cardan Assembly 4635
18 Slip Yoke Boot 4421
19 Driveshaft Center Yoke 4784
20 Driveshaft Centering Socket Yoke 4782 (F1TZ4782A) CarQuest (Dana/Spicer/Perfect Circle) PN 9109/7-0079
21 Centering Spring (Part of 4782)
22 Transfer Case Yoke (Flange) 7B214
23 Bolt, Tighten to 27-38 N-m (20-28 lb-ft)

************************************************
Note that greasable u-joints are physically weaker (due to the grease journals drilled through them), and those with the grease fitting screwed in between the trunnions even moreso, due to the wedge effect of the threads. They are also less durable, due to their seals constantly being blown out by the grease being pumped through them. A sealed u-joint (which should be greased before installation, and can be re-greased by disassembly later) is stronger & lasts longer with less maintenance.

See also:
. . .

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U-Joint Motion.jpg | Hits: 6254 | Size: 25.56 KB | Posted on: 1/12/05 | Link to this image


When a cross-type U-joint (Hooke's joint, Cardan joint) is flexed & rotated, the output side of the shaft (indicated by the blue ellipse which represents the path of the U-joint caps in that shaft) will experience a reduction in angular velocity relative to the input side twice per revolution, due to the reduced effective radius of rotation. As the output caps become perpendicular to the flex angle, their angular velocity becomes equal to the input; as they approach alignment with the flex angle, their angular velocity approaches its minimum (given by V'=V x [0.5+0.5 x sinó], where V' is the angular velocity of the output shaft, V is the angular velocity of the input shaft, & ó is the flex angle). This is true for each U-joint in the shaft, but having the ultimate output parallel to the input & all pairs of joints throughout the shaft system in phase (first joint's output caps joined to next joint's input caps) will result in constant velocity between the input & ultimate output, ignoring the fluctuations induced by the mass of the shaft system.

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9inch.jpg | Hits: 9490 | Size: 40.87 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


Ford 9" Exploded

Ford 8.8" & 9" axles use 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('66-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

See also:
What's the DIFF?

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Dana 44IFS-HD Exploded (Twin Traction Beam, TTB)
ERROR: 3220 is the LH shaft assembly

See also:
What's the DIFF?
Dana Axle Expert
Dana 44IFS p.121
. . . . . . .

Upper BJs: Ford F6TZ3V049AA/4C3Z3049DA, Motorcraft MCS10339, Spicer 2001257
Lower BJs: Ford F6TZ3V050CB, Motorcraft MCS10253, Spicer 2001258, TRW JBJ7011
Camber Cam: ACDelco 49K6526, McQuay-Norris AA3951, Moog K80108



'92-96 spindle studs (5 req'd per spindle) 36326-1 (3/8-24 x 1.312)
'92-96 spindle stud nuts (5 req'd per spindle) 35704 (3/8-24)

The procedure to install the steering knuckle is:
1) Assemble knuckle to axle arm assembly. Install camber adjuster on the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint with the arrow pointing outboard for "positive" camber, pointed inboard for "negative" camber.
2) Install new nut on bottom socket finger-tight. Install and tighten nut on top socket finger-tight. Tighten bottom nut to 47 N-m (35 ft-lb).
3) Tighten top nut to 136 N-m (100 ft-lb), then advance nut until castellation aligns with cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin. NOTE: Do not loosen top nut to install cotter pin.
4) Retighten bottom nut to 150 N-m (111 ft-lb).

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

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D44IFSusp.jpg | Hits: 30028 | Size: 87.41 KB | Posted on: 10/18/05 | Link to this image


Dana 44 IFSuspension (TTB), basically the same as the 2WD TIB.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
#1 & 28 are 1/2"
#9, 17, 22, & 26 are 1 1/8"
#30, 33, & 35 are 18mm hex driven; shock absorber lower bolt similar to N605704S439 or N605704S2 which lack the pointed tip
#43 has a 15mm head; #44 is 18mm; the frame bracket is F4TZ3B178A

#2 Upper Shock Bushing (Energy (9.8101G)
#3 LHF E2TZ5A306G (Dorman 523253); RHF E0TZ5A306G (Dorman 523252)

#6 Radius Arm Bracket (LH) E1TZ-3B095-B, (RH) -A


#11 & 13 Radius Arm Bushings (Energy 4.7110G)

#15 Radius Arm (LH) E8TZ-3A292-A


#18 Axle Beam (pivot bushing kit Energy 4.3133G)
#19 Front Bracket w/Quad Shock: Left E8TZ18113A, Right E8TZ18112A
#24 Lower Coil Isolator N803075S/AX18W/E8UZ5414A (Energy 9.8104G)
#27 Upper Spring Retainer EOTZ5B300B/7C2Z5B300A
#30 & 35 Lower Shock Nut (bushing Energy 9.8141G)

#43 Axle Pivot
.

#34 Front Shock Absorber
Quad front-front Ford F4TA18045PA (Gabriel 63410)
Standard front Ford F4TA18045VA (Gabriel 63414)

See also:
. . . . . .

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Suspension_Fr2WD.jpg | Hits: 2613 | Size: 74.61 KB | Posted on: 12/25/17 | Link to this image


'80-96 F-series 2WD Front Suspension

Shock absorber lower bolt similar to N605704S439 or N605704S2 which lack the pointed tip
Upper Spring Retainer EOTZ5B300B/7C2Z5B300A
Lower Coil Isolator N803075S/AX18W/E8UZ5414A (Energy 9.8104G)

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)

See also:
.
_________________________________________________
Wheel Bearing Adjustment

1. Raise the vehicle until the tire clears the floor and install safety stands.
2. To check the wheel bearing adjustment, grasp the tire at the sides. Alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire.
3. If any looseness is felt, adjust the wheel bearings as follows.
4. Remove the wheel cover if so equipped. Remove the grease cap from the hub using suitable tool.
5. Wipe the excess grease from the end of the front wheel spindle (3105). Remove the cotter pin and locknut.
6. NOTE: Do not pry on the phenolic piston of the disc brake caliper (2B120). Loosen the adjusting nut three turns. Attempt to obtain running clearance between the rotor brake surface and the linings by rocking the wheel, hub and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the linings away from the rotor, or by light tapping on the housing of the disc brake caliper or some other means that does not damage the rotor lining surfaces.
7. If running clearance cannot be maintained throughout bearing adjustment in Steps 9 and 10, the disc brake caliper must be removed.
8. Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 23-34 N-m (17-25 lb-ft) while rotating the wheel or brake rotor in the opposite direction.
9. Back the nut off approximately one half turn.
10. Tighten the nut to 2.03-2.26 N-m (18-20 lb-in).
- End play should be .000-.127mm (.000-.005 inch).
- Torque required to rotate the hub should be 1.13-2.82 N-m (10-25 lb-in).
11. Install the retainer and new cotter pin bending both ends of cotter pin in opposite direction around retainer. Install grease cap.
12. Install the disc brake caliper if removed.
13. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
14. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 135 N-m (100 lb-ft) for F-150 vehicles. All other vehicles, tighten lug nuts to 190 N-m (140 lb-ft).
15. Install the wheel cover, if equipped.
16. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal (2455) several times to restore normal braking action.

WARNING: AFTER 800 KILOMETERS (500 MILES) OF OPERATION, RETIGHTEN THE LUG NUTS (1012) TO SPECIFICATIONS.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH DUAL REAR WHEELS (1007) RETIGHTEN THE LUG NUTS TO THE SPECIFIED TORQUE AT 160 KM (100 MILES), AND AGAIN AT 800 KM (500 MILES) OF NEW VEHICLE OPERATION AND AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED IN THE SEPARATE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE AND RECORD LOG.
WARNING: RETIGHTEN AT LUG NUTS 800 KM (500 MILES) AFTER ANY WHEEL CHANGE OR ANY TIME THE LUG NUTS ARE LOOSENED.
WARNING: FAILURE TO RETIGHTEN LUG NUTS AT MILEAGES SPECIFIED COULD CAUSE WHEELS TO COME OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION, POSSIBLY CAUSING LOSS OF VEHICLE CONTROL AND COLLISION.

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D50IFSx.jpg | Hits: 526 | Size: 89.07 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Dana 50IFS Twin Traction Beam (TTB) Exploded
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Shock absorber lower bolt N605704S439 or N605704S2

See also:
What's the DIFF?
Dana Axle Expert
. . .

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SteeringLinkage.JPG | Hits: 23918 | Size: 74.96 KB | Posted on: 10/5/06 | Link to this image


Steering Linkage for Bronco & F150
VIEW A IS INCORRECT - there is no adjusting sleeve at the pitman arm. The main view is correct.

1 Tie Rod Ball Stud (Part of 3A131) (R has RH threads, MotorCraft MEOE140; L has LH threads, MotorCraft MEOE141)
2 Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve 3310 (R is small, Ford E7TZ3281C MotorCraft MEOE54 or MES2212R; L is large, MotorCraft MEOE53 or MES2213L)
3 Tie Rod End Left Inner 3A131 (RH threads, MotorCraft MEOE95)
4 Steering Arm Drag Link (Right Inner) 3304 (LH threads, Ford E0TZ3304B, E2TZ3304A, E6TZ3304A, E6TZ3304C, E9TZ3304F; MotorCraft MDOE11 or MDS1018; TRW SDS928; ACDelco 45B1040)
5 Drag Link Ball Stud (Part of 3304)
6 Steering Gear Sector Shaft Arm 3590
7 Steering Damper Bracket 3E652
8 Nut & Washer N806889-S56 Tighten to 34-48 N-m (25-35 Lb-Ft)
9 Insulator N806889-S
10 Steering Damper 3281
11 Nut N800895 Tighten to 70-100 N-m (51-73 Lb-Ft)
12 Cotter Pin 642569
13 Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve Clamp Tighten to 40-57 N-m (30-42 Lb-Ft)
A Tighten to 70-100 N-m (51-73 Lb-Ft)

For replacement tie rod end boots, use 4 Energy 9.13101G.

'80-96 Bronco PS pitman arm engineering number E2TA-3590-GA

See also:
. . . . .

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AlignmentSpecs.jpg | Hits: 446 | Size: 52.04 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


'92 Alignment Specifications
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Alignment_Cam.jpg | Hits: 422 | Size: 84.68 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Camber Cam Rotation Offset
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:

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AlignmentFrontWheels.JPG | Hits: 11565 | Size: 55.08 KB | Posted on: 10/24/07 | Link to this image


Front Wheel Alignment
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Wheel alignment measurements describe the angular orientation of the wheel/tire assembly and the steering axis. Caster, camber and toe are the three major, measurable, alignment parameters that most affect tire wear and directional stability. A description of these and other alignment-related parameters follow. It is important to note that the values of these change when a vehicle is loaded (ride height / lean) and driven. Therefore, the specifications shown in this section reflect the static measurement of alignment required so that the vehicle will have an alignment when driven that is most favorable for tire wear and directional stability.

.

Ride Height

The ride height setting of the Twin-I-Beam & Twin-Traction-Beam suspension is critical before any other measurements are taken because it affects caster, camber, toe, included angle, driveline angles, and frame wear. Vehicle Lean is equally critical since it affects the camber split, toe change while driving, and frame wear. Ride height may have been altered or a lean caused by spring aging, suspension/frame damage, suspension modification, overloading, anti-sway bar system damage, or installed accessories.

. . . . .

Toe

Toe is intended to change slightly with ride height to provide optimum handling and tire life within the vehicle load range limits. It tends to change toward toe-out as the ride height is lowered. If toe is within specification for the vehicle condition described in the specifications charts, there should be no need to readjust toe setting with varying loads. However, if aftermarket equipment that significantly affects the ride height (i.e., snowplow, second unit bodies, tool boxes) is added, the toe may need to be adjusted. Toe should be maintained at the specified setting with the vehicle in the loaded condition that it experiences for more than 50 percent of its use.



Dogtracking

All F-150-250-350 (4x2) (4x4), Bronco and E-150-250-350 vehicles with single rear wheels (SRW) have, by design, a front track that is wider than the rear track. Front track is the distance between the two front tires, and likewise for the rear. When a vehicle with these track differences is driven on a crowned road, the front may tend to ride higher up the crown than the rear, making these vehicles appear to dogtrack. Dog-tracking may also be a result of frame or rear suspension damage.

.

Front End General Inspection

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust front wheel alignment without first making a preliminary inspection of the front end parts, and correcting where necessary.

Prior to inspection, fill all fluids to specification. Make sure spare tire or wheel, and related equipment are properly stored. Remove any excessive accumulation of mud, dirt or road deposits from the chassis and underbody. Retain all normal loads in the vehicle. Inflate all tires to the pressure specified on the Safety Compliance Certification Label (usually located on the inside driver's door pillar). Check all tires, making sure they are the same size, ply rating, and load range across each axle.

NOTE: Codes identifying the front and rear spring options and springs are printed on the Safety Standard Certification Label. Springs should be replaced in pairs if one is found to be damaged or worn. If a spring should require replacement because it is damaged, worn or due to a leaning conditioning, it should be replaced only with the same part as specified on the label. In rare instances, the spring codes will not reflect the springs as installed due to a DSO option or assembly plant substitution. If a DSO option number is shown on the certification label, the District Office can establish whether springs are affected. If the factory-installed springs do not agree with the code printed on the Safety Standard Certification Label (right and left spring part number should match), replace the damaged or worn spring with a new spring of the same part number as the damaged or worn spring. It will not be necessary to replace the matching, non-worn or undamaged spring.

1. Inflate all tires to the specified pressure (cold). Check all tires. They should be the same size, ply rating and load range across each axle.
2. Check for excessive wheel bearing end play. Adjust and/or replace the wheel bearings as described in the appropriate section.
3. Check for worn or damaged spindle ball joints. Replace the ball joints when necessary as described in the appropriate section.
4. Check for bent steering linkage or excessively worn joints.
5. Check the steering gear mounting bolts and tighten to the specified torque.
6. Inspect the radius arm to be sure it is not bent or damaged. Inspect the bushings at the radius arm-to-frame attachment for wear and looseness. Repair or replace parts as required.
7. Check other suspension components for damage.
8. Check for aftermarket changes to steering, suspension, wheel and tire components (i.e., competition, heavy duty, etc.). Specifications in this manual do not apply to vehicles with these changes.

See also:
. .

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SwayBarF.JPG | Hits: 6589 | Size: 94 KB | Posted on: 10/24/10 | Link to this image


Front Anti-Sway Bar 1/2-ton '92-96 (1" bar, 2.5" bushing)
AFAIK, all '80-86 & '92-96 Broncos use Energy 4.5106G front sway bar bushing set.

End link bolt N605704S439 or N605704S2

See also:
.
. . . . . .

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SwayBarFr87-91Xmbr.jpg | Hits: 2569 | Size: 64.9 KB | Posted on: 1/6/15 | Link to this image


'87-91 Front Anti-Sway Bar

End link bolt N605704S439 or N605704S2

. . . . .

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SwayBarFr80-86.jpg | Hits: 2299 | Size: 67.21 KB | Posted on: 1/6/15 | Link to this image


'80-86 Front Anti-Sway Bar

End link bolt N605704S439 or N605704S2

. . . . .

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Axle Types early.jpg | Hits: 7665 | Size: 42.31 KB | Posted on: 1/29/05 | Link to this image


Axle Types '76-86

. .

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

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Axle Code early.jpg | Hits: 6088 | Size: 52.43 KB | Posted on: 1/29/05 | Link to this image


Axle Codes '78-86

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Axle ID 87-90.jpg | Hits: 7860 | Size: 59.09 KB | Posted on: 7/26/03 | Link to this image


Axle '87-90 Applications

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D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

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Axle ID 91-93.jpg | Hits: 7871 | Size: 69.08 KB | Posted on: 7/26/03 | Link to this image


Axle '91-93 Applications

. .

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

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Axle ID 94-96.jpg | Hits: 7208 | Size: 69.35 KB | Posted on: 7/26/03 | Link to this image


Axle '94-96 Applications

. .

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

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Axle Code96.jpg | Hits: 8784 | Size: 51.5 KB | Posted on: 7/24/03 | Link to this image


Axle Codes

. .

D44IFS Bills of Material (Dana Part Numbers):

610062-1 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-2 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-3 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-4 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-5 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-6 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-7 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-8 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-9 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-10 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-11 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-12 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-13 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-14 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610062-15 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-16 Standard 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-17 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-18 Trac Lok 3.50 80 1/2-ton
610062-19 Standard 3.00 80 1/2-ton
610063-1 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-2 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-3 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-4 Trac Lok 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610063-5 Standard 4.09 80 3/4-ton
610063-6 Standard 3.54 80 3/4-ton
610146-1 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-2 Trac Lok 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-3 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-4 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-5 Standard 3.00 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-6 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-7 Standard 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-8 Standard 4.09 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610146-9 Trac Lok 3.54 81 3/4 & 1-ton
610185-1 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-2 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-3 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-4 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-5 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-6 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-7 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-8 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-9 Standard 3.00 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-10 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-11 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-12 Trac Lok 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-13 Standard 3.50 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-14 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-15 Standard 3.07 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-16 Trac Lok 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-17 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610185-18 Standard 3.54 81 & 82 1/2-ton
610166-1 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-2 Standard 3.50 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610166-3 Trac Lok 3.00 81.5 & 82 F150 SnowPlow
610168-1 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-2 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-3 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-4 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-5 Standard 3.00 83 1/2-ton
610168-6 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-7 Standard 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-8 Trac Lok 3.50 83 1/2-ton
610168-9 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-10 Standard 3.07 83 1/2-ton
610168-11 Trac Lok 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-12 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610168-13 Standard 3.54 83 1/2-ton
610167-2 Standard 3.50 83 F150 SnowPlow
610167-4 Standard 3.54 83 F150 SnowPlow
610169-1 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-2 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-3 Standard 3.00 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-4 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-5 Standard 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-6 Standard 4.09 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610169-7 Trac Lok 3.54 83 3/4 & 1-ton
610178-1 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-2 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-4 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-5 Standard 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-9 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-10 Standard 3.07 84 1/2-ton
610178-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-12 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610178-13 Trac Lok 3.54 84 1/2-ton
610177-1 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610177-4 Standard 3.54 84 F150 SnowPlow
610179-1 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-2 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-3 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-4 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-5 Standard 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-6 Standard 4.09 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610179-8 Trac Lok 3.54 84 3/4 & 1-ton
610198-1 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-2 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-3 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-9 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-10 Standard 3.07 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-11 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-12 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-13 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-14 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-15 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-16 Trac Lok 3.50 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-17 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610198-18 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 1/2-ton
610197-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610197-5 Standard 3.50 84.5 & 85 F150 SnowPlow
610199-1 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-2 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-3 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-4 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-5 Standard 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-6 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-7 Trac Lok 3.54 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-8 Standard 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-9 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610199-10 Trac Lok 4.09 84.5 & 85 3/4-ton
610229-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-3 Standard 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4-ton
610229-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610229-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4-ton
610231-1 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-2 Standard 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-3 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-4 Trac Lok 3.54 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-5 Standard 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610231-6 Trac Lok 4.09 85 3/4 & 1-ton
610241-1 Standard 3.07 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-2 Trac Lok 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-3 Standard 3.54 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-4 Standard 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-5 Trac Lok 3.50 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-6 Standard 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610241-7 Trac Lok 4.09 85.5 1/2-ton
610242-1 Standard 3.54 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610242-2 Standard 3.50 85.5 F150 SnowPlow
610243-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-3 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-4 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-5 Standard 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610243-6 Trac Lok 4.09 88.5 3/4-ton
610261-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610261-2 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610261-3 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-1 Standard 3.07 86 1/2-ton
610262-2 Trac Lok 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-3 Standard 3.54 86 1/2-ton
610262-4 Standard 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-5 Trac Lok 3.50 86 1/2-ton
610262-6 Standard 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610262-7 Trac Lok 4.09 86 1/2-ton
610263-1 Standard 3.54 86 F150 SnowPlow
610263-2 Standard 3.50 86 F150 SnowPlow
610264-1 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-2 Standard 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-3 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-4 Trac Lok 3.54 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-5 Standard 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610264-6 Trac Lok 4.09 86 & 87 3/4-ton
610267-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-2 Trac Lok 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-3 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-4 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610267-6 Standard 4.09 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-1 Standard 3.07 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610268-2 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 1/2-ton
610266-1 Standard 3.54 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610266-2 Standard 3.50 87 & 88 SnowPlow
610306-1 Standard 3.54 88 3/4-ton
610306-2 Standard 4.09 88 3/4-ton
610309-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610309-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 F150 SnowPlow
610311-1 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610311-2 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 91 1/2-ton
610310-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610310-2 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-1 Standard 3.07 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-2 Trac Lok 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-3 Standard 3.54 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610335-4 Standard 4.09 88.5 - 92 1/2-ton
610407-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610407-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-1 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-3 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-4 Standard 4.09 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-6 Trac Lok 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-7 Standard 3.07 92.5 1/2-ton
610408-9 Standard 3.54 92.5 1/2-ton
610411-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-2 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610411-8 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 Bronco
610414-1 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-3 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-4 Standard 4.09 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-6 Trac Lok 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-7 Standard 3.07 93 & 93.5 F150
610414-9 Standard 3.54 93 & 93.5 F150
610443-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610443-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-3 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-9 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610447-10 Standard 3.54 94 - 96 Bronco
610444-1 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-2 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-3 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610444-4 Standard 4.09 94 F150
610444-5 Trac Lok 3.31 94 F150
610444-6 Trac Lok 3.54 94 F150
610444-7 Standard 3.07 94 F150
610444-8 Standard 3.31 94 F150
610444-9 Standard 3.54 94 F150
610446-1 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-2 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-3 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-5 Trac Lok 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-6 Trac Lok 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610446-10 Standard 3.07 95 & 96 F150
610446-11 Standard 3.31 95 & 96 F150
610446-12 Standard 3.54 95 & 96 F150
610608-1 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610608-2 Standard 3.54 96.5 Bronco
610607-1 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-2 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-3 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-4 Standard 4.09 96.5 F150
610607-5 Trac Lok 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-6 Trac Lok 3.54 96.5 F150
610607-7 Standard 3.07 96.5 F150
610607-8 Standard 3.31 96.5 F150
610607-9 Standard 3.54 96.5 F150

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LeafSpr97F350s.jpg | Hits: 1420 | Size: 63.62 KB | Posted on: 12/23/16 | Link to this image


'97 F350 Rear Suspensions

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D60&70 SF.jpg | Hits: 8295 | Size: 69.75 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


Dana 60 & 70 SF Exploded
The large part MISlabelled "differential gear" is actually the "differential CARRIER". The "mate gear" is AKA differential gear, or spider gear.

See also:
What's the DIFF?
Dana Axle Expert

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D60 Front.jpg | Hits: 15434 | Size: 64.02 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


Dana 60 Front Exploded

See also:
What's the DIFF?
Dana Axle Expert

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DanaAxles60-70-80.jpg | Hits: 7487 | Size: 37.57 KB | Posted on: 1/29/05 | Link to this image


Dana 60, 70, & 80

See also:
What's the DIFF?
Dana Axle Expert

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Dana Axle Tag

For more info, see the Dana Axle Expert, Mr.N's Dana44 page, and this '92-96 D44IFS TSB:


For Ford axles, see this:


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10.25inch SF.jpg | Hits: 10661 | Size: 49.74 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


Sterling 10.25" SF SRW

See also:
What's the DIFF?

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10.25inch FF.jpg | Hits: 9646 | Size: 60.69 KB | Posted on: 1/24/05 | Link to this image


Sterling 10.25" Full-Floating SRW & DRW (inset)

See also:
What's the DIFF?

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10.25" FF Hubs

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DetroitLockerD80.JPG | Hits: 7980 | Size: 79.94 KB | Posted on: 3/16/07 | Link to this image


Detroit locker offered as OE in some Ford Dana 80 rear axles.

1 Case Assy.
2 Thrust Washer
3 Side Gear
4 Preload Dampener Kit
5 Spring Retainer
6 Spring
7 Clutch Assy.
8 Central Driver Assy.
9 Case Bolt (8 Req'd.)

The locking differential differs from the limited slip differential in that the latter is torque sensitive. The locking differential, however, is speed sensitive but not torque sensitive. The limited slip differential accomplishes its function of torque transfer via a set of friction plates. The amount of torque that is transferred varies with the type of slip condition (torque sensitive), and the speed of the slipping wheel will not increase the torque once it has reached its maximum. The Detroit Locker® locking differential accomplishes torque transfer via the central locking system that transfers 50 percent of the torque to both wheels as though no differential existed and the axle shafts were joined together. But the Detroit Locker® is speed sensitive in that, when cornering, the outer wheel must travel faster than ring gear speed, which will cause that wheel to disengage or cam out from the central driver inside the differential case (4204). When the turn is completed, the outer wheel slows back down to ring gear speed and a preloaded spring pushes the outer wheel clutch back into the lock position. When the outer wheel is disengaged, 100 percent of the available torque goes to the inner wheel. The 50 percent torque transfer and 100 percent torque transfer when turning are known as non-torque biasing, and greatly increase the vehicle's ability to climb out of deep mud, dirt, sand or snow.

The teeth on the central driver assembly and the right and left wheel clutches are dovetailed at a five-degree negative angle so that when they mesh, they cannot inadvertently cam out. When the vehicle is traveling straight, the teeth push more tightly together. Without the dovetail cut of the meshing teeth, the clutches would cam out causing the wheels to disengage from the central driver. Instead, the dovetail cut allows the teeth to mesh together as tightly as possible without the clutches camming out.

As long as the vehicle is operated in a straight forward or reverse direction over a smooth surface, the driven clutch assemblies remain locked to the central driver assembly. The Detroit Locker® differential allows the vehicle to perform as if the axle halfshafts had been welded -- the axle is completely locked. This means both wheels turn at the same speed. If one wheel loses traction or leaves the ground, the opposite wheel, which still has traction, continues to drive the vehicle until traction is regained by both wheels. There can be no one-wheel spinout.

When the vehicle turns a corner, or when one wheel passes over an obstruction, the outside wheel, or the wheel passing over the obstruction, must travel a greater distance and therefore faster than the other wheel. When this occurs, the Detroit Locker® differential automatically allows for the necessary difference in wheel speed.

During a turn, the inside driven clutch remains completely engaged with the central driver and continues to drive the vehicle. The outside driven clutch automatically disengages from the central driver, allowing the outer wheel to rotate at ground speed in the turn. When the vehicle completes the turn, the outside driven clutch automatically re-engages the central driver, and both wheels again travel at the same speed.

The Detroit Locker® differential powers both wheels yet freely permits wheel speed differentiation when required.

Prime Functions
1. Assures 100 percent of the available torque and increases drawbar pull.
2. Prevents wheel spin and power loss when one wheel loses traction.
3. Compensates for differences in wheel travel when turning or operating on uneven surfaces.

Note that there are no spider gears, but rather two drive members called driven clutch assemblies. They mate with a central driver assembly, which is driven by the ring gear through the differential case assembly.

Operation in Forward or Reverse

When a Detroit Locker® differential-equipped vehicle is operated in straight forward or reverse direction, over smooth terrain, the central driver assembly and driven clutch assemblies remain fully engaged. The Detroit Locker® differential operates as a locked unit; both wheels are driven at ring gear speed and in ring gear direction.

Operation in Turns

When making a turn, differential action is required to permit the outside wheel to travel a greater distance, and faster than the inside wheel. Therefore, the Detroit Locker® differential allows the outside wheel to turn faster than the ring gear speed, but does not permit either wheel to turn slower than the ring gear when engine power is applied.

When negotiating a right turn, for example, the right driven clutch of the Detroit Locker® differential remains fully engaged with the central driver. The central driver transmits power to the right driven clutch, which drives the right (inside) wheel at ring gear speed. The left (outside) wheel covers a greater arc than the right (inside) wheel, and, driven by the traction of the road, turns faster than ring gear speed. Likewise, the left driven clutch turns faster than the central driver. The springs act as return devices for the driven clutches when their speeds are again equal.

The teeth on the right side of the center cam mesh securely with the teeth on the right driven clutch. With the center cam locked in this position (so that it cannot rotate with respect to the central driver), the cams on the left side of the center cam serve as ramps upon which the mating teeth on the left driven clutch can rise, enabling that driven clutch to disengage from the central driver.

After the left driven clutch assembly rotates forward, the slot in the left holdout ring contacts the central driver key, and positions its lugs ahead of the slots in the center cam. This prevents the left driven clutch from re-engaging with the central driver as it rotates faster than ring gear speed. When this overrunning action ceases and the relative speed of the central driver and overrunning clutch become the same, the left holdout ring lugs re-engage the center cam slots, permitting the left driven clutch to return to full engagement with the central driver.

When negotiating a left turn, this procedure is reversed. However, the operating principle is identical.

Central Driver Assembly

This assembly consists of the central driver, center cam and snap ring. The central driver has splined teeth on its outer circumference. These splines mate with internal teeth on the inner circumference of the flanged case half. The central driver has teeth that mate with teeth on the driven clutches. These teeth transmit torque from the ring gear to the axle shafts and wheels. The center cam is mounted inside the central driver. The center cam is held in position by a centrally mounted snap ring which permits the center cam to rotate within the central driver.

The center cam, which is symmetrical, has the same number of lifts as there are driving teeth on the central driver. These lifts have low-friction ramps for disengaging the driven clutches.

The center cam has slots at the outer circumference -- one narrow slot to mate with the long-tooth key and three wider slots to mate with lugs protruding axially inward from the holdout ring.

The central driver has one key (longer tooth) protruding radially inward from its inner diameter to restrict the rotation of the center cam and holdout rings.

Driven Clutch Assembly

This assembly consists of a driven clutch and holdout ring. Two identical driven clutch assemblies are located on each side of the central driver assembly.

Each driven clutch has radial teeth that mate with teeth on the central driver. The inner driven clutch teeth mesh with the cams of the center cam. The internal diameter of each driven clutch has splines which engage the external splines of the side gears.

When assembling the two driven clutch assemblies to the central driver assembly, the slot in each holdout ring must mesh with the long tooth in the central driver, and the axial lugs on each holdout ring must mate with the center cam slots.

Spring

Detroit Locker® differentials have two identical springs. Their primary function is to ensure proper return of the driven clutches to the central driver. The spring is not utilized to hold the driven clutches and central driver together. (The central driver and driven clutches have a five-degree negative angle on their teeth which serves to hold the two components together.) Thus, replacement of springs will not correct erratic disengagement of the driven clutches and central driver.

The large diameter of the spring bears against the outer face of the driven clutch and the small diameter of the spring bears against the spring retainer, maintaining pressure against the driven clutch. As their name implies, external springs are visible when the Detroit Locker® differential is bolted together.

Spring Retainer

Detroit Locker® differentials have two identical spring retainers, which serve as shoulders for the springs.

Detroit Locker® differentials with external springs use retainers that slip over the external splines of the side gears and seat against their external flanges. The spring retainer is positioned so that the spring seats in the concave rim of the spring retainer.

Side Gear

Detroit Locker® differentials have two side gears that are splined internally to accept the axle shafts. The hub of the side gear is installed in the bore of the differential case assembly. The external splines of the side gears engage the internal splines of the driven clutch assemblies.

Preload Dampener Kit

The preload dampener kit consists of three belleville springs, a thrust block and a snap ring. Three belleville springs are installed in parallel into the side gear counterbore with the concave side of the springs facing downward into the counterbore. When assembling the thrust block into the side gear, the side with the oil slots must be visible. The snap ring is used to hold all the components inside the side gear during final assembly.

Thrust Washer

Detroit Locker® differentials with preload have two (2) thrust washers located at each end of the differential assembly. The thrust washers have two tabs or ears on them and fit into special slots inside the differential case to prevent rotation and unnecessary wear. The oil grooves stamped into one side of each thrust washer must be visible when installed in the case bore slots.

Differential Case Assembly

A differential case assembly manufactured by Tractech is supplied with Detroit Locker® differentials. The differential case assembly is splined internally to accept the central driver. The differential case is machined to accept the thrust washer tabs and the side gear hub. Match numbers are stamped on the outside diameter of each case half to ensure proper alignment during final assembly.

Backlash

The Tractech Detroit Locker® differential is designed to have mean backlash of 6.7 degrees, which when multiplied by the axle ratio gives a system backlash at the driveshaft end yoke of 30 ± 6 degrees. This is about one-tenth of a revolution in the maximum case tolerance stackup. This backlash is built into the system for proper operation and it is not adjustable.

See also:
What's the DIFF?

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Torsen T-2R Preload Exploded

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What's the DIFF?

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Early Dealer-Installed Cruise Control

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. . . . . .

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'87-91 Dealer Cruise

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Vacuum Cruise Control Components
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The right panel shows the '80-91 only steering wheel & module location. '92 trucks use the same module, but it's above the gas pedal.

F59Z-9D843-AA Amplifier
E6AZ-9C735-A Servo
E4TZ-9C888-A Control Switch Assembly '80-86 (without horn pad)
E7TZ-9C888-AA Control Switch Assembly '87-91 (without horn pad)

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. . . . . . .

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92 Vacuum Cruise Circuit (same as '80-91, except VSS instead of PSOM)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



ERRORS:
1) the PSOM is on the same side of the cowl panel as the amplifier
2) the slip ring for the switches goes to the 2nd terminal up the outer row (not the 3rd) to circuit 511/511A LG
3) not show, but critical for operation, is that 511 LG branches in the turn/hazard switch harness between Connector Y & the slip ring to also feed the brake input to the turn switch for the rear bulbs. The circuit to these bulbs MUST show less than 10 Ohms for the cruise to engage. If LED taillights are installed without a bypass resistor, the cruise will detect their high resistance as an open circuit, and disable, just as if the clutch switch is depressed.


All earlier with factory cruise are similar, but use a cable- (up to '86) or gear-driven VSS where this diagram shows "PSOM".


For diagnosis, see:
.

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Vacuum Cruise Underdash

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VSS Motorcraft DY587 (E9TA-9E731-AA/E4AZ-9E731-A) used on '87-91 trucks for cruise & E4OD applications. Used on some vehicles as an OSS. The VSS goes at the front of the rear driveshaft, either in the trans or t-case tailhousing. The early version accepts a speedometer cable at the back end (R in the diagram). Later versions (for vehicles without speedo cable) have a plug at the back. The previous style of VSS hung in the middle of the cable:

.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 89-02-07 Speedometer Accuracy

Publication Date: JANUARY 25, 1989

FORD: 1989 and prior ALL CAR LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1989 and prior ALL CAR LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL TRUCK LINES
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: The accuracy of speedometer/odometer readings may be influenced by several vehicle components or systems. The information in this TSB article is intended to assist technicians in speedometer/odometer concern diagnosis.

ACTION: Use the following supplemental information to assist in speedometer/odometer diagnostics.

OPERATION: A mechanical analog speedometer displays vehicle speed and the odometer displays total distance traveled. The speedometer/odometer assembly is cable driven by either a transmission or a transaxle. All speedometer/odometer assemblies, except for police vehicles are the same with respect to the speed accuracy tolerance used during calibration. The odometer gear ratio is fixed so that all are identical and have no error in the speedometer head.

Electronic digital operation is similar. It could use a drive cable or a speed sensor to drive the speedometer/odometer. An electronic signal is sent from a speed sensor to the digital speedometer/odometer assembly. The speed sensor is driven by a transmission or a transaxle, similar to a cable.

Several areas of concern that may affect speedometer/odometer readings are tires, axle gear ratio and speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears.

TIRES: Improper tire rolling radius and inflation pressure, temperature and size may contribute to inaccurate system readings. System accuracy testing should be performed after the tires are set at the correct pressure as shown on the safety compliance certification label. The tire should be warmed for a short period. Best results are obtained on smooth, dry pavement while driving at a constant speed within the posted speed limit.

AXLE/TRANSAXLE RATIO: The gear ratio of the rear axle or the final drive ratio of the transaxle must be known to select or check if the proper speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears are present. Various gear ratios are available, but usually are not a concern when dealing with speedometer/odometer concerns unless the gear ratio has been changed.
WARNING: NEVER CORRECT SPEEDOMETER READINGS BY CHANGING GEARS UNLESS THE ODOMETER IS ALSO OFF.

DRIVE/DRIVEN GEARS: The speedometer/odometer drive gear is located inside the transmission, transaxle or transfer case and is not easily accessed for change. The driven gear rotates the speedometer cable. Rear wheel drive vehicles have several driven gears with various numbers of teeth available to correct input to the speedometer/odometer head. Front wheel drive vehicles generally do not offer different gears for correction.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The maximum allowable odometer system accuracy error is ± 3.75% of the actual distance traveled. Ford Motor vehicles are well within those limits.

The speed indication is biased high, except on police vehicles with certified calibration speedometers/odometers. As a general rule, the indicated speed is equal to or greater than the actual speed. This is intended to protect the consumer against violating speed laws. Most customer concerns are related to speedometers reading too high at true speeds between 50 MPH and 65 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h). At that speed range, the worst case errors may indicate a speed that is 10% greater than true speed.

The speedometer head is an instrument which processes information sent to it by the rotating speedometer cable. If the system components send the wrong number of revolution per mile to the speedometer head, an inaccurate speed reading and amount of distanced traveled will be displayed. Since there is no error in the fixed gear ratio of the speedometer head odometer, start by checking the accuracy of the odometer even if the customer concern indicates a speed accuracy problem. Odometer accuracy can be checked by using roads established at mile increments or a known local course. If roads with mile markers are used, a five mile stretch is recommended to allow for inaccuracies. If an error is greater than 3.75%, a change to the transmission drive/driven gear selection, tire size, or tire inflation may need attention. The odometer should be checked again to verify any corrective action. If the indicated speed error exceeds 10% between 50 MPH and 60 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h), replace the speedometer/odometer assembly. Vehicles with transfer cases that have fluctuating readings may be due to slippage of drive gears, parts not splined or loose yoke nuts.

If the vehicle has speed control, the speed accuracy can be checked using the verified odometer vs. time. The formula is as follows:
3600 divded by TIME (seconds to cover one mile) = TRUE MPH(Km/h)

EXAMPLES:
60 MPH (96 Km/h) requires 60 seconds to cover one mile
55 MPH (88 Km/h) requires 65 and 3/4 seconds to cover one mile
50 MPH (80 Km/h) requires 72 seconds to cover one mile

SUPERSEDES: 84-14-06
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

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Speedometer Cable Removal

Lubricate with PTFE Grease only.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 89-02-07 Speedometer Accuracy

Publication Date: JANUARY 25, 1989

FORD: 1989 and prior ALL CAR LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1989 and prior ALL CAR LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL TRUCK LINES
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: The accuracy of speedometer/odometer readings may be influenced by several vehicle components or systems. The information in this TSB article is intended to assist technicians in speedometer/odometer concern diagnosis.

ACTION: Use the following supplemental information to assist in speedometer/odometer diagnostics.

OPERATION: A mechanical analog speedometer displays vehicle speed and the odometer displays total distance traveled. The speedometer/odometer assembly is cable driven by either a transmission or a transaxle. All speedometer/odometer assemblies, except for police vehicles are the same with respect to the speed accuracy tolerance used during calibration. The odometer gear ratio is fixed so that all are identical and have no error in the speedometer head.

Electronic digital operation is similar. It could use a drive cable or a speed sensor to drive the speedometer/odometer. An electronic signal is sent from a speed sensor to the digital speedometer/odometer assembly. The speed sensor is driven by a transmission or a transaxle, similar to a cable.

Several areas of concern that may affect speedometer/odometer readings are tires, axle gear ratio and speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears.

TIRES: Improper tire rolling radius and inflation pressure, temperature and size may contribute to inaccurate system readings. System accuracy testing should be performed after the tires are set at the correct pressure as shown on the safety compliance certification label. The tire should be warmed for a short period. Best results are obtained on smooth, dry pavement while driving at a constant speed within the posted speed limit.

AXLE/TRANSAXLE RATIO: The gear ratio of the rear axle or the final drive ratio of the transaxle must be known to select or check if the proper speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears are present. Various gear ratios are available, but usually are not a concern when dealing with speedometer/odometer concerns unless the gear ratio has been changed.
WARNING: NEVER CORRECT SPEEDOMETER READINGS BY CHANGING GEARS UNLESS THE ODOMETER IS ALSO OFF.

DRIVE/DRIVEN GEARS: The speedometer/odometer drive gear is located inside the transmission, transaxle or transfer case and is not easily accessed for change. The driven gear rotates the speedometer cable. Rear wheel drive vehicles have several driven gears with various numbers of teeth available to correct input to the speedometer/odometer head. Front wheel drive vehicles generally do not offer different gears for correction.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The maximum allowable odometer system accuracy error is 3.75% of the actual distance traveled. Ford Motor vehicles are well within those limits.

The speed indication is biased high, except on police vehicles with certified calibration speedometers/odometers. As a general rule, the indicated speed is equal to or greater than the actual speed. This is intended to protect the consumer against violating speed laws. Most customer concerns are related to speedometers reading too high at true speeds between 50 MPH and 65 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h). At that speed range, the worst case errors may indicate a speed that is 10% greater than true speed.

The speedometer head is an instrument which processes information sent to it by the rotating speedometer cable. If the system components send the wrong number of revolution per mile to the speedometer head, an inaccurate speed reading and amount of distanced traveled will be displayed. Since there is no error in the fixed gear ratio of the speedometer head odometer, start by checking the accuracy of the odometer even if the customer concern indicates a speed accuracy problem. Odometer accuracy can be checked by using roads established at mile increments or a known local course. If roads with mile markers are used, a five mile stretch is recommended to allow for inaccuracies. If an error is greater than 3.75%, a change to the transmission drive/driven gear selection, tire size, or tire inflation may need attention. The odometer should be checked again to verify any corrective action. If the indicated speed error exceeds 10% between 50 MPH and 60 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h), replace the speedometer/odometer assembly. Vehicles with transfer cases that have fluctuating readings may be due to slippage of drive gears, parts not splined or loose yoke nuts.

If the vehicle has speed control, the speed accuracy can be checked using the verified odometer vs. time. The formula is as follows:
3600 divded by TIME (seconds to cover one mile) = TRUE MPH(Km/h)

EXAMPLES:
60 MPH (96 Km/h) requires 60 seconds to cover one mile
55 MPH (88 Km/h) requires 65 and 3/4 seconds to cover one mile
50 MPH (80 Km/h) requires 72 seconds to cover one mile

SUPERSEDES: 84-14-06
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
________________________________________________________________
7-tooth drive gear E7TZ17285B
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92 Vacuum Cruise 4.9L

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92 Cruise V8

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92 Cruise Diesel

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Electronic Cruise Circuit '93-04
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly uses a servo motor working through a magnetic clutch to move the throttle through the Actuator cable. Diesel trucks from '94.5-up have no servo - the speed control function is integrated into the PCM.

The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (located in the Instrument Cluster) sends a speed signal to the input of the Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly through the 679 (GY/BK) wire. This signal tells the Amplifier the vehicle's current speed.

To operate the Speed Control System, the ignition switch must be in RUN and vehicle speed must be greater than 30 mph (R/LB & Gy/Bk greater than ~67Hz). The System is turned on by pressing the Speed Control Switch ON. Do not activate the speed control with the transmission, transaxle, or transfer case in NEUTRAL. This could result in the engine over-revving.

Pressing and releasing SET/ACCEL or COAST sends a command to the Speed Control Amplifier. If the system is on but not active, this command makes the vehicle's current speed the set speed.

Pressing and holding SET/ACCEL (LB/Bk ~680ohms to DG/Or) while the system is on and active increases the vehicle's speed as long as SET/ACCEL is depressed. Releasing SET/ACCEL gives the System a new set speed to maintain. Vehicle speed may also be increased by depressing the accelerator until the higher speed is reached, then depressing and releasing SET/ACCEL. Tapping SET/ACCEL while the system is on and active increases set speed by 1mph (1.6kph) per tap.

Pressing and holding COAST (LB/Bk ~120ohms to DG/Or) while the system is on and active decreases the vehicle's speed as long as COAST is depressed. Releasing COAST gives the system a new set speed to maintain. Tapping COAST while the system is on and active reduces set speed by 1mph (1.6kph) per tap down to a minimum of ~30mph.

Pressing OFF turns off the System (LB/Bk shorted to DG/Or). The System is also turned off when the Ignition Switch is turned OFF (Wh/Pu NOT POWERED).

Depressing the brake pedal (Tn/LB greater than 9V to R/LB) cancels the speed controls. The Deactivator Switch also operates (R/LG less than 9V to R/LB) when the brake pedal is depressed. This is a backup device that releases the servo and cancels the system. In vehicles with manual transaxle, the Clutch Switch opens (Tn/LB greater than 5ohms to R/LB) when the clutch pedal is depressed and cancels the system.

When the System has been cancelled by depressing the brake (Tn/LB greater than 9V) or clutch pedal (Tn/LB greater than 5ohms to R/LB), the last set speed may be resumed by pressing RESUME (LB/Bk ~2200ohms to DG/Or). RESUME will not work if OFF has been depressed or with car speed below ~30 mph or if the key has been cycled to OFF since the last system activation.

The cruise servo pins are:
1 - Or/LB - Cruise Set Indicator Lamp Ground Output for 12V incandescent '96 Taurus (or SCP pos)
2 - UNUSED (or SCP neg)
3 - Gy/Bk - VSS input
4 - Tn/LB - BOO & CPP input
5 - LB/Bk - Control Switch Input
6 - Bk - Control Switch Discrete Ground (may not connect to any other circuit)
7 - Wh/Pu - Switched Power
8 - UNUSED
9 - R/LG - Servo Clutch Power (SCCDS) Input
10 - Bk - Ground
NOTE that some diagrams label the pins in reverse, so observe wire colors.

Visual inspection is an important part of diagnosis. When performing visual inspection, check all items for abnormal conditions. Look for such items as bare, broken or disconnected wires. For the speed control to function properly, the servo (throttle actuator) and throttle linkage should operate freely and smoothly. Any concerns found by the visual inspection should be corrected before further tests of the speed control system are made. The following items should be inspected.
- If the amber RABS indicator in the instrument cluster stays lit when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, then refer to servicing the rear anti-lock brake system before continuing with the speed control diagnostics.
- Does the horn work? If not, check the horn circuit fuse, horn relay and horn circuit wiring.
- Do the stoplamps light when the brake pedal is depressed? If not, check the stoplamp circuit fuse, stoplamps, wiring and stoplamp switch.
- Look for loose or unseated speed control servo connector pins.
- Check for broken wires at the connectors.
- Check for speed control servo cable adjustment.
- Check for broken or bound speed control servo cable.

SPEED CONTROL DIAGNOSTICS, GASOLINE ENGINES
Condition: Possible Sources;
Action

Speed Control Inoperative: Blown fuse; Circuitry; Stoplight switch/bulbs; Speed control actuator switch assembly; Deactivator switch; Speed control servo.
GO to Pinpoint Test A .

Set Speed Fluctuates: Programmable Speedometer/Odometer; Speed control servo; Speed control actuator switch assembly; Circuitry; Loose fit or binding between speed control actuator cable and throttle body.
GO to Pinpoint Test B .

Set Speed Fluctuates: Engine.
REFER to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual OBDI or OBDII. SERVICE engine as required.

Speed Control Does Not Disengage When Brakes Are Applied: Stoplight switch; Speed control servo; Circuitry; Deactivator switch; Binding actuator cable.
GO to Pinpoint Test C .

Speed Control Does Not Disengage When Clutch Is Applied: Circuitry; Clutch Switch.
GO to Pinpoint Test D .

COAST Switch Inoperative: Speed control actuator switch; Speed control servo; Circuitry.
GO to Pinpoint Test E .

SET/ACCEL Switch Inoperative: Speed control actuator switches; Speed control servo; Circuitry.
GO to Pinpoint Test F .

RESUME Switch Inoperative: Speed control actuator switch; Speed control servo; Circuitry.
GO to Pinpoint Test G .

OFF Switch Inoperative: Speed control actuator switch; Speed control servo; Circuitry.
GO to Pinpoint Test H .

Pinpoint Tests
NOTE: For 7.3L DI diesel speed control diagnosis, refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual OBDI or OBDII .


PINPOINT TESTS
To avoid connector terminal damage, always use test probe adapters. Failure to comply may result in spread terminals and intermittent speed control operations.

PINPOINT TEST A: SPEED CONTROL INOPERATIVE
A1 VERIFY THERE IS POWER TO SPEED CONTROL SERVO
Disconnect harness connector from the speed control servo.
Use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent to make the specified measurements at the harness connector.
Use Rotunda Terminal Adapter Kit No. 105-R025A to avoid connector terminal damage.
Key to RUN.
Measure voltage between Pin 7 (B , Circuit 298 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes GO to A3 .
No GO to A2 .

A2 CHECK MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
Key off.
Measure the resistance between Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901) and ground point on the chassis.
Is resistance less than 5 ohm?
Yes GND is OK. Power to Module may be open. CHECK fuse 5 in Power Distribution Box and Circuit 298. TEST for normal operation. GO to A3
No REPAIR open in ground Circuit 901. TEST for normal operation.

A3 CHECK FOR STUCK STOPLIGHT SWITCH
With no brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is the battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes Stoplight switch is stuck on. REPLACE stoplight switch.
No Stoplight switch is not stuck on. GO to A4 .

A4 CHECK BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT GROUND
Key off.
Measure the resistance between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 20 ohms?
Yes Brake/Clutch input circuit OK. GO to A5 .
No Brake light bulbs blown or brake/clutch circuit open. SERVICE circuit including clutch pedal position switch.

A5 CHECK DEACTIVATOR CIRCUIT (AT MODULE CONNECTOR)
Key off, no brakes applied.
Measure the voltage between Pin 9 (DEACT, Circuit 307) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes GO to A9 .
No No power from deactivator. GO to A6 .

A6 CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH (AT SWITCH)
Remove body harness connector from deactivator switch.
Measure the resistance between the two pins of the deactivator switch with no brakes applied.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes Deactivator switch OK. GO to A7 .
No Deactivator switch defective. REPLACE switch. REPEAT Step A5 .

A7 VERIFY THERE IS POWER AT DEACTIVATOR HARNESS CONNECTOR
Measure voltage between Pin 1 (Circuit 10) of the deactivator switch harness connector and chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes Power at connector OK. GO to A8 .
No SERVICE for blown fuse or open in deactivator switch circuit.

A8 CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT BETWEEN DEACTIVATOR SWITCH AND SERVO
Measure resistance from Pin 2 (Circuit 307) of deactivator switch and Pin 9 (DEACT, Circuit 307) of service assembly of speed control servo.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes CHECK for bent or corroded pins on deactivator switch and harness connector. SERVICE as required. REPEAT Step A5 . If connections are serviceable, GO to A9 .
No Open in wire harness. SERVICE as required.

A9 CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
Key off.
With no steering wheel switches depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ).
Is resistance greater than 3k ohms?
Yes No stuck switches. GO to A10 .
No One of the command switches is stuck. REPLACE switch.

A10 CHECK ON SWITCH OPERATION
Key off.
With steering wheel ON switch depressed, measure voltage between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes ON switch OK. GO to A12 .
No ON switch not functioning. GO to A11 .

A11 CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT IN "ON" SWITCH GROUND
With horn depressed, measure voltage between Pin 6 (Circuit 848 ) and chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes Open circuit between Pin 5 and command switches or inoperative switches. SERVICE as required.
No Open circuit or fuse in horn relay feed or open circuit in switch ground. SERVICE as required. REPEAT Step A10 .

A12 CHECK SET/ACCEL SWITCH OPERATION
Key off.
With the SET/ACCEL switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ).
Is resistance approximately 680 (640-720) ohms?
Yes Switch is OK. GO to A13 .
No Switch not functioning. REPLACE switch.

A13 CHECK FOR SHORT IN COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
Measure resistance between Pin 6 (Circuit 848 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes SERVICE short in Circuit 848.
No Return circuit OK. GO to A14 .

A14 VERIFY SPEED SIGNAL
Operate vehicle by raising the rear wheels. Set speed at 30 mph. Use an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage between Pin 3 (SPEED SIG, Circuit 679) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is voltage reading 4-5 volts?
Yes Speed signal OK. GO to A15 .
No SERVICE Programmable Speedometer/Odometer. GO to Section 13-01 .

A15 CHECK FOR BROKEN OR BOUND ACTUATOR CABLE
Remove speed control actuator cable from speed control servo. Check for broken speed control actuator by pulling on speed control actuator and noting throttle movement.
Is speed control actuator OK?
Yes REPLACE speed control servo.
No SERVICE speed control actuator cable.

PINPOINT TEST B: SET SPEED FLUCTUATES
B1 CHECK THAT CONDITION OCCURS ONLY WHILE USING SPEED CONTROL
Drive vehicle at the speed in which the condition occurs.
Does the speedometer needle waiver by more than ± 2 mph?
Yes Bad Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module, RABS speed sensor, or rear axle ring gear. SERVICE as necessary.
No GO to B2 .

B2 CHECK PROGRAMMABLE SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER MODULE OUTPUT SIGNAL
Check PSOM output signal.
Did PSOM pass output signal test?
Yes GO to B3 .
No SERVICE as required.

B3 CHECK FOR BINDING IN SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR CABLE AND THROTTLE BODY LINKAGE
Check for binding or sticking of speed control cable or throttle linkage and throttle plate.
Make sure throttle cable bracket and speed control servo bracket are not loose.
Are components OK?
Yes REPLACE speed control servo and VERIFY condition is corrected.
No SERVICE as required.

PINPOINT TEST C: SPEED CONTROL DOES NOT DISENGAGE WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED
C1 CHECK FOR BINDS IN SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR/THROTTLE BODY ATTACHMENT
Disconnect 10-way connector from speed control servo.
Check for binding of speed control actuator cable.
Is speed control actuator cable OK?
Yes GO to C2 .
No SERVICE as required.

C2 CHECK BRAKE SWITCH OPERATION
With brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes REPLACE speed control servo.
No Switch not functioning. REPLACE or SERVICE.

PINPOINT TEST D: SPEED CONTROL DOES NOT DISENGAGE WHEN CLUTCH IS APPLIED
D1 CHECK CLUTCH CIRCUIT
Key off.
Measure the resistance between Pin 4 (Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 20 ohms?
Yes Clutch input circuit OK. GO to D2 .
No Clutch circuit open. SERVICE circuit including clutch pedal position switch.

D2 CHECK CLUTCH OPERATION
With clutch pedal applied, measure the voltage between Pin 4 (Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes REPLACE speed control servo.
No Switch not functioning. REPLACE or SERVICE.

PINPOINT TEST E: COAST SWITCH INOPERATIVE
E1 CHECK COAST SWITCH OPERATION
Disconnect 10-way connector from speed control servo.
Key off.
With COAST switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) while rotating steering wheel through full range.
Is resistance approximately 120 (114-126) ohms?
Yes COAST switch OK. GO to E2 .
No REPLACE switch.

E2 CHECK COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
Measure the resistance between Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes Switch return is incorrectly grounded. SERVICE as required.
No REPLACE speed control servo.

PINPOINT TEST F: SET/ACCL SWITCH INOPERATIVE
F1 CHECK SET/ACCL SWITCH OPERATION
Disconnect 10-way connector from speed control servo.
Key off.
With SET/ACCL switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) while rotating steering wheel through full range.
Is resistance approximately 680 (646-714) ohms?
Yes SET/ACCL OK. GO to F2 .
No REPLACE switch.

F2 CHECK COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
Measure the resistance between Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes Speed control actuator switch return is incorrectly grounded. SERVICE as required.
No REPLACE speed control servo assembly.

PINPOINT TEST G: RESUME SWITCH INOPERATIVE
G1 CHECK RESUME SWITCH OPERATION
Disconnect 10-way connector from speed control servo.
Key off.
With RESUME switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) while rotating steering wheel through full range.
Is resistance approximately 2200 (2090-2310) ohms?
Yes RESUME OK. GO to G2 .
No REPLACE switch.

G2 CHECK COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
Measure the resistance between Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes Switch return is incorrectly grounded.
No SERVICE as required. REPLACE speed control servo.

PINPOINT TEST H: OFF SWITCH INOPERATIVE
H1 CHECK OFF SWITCH OPERATION
Disconnect 10-way connector from speed control servo.
Key off.
With OFF switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ) while rotating steering wheel through full range.
Is resistance less than 4 ohms?
Yes REPLACE speed control servo.
No OFF switch not functioning. REPLACE switch.

See also:
. . . . .

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'93 Cruise Control System (Electronic Servo)

Cable Adjustment
1. Remove cable retaining clip (9D726) from actuator cable at accelerator shaft bracket (9728 ).
2. Set throttle plate to closed position.
3. Pull on the actuator cable (away from the clip, toward the servo) to take up any slack. Back off at least one notch so that there is 1mm (.040 inch) of slack in the cable. The cable must not be pulled tight for proper operation.
4. While holding the cable, insert the retaining clip and snap securely.



The only difference between '93 and '94-96 is that the SCCDS was moved to the front of the master cylinder, which resulted in some fires & a massive ongoing recall.

. . . .

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Cruise Control Diagnostics for '93-up electronic servo system
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


Before checking any of the items in this chart, read this FSA:



The Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly uses a servo motor working through a magnetic clutch to move the throttle through the Actuator cable.

The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (located in the Instrument Cluster) sends a speed signal to the input of the Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly through the 679 (GY/BK) wire. This signal tells the Amplifier the vehicle's current speed.

To operate the Speed Control System, the ignition switch must be in RUN and vehicle speed must be greater than 30 mph (servo pins 10 & 3 greater than ~67Hz). The System is turned on by pressing the Speed Control Switch ON. Do not activate the speed control with the transmission, transaxle, or transfer case in NEUTRAL. This could result in the engine over-revving.

Pressing and releasing SET/ACCEL or COAST sends a command to the Speed Control Amplifier. If the system is on but not active, this command makes the vehicle's current speed the set speed.

Pressing and holding SET/ACCEL (servo pin 5 ~680ohms to pin 6) while the system is on and active increases the vehicle's speed as long as SET/ACCEL is depressed. Releasing SET/ACCEL gives the System a new set speed to maintain. Vehicle speed may also be increased by depressing the accelerator until the higher speed is reached, then depressing and releasing SET/ACCEL. Tapping SET/ACCEL while the system is on and active increases set speed by 1mph (1.6kph) per tap.

This 1-MPH-per-press feature is unique to Ford speed control systems. It allows speed to be precisely adjusted without drawing the operator's eyes away from the road. If cruise is set at 55, and the speed limit or traffic increases to 65, the operator can simply tap SET/ACCEL 10 times withOUT taking his eyes off the road, and the system will smoothly accelerate to 65 and hold. The same works for reducing the set speed.

Pressing and holding COAST (servo pin 5 ~120ohms to pin 6) while the system is on and active decreases the vehicle's speed as long as COAST is depressed. Releasing COAST gives the system a new set speed to maintain. Tapping COAST while the system is on and active reduces set speed by 1mph (1.6kph) per tap down to a minimum of 30mph.

Pressing OFF turns off the System (servo pin 5 shorted to pin 6). The System is also turned off when the Ignition Switch is turned OFF (servo pin 7 NOT POWERED). Depressing the brake pedal (servo pin 4 greater than 9V) cancels the speed controls. The Deactivator Switch also operates (servo pin 9 less than 9V) when the brake pedal is depressed. This is a backup device that releases the servo. In vehicles with manual transaxle, the Clutch Switch opens (servo pin 4 greater than 5ohms to GROUND) when the clutch pedal is depressed and cancels the System.

When the System has been cancelled by depressing the brake (servo pin 4 greater than 9V) or clutch pedal (servo pin 4 greater than 5ohms to GROUND), the last set speed may be resumed by pressing RESUME (servo pin 5 ~2200ohms to pin 6). RESUME will not work if OFF has been depressed or with car speed below 30 mph or if the key has been cycled to OFF since the last system activation.

The cruise servo pins are:
1 - Cruise Set Indicator Lamp Ground Output for 12V incandescent (or SCP pos)
2 - UNUSED (or SCP neg)
3 - Gy/Bk - VSS input
4 - LG - BOO & CPP input
5 - LB/Bk - Control Switch Input
6 - Bk - Control Switch Discrete Ground (may not connect to any other circuit)
7 - Wh/Pu - Switched Power
8 - UNUSED
9 - R/LG - Servo Clutch Power (SCCDS) Input
10 - Bk - Ground

Visual inspection is an important part of diagnosis. When performing visual inspection, check all items for abnormal conditions. Look for such items as bare, broken or disconnected wires. For the speed control to function properly, the servo (throttle actuator) and throttle linkage should operate freely and smoothly. Any concerns found by the visual inspection should be corrected before further tests of the speed control system are made. The following items should be inspected.
- If the amber RABS indicator in the instrument cluster stays lit when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, then refer to servicing the rear anti-lock brake system before continuing with the speed control diagnostics.
- Does the horn work? If not, check the horn circuit fuse, horn relay and horn circuit wiring.
- Do the stoplamps light when the brake pedal is depressed? If not, check the stoplamp circuit fuse, stoplamps, wiring and stoplamp switch.
- Look for loose or unseated speed control servo connector pins.
- Check for broken wires at the connectors.
- Check for speed control servo cable adjustment.
- Check for broken or bound speed control servo cable.

DIAGNOSTIC STEP DESCRIPTIONS: (details at this link)
A1: VERIFY THERE IS POWER TO SERVO
A2: CHECK FOR STUCK BRAKE SWITCH
A3: CHECK BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT
A4: CHECK DEACTIVATOR CIRCUIT
A5: CHECK FOR STUCK ON SWITCH
A6: CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH CIRCUIT
A7: CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
A8: CHECK SET/ACCEL SWITCH OPERATION
A9: VERIFY SPEED SIGNAL
A10: CHECK FOR BROKEN OR BOUND ACTUATOR CABLE
B1: MAKE SURE STEP A3 HAS BEEN DONE
B2: CHECK IGNITION CIRCUIT
B3: CHECK MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
C1: MAKE SURE STEP A4 HAS BEEN DONE
C2: VERIFY POWER AT DEACTIVATOR SWITCH HARNESS CONNECTOR
C3: CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT BETWEEN DEACTIVATOR SWITCH AND SPEED CONTROL SERVO
D1: CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT IN SWITCH GROUND
E1: CHECK FOR BINDING IN ACTUATOR CABLE/THROTTLE BODY LINKAGE
F1: CHECK "COAST" SWITCH OPERATION
F2: CHECK COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
G1: SETUP
G2: CHECK "ACCEL/TAP-UP" SWITCH OPERATION
G3: CHECK COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
H1: SETUP
H2: CHECK RESUME SWITCH OPERATION
H3: CHECK COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
J1: SETUP
J2: CHECK FOR BINDS IN ACTUATOR CABLE/THROTTLE BODY ATTACHMENT
J3: CHECK BRAKE SWITCH OPERATION
K1: SETUP
K2: CHECK OFF SWITCH OPERATION

This is the servo for this system:
.

This is a disassembled clock spring:



____________________________________________________
For vehicles with a "CRUISE" indicator lamp, this procedure may reveal fault codes:

Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

Note:
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

-- 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

-- 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.

-- 4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective

4. Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
____________________________________________________
For vacuum cruise troubleshooting ('92-back F-series & Bronco), see this:


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Cruise Servo 1993-03 (7.5L F450 shown; others similar)

.

Cable Adjustment
1. Remove cable retaining clip (9D726) from actuator cable at accelerator shaft bracket (9728 ).
2. Set throttle plate to closed position.
3. Pull on the actuator cable (away from the clip, toward the servo) to take up any slack. Back off at least one notch so that there is 1mm (.040 inch) of slack in the cable. The cable must not be pulled tight for proper operation.
4. While holding the cable, insert the retaining clip and snap securely.

.

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'80-86 Truck Steering Columns ('87-91 similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The steering wheel, the bracket/tray 3676, and the intermediate shaft & rag joint (3B676) are the differences for '87-91. For '92-up columns, see this:



For tilt ignition actuators, see:


. .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 95-23-12 Non-Tilt Key Hard to Turn in Cold

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 20, 1995

LIGHT TRUCK: 1988-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1988-95 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The ignition key may be hard to turn in cold temperatures on trucks equipped with fixed (non-tilt) steering columns. This occurs because the column lock actuator may not be properly lubricated.

ACTION: Lubricate the column lock actuator with silicone lubricant. Refer to the following procedures for service details.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the steering wheel. Refer to the appropriate model year Bronco, Econoline, F-Series Service Manual, Section 13-06 for 1988-90 models and Section 11-04A for 1991 models. Refer to the 1991 F-FT-B 600, 700, 800 Service Manual, Section 13-06 and Section 11-04A for 1992-95 F & B Series vehicles.
3. Remove the two (2) bolts attaching the steering column support brackets to the pedal support bracket.
4. Mark the location of the ignition switch and remove it.
5. Remove the turn signal lever and turn signal switch.
6. Remove the lock cylinder.
7. Remove and throw away the snap ring from the upper steering shaft.
8. Using a light hammer, gently tap the steering shaft until the upper bearing is loose. Remove the upper bearing.
9. Loosen the upper flange retention nuts until one or two threads remain engaged.
a. Pinch the nuts toward the shaft.
b. Remove the upper flange from the outer tube.
10. Remove the column lock actuator.

INSTALLATION
1. Clean the grease from the column lock actuator and upper flange using parts cleaner (F3AZ-19579-SA) or equivalent.
2. Apply silicone lubricant (COAZ-19553-AA) or equivalent to the column lock actuator and upper flange where the actuator slides.
3. Install the column lock actuator into the upper flange.
4. Install the upper flange onto the outer flange.
5. Install the steering wheel onto the steering shaft and hand tighten the steering wheel nut.
6. Pull up on the steering wheel until the steering column expands about 10mm (0.375").
7. Remove the steering wheel.
8. Press the upper bearing onto the steering shaft.
9. Install a new snap ring (DOAZ-3C610-B) on the steering shaft.
10. Using a small hammer, gently tap the steering shaft until the upper bearing is seated into the upper flange.
11. Install the lock cylinder.
12. Install the turn signal switch and turn signal lever.
13. Install the ignition switch.
14. Install the two (2) bolts attaching the steering wheel bracket to the pedal bracket.
15. Install the steering wheel.
16. Connect the battery ground cable.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
COAZ-19553-AA Silicone Lubricant
F3AZ-19579-SA Metal Brake Parts Cleaner
DOAZ-3C610-B Snap Ring

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 91-6-5
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
952312A Lubricate Actuator 0.7 Hr.

Ig.Sw. Recall

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'80-91 Tilt Column Exploded

Replacing the actuators is a PITA, even though the parts are cheap & easy-to-find at parts stores for ~$20ea. Call your local used car lots & independent repair shops for the number of a local steering column specialist. If he'll rebuild the column for less than $300, pay him.
Upper Ignition Actuator Ford D1AZ3E723C
Lower Ignition Actuator Ford E9TZ3E715B, Dorman HELP 83280

See also:
. . .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 95-23-12 Non-Tilt Key Hard to Turn in Cold

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 20, 1995

LIGHT TRUCK: 1988-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1988-95 F & B SERIES

ISSUE: The ignition key may be hard to turn in cold temperatures on trucks equipped with fixed (non-tilt) steering columns. This occurs because the column lock actuator may not be properly lubricated.

ACTION: Lubricate the column lock actuator with silicone lubricant. Refer to the following procedures for service details.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the steering wheel. Refer to the appropriate model year Bronco, Econoline, F-Series Service Manual, Section 13-06 for 1988-90 models and Section 11-04A for 1991 models. Refer to the 1991 F-FT-B 600, 700, 800 Service Manual, Section 13-06 and Section 11-04A for 1992-95 F & B Series vehicles.
3. Remove the two (2) bolts attaching the steering column support brackets to the pedal support bracket.
4. Mark the location of the ignition switch and remove it.
5. Remove the turn signal lever and turn signal switch.
6. Remove the lock cylinder.
7. Remove and throw away the snap ring from the upper steering shaft.
8. Using a light hammer, gently tap the steering shaft until the upper bearing is loose. Remove the upper bearing.
9. Loosen the upper flange retention nuts until one or two threads remain engaged.
a. Pinch the nuts toward the shaft.
b. Remove the upper flange from the outer tube.
10. Remove the column lock actuator.

INSTALLATION
1. Clean the grease from the column lock actuator and upper flange using parts cleaner (F3AZ-19579-SA) or equivalent.
2. Apply silicone lubricant (COAZ-19553-AA) or equivalent to the column lock actuator and upper flange where the actuator slides.
3. Install the column lock actuator into the upper flange.
4. Install the upper flange onto the outer flange.
5. Install the steering wheel onto the steering shaft and hand tighten the steering wheel nut.
6. Pull up on the steering wheel until the steering column expands about 10mm (0.375").
7. Remove the steering wheel.
8. Press the upper bearing onto the steering shaft.
9. Install a new snap ring (DOAZ-3C610-B) on the steering shaft.
10. Using a small hammer, gently tap the steering shaft until the upper bearing is seated into the upper flange.
11. Install the lock cylinder.
12. Install the turn signal switch and turn signal lever.
13. Install the ignition switch.
14. Install the two (2) bolts attaching the steering wheel bracket to the pedal bracket.
15. Install the steering wheel.
16. Connect the battery ground cable.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
COAZ-19553-AA Silicone Lubricant
F3AZ-19579-SA Metal Brake Parts Cleaner
DOAZ-3C610-B Snap Ring

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 91-6-5
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
952312A Lubricate Actuator 0.7 Hr.

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'80-86 Dash

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'80-86 Dash Wiring Harness

The "Option Connectors" are where the courtesy lights & clock are added.


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'90 Dash Connectors & Components
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'92-93 Horn Circuit w/Cruise Control

'94-96 is essentially the same, except the "sliding contact" is replaced by the airbag clock spring. In '93-96, the horn switch ground is inside the cruise servo (if equipped), or the cruise jumper.

'80-91 uses a 3-terminal horn relay mounted on or near the cruise module under the dash.

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Shift Cable Adjustment
BEFORE BEGINNING, inspect items #26, 27, 28, & 34 in this diagram for looseness:
.

CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than D (drive) for the C6 transmission (7003) or (D) (overdrive) for the E4OD transmission.

1. From inside the vehicle, place the transmission range selector lever in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (4R70W and E4OD). Hang an improvised three-pound weight (#1) on the transmission range selector lever (#2).

2. Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
3. Remove the shift cable (#5) from the transmission lever ball stud.
4. Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.
5. Position the transmission range selector lever (#2) in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.
6. Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.
7. Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.
8. Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the transmission range selector lever.
9. After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the transmission range selector lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure correct detent/transmission actions. Readjust if necessary.

Shift Indicator Cable adjustment

1. Remove the four screws from the lower steering column shroud. Remove the lower steering column shroud.
2. Rotate transmission range selector lever clockwise until it bottoms out in first gear.
3. Rotate transmission range selector lever counterclockwise three detents (overdrive position).
4. Hang a three pound weight on the transmission range selector lever.
5. Center pointer in the middle of D if equipped with C6 transmission, or (D) if equipped with E4OD transmission, by rotating the thumbwheel located on right-hand side of steering column actuator housing.
. Ford F5TZ-7A110-AA shift indicator '92-96 w/E4OD

See also:
. .

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'92-96 Steering Column
This is a mixed-up diagram because it shows a horn pad on a '92-93 wheel, but it also shows a '94-96 clock spring for an airbag.

Non-tilt columns are identical, other than NOT having the tilt handle (13K359/3D544) installed, and having the lock mechanism (3B661/3D653) pinned.

7A214 & 7G550 Bezel & TCIL/TCS

See also:


For complete teardown, reassembly, & installation, see:


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'94-up Steering Column w/Airbag

For more info, see this album:
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/6098/31472-4

See also:

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'92-up Steering Column

For more info, see this album:
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/6098/31472-4



1 Driver Side Air Bag Module 043B13 ('94-96 trucks under 8500GVWR)
2 Steering Wheel Pad Horn Switch 13A80 ('92-93 & '94-97 over 8500GVWR)
- Steering Wheel Switch F4TZ9C888BA, SW5890 ('92-96 & '97 >8500GVWR w/cruise)
- Steering Wheel Horn Switch F0DZ13A805AK & -BK ('92-96 & '97 >8500GVWR w/o cruise)
3 Steering Wheel Bolt N804385-S100
4 Steering Wheel 3600
5 Air Bag Module Retaining Nuts 621903
6 Screw 390345-S36
7 Air Bag Sliding Contact (Clock Spring) 14A664
8 Turn Indicator Cancel Cam 13318
9 Bearing Retainer 3C610
10 Steering Column Upper Shroud 3530
11 Steering Column Upper Bearing Spring 3520
12 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve 3518
13 Steering Column Bearing Tolerance Ring 3L539
14 Steering Column Bearing 3517
15 Shroud Retaining Screws 55929-S2
16 Multi-Function Switch (MFS) 13K359
17 Screw 390345-S36
18 Steering Column Lock Actuator Lever Pin N805857
19 Column Shift Selector Lever Plunger 7361 (Automatic Only)
20 Tilt Wheel Handle and Shank 3F609
21 Steering Column Release Lever 3D544
22 Gearshift Lever 7210 (Automatic Only)
23 Gearshift Selector Tube Spring 7379 (Automatic Only)
24 Gearshift Lever Pin 7G357 (Automatic Only)
25 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 7212 (Automatic Only)
26 Screws N806584 (Automatic Only)
27 Gearshift Tube Bushing Clamp 7E400 (Automatic Only)
28 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 7335 (Automatic Only)
29 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 7A216 (Automatic Only)
30 Screw N806584 (Automatic Only)
31 Shift Lock Actuator 3Z719 (Automatic Only)
32 Shift Cable and Bracket 7E395 (Automatic Only)
33 Transmission Selector Lever Arm and Support 7302 (Automatic Only)
34 Screws N806584
35 Gearshift Lever Interlock Pawl (Automatic Only)
36 Interlock Pawl Pin 7W441 (Automatic Only)
37 Transmission Control Selector Lever Spring Clip 7C464 (Automatic Only)
38 Wiring Shield 14A099 (Automatic Only)
39 Pivot Bolts N806582
40 Steering Column Lock Pawl 3E691
41 Steering Column Instrument Panel Bracket 3676
42 Steering Column Lower Bearing Retainer 3D681
43 Screws N806583
44 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve 3518
45 Steering Column Bearing Tolerance Ring 3L539
46 Steering Column Upper Bearing Spring 3520
47 Steering Angle Sensor Control Ring 3C131
48 Steering Column Bearing 3517
49 Lower Bearing Housing Retaining Screws N806583-S36
50 Lower Column Mounting Nuts N806423
51 Wiring Harness Retainer 14A163
52 Lower Column Mounting Nuts N806423
53 Steering Actuator Housing 3F723
54 Steering Column Lock Lever Pin 3B663
55 Screw (Torx Head) N806584-S36
56 Ignition Switch 11572
57 Steering Column Position Spring 3D655
58 Steering Shaft Assembly 3524
59 Steering Column Lock N805856
60 Steering Column Lock Left Hand Lever 3D653
61 Steering Column Lock Lever Actuator 3E715
62 Steering Column Lock Spring 3E696
63 Steering Column Lock Pawl 3E691
64 Steering Column Lock Lever Actuator 3E715
65 Steering Column Lock Cam 3E695
66 Wiring Harness Retainer 14A163
67 Steering Column Tilt Flange Bumper 3D656
68 Steering Column Position Lock Spring 3B768
69 Steering Column Shroud Screw 55929-S2
70 Steering Column Lower Shroud 3530
71 Steering Column Lock Cylinder Housing 3511
72 Steering Column Lock Housing Bearing 3E700
73 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder 11582
74 Bearing Retainer 3C610
75 Steering Column Lock Gear 3E717
76 Screw 390345-S2
77 Wiring Harness Retainer 14A163
78 Speed Control Brush 9C899
79 Steering Column Lock Actuator Lever Pin 3F530
80 Key Release Lever Spring 3F532
81 Steering Column Key Release Lever 3F527
82 Steering Column Lock Actuator Cover 3E745

See also:

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'95 Steering Column Wiring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 14401 Wiring Assembly
2 -- Wiring Locator, Locate in Hole Provided (Part of 14401)
3 -- To E4OD Pigtail
4 -- E4OD Pigtail (Part of 14401)
5 3514 Steering Column Assembly
6 9C899 Pigtail
14A664 Pigtail (with Air Bag)
7 15572 Ignition Switch
8 -- Bolt (Part of 9C899)
9 13K359 Turn Signal and Windshield Wiper Switch
10 390345-S36 Fastener
11 -- To Multi-Function Switch
12 14A282 Air Bag Delete Cap
13 -- Air Bag Wiring (See View D for Air Bag Delete) (Part of 14A664)
14 -- To Brake Shift Interlock
15 -- To Air Bag
16 -- To 9C899 Brush Assembly (Without Air Bag) to 14A664 Clockspring (with Air Bag)
17 -- Wiring Retainers, Locate in Holes Provided (Part of 14401)
18 19A438 Switch Assembly, Anti-Theft Ignition Lock
19 N806584-S58 Screw
20 14A163 Wiring Retainer (Brake Shift Interlock Delete with Manual Transmission)
21 390345-S36 Screw, Anti-Theft Ground
22 14A664 Air Bag Sliding Contact
A -- Tighten to 1 N-m (9 Lb-In)
B -- Tighten to 8-10 N-m (71-89 Lb-In)

See also:
. .

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Clock Spring Removal.jpg | Hits: 10697 | Size: 40.57 KB | Posted on: 3/12/05 | Link to this image


Clock Spring

"Sliding contact" is a misnomer. The older horn contacts were sliding, but a more-stable connection was needed for airbags, which is why the clock spring was invented. It's a long ribbon of plastic with metal traces coiled like a clock spring that provides a wire-like path from the stationary steering column to the rotating steering wheel. Unfortunately, over a few years, the traces either wear through or crack, causing airbag, cruise control, horn, and radio malfunctions.

For more info, see this album:

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LockCyl10Cut.jpg | Hits: 6800 | Size: 49.37 KB | Posted on: 1/20/06 | Link to this image


10-Cut Key & Lock Cylinders

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.

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DashPad92-96.jpg | Hits: 7950 | Size: 40.44 KB | Posted on: 10/16/05 | Link to this image


'92-96 Dash Pad

.

See also:
. . . .

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Cluster&Bezel92-96.jpg | Hits: 16425 | Size: 95.19 KB | Posted on: 10/8/09 | Link to this image


Instrument Cluster & Bezel '92-96 (& '97 over 8500GVWR)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Be EXTREMELY careful unplugging the devices screwed to the back of the cluster bezel (ESOF switches, Bronco rear window switch, F-series tank switch or jumper plate, diesel warning lights). As old as these trucks are getting, the plastic bosses for the screws molded into the bezel are VERY brittle. It takes almost NO effort to shatter them, and they can't be repaired (although the devices can be re-mounted to the dash). Replacement bezels are becoming available (both Ford & aftermarket), but not with ESOF or defrost cutouts:

'92-93 no cutouts F2TZ-15044D70-A or aftermarket
'94-97 gas no cutouts F4TZ-15044D70-A or aftermarket
'94-97 gas ESOF no defrost F4TZ-15044D70-B
'94-97 diesel F4TZ-15044D70-C or aftermarket
'94-96 Bronco ESOF defrost F4TZ-98044D70-A

Removal:
1) Remove the headlight knob (3) and trim strips (4&5).

2) Remove 2 screws behind trim strips.
3) Pull bezel, unseating 3 clips along top edge & 4 below.
4) Disconnect fuel tank switch (F-series only), rear window switch (Bronco only), ESOF switch, &/or diesel warning lights as necessary.
5) Tilt steering wheel down and shift to 1 as necessary to withdraw bezel from instrument panel.

To repair the bezel, see this:


For everything else about the cluster, see:


See also:
. . . .

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Dash92-96.JPG | Hits: 16519 | Size: 70.14 KB | Posted on: 3/24/07 | Link to this image


Dash Exploded '92-96
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This shows a DISASSEMBLED dash; to REMOVE the dash, this is NOT necessary. In fact, one of the screws near the center of the dash is installed inside the air ducts, making it impossible to access before removing the dash assembly.

1 - A/C Side Window Demister and Hose (RH) 19E630
2 - A/C Accumulator Tube Support Clip 19B632
3 - A/C Side Window Demister and Hose (LH) 19E630
4 - A/C Registers 19893
5 - Glove Compartment Door Latch Cover 061A40
6 - Glove Compartment 06024
7 - Glove Compartment Bumpers 06115
8 - Glove Compartment Door Latch 106004
9 - Glove Compartment Bumpers N805979-S
10 - Lamp and Catch Assembly 5A563
11 - Pad and Retainer 04282
12 - Power Point 19N236
13 - Steering Column Opening Insulator 01657
14 - Instrument Panel 04320
15 - Duct and Support Assembly 19E726
16 - Defrost Seal Nozzle 18C367
17 - Connector 19E680
18 - Demister Seal 19C901
19 - A/C Seal 19C901
20 - Instrument Panel Center Bracket 047A32

See also:
. . . .

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CruiseVacPedals.jpg | Hits: 89 | Size: 104.9 KB | Posted on: 2/23/24 | Link to this image


'92 Vacuum Cruise Pedals Details
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . . . . . .

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DashConnectors93a.jpg | Hits: 12936 | Size: 72.26 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


'93 Bronco Dash Connectors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'92-96 Dash Removal
1) Remove the glove box (tilt, depress stops, pop hinge), knee bolster (2 7mm/T20 screws), upper (3 phillips) & lower (3 pushpins) A-pillar covers; remove the ground eyes from the green bolts and replace the bolts; unplug any dash connectors including the radio antenna
2) Remove the e-brake wire, then 3 11mm (7/16") nuts and lay the e-brake pedal on the floor; unplug the BOO
3) Remove the intermediate shaft bolt (13mm) from the u-joint, compress the shaft forward to disengage the u-joint, and replace the bolt
4) (Auto trans ONLY) Disconnect the shifter cable eye from the shifter arm, release the catch and slide the cable end out of the steering column bracket near the firewall; remove the shift indicator cable eye from the shifter peg and spin the adjuster wheel until the cable end can be pulled through, then replace the wheel on the cable end; unplug the TCS/TCIL connector & shift interlock solenoid connector (if present)
5) Remove the ignition lock cylinder (key in RUN, press pin thru small hole), tilt lever (unscrew by flats), 3 (or 4) column shroud screws, shrouds, back out ig.sw. connector bolt (8mm or 5/16"), two MFS screws (T15/20) and connectors, sliding contact or clock spring connector (ensure shorting bar makes contact on column side), 4 (or 5) 13mm nuts from the steering column mounts, lower & remove the column
6) Remove 4 15mm bolts from the steering column support to the cowl, 1 8mm (5/16") bolt from the support to the pedal bracket, an 8mm (5/16") bolt from each dash support bar above the tunnel and from the R end, the vacuum line connector behind the ash tray
7) Working through the glovebox opening, disconnect the temperature blend cable from the heater core housing
8 ) Remove 4 7mm/T20 screws across the top of the dash, and with an assistant, remove the dash assembly from the truck

See also:
.

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Dash94-96Components.JPG | Hits: 21748 | Size: 101.73 KB | Posted on: 3/24/07 | Link to this image


Dash Components '94-96 ('96 DLC not shown, near 24)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



To find something on this list, press CTRL F (Find) and type the name while watching the number of hits, and what becomes highlighted. Try other names if necessary.

1 - Takeout to Headlamp Switch (Part of 14401)
2 - Takeout to Fuse Box (Part of 14401)
3 - CB Retainer 14A282
4 - Screw N606678-S36
5 - Engine Control Sensor Wiring 12A581
6 - Connector to 14A504 (Part of 14401)
7 - Multi-Function Switch13K359
8 - Connector to Stoplamp Switch (Part of 14401)
9 - Clip
10 - E4OD Pigtail (Part of 14401)
11 - Connector to Park Lamp Signal Switch (Part of 14401)
12 - Rear Lamp Wiring 14405
13 - Takeout to Ignition Switch and Steering Column (Part of 14401)
14 - Connector to Clutch Interlock Switch (Part of 14401)
15 - Takeout to Remote Keyless Entry Module
16 - Connector to Warning Buzzer Chime (Part of 14401)
17 - Connector to Remote Keyless Entry Module
18 - Air Bag Diagnostic Module (ADM)
19 - Connector to Overspeed Warning (Part of 14401)
20 - Connector to Trailer Brake Connector (Part of 14401)
21 - Wiring Shield (2 Req'd) 14A099
22 - Vacuum Hose Clip
23 - Connector to Ash Receptacle Wiring (Part of 14401)
24 - Connector to PSOM Test Circuit (Part of 14401)
25 - Connector to 14A265 Wiring Assembly14A265
26 - Connector to 14B095 Wiring Assembly14B095
27 - Connector to 18A586 Wiring Assembly18A586
28 - Connector to Right Courtesy Lamp Switch (Part of 14401)
29 - Connector to Inertia Switch (Part of 14401)
30 - Takeout to Ground (Part of 14401)
31 - Connector to Clearance Lamp (Part of 14401)
32 - Connector to Wiper Control Module (Part of 14401)
33 - Rear Brake Anti-Lock Control Module F-SERIES ONLY
34 - Takeout to Glovebox Lamp (Part of 14401)
35 - Takeout to Brake Anti-Lock Module Test Circuit (Part of 14401)
36 - Takeout to Radio Antenna (Part of 14401)
37 - Takeout to Bowden Cable (Part fo 14401)
38 - Takeout to Cigar Lighter (Part of 14401)
39 - Takeout to Heater Mode Switch (Part of 14401)
40 - Takeout to A/C Illumination (Part of 14401)
41 - Connector to Radio (Part of 14401)
42 - Takeout to A/C Blower Switch (Part of 14401)
43 - Takeout to Power Point (Part of 14401)
44 - Connector to Premium Sound Amplifier (Part of 14401)
45 - Takeout to Shift on the Fly Switch (SOF) (Part of 14401)
46 - Takeout to Electric Defroster (Bronco) 14A262
47 - Main Wiring14401
48 - Take-Out to ESOF Switch, and Electric Defrost Switch (Part of 14401)
49 - Takeout to Cluster (Plug A) (Part of 14401)
50 - Takeout to PSOM (Part of 14401)
51 - Takeout to Cluster (Plug B) (Part of 14401)
52 - Cap 14B155-BA (Engr.No. E8TB-14A624-AB)
53 - Instrument Panel 04320
54 - Connector to Dual Fuel Tank Switch (Part of 14401)
55 - Connector to Rear Window Control Switch (Bronco) (Part of 14401)
56 - Demister Hose (Part of 04320)

See also:
.

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Modules.jpg | Hits: 77 | Size: 89.97 KB | Posted on: 3/8/24 | Link to this image


'94-96/7 Dash Modules
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
.

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AirbagCircuit96.JPG | Hits: 1107 | Size: 42.98 KB | Posted on: 8/17/22 | Link to this image


'94-96 Bronco/F-series (under 8500GVWR) Airbag Circuit & Codes
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The air bag diagnostic monitor (14B056) continually monitors all supplemental air bag restraint system components and wiring connections for possible faults in the system. If the air bag diagnostic monitor detects a fault in the supplemental air bag restraint system when the key is in RUN, a diagnostic trouble code will be displayed on the air bag indicator, located in the instrument cluster (10849). Performing system diagnostics is the main purpose of the air bag diagnostic monitor.

Note: The air bag diagnostic monitor does NOT deploy the air bag in the event of a crash.

The LH and RH primary crash sensors (attached to the core support behind the grille) are hard wired to the air bag; therefore, the LH and RH primary crash sensors and RH safing sensor (at the base of the RH B-pillar) determine when to deploy the air bag.

Features and functions of the air bag diagnostic monitor are described below.

* The air bag diagnostic monitor illuminates the air bag indicator for approximately six seconds when the key is in RUN and then turns the indicator off. This shows that the air bag indicator is operational. If the air bag indicator does not illuminate or the indicator stays on or flashes at any time, a fault has been detected by the air bag diagnostic monitor.
* Diagnostic trouble codes may not be displayed for approximately 30 seconds after the key is placed in RUN. This is the amount of time the air bag diagnostic monitor requires to perform all tests and verify system faults, if present.
* Each diagnostic trouble code (a series of flashes and pauses of the air bag indicator) represents a two-digit number. Each diagnostic trouble code is always displayed at least twice. For example, a diagnostic trouble code 32 is displayed as three flashes, followed by a one-second pause, then two flashes, followed by a three-second pause.
* If a system fault is present and the air bag indicator is malfunctioning (bulb burned or removed), an audible tone will be heard, indicating that system service is required. The tone is a series of five sets of five beeps. This does not indicate a diagnostic trouble code 55. If the tone is heard, the air bag indicator is inoperative and a system fault that requires service is present.

CAUTION: The thermal fuse does not blow (open) because of excessive current flowing through it. DO NOT attempt to jumper out the thermal fuse with a circuit breaker or any other type of fuse.
* If a fault exists that makes unwanted air bag deployment possible, the air bag diagnostic monitor has an internal thermal fuse that will blow (open) automatically. This removes all power to the air bag deployment circuit.



* The air bag indicator will flash the appropriate diagnostic trouble code to indicate the suspect circuit. If the indicator is malfunctioning the tone will be heard.
* Diagnostic trouble codes are prioritized numerically so if two or more different faults occur at the same time, the fault having the highest priority will be displayed first. After that fault has been corrected, the next highest priority fault will be displayed.
* The air bag diagnostic monitor includes an internal backup power supply. This feature provides sufficient backup power to deploy the air bag in the event the battery or battery cables are damaged in an accident before safing and primary crash sensors close. The backup power supply will deplete its stored energy approximately one minute after the positive battery cable is disconnected.

Airbag DIagnostic Monitor (ADM) Light Flash Code (LFC) Priority Table

Tone (5 Beeps Repeated 4 Times): Air Bag Indicator Open Circuit with Stored Fault Code(s)
No Air Bag Indicator (Dash Light Out): Inoperative Indicator Circuit or No Battery Voltage to ADM
Continuous Air Bag Indicator: ADM Disconnected or Inoperative
12: Low Battery Voltage
13: Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground
14: Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuit Shorted to Ground
21: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage
23: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24: Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Output Feed/Return Circuit Open
32: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34: Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41: RH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Feed/Return Circuit Open
42: LH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Feed/Return Circuit Open
44: RH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45: LH Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
51: ADM Internal Thermal Fuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to Ground
52: Backup Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault
53: Front Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Circuits Resistance to Ground or ADM Fault
Rapid Continuous Flashing (No Fault Code): All Primary Air Bag Sensors Disconnected

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
. . . .

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AirbagSensor.JPG | Hits: 6877 | Size: 71.8 KB | Posted on: 10/13/10 | Link to this image


Impact Sensor (typical)

The "sensing mass" is a large ball bearing (BB). If there's an impact strong enough to knock it loose from the magnet, it rolls forward and shorts across the contacts. Then the contacts immediately spring it back to the magnet. So it resets as fast as it triggers, every time.

See also:
. .

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WiringSymbols.GIF | Hits: 6073 | Size: 24.95 KB | Posted on: 3/26/11 | Link to this image


Wiring Diagram Symbols

CLICK THE IMAGE to make sure you have the original size before saving.

Here are some examples of what can be done with this symbol set & MSPaint:

. .

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Resistor ColorCodes.JPG | Hits: 7390 | Size: 52.14 KB | Posted on: 11/25/06 | Link to this image


Resistor Color Codes


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Wiring84.JPG | Hits: 26659 | Size: 67.6 KB | Posted on: 3/15/09 | Link to this image


Wiring Diagram for '84 Bronco & F-series (gas).
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Similar to '80-91 Bronco & F-series (gas).

See also:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

. .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

For '79 & similar trucks, see:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24302/78593-2

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Wiring92-95.JPG | Hits: 15123 | Size: 75.77 KB | Posted on: 10/13/10 | Link to this image


'92-95 F-series & Bronco Wiring (all '85-96 EFI trucks similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
. . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

For '79 & similar trucks, see:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24302/78593-2

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EECconnectors.JPG | Hits: 25603 | Size: 110.46 KB | Posted on: 10/20/11 | Link to this image


'85-96 Bronco & F150 (gasoline smallblock) EEC Pinouts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
ERROR: '95 pin 54 should say "WOT A/C Relay (CA 4.9L)", & '96 pin 69 should say "WOT A/C Relay (4.9L)"
For trucks under 8500GVWR: '85-93 EECs use a maximum of 49 pins; '94 uses 55 at most (adding 6 for sequential injectors & 1 for OSS, but losing PSP); '95 uses 57 at most (adding HEGO12 & WOTAC); '96 uses 65 at most (adding PTO, a ground pin, MD & return, HEGO21, & 3 HEGOV monitors).

'93-95 Lightnings use the '84-93 non-MAF pinout.

The '96 V8 "Customer Use" pin #4 (323 LB/Y) is for a PTO indicator light circuit to change EEC strategies & self-diagnostics for stationary hi-RPM use.
https://fordbbas.com/non-html/1997/c24_25_p.pdf
POWER TAKE-OFF CIRCUIT INSTALLATIONS REQUIRES:
1) VOLTAGE WHEN PTO IS OPERATING
2) VOLTAGE OFF WHEN PTO IS OFF, OR WHEN IGNITION IS OFF
3) PCM / PTO CIRCUIT MUST BE ELECTRICALLY ISOLATED FROM THE SOLENOID, OR PCM DAMAGE COULD RESULT
1. Splice circuit 640, R/Y, located on the driver side under the instrument panel, labeled "Power Take-Off Circuit," to the body builder installed wire that connects to the positive side of the PTO indicator switch or PTO control relay.
2. Splice circuit 323, LB/Y, located on the driver side underhood, labeled "Power Take-Off Circuit," to the body builder-installed wire that connects to the positive (Switched) side of the PTO indicator light.
Failure to properly connect this wire may result in erroneous emissions codes and illumination of the "Check Engine" light during PTO operation.
In electrically actuated systems, the wire labeled "Power Take-Off Circuit," must be isolated from the solenoid or PCM DAMAGE COULD RESULT.

See also:
. . . . . . . .
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html (E-mail req'd but not checked; switch to WIRING DIAGRAMS)

For '79 & similar trucks, see:
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/24302/78593-2

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EECs96FB.jpg | Hits: 62 | Size: 83.12 KB | Posted on: 2/20/24 | Link to this image


'96 F-Series & Bronco EEC-V PCM Connector Faces & Pinouts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. .

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Grounds93B.JPG | Hits: 9864 | Size: 57.61 KB | Posted on: 2/7/12 | Link to this image


'93 Bronco Grounds; '87-96 Bronco/F-series similar
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This diagram is compiled for a truck without E4OD or ESOF, and a 4.9L engine (which wasn't offered in a '93 Bronco). Splice 207 has been corrected. Note the unnamed connector (C2??) near S207: it's a 1-pin gray connector taped into the main dash harness (14401) 6" left from the chime takeout.

This diagram does not show the radio suppression bond straps running from the frame to the body, which are not power grounds, and neither are the 2 that ARE shown between the blower resistor & EEC. One of the straps NOT shown goes from the RHF sway bar tab to the core support; another goes from the 3rd LHS body mount bracket to the cab structure.

It's possible that the G100 circuit is linked to G101 inside the HCU. Some later trucks have G104 linked to G100.

G102 isn't an official Ford label, but this is what I use it to identify:

Motorcraft F2TZ-14301-B Negative Battery Cable with body, frame, & block grounds

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams-database/
. .

For '79 & similar trucks, see:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24302/78593-2
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one of the main electrical pathways, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

Some vehicles also have large un-insulated woven wire straps joining large metal components, but those are not power grounds. Those are RFI grounds, used to reduce the amount of electromagnetic noise passing through those components.

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C202-205 93B.JPG | Hits: 9176 | Size: 110.36 KB | Posted on: 2/23/12 | Link to this image


'93 Bronco Firewall Connectors C202 & C205
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'92-96 Bronco & F-series similar

This diagram has been confirmed from a '93 Bronco XLT wiring harness. Errors from the EVTM have been corrected. The pinouts are looking into the MATING FACES of the connectors; for the rear (harness) view, use the pinout numbers of the opposite gender.

. . .

For '79 & similar trucks, see:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24302/78593-2

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C202 1994.jpg | Hits: 6319 | Size: 79.02 KB | Posted on: 7/16/05 | Link to this image


1994 F-Series & Bronco C202 In-Line

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FrameWiring.JPG | Hits: 7684 | Size: 40.61 KB | Posted on: 6/30/12 | Link to this image


'90-96 Bronco Frame Wiring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'87-89 also has a takeout near 6 for the frame fuel pump.



See also:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

For '79 & similar trucks, see:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/24302/78593-2

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IgSwLogic.JPG | Hits: 19376 | Size: 72.98 KB | Posted on: 10/17/10 | Link to this image


Ignition Switch Logic Tables '80-96
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The early '80-91 switch is on the LEFT; the later '92-up is on the RIGHT.

'80-91 Motorcraft SW2472
Battery - Y - 37
Accy1 - Bk/LG - 297
Accy2 - Gy/Y - 687
Ign1 - R/LG - 16
Ign2 - Br/Pk - 262
Start - R/LB or Wh/Pk - 32
Proof1 - Pu/Wh - 977
Proof2 - Bk/LB - 41

See also:
. . . .

'92-96 Motorcraft SW5011 WPT507
{ACC continuity only between A1 & B5}
B1, B2, B3, B4, B5 - Y
GND - Bk
Accy1 - Bk/LG
Accy2 - Gy/Y (connected externally to A3)
Accy3 - Gy/Y (connected externally to A2)
Accy4 - Gy/Y
Ign1 - R/LG
Ign2 - not used
Start - R/LB
Proof1 - Bk/LB (diesel)
Proof2 - T/LG

See also:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=9231
. . .

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IgSw80-91Install.jpg | Hits: 50 | Size: 99.93 KB | Posted on: 2/20/24 | Link to this image


Pre-'92 Ignition Switch & Lock Cylinder Testing & Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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BulbsFusesWire.JPG | Hits: 10662 | Size: 110.06 KB | Posted on: 10/25/10 | Link to this image


Bulb, Fuse, & Wire Current Specs

For bulb resistance, use Ohm's law: V (Volts) = R (Ohms) x i (Amps), so:
R (Ohms) = V (Volts) / i (Amps)
A 194 bulb has 14 / .72 = 19.4444444 Ohms resistance
An 1815 bulb has 14.4 / 0.2 = 72 Ohms resistance
For an incandescent bulb labeled in volts & watts: V x V / W = R
A 15W @ 12V bulb has 12 x 12 / 15 = 9.6 Ohms

- When the diameter of a wire is doubled, the AWG will decrease by 6. (e.g., No. 18 AWG is about twice the diameter of No. 24 AWG.)
- When the cross-sectional area of a wire is doubled, the AWG will decrease by 3. (e.g., two No. 18 AWG wires have about the same cross-sectional area as a single No. 15 AWG wire.)
- When gauge is decreased by ten gauge numbers (from No. 18 to 8 ), the area and weight increase, and the resistance decreases, each by a factor of approximately 10.

Most commonly-available wire has PVC insulation. Wire labelled for use as fusible link has cross-linked polyethylene insulation (XLPE). The modern name for XLPE is PEX.

See also:

. . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2002/281.pdf
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf
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ELECTRICAL MODIFICATIONS:
1. All wiring additions and revisions should comply with procedures described below.
2. If horns are relocated, their location must be above the frame bottom with the bell mouth of each horn pointed down.
3. If the battery location is changed, the new location must be adequately ventilated, accessible for servicing, protected from road splash, and incorporate a shockless mounting.
4. If the battery location is changed requiring longer cables, a heavier wire gauge battery cable must be used.
5. If the original-equipment battery is replaced by more than one battery or a battery of a larger capacity, the battery charging and power supply circuit must be checked and revised to carry the additional loads.
6. Fog and driving lamps: state, provincial or local laws may regulate the manner in which the fog and driving lamps are used, or may require additional equipment for the particular use intended for the vehicle. It is the buyer's/owner's/operator's responsibility to determine the applicability of such laws to the intended use for the vehicle, and to arrange for the installation of required equipment.
7. Do not delete or deactivate the Center High Mount Stop Lamp unless it will be blocked by second unit body.
8. Adding high-current loading to the electrical system (such as A/C) will require an alternator with a minimum 60 Ampere rating.
Caution: The remote electronic voltage regulator base must always be connected to the battery, engine, and chassis ground when the ignition switch is in either the on or start position. The voltage regulator will be damaged if this connection does not exist when the ignition switch is energized.

ELECTRICAL WIRING SECTION
This section provides instructions for the addition and/or modification of electrical devices to the vehicle electrical system.

GENERAL PRACTICES
Vehicles stored on site should have the negative battery cable disconnected to minimize "Dead Battery" situation. This applies to both "incomplete" and "complete" vehicles in storage.

Federal and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (F/CMVSS) Requirements:
1. All Ford vehicles built and fully-completed by Ford comply with FMVSS and CMVSS No. 108, "Lamps, Reflective Devices and Associated Equipment" and other applicable FMVSS and CMVSS that affect electrical components.
2. Incomplete vehicle (i.e., chassis cab, stripped chassis, chassis cowl, etc.) will conform to these F/CMVSS according to the provisions and conditions stated in the Incomplete Vehicle Manual attached to each incomplete vehicle. Care must be taken that modifications do not conceal, alter or change components installed or provided by Ford Motor Company to achieve this conformance.
3. All vehicles powered by spark ignition internal combustion engines (e.g. gasoline or liquid petroleum gas engines) and manufactured for sale or use in Canada are subject to the Canadian "Regulations for the Control of Interference to Radio Reception," SOR / 75-629, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 109, No. 21, November 12, 1975, as amended by SOR / 77-860, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 111, No. 21, November 9, 1977, by SOR / 78-727, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 112, No. 18, September 27, 1978, and by SOR / 80-915, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 114, No. 23, December 10, 1980. Violation of these regulations is punishable by fine or imprisonment. Ford-built incomplete vehicles other than stripped chassis are designed and manufactured to be capable of meeting the regulatory requirements or such modifications thereof as may be authorized by the Canadian Department of Communications. However, because Ford has no control over how an incomplete vehicle is completed by subsequent stage manufacturers, Ford does not represent that the completed vehicle incorporating the Ford-built components will comply with applicable requirements.

Routing & Clamping:
1. It is strongly recommended that wiring in areas of heavy rework, or in areas where welding operations are to be performed, be removed prior to the rework operations and reinstalled after the rework is completed. If vehicle is equipped with an Electronic Engine Control System, the EEC module must be disconnected before any electrical welding is performed; otherwise, module damage may result. If wire removal is not practical, the wires must be shielded from damage due to the rework and welding heat. All components and wiring should be re-installed as closely as possible to the factory arrangement.
2. Wires routed through holes in sheet metal or castings must have the hole edges protected by a grommet or edge lacing.
3. Wires should be routed to avoid metal edges, screws, trim fasteners and abrasive surfaces. When such routings are not possible, protective devices (shields, caps, wire loom, etc.) must be used to protect the wires. When wires must cross a metal edge, the edge should be covered with a protective shield, and the wiring secured within three inches on each side of the edge.
4. Wires must be routed to provide at least three inches clearance to moving parts, unless positively fastened or protected by a conduit.
5. Wire routings should avoid areas where temperatures exceed 180°F, and a minimum clearance of six inches should be maintained from exhaust system components. Where compliance with this requirement is not possible, heat insulation and heat shields are required.
6. When wiring is routed between two members where relative motion can occur, the wiring should be secured to each member, with enough wire slack to allow flexing without damage to the wire.
7. Wiring to all circuit components (switches, relays, etc.) in exposed locations must provide a drip loop to prevent moisture from being conducted into the device via the wire connection.
8. Routing wires into areas exposed to wheel wash should be avoided. When such routings cannot be avoided, adequate clipping or protective shields are required to protect the wires from stone and ice damage.
9. Routing wires under the frame side members or at points lower than the bottom frame flange should be avoided to prevent damage to the wires from brush contact in off-road operations.
10. The wire retainers and grommets installed by the assembly plant are usually designed to accommodate only the Ford-installed wires. Additional wiring or tubing should be retained by additional clips. When added wires or tubes are routed through sheet metal panels, new holes (with proper wire protection and sealing) must be used.
11. All wiring connnections to components of the factory-installed system must be accomplished by using the proper mating wire termination. (Connections on studs and ground connections must use eyelet terminations, connections to female bullets must terminate in male bullets, etc. Scotch-Loks and other mechanical pierce connections are not acceptable.)

Splice/Repair:
1.Wire ends should be stripped making sure that individual conductor strands are not damaged. Corrosion of the strands must be cleaned away before splicing.
2. When soldering, make sure an adequate mechanical joint exists before applying solder. Use only rosin-core solder for electrical connections; never acid-core.
3. For crimp joints, use butt-type metal-barrel fasteners and a proper tool (such as Motorcraft crimp tool S-9796) specifically designed for this type of work, and for the size of the crimp.
4. Splice joints must be adequately sealed and insulated (except return/ground circuits). Heat shrink tubing is highly recommended to cover soldered and bare metal-barrel crimp joints. Quality electrical tape can be used inside the vehicle but is not recommended for an outside environment.
5. Seal the ends of insulated barrel crimp devices with a silicone grease or hot glue when in an outside environment.
6. The most-durable splice joint will be bare metal-barrel crimped, flow-soldered, and covered with adhesive shrink tubing. Use this type of joint as often as possible.

Circuit Protection:
1. Modification to existing vehicle wiring should be done only with extreme caution and consideration of effects on the completed vehicle electrical system. Anticipated circuitry should be studied to ensure that adequate circuit protection will exist and that feedback loops are not created.
2. Any added circuitry must have circuit protection (fuse or breaker); either via the base vehicle, or by the body builder.
3. When adding loads to a base vehicle protected circuit, make sure that the total electrical load thru the base vehicle fusible link, fuse, or breaker is less than that device's rating.
a) Total current draw is the sum of the base vehicle circuit current requirement (measured with an ammeter) and the anticipated add-on components' current requirements.
b) Never increase the rating of a factory-installed fuse or circuit breaker without either: increasing the entire circuit's gauge to accomodate the total current, or; wiring the circuit to split the load from the fuse output terminal. Never increase the fuse or C.B. rating above the rating of the fuse/C.B. socket terminal.
c) For added lamp loads, the "Bulb Chart" will aid in determination of common lamp current draws.
4. If the total electrical load on the circuit (after the addition of electrical equipment) s less than 80% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating in that circuit and less than the capacity of each limiting component (switch, relay, etc.), the items to be added can be connected directly to that circuit. For fuses located in the engine compartment, the electrical load should not exceed 60% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating.
5. If the total electrical load to be imposed on a circuit exceeds the value of the circuit protection, or the value of any limiting component, the items cannot be added directly to the circuit.
a) Added devices exceeding the current capabilities of the factory-installed system are best controlled through the use of a relay or hang-on switch. The coil of the relay (in accordance with the preceding limitations) can be fed from the factory circuit (now acting as a signal circuit) with added wiring providing feeds to the added electrical devices. (Relay selection is important and depends on: current requirements; number of cycles expected in the relay lifetime; whether the relay is to be operated intermittently or for long periods of time, and; whether the relay is exposed to weather conditions or is installed in a protected area. When the current requirements of a circuit exceed the capacity of an available relay, more than one relay can be used if the circuit is wired to split the load).
b) Added wire feeds to the switch or relay power contacts should not be tapped into the basic vehicle wiring. Draw and return power as close to the battery as possible (i.e., the starter motor relay, the engine block or frame, etc.).
c) Circuit protection (fuses or circuit breakers) must be provided for all added wiring. The protection device rating should not exceed the current requirements for the add-on components and should be installed as close to the point of tapped power as possible.
d) Never use the stud on the underhood fuse panel as a junction point.

Wire Gage:
1. When adding wiring, the wire gage size should be determined as follows:
a) Where wire is spliced to extend a circuit, the added wire should have a gauge equal to or lower (larger) that of the circuit being lengthened.
b) Where wire is being added to feed add-on devices, the wire gauge table should be used. (Note: Current capacity of a given wire varies with temperature and type of insulation. The table, however, represents generally accepted values as a guide).
2. Wherever possible, added wiring should have a thermosetting insulation (such as Hypalon or cross-linked polyethelyne/XLPE/PEX) meeting SAE specifications J1128 type SXL, GXL or TXL (SAE specifications J1127 type SGX or STX for battery cables).

WIRE GAGE MAXIMUM CURRENT CAPACITY
(PLASTIC INSULATED COPPER WIRE)
20ga - 10 Amps
18ga - 15 Amps
16ga - 20 Amps
14ga - 25 Amps
12ga - 30 Amps
10ga - 45 Amps

BULB CHART
BULB TRADE NUMBER CANDLE POWER CURRENT @ RATED VOLTAGE
90 6 .58 Amps
94 15 1.04 Amps
67/97 4 .69 Amps
97 N.A. .69 Amps
105 12 1.00 Amps
161 1 .19 Amps
168 3 .35 Amps
192 3 0.33 A @ 13.0V
194 2 .27 Amps
211-2 12 .97 Amps
212-2 6 .74 Amps
214-2 4 .50 Amps
561 12 .97 Amps
562 6 .74 Amps
573 32 2.00 Amps
578 9 0.78 A @ 12.8V
579 9 0.8 A @ 12.8V
631 6 .63 Amps
904 4 0.69 A @ 13.5V
904NA 5.3 0.69 A @ 13.5V
906 6 0.69 A @ 13.5V
912 12 1.0 A @ 12.8V
916 2 0.54 A @ 13.5V
916NA 1.5 0.54 A @ 13.5V
921 21 1.4 A @ 12.8V
922 15 0.98 A @ 12.8V
1076 32 1.80 Amps
1156 32 2.10 Amps
1157 (OR or N.A.) 32 /3 2.10/.59 Amps
1157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
1157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
1178 4 .69 Amps
1195 50 3.00 Amps
1196 50 3.00 Amps
1445 .7 .14 Amps
1815 1.4 .20 Amps
1816 3 .33 Amps
1891 2 .24 Amps
1892 .75 .12 Amps
1893 2 .33 Amps
1895 2 .27 Amps
3057 (major) 32 2.1 A@ 12.8V
3057 (minor) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
3155K 21 1.6 A @ 12.8V
3156 (P27W) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3456K 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (major) 30 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3457K (major) 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3757AK (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3757AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4000 37.5, 60 Watts 3.14, 5.04 Amps
4001 26,000 3.14 Amps
4002 21,000 Low 14,000 Hi 4.20, 3.14 Amps
4057K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
4157K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4405 50,000 2.58 Amps
4412 35 Watts 2.74 Amps
4414 18 Watts 1.41 Amps
H6054 35, 65 Watts 2.94, 5.46 Amps
4415 35 Watts 2.73 Amps
4416 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
4435 75,000 2.34 Amps
4475 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
6015 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.10, 4.97 Amps
6014 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.20, 4.97 Amps
6112 40, 50 Watts 3.10, 3.91 Amps
9003 (HB2) (low) 76 55W @ 12.0V
9003 (HB2) (high) 125 60W @ 12.0V
9005 (HB3) 135 65W @ 12.8V
9006 (HB4) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (low) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (high) 107 65W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (high) - 65W @ 12.8V
9140 48 40W @ 12.8V
9145 (H10) 65 45W @ 12.8V
W5W 4 0.4 A @ 12.0V
H1 117 55W @ 12.0V
H2 143 4.17 Amps
H3 121 55W @ 12.0V
H7 125 55W @ 12.0V
H9 167 65W @ 12.0V
H11 107 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (high) - 65W @ 12.8V

ADDING LIGHTS OR ELECTRICAL DEVICES
Although there are many points in the truck electrical system to connect additional circuits, certain connection points are recommended for reliability and convenience. This section defines the recommended connection points for each Ford truck model and the maximum electrical loads allowable. Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming non-functional. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable and remove it from the battery carrier prior to any vehicle modification. Upon completion of body or equipment installation, all wiring should be checked for proper routing, etc. to preclude electrical shorts upon reinstallation of the battery negative cable.
CAUTION: Improper electrical tie-ins may affect vehicle operation (i.e., engine, transmission).

1. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY HEADLAMP SWITCH
The headlamp switches on all Ford Light Trucks (F-150-350, Bronco, Econoline) employ one integral 15-amp circuit breaker for the headlight circuit, and one 15-amp fuse located in the fuse panel for auxiliary circuits. Connections to any point in the circuits controlled by the headlamp switch should be on the auxiliary fuse. Connections to the #12 circuit (headlamp hi-beam, green wire/black stripe), the # 13 circuit (headlamp low-beam, red wire/black stripe) and the #15 circuit (feed wire to dimmer switch, red wire/yellow stripe) should be avoided. If the total load on the headlamp circuit breaker exceeds the breaker rating, the headlamps will cycle on and off indicating the overload. If this occurs, a portion of the added lights must be wired through a relay, feeding the relay coil from the headlamp switch. On models equipped with marker lamp switches it is highly recommended added lights employ that circuitry.
F-150 THRU F-350 AND BRONCO
The feed for added lights to be controlled by the headlamp switch should be terminated in a female connector and be connected to the male take-out (brown wire #14 circuit) on the left-hand side of the instrument panel harness (near the emergency brake). If the vehicle has roof marker lights with dual battery option, this connector will be occupied. In the case of dual battery option, an additional connector (control by the relay) will be provided. In this case, fabricate a " Y" jumper to permit both connections to the single connector. Rear lights to be controlled by the headlight switch can be spliced into the #14 circuit (brown wire) at any point in the taillamp harness. NOTE: On trailer tow and camper option, a plug connector is provided at the left-hand rear frame to which taillamp connection can be made.
ECONOLINE
REAR LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in cross-over harness at rear of truck.
FRONT LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in 14401 wire asembly along right or left fender apron.
LATE-MODEL F-SUPER-DUTY
The head lamp switch used on the Super Duty F-Series vehicles is a low current switch designed to signal the SPDJB to activate all exterior lighting. The left- and righthand low beam lamps are then fused individually using a 10A fuse located in the SPDJB fuse box. The high beam lamps are fused using a separate 15A fuse while the interior lamps are fused using 10A fuses located in the SPDJB fuse box. A connection to any circuit in the system controlled by the head lamp switch must be done using an auxiliary relay. Any connection must be performed on the lighting output of the SPDJB additional load connected to the headlamp switch will damage the headlamp switch. A marker lamp relay circuit 962 for SUB additions is provided for convenience as standard equipment on chassis cabs, optional on pickups. Do not connect to other OEM wires. Adding additional loads to headlamp circuits may require SPDJB to be reconfigured for snowplow - TSB-7-9-1

2. ADDED LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY ROOF MARKER LAMP SWITCH
F-150 THRU F-350 - ALL MODELS: Not applicable - no roof marker lamp switch is installed. Roof marker lamps are controlled directly by the headlamp switch (except on camper, stake and platform models and /or dual battery option, whose marker lamps are controlled by an 18-amp relay which is operated by the headlamp switch).
ECONOLINE: Not applicable - No roof marker lamps are installed.

3. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY STOP LAMP SWITCH AND TURN INDICATOR SWITCH
Two types of stop lamp switches are in use on Ford trucks: mechanical switch operated by brake pedal, and an air switch operated by air pressure in the brake system. These switches are designed for maximum loads usually less than the fuse or circuit breaker in the circuit but ample for normal stop lamp loads. These maximum loads are: 8 amps for air operated switches and 12.5 amps for mechanical switches (2004-up 15A). Under no circumstances are total loads in excess of these values permissible. All Ford light trucks are released with a mechanical stop lamp switch mounted on the brake pedal arm for Econoline, and on the pedal pin and master cylinder push rod for F-Series & Bronco. This switch has a maximum allowable electrical load of 12.5 amps.
a) If only stop lamp function is desired for the added lights, splice into the #810 circuit, red wire/black stripe for Econoline (#10 circuit, light green-red hash marks for F-Series) between the stop lamp switch and the turn indicator switch (2004-up YE-GN CLS43 at the blunt cut customer access wire located at the rear of the vehicle near trailer tow connector C4099).
b) If only turn signal function is desired for the added lights, connect right-hand lights to circuit #2 (white wire/blue stripe) and lefthanded lights to circuit #3 (green wire/white stripe). This connection can be made by splicing into the wires near the parking lights or near the steering column. (See note below).
c) If both turn signal and stop lamp function are desired for the added lights, splice into the taillamp loom, using circuit #282, green wire for Econoline (circuit #5, orange-light blue stripe for F-Series) for right-hand lights and circuit #283, yellow wire/black stripe for Econoline (circuit #9, light green-orange stripe for F-Series) for left-hand lights. (See note below.)
NOTE:
1. The early turn signal switch used on light trucks has a maximum rated current of 6.5 amps for right and left turning functions and 8.0 amps for stop lamp function. Do not exceed these values on the turn signals. The 2004-up turn signal switch is designed to use a low current to signal the SPDJB to activate turn signal and stop lamps. The switch is not designed to directly power any lamps or other electrical devices.
2. The turn signal and emergency flasher system on early light trucks utilizes two flashers, one for emergency flasher function. These flashers are designed to accommodate a two-light (4.2 amps) load for the turn signal flasher and a six-light load (12.6 amps) for the emergency flasher. If one additional 2.1-amp light is added to each side (total 6 lamps)the C8AB-13350-A turn signal flasher must be replaced with a C6AB-13350-B flasher. The addition of two 2.1-amp lamps to each side (total 8 lamps) will require replacing the existing two flashers with a single C8TB-13350-A transistorized flasher and, because of the complexity, is not recommended. The addition of lights without a flasher revision will result in a very fast, unacceptable flashing rate.
3. Do not splice into turn/stop circuits at SPDJB, or into turn circuits at multi-function switch. Splicing in those areas will damage the switch or cause the SPDJB to malfunction. Use the trailer tow circuits and trailer tow relays to power added turn/stop lights. Circuits are accessible at the rear of the vehicle LT/Stop=YE, RT/Stop=GN. Reverse/back-up lights must be tied-in using trailer tow relays and circuits in same manner as turn/stop lights.
4. Splicing into the stop lamp switch on vehicles with Electronically Controlled Transmissions can interfere with the proper functioning of PCM, speed control, and anti-lock brake electronic modules. This can:
- Affect EFI engine idle speed quality.
- Prevent the Powertrain Control Module torque converter clutch from applying at throttle openings less than half throttle.
- Deactivate anti-lock brake system operation
- Prevent the speed control from disengaging upon braking.

4. ADDED LIGHTS OR ACCESSORIES CONTROLLED BY ADDED SWITCHES
This section describes the connection points for added electrical accessories when these accessories are to be controlled by added switches not a part of the Ford-released vehicle. The added switches and wiring must have sufficient electrical capacity for the accessory load and must be protected by appropriate fuses or circuit breakers. Additional loads on Ford-provided fuses may cause nuisance fuse blows. Also, added current draw must not cause total loads to exceed capabilities of the base vehicle wiring.
For added electrical accessories that operate only when the ignition is on - terminate the feed wire from the hang-on switch in a bullet connector and plug into the three-way accessory plug (yellow) on the instrument panel harness (single black wire/green stripe). This circuit is protected and needs no additional fusing.

5. RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE (RFI)
During modifications to the vehicle, manufacturers should take the necessary precautions to maintain the RFI integrity of components. (Canada has an RFI regulation in effect, see page 226.) Precautionary procedures and components listed below are examples and do not necessarily represent a complete list.
a) All components required to suppress RFI emissions, which are removed during service, repair, or completion of the vehicle, must be reinstalled in the manner in which they were installed by Ford.
b) Shields on distributor and ignition coil use capacitors as required.
c) Replacement spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coils, distributor caps and distributor rotor must be equivalent in their RFI suppression properties to original equipment.
d) Electrical grounds on all components must be retained.
e) Metallic components installed on the body or chassis must be grounded to the chassis.
f) Electrical circuits added to the vehicle should not be installed near the high tension ignition components.
g) Only " static conductive" accessory drive belts should be used.
h) Fan, water pump, power steering and other belts should be of the OEM type or equivalent that will not build up a static electrical charge.
i) For any completed vehicle, additional measures may be needed to adequately suppress RFI emissions.
j) Guidance for installing two-way mobile radios can be found via the web at http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/Mobile_Radio_Guide.pdf .

6. GUIDELINES FOR POWERTRAIN CONTROL SYSTEM APPLICATIONS:
All Powertrain Control Module wiring, in particular the 12A581 and 14401, must be a minimum of 2 inches from secondary ignition coil wires and at least 4 inches from the distributor, ignition coil tower, and starter motor (and its wiring) as well as 4 inches from the alternator output wiring. These clearances apply in particular to all PCM sensor and actuator pigtail wiring. PCM wires shall not be in the same bundle as other high-current non-PCM circuits (e.g., tachometer wire from coil to Thick Film Ignition Module (TFI), power seat/door lock/window, horn, alternator reg.) for a distance of more than 20 inches.

7. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT:
The check engine warning light is a device required on certain vehicles to indicate malfunctions of the Powertrain Control Module. For all vehicles except ESeries Super Duty Stripped Chassis (which is not equipped with a dashboard), if a warning light is required, it is Ford installed and operational. The light is also required for all gasoline powered E-Series Super Duty Stripped Chassis vehicles. The warning lamp is included in the supplied instrument cluster, located in the dunnage box. It should be recognized that this light is a requirement of Emission Certification. If an alternate instrument cluster is utilized, the final stage manufacturer must install an operational light in the dashboard. This light must glow amber and display the message, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." Once the light has been completed by the final stage manufacturer, proper function can be determined by turning the key to the on position. The light should come on prior to engine cranking and go out when the engine starts. If the light does not come on as above, refer to Section 14 (Quick test step 7 - Diagnostics by Symptom) of Volume H (Engine and Emission Diagnostic Manual) of the Car and Truck Service Manual for diagnostic procedure.

After all electrical or vehicle modifications, perform the on-board diagnostics as described in the powertrain control/emissions diagnosis (PCED) manual to clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Road test vehicle and rerun the on-board diagnostics to verify that no DTCs are present.
If DTCs are generated, perform the appropriate diagnostic procedures and repairs. Vehicle operation (engine/transmission) may be affected if DTCs are not serviced.

It is the body builder's responsibility to use sound engineering judgment when making any modifications to a vehicle, and the body builder is responsible for ensuring that all modifications made are appropriate for the intended vehicle application.
NOTE: The final stage manufacturer is responsible for ensuring that the final vehicle configuration meets all applicable regulatory requirements.
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one of the main electrical pathways, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

Some vehicles also have large un-insulated woven wire straps joining large metal components, but those are not power grounds. Those are RFI grounds, used to reduce the amount of electromagnetic noise passing through those components.

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Wire length, current, gauge charts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that there is no single standard for how much current any particular size or length of wire can handle. That depends on MANY other factors including:
- how much voltage drop is acceptable (power loss)
- how much temperature rise is acceptable (insulation melting point)
- how many other wires are in the bundle, and how much temperature they can handle
- how the current is being applied (AC, pulse, frequency, continuous...)
- the quality of the conductor material (purity of Cu)
- the quality of the insulation (type of plastic)
- ambient temperature (environment)
- ambient chemical atmosphere (environment)
- tension on the wires (particularly when bundled or turned around obstacles & edges)
...and the list goes on & on.

These charts are merely guidelines based on several different sets of standards, which is why their recommendations on minimum wire gauge vs. maximum current vary so widely.

See also:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
.
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ELECTRICAL MODIFICATIONS:
1. All wiring additions and revisions should comply with procedures described below.
2. If horns are relocated, their location must be above the frame bottom with the bell mouth of each horn pointed down.
3. If the battery location is changed, the new location must be adequately ventilated, accessible for servicing, protected from road splash, and incorporate a shockless mounting.
4. If the battery location is changed requiring longer cables, a heavier wire gauge battery cable must be used.
5. If the original-equipment battery is replaced by more than one battery or a battery of a larger capacity, the battery charging and power supply circuit must be checked and revised to carry the additional loads.
6. Fog and driving lamps: state, provincial or local laws may regulate the manner in which the fog and driving lamps are used, or may require additional equipment for the particular use intended for the vehicle. It is the buyer's/owner's/operator's responsibility to determine the applicability of such laws to the intended use for the vehicle, and to arrange for the installation of required equipment.
7. Do not delete or deactivate the Center High Mount Stop Lamp unless it will be blocked by second unit body.
8. Adding high-current loading to the electrical system (such as A/C) will require an alternator with a minimum 60 Ampere rating.
Caution: The remote electronic voltage regulator base must always be connected to the battery, engine, and chassis ground when the ignition switch is in either the on or start position. The voltage regulator will be damaged if this connection does not exist when the ignition switch is energized.

ELECTRICAL WIRING SECTION
This section provides instructions for the addition and/or modification of electrical devices to the vehicle electrical system.

GENERAL PRACTICES
Vehicles stored on site should have the negative battery cable disconnected to minimize "Dead Battery" situation. This applies to both "incomplete" and "complete" vehicles in storage.

Federal and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (F/CMVSS) Requirements:
1. All Ford vehicles built and fully-completed by Ford comply with FMVSS and CMVSS No. 108, "Lamps, Reflective Devices and Associated Equipment" and other applicable FMVSS and CMVSS that affect electrical components.
2. Incomplete vehicle (i.e., chassis cab, stripped chassis, chassis cowl, etc.) will conform to these F/CMVSS according to the provisions and conditions stated in the Incomplete Vehicle Manual attached to each incomplete vehicle. Care must be taken that modifications do not conceal, alter or change components installed or provided by Ford Motor Company to achieve this conformance.
3. All vehicles powered by spark ignition internal combustion engines (e.g. gasoline or liquid petroleum gas engines) and manufactured for sale or use in Canada are subject to the Canadian "Regulations for the Control of Interference to Radio Reception," SOR / 75-629, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 109, No. 21, November 12, 1975, as amended by SOR / 77-860, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 111, No. 21, November 9, 1977, by SOR / 78-727, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 112, No. 18, September 27, 1978, and by SOR / 80-915, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 114, No. 23, December 10, 1980. Violation of these regulations is punishable by fine or imprisonment. Ford-built incomplete vehicles other than stripped chassis are designed and manufactured to be capable of meeting the regulatory requirements or such modifications thereof as may be authorized by the Canadian Department of Communications. However, because Ford has no control over how an incomplete vehicle is completed by subsequent stage manufacturers, Ford does not represent that the completed vehicle incorporating the Ford-built components will comply with applicable requirements.

Routing & Clamping:
1. It is strongly recommended that wiring in areas of heavy rework, or in areas where welding operations are to be performed, be removed prior to the rework operations and reinstalled after the rework is completed. If vehicle is equipped with an Electronic Engine Control System, the EEC module must be disconnected before any electrical welding is performed; otherwise, module damage may result. If wire removal is not practical, the wires must be shielded from damage due to the rework and welding heat. All components and wiring should be re-installed as closely as possible to the factory arrangement.
2. Wires routed through holes in sheet metal or castings must have the hole edges protected by a grommet or edge lacing.
3. Wires should be routed to avoid metal edges, screws, trim fasteners and abrasive surfaces. When such routings are not possible, protective devices (shields, caps, wire loom, etc.) must be used to protect the wires. When wires must cross a metal edge, the edge should be covered with a protective shield, and the wiring secured within three inches on each side of the edge.
4. Wires must be routed to provide at least three inches clearance to moving parts, unless positively fastened or protected by a conduit.
5. Wire routings should avoid areas where temperatures exceed 180°F, and a minimum clearance of six inches should be maintained from exhaust system components. Where compliance with this requirement is not possible, heat insulation and heat shields are required.
6. When wiring is routed between two members where relative motion can occur, the wiring should be secured to each member, with enough wire slack to allow flexing without damage to the wire.
7. Wiring to all circuit components (switches, relays, etc.) in exposed locations must provide a drip loop to prevent moisture from being conducted into the device via the wire connection.
8. Routing wires into areas exposed to wheel wash should be avoided. When such routings cannot be avoided, adequate clipping or protective shields are required to protect the wires from stone and ice damage.
9. Routing wires under the frame side members or at points lower than the bottom frame flange should be avoided to prevent damage to the wires from brush contact in off-road operations.
10. The wire retainers and grommets installed by the assembly plant are usually designed to accommodate only the Ford-installed wires. Additional wiring or tubing should be retained by additional clips. When added wires or tubes are routed through sheet metal panels, new holes (with proper wire protection and sealing) must be used.
11. All wiring connnections to components of the factory-installed system must be accomplished by using the proper mating wire termination. (Connections on studs and ground connections must use eyelet terminations, connections to female bullets must terminate in male bullets, etc. Scotch-Loks and other mechanical pierce connections are not acceptable.)

Splice/Repair:
1.Wire ends should be stripped making sure that individual conductor strands are not damaged. Corrosion of the strands must be cleaned away before splicing.
2. When soldering, make sure an adequate mechanical joint exists before applying solder. Use only rosin-core solder for electrical connections; never acid-core.
3. For crimp joints, use butt-type metal-barrel fasteners and a proper tool (such as Motorcraft crimp tool S-9796) specifically designed for this type of work, and for the size of the crimp.
4. Splice joints must be adequately sealed and insulated (except return/ground circuits). Heat shrink tubing is highly recommended to cover soldered and bare metal-barrel crimp joints. Quality electrical tape can be used inside the vehicle but is not recommended for an outside environment.
5. Seal the ends of insulated barrel crimp devices with a silicone grease or hot glue when in an outside environment.
6. The most-durable splice joint will be bare metal-barrel crimped, flow-soldered, and covered with adhesive shrink tubing. Use this type of joint as often as possible.

Circuit Protection:
1. Modification to existing vehicle wiring should be done only with extreme caution and consideration of effects on the completed vehicle electrical system. Anticipated circuitry should be studied to ensure that adequate circuit protection will exist and that feedback loops are not created.
2. Any added circuitry must have circuit protection (fuse or breaker); either via the base vehicle, or by the body builder.
3. When adding loads to a base vehicle protected circuit, make sure that the total electrical load thru the base vehicle fusible link, fuse, or breaker is less than that device's rating.
a) Total current draw is the sum of the base vehicle circuit current requirement (measured with an ammeter) and the anticipated add-on components' current requirements.
b) Never increase the rating of a factory-installed fuse or circuit breaker without either: increasing the entire circuit's gauge to accomodate the total current, or; wiring the circuit to split the load from the fuse output terminal. Never increase the fuse or C.B. rating above the rating of the fuse/C.B. socket terminal.
c) For added lamp loads, the "Bulb Chart" will aid in determination of common lamp current draws.
4. If the total electrical load on the circuit (after the addition of electrical equipment) s less than 80% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating in that circuit and less than the capacity of each limiting component (switch, relay, etc.), the items to be added can be connected directly to that circuit. For fuses located in the engine compartment, the electrical load should not exceed 60% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating.
5. If the total electrical load to be imposed on a circuit exceeds the value of the circuit protection, or the value of any limiting component, the items cannot be added directly to the circuit.
a) Added devices exceeding the current capabilities of the factory-installed system are best controlled through the use of a relay or hang-on switch. The coil of the relay (in accordance with the preceding limitations) can be fed from the factory circuit (now acting as a signal circuit) with added wiring providing feeds to the added electrical devices. (Relay selection is important and depends on: current requirements; number of cycles expected in the relay lifetime; whether the relay is to be operated intermittently or for long periods of time, and; whether the relay is exposed to weather conditions or is installed in a protected area. When the current requirements of a circuit exceed the capacity of an available relay, more than one relay can be used if the circuit is wired to split the load).
b) Added wire feeds to the switch or relay power contacts should not be tapped into the basic vehicle wiring. Draw and return power as close to the battery as possible (i.e., the starter motor relay, the engine block or frame, etc.).
c) Circuit protection (fuses or circuit breakers) must be provided for all added wiring. The protection device rating should not exceed the current requirements for the add-on components and should be installed as close to the point of tapped power as possible.
d) Never use the stud on the underhood fuse panel as a junction point.

Wire Gage:
1. When adding wiring, the wire gage size should be determined as follows:
a) Where wire is spliced to extend a circuit, the added wire should have a gauge equal to or lower (larger) that of the circuit being lengthened.
b) Where wire is being added to feed add-on devices, the wire gauge table should be used. (Note: Current capacity of a given wire varies with temperature and type of insulation. The table, however, represents generally accepted values as a guide).
2. Wherever possible, added wiring should have a thermosetting insulation (such as Hypalon or cross-linked polyethelyne/XLPE/PEX) meeting SAE specifications J1128 type SXL, GXL or TXL (SAE specifications J1127 type SGX or STX for battery cables).

WIRE GAGE MAXIMUM CURRENT CAPACITY
(PLASTIC INSULATED COPPER WIRE)
20ga - 10 Amps
18ga - 15 Amps
16ga - 20 Amps
14ga - 25 Amps
12ga - 30 Amps
10ga - 45 Amps

BULB CHART
BULB TRADE NUMBER CANDLE POWER CURRENT @ RATED VOLTAGE
90 6 .58 Amps
94 15 1.04 Amps
67/97 4 .69 Amps
97 N.A. .69 Amps
105 12 1.00 Amps
161 1 .19 Amps
168 3 .35 Amps
192 3 0.33 A @ 13.0V
194 2 .27 Amps
211-2 12 .97 Amps
212-2 6 .74 Amps
214-2 4 .50 Amps
561 12 .97 Amps
562 6 .74 Amps
573 32 2.00 Amps
578 9 0.78 A @ 12.8V
579 9 0.8 A @ 12.8V
631 6 .63 Amps
904 4 0.69 A @ 13.5V
904NA 5.3 0.69 A @ 13.5V
906 6 0.69 A @ 13.5V
912 12 1.0 A @ 12.8V
916 2 0.54 A @ 13.5V
916NA 1.5 0.54 A @ 13.5V
921 21 1.4 A @ 12.8V
922 15 0.98 A @ 12.8V
1076 32 1.80 Amps
1156 32 2.10 Amps
1157 (OR or N.A.) 32 /3 2.10/.59 Amps
1157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
1157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
1178 4 .69 Amps
1195 50 3.00 Amps
1196 50 3.00 Amps
1445 .7 .14 Amps
1815 1.4 .20 Amps
1816 3 .33 Amps
1891 2 .24 Amps
1892 .75 .12 Amps
1893 2 .33 Amps
1895 2 .27 Amps
3057 (major) 32 2.1 A@ 12.8V
3057 (minor) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
3155K 21 1.6 A @ 12.8V
3156 (P27W) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3456K 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (major) 30 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3457K (major) 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3757AK (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3757AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4000 37.5, 60 Watts 3.14, 5.04 Amps
4001 26,000 3.14 Amps
4002 21,000 Low 14,000 Hi 4.20, 3.14 Amps
4057K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
4157K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4405 50,000 2.58 Amps
4412 35 Watts 2.74 Amps
4414 18 Watts 1.41 Amps
H6054 35, 65 Watts 2.94, 5.46 Amps
4415 35 Watts 2.73 Amps
4416 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
4435 75,000 2.34 Amps
4475 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
6015 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.10, 4.97 Amps
6014 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.20, 4.97 Amps
6112 40, 50 Watts 3.10, 3.91 Amps
9003 (HB2) (low) 76 55W @ 12.0V
9003 (HB2) (high) 125 60W @ 12.0V
9005 (HB3) 135 65W @ 12.8V
9006 (HB4) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (low) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (high) 107 65W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (high) - 65W @ 12.8V
9140 48 40W @ 12.8V
9145 (H10) 65 45W @ 12.8V
W5W 4 0.4 A @ 12.0V
H1 117 55W @ 12.0V
H2 143 4.17 Amps
H3 121 55W @ 12.0V
H7 125 55W @ 12.0V
H9 167 65W @ 12.0V
H11 107 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (high) - 65W @ 12.8V

ADDING LIGHTS OR ELECTRICAL DEVICES
Although there are many points in the truck electrical system to connect additional circuits, certain connection points are recommended for reliability and convenience. This section defines the recommended connection points for each Ford truck model and the maximum electrical loads allowable. Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming non-functional. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable and remove it from the battery carrier prior to any vehicle modification. Upon completion of body or equipment installation, all wiring should be checked for proper routing, etc. to preclude electrical shorts upon reinstallation of the battery negative cable.
CAUTION: Improper electrical tie-ins may affect vehicle operation (i.e., engine, transmission).

1. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY HEADLAMP SWITCH
The headlamp switches on all Ford Light Trucks (F-150-350, Bronco, Econoline) employ one integral 15-amp circuit breaker for the headlight circuit, and one 15-amp fuse located in the fuse panel for auxiliary circuits. Connections to any point in the circuits controlled by the headlamp switch should be on the auxiliary fuse. Connections to the #12 circuit (headlamp hi-beam, green wire/black stripe), the # 13 circuit (headlamp low-beam, red wire/black stripe) and the #15 circuit (feed wire to dimmer switch, red wire/yellow stripe) should be avoided. If the total load on the headlamp circuit breaker exceeds the breaker rating, the headlamps will cycle on and off indicating the overload. If this occurs, a portion of the added lights must be wired through a relay, feeding the relay coil from the headlamp switch. On models equipped with marker lamp switches it is highly recommended added lights employ that circuitry.
F-150 THRU F-350 AND BRONCO
The feed for added lights to be controlled by the headlamp switch should be terminated in a female connector and be connected to the male take-out (brown wire #14 circuit) on the left-hand side of the instrument panel harness (near the emergency brake). If the vehicle has roof marker lights with dual battery option, this connector will be occupied. In the case of dual battery option, an additional connector (control by the relay) will be provided. In this case, fabricate a " Y" jumper to permit both connections to the single connector. Rear lights to be controlled by the headlight switch can be spliced into the #14 circuit (brown wire) at any point in the taillamp harness. NOTE: On trailer tow and camper option, a plug connector is provided at the left-hand rear frame to which taillamp connection can be made.
ECONOLINE
REAR LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in cross-over harness at rear of truck.
FRONT LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in 14401 wire asembly along right or left fender apron.
LATE-MODEL F-SUPER-DUTY
The head lamp switch used on the Super Duty F-Series vehicles is a low current switch designed to signal the SPDJB to activate all exterior lighting. The left- and righthand low beam lamps are then fused individually using a 10A fuse located in the SPDJB fuse box. The high beam lamps are fused using a separate 15A fuse while the interior lamps are fused using 10A fuses located in the SPDJB fuse box. A connection to any circuit in the system controlled by the head lamp switch must be done using an auxiliary relay. Any connection must be performed on the lighting output of the SPDJB additional load connected to the headlamp switch will damage the headlamp switch. A marker lamp relay circuit 962 for SUB additions is provided for convenience as standard equipment on chassis cabs, optional on pickups. Do not connect to other OEM wires. Adding additional loads to headlamp circuits may require SPDJB to be reconfigured for snowplow - TSB-7-9-1

2. ADDED LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY ROOF MARKER LAMP SWITCH
F-150 THRU F-350 - ALL MODELS: Not applicable - no roof marker lamp switch is installed. Roof marker lamps are controlled directly by the headlamp switch (except on camper, stake and platform models and /or dual battery option, whose marker lamps are controlled by an 18-amp relay which is operated by the headlamp switch).
ECONOLINE: Not applicable - No roof marker lamps are installed.

3. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY STOP LAMP SWITCH AND TURN INDICATOR SWITCH
Two types of stop lamp switches are in use on Ford trucks: mechanical switch operated by brake pedal, and an air switch operated by air pressure in the brake system. These switches are designed for maximum loads usually less than the fuse or circuit breaker in the circuit but ample for normal stop lamp loads. These maximum loads are: 8 amps for air operated switches and 12.5 amps for mechanical switches (2004-up 15A). Under no circumstances are total loads in excess of these values permissible. All Ford light trucks are released with a mechanical stop lamp switch mounted on the brake pedal arm for Econoline, and on the pedal pin and master cylinder push rod for F-Series & Bronco. This switch has a maximum allowable electrical load of 12.5 amps.
a) If only stop lamp function is desired for the added lights, splice into the #810 circuit, red wire/black stripe for Econoline (#10 circuit, light green-red hash marks for F-Series) between the stop lamp switch and the turn indicator switch (2004-up YE-GN CLS43 at the blunt cut customer access wire located at the rear of the vehicle near trailer tow connector C4099).
b) If only turn signal function is desired for the added lights, connect right-hand lights to circuit #2 (white wire/blue stripe) and lefthanded lights to circuit #3 (green wire/white stripe). This connection can be made by splicing into the wires near the parking lights or near the steering column. (See note below).
c) If both turn signal and stop lamp function are desired for the added lights, splice into the taillamp loom, using circuit #282, green wire for Econoline (circuit #5, orange-light blue stripe for F-Series) for right-hand lights and circuit #283, yellow wire/black stripe for Econoline (circuit #9, light green-orange stripe for F-Series) for left-hand lights. (See note below.)
NOTE:
1. The early turn signal switch used on light trucks has a maximum rated current of 6.5 amps for right and left turning functions and 8.0 amps for stop lamp function. Do not exceed these values on the turn signals. The 2004-up turn signal switch is designed to use a low current to signal the SPDJB to activate turn signal and stop lamps. The switch is not designed to directly power any lamps or other electrical devices.
2. The turn signal and emergency flasher system on early light trucks utilizes two flashers, one for emergency flasher function. These flashers are designed to accommodate a two-light (4.2 amps) load for the turn signal flasher and a six-light load (12.6 amps) for the emergency flasher. If one additional 2.1-amp light is added to each side (total 6 lamps)the C8AB-13350-A turn signal flasher must be replaced with a C6AB-13350-B flasher. The addition of two 2.1-amp lamps to each side (total 8 lamps) will require replacing the existing two flashers with a single C8TB-13350-A transistorized flasher and, because of the complexity, is not recommended. The addition of lights without a flasher revision will result in a very fast, unacceptable flashing rate.
3. Do not splice into turn/stop circuits at SPDJB, or into turn circuits at multi-function switch. Splicing in those areas will damage the switch or cause the SPDJB to malfunction. Use the trailer tow circuits and trailer tow relays to power added turn/stop lights. Circuits are accessible at the rear of the vehicle LT/Stop=YE, RT/Stop=GN. Reverse/back-up lights must be tied-in using trailer tow relays and circuits in same manner as turn/stop lights.
4. Splicing into the stop lamp switch on vehicles with Electronically Controlled Transmissions can interfere with the proper functioning of PCM, speed control, and anti-lock brake electronic modules. This can:
- Affect EFI engine idle speed quality.
- Prevent the Powertrain Control Module torque converter clutch from applying at throttle openings less than half throttle.
- Deactivate anti-lock brake system operation
- Prevent the speed control from disengaging upon braking.

4. ADDED LIGHTS OR ACCESSORIES CONTROLLED BY ADDED SWITCHES
This section describes the connection points for added electrical accessories when these accessories are to be controlled by added switches not a part of the Ford-released vehicle. The added switches and wiring must have sufficient electrical capacity for the accessory load and must be protected by appropriate fuses or circuit breakers. Additional loads on Ford-provided fuses may cause nuisance fuse blows. Also, added current draw must not cause total loads to exceed capabilities of the base vehicle wiring.
For added electrical accessories that operate only when the ignition is on - terminate the feed wire from the hang-on switch in a bullet connector and plug into the three-way accessory plug (yellow) on the instrument panel harness (single black wire/green stripe). This circuit is protected and needs no additional fusing.

5. RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE (RFI)
During modifications to the vehicle, manufacturers should take the necessary precautions to maintain the RFI integrity of components. (Canada has an RFI regulation in effect, see page 226.) Precautionary procedures and components listed below are examples and do not necessarily represent a complete list.
a) All components required to suppress RFI emissions, which are removed during service, repair, or completion of the vehicle, must be reinstalled in the manner in which they were installed by Ford.
b) Shields on distributor and ignition coil use capacitors as required.
c) Replacement spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coils, distributor caps and distributor rotor must be equivalent in their RFI suppression properties to original equipment.
d) Electrical grounds on all components must be retained.
e) Metallic components installed on the body or chassis must be grounded to the chassis.
f) Electrical circuits added to the vehicle should not be installed near the high tension ignition components.
g) Only " static conductive" accessory drive belts should be used.
h) Fan, water pump, power steering and other belts should be of the OEM type or equivalent that will not build up a static electrical charge.
i) For any completed vehicle, additional measures may be needed to adequately suppress RFI emissions.
j) Guidance for installing two-way mobile radios can be found via the web at http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/Mobile_Radio_Guide.pdf .

6. GUIDELINES FOR POWERTRAIN CONTROL SYSTEM APPLICATIONS:
All Powertrain Control Module wiring, in particular the 12A581 and 14401, must be a minimum of 2 inches from secondary ignition coil wires and at least 4 inches from the distributor, ignition coil tower, and starter motor (and its wiring) as well as 4 inches from the alternator output wiring. These clearances apply in particular to all PCM sensor and actuator pigtail wiring. PCM wires shall not be in the same bundle as other high-current non-PCM circuits (e.g., tachometer wire from coil to Thick Film Ignition Module (TFI), power seat/door lock/window, horn, alternator reg.) for a distance of more than 20 inches.

7. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT:
The check engine warning light is a device required on certain vehicles to indicate malfunctions of the Powertrain Control Module. For all vehicles except ESeries Super Duty Stripped Chassis (which is not equipped with a dashboard), if a warning light is required, it is Ford installed and operational. The light is also required for all gasoline powered E-Series Super Duty Stripped Chassis vehicles. The warning lamp is included in the supplied instrument cluster, located in the dunnage box. It should be recognized that this light is a requirement of Emission Certification. If an alternate instrument cluster is utilized, the final stage manufacturer must install an operational light in the dashboard. This light must glow amber and display the message, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." Once the light has been completed by the final stage manufacturer, proper function can be determined by turning the key to the on position. The light should come on prior to engine cranking and go out when the engine starts. If the light does not come on as above, refer to Section 14 (Quick test step 7 - Diagnostics by Symptom) of Volume H (Engine and Emission Diagnostic Manual) of the Car and Truck Service Manual for diagnostic procedure.

After all electrical or vehicle modifications, perform the on-board diagnostics as described in the powertrain control/emissions diagnosis (PCED) manual to clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Road test vehicle and rerun the on-board diagnostics to verify that no DTCs are present.
If DTCs are generated, perform the appropriate diagnostic procedures and repairs. Vehicle operation (engine/transmission) may be affected if DTCs are not serviced.

It is the body builder's responsibility to use sound engineering judgment when making any modifications to a vehicle, and the body builder is responsible for ensuring that all modifications made are appropriate for the intended vehicle application.
NOTE: The final stage manufacturer is responsible for ensuring that the final vehicle configuration meets all applicable regulatory requirements.
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one of the main electrical pathways, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

Some vehicles also have large un-insulated woven wire straps joining large metal components, but those are not power grounds. Those are RFI grounds, used to reduce the amount of electromagnetic noise passing through those components.

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Blade Fuses

Fuses typically last over 100 hours at 110% of their rated current, and burn in less than 1sec above 125%. In other words: a 10A fuse won't blow at 11A, but it will blow before 13A. A 30A fuse blows between 34-38A.

A circuit breaker typically goes open-circuit AT its rated capacity.

See also:

. . .

Ford Circuit Modification PDF
Bussman Fuseology PDF
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one of the main electrical pathways, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

Some vehicles also have large un-insulated woven wire straps joining large metal components, but those are not power grounds. Those are RFI grounds, used to reduce the amount of electromagnetic noise passing through those components.
-----------------------------------------------------------
ELECTRICAL MODIFICATIONS:
1. All wiring additions and revisions should comply with procedures described below.
2. If horns are relocated, their location must be above the frame bottom with the bell mouth of each horn pointed down.
3. If the battery location is changed, the new location must be adequately ventilated, accessible for servicing, protected from road splash, and incorporate a shockless mounting.
4. If the battery location is changed requiring longer cables, a heavier wire gauge battery cable must be used.
5. If the original-equipment battery is replaced by more than one battery or a battery of a larger capacity, the battery charging and power supply circuit must be checked and revised to carry the additional loads.
6. Fog and driving lamps: state, provincial or local laws may regulate the manner in which the fog and driving lamps are used, or may require additional equipment for the particular use intended for the vehicle. It is the buyer's/owner's/operator's responsibility to determine the applicability of such laws to the intended use for the vehicle, and to arrange for the installation of required equipment.
7. Do not delete or deactivate the Center High Mount Stop Lamp unless it will be blocked by second unit body.
8. Adding high-current loading to the electrical system (such as A/C) will require an alternator with a minimum 60 Ampere rating.
Caution: The remote electronic voltage regulator base must always be connected to the battery, engine, and chassis ground when the ignition switch is in either the on or start position. The voltage regulator will be damaged if this connection does not exist when the ignition switch is energized.

ELECTRICAL WIRING SECTION
This section provides instructions for the addition and/or modification of electrical devices to the vehicle electrical system.

GENERAL PRACTICES
Vehicles stored on site should have the negative battery cable disconnected to minimize "Dead Battery" situation. This applies to both "incomplete" and "complete" vehicles in storage.

Federal and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (F/CMVSS) Requirements:
1. All Ford vehicles built and fully-completed by Ford comply with FMVSS and CMVSS No. 108, "Lamps, Reflective Devices and Associated Equipment" and other applicable FMVSS and CMVSS that affect electrical components.
2. Incomplete vehicle (i.e., chassis cab, stripped chassis, chassis cowl, etc.) will conform to these F/CMVSS according to the provisions and conditions stated in the Incomplete Vehicle Manual attached to each incomplete vehicle. Care must be taken that modifications do not conceal, alter or change components installed or provided by Ford Motor Company to achieve this conformance.
3. All vehicles powered by spark ignition internal combustion engines (e.g. gasoline or liquid petroleum gas engines) and manufactured for sale or use in Canada are subject to the Canadian "Regulations for the Control of Interference to Radio Reception," SOR / 75-629, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 109, No. 21, November 12, 1975, as amended by SOR / 77-860, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 111, No. 21, November 9, 1977, by SOR / 78-727, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 112, No. 18, September 27, 1978, and by SOR / 80-915, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 114, No. 23, December 10, 1980. Violation of these regulations is punishable by fine or imprisonment. Ford-built incomplete vehicles other than stripped chassis are designed and manufactured to be capable of meeting the regulatory requirements or such modifications thereof as may be authorized by the Canadian Department of Communications. However, because Ford has no control over how an incomplete vehicle is completed by subsequent stage manufacturers, Ford does not represent that the completed vehicle incorporating the Ford-built components will comply with applicable requirements.

Routing & Clamping:
1. It is strongly recommended that wiring in areas of heavy rework, or in areas where welding operations are to be performed, be removed prior to the rework operations and reinstalled after the rework is completed. If vehicle is equipped with an Electronic Engine Control System, the EEC module must be disconnected before any electrical welding is performed; otherwise, module damage may result. If wire removal is not practical, the wires must be shielded from damage due to the rework and welding heat. All components and wiring should be re-installed as closely as possible to the factory arrangement.
2. Wires routed through holes in sheet metal or castings must have the hole edges protected by a grommet or edge lacing.
3. Wires should be routed to avoid metal edges, screws, trim fasteners and abrasive surfaces. When such routings are not possible, protective devices (shields, caps, wire loom, etc.) must be used to protect the wires. When wires must cross a metal edge, the edge should be covered with a protective shield, and the wiring secured within three inches on each side of the edge.
4. Wires must be routed to provide at least three inches clearance to moving parts, unless positively fastened or protected by a conduit.
5. Wire routings should avoid areas where temperatures exceed 180°F, and a minimum clearance of six inches should be maintained from exhaust system components. Where compliance with this requirement is not possible, heat insulation and heat shields are required.
6. When wiring is routed between two members where relative motion can occur, the wiring should be secured to each member, with enough wire slack to allow flexing without damage to the wire.
7. Wiring to all circuit components (switches, relays, etc.) in exposed locations must provide a drip loop to prevent moisture from being conducted into the device via the wire connection.
8. Routing wires into areas exposed to wheel wash should be avoided. When such routings cannot be avoided, adequate clipping or protective shields are required to protect the wires from stone and ice damage.
9. Routing wires under the frame side members or at points lower than the bottom frame flange should be avoided to prevent damage to the wires from brush contact in off-road operations.
10. The wire retainers and grommets installed by the assembly plant are usually designed to accommodate only the Ford-installed wires. Additional wiring or tubing should be retained by additional clips. When added wires or tubes are routed through sheet metal panels, new holes (with proper wire protection and sealing) must be used.
11. All wiring connnections to components of the factory-installed system must be accomplished by using the proper mating wire termination. (Connections on studs and ground connections must use eyelet terminations, connections to female bullets must terminate in male bullets, etc. Scotch-Loks and other mechanical pierce connections are not acceptable.)

Splice/Repair:
1.Wire ends should be stripped making sure that individual conductor strands are not damaged. Corrosion of the strands must be cleaned away before splicing.
2. When soldering, make sure an adequate mechanical joint exists before applying solder. Use only rosin-core solder for electrical connections; never acid-core.
3. For crimp joints, use butt-type metal-barrel fasteners and a proper tool (such as Motorcraft crimp tool S-9796) specifically designed for this type of work, and for the size of the crimp.
4. Splice joints must be adequately sealed and insulated (except return/ground circuits). Heat shrink tubing is highly recommended to cover soldered and bare metal-barrel crimp joints. Quality electrical tape can be used inside the vehicle but is not recommended for an outside environment.
5. Seal the ends of insulated barrel crimp devices with a silicone grease or hot glue when in an outside environment.
6. The most-durable splice joint will be bare metal-barrel crimped, flow-soldered, and covered with adhesive shrink tubing. Use this type of joint as often as possible.

Circuit Protection:
1. Modification to existing vehicle wiring should be done only with extreme caution and consideration of effects on the completed vehicle electrical system. Anticipated circuitry should be studied to ensure that adequate circuit protection will exist and that feedback loops are not created.
2. Any added circuitry must have circuit protection (fuse or breaker); either via the base vehicle, or by the body builder.
3. When adding loads to a base vehicle protected circuit, make sure that the total electrical load thru the base vehicle fusible link, fuse, or breaker is less than that device's rating.
a) Total current draw is the sum of the base vehicle circuit current requirement (measured with an ammeter) and the anticipated add-on components' current requirements.
b) Never increase the rating of a factory-installed fuse or circuit breaker without either: increasing the entire circuit's gauge to accomodate the total current, or; wiring the circuit to split the load from the fuse output terminal. Never increase the fuse or C.B. rating above the rating of the fuse/C.B. socket terminal.
c) For added lamp loads, the "Bulb Chart" will aid in determination of common lamp current draws.
4. If the total electrical load on the circuit (after the addition of electrical equipment) s less than 80% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating in that circuit and less than the capacity of each limiting component (switch, relay, etc.), the items to be added can be connected directly to that circuit. For fuses located in the engine compartment, the electrical load should not exceed 60% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating.
5. If the total electrical load to be imposed on a circuit exceeds the value of the circuit protection, or the value of any limiting component, the items cannot be added directly to the circuit.
a) Added devices exceeding the current capabilities of the factory-installed system are best controlled through the use of a relay or hang-on switch. The coil of the relay (in accordance with the preceding limitations) can be fed from the factory circuit (now acting as a signal circuit) with added wiring providing feeds to the added electrical devices. (Relay selection is important and depends on: current requirements; number of cycles expected in the relay lifetime; whether the relay is to be operated intermittently or for long periods of time, and; whether the relay is exposed to weather conditions or is installed in a protected area. When the current requirements of a circuit exceed the capacity of an available relay, more than one relay can be used if the circuit is wired to split the load).
b) Added wire feeds to the switch or relay power contacts should not be tapped into the basic vehicle wiring. Draw and return power as close to the battery as possible (i.e., the starter motor relay, the engine block or frame, etc.).
c) Circuit protection (fuses or circuit breakers) must be provided for all added wiring. The protection device rating should not exceed the current requirements for the add-on components and should be installed as close to the point of tapped power as possible.
d) Never use the stud on the underhood fuse panel as a junction point.

Wire Gage:
1. When adding wiring, the wire gage size should be determined as follows:
a) Where wire is spliced to extend a circuit, the added wire should have a gauge equal to or lower (larger) that of the circuit being lengthened.
b) Where wire is being added to feed add-on devices, the wire gauge table should be used. (Note: Current capacity of a given wire varies with temperature and type of insulation. The table, however, represents generally accepted values as a guide).
2. Wherever possible, added wiring should have a thermosetting insulation (such as Hypalon or cross-linked polyethelyne/XLPE/PEX) meeting SAE specifications J1128 type SXL, GXL or TXL (SAE specifications J1127 type SGX or STX for battery cables).

WIRE GAGE MAXIMUM CURRENT CAPACITY
(PLASTIC INSULATED COPPER WIRE)
20ga - 10 Amps
18ga - 15 Amps
16ga - 20 Amps
14ga - 25 Amps
12ga - 30 Amps
10ga - 45 Amps

BULB CHART
BULB TRADE NUMBER CANDLE POWER CURRENT @ RATED VOLTAGE
90 6 .58 Amps
94 15 1.04 Amps
67/97 4 .69 Amps
97 N.A. .69 Amps
105 12 1.00 Amps
161 1 .19 Amps
168 3 .35 Amps
192 3 0.33 A @ 13.0V
194 2 .27 Amps
211-2 12 .97 Amps
212-2 6 .74 Amps
214-2 4 .50 Amps
561 12 .97 Amps
562 6 .74 Amps
573 32 2.00 Amps
578 9 0.78 A @ 12.8V
579 9 0.8 A @ 12.8V
631 6 .63 Amps
904 4 0.69 A @ 13.5V
904NA 5.3 0.69 A @ 13.5V
906 6 0.69 A @ 13.5V
912 12 1.0 A @ 12.8V
916 2 0.54 A @ 13.5V
916NA 1.5 0.54 A @ 13.5V
921 21 1.4 A @ 12.8V
922 15 0.98 A @ 12.8V
1076 32 1.80 Amps
1156 32 2.10 Amps
1157 (OR or N.A.) 32 /3 2.10/.59 Amps
1157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
1157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
1178 4 .69 Amps
1195 50 3.00 Amps
1196 50 3.00 Amps
1445 .7 .14 Amps
1815 1.4 .20 Amps
1816 3 .33 Amps
1891 2 .24 Amps
1892 .75 .12 Amps
1893 2 .33 Amps
1895 2 .27 Amps
3057 (major) 32 2.1 A@ 12.8V
3057 (minor) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
3155K 21 1.6 A @ 12.8V
3156 (P27W) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3456K 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (major) 30 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3457K (major) 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3757AK (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3757AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4000 37.5, 60 Watts 3.14, 5.04 Amps
4001 26,000 3.14 Amps
4002 21,000 Low 14,000 Hi 4.20, 3.14 Amps
4057K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
4157K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4405 50,000 2.58 Amps
4412 35 Watts 2.74 Amps
4414 18 Watts 1.41 Amps
H6054 35, 65 Watts 2.94, 5.46 Amps
4415 35 Watts 2.73 Amps
4416 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
4435 75,000 2.34 Amps
4475 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
6015 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.10, 4.97 Amps
6014 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.20, 4.97 Amps
6112 40, 50 Watts 3.10, 3.91 Amps
9003 (HB2) (low) 76 55W @ 12.0V
9003 (HB2) (high) 125 60W @ 12.0V
9005 (HB3) 135 65W @ 12.8V
9006 (HB4) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (low) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (high) 107 65W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (high) - 65W @ 12.8V
9140 48 40W @ 12.8V
9145 (H10) 65 45W @ 12.8V
W5W 4 0.4 A @ 12.0V
H1 117 55W @ 12.0V
H2 143 4.17 Amps
H3 121 55W @ 12.0V
H7 125 55W @ 12.0V
H9 167 65W @ 12.0V
H11 107 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (high) - 65W @ 12.8V

ADDING LIGHTS OR ELECTRICAL DEVICES
Although there are many points in the truck electrical system to connect additional circuits, certain connection points are recommended for reliability and convenience. This section defines the recommended connection points for each Ford truck model and the maximum electrical loads allowable. Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming non-functional. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable and remove it from the battery carrier prior to any vehicle modification. Upon completion of body or equipment installation, all wiring should be checked for proper routing, etc. to preclude electrical shorts upon reinstallation of the battery negative cable.
CAUTION: Improper electrical tie-ins may affect vehicle operation (i.e., engine, transmission).

1. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY HEADLAMP SWITCH
The headlamp switches on all Ford Light Trucks (F-150-350, Bronco, Econoline) employ one integral 15-amp circuit breaker for the headlight circuit, and one 15-amp fuse located in the fuse panel for auxiliary circuits. Connections to any point in the circuits controlled by the headlamp switch should be on the auxiliary fuse. Connections to the #12 circuit (headlamp hi-beam, green wire/black stripe), the # 13 circuit (headlamp low-beam, red wire/black stripe) and the #15 circuit (feed wire to dimmer switch, red wire/yellow stripe) should be avoided. If the total load on the headlamp circuit breaker exceeds the breaker rating, the headlamps will cycle on and off indicating the overload. If this occurs, a portion of the added lights must be wired through a relay, feeding the relay coil from the headlamp switch. On models equipped with marker lamp switches it is highly recommended added lights employ that circuitry.
F-150 THRU F-350 AND BRONCO
The feed for added lights to be controlled by the headlamp switch should be terminated in a female connector and be connected to the male take-out (brown wire #14 circuit) on the left-hand side of the instrument panel harness (near the emergency brake). If the vehicle has roof marker lights with dual battery option, this connector will be occupied. In the case of dual battery option, an additional connector (control by the relay) will be provided. In this case, fabricate a " Y" jumper to permit both connections to the single connector. Rear lights to be controlled by the headlight switch can be spliced into the #14 circuit (brown wire) at any point in the taillamp harness. NOTE: On trailer tow and camper option, a plug connector is provided at the left-hand rear frame to which taillamp connection can be made.
ECONOLINE
REAR LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in cross-over harness at rear of truck.
FRONT LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in 14401 wire asembly along right or left fender apron.
LATE-MODEL F-SUPER-DUTY
The head lamp switch used on the Super Duty F-Series vehicles is a low current switch designed to signal the SPDJB to activate all exterior lighting. The left- and righthand low beam lamps are then fused individually using a 10A fuse located in the SPDJB fuse box. The high beam lamps are fused using a separate 15A fuse while the interior lamps are fused using 10A fuses located in the SPDJB fuse box. A connection to any circuit in the system controlled by the head lamp switch must be done using an auxiliary relay. Any connection must be performed on the lighting output of the SPDJB additional load connected to the headlamp switch will damage the headlamp switch. A marker lamp relay circuit 962 for SUB additions is provided for convenience as standard equipment on chassis cabs, optional on pickups. Do not connect to other OEM wires. Adding additional loads to headlamp circuits may require SPDJB to be reconfigured for snowplow - TSB-7-9-1

2. ADDED LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY ROOF MARKER LAMP SWITCH
F-150 THRU F-350 - ALL MODELS: Not applicable - no roof marker lamp switch is installed. Roof marker lamps are controlled directly by the headlamp switch (except on camper, stake and platform models and /or dual battery option, whose marker lamps are controlled by an 18-amp relay which is operated by the headlamp switch).
ECONOLINE: Not applicable - No roof marker lamps are installed.

3. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY STOP LAMP SWITCH AND TURN INDICATOR SWITCH
Two types of stop lamp switches are in use on Ford trucks: mechanical switch operated by brake pedal, and an air switch operated by air pressure in the brake system. These switches are designed for maximum loads usually less than the fuse or circuit breaker in the circuit but ample for normal stop lamp loads. These maximum loads are: 8 amps for air operated switches and 12.5 amps for mechanical switches (2004-up 15A). Under no circumstances are total loads in excess of these values permissible. All Ford light trucks are released with a mechanical stop lamp switch mounted on the brake pedal arm for Econoline, and on the pedal pin and master cylinder push rod for F-Series & Bronco. This switch has a maximum allowable electrical load of 12.5 amps.
a) If only stop lamp function is desired for the added lights, splice into the #810 circuit, red wire/black stripe for Econoline (#10 circuit, light green-red hash marks for F-Series) between the stop lamp switch and the turn indicator switch (2004-up YE-GN CLS43 at the blunt cut customer access wire located at the rear of the vehicle near trailer tow connector C4099).
b) If only turn signal function is desired for the added lights, connect right-hand lights to circuit #2 (white wire/blue stripe) and lefthanded lights to circuit #3 (green wire/white stripe). This connection can be made by splicing into the wires near the parking lights or near the steering column. (See note below).
c) If both turn signal and stop lamp function are desired for the added lights, splice into the taillamp loom, using circuit #282, green wire for Econoline (circuit #5, orange-light blue stripe for F-Series) for right-hand lights and circuit #283, yellow wire/black stripe for Econoline (circuit #9, light green-orange stripe for F-Series) for left-hand lights. (See note below.)
NOTE:
1. The early turn signal switch used on light trucks has a maximum rated current of 6.5 amps for right and left turning functions and 8.0 amps for stop lamp function. Do not exceed these values on the turn signals. The 2004-up turn signal switch is designed to use a low current to signal the SPDJB to activate turn signal and stop lamps. The switch is not designed to directly power any lamps or other electrical devices.
2. The turn signal and emergency flasher system on early light trucks utilizes two flashers, one for emergency flasher function. These flashers are designed to accommodate a two-light (4.2 amps) load for the turn signal flasher and a six-light load (12.6 amps) for the emergency flasher. If one additional 2.1-amp light is added to each side (total 6 lamps)the C8AB-13350-A turn signal flasher must be replaced with a C6AB-13350-B flasher. The addition of two 2.1-amp lamps to each side (total 8 lamps) will require replacing the existing two flashers with a single C8TB-13350-A transistorized flasher and, because of the complexity, is not recommended. The addition of lights without a flasher revision will result in a very fast, unacceptable flashing rate.
3. Do not splice into turn/stop circuits at SPDJB, or into turn circuits at multi-function switch. Splicing in those areas will damage the switch or cause the SPDJB to malfunction. Use the trailer tow circuits and trailer tow relays to power added turn/stop lights. Circuits are accessible at the rear of the vehicle LT/Stop=YE, RT/Stop=GN. Reverse/back-up lights must be tied-in using trailer tow relays and circuits in same manner as turn/stop lights.
4. Splicing into the stop lamp switch on vehicles with Electronically Controlled Transmissions can interfere with the proper functioning of PCM, speed control, and anti-lock brake electronic modules. This can:
- Affect EFI engine idle speed quality.
- Prevent the Powertrain Control Module torque converter clutch from applying at throttle openings less than half throttle.
- Deactivate anti-lock brake system operation
- Prevent the speed control from disengaging upon braking.

4. ADDED LIGHTS OR ACCESSORIES CONTROLLED BY ADDED SWITCHES
This section describes the connection points for added electrical accessories when these accessories are to be controlled by added switches not a part of the Ford-released vehicle. The added switches and wiring must have sufficient electrical capacity for the accessory load and must be protected by appropriate fuses or circuit breakers. Additional loads on Ford-provided fuses may cause nuisance fuse blows. Also, added current draw must not cause total loads to exceed capabilities of the base vehicle wiring.
For added electrical accessories that operate only when the ignition is on - terminate the feed wire from the hang-on switch in a bullet connector and plug into the three-way accessory plug (yellow) on the instrument panel harness (single black wire/green stripe). This circuit is protected and needs no additional fusing.

5. RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE (RFI)
During modifications to the vehicle, manufacturers should take the necessary precautions to maintain the RFI integrity of components. (Canada has an RFI regulation in effect, see page 226.) Precautionary procedures and components listed below are examples and do not necessarily represent a complete list.
a) All components required to suppress RFI emissions, which are removed during service, repair, or completion of the vehicle, must be reinstalled in the manner in which they were installed by Ford.
b) Shields on distributor and ignition coil use capacitors as required.
c) Replacement spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coils, distributor caps and distributor rotor must be equivalent in their RFI suppression properties to original equipment.
d) Electrical grounds on all components must be retained.
e) Metallic components installed on the body or chassis must be grounded to the chassis.
f) Electrical circuits added to the vehicle should not be installed near the high tension ignition components.
g) Only " static conductive" accessory drive belts should be used.
h) Fan, water pump, power steering and other belts should be of the OEM type or equivalent that will not build up a static electrical charge.
i) For any completed vehicle, additional measures may be needed to adequately suppress RFI emissions.
j) Guidance for installing two-way mobile radios can be found via the web at http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/Mobile_Radio_Guide.pdf .

6. GUIDELINES FOR POWERTRAIN CONTROL SYSTEM APPLICATIONS:
All Powertrain Control Module wiring, in particular the 12A581 and 14401, must be a minimum of 2 inches from secondary ignition coil wires and at least 4 inches from the distributor, ignition coil tower, and starter motor (and its wiring) as well as 4 inches from the alternator output wiring. These clearances apply in particular to all PCM sensor and actuator pigtail wiring. PCM wires shall not be in the same bundle as other high-current non-PCM circuits (e.g., tachometer wire from coil to Thick Film Ignition Module (TFI), power seat/door lock/window, horn, alternator reg.) for a distance of more than 20 inches.

7. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT:
The check engine warning light is a device required on certain vehicles to indicate malfunctions of the Powertrain Control Module. For all vehicles except ESeries Super Duty Stripped Chassis (which is not equipped with a dashboard), if a warning light is required, it is Ford installed and operational. The light is also required for all gasoline powered E-Series Super Duty Stripped Chassis vehicles. The warning lamp is included in the supplied instrument cluster, located in the dunnage box. It should be recognized that this light is a requirement of Emission Certification. If an alternate instrument cluster is utilized, the final stage manufacturer must install an operational light in the dashboard. This light must glow amber and display the message, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." Once the light has been completed by the final stage manufacturer, proper function can be determined by turning the key to the on position. The light should come on prior to engine cranking and go out when the engine starts. If the light does not come on as above, refer to Section 14 (Quick test step 7 - Diagnostics by Symptom) of Volume H (Engine and Emission Diagnostic Manual) of the Car and Truck Service Manual for diagnostic procedure.

After all electrical or vehicle modifications, perform the on-board diagnostics as described in the powertrain control/emissions diagnosis (PCED) manual to clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Road test vehicle and rerun the on-board diagnostics to verify that no DTCs are present.
If DTCs are generated, perform the appropriate diagnostic procedures and repairs. Vehicle operation (engine/transmission) may be affected if DTCs are not serviced.

It is the body builder's responsibility to use sound engineering judgment when making any modifications to a vehicle, and the body builder is responsible for ensuring that all modifications made are appropriate for the intended vehicle application.
NOTE: The final stage manufacturer is responsible for ensuring that the final vehicle configuration meets all applicable regulatory requirements.

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Fusible Link Wire Repair

Ford - - - - - - Standard
- - - - - - - - - - Orange - - - - 22ga. - 0.35mm
Blue - - - - - - Gray - - - - - - 20ga. - 0.5mm
Brown/Red - Blue - - - - - - 18ga. - 0.8mm
Orange - - - - Black - - - - - 16ga. - 1.0mm
Green - - - - - Gray - - - - - - 14ga. - 2.0mm
Gray - - - - - - Blue - - - - - - 12ga. - 3.0mm
- - - - - - - - - - Orange - - - - 10ga. - 5.0mm
- - - - - - - - - - Black - - - - - - - 8ga. - 8.0mm

Fusible link wire is normal wire with special insulation designed to contain the heat, spark, and melted metal when the wire burns from excessive current draw. Fusible link wire is not rated in Amperes since its characteristics are less-obvious, but it is typically 4 gauges (AWG) smaller (higher number) than the circuit it protects. Although many vehicles now use MEGA or MAXI fuses where older vehicles used fusible link wire, replacing older fusible links with fuses is not recommended unless the rest of the wiring is upgraded to match the newer arrangement. Never replace a fuse with fusible link wire. In an emergency, smaller-gauge wire may be temporarily substituted for fusible link wire until an appropriate repair can be made.

- When the diameter of a wire is doubled, the AWG will decrease by 6. (e.g., No. 18 AWG is about twice the diameter of No. 24 AWG.)
- When the cross-sectional area of a wire is doubled, the AWG will decrease by 3. (e.g., two No. 18 AWG wires have about the same cross-sectional area as a single No. 15 AWG wire.)
- When gauge is decreased by ten gauge numbers (from No. 18 to 8 ), the area and weight increase, and the resistance decreases, by a factor of approximately 10.

See also:
. . . .
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf
WikiPedia American Wire Gauge
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ELECTRICAL MODIFICATIONS:
1. All wiring additions and revisions should comply with procedures described below.
2. If horns are relocated, their location must be above the frame bottom with the bell mouth of each horn pointed down.
3. If the battery location is changed, the new location must be adequately ventilated, accessible for servicing, protected from road splash, and incorporate a shockless mounting.
4. If the battery location is changed requiring longer cables, a heavier wire gauge battery cable must be used.
5. If the original-equipment battery is replaced by more than one battery or a battery of a larger capacity, the battery charging and power supply circuit must be checked and revised to carry the additional loads.
6. Fog and driving lamps: state, provincial or local laws may regulate the manner in which the fog and driving lamps are used, or may require additional equipment for the particular use intended for the vehicle. It is the buyer's/owner's/operator's responsibility to determine the applicability of such laws to the intended use for the vehicle, and to arrange for the installation of required equipment.
7. Do not delete or deactivate the Center High Mount Stop Lamp unless it will be blocked by second unit body.
8. Adding high-current loading to the electrical system (such as A/C) will require an alternator with a minimum 60 Ampere rating.
Caution: The remote electronic voltage regulator base must always be connected to the battery, engine, and chassis ground when the ignition switch is in either the on or start position. The voltage regulator will be damaged if this connection does not exist when the ignition switch is energized.

ELECTRICAL WIRING SECTION
This section provides instructions for the addition and/or modification of electrical devices to the vehicle electrical system.

GENERAL PRACTICES
Vehicles stored on site should have the negative battery cable disconnected to minimize "Dead Battery" situation. This applies to both "incomplete" and "complete" vehicles in storage.

Federal and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (F/CMVSS) Requirements:
1. All Ford vehicles built and fully-completed by Ford comply with FMVSS and CMVSS No. 108, "Lamps, Reflective Devices and Associated Equipment" and other applicable FMVSS and CMVSS that affect electrical components.
2. Incomplete vehicle (i.e., chassis cab, stripped chassis, chassis cowl, etc.) will conform to these F/CMVSS according to the provisions and conditions stated in the Incomplete Vehicle Manual attached to each incomplete vehicle. Care must be taken that modifications do not conceal, alter or change components installed or provided by Ford Motor Company to achieve this conformance.
3. All vehicles powered by spark ignition internal combustion engines (e.g. gasoline or liquid petroleum gas engines) and manufactured for sale or use in Canada are subject to the Canadian "Regulations for the Control of Interference to Radio Reception," SOR / 75-629, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 109, No. 21, November 12, 1975, as amended by SOR / 77-860, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 111, No. 21, November 9, 1977, by SOR / 78-727, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 112, No. 18, September 27, 1978, and by SOR / 80-915, Canada Gazette Part II, Vol. 114, No. 23, December 10, 1980. Violation of these regulations is punishable by fine or imprisonment. Ford-built incomplete vehicles other than stripped chassis are designed and manufactured to be capable of meeting the regulatory requirements or such modifications thereof as may be authorized by the Canadian Department of Communications. However, because Ford has no control over how an incomplete vehicle is completed by subsequent stage manufacturers, Ford does not represent that the completed vehicle incorporating the Ford-built components will comply with applicable requirements.

Routing & Clamping:
1. It is strongly recommended that wiring in areas of heavy rework, or in areas where welding operations are to be performed, be removed prior to the rework operations and reinstalled after the rework is completed. If vehicle is equipped with an Electronic Engine Control System, the EEC module must be disconnected before any electrical welding is performed; otherwise, module damage may result. If wire removal is not practical, the wires must be shielded from damage due to the rework and welding heat. All components and wiring should be re-installed as closely as possible to the factory arrangement.
2. Wires routed through holes in sheet metal or castings must have the hole edges protected by a grommet or edge lacing.
3. Wires should be routed to avoid metal edges, screws, trim fasteners and abrasive surfaces. When such routings are not possible, protective devices (shields, caps, wire loom, etc.) must be used to protect the wires. When wires must cross a metal edge, the edge should be covered with a protective shield, and the wiring secured within three inches on each side of the edge.
4. Wires must be routed to provide at least three inches clearance to moving parts, unless positively fastened or protected by a conduit.
5. Wire routings should avoid areas where temperatures exceed 180°F, and a minimum clearance of six inches should be maintained from exhaust system components. Where compliance with this requirement is not possible, heat insulation and heat shields are required.
6. When wiring is routed between two members where relative motion can occur, the wiring should be secured to each member, with enough wire slack to allow flexing without damage to the wire.
7. Wiring to all circuit components (switches, relays, etc.) in exposed locations must provide a drip loop to prevent moisture from being conducted into the device via the wire connection.
8. Routing wires into areas exposed to wheel wash should be avoided. When such routings cannot be avoided, adequate clipping or protective shields are required to protect the wires from stone and ice damage.
9. Routing wires under the frame side members or at points lower than the bottom frame flange should be avoided to prevent damage to the wires from brush contact in off-road operations.
10. The wire retainers and grommets installed by the assembly plant are usually designed to accommodate only the Ford-installed wires. Additional wiring or tubing should be retained by additional clips. When added wires or tubes are routed through sheet metal panels, new holes (with proper wire protection and sealing) must be used.
11. All wiring connnections to components of the factory-installed system must be accomplished by using the proper mating wire termination. (Connections on studs and ground connections must use eyelet terminations, connections to female bullets must terminate in male bullets, etc. Scotch-Loks and other mechanical pierce connections are not acceptable.)

Splice/Repair:
1.Wire ends should be stripped making sure that individual conductor strands are not damaged. Corrosion of the strands must be cleaned away before splicing.
2. When soldering, make sure an adequate mechanical joint exists before applying solder. Use only rosin-core solder for electrical connections; never acid-core.
3. For crimp joints, use butt-type metal-barrel fasteners and a proper tool (such as Motorcraft crimp tool S-9796) specifically designed for this type of work, and for the size of the crimp.
4. Splice joints must be adequately sealed and insulated (except return/ground circuits). Heat shrink tubing is highly recommended to cover soldered and bare metal-barrel crimp joints. Quality electrical tape can be used inside the vehicle but is not recommended for an outside environment.
5. Seal the ends of insulated barrel crimp devices with a silicone grease or hot glue when in an outside environment.
6. The most-durable splice joint will be bare metal-barrel crimped, flow-soldered, and covered with adhesive shrink tubing. Use this type of joint as often as possible.

Circuit Protection:
1. Modification to existing vehicle wiring should be done only with extreme caution and consideration of effects on the completed vehicle electrical system. Anticipated circuitry should be studied to ensure that adequate circuit protection will exist and that feedback loops are not created.
2. Any added circuitry must have circuit protection (fuse or breaker); either via the base vehicle, or by the body builder.
3. When adding loads to a base vehicle protected circuit, make sure that the total electrical load thru the base vehicle fusible link, fuse, or breaker is less than that device's rating.
a) Total current draw is the sum of the base vehicle circuit current requirement (measured with an ammeter) and the anticipated add-on components' current requirements.
b) Never increase the rating of a factory-installed fuse or circuit breaker without either: increasing the entire circuit's gauge to accomodate the total current, or; wiring the circuit to split the load from the fuse output terminal. Never increase the fuse or C.B. rating above the rating of the fuse/C.B. socket terminal.
c) For added lamp loads, the "Bulb Chart" will aid in determination of common lamp current draws.
4. If the total electrical load on the circuit (after the addition of electrical equipment) s less than 80% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating in that circuit and less than the capacity of each limiting component (switch, relay, etc.), the items to be added can be connected directly to that circuit. For fuses located in the engine compartment, the electrical load should not exceed 60% of the fuse or circuit breaker protection rating.
5. If the total electrical load to be imposed on a circuit exceeds the value of the circuit protection, or the value of any limiting component, the items cannot be added directly to the circuit.
a) Added devices exceeding the current capabilities of the factory-installed system are best controlled through the use of a relay or hang-on switch. The coil of the relay (in accordance with the preceding limitations) can be fed from the factory circuit (now acting as a signal circuit) with added wiring providing feeds to the added electrical devices. (Relay selection is important and depends on: current requirements; number of cycles expected in the relay lifetime; whether the relay is to be operated intermittently or for long periods of time, and; whether the relay is exposed to weather conditions or is installed in a protected area. When the current requirements of a circuit exceed the capacity of an available relay, more than one relay can be used if the circuit is wired to split the load).
b) Added wire feeds to the switch or relay power contacts should not be tapped into the basic vehicle wiring. Draw and return power as close to the battery as possible (i.e., the starter motor relay, the engine block or frame, etc.).
c) Circuit protection (fuses or circuit breakers) must be provided for all added wiring. The protection device rating should not exceed the current requirements for the add-on components and should be installed as close to the point of tapped power as possible.
d) Never use the stud on the underhood fuse panel as a junction point.

Wire Gage:
1. When adding wiring, the wire gage size should be determined as follows:
a) Where wire is spliced to extend a circuit, the added wire should have a gauge equal to or lower (larger) that of the circuit being lengthened.
b) Where wire is being added to feed add-on devices, the wire gauge table should be used. (Note: Current capacity of a given wire varies with temperature and type of insulation. The table, however, represents generally accepted values as a guide).
2. Wherever possible, added wiring should have a thermosetting insulation (such as Hypalon or cross-linked polyethelyne/XLPE/PEX) meeting SAE specifications J1128 type SXL, GXL or TXL (SAE specifications J1127 type SGX or STX for battery cables).

WIRE GAGE MAXIMUM CURRENT CAPACITY
(PLASTIC INSULATED COPPER WIRE)
20ga - 10 Amps
18ga - 15 Amps
16ga - 20 Amps
14ga - 25 Amps
12ga - 30 Amps
10ga - 45 Amps

BULB CHART
BULB TRADE NUMBER CANDLE POWER CURRENT @ RATED VOLTAGE
90 6 .58 Amps
94 15 1.04 Amps
67/97 4 .69 Amps
97 N.A. .69 Amps
105 12 1.00 Amps
161 1 .19 Amps
168 3 .35 Amps
192 3 0.33 A @ 13.0V
194 2 .27 Amps
211-2 12 .97 Amps
212-2 6 .74 Amps
214-2 4 .50 Amps
561 12 .97 Amps
562 6 .74 Amps
573 32 2.00 Amps
578 9 0.78 A @ 12.8V
579 9 0.8 A @ 12.8V
631 6 .63 Amps
904 4 0.69 A @ 13.5V
904NA 5.3 0.69 A @ 13.5V
906 6 0.69 A @ 13.5V
912 12 1.0 A @ 12.8V
916 2 0.54 A @ 13.5V
916NA 1.5 0.54 A @ 13.5V
921 21 1.4 A @ 12.8V
922 15 0.98 A @ 12.8V
1076 32 1.80 Amps
1156 32 2.10 Amps
1157 (OR or N.A.) 32 /3 2.10/.59 Amps
1157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
1157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
1178 4 .69 Amps
1195 50 3.00 Amps
1196 50 3.00 Amps
1445 .7 .14 Amps
1815 1.4 .20 Amps
1816 3 .33 Amps
1891 2 .24 Amps
1892 .75 .12 Amps
1893 2 .33 Amps
1895 2 .27 Amps
3057 (major) 32 2.1 A@ 12.8V
3057 (minor) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
3155K 21 1.6 A @ 12.8V
3156 (P27W) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157 (P27/2W) (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157A (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157A (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3157K (major) 32 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3456K 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (major) 30 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3457K (major) 40 2.23 A @ 12.8V
3457K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
3757AK (major) 24 2.1 A @ 12.8V
3757AK (minor) 2.2 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4000 37.5, 60 Watts 3.14, 5.04 Amps
4001 26,000 3.14 Amps
4002 21,000 Low 14,000 Hi 4.20, 3.14 Amps
4057K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4057K (minor) 2 0.48 A @ 14.0V
4157K (major) 32 2.23 A @ 12.8V
4157K (minor) 3 0.59 A @ 14.0V
4405 50,000 2.58 Amps
4412 35 Watts 2.74 Amps
4414 18 Watts 1.41 Amps
H6054 35, 65 Watts 2.94, 5.46 Amps
4415 35 Watts 2.73 Amps
4416 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
4435 75,000 2.34 Amps
4475 30 Watts 2.34 Amps
6015 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.10, 4.97 Amps
6014 27,500 Low 30,000 Hi 4.20, 4.97 Amps
6112 40, 50 Watts 3.10, 3.91 Amps
9003 (HB2) (low) 76 55W @ 12.0V
9003 (HB2) (high) 125 60W @ 12.0V
9005 (HB3) 135 65W @ 12.8V
9006 (HB4) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (low) 80 55W @ 12.8V
9007 (HB5) (high) 107 65W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
9008 (H13) (high) - 65W @ 12.8V
9140 48 40W @ 12.8V
9145 (H10) 65 45W @ 12.8V
W5W 4 0.4 A @ 12.0V
H1 117 55W @ 12.0V
H2 143 4.17 Amps
H3 121 55W @ 12.0V
H7 125 55W @ 12.0V
H9 167 65W @ 12.0V
H11 107 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (low) - 55W @ 12.8V
H6054 (high) - 65W @ 12.8V

ADDING LIGHTS OR ELECTRICAL DEVICES
Although there are many points in the truck electrical system to connect additional circuits, certain connection points are recommended for reliability and convenience. This section defines the recommended connection points for each Ford truck model and the maximum electrical loads allowable. Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming non-functional. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable and remove it from the battery carrier prior to any vehicle modification. Upon completion of body or equipment installation, all wiring should be checked for proper routing, etc. to preclude electrical shorts upon reinstallation of the battery negative cable.
CAUTION: Improper electrical tie-ins may affect vehicle operation (i.e., engine, transmission).

1. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY HEADLAMP SWITCH
The headlamp switches on all Ford Light Trucks (F-150-350, Bronco, Econoline) employ one integral 15-amp circuit breaker for the headlight circuit, and one 15-amp fuse located in the fuse panel for auxiliary circuits. Connections to any point in the circuits controlled by the headlamp switch should be on the auxiliary fuse. Connections to the #12 circuit (headlamp hi-beam, green wire/black stripe), the # 13 circuit (headlamp low-beam, red wire/black stripe) and the #15 circuit (feed wire to dimmer switch, red wire/yellow stripe) should be avoided. If the total load on the headlamp circuit breaker exceeds the breaker rating, the headlamps will cycle on and off indicating the overload. If this occurs, a portion of the added lights must be wired through a relay, feeding the relay coil from the headlamp switch. On models equipped with marker lamp switches it is highly recommended added lights employ that circuitry.
F-150 THRU F-350 AND BRONCO
The feed for added lights to be controlled by the headlamp switch should be terminated in a female connector and be connected to the male take-out (brown wire #14 circuit) on the left-hand side of the instrument panel harness (near the emergency brake). If the vehicle has roof marker lights with dual battery option, this connector will be occupied. In the case of dual battery option, an additional connector (control by the relay) will be provided. In this case, fabricate a " Y" jumper to permit both connections to the single connector. Rear lights to be controlled by the headlight switch can be spliced into the #14 circuit (brown wire) at any point in the taillamp harness. NOTE: On trailer tow and camper option, a plug connector is provided at the left-hand rear frame to which taillamp connection can be made.
ECONOLINE
REAR LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in cross-over harness at rear of truck.
FRONT LIGHTS: Splice into #285 circuit (brown) in 14401 wire asembly along right or left fender apron.
LATE-MODEL F-SUPER-DUTY
The head lamp switch used on the Super Duty F-Series vehicles is a low current switch designed to signal the SPDJB to activate all exterior lighting. The left- and righthand low beam lamps are then fused individually using a 10A fuse located in the SPDJB fuse box. The high beam lamps are fused using a separate 15A fuse while the interior lamps are fused using 10A fuses located in the SPDJB fuse box. A connection to any circuit in the system controlled by the head lamp switch must be done using an auxiliary relay. Any connection must be performed on the lighting output of the SPDJB additional load connected to the headlamp switch will damage the headlamp switch. A marker lamp relay circuit 962 for SUB additions is provided for convenience as standard equipment on chassis cabs, optional on pickups. Do not connect to other OEM wires. Adding additional loads to headlamp circuits may require SPDJB to be reconfigured for snowplow - TSB-7-9-1

2. ADDED LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY ROOF MARKER LAMP SWITCH
F-150 THRU F-350 - ALL MODELS: Not applicable - no roof marker lamp switch is installed. Roof marker lamps are controlled directly by the headlamp switch (except on camper, stake and platform models and /or dual battery option, whose marker lamps are controlled by an 18-amp relay which is operated by the headlamp switch).
ECONOLINE: Not applicable - No roof marker lamps are installed.

3. LIGHTS CONTROLLED BY STOP LAMP SWITCH AND TURN INDICATOR SWITCH
Two types of stop lamp switches are in use on Ford trucks: mechanical switch operated by brake pedal, and an air switch operated by air pressure in the brake system. These switches are designed for maximum loads usually less than the fuse or circuit breaker in the circuit but ample for normal stop lamp loads. These maximum loads are: 8 amps for air operated switches and 12.5 amps for mechanical switches (2004-up 15A). Under no circumstances are total loads in excess of these values permissible. All Ford light trucks are released with a mechanical stop lamp switch mounted on the brake pedal arm for Econoline, and on the pedal pin and master cylinder push rod for F-Series & Bronco. This switch has a maximum allowable electrical load of 12.5 amps.
a) If only stop lamp function is desired for the added lights, splice into the #810 circuit, red wire/black stripe for Econoline (#10 circuit, light green-red hash marks for F-Series) between the stop lamp switch and the turn indicator switch (2004-up YE-GN CLS43 at the blunt cut customer access wire located at the rear of the vehicle near trailer tow connector C4099).
b) If only turn signal function is desired for the added lights, connect right-hand lights to circuit #2 (white wire/blue stripe) and lefthanded lights to circuit #3 (green wire/white stripe). This connection can be made by splicing into the wires near the parking lights or near the steering column. (See note below).
c) If both turn signal and stop lamp function are desired for the added lights, splice into the taillamp loom, using circuit #282, green wire for Econoline (circuit #5, orange-light blue stripe for F-Series) for right-hand lights and circuit #283, yellow wire/black stripe for Econoline (circuit #9, light green-orange stripe for F-Series) for left-hand lights. (See note below.)
NOTE:
1. The early turn signal switch used on light trucks has a maximum rated current of 6.5 amps for right and left turning functions and 8.0 amps for stop lamp function. Do not exceed these values on the turn signals. The 2004-up turn signal switch is designed to use a low current to signal the SPDJB to activate turn signal and stop lamps. The switch is not designed to directly power any lamps or other electrical devices.
2. The turn signal and emergency flasher system on early light trucks utilizes two flashers, one for emergency flasher function. These flashers are designed to accommodate a two-light (4.2 amps) load for the turn signal flasher and a six-light load (12.6 amps) for the emergency flasher. If one additional 2.1-amp light is added to each side (total 6 lamps)the C8AB-13350-A turn signal flasher must be replaced with a C6AB-13350-B flasher. The addition of two 2.1-amp lamps to each side (total 8 lamps) will require replacing the existing two flashers with a single C8TB-13350-A transistorized flasher and, because of the complexity, is not recommended. The addition of lights without a flasher revision will result in a very fast, unacceptable flashing rate.
3. Do not splice into turn/stop circuits at SPDJB, or into turn circuits at multi-function switch. Splicing in those areas will damage the switch or cause the SPDJB to malfunction. Use the trailer tow circuits and trailer tow relays to power added turn/stop lights. Circuits are accessible at the rear of the vehicle LT/Stop=YE, RT/Stop=GN. Reverse/back-up lights must be tied-in using trailer tow relays and circuits in same manner as turn/stop lights.
4. Splicing into the stop lamp switch on vehicles with Electronically Controlled Transmissions can interfere with the proper functioning of PCM, speed control, and anti-lock brake electronic modules. This can:
- Affect EFI engine idle speed quality.
- Prevent the Powertrain Control Module torque converter clutch from applying at throttle openings less than half throttle.
- Deactivate anti-lock brake system operation
- Prevent the speed control from disengaging upon braking.

4. ADDED LIGHTS OR ACCESSORIES CONTROLLED BY ADDED SWITCHES
This section describes the connection points for added electrical accessories when these accessories are to be controlled by added switches not a part of the Ford-released vehicle. The added switches and wiring must have sufficient electrical capacity for the accessory load and must be protected by appropriate fuses or circuit breakers. Additional loads on Ford-provided fuses may cause nuisance fuse blows. Also, added current draw must not cause total loads to exceed capabilities of the base vehicle wiring.
For added electrical accessories that operate only when the ignition is on - terminate the feed wire from the hang-on switch in a bullet connector and plug into the three-way accessory plug (yellow) on the instrument panel harness (single black wire/green stripe). This circuit is protected and needs no additional fusing.

5. RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE (RFI)
During modifications to the vehicle, manufacturers should take the necessary precautions to maintain the RFI integrity of components. (Canada has an RFI regulation in effect, see page 226.) Precautionary procedures and components listed below are examples and do not necessarily represent a complete list.
a) All components required to suppress RFI emissions, which are removed during service, repair, or completion of the vehicle, must be reinstalled in the manner in which they were installed by Ford.
b) Shields on distributor and ignition coil use capacitors as required.
c) Replacement spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coils, distributor caps and distributor rotor must be equivalent in their RFI suppression properties to original equipment.
d) Electrical grounds on all components must be retained.
e) Metallic components installed on the body or chassis must be grounded to the chassis.
f) Electrical circuits added to the vehicle should not be installed near the high tension ignition components.
g) Only " static conductive" accessory drive belts should be used.
h) Fan, water pump, power steering and other belts should be of the OEM type or equivalent that will not build up a static electrical charge.
i) For any completed vehicle, additional measures may be needed to adequately suppress RFI emissions.
j) Guidance for installing two-way mobile radios can be found via the web at http://www.fordemc.com/docs/download/Mobile_Radio_Guide.pdf .

6. GUIDELINES FOR POWERTRAIN CONTROL SYSTEM APPLICATIONS:
All Powertrain Control Module wiring, in particular the 12A581 and 14401, must be a minimum of 2 inches from secondary ignition coil wires and at least 4 inches from the distributor, ignition coil tower, and starter motor (and its wiring) as well as 4 inches from the alternator output wiring. These clearances apply in particular to all PCM sensor and actuator pigtail wiring. PCM wires shall not be in the same bundle as other high-current non-PCM circuits (e.g., tachometer wire from coil to Thick Film Ignition Module (TFI), power seat/door lock/window, horn, alternator reg.) for a distance of more than 20 inches.

7. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT:
The check engine warning light is a device required on certain vehicles to indicate malfunctions of the Powertrain Control Module. For all vehicles except ESeries Super Duty Stripped Chassis (which is not equipped with a dashboard), if a warning light is required, it is Ford installed and operational. The light is also required for all gasoline powered E-Series Super Duty Stripped Chassis vehicles. The warning lamp is included in the supplied instrument cluster, located in the dunnage box. It should be recognized that this light is a requirement of Emission Certification. If an alternate instrument cluster is utilized, the final stage manufacturer must install an operational light in the dashboard. This light must glow amber and display the message, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." Once the light has been completed by the final stage manufacturer, proper function can be determined by turning the key to the on position. The light should come on prior to engine cranking and go out when the engine starts. If the light does not come on as above, refer to Section 14 (Quick test step 7 - Diagnostics by Symptom) of Volume H (Engine and Emission Diagnostic Manual) of the Car and Truck Service Manual for diagnostic procedure.

After all electrical or vehicle modifications, perform the on-board diagnostics as described in the powertrain control/emissions diagnosis (PCED) manual to clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Road test vehicle and rerun the on-board diagnostics to verify that no DTCs are present.
If DTCs are generated, perform the appropriate diagnostic procedures and repairs. Vehicle operation (engine/transmission) may be affected if DTCs are not serviced.

It is the body builder's responsibility to use sound engineering judgment when making any modifications to a vehicle, and the body builder is responsible for ensuring that all modifications made are appropriate for the intended vehicle application.
NOTE: The final stage manufacturer is responsible for ensuring that the final vehicle configuration meets all applicable regulatory requirements.
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one of the main electrical pathways, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

Some vehicles also have large un-insulated woven wire straps joining large metal components, but those are not power grounds. Those are RFI grounds, used to reduce the amount of electromagnetic noise passing through those components.

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EEC Power Relays
Ford Standard was replaced in F-series & Broncos in 1992 by ISO (International Standards Organization)/Bosch (now owned by Tyco).

The Ford EEC PWR relay connects pin 4 (B ) to pin 3 (load) when the coil is energized by pin 2 (trigger positive) having ~ 9~ 16V relative to pin 1 (trigger ground).
The ISO relay switches pin 30 (input) between pin 87a (NC; when the trigger coil is NOT energized) and pin 87 (NO; when energized) when there is ~9~16V difference between pins 85 (typically the lower voltage/ground) and 86 (typically the higher voltage/B ).

Most wiring diagrams are available free here:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
The required e-mail is not checked, so it doesn't have to be yours or real. Click the red WIRING DIAGRAMS button when you see it.

See also:
. .

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92 Bronco & F-series Fuses
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I goofed - fuse H is a MAXI.

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html (E-mail required, but it doesn't have to be your real one. Switch to WIRING DIAGRAMS.)
. . . . . . . .

http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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93 Bronco & F-series Fuses
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html (E-mail required, but it doesn't have to be your real one. Switch to WIRING DIAGRAMS.)
. . . . . . . .

http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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94 Bronco & F-series Fuses
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I goofed - fuse H is a MAXI.

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html (E-mail required, but it doesn't have to be your real one. Switch to WIRING DIAGRAMS.)
. . . . . . . . . .

http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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'95 F-series Fuses & Relays
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

ERROR: Fuse B is not used, except in Lightning F150s it's a 15A for the fog lamp relay.

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html (E-mail required, but it doesn't have to be your real one. Switch to WIRING DIAGRAMS.)
. . . . . . . . . .

http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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'95 Bronco Fuses & Relays
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

F-150 similar, but has RABS on different fuses (no relays) instead of 4WABS on fuses & relays.

See also:
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html (E-mail required, but it doesn't have to be your real one. Switch to WIRING DIAGRAMS.)
. . . . . . . . . .

http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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'96 Fuses Bronco & F-series
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I goofed - fuse H is a MAXI.

See also:
. . . . . . . .

http://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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Courtesy Lamps 92 Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that '92-93 Broncos' & F-series' left front courtesy switch is a rare plastic design (Standard DS838) located at the bottom of the B-pillar (instead of the metal design in the lower A-pillar for all other years '80-96/7). From '94-96/7, the driver's switch (Motorcraft SW6345) returned to the lower A-pillar, like the RIGHT switch always was.

. . . . . . . . . .
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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'93 Bronco stock Courtesy Light Circuit
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that '92-93 Broncos' & F-series' left front courtesy switch is a rare plastic design (Standard DS838) located at the bottom of the B-pillar (instead of the metal design in the lower A-pillar for all other years '80-96/7). From '94-96/7, the driver's switch (Motorcraft SW6345) returned to the lower A-pillar, like the RIGHT switch always was.

Note that '92-93 Broncos' & F-series' left front courtesy switch is a rare plastic design (Standard DS838) located at the bottom of the B-pillar (instead of the metal design in the lower A-pillar for all other years '80-96/7).

See also:
.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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Courtesy Lamp Circuit for '96 Bronco w/o RKE
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'94-96 Bronco Courtesy Lamps with Remote Keyless Entry
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that '92-93 Broncos' & F-series' left front courtesy switch is a rare plastic design (Standard DS838) located at the bottom of the B-pillar (instead of the metal design in the lower A-pillar for all other years '80-96/7). From '94-96/7, the driver's switch (Motorcraft SW6345) returned to the lower A-pillar, like the passenger switch always was.

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'90-96 Chime Module
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that '92-93 Broncos' & F-series' left front courtesy switch is a rare plastic design (Standard DS838) located at the bottom of the B-pillar (instead of the metal design in the lower A-pillar for all other years '80-96/7). From '94-96/7, the driver's switch (Motorcraft SW6345) returned to the lower A-pillar, like the passenger switch always was.

The warning chime/buzzer module produces a repetitive chime or steady buzzing sound for the following conditions:
- Fasten safety belt warning.
- Key-in-ignition warning with driver's door open.
- Headlamps-on warning (available on some models).

The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch (11572), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door courtesy lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK).

When the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START, power is supplied through Circuit 640 (R/Y) to the warning chime/buzzer module, which then supplies power through Circuit 450 (DG/LG) to illuminate the fasten belts indicator for six seconds, whether or not the driver's safety belt is fastened.

The safety belt warning will sound for approximately six seconds unless the driver's belt switch is open (buckled or unplugged).

The warning chime sounds when the headlamp switch (11654) is in PARK or HEAD and the driver's door is open, and continues to sound until the headlamp switch is moved to OFF or the door is closed. When the headlamp switch is in PARK or HEAD, power is supplied through Circuit 14 (BR) to the module. When the driver's door is open, the driver's door courtesy lamp switch is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK).

See also:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
. . . .

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'94-97 Shift Interlock System

All ('94-up) vehicles are equipped with a shift interlock system. The shift interlock system prevents the shifting from PARK (the ignition key is in the RUN position) unless the service brake is depressed. The shift interlock system consists of a shift lock actuator mounted at the base of the steering column. If the ignition key is in the RUN position, the shift lock actuator continually runs unless the brake is depressed.

See also:

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Brake On-Off (BOO) Circuit for '95 Bronco (others similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Headlight Circuit '92-96
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'78-91 similar

Terminal "I" is the dimmed output to the instrument cluster & dash. At some point, Ford renamed the wire between the switch & fuse from 19 LB/R to 294 W/LB to distinguish it from the rest of 19 LB/R.

The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older floor-mounted stomp-style beam select switch, but (other than Flash-To-Pass) they perform the same function.


http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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MFS Testing '92-up
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Upper Connector Motorcraft WPT-611
Lower Connector Motorcraft WPT-179

Use these photos for access to the MFS:
.

Use these to repair it:


See also:
. . .

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MFS Testing '92-up
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
Upper Connector Motorcraft WPT-611
Lower Connector Motorcraft WPT-179

Use these photos for access to the MFS:


Use these to repair it:


See also:
. . .
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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Trailer & Camper Wiring for '94 & '96 trucks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

BOO (E9LY-13480-A) Motorcraft SW2237



The trailer backup circuit (963 R/Y) is already fused & relay-isolated from the truck backup lamps, so it's an obvious candidate to splice in auxiliary reverse lights on the truck.



'95 is similar to '96.
See also:
The first 2 pages of this PDF are virtually identical to a Bronco.
. . . C417 (WPT-421) . .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 89-14-17 Trailer Wiring Colors

Publication Date: JULY 14, 1989

LIGHT TRUCK: 1990 BRONCO, F-150, F-250, F-350

ISSUE: Trailer tow wire harness color codes have been revised to be compatible with SAE color code standards. When hooking up a vehicle to a trailer that has been wired according to the SAE standard, the wire color/circuits will match.

ACTION: Refer to the following Circuit Color Code Chart for the correct color/circuit usage.

CIRCUIT COLOR CODE CHART
CIRCUIT FUNCTION - OLD COLOR* - SAE COLOR*
Trailer LH Turn/Stop - LG/O - Y
Trailer RH Turn/Stop - O/LB - DG
Trailer Brake Lamp From Controller - R/LG - R/LG
Trailer Electric Brakes Solenoid - BL/BR - DB
Trailer Back Up - BK/PK - R/Y
Trailer Ground - W - W
Trailer Running/Tail - W/R - BR/W
Trailer Power (Battery Charge) - Y - O
Trailer Brake Control Feed - R - R

Color Key - Color Abbreviations
BL or BU-Blue
BK-Black
BR-Brown
DB-Dark Blue
DG-Dark Green
LB-Light Blue
LG-Light Green
O-Orange
P-Pink
R-Red
W-White
Y-Yellow

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

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Trailer Adapter Wiring for '93 Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Condensed & corrected

BOO (E9LY-13480-A) Motorcraft SW2237
Turn Flasher (electronic for LEDs CEC EF32RLNP)
Hazard Flasher (electronic Novita EL12)



The trailer backup circuit (963 R/Y) is already fused & relay-isolated from the truck backup lamps, so it's an obvious candidate to splice in auxiliary reverse lights on the truck.



See also:
The first 2 pages of this PDF are virtually identical to a Bronco.
. . . . C417 (WPT-421) .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 89-14-17 Trailer Wiring Colors

Publication Date: JULY 14, 1989

LIGHT TRUCK: 1990 BRONCO, F-150, F-250, F-350

ISSUE: Trailer tow wire harness color codes have been revised to be compatible with SAE color code standards. When hooking up a vehicle to a trailer that has been wired according to the SAE standard, the wire color/circuits will match.

ACTION: Refer to the following Circuit Color Code Chart for the correct color/circuit usage.

CIRCUIT COLOR CODE CHART
CIRCUIT FUNCTION - OLD COLOR* - SAE COLOR*
Trailer LH Turn/Stop - LG/O - Y
Trailer RH Turn/Stop - O/LB - DG
Trailer Brake Lamp From Controller - R/LG - R/LG
Trailer Electric Brakes Solenoid - BL/BR - DB
Trailer Back Up - BK/PK - R/Y
Trailer Ground - W - W
Trailer Running/Tail - W/R - BR/W
Trailer Power (Battery Charge) - Y - O
Trailer Brake Control Feed - R - R

Color Key - Color Abbreviations
BL or BU-Blue
BK-Black
BR-Brown
DB-Dark Blue
DG-Dark Green
LB-Light Blue
LG-Light Green
O-Orange
P-Pink
R-Red
W-White
Y-Yellow

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

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Trailer Wiring (Bronco)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Locator, Position in Hole Provided (Part of 13A576)
2 Rear Crossmember
3 To 14086 Wiring Assembly
4 Adapter (Kit Stowed in Vehicle for Customer Installation) 12964
5 Self-Tapping Screw N806820-S55
6 Wiring Assembly 13A576
7 Locator (Not Used) (Part of 13A576)
8 To 13A409 Wiring Assembly
9 Bumper 17906
10 Wiring Assembly 14405
A Tighten to 21-28 N-m (15-21 Lb-Ft)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

See also:
Page 142 of this PDF is universal.
. . . (WPT-421) .
_________________________________________________
7-circuit (8-post) insulated terminal block Grote Truck-Lite 50820
Dynamic 7-blade truck-side tester
4/5/6/7 trailer-side tester
Modern standard USCAR connector Curt 56229

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Trailer Connector Pinouts with industry-standard colors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: SAE J2863 revised the colors again, which are now below.

Instead of fighting antique wire colors & connectors, just swap to the modern USCAR standard socket, which will accept a variety of trailer sockets without any more splicing.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 89-14-17 Trailer Wiring Colors

Publication Date: JULY 14, 1989

LIGHT TRUCK: 1990 BRONCO, F-150, F-250, F-350

ISSUE: Trailer tow wire harness color codes have been revised to be compatible with SAE color code standards. When hooking up a vehicle to a trailer that has been wired according to the SAE standard, the wire color/circuits will match.

ACTION: Refer to the following Circuit Color Code Chart for the correct color/circuit usage.

CIRCUIT COLOR CODE CHART
CIRCUIT FUNCTION - OLD COLOR* - OLD SAE COLOR* - SAE J2863 COLOR
Trailer LH Turn/Stop - LG/O - Y - Y
Trailer RH Turn/Stop - O/LB - DG - DG
Trailer Brake Lamp From Controller - R/LG - R/LG - X
Trailer Electric Brakes Solenoid - BL/BR - DB - DB
Trailer Back Up - BK/PK - R/Y - BK/LG
Trailer Ground - W - W - W
Trailer Running/Tail - W/R - BR/W - BR/W
Trailer Power (Battery Charge) - Y - O - O
Trailer Brake Control Feed - R - R - X

Color Key - Color Abbreviations
BL or BU-Blue
BK-Black
BR-Brown
DB-Dark Blue
DG-Dark Green
GY-Gray
LB-Light Blue
LG-Light Green
O or OR-Orange
PK-Pink
P or PU-Purple
R-Red
T-Tan
V-Violet
W or WH-White
Y-Yellow
X-none specified

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

See also:
TSB http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=44045
Page 142 of this PDF is universal.
. . . (WPT-421) .
_________________________________________________
7-circuit (8-post) insulated terminal block Grote Truck-Lite 50820
Dynamic 7-blade truck-side tester
4/5/6/7 trailer-side tester

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Trailer Reverse & Cargo Lamps for a specific application:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/electrical-wiring/2283114-trailer-wiring-diode.html
The center wire in the diagram is the trailer battery charge circuit in a standard 7-terminal trailer connector.

This circuit works with or without the trailer battery, but obviously the lights won't work unless the trailer is connected to SOME battery some way or another.

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Underdash Ventilation Box '80-86

'87-96 similar

Heater Hose Routing:
. .

Heater core

. . . . .

Ventilation Problems

. . . . .

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'83-86 A/C control panel

'92-96
. . .

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Heater Core Installation '80-96

Case is shown front-down. '87-early '88 use no vacuum motors inside the cab.

The boss just above the PLENUM TO COWL SEAL arrow is the drain duct.

To R&R the heater core:
1) with the engine cool, remove & replace the radiator cap to relieve any pressure.
2) disconnect the hoses from the heater core nipples, near the R hood hinge, and position them up so they don't drain.
3) remove the glove box.
- '80-86: remove 5 phillips screws and pull the box out;
- '87-96: fold the glove box down & remove it from its hinge;
- '87-96 F-series: remove the RABS module for access.
4) remove ~7 hex-head screws from the heater core cover, and remove the cover.
5) being careful not to damage the foam seal, remove the heater core.

Heater Hose Routing:
. .

See also:
How the cooling system works
. . . . .

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Auxilliary Heater (rear Bronco, E-series, RV...)


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'87-91 Dash
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'87-early 88 Inside HVAC Box

Heater Hose Routing:
. .

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'87-91 A/C Ducts

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Late '88-91 Inside HVAC Box

13466 - Backlight bulb
18473 - Upper housing
18476 - Heater core
18478 - Defrost door
18518 - Operating cable (single push-pull)
18519 - Knob
18529 - Cable guide
18541 - Backlight bulb socket assembly
18549 - Control panel (heat only)
18570 - Foam seal
18658 - Heater core seal
18854 - Control panel (heat only)
18A318 - Vacuum motor
18B299 - Heater core cover
18A484 - Housing assembly with doors
18B535 - Mode door lever
18B621 - Lower housing
18B684 - Idler lever
18C433 - Floor register
18C686 - Defrost door lever
18D416 - Temperature blend baffle
18N287 - Temperature cable clip
19788 - Temperature blend lever
19980 - Control panel (with A/C)
19986 - Blower speed switch
19A697 - Foam anti-rattle strip
19B888 - Vacuum switch assembly
19C770 - Locking clip
19C827 - Vacuum harness
19D887 - Wiring harness section
387711-S - Nut
390278-S - Screw
390865-S - Screw
42366-S - Screw
45261-S - U-nut
56950-S - Bolt
N623342-S - U-nut
N800906-S - Bolt
N801696-S - Locking clip
N805304-S - Stud-head bolt

Heater Hose Routing:
. .

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'92-96 Inside A/C Box
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

18A478 - Diverter Door, floor/defrost
18A559 - Diverter Door, panel/mix
18B545 - Blend Door, temperature
18518/19988 - early-style push/pull temperature cable

. . . . . . . . . .

Heater Hose Routing:
. .

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'90-93 Outside A/C Box ('80-89 with A/C similar)
This shows the R-12 box (19A559/19A553), which is different from '94-97 R-134a; and the vacuum reservoir (19A556) changed from sonically-welded to screwed-on (probably in '96).

18504 - Blower (squirrel cage)
18527 - Motor, blower
18A318 - Vacuum Motor, fresh/recirculate door
19A553 - Cover, evaporator core
19A556 - Reservoir, vacuum (HVAC, part of 19A553)
19A563 - Vacuum Check Valve, dual outlet
19A580 - Lever, fresh/recirculate door
19A706 - Resistor, blower motor speed
19A786 - Hose, motor coolilng
19C590 - Housing, fresh/recirculate door
19C802 - Door, fresh/recirculate
19C836 - Accumulator/Drier Assembly
19D607 - Accumulator Support ('80-82 & '94-96/7 only)
19D990 - Orifice tube (blue=R12; red=R134a)
19E561 - Low Pressure Switch (white threads=R12; yellow threads=R134a)

. . . . . . . . . .

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'92-96 HVAC Vacuum System

. . . . . . . .

Others '80-91 similar, except '87-early '88 which use a cable for Floor/Def/Panel. The '80-86 vacuum reservoir is a plastic ball on the R wheelwell.

.

This is the most common failure of this vacuum system:



It can be permanently remedied by replacing the underhood vacuum lines with silicone:



The next-most-common problem is objects (especially pens) falling into the defrost register and binding the doors. Remove the heater core for access.



'87-93 trucks are known to have problems with the reservoir on the evaporator cover warping the cover until it cracks, or the sonic weld attaching them cracks; particularly if the shiny insulation is missing, exposing the reservoir to exhaust manifold heat.



A problem for '87-91s is the temperature cable coming out of its adjusting clip:



'92-94 trucks with a single push-pull temperature cable should be upgraded to the revised pull-pull (looped, apparently double) cable & control panel.

.

The vacuum check valve at the top is Motorcraft YG-193-C

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HVAC Wiring '92-96 gasoline
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'93-back trucks use CFC12 (R12); '94-21 use HFC134a (R134a).

The (Wide-open throttle A/C; WAC) compressor clutch control relay (CA '95 & all '96 4.9L) is used to improve idle smoothness after engine start-up and to improve acceleration performance. The A/C is interrupted for approximately 5 seconds just after the engine is started.

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Air Conditioning Controls for '92-96 A/C
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'80-86 & late-'88-91 work similarly.

OFF

In the OFF position, all doors are in the vacuum-applied position with the exception of the PANEL door. The blower & compressor clutch circuits are not energized.

MAX A/C

In the MAX A/C position, all vacuum operated doors are in the vacuum position. A/C damper inlet door (19C802) air is shut off and the passenger compartment air is recirculated to maximize cooling. Discharge is through panel register. A/C clutch & blower circuits are energized.

NORM A/C

In the NORM A/C position, outside air is allowed to enter the passenger compartment. The air passes through the A/C evaporator core (19860) and is cooled before reaching the passenger compartment. Discharge is through panel register. A/C clutch & blower circuits are energized.

VENT

Ventilation is delivered through the instrument panel registers when the function selector knob in the A/C control (19980) is set in the VENT position. In the VENT position, no vacuum is applied to the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. vacuum control motor (18A318 ) and the door is open to the outside. The air coming in through the cowl is discharged through the panel registers. The blower circuit is energized, but the A/C clutch is not.

FLOOR

In the FLOOR position, no vacuum is applied to the vacuum control motor and the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. door is open to the outside. Air is discharged through the heater outlet floor ducts (18C433) with a small amount going to the windshield defroster hose nozzles (18490). The blower circuit is energized, but the A/C clutch is not.

MIX

In the MIX position, outside air is discharged through the windshield defroster hose nozzles and the heater outlet floor ducts. A/C clutch & blower circuits are energized.

DEFROST

In the DEFROST position, outside air is discharged through the windshield defroster hose nozzles with a small amount going to the heater outlet floor ducts. All doors are in the no vacuum position. A/C clutch is engaged in ambient temperatures above approximately 10%uFFFDC (50%uFFFDF) & the blower circuit is energized.

The PANEL/FLOOR, FLOOR/DEFROST and OUTSIDE/RECIRC doors are vacuum operated.

For maximum cooling, the temperature knob should be set in its fully counterclockwise position; the function knob should be in the MAX A/C position; and the blower motor (18527) should be set for a desired rate of airflow.

Even though the function knob is on MAX A/C, the temperature knob, being manually controlled, may be set to modify the temperature of the air and the path through which the air flows. Another characteristic of the MAX A/C setting is the increased noise level of the blower motor. Speed does not change when the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. door is moved to either of its two positions. The difference in noise level is that an open recirculation door exposes the passenger compartment directly to the noise. When insulated against the noise with the recirculation passageway closed, the speed appears to be less.

The control knob operates an A/C switch that is attached to the backside of the A/C control by one screw and retainer tabs.

Five hoses (black, white, red, blue, yellow) extend from the A/C control just below the electrical connector for the mode selector switch to the vacuum control motors and vacuum supply. The solid black hose goes to the vacuum supply through a tee-shaped A/C vacuum check valve (19A563), which attaches the A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket (19A566) and engine source. The white hose actuates the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. air door two-position vacuum control motor. The blue hose actuates the FLOOR/PANEL air door two-position vacuum control motor. The red and yellow hoses actuate the FLOOR/DEFROST three-position air vacuum control motor. Each end of each hose slides onto the nipple of the vacuum port to which it attaches.

. . . . .

This is the most common failure of this vacuum system:


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FS6 Compressor
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Type: swashplate w/3 double-acting axial pistons
Displacement: 10.4 CI
Bore: 1.4"
Stroke: 1.2"
Rotation: CW
Oil (for R-12 Refrigerant): YN-9 (E73Z-19577-A)
System Capacity: 10 fl. oz.
Clutch Current Draw: 4.67A @ 12.8VDC
Clutch Air Gap: 0.02-0.03" in 3 locations spaced evenly around the clutch
Use Clutch Shim Kit Motorcraft YF1800A
Runout: 0.02" (either)
Hose Manifold-to-Compressor Bolt: 18-25 lb-ft
Clutch Hub Nut: 10-14 lb-ft
Compressor Body Bolts (Max to stop leak): 25 lb-ft



This shows a disassembled compressor:
http://www.p71interceptor.com/accompressor/disassembled/part2/PICT7615-vi.jpg

'80-96 F-series & Broncos w/R-134a take 2 lbs. 6 oz.(38oz.) of refrigerant and 7oz of PAG-46.

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FX-15 Compressor Exploded
Use Clutch Shim Kit Motorcraft YF1800A

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FX-10 Compressor

Type: swashplate with 5 double-acting axial pistons
Displacement: 10.4 CI (170cc)
Bore: 29mm
Stroke: 25.7mm
Rotation: CW
Rational Torque (no load): 13 Nm (9.6 ft-lb)
Oil (for R-134a Refrigerant): YN-12b (F2AZ-19577-AC)
System Capacity: 7 oz (207ml) standard
Clutch Air Gap: 0.14-0.33" (0.35-0.85mm)
Use Clutch Shim Kit Motorcraft YF1800A
Clutch Current Draw: 4.36A @ 12VDC
Runout (either): 0.02"
Hose Manifold-to-Compressor Bolt: 17 lb-ft
Clutch Hub Bolt: 11-13 lb-ft



This shows a disassembled compressor:
http://www.p71interceptor.com/accompressor/disassembled/part2/PICT7615-vi.jpg

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FX-15 Compressor

Type: swashplate with 5 double-acting axial pistons
Displacement: 10.4 CI (170cc)
Bore: 29mm
Stroke: 25.7mm
Rotation: CW
Rational Torque (no load): 10 Nm (7 ft-lb)
Oil (for R-12 Refrigerant): YN-9 (E73Z-19577-A)
System Capacity: 7 oz (207ml) standard
Clutch Air Gap: 0.2-0.3" (0.45-0.85mm)
Use Clutch Shim Kit Motorcraft YF1800A
Clutch Current Draw: 4.36A @ 12VDC
Runout (either): 0.02"
Hose Manifold-to-Compressor Bolt: 17 lb-ft
Clutch Hub Bolt: 8-10 lb-ft



This shows a disassembled compressor:
http://www.p71interceptor.com/accompressor/disassembled/part2/PICT7615-vi.jpg

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'87-93 (R12) Condenser Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'78-89 Captain's Chair


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'80-89 Captain's Chairs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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'80-89 Captain's Chair Bases
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

.

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'90-96 Captain's Chairs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

F4TZ9860094A Driver's base
F4TZ1862506A Passenger base
644A90 is a setscrew with 3mm Allen recessed drive
64488-A is a black nylon spacer with an eccentric lip and a D-hole
64488-B is a steel washer 30mmODx14mmIDx10mmTh (~1.25"ODx9/16"IDx3/8"Th)
64488-C is a slim white nylon washer
64684 is a steel plate with a 10mm hole and a D-hole
* (with no PN) is a black nylon short pushpin
65479 is a steel core with foam (not shown) molded onto it in the armrest shape

See also:
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=118769&p=772725#p772725
. . .

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Chair Details
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . .
https://www.nloc.net/vbforum/showthread.php/226519-L-seats?p=2129383&viewfull=1#post2129383
https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=118769&p=772725#p772725
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
TSB 92-17-8 Front Seat Clunks

Publication Date: AUGUST 12, 1992

LIGHT TRUCK: 1992 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES, RANGER

ISSUE: A "clunk" may be heard when accelerating, stopping or turning. This is normally caused by the manual front seat track latch mechanism.

ACTION: Check seat track latches and mechanisms for proper torque and alignment. Refer to the following diagnostic service procedure for details.

FRONT MANUAL SEAT DIAGNOTIC - SERVICE PROCEDURE

Econoline - Passenger's Side Front Bucket Seat On Pedestal Equipped With Under - Seat Storage:
1. Check to see if all pedestal to floor and seat track to seat cushion attachments are properly secured and torqued to specification, so that the "clunk" is not due to loose attachments. Refer to Section 01-10A of the 1992 Service Manual for the required torque specifications.
a. If the seat was properly secured, proceed to Step 2.
b. If the seat was not properly secured, torque all required attachments to Service Manual specifications and check to see if the "clunk" has been corrected. If not, proceed to Step 2.
2. Check to see if both seat track latches are fully engaged after a normal fore-aft adjustment.
a. If yes, the "clunk" is not due to the latch mechanism.
b. If not, the seat is not synchronized. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector for the power lumbar, If so equipped.
4. Remove the complete seat and pedestal assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the Service Manual.
5. Move the seat full front. Loosen the seat track to seat pedestal rear attachments.
6. Move the seat full rear.
7. Loosen the seat track to seat pedestal front attachments.
8. Check the engagement and alignment of the seat track latches.
9. Check the retention of the tie wire.
10. Secure and torque the seat track to pedestal front attachments to Service Manual specifications.
12. Move the seat full front.
13. Secure and torque the seat track to seat pedestal rear attachments to Service Manual specifications.
14. Connect electrical connector for the power lumbar, If so equipped.
15. Install the complete seat and pedestal assembly in the vehicle and torque the floor attachments to Service Manual specifications.
16. Check the seat for proper operation. (After a normal fore-aft adjustment, the seat should be fully latched at both sides).
17. Verify the "clunk" has been corrected.

Econoline And Aerostar Driver's Side Bucket Seat On Pedestal:
1. Check to see if all seat track to floor and seat track to seat cushion attachments are properly secured and torqued to specification, so that the "clunk" is not due to loose attachments. Refer to Section 01-01A of the 1992 Service Manual for the required torque specifications.
a. If the seat was properly secured, proceed to Step 2.
b. If the seat was not properly secured, torque all required attachments to the Service Manual specifications and check to see if the "clunk" has been corrected. If not, proceed to Step 2.
2. Check to see if both seat track latches are fully engaged after a normal fore-aft adjustment.
a. If yes, the "clunk" is not due to the latch mechanism.
b. If not, the seat is not synchronized. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Move the seat full front.
4. Loosen the seat track to pedestal rear attachments.
5. Move the seat full rear. Loosen the seat track to pedestal front attachments.
6. Illuminate seat underneath in the front. Check engagement and alignment of seat latches.
7. Check tie wire retention.
8. Secure and torque the seat track to pedestal front attachments to Service Manual specifications.
9. Move the seat full front.
10. Secure and torque the seat track to seat pedestal rear attachments to Service Manual specifications.
11. Check the seat for proper operation. (After a normal fore-aft adjustment, the seat should be fully latched at both sides.)
12. Verify that the "clunk" has been corrected.

Ranger Standard Cab - Bucket Seat Or 60/40 Seat; Ranger Standard Cab, F-Series Standard Cab, And Bronco - Bench Seats:
1. Check to see if all seat track to floor and seat track to seat cushion attachments are properly secured and torqued to specifications, so that the "clunk" is not due to loose attachments. Refer to section 01-10A of the 1992 Service Manual for the required torque specifications.
a. If the seat was properly secured, proceed to Step 2.
b. If the seat was not properly secured, torque all required attachments to Service manual specifications and check to see if the "clunk" has been corrected. If not, proceed to Step 2.
2. Check to see if both seat track latches are fully engaged after a normal fore-aft adjustment.
a. If yes, the "clunk" is not due to the latch mechanism.
b. If not, the seat is not synchronized. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Move the seat full front.
4. Loosen the seat track to floor rear attachments.
5. Move the seat full rear. Loosen the seat track to floor attachments.
6. Illuminate seat underneath in the front. Check engagement and alignment of seat track latches.
7. Check tie wire retention.
8. Secure and torque the seat track to pedestal front attachments to Service Manual specifications.
9. Move the seat full front.
10. Secure and torque the seat track to floor rear attachments to Service Manual specifications.
11. Check the seat for proper operation. (After a normal fore-aft adjustment, the seat should be fully latched at both sides.
12. Verify the "clunk" has been corrected.

Explorer 4-Door - Bucket Seat Or 60/40 Seat; Ranger Standard Cab - DSO Seat:
1. Check to see if all seat track to floor and seat track to seat cushion attachments are properly secured and torqued to specifications, so that the "clunk" is not due to loose attachments. Refer to Section 01-10A of the 1992 Service Manual for the required torque specifications.
a. If the seat was properly secured, proceed to Step 2.
b. If the seat was not properly secured, torque all required attachments to Service Manual specifications and check to see if the "clunk" has been corrected. If not, proceed to Step 2.
2. Check to see if both seat track latches are fully engaged after a normal fore-aft adjustment.
a. If yes, the "clunk" is not due to the latch mechanism.
b. If not, the seat is not synchronized. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Move the seat full front.
4. Remove the seat to floor insulators (if so equipped).
5. Remove only rear hook of assist spring.
6. Loosen the seat track to floor rear attachments.
7. Move the seat full rear.
8. Loosen the seat track to floor front attachments.
9. Illuminate seat underneath in the front. Check engagement and alignment of seat track latches.
10. Check tie wire retention.
11. Secure and torque the seat track to floor front attachments to Service Manual specifications.
12. Move the seat full front. Install rear hook of the assist spring.
13. Secure and torque the seat track to floor rear attachments to Service Manual specifications.
14. Install the seat to floor rear insulators (if so equipped).
15. Check the seat for proper operation. (After a normal fore-aft adjustment, the seat should be fully latched at both sides).
16. Verify the "clunk" has been corrected.

Ranger Super Cab, Explorer 2-Door, F-Series Super Cab, and Bronco with Tip Slide Seat:
1. Check to see if all seat track to floor and seat track to seat cushion attachments are properly secured and torqued to specifications, so that the "clunk" is not due to loose attachments. Refer to Section 01-10A of the 1992 Service Manual for the required torque specifications.
a. If the seat was properly secured, proceed to Step 2.
b. If the seat was not properly secured, torque all required attachments to Service Manual specifications and check to see if the "clunk" has been corrected. If not, proceed to Step 2.
2. Check to see if both seat track latches are fully engaged after a normal fore-aft adjustment.
a. If yes, the "clunk" is not due to the latch mechanism.
b. If not, the seat is not synchronized. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Move seat full front. (Use the under-seat adjustment lever only.)
4. Remove seat to floor rear insulators.
5. Loosen seat track to floor rear attachments.
6. Move seat full rear. (Use the under-seat adjustment lever only.)
7. Loosen the seat track to floor front attachments.
8. Illuminate seat underneath in the front. Check engagement and alignment of seat track latches.
9. Check tie wire retention.
10. Secure and torque the seat track to floor front attachments to Service Manual specifications.
11. Move the seat full front. (Use the under-seat adjustment lever only.)
12. Secure and torque the seat track to floor rear attachments to Service Manual specifications.
13. Install the seat to floor rear insulators.
14. Check the seat for proper operation. (After a normal fore-aft adjustment, the seat should be fully latched at both sides.)
15. Verify the "clunk" has been corrected.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
921708A Passenger Side Front Bucket Seat On Pedestal Equipped With Underseat Storage (Includes Seat Assembly Removal) - Econoline 0.6 Hr.
921708B Driver's Side Bucket Seat On Pedestal (Does Not Include Seat Assembly Removal) - Econoline And Aerostar. 0.5 Hr.
921708C Bucket Seat Or 60/40 Seat, Bench Seat (Standard Cab) - Ranger, F-150-350 And Bronco 0.4 Hr.
921708D 4-Door Bucket Seat Or 60/40 Seat (Dealer Special Order) - Explorer Or Ranger Standard Cab 0.5 Hr.
921708E Tip Slide Seat - Ranger Super Cab, Explorer 2-Door, F-Series Super Cab And Bronco 0.5 Hr.

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'93-95 Lightning Seats
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/showthread.php/226519-L-seats?p=2129383&viewfull=1#post2129383

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'78-96 Bronco Rear Seat
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. .

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'92-96 Bronco Rear Seat & Belts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. . . .

'78-91 have the reels mounted where the buckles (21 in the top panel) are in this diagram, and the buckles mounted near the seatback hinges (8 in the top panel).
#18 (Top Panel, View A) Check Spring Retainer D8TZ9867440A

In the bottom panel View A, the unnamed item between 8 & 10 is a foam washer as shown here.


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Bench Seat with Armrest
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'87-91 Bronco Seat Belts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The rear inboard position shows the buckles routed through the upholstery & the reels in the gap, which is the '87-91 configuation. '92-96 Broncos have only buckles mounted to the seat (reels on the wheelwells) and they come through the upholstery; '78-86 have the buckles in the gap with the reels.


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'80-96 Front Bench Seat Belts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Item Description Part Number
1 Felt Washer N805266-S
2 Anchor Bolt 386392-S100
3 Shoulder Strap Guide Cover 60262
4 Front Safety Belt Buckle End, RH 61202
5 Anchor Bolt 386274-S100
6 Front Safety Belt Retractor and Tongue, LH 611B09
7 Front Safety Belt Buckle, LH 61203
8 Front Seat Center Passenger Safety Belt 611B60
9 Anchor Bolt 386273-S100
10 Front Safety Belt Retractor and Tongue, RH 611B08
A %u2014 Tighten to 35-45 Nm (26-33 Lb-Ft)

Occupant Restraint System
WARNING: ALL SAFETY BELT ASSEMBLIES INCLUDING RETRACTORS, BUCKLES, FRONT SEAT BELT BUCKLE SUPPORT ASSEMBLIES (SLIDE BAR), IF SO EQUIPPED, CHILD SAFETY SEAT TETHER ATTACHMENTS (IF SO EQUIPPED), AND ATTACHING HARDWARE SHOULD BE INSPECTED AFTER ANY COLLISION BY A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN. ALL BELT ASSEMBLIES SHOULD BE REPLACED UNLESS A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN FINDS THE ASSEMBLIES TO SHOW NO DAMAGE AND OPERATE PROPERLY. BELT ASSEMBLIES NOT IN USE DURING A COLLISION SHOULD ALSO BE INSPECTED AND REPLACED IF EITHER DAMAGE OR IMPROPER OPERATION IS NOTED.

The combination lap/shoulder safety belts and lap safety belts are factory-installed in their proper locations. If the safety belts are removed for any reason, they should be installed as shown in this section.

When replacing safety belt buckles and/or retractor assemblies, use only the replacement parts specified in the Ford Customer Service Division Master Parts and Accessories Catalog for the vehicles serviced.

The outboard safety belt for the front and rear seats is a continuous-loop three-point system. The combination lap and shoulder belt (continuous-loop) uses a common sliding tongue and retractor.

These vehicles are equipped with dual locking mode retractors on the shoulder belt portion of the combination lap/shoulder safety belt for front seat passengers and rear seat outboard passengers, except for Bronco only which has a locking "cinch tongue" for rear seat outboard passengers. The locking "cinch tongue" will slide up and down the belt webbing when belt is in the stowed position or while putting safety belt on. When the "locking cinch tongue" of the combination lap/shoulder safety belt is latched into buckle, the "cinch tongue" will allow the lap portion to become shorter, but locks the webbing in place to restrict it from becoming longer.



The shoulder harness retractor is designed to let the webbing move freely in or out, except during vehicle hard braking, hard cornering or impact of 8 km/h (5 mph) or more. The combination lap/shoulder belt will become locked and help reduce your forward movement when retractor is automatically locked by a mechanically actuated inertia sensor, or if the retractor assembly belt has been fully extracted, and is in the "automatic locking mode" (except Bronco, rear seat).

Safety Belt, Lap/Shoulder, Front and Rear Outboard
The combination lap and shoulder belt is fastened by pulling the tongue across the body while the shoulder belt portion is extracting from the retractor, and inserting the tongue into the safety belt buckle until you hear a snap and feel it latch. Make sure that webbing is not twisted. Adjust the lap belt portion of the safety belt by pulling up on the shoulder belt until the lap belt fits snugly and as low as possible around your hips.

Safety Belt, Lap, Center
The center safety lap belts do not have retractors, but do have an adjustable locking tongue. To lengthen the belt, tip the tongue at a right angle to the belt, and pull the tongue until it can reach and be latched into the safety belt buckle.
To fasten the belt, insert the tongue into the open end of the safety belt buckle until you hear a snap and feel it latch. To shorten the belt, pull on the loose end of the webbing. The lap belt should be snug across the hips, NEVER ACROSS THE WAIST.

Dual locking mode retractors operate in the following two ways:

Vehicle Sensitive (Emergency) Locking Mode
In this operating mode, the shoulder belt retractor will allow the occupant freedom of movement, locking tight only on hard braking, hard cornering or impacts of approximately 8 km/h (5 mph) or more. The front seat belt retractor can also be made to lock by pulling/jerking on the belt.

Automatic Locking Mode
In this operating mode, the shoulder belt retractor will be automatically locked and remain locked when the combination lap/shoulder safety belt has been fully extracted and buckled. In this mode, the safety belt does not allow the occupant freedom of movement. This mode provides the following:
- A tight lap/shoulder belt fit on occupant.
- Child seat or infant carrier installation restraint.

Automatic locking mode must be used when installing a child seat on the front passenger seat and rear outboard seats (except Bronco) where dual locking retractors are provided.
To switch the retractor from the "emergency locking mode" to the "automatic locking mode," perform the following steps:

1. Buckle the lap/shoulder combination belt.
2. Grasp the shoulder portion of the belt and pull downward until all of the belt is extracted. When allowed to retract, a clicking sound will be heard. At this time, the belt retractor is in the "automatic locking mode."
3. A clicking sound will continue to be heard as the belt is allowed to retract. This indicates that the retractor is in the "automatic locking mode."

When the combination lap/shoulder belt is unbuckled and allowed to retract completely, the retractor will switch back to the "vehicle sensitive (emergency) locking mode". See installation instructions under Child Safety Seat Installation in the Adjustments portion of this section.

Safety Belt, Lap/Shoulder, Front and Rear Outboard
The combination lap and shoulder belt is fastened by pulling the tongue across the body while the shoulder belt portion is extracting from the retractor, and inserting the tongue into the safety belt buckle until you hear a snap and feel it latch. Make sure that webbing is not twisted. Adjust the lap belt portion of the safety belt by pulling up on the shoulder belt until the lap belt fits snugly and as low as possible around your hips.


Safety Belt, Lap, Center
The center safety lap belts do not have retractors, but do have an adjustable locking tongue. To lengthen the belt, tip the tongue at a right angle to the belt, and pull the tongue until it can reach and be latched into the safety belt buckle.
To fasten the belt, insert the tongue into the open end of the safety belt buckle until you hear a snap and feel it latch. To shorten the belt, pull on the loose end of the webbing. The lap belt should be snug across the hips, NEVER ACROSS THE WAIST.

Safety Belt Retractor Unjamming Procedure
If the safety belt retractor should become jammed by allowing the belt to retract when it is twisted, the webbing can be freed using this procedure.
1. Pull on the belt with both hands to tighten it on the retractor spool.
2. Feed the belt back into the retractor until it is completely retracted. Repeat previous step if necessary.
3. Pull the belt out of the belt retractor as far as it will go and untwist the belt or remove the object that is jamming the belt. Let the belt retract.
4. Pull the belt out and let it retract several times to make sure the belt works properly.

Safety Belt Lockup Functional Test Procedure
1. Driver will buckle up and proceed to a safe test area. If RH front or rear passenger safety belt must be tested, a passenger should be buckled into RH front or rear seat. (The RH front belt may be tested using a driver only, providing driver has the ability to grasp RH front shoulder belt and extend it approximately 66 cm (26 inches) with no compromise to safe driving). This method applies to 8 km/h (5 mph) test only.
2. After reaching a safe area to perform sudden stops, driver will attain a speed of approximately 8 km/h (5 mph). The driver should advise the passenger (if applicable) to prepare for a severe brake application. At this time, both driver and passenger should grasp their respective shoulder safety belts and prepare to lean slightly forward at the moment brake application is made.
WARNING: THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER MUST BE PREPARED TO BRACE THEMSELVES IN THE EVENT THE RETRACTOR DOES NOT LOCK.
3. The driver will make a maximum brake application without tire skid. (The maximum brake application should be on dry concrete or equivalent hard road surface; never on a wet or gravel road.)
4. The driver and passenger should lean forward slightly into shoulder safety belt. At this instant, belts should lock up without any noticeable webbing payout.
5. If there is a lockup of both shoulder belts, safety belt assemblies are functioning properly.
NOTE: If the retractor of a new safety belt assembly has been bolted into a damaged or distorted mounting area, the new retractor could be warped and may not function. If this is the case, reshape the sheet metal and install another new complete safety belt assembly.
6. Should either or both retractors fail to lock up at the 8 km/h (5 mph) speed, repeat the test at a constant 24 km/h (15 mph). (This test must be performed with a driver and passenger if both front retractors are to be tested.)
7. If either or both shoulder safety belts do not lock up at 24 km/h (15 mph) test, return vehicle for service of malfunctioning safety belts. Remove retractor and rework sheet metal in retractor's mounting area, if necessary. Install retractor assembly and retest safety belt assembly(s) as previously stated.

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ChildTetherBronco.jpg | Hits: 1194 | Size: 89.52 KB | Posted on: 12/12/20 | Link to this image


Child Restraint Seat Tether Installation Instructions for '92-96 Bronco ('80-91 similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . .

General Instructions
Read these instructions carefully prior to installation of the child tether strap anchor kit. (Refer to kit content.) Some manufacturers make safety seats with a tether strap that goes over the back of the vehicle seat and attaches to an anchoring point behind the vehicle seat. Ford recommends placement of tethered safety seats in a rear seating position with the tether strap attached to the tether anchoring point as shown. If a tethered seat is installed in the front seat, Ford recommends the center front seating position, with the tether strap secured to the center rear lap belt tongue or to the webbing of the buckled center rear lap belt behind the child safety seat. The front, right hand seating position may be used if it is the only seating position available.

WARNING: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE PRECAUTIONS COULD INCREASE THE CHANCE AND/OR SEVERITY OF INJURY IN AN ACCIDENT.
This vehicle has provisions to attach a tether anchorage in the front right hand, and all second row, seating positions. It is easiest to install a tether anchor at the second row (rear) center seating position.

Instructions for Locating Tether Strap Anchor Drill Dimples for the Front Right Hand Seating Position
1. You must remove the second row bench seat to gain access to the affected area beneath the carpet.
2. To remove this rear fold-down seat:
(a. Unlock the latch and fold the seat forward.
(b. Remove the rear seat cushion torsion bar. Release it from the right hand floor bracket by pushing forward and up.
(c. Remove the spring retainers and the hinge pivot pins from both the floor brackets.
(d. Remove the seat assembly.
(e. Remove the front bolts that fasten the bracket to the floor.
(f. Remove the plug buttons from the spring. Remove the bolts from the spring. Remove the spring, the washer and the retainer from the bracket.
NOTE: When the carpeting is pulled back, you should see a colored 2 inch x 2 inch (51mm x 51mm) square box with a large block letter T inside of it. This marks the approximate area of the floor where the drill dimple is located.
3. Lift front flap of the floor carpeting and pull it back to expose the drill dimple provided for attachment of the tether strap bracket.
4. Locate the drill dimple. It is approximately 5-5/8 inches (14.3cm) toward the center of the vehicle from the front RH bracket bolt. A letter T is stamped next to the drill dimple to help find its location.

Instructions for Locating Tether Strap Anchor Drill Dimples for the Second Row Right Hand and Left Hand Seating Position
1. Open the liftgate. Remove the attaching screws retaining the rear floor scuff plate to the body.
2. Fold the rear bench seat forward.
3. Fold back the rear floor carpet and lift the carpet assembly to expose the floor sheet metal. (Refer to illustration.)
4. From inside the cargo area, locate the two (2) drill dimples (one for each side of the vehicle) in the floor near the embossed letter T. The drill dimples are located approximately 17-1/2 inches (44.4cm) from the rear striker bolt. (Refer to illustrations.)

Instructions for Installing Tether Strap Anchor Attachments for the Front Right Hand and Rear Out-Board Seating Positions ONLY
1. From inside the cargo area, drill a .354 inch (9mm) hole through the desired dimple(s). Verify, before drilling the hole through the floor pan, that the drill will not damage any underbody components. Refer to the following illustrations.
NOTE: Do not install the black-colored tether strap bracket at these locations.
2. An assistant will be needed underneath the vehicle to attach the tether anchor. Before installing the tether hardware, read the instructions on the package containing thread locking material, then open the capsule and apply thread locking material to all threads on the tether attachment bolt. Install the child tether hardware as shown in the following illustrations.
WARNING: THE TETHER BRACKET MUST BE BOLTED DIRECTLY TO THE FLOOR SHEET METAL. INTERIOR TRIM MUST NOT BE TRAPPED BETWEEN THE ANCHOR AND THE SHEET METAL. FAILURE TO PROPERLY INSTALL THE ANCHOR COULD RESULT IN IMPROPER PERFORMANCE IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT.
3. It is important that the tether attachment bolt be torqued to 22-34 N-m (16-25 ft-lb).
WARNING: THE THREADED HOLE IN THE TETHER ANCHOR HAS AN 8MM METRIC THREAD. A WRENCH WILL BE NEEDED TO TIGHTEN THE 8MM BOLT TO THE REQUIRED TORQUE. SOME CHILD RESTRAINTS COME WITH A NON-METRIC BOLT WITH A DIFFERENT THREAD. DO NOT USE A NON-METRIC BOLT AS IT MAY BE IMPOSSIBLE TO SCREW IT ALL THE WAY INTO THE HOLE, RESULTING IN INADEQUATE RETENTION OF THE CHILD RESTRAINT. USE ONLY THE METRIC ANCHOR BOLT SUPPLIED IN THIS KIT. IF YOU NEED A REPLACEMENT METRIC BOLT OR ASSISTANCE, ANY FORD DEALER WILL BE HAPPY TO ASSIST YOU.
WARNING: IF THE ANCHOR BOLT(S) ARE EVER REMOVED, THE HOLE(S) IN THE FLOOR MUST BE SEALED TO PREVENT THE POSSIBILITY OF EXHAUST FUMES ENTERING THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT.
4. Refer to Cutting the Carpet in this section.

Instructions for Installing Tether Strap Anchor Attachments for the Second Row Center Seating Position
1. Locate the latch assembly and the latch striker. The rear bolt holding the latch striker to the floor pan is the bolt used for mounting the tether strap bracket (refer to illustration).
2. With the rear seat folded forward, remove the rear bolt retaining the striker bar to the floor pan sheet metal.
3. Before installing the tether hardware, read the instructions on the package containing the thread locking material, then open the capsule and apply thread locking material to all threads on the tether attachment bolt.
NOTE: Use the black-colored tether strap bracket at THIS LOCATION ONLY.
4. Assemble the bolt, black tether bracket and washer. The black tether bracket must be pointing rearward and assembled as shown.
5. Install the bolt assembly and torque the bolt to 61.3-81.7 N-m (45-60 ft-lb).

Cutting the Carpet -- Front Right Hand and Rear Out-Board Seating Positions (After Tether Bracket Has Been Installed)
Pull back the carpet and find the 2 inch x 2 inch (51mm x 51mm) colored square on the back side of the carpet. The colored square is the approximate location of the required cut-out in the carpet. Using the colored square as a guide, establish the location where a 2 inch x 2 inch (51mm x 51mm) cut-out in the carpet will expose the chrome tether bracket. Cut the carpet as shown in the following illustrations.

Installing the Seat and Trim
1. If the rear fold-down seat was removed, install the seat as follows.
(a. Align the holes in the rear seat cushion bracket with the holes in the floor pan. Put a washer and a retainer in the bottom of each spring. Place the assembly so the retainers are on the brackets. Install the bolts through the springs and tighten to 62-81 N-m (45-60 ft-lb).
(b. Install the remaining bolts and washers that fasten the brackets to the floor. Tighten to 62-81 N-m (45-60 ft-lb).
(c. Put the seat assembly in position and install the hinge pivot pins and spring retainers.
(d. Install the rear seat cushion torsion bar.
(e. Check the seat for correct operation.
2. Return the folding rear seat to the upright position and make sure it is latched in place.
3. Position the rear floor carpeting and the trim.
WARNING: FOLLOW THE CHILD SEAT MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS TO ATTACH THE TETHER STRAP TO THE TETHER BRACKET.
4. Install the tail gate scuff plate if it was removed.

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SeatBeltClip.JPG | Hits: 3293 | Size: 58 KB | Posted on: 8/25/11 | Link to this image


Child Seat Belt Clip (one example; another example)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
.

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TrimB80-96.JPG | Hits: 3903 | Size: 61.47 KB | Posted on: 11/9/11 | Link to this image


'80-96 Bronco Interior Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. . . . . .

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A-PillarCover.jpg | Hits: 5698 | Size: 49.69 KB | Posted on: 10/16/05 | Link to this image


'92-96 A-Pillar Cover
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The upper style A-pillar cover is used with a headliner. The lower, without.

'87-91 is shorter at the bottom, with the screw angling in sideways.

The upper w/s trim (#1) has 3 holes for '87-93, and 4 for '94-97.

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CabTrim.jpg | Hits: 5488 | Size: 69.96 KB | Posted on: 4/20/09 | Link to this image


'80-86 Cab Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Modified diagram from TSB 93-15-13

Later trim is retained by screws instead of the spring steel clips shown in views A & C. Also, the steel body side garnish & plastic front body pillar inside mouldings are integrated into 1 plastic piece per side for '87-96.

Possible replacement screws include AuVeCo 10654 (8-18x1.25" oval phillips head w/captive washer, black) & 12957 (8-18x1" oval phillips head w/captive washer, black)

See also:
. . .

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Headliner80-86B.JPG | Hits: 4835 | Size: 58.8 KB | Posted on: 10/14/10 | Link to this image


'80-86 Bronco Headliner & Interior Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The screws shown under the w/s trim (near "VIEW A" arrows) don't exist on '80-86 trucks. There are 3 screws for '87-93, and 4 for '94-96.

View D applies only to '92-96. There is no Drive Pin behind the dome lamp on any year.

. .

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VisorShelfBrkt.jpg | Hits: 5160 | Size: 16.43 KB | Posted on: 2/14/06 | Link to this image


Aftermarket Visor Shelf Brackets

scanned at 300dpi (click the image to make sure you have the ORIGINAL size before saving)
bend L & R

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Console Floor 92-96.jpg | Hits: 6320 | Size: 36.22 KB | Posted on: 10/16/05 | Link to this image


'92-96 Floor Console
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . .

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ConsoleFloor80-91.JPG | Hits: 3860 | Size: 83.22 KB | Posted on: 12/3/11 | Link to this image


'78-91 Floor Console

Note that '78-81 consoles use 2 snap-pin latches (N805615-S); later consoles use a lid made for an '80-86 glove box latch (06072/06064) (optionally locking). '87-91 have slightly deeper cup wells, and slightly different contours for the bottom to match the changes in the floor contours.

. .

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Roll Bar Diagram.jpg | Hits: 10362 | Size: 54.25 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


OE Bronco Roll Bar
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

E1TZ-9851876-A brace, right
E1TZ-9851877-A brace, left
EOTZ-98518A96-A retainer, lower
EOTZ-98518A88-B retainer, upper
EOTZ-9848014-A bezel
E1TZ-9851868-A bar
D8TZ-98518N00-A pad

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CarpetBronco.jpg | Hits: 4830 | Size: 50.99 KB | Posted on: 10/16/05 | Link to this image


Bronco Carpet
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MapDomeLights.JPG | Hits: 3349 | Size: 6.23 KB | Posted on: 1/28/11 | Link to this image


Simple map & dome light wiring, power switched.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1745578#post1745578

For ground-switched circuits, reverse the constant power & ground labels.

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CargoLpBronco78-91.JPG | Hits: 3218 | Size: 60.42 KB | Posted on: 11/6/11 | Link to this image


'78-91 Bronco Cargo Lamp
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The bayonet bulb base shown is incorrect - it's a large wedge base.

.

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Bedside Panels Old.jpg | Hits: 5854 | Size: 72.31 KB | Posted on: 10/14/05 | Link to this image


'80-91 Bronco Bedside Panels
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Bedside Panels Low.jpg | Hits: 5485 | Size: 69.35 KB | Posted on: 10/14/05 | Link to this image


Bedsides, Low Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that later Broncos do not have a contoured bar running along the lower edge of the trim panel.


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Bedside Panels NewLow.jpg | Hits: 5431 | Size: 62.05 KB | Posted on: 10/14/05 | Link to this image


'92-96 Bedsides, Low Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Bedside Panels NewHi.jpg | Hits: 6072 | Size: 70.37 KB | Posted on: 10/14/05 | Link to this image


'92-96 Bedsides, Hi Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The cargo cover track molded in above the rear pocket is only present on '94-96 panels.

See also:
.

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Tailgate Net.jpg | Hits: 5065 | Size: 39.91 KB | Posted on: 3/27/05 | Link to this image


Cargo Cover & Tailgate Net for Bronco
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Cab Step.jpg | Hits: 8797 | Size: 86.42 KB | Posted on: 10/16/05 | Link to this image


Cab Step
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Passenger step is 16A740; driver is 16A741

INSTALLATION
1) Install bracket 7 using existing screw (shown but not labelled) through wheel well liner. Install U-nuts (not shown) onto U-tubes of bracket 5, and U-nuts (shown but not labelled) onto underbody lip for bolts 6 (do not install bolts 6 yet).
2) Support step 3 and attach to bracket 7 using bolt 2, aligning to rocker & fender.
3) Install bolt 2 at rear of step 3.
4) Raise bracket 5 onto studs of step 3 and secure with nuts 4.
5) Install bolts 6 and secure.
6) Raise bracket 5 to support step against rocker and secure with bolts 1.

REMOVAL
1) Remove screws 2.
2) Remove bolts 6.
3) Remove bolts 1 and lower step/bracket assembly from rocker.

For replacement brackets (#5), see:

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BumperFront80-86.jpg | Hits: 5350 | Size: 58.6 KB | Posted on: 1/5/06 | Link to this image


Front Bumper 80-86 Deluxe
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

E1TZ17757A chrome bumper w/o rub strip holes
E1TZ17757C chrome bumper with rub strip holes
E1TZ17757D chrome bumper with fog lamps
E2TZ17757A black bumper
EOTZ17984A chrome bumper guard
D8TZ17A812A bumper guard pad
EOTZ17K833A bumper pad, right outer
EOTZ17K834A bumper pad, left outer
EOTZ17C829B bumper pad, left inner
EOTZ17C829A bumper pad, right inner
EOTZ17779A stone deflector (between bumper & grille, NOT SHOWN)

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TapeStripe84-96.jpg | Hits: 940 | Size: 20.68 KB | Posted on: 9/17/19 | Link to this image


'84-96 Tape Stripe PNs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These are NLA, except an occasional NOS '93-95 Lightning set that I've seen on ebay. Some reproductions are available, possibly from these sites:
https://www.customautotrim.com/
https://fastdecals.com/
https://fordera.com/collections/frontpage?page=2 (try coupon code FE10OFF)

I've heard bad things about https://www.aftermarketgraphics.com/

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RunningBoardsEarly.jpg | Hits: 700 | Size: 62.82 KB | Posted on: 7/20/19 | Link to this image


Running Boards (possibly '80-91)

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BodySheetMetal.jpg | Hits: 2579 | Size: 83.54 KB | Posted on: 1/25/15 | Link to this image


INCOMPLETE Bronco Body Sheet Metal Parts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

01610 Cowl Panel ('92-96 F4TZ1501610A)
016A92 Cowl Reinforcement ('92-96 F2TZ15016A92A)
02010 Cowl Top ('92-96 F2TZ1502010A)
020A10 Cowl Horn ('80-96 Left F2TZ15020A11A; Right F4TZ15020A10A)
02018 Cowl Inner ('92-96 F2TZ1502030A)
02268 Cowl Grill ('92-96 F6TZ15022A68AA) (aka Wiper Valance)
10608 Rear Sill new AMD
10792 Rear Perch ('80-96 Left F0TB9810793AALH; Right F2TB9810792AARH)
27700 Side Panel (includes quarter panel, sail panel, door strike) ('92-96 Left F5TZ9827701A) ('92-96 Right w/o swingaway F4TZ9827700A) ('92-96 Right w/swingaway F5TZ9827700B)
27840 Quarter Panel ('92-96 Left F2TZ9827841A) ('92-96 Right w/o swingaway F2TZ9827840A) ('92-96 Right w/swingaway F2TZ9827840B)
28028 Sail Panel ('80-96 Left EOTZ9828029A; Right EOTZ9828028A)
28160 Strike Pillar ('92-96 Left F4TZ9828161A) ('92-96 Right F4TZ9828160A)
99405 Fuel Door ('87-96 E9TZ99405A26A)


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Fender80-86.jpg | Hits: 6512 | Size: 71.62 KB | Posted on: 12/18/05 | Link to this image


Fender '80-86
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Grille80-86.jpg | Hits: 5630 | Size: 76.12 KB | Posted on: 12/18/05 | Link to this image


Grille '82-86
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'80-81 is similar, with no Ford oval in the grille.

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Hood&Latch80-86.JPG | Hits: 3436 | Size: 66.99 KB | Posted on: 3/18/12 | Link to this image


'80-86 Hood & Latch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



'87-96 similar

16612 - Hood assembly
16700 - Hood latch assembly
16738 - Sound absorbing panel (diesel only)
16758 - Hood pad
16796 - Hinge
16826 - Lift spring/hood support assembly
16864 - Hood latch mount
16892 - Safety catch assembly
16907 - Cable retainer clip
16916 - Hood release handle & cable assembly
16978 - Lock cylinder (RPO)
16B968 - Shield
16C644 - Latch spring
386132-S - Cable retainer
44725-S - Washer
55914-S - Screw
N606689-S - Bolt
N611056-S - Screw
N623332-S - U-nut
N623333-S - U-nut
N623343-S - U-nut
N800297-S - Bolt
N800428-S - Nut assembly
N800510-S - Bolt
N800538-S - U-nut
N803387-S - Pushpin

See also:
.

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HoodLamp.jpg | Hits: 43 | Size: 48.24 KB | Posted on: 2/20/24 | Link to this image


'92-96/7 Hood Lamp
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HoodHinge.jpg | Hits: 483 | Size: 88.82 KB | Posted on: 2/26/22 | Link to this image


'80-96 Hood Hinge
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Hood Adjustment, '80-96 F-150-250-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab, and Bronco
1. Open the hood and mark the hinge and latch assembly locations.
2. Loosen the hinge-to-fender inner attaching screws until they are snug.
3. Adjust the hinge up or down or rotate as required to obtain a flush fit between the hood and the top of the cowl panel. Then, tighten the hinge-to-fender inner attaching screws.
4. Loosen the two hood latch assembly attaching screws.
5. Loosen the hinge-to-hood attaching bolts until they are snug. Move the hood forward or rearward and from side to side as required for a proper hood fit. Then, tighten the hinge-to-hood attaching screws. Move the latch from side to side as required to center the latch with the hood striker. Tighten the hood latch attaching screws.
6. Lubricate each hood hinge at all pivot points with Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA (ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B) or equivalent. Check the functional operation of the hinges by opening and closing the hood several times to make sure alignment is correct and the lubricant has effectively worked into the pivot points.

See also:
.

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Headlight80-86.JPG | Hits: 3443 | Size: 71.88 KB | Posted on: 11/8/11 | Link to this image


'80-86 Headlight
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

E2TZ-13064-A Headlamp Door, right chrome & charcoal
E2TZ-13064-B Headlamp Door, left chrome & charcoal
E2TZ-13064-C Headlamp Door, right gloss black
E2TZ-13064-D Headlamp Door, left gloss black
EOTZ-13064-L Headlamp Door, right chrome & black
EOTZ-13064-M Headlamp Door, left chrome & black
EOTZ-13064-N Headlamp Door, right chrome & argent
EOTZ-13064-P Headlamp Door, left chrome & argent
EOTZ-13B041-B Shield right
EOTZ-13B042-B Shield left
D8BZ-13007-A Sealed Beam, standard
F3UZ-13007-A Sealed Beam, halogen
6C2Z-13015-A Retainer Ring
E99Z-13119-A Mount Ring, left
E99Z-13118-A Mount Ring, right
E1TZ-13200-A Park Lamp, right
E1TZ-13200-A Park Lamp, left
D1FZ-13234-A Socket & Wire
EOTZ-15A201-A Side Marker, right
EOTZ-15A201-B Side Marker, left
C2AZ-13466-C Bulb (194)

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'78-91 Wiper/Washer Circuits
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that the motor is the same, and the interval governor plugs into the same connector that the non-interval switch uses. So the interval system is PnP.

See also:


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'92-96 Wiper/Washer Circuits
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . . . .
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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WiperMotorTesting.jpg | Hits: 22062 | Size: 43.02 KB | Posted on: 7/17/05 | Link to this image


Wiper Motor Testing '92-up
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

W - Lo
DB/O - Hi
Y/R - Ground (motor)
Bk - Ground (park)
Bk/Pk - Position
DG - Power (park)

NOTE: The ground wire test at the top is only for motors that DO NOT RUN normally.
The motor's peak draw should be less than 8.25A.

See also:
. . . . . . .
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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'80-96 Wipers (diesel spray tank is on right wheelwell)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

ERROR: the J-hook wiper arms (F4TZ17526A) shown for '92-96 are actually only used on '94-96; '92-93 use the same arm as '80-91 (E7TZ17526B).
F87Z17528AB Blade
F5HZ17508A Motor (single connector)Ford EOAZ17664A or EOPF-17D443-AA, or MotorCraft WG30
F6TZ-17566-AB '87-97 Transmission right Dorman 602307 MADE WRONG - read reviews before buying
F6TZ-17567-AA '87-97 Transmission left Dorman 602308 MADE WRONG - read reviews before buying
E3TZ-17531-A Transmission clip
YC2Z-17C476-A Wiper Control Module (WCM Ford YC2Z17C476A or MotorCraft SW7665)
E7TZ-17618-B Reservoir (FO1288170)
E7TZ17651A Reservoir support
EOAZ-17664-A Pump motor Motorcraft WG30
F2TZ-17603-A Spray nozzle

. . . . .

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WiperValance.jpg | Hits: 653 | Size: 121.91 KB | Posted on: 2/26/22 | Link to this image


'80-96 Wiper Valance
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

022A08 is only used from '87-97
020A50 is only used on the R (passenger) side '80-95; '96-97 on both sides
022A56 Wiper Valance (Cowl Grill) ('92-96 F6TZ15022A68AA)
E7TZ1502824A cowl-to-hood seal LMC part 41-1514 may be the best replacement, for ~$30. Common replacements as on Amazon & eBay are not made properly, and may require cutting to fit.

Removal:
1) lift the wiper arms, slide out the catches, then pull the arms off the shafts
2) lift the antenna base trim, remove 4 screws, unplug antenna cable from base
3) release windshield trim clips, and remove lower & side trim pieces
4) remove screws from valance near w/s lower moulding
5) open hood & remove screws along front of valance
6) work valance forward & up off wiper shafts, then rearward & up from hood
IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE LOWER & SIDE W/S MOULDINGS. It may also be necessary to adjust the hood forward on the hinges, and re-align it to the body later.
7) disconnect sprayer hose and remove valance from truck


. . . . . . . . .

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Washer Jet Late.jpg | Hits: 9432 | Size: 28.1 KB | Posted on: 11/22/03 | Link to this image


Washer Jet (F2TZ-17603-A)

The windshield washer system has two windshield washer nozzle jets F2TZ-17603-A located on the cowl vent screen (018A16).
The washer system is activated by pushing in on the outboard end of the multi-function switch F8TZ13J359AB/SW5591.
This action causes the wiper control module (YC2Z-17C476-A) to energize a windshield washer pump (EOAZ-17664-A) mounted inside a cavity in the windshield washer reservoir (E7TZ-17618-B).
The windshield washer reservoir is mounted to a bracket (E7TZ-17651-A) under the hood on the fender apron.
If the multi-function switch is in the OFF or INT position, the windshield wiper motor will run as long as the knob is pushed in. When the knob is released, the washers will stop immediately, but the windshield wipers will continue to run for three to four cycles before returning to OFF or interval operation.
If the multi-function switch is in the LO or HI position, the washers operate with no change in windshield wiper operation.

NOTE: The windshield washer nozzle jet and bracket sprays windshield washer fluid in a fan-like pattern onto the windshield glass (03100), but the jet is actually a single oscillating stream. Only actuate the system momentarily to avoid sending more fluid than needed through the system.

The windshield washer nozzle jet and bracket is not adjustable, and is mounted to the cowl vent screens. Do not apply shop air pressure. Do not insert any object to adjust or clean nozzles.

See also:
. . .

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Windshield Reveal Mouldings '80-97 are polished Aluminum, but '94-up are typically blacked (possibly anodized or dipped).

EOTZ-1003144-A Top right bright
F1TZ1503144AJ Top right black
EOTZ-1003145-A Top left bright
F1TZ1503145AJ Top left black
EOTZ-1003136-A Right side bright
F1TZ1503136AJ Right side black
EOTZ-1003137-A Left side bright
F1TZ1503137AJ Left side black
F1TZ1503148AJ Lower black
EOTZ-1003148-A Lower bright
E1DZ-6629100-A Lower clip (clip & rivet kit)
D1AZ-6542413-B Retainer Au-Ve-Co 8941 Au-Ve-Co 8941
030A12 Shim (plastic ramps)

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . .

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BumperF87-91.JPG | Hits: 4000 | Size: 69.7 KB | Posted on: 11/6/11 | Link to this image


'87-91 Front Bumper
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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'87-91 Fender, Core Support, & Grille
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'87-91 Grilles

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Headlight87-91.JPG | Hits: 420 | Size: 76.23 KB | Posted on: 1/25/22 | Link to this image


'87-91 Headlight
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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BumperF92-96.jpg | Hits: 86 | Size: 63.22 KB | Posted on: 3/7/24 | Link to this image


'92-97 Front Bumpers
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
ERRORS: in the center inset (Section B) 3 should be 9 and 4 should be 8 as in Section A; in the main view right 9 should not be a single strip - it should be 2 outboard strips and a separate center nostril trim


1 Front Bumper 17757 (chrome solid F2TZ17757A interchange FO1002236; chrome rub F2TZ17757B interchange FO1002237; chrome vented F3TZ17757AB interchange FO1002254; black rub interchange FO1002239; black solid F2TZ17757D interchange FO1002340)
2 Nut (4 Req'd) N804525-S59 (21mm drive)
3 Frame (Side Rail Tab) 5005
4 Bumper Isolator and Bracket Spacer 17765 (RARELY used)
5 Rivet (12 Req'd) 388442-S309 (1/4" all-steel galvanized/cadmium)
6 Front License Plate Mounting Bracket F2TZ17A385A (Interchange Part Number: FO1068101)
7 Rivet (3 Req'd) N803043-S (1/4" all-steel black)
8 Front Valance Panel F2TZ17626A (FO1095154)
9 Front Bumper Horizontal Pad w/o turbo F2TZ17K833A (FO1057220)
10 Arm, Front Bumper 17766 (RH F2TZ-17752-A, FO1066108 ); 17767 (LH F2TZ-17752-B, FO1067108 ); aftermarket pair
11 Screw and Washer N606689-S301 (10mm drive)
12 U-Nut N800296-S301 (8mmx1.25))
13 Reinforcement, Front Bumper, Bronco Only F2TZ17A792A (RH, FO1067110); F2TZ17A792B (LH, FO1066110)
14 Bolt Assembly (2 Req'd) N605934-S53
A - Tighten to 60-80 N-m (44-59 Lb-Ft)
B - Tighten to 19-25 N-m (14-18 Lb-Ft)

Standard Bumper ('92-97)
Bare chrome (no trim holes) F2TZ17757A (aftermarket FO1002236)
Set of bumper, trim, chin valance, & mounts (aftermarket) (no fasteners)

Turbo Diesel Bumper ('94-97)
Left side trim F3TZ17K833J interchange FO1058271
Right side trim F3TZ17K833H interchange FO1059271
Pair of outboard trims (aftermarket) FO1059271 & FO105827
Nostril trim F3TZ17K833K interchange FO1057272
Set of 3 trims (aftermarket) FO1059271, FO105827, & FO1057272
Set of bumper, trim, & mounts (aftermarket) (no chin valance or fasteners)

Removal
1. Support the bumper assembly and remove the four nuts (two each side) attaching the assembly to the frame mounting brackets.
2. Carefully lower the bumper assembly from vehicle and lay it on a protective surface.
3. If replacing bumper bar, remove front bumper horizontal pads (17C829) by pinching rear pegs & pushing them through, front fender apron and radiator support braces (16A023) or front license plate mounting bracket (17A386) by drilling out rivets.
4. Sight along the frame tabs, and bend them into alignment using a large adjustable wrench.

.

Installation
1. If bumper bar was replaced, install front bumper horizontal pads, front fender apron and radiator support braces or front license plate mounting bracket.
2. Align bumper assembly mounting studs to the holes in the frame mounting brackets.
3. Insert studs through slot in frame brackets. Loosely assemble nuts to hold front bumper (17757) to frame (5005) (side rail).
4. Align front bumper to front fenders (16005) and sheet metal stone deflector maintaining a parallel margin of 18-31mm (.76-1.24 inch). If rotation is an issue, use shim as required.
5. After front bumper is aligned, tighten nuts to 60-80 N-m (44-59 lb-ft) per TSB 95-07-07.

See also:
. . . .

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BumperF92.jpg | Hits: 9958 | Size: 60.71 KB | Posted on: 6/23/08 | Link to this image


'92-97 Front Bumpers
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
ERRORS: in the center inset (Section B) 3 should be 9 and 4 should be 8 as in Section A; in the main view right 9 should not be a single strip - it should be 2 outboard strips and a separate center nostril trim


1 Front Bumper 17757 (chrome solid F2TZ17757A interchange FO1002236; chrome rub F2TZ17757B interchange FO1002237; chrome vented F3TZ17757AB interchange FO1002254; black rub interchange FO1002239; black solid F2TZ17757D interchange FO1002340)
2 Nut (4 Req'd) N804525-S59 (21mm drive)
3 Frame (Side Rail Tab) 5005
4 Bumper Isolator and Bracket Spacer 17765 (RARELY used)
5 Rivet (12 Req'd) 388442-S309 (1/4" all-steel galvanized/cadmium)
6 Front License Plate Mounting Bracket F2TZ17A385A (Interchange Part Number: FO1068101)
7 Rivet (3 Req'd) N803043-S (1/4" all-steel black)
8 Front Valance Panel F2TZ17626A (FO1095154)
9 Front Bumper Horizontal Pad w/o turbo F2TZ17K833A (FO1057220)
10 Arm, Front Bumper 17766 (RH F2TZ-17752-A, FO1066108 ); 17767 (LH F2TZ-17752-B, FO1067108 ); aftermarket pair
11 Screw and Washer N606689-S301 (10mm drive)
12 U-Nut N800296-S301 (8mmx1.25))
13 Reinforcement, Front Bumper, Bronco Only F2TZ17A792A (RH, FO1067110); F2TZ17A792B (LH, FO1066110)
14 Bolt Assembly (2 Req'd) N605934-S53
A - Tighten to 60-80 N-m (44-59 Lb-Ft)
B - Tighten to 19-25 N-m (14-18 Lb-Ft)

Standard Bumper ('92-97)
Bare chrome (no trim holes) F2TZ17757A (aftermarket FO1002236)
Set of bumper, trim, chin valance, & mounts (aftermarket) (no fasteners)

Turbo Diesel Bumper ('94-97)
Left side trim F3TZ17K833J interchange FO1058271
Right side trim F3TZ17K833H interchange FO1059271
Pair of outboard trims (aftermarket) FO1059271 & FO105827
Nostril trim F3TZ17K833K interchange FO1057272
Set of 3 trims (aftermarket) FO1059271, FO105827, & FO1057272
Set of bumper, trim, & mounts (aftermarket) (no chin valance or fasteners)

Removal
1. Support the bumper assembly and remove the four nuts (two each side) attaching the assembly to the frame mounting brackets.
2. Carefully lower the bumper assembly from vehicle and lay it on a protective surface.
3. If replacing bumper bar, remove front bumper horizontal pads (17C829) by pinching rear pegs & pushing them through, front fender apron and radiator support braces (16A023) or front license plate mounting bracket (17A386) by drilling out rivets.
4. Sight along the frame tabs, and bend them into alignment using a large adjustable wrench.

.

Installation
1. If bumper bar was replaced, install front bumper horizontal pads, front fender apron and radiator support braces or front license plate mounting bracket.
2. Align bumper assembly mounting studs to the holes in the frame mounting brackets.
3. Insert studs through slot in frame brackets. Loosely assemble nuts to hold front bumper (17757) to frame (5005) (side rail).
4. Align front bumper to front fenders (16005) and sheet metal stone deflector maintaining a parallel margin of 18-31mm (.76-1.24 inch). If rotation is an issue, use shim as required.
5. After front bumper is aligned, tighten nuts to 60-80 N-m (44-59 lb-ft) per TSB 95-07-07.

See also:
. . . .

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FrontClip92.JPG | Hits: 12909 | Size: 77.96 KB | Posted on: 12/31/06 | Link to this image


Front Clip '92-96 F-series & Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

'94-96 #6 has a deeper offset at the bottom & a wider plate at the top; there are also a pair of vertical rubber flaps along the sides of the radiator opening.

Wheel arch mouldings
LHF E7TZ16039A, E7TZ16039B, XC3Z-9829077-PTM, FO1290106
RHF E7TZ16038A, E7TZ16038B, XC3Z-9829076-PTM, FO1291106
LHR E7TZ-9829165-A
RHR E7TZ-9829164-A

.

See also:

. . . .

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'92-96/7 Front Wheelwells
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'92-96 Diesel Left Battery Tray

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'92-96 Hood Latch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'80-96 similar



1 U-Nut N804222-S100 (6mm)
2 Hood Latch Support Brace 16747
3 Hood Latch Control Handle and Cable F2TZ16916A, Dorman 912-041
4 Screw and Washer N803878-S307 (6mm)
5 Powertrain Control Module 12A650
6 Hood 16612 Ford F2TZ16612A, PartsLink FO1230121
7 U-Nut N623333-S100 (6mm)
8 Hood Assist Spring F4TZ16C644A
9 Screw and Washer N606688-S43B (6mm)
10 Hood Latch Control Clip 16907
11 Hood Latch 16700
12 Screw and Washer N802141-S58 (#6 sheet metal, 5.5mm hex)
A Tighten to 3-4 Nm (24-32 Lb-In)
B Tighten to 22-34 Nm (16-25 Lb-Ft)

See also:
. .

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'92-93 Grille Opening
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Similar to '94-97, which adds a rubber air flap to each side of the core support near 8B455.

Opening reinforcement F6TZ8A284AC
Bracket F2TZ8B455A
Lower air deflector F2TZ8327B
Radiator lower isolator/mount is E5TZ8125A

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'92-96 Grille
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 U-Nut (5 Req'd) N806851-S100 (#8 sheet metal)
2 Radiator Air Deflector 8326 (conceals headlight vertical adjusting screw)
3 Screw and Washer (6 Req'd) 6.0-8.0 N-m (53-71 In-Lb) N805230-S55 (6mm)
4 Radiator Grille 8200 (F6TZ-8200-AAA Grille argent (FO1200323); F4TZ-8200-A Grille chrome (FO1200173); F4TZ-8200-APTM Grille black (FO1200172); all chrome FO1200442
5 Radiator Grille Opening Panel Reinforcement 8A284 (F6TZ8A284AC, interchange FO1220113)
6 U-Nut (7 Req'd) N623332-S100 (6mm)
7 Front Bumper Stone Shield 17778 (F2TZ-17626-A)
8 Front Bumper (RH) Stone Deflector Filler 17E902 (F2TZ-17A861-A Right) & Pushpins (389358-S)
8 Front Bumper (LH) Stone Deflector Filler 17E940 (F2TZ-17A861-B Left) & Pushpins (389358-S)
9 Screw (5 Req'd) 1.0-2.0 N-m (9-18 In-Lb) N801603-S55 (#8 sheet metal)
10 Blue Oval (E7TZ9842528A)
11 Radiator Core Support (gas engines) F4TZ16138B (FO1225122)
12 Hood Latch Support Brace 16864
13 U-Nut (2 Req'd Each Side) N805889-S100 (6mm)
14 Screw and Washer (4 Req'd Each Side) 9-14 N-m (80-124 In-Lb) N805230-S55 (6mm)
15 Radiator Grille Opening Panel Bracket 8C142 F2TZ8B455A
16 Headlamp Door 13043
17 Park Bulb #916 (2 Req'd) 13N019
18 Turn/Park Bulb #3157K (2 Req'd) 13465
19 Headlamp Assembly 13005 Bulb #9007 (2 Req'd)
20 Side Marker Bulb #194NA (2 Req'd) 13465
21 Headlamp Bulb Retainer (2 Req'd) 13N019
22 Headlamp Retainer Clip (3 Req'd Each Side) 13N020
23 Screw (2 Req'd Each Side) 1.4-2.3 N-m (13-20 In-Lb) N80 1603-S55 (#8 sheet metal)
24 J-Nut (2 Req'd Each Side) N806851-S100 (#8 sheet metal)
25 Nut and Washer (2 Req'd Each Side) 4-7 N-m (36-61 In-Lb) N62 1906-S55M (6mm thread, 11mm hex)
26 Wiring Assembly 12A581
27 Headlamp Adjusting Nut (part of 13005, 3 Req'd Each Side)
28 Headlamp Horizontal Adjusting Screw (part of 13005) sets side-to-side aim

'94-96 #12 has a deeper offset at the bottom & a wider plate at the top; there are also a pair of vertical rubber flaps along the sides of the radiator opening.

.

To replace a headlight (#19) or bulb (not shown), open the hood & pull out the rubber filler (#2) between the core support (#11) & grille reinforcement (#5). Use snap ring pliers or a long pick to release the 3 metal clips (#22) on the splined plastic adjuster nuts (#27). They're VERY difficult, but ultimately, they just have to slide straight up. A prybar or flat screwdriver may help. Then pull the headlight (#19) out of the grille, and unplug the bulb (or remove it if you want to reuse your bulbs). Tuck the connector (or bulb) back inside the grille and inspect the new headlight. One of the adjuster nuts has NO adjuster bolt (top outboard). Place the h/l fully into place (aligning the splined nuts with the holes), but DON'T install the bulb/connector or clips. Note the fore/aft position of the corner of the h/l closest to the NON-adjustable nut. Remove the h/l and adjust that nut by hand so that corner of the h/l is flush with the grille when fully installed. It will take a few tries. Once you're satisfied, install the bulb/connector, put the h/l into place, and install the clips. Then aim the h/l using a 4mm socket per this diagram:
.

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'92-96 Headlight
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The NA bulb goes in the socket with the amber tape on its wiring harness takeout, and lights the clear side lens 15A201.

The headlight bulb connector is WPT-110.

To remove the headlight door (13064), reach behind the headlight and remove the two 11mm (7/16") nuts (N621906-S55M) recessed forward of the core support. Then remove the 2 phillips screws (N801603-S55) on top, and pull the door forward to remove the 3 bulb holders (13410 & 13411).

To remove the headlight (13008 ), use a pick, prybar, or snap-ring pliers to spread the tabs of each of the 3 clips (13M129) while pulling the clip straight up off the mount (13032). Then push each mount through the header panel (8A284) and extract the headlight assembly. Press the connector tabs where indicated, and pull the connector off the bulb (13N021) BEFORE twisting the ring (13N019) to remove the bulb from the reflector (13007)

See also:
. . . .

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Headlight Aim '80-86 & '92-96
'87-91 is essentially the same as '92-96.

The '92-96 horizontal adjustment is hidden under a rubber seal between the grille opening reinforcement & the core support.

NOTE: Sagging springs, faulty wheel alignment or improper tracking of the rear axle may affect headlamp aim.

Before making any adjustments on headlamp (13008 ), perform the following preparatory steps:
Remove ice or mud from under fenders. Make sure that all tires are inflated to recommended pressures. Make sure there is no load in the vehicle other than the fuel tank half full. Clean lenses and aiming pads. Check for headlamp bulb (13007) burn-out and proper beam switching. Verify that lamp output is well toward normal new lamp value. Bounce the vehicle and allow to settle. For aerodynamically styled headlamps, set the non-adjustable corner (outboard top) so the face of the lens corner is flush with the headlight door.

- Rotunda Headlamp Aiming Kit 196-00001 or equivalent.
To aim the aerodynamically styled headlamps, the adjustable aimer adapters provided in the kit must be used. Adjustment aimer adapter positions are moulded into the bottom edge of the headlamp lens. Set and lock the adjustable adapters, attach each adapter to its mechanical aimer and aim headlamps per latest instructions in the kit. The equipment in Rotunda Headlamp Aiming Kit 196-00001 or equivalent can be calibrated to accommodate a slight slope in the floor, making it usable almost anyplace in the garage. However, the area must be reasonably flat.

- Alternate Aiming Method
On a dark, straight, flat road with no traffic, stop the vehicle without steering, keeping the vehicle aligned with its lane. With the headlamps on, open the hood for adjuster access and block one headlamp so the other's beam is apparent. Adjust the visible beam to strike near the horizon directly ahead of itself, using the lane lines as guides. Repeat for the other headlamp.

NOTE: Access holes are provided for '80-86 to allow headlamp adjustment without removing the headlamp door (13064).

For sealed-beam (glass) lamps, always bring each beam into final position by turning the headlamp adjusting screw (13032) clockwise so that the headlamp will be held against the tension springs when the operation is completed.

See also:
. .

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F-Series Sliding Rear Window
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Metal latch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CXH0YM/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IXXRKTU/

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'85-93 F-series Cargo Lamp
ERROR: '94-96/7 F-series use a CHMSL cargo lamp, like '92-96 Broncos.

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Clearance95.jpg | Hits: 527 | Size: 45.57 KB | Posted on: 1/16/22 | Link to this image


Clearance Light Wiring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 M3G102 Tape
2 15A404 Wiring Assembly
3 -- Locator, Position in Hole Provided (Part of 14401)
4 14401 Wiring Assembly
5 55998-S100 Screw
6 15442 Lamp Assembly
7 38814-S36M J-Nut
A -- Tighten to 1-2 N-m (9-18 Lb-In)

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Fleetside Beds
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

For mounting, see:

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Pickup Tailgate Latch & Hinge
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Clip 382929-S
2 Link 43868
3 Bumper 44482
4 Nut (11mm) and Washer Assembly N621906-S43M
5 Roller 430B58
6 Tailgate 40702
7 Insert 430B44
8 Screw (T50) N804563-S100
9 Tailgate Support Retaining Bumper 402A10
10 Tailgate Latch Bracket 431D76
11 Screw (T50) and Washer N805156-S39
12 Strike Bolt (T50) 432A06
13 Tailgate Latch Release Handle 431C62
14 Tailgate Latch Remote Control 43170
15 Nut and Washer N620480-36
16 Screw and Washer N606689-S39
17 Tailgate Check Cable 43052
A -- Tighten to 9-14 N-m (7-10 Lb-Ft)
B -- Tighten to 22-34 N-m (16-25 Lb-Ft)

Removal and Installation
1. Remove tailgate inside panel cover retaining screws. Remove panel.
2. Disconnect two tailgate latch release links from tailgate latch control assembly.
3. If removing handle and control assembly, remove two nut and washer assemblies to tailgate outside panel.
4. Remove tailgate latch assembly screws.
5. Remove latch assembly (both sides) by sliding link rod out of tailgate.
6. Remove link from latch assembly.
7. Remove check cable from latch assembly by removing retaining screw from latch. Remove cable.

For installation, follow removal procedures in reverse order.
NOTE: Prior to installation, take out the slack in links and latches by pulling link to center of tailgate. Close plastic clip over closest thread of link.

The unnamed item above the #6 label is an anti-rattle bushing (Ford PN: F6TZ-99430B23-AA) that went into production in 1996, but fits all 90-96 tailgates (TSB 96-12-12). They are also available in a 4-piece kit as Dorman HELP PN: 38641 and as generic CH1263SET.

See also:
. . .

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/tailgate/tailgates/f2tz-99425a34-a-os-tailgate-finish-panel-smo

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Flareside Bed

Installation:

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Early Stepside Bed

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'80-96/7 Rear Wheelwells
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Bed Shim Fabrication & Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The valance and bodyside panels can be slightly adjusted by loosening their attaching bolts. However, if the panels cannot be aligned satisfactorily, the attaching brackets and underbody should be checked for damage.

The pickup box design is the same for both F-Series SuperCab and Regular cab. The rear of the regular cab body is 3mm wider on each side than the front width of the pickup box. However on SuperCab vehicles, the front of the pickup box is 7mm wider on each side than the rear width of the cab body.

If there is a cab-to-box alignment concern, use the following instructions to correct the situation.

1. Loosen all box attaching bolts and remove the four bolts on the low side of the box.
2. Raise the low side of the box and insert the shims between the top of the frame and bottom of the box cross sills according to the following chart.
3. Install the bolts listed below on the side of the box that was shimmed and tighten all box bolt nuts to 54-95 N-m (40-70 ft.-lbs.).
4. If pickup box shims are installed, the following box attaching bolts must be used on the side of the box that was shimmed:
. #1 Bolt Location -- No change, use existing bolt (4.25 inches long, oval shoulder)
. #2 Bolt Location -- Procure new bolt (4.00 inches long, square shoulder)
. #3 Bolt Location -- Use current #2 bolt (3.50 inches long, square shoulder)
. #4 Bolt Location -- Same as current #1 bolt (4.25 inches long, oval shoulder)

1 N803022-S40 Box Bolt No. 4, M12-1.75 x 88.9
2 N803020-S40 Box Bolt No. 3, M12-1.75 x 76.2
3 N803020-S40 Box Bolt No. 2, M12-1.75 x 76.2
4 N803023-S40 Box Bolt No. 1, M12-1.75 x 108
5 N620483-S2 Nut
6 -- Sill No. 2 (8-Ft. Box Only) (Part of 11215)
7 -- Sill No. 5 (Part of 11215)
A -- Tighten to 54-95 N-m (40-70 Lb-Ft)
8 N803022-S40 Box Bolt
9 11215 Pickup Box Floor Pan
10 -- Pickup Box Sills (Parts of 11215)
11 N803334-S2 Shims, 2.5 Inch O.D. x .75 I.D. x .060 (Quantity Changes with Location)
12 5005 Chassis Frame
13 -- Drill 3/16 Inch Pilot Hole, in Steady Rest
14 N80334-S2 Shim
15 -- 1/4 In. x 3/4 Sheet Metal Screw
16 -- Drill 3/16 In. Pilot, Two Places in Sill

NOTE: Bolts should be held down from top of box to prevent the shoulder from popping out of the floor while starting the nut. Tighten all bolts to 54-95 N-m (40-70 ft.-lbs.).

Alternatively, all bolts can be changed to the later-style Torx-head (or aftermarket Allen-head) with U-nuts on the frame using the information on this page & the NEXT 2:


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'78-86 Rear Bumpers
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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'80-96 F-series & Bronco Taillamps
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Rear Lamp ('87-91) RH 13404; LH 13405
2 Stop/Turn/Hazard/Parking Bulb (3357) 13465
3 Stop/Turn/Hazard/Parking Socket & Wiring Assembly 13A409
4 Nut (2 Req'd) 383356
5 Reverse Socket & Wiring Assembly 13A409
6 Reverse Bulb (3356) 13465
7 Screw (2 Req'd) 56000-S49
8 Screw (2 Req'd) 56911-S40 or N801603-S61
9 Rear Lamp ('92-96) RH 13404; LH 13405

Some '87-89 trucks may use '80-86 bulbs & sockets.

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'80-96 Rear Bumpers
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1) Pad upper ('92-96) F2TZ17B807E, lower E7TZ17B807B
6) Bracket inner F-series step Right SRW F7TZ17787AA DRW ; Left SRW F7TZ17788AA DRW EOTZ17787D; Bronco step Right FOTZ17787A; Left FOTZ17788A
11) Bracket outer F-series step Right SRW F7TZ17795BA, DRW F7TZ17795AA; Left SRW F7TZ17796BA DRW F7TZ17796AA; Bronco step Right FOTZ17795A; Left FOTZ17796A
15) Chrome step F2TZ17906A (FO1101126, 190-01596A), Argent step YL3Z17906AAE

. .

'80-91 non-step bumper new AMD ~$220 in 2020

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Lightning Bumper

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'93-95 Lightning Fog Lights
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

A - Relay
B - Lamps
C - MAP (IDK why it's shown in this diagram)
D - Headlight Switch
E - Fog Light Switch

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ITT Reel Light used in ~'80~90 Ford trucks & later Jeeps has ~25' of self-retracting cord (twists, knots, kinks, & dirt inside the case interfere), a tilt switch (which can keep the light on if the truck is parked on a steep incline), a magnet on the side of the bulb holder (for positioning the bulb on the steel body), and a globe to protect the bulb (but the bulbholder tabs break off, and the more-common oversize bulb melts the globe).

.

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'80-86 Underhood Tool Box

.

Not compatible with auxilliary battery tray:


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Roof Rack

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Type 1 Swingaway Tire Carrier

If the nut won't turn AFTER REMOVING THE PADLOCK, use the chisel tip of the lug wrench in the exposed end of the nut to turn it.

.

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Swingaway Spare Tire Carrier Types '78-96
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Specific year ranges are approximate.

FOTZ-1432-A Carrier frame '80-86
F2TZ-1433-A Carrier frame '90-96 (1432)
EOTZ-1478-A Hinge, upper '80-86
EOTZ-1479-A Hinge, lower '80-86
E7TZ-1478-A Hinge, upper '90-96
E7TZ-1479-A Hinge, lower '90-96
EOTZ-1A398-A Latch
FOTZ-1A429-A Spare support
F1TZ-1A401-A Reinforcement plate, strike
F4TZ-9845026-AAC EB tire cover
N803515-S (A1-65-A) Swing Pin Bushing C5TZ-2461-A '78-96
D8TZ-1487-A Hinge Pin '78-96
FOTZ-1A043-B Wheel Lock '87-96 (1386)
E8AZ-1012-A Lug Nut '78-96
D8TZ-1A366-B Carrier Bumper '78-96
F1TZ-9847104-A Tailgate Scuff Pad '78-96
E8TZ-1A477-A Carrier Arm Sleeve '90-96
F1TZ-1A401-A Reinforcement '87-96
F2TZ-1469-A Strike '90-96
F2TZ-1A398-A Latch '90-96
FOTZ-1A459-A Operating Rod '90-96
F2TZ-1A360-A Latch Handle '90-96
FOTZ-1400-A Bushing & Bolt Kit '90-96
FOTZ-1A361-A Handle Spring '90-96
NOT SHOWN
Rubber Bumper for 1469 Type 3

Types 2 & 3 require a locking lug & key (1386) as shown here:

Aluminum wheels on some vehicles are equipped with anti-theft lug nuts (one per wheel) that are installed during vehicle pre-delivery. The key is on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. To allow vehicle service in the event the key has been misplaced, a Rotunda Master Key Set 164R-3103 or equivalent is available at most Ford dealer service departments. The key has a circular keyway that is matched to the slot in the anti-theft lug nut.

Apparently, there are subtypes for Types 1 & 2. '78-79s apparently have different body castings (1478-9) with diagonal bolt holes on the sides, & 3 U-bolts (not called out) holding the vertical bar to the main tube. Early Type 2 have a single smaller bent tube (arched at the top) reinforcing the main tube where this diagram shows 2 separate straight tubes.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following TSB applies to the Type 3 latch only.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
TSB 90-07-13
Publication Date: March 28, 1990
LIGHT TRUCK: 1990 BRONCO

ISSUE: High latching and operating efforts of the swing-away spare tire carrier may be caused by a lack of lubrication on the latch and striker assemblies.

ACTION: Lubricate the swing-away spare tire carrier latch and striker assemblies. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Make sure the spare tire carrier is latched. Both the primary and secondary latches must be engaged.
2. Spray multi-purpose grease (D7AZ-19584-AA) onto the latch mechanism located on the vertical bar of the swing-away carrier.
3. Make sure the tailgate striker is in the full up position and square. Do not allow striker misalignment.
4. Close the carrier.
* Both the primary and secondary positions must be latched.
* If the carrier does not latch, re-adjust the tailgate striker as required.
5. Lubricate the roll pin on the striker and the portion of the striker which engages the rubber sleeve on the carrier.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
D7AZ-19584-AA Multi-Purpose Grease

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
900713A Lubricate Tire Carrier 0.4 Hr.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
See also:
. . . . . . . . . . . .

Bronco swingaway installed on a pickup: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1900840023474511/permalink/3800640556827772/

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Bronco Inside Spare '78-96

. . .

I've never seen the lock assembly.

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Inside Tire Carrier

. . .

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Pickup Spare Tire Carriers
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. . .
. .

Tray F5TZ1443AA
Mount bolt E4TZ1408D
J-bolt E2TZ1408C
The center hold-down bolt F2TZ1448A/EOTZ1448C looks like a carriage bolt, but has a special diamond shoulder instead of square. Very few trucks have the drop bracket 1434 in the STANDARD view; most simply have a long 1408 bolt.
Speed nut N801503S2(AM96R)
Knob E9TZ1474A



The wood spacer 1A375 is only used on heavy trucks with the spare-tire-delete option.

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In-Box Tire Carrier (Canada only)

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Tire Rotation Patterns

F-150 and Bronco with steel wheels use conventional 1/2-20 lug nuts.
F-150 and Bronco with aluminum wheels use styled steel 1/2-20 bulge lug nuts.
F-250 steel wheels use conventional 9/16-18 lug nuts.
F-250 HD aluminum wheels use conventional 9/16-18 lug nuts.
F-350 single rear wheels use conventional 9/16-18 lug nuts.
F-350 and F-Super Duty dual rear wheels use flat (integral two-piece swiveling) 9/16-18 lug nuts; conventional NOT permitted.

WARNING: When a wheel is installed, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub, brake drum, or brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
RETIGHTEN to proper torque specifications at 800 km (500 miles) after any wheel change or ANY OTHER TIME the lugnuts have been loosened.

See also:
. .

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Lug Patterns & Measuring
Note that the measurement shown for 5 lugs is a common estimation; the actual measurement is (like all others) the diameter of the circle that passes through the centers of the lugs.

Broncos & F150s require a 3.45" center hole for 4WDs from '66-96 (and ~'75-96 for F150s).

For tightening patterns, see:



For torque specs, see this caption:



Lug Nut: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 64000
(4 black,13/16" drive) McGard 64030
(100 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 69400
(100 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 69410
(4 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64010
(4 black bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64029
(8 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 64805
(4 chrome Spline drive) McGard 65340
(4 black Spline drive) McGard 65340BK
(4 chrome Spline drive w/Blue Cap) McGard 65340BC
(4 chrome Spline drive w/Red Cap) McGard 65340RC
13/16" Spline drive adapter McGard 65300



Wheel Lock: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome, 3/4" drive) McGard 24138
(4 chrome tuner,13/16" drive) McGard 25240
(5 chrome, 13/16" drive) McGard 24530
(4 chrome, 13/16" drive) McGard 24197
(4 chrome Spline short w/Blue Cap, 13/16" drive) McGard 65330BC
(4 chrome Spline short w/Red Cap, 13/16" drive) McGard 65330RC
(5 chrome tuner, 13/16" drive) McGard 25540
(5 black tuner, 13/16" drive) McGard 25540BK
(4 black tuner, 13/16" drive) McGard 25340
(4 black tuner short, 13/16" drive) McGard 25330
(4 chrome, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24130
(4 chrome short, 13/16" drive) McGard 24194
(4 chrome short, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24193
(4 black short, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24025
(4 chrome long, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24198
(4 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 24109
(5 chrome, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24538
(4 black, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24038
(5 black, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24548

Lug & Lock Kits: (Made in USA)
(16 chrome bulge & 4 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84550
(16 black bulge & 4 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84551
(16 black & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84531
(16 chrome Spline short & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65530
(16 black Spline short & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65530BK
(16 chrome Spline short w/Blue Cap & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65530BC
(16 chrome & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84530
(16 chrome Spline & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65540
(16 black Spline & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65540BK
(18 chrome & 5 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84562
(18 black & 5 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84562BK
(18 chrome bulge & 5 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84563
(18 black bulge & 5 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84563BK

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Wheel Center Cap (1130)

Wheel 1007
Screw 389465-S45 (UU-58K): Dorman 13840
Screw Insert 1A100: Ford D7TZ-1A100-A

Lug Nut 1012: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 64000
(4 black,13/16" drive) McGard 64030
(100 chrome,13/16" drive) McGard 69400
(100 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 69410
(4 chrome bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64010
(4 black bulge, 3/4" drive) McGard 64029
(8 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 64805
(4 chrome Spline drive) McGard 65340
(4 black Spline drive) McGard 65340BK
(4 chrome Spline drive w/Blue Cap) McGard 65340BC
(4 chrome Spline drive w/Red Cap) McGard 65340RC
13/16" Spline drive adapter McGard 65300

Wheel Lock 1386: (Made in USA)
(4 chrome, 3/4" drive) McGard 24138
(4 chrome tuner,13/16" drive) McGard 25240
(5 chrome, 13/16" drive) McGard 24530
(4 chrome, 13/16" drive) McGard 24197
(4 chrome Spline short w/Blue Cap, 13/16" drive) McGard 65330BC
(4 chrome Spline short w/Red Cap, 13/16" drive) McGard 65330RC
(5 chrome tuner, 13/16" drive) McGard 25540
(5 black tuner, 13/16" drive) McGard 25540BK
(4 black tuner, 13/16" drive) McGard 25340
(4 black tuner short, 13/16" drive) McGard 25330
(4 chrome, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24130
(4 chrome short, 13/16" drive) McGard 24194
(4 chrome short, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24193
(4 black short, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24025
(4 chrome long, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24198
(4 chrome extra-long, 7/8" drive) McGard 24109
(5 chrome, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24538
(4 black, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24038
(5 black, 3/4" & 13/16" drive) McGard 24548

Lug & Lock Kits: (Made in USA)
(16 chrome bulge & 4 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84550
(16 black bulge & 4 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84551
(16 black & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84531
(16 chrome Spline short & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65530
(16 black Spline short & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65530BK
(16 chrome Spline short w/Blue Cap & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65530BC
(16 chrome & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84530
(16 chrome Spline & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65540
(16 black Spline & 4 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 65540BK
(18 chrome & 5 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84562
(18 black & 5 locks, 13/16" drive) McGard 84562BK
(18 chrome bulge & 5 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84563
(18 black bulge & 5 locks, 3/4" drive) McGard 84563BK

Center Cap & Wheel:

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Rims & Hubcaps

. .

The design labeled "Argent Steel" should actually be called "Styled Steel". It was available both in Argent finish (silver paint) and in chrome.

Aluminum was used up to '93, then alloy.

Center caps are red up to '94, then black.

D7TZ-1130-A Wheel Cover 10.75"
D7TZ-1130-B Wheel Cover 10.75" 4WD front
E2TZ-1130-A Center Cap 7.125"OD, chrome w/red insert
E2TZ-1130-B Center Cap 7.125"OD, chrome 4WD front
E2TZ-1130-C Center Cap 7.125"OD, argent w/red insert
E2TZ-1130-D Center Cap 7.125"OD, argent 4WD front
F5TZ-1130-D Center Cap 7.125"OD, chrome w/black insert
F2TZ-1130-A FOMOCO Dog Dish
F2UZ-1130-C FOMOCO Dog Dish, 4WD front
E1TZ-1130-A Wheel Cover 16.25"
D9TZ-1130-B Wheel Cover 16.25" 4WD front
D8TZ-1015-E Steel Wagon Wheel (10-slot) 15x7"
EOTZ-1015-D Steel Wheel 15x4.5"
YC2Z-1015-AB Steel Plain Wheel 15x5.5"
D8TZ-1015-C Steel Wheel 15x6"
EOTZ-1015-B Steel Wheel 15x7"
D1TZ-1015-A Steel Wheel 16.5x6"
E3TZ-1007-B Steel Styled Wheel, 5-slot
E2TZ-1007-A Cast (Aluminum?) Styled Wheel
D8TZ-1015-C Styled Wire Wheel
F2TZ-1015-A Styled Argent Wheel, 5-spoke
F2TZ-1015-B Styled Chrome Wheel, 5-spoke
FOTZ-1007-A Aluminum Wheel
F4TZ-1007-A Alloy Wheel

Aluminum & Alloy rims use nylon insert D7TZ-1A100-A for the center cap screws.

For torque specs, see this caption:

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Tire Size, metric
To find the APPROXIMATE height of a metric tire, multiply the section width by the aspect ratio/100, double it, convert to inches, and add the rim size. For the ACTUAL size, look up the specs for the particular brand, model, & size on TireRack.com or the manufacturer's website.

Flotation tires are sized by nominal height in inches x nominal width in inches, construction type, and rim diameter in inches, like:
31x10.50R15 (about 31" tall; ~10.5" wide; radial construction; 15" rim)
35x12.50B17 (~35" tall; ~12.5" wide; bias-ply; 17" rim)

For more info, including the DOT code (date of mfr.), see this:
https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment/tires#aging
DEAD- http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/TireSafety/ridesonit/brochure.html -DEAD
The "DOT" number has three 4-digit groups; the first two contain the manufacturer ID & other proprietary info; the last group is the date code in this format: the production week (00-52) & 2-digit year. So the last group for a tire built the 40th week of 2012 would be "4012".

. . . .

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Tire Sizes & Pressures 1/2-ton

See also:
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Tire Service
Punctured tires should be removed from the wheel and permanently serviced from the inside using a combination service plug and vulcanized patch. When servicing a puncture, always follow the manufacturer's instructions for using the service kit. Service punctures in the tread area only. Never attempt to service punctures in the tire shoulders or sidewalls. In addition, do not service any tire that has sustained the following damage:
* bulges or blisters
* ply separation
* broken or cracked beads
* fabric cracks or cuts
* tires worn to the belts, or with wear indicators visible
* punctures larger than 6.35 mm (1/4 inch)
WARNING: Tire sealants that are injected through the valve and cap are not to be used to service punctured tires as they can produce wheel rust and cause tire imbalance.

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Wheel & Tire Runout Measurements

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Tire Wear Symptoms
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Wheels And Tires Conditions:
* Tires Show Excess Wear on Edge of Tread

Possible Source(s):
- Underinflated tires.
Action(s) to take:
- ADJUST air pressure in tires.

Possible Source(s):
- Vehicle overloaded.
- High-speed cornering.
Action(s) to take:
- CORRECT as required.

Possible Source(s):
- Incorrect toe setting.
Action(s) to take:
- SET toe to specification. REFER to «Section 04-00».

* Tires Show Excess Wear in Center of Tread
Possible Source(s):
- Tires overinflated.
Action(s) to take:
- ADJUST air pressure in tires.

* Other Excessive Tire Wear Problems
Possible Source(s):
- Improper tire pressure.
Action(s) to take:
- ADJUST air pressure in tires.

Possible Source(s):
- Incorrect tire/wheel usage.
Action(s) to take:
- INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination.

Possible Source(s):
- Loose or leaking shock absorbers.
Action(s) to take:
- TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. REFER to «Section 04-01A» or «Section 04-01B» (front) or «Section 04-02» (rear).

Possible Source(s):
- Front end out of alignment.
Action(s) to take:
- ALIGN front end. REFER to «Section 04-00».

Possible Source(s):
- Front wheel bearings out of adjustment.
Action(s) to take:
- ADJUST front wheel bearings.

Possible Source(s):
- Loose, worn or damaged suspension components, bushings and ball joints.
Action(s) to take:
- INSPECT, REPAIR or REPLACE as required.

Possible Source(s):
- Wheel and tire assembly out of balance.
Action(s) to take:
- BALANCE wheel and tire assembly.

Possible Source(s):
- Excessive lateral or radial runout of wheel or tire.
Action(s) to take:
- CHECK, REPAIR or REPLACE as required. USE dial indicator to determine runout.

Possible Source(s):
- Tires need rotating.
Action(s) to take:
- ROTATE tires.

* Wheel Mounting Is Difficult
Possible Source(s):
- Improper application or mismatched parts, including lug bolts and lug nuts.
Action(s) to take:
- FOLLOW manufacturer's specifications.

Possible Source(s):
- Corroded, worn or damaged parts.
Action(s) to take:
- CLEAN or REPLACE.

* Wheel Rusted or Corroded
Possible Source(s):
- Poor maintenance.
Action(s) to take:
- KEEP clean and PROTECT with paint.

* Wobble or Shimmy Affecting Wheel Runout
Possible Source(s):
- Damaged wheel (eventually damaged wheel bearings and uneven tire wear).
Action(s) to take:
- INSPECT wheel rims for dents. REPAIR or REPLACE as required.

* Excessive Vehicle Vibration, Rough Steering, or Severe Tire Wear
Possible Source(s):
- Loose or improper attaching parts.
Action(s) to take:
- TIGHTEN or REPLACE.

Possible Source(s):
- Overloading or unbalanced loads.
Action(s) to take:
- CHECK wheel and tire specifications against work load requirements. RECOMMEND correct tire and wheel. CHECK loading procedure.

* Vehicle Vibrations
Possible Source(s):
- Tires/wheel mismatched.
Action(s) to take:
- INSTALL correct tire/wheel combination.

Possible Source(s):
- Inflation pressure too high or low.
Action(s) to take:
- ADJUST air pressure in tires.

Possible Source(s):
- Uneven tire wear.
Action(s) to take:
- REFER to «Wheel and Tire Checking Procedure» in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.

Possible Source(s):
- Out-of-balance wheel or tire or wheel hub and brake drum assembly.
Action(s) to take:
- DETERMINE the out-of-balance component and BALANCE or REPLACE.

Possible Source(s):
- Bent or distorted wheel disc from overloading, road impact hazards or improper handling.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE wheel. Attempts to straighten wheel can result in fractures in the steel and weakening of the disc or the weld between disc and rim. CHECK loading and operating conditions and shop practices.

Possible Source(s):
- Out-of-round wheel or tire (excessive radial runout).
Action(s) to take:
- USE a dial indicator to verify runout reading. REPLACE the wheel or tire and CHECK for overloading and unbalanced loads, rugged operating conditions, proper wheel and tire specifications.

Possible Source(s):
- Improperly seated bead.
Action(s) to take:
- VERIFY correct tire/wheel usage and REMOUNT tire.

Possible Source(s):
- Excessive wheel or tire lateral runout.
Action(s) to take:
- USE a dial indicator to verify runout reading. REPLACE wheel or tire.

Possible Source(s):
- Loose wheel mountings -- damaged lug bolts, lug nuts, enlarged wheel hub bolt holes, worn or broken wheel hub face or foreign material on mounting surfaces.
Action(s) to take:
- TIGHTEN or REPLACE worn or damaged parts. CLEAN mounting surfaces.

Possible Source(s):
- Defective wheel bearings.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE worn or damaged bearing sets.

Possible Source(s):
- Brake rotor imbalance.
Action(s) to take:
- CHECK for uneven brake rotor wear. If present, TURN both brake rotors. CHECK fins for caked mud or debris. If no external causes are evident, brake rotor may have a heavy spot. To confirm, SUBSTITUTE a known good brake rotor or shift brake rotor to other side of vehicle and ROAD TEST again. If heavy spot is indicated, REPLACE brake rotor.

Possible Source(s):
- Wheel hub bolt runout.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE wheel hub or axle shaft.

Possible Source(s):
- Water in tires.
Action(s) to take:
- REMOVE water.

Possible Source(s):
- Loose or worn engine or transmission mounts.
Action(s) to take:
- TIGHTEN or REPLACE.

Possible Source(s):
- Improper pinion angle.
Action(s) to take:
- REALIGN assembly to specifications. If damaged, REPLACE pinion and ring gear as a set.

Possible Source(s):
- Improper front end alignment.
Action(s) to take:
- ALIGN front end.

Possible Source(s):
- Loose or worn driveline or suspension parts.
Action(s) to take:
- IDENTIFY location of vibration carefully as it may be transmitted through frame making a rear end vibration appear to come from the front. REPAIR or REPLACE loose and worn parts.

Possible Source(s):
- Excessive driveshaft runout or imbalance.
Action(s) to take:
- BALANCE or REPLACE driveshaft as necessary.

Possible Source(s):
- Worn or damaged U-joints.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE worn U-joints.

* Cracked or Broken Wheel Discs (Center Portion of Wheel). Cracks develop in the wheel disc from hand hole to hand hole, from hand hole to rim, or from hand hole to lug bolt. Wheel hub bolt holes become worn, elongated or deformed. Metal builds up around wheel hub bolt hole edges, cracks develop from wheel hub bolt hole to wheel hub bolt hole. Related driver complaints: unusual operating noise or vibration and on-the-road failures.
Possible Source(s):
- Metal fatigue resulting from abusive handling.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE wheel. CHECK position of wheel on vehicle for working load specifications.

Possible Source(s):
- Truck operated with loose wheel mounting.
Action(s) to take:
CHECK for:
- Installation of correct lug bolts and lug nuts, and correct torque specifications.
- Cracked or broken lug bolts. REPLACE.
- Worn wheel hub face. MACHINE if not excessive, or REPLACE if severe.
- Broken or cracked wheel hub barrel. REPLACE.
- Worn wheel hub bolt grooves. REPLACE or INSTALL recommended serrated lug bolts.
- Rust streaks fanning out from wheel hub bolt holes are a sure indication that the lug nuts are or have been loose.
CLEAN mounting surfaces and RETIGHTEN lug nuts periodically.

* Cracks Develop in Rim Base Back (Rim Bead Seat) or the Gutter Area (Drop Well Radii)
Possible Source(s):
- Overloading or abusive use.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE wheel. CHECK loading and operating conditions. AVOID overinflation of tires. CHECK specs for rim load capacity, working loads, tire size, ply rating and tire construction.

Possible Source(s):
- Improper use of tools.
Action(s) to take:
- CHECK mounting, demounting, and maintenance procedures.

* Dual Tires Rubbing
Possible Source(s):
- Insufficient wheel spacing.
Action(s) to take:
- CHECK tire and wheel sizes. Make certain proper size tires and wheels are used.

Possible Source(s):
- Overloading.
Action(s) to take:
- REDUCE weight.

Possible Source(s):
- Underinflation.
Action(s) to take:
- INFLATE tires to specifications.

* Damaged Wheel Hub Bolt Threads
Possible Source(s):
- Sliding wheel across lug bolts during assembly.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug bolts. FOLLOW proper wheel installation procedure.

* Loose Brake Drum
Possible Source(s):
- Lug bolt too long.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug bolt with proper length lug bolt.

* Loose Inner Wheel
Possible Source(s):
- Excessive wheel hub bolt standout from mounting face of wheel hub permitting lug nut to bottom out.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug bolt with proper length lug bolt.

* Broken Lug Bolts
Possible Source(s):
- Loose lug nuts.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug bolts. FOLLOW proper torque procedure.

Possible Source(s):
- Overloading.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug bolts. COMPARE actual load against vehicle load ratings.

* Stripping Threads
Possible Source(s):
- Excessive torque.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug bolts. FOLLOW proper torque procedure.

* Rust Streaks from Wheel Hub Bolt Holes
Possible Source(s):
- Loose lug nuts.
Action(s) to take:
- CHECK complete assembly. REPLACE damaged parts. FOLLOW proper torque procedure.

* Damaged Lug Nuts
Possible Source(s):
- Loose wheel assembly.
- Overtightened lug nuts.
Action(s) to take:
- REPLACE lug nuts. FOLLOW proper torque procedure.

* Frozen Lug Nuts
Possible Source(s):
- Corrosion or galling.
Action(s) to take:
- If corrosion is slight, CLEAN away corrosion with a wire brush. If corrosion is excessive, REPLACE lug bolts and lug nuts.
- If condition persists, LUBRICATE first three threads of each lug bolt with a graphite-based lubricant. CAUTION: Do not permit lubricant to get on cone seats of wheel hub bolt holes or on cone angle of lug nuts.

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Tire Wear Symptoms & Solutions

- Tires show excess wear on edge of tread.
Possible Source(s): Under-inflated tires.
Action(s) to Take: Adjust air pressure in tires.

Possible Source(s): Vehicle overloaded.
Action(s) to Take: Correct as required.

Possible Source(s): High-speed cornering.
Action(s) to Take: Correct as required.

Possible Source(s): Incorrect toe setting.
Action(s) to Take: Set toe to specification.

- Tires show excess wear in center of tread.
Possible Source(s): Tires over-inflated.
Action(s) to Take: Adjust air pressure in tires.

- Other excessive tire wear problems.
Possible Source(s): Improper tire pressure.
Action(s) to Take: Adjust air pressure in tires.

Possible Source(s): Incorrect tire/wheel usage.
Action(s) to Take: Install correct tire and wheel combination.

Possible Source(s): Loose or leaking shock absorbers.
Action(s) to Take: Tighten or replace as necessary.

Possible Source(s): Front end out of alignment.
Action(s) to Take: Align front end.

Possible Source(s): Front wheel bearings out of adjustment.
Action(s) to Take: Adjust front wheel bearings.

Possible Source(s): Loose, worn or damaged suspension components, bushings and ball joints.
Action(s) to Take: Inspect, repair or replace as required.

Possible Source(s): Wheels and tires out of balance.
Action(s) to Take: Balance wheels and tires.

Possible Source(s): Excessive lateral and/or radial runout of wheel or tire.
Action(s) to Take: Check, repair or replace as required. Use dial indicator to accurately determine runout.

Possible Source(s): Tires need rotating.
Action(s) to Take: Rotate tires.

- Wheel mounting is difficult.
Possible Source(s): Improper application or mismatched parts, including studs and nuts.
Action(s) to Take: Follow manufacturers' specifications.

Possible Source(s): Corroded, worn or damaged parts.
Action(s) to Take: Clean or replace.

- Wheel-rust or corrosion.
Possible Source(s): Poor maintenance.
Action(s) to Take: Keep clean and protect with paint.

- Excessive vehicle vibration, rough steering, or severe tire wear.
Possible Source(s): Loose or improper attaching parts.
Action(s) to Take: Tighten or replace.

Possible Source(s): Overloading or unbalanced loads.
Action(s) to Take: Check wheel and tire specs against workload requirements. Recommend correct tire and rim. Check on loading procedure.

- Vehicle vibrations.
Possible Source(s): Tires/wheels mismatched.
Action(s) to Take: Install correct tire/wheel combination.

Possible Source(s): Inflation pressure too high or low.
Action(s) to Take: Adjust air pressure in tires.

Possible Source(s): Uneven tire wear.
Action(s) to Take: Refer to Tire Wear diagram.

Possible Source(s): Out-of-balance wheel and/or tire or hub and drum assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Determine the out-of-balance component and balance or replace.

Possible Source(s): Bent or distorted wheel disc from overloading, road impact hazards or improper handling.
Action(s) to Take: Replace wheel. Attempts to straighten wheel can result in fractures in the steel and weakening of the disc or the weld between disc and rim. Check loading and operating conditions and shop practices.

Possible Source(s): Out-of-round wheel or tire (excessive radial runout). Use a dial indicator to accurately verify runout reading.
Action(s) to Take: Replace the wheel or tire and check for overloading and unbalanced loads, rugged operating conditions, proper wheel and tire specifications.

Possible Source(s): Improperly seated bead.
Action(s) to Take: Verify correct tire/wheel usage and re-mount tire.

Possible Source(s): Excessive lateral runout (wheel or tire). Use a dial indicator to accurately verify runout reading.
Action(s) to Take: Replace wheel or tire.

Possible Source(s): Loose wheel mountings -- damaged studs, cap nuts, enlarged stud holes, worn or broken hub face or foreign material on mounting surfaces.
Action(s) to Take: Tighten or replace worn or damaged parts. Clean mounting surfaces.

Possible Source(s): Defective wheel bearings.
Action(s) to Take: Replace defective bearing sets.

Possible Source(s): Brake rotor imbalance.
Action(s) to Take: Check for uneven rotor wear. If present, turn both rotors. Check fins for caked mud or debris. If no external causes are evident, rotor may have a heavy spot. To confirm, substitute a known-good rotor or shift rotor to other side of vehicle and road test again. If heavy spot is indicated, replace rotor.

- Vehicle vibrations (Continued)
Possible Source(s): Wheel stud runout.
Action(s) to Take: Replace hub or axle shaft.

Possible Source(s): Water in tires.
Action(s) to Take: Remove water.

Possible Source(s): Loose or worn engine or transmission mounts.
Action(s) to Take: Tighten or replace.

Possible Source(s): Improper pinion angle.
Action(s) to Take: Realign assembly to specifications. If damaged, replace pinion and ring gear as a set.

Possible Source(s): Improper front end alignment.
Action(s) to Take: Align front end.

Possible Source(s): Loose or worn driveline or suspension parts.
Action(s) to Take: Identify location of vibration carefully as it may be transmitted through frame making a rear end vibration appear to come from the front. Repair or replace loose and worn parts.

Possible Source(s): Excessive driveshaft runout or imbalance.
Action(s) to Take: Balance or replace driveshaft as necessary.

Possible Source(s): Faulty U-joints.
Action(s) to Take: Replace worn U-joints.

- Cracked or broken wheel discs (center portion of wheel). Cracks develop in the wheel disc from hand hole to hand hole, from hand hole to rim, or from hand hole to stud. Stud holes become worn, elongated or deformed. Metal builds up around stud hole edges, cracks develop from stud hole to stud hole. Related driver complaints; unusual operating noise or vibration and on the road failures.

Possible Source(s): Metal fatigue resulting from abusive handling.
Action(s) to Take: Replace wheel. Check position of wheel on vehicle for working load specifications.

Possible Source(s): Truck operated with loose wheel mounting.
Action(s) to Take: Replace wheel and check for:
* Installation of correct studs and nuts, and recommended exact specifications.
* Cracked or broken studs, and replace.
* Worn hub face. Machine if not excessive, or replace if severe.
* Broken or cracked hub barrel, replace.
* Worn stud grooves, replace or install recommended serrated bolts.
* Clean mounting surfaces and re-torque cap nuts periodically.
* Rust streaks fanning out from stud holes are a sure indication that the cap nuts are or have been loose.

- Cracks develop in rim base back (rim bead seat) or the gutter area (drop well radii).
Possible Source(s): Overloading or abusive use.
Action(s) to Take: Replace wheel. Check loading and operating conditions. Avoid over inflation of tires. Check specs for rim load capacity, working loads, tire size, ply rating and tire construction.

Possible Source(s): Improper use of tools.
Action(s) to Take: Check mounting, demounting, and maintenance procedures.

- Dual tires rubbing (kissing).
Possible Source(s): Insufficient wheel spacing.
Action(s) to Take: Check tire and wheel sizes. Make certain proper size tire and wheels are used.

Possible Source(s): Overloading.
Action(s) to Take: Reduce weight.

Possible Source(s): Underinflation.
Action(s) to Take: Inflate tires to specifications.

- Damaged stud threads.
Possible Source(s): Sliding wheel across studs during assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Replace studs. Follow proper wheel installation procedure.

- Loose drum.
Possible Source(s): Stud too long.
Action(s) to Take: Replace stud with proper length stud.

- Loose inner wheel.
Possible Source(s): Excessive stud standout from mounting face of hub permitting wheel nut to bottom out.
Action(s) to Take: Replace stud with proper length stud.

- Broken studs.
Possible Source(s): Loose lug nuts.
Action(s) to Take: Replace studs. Follow proper torque procedure.

Possible Source(s): Overloading.
Action(s) to Take: Replace studs. Compare actual load against vehicle load ratings.

- Stripping threads.
Possible Source(s): Excessive torque.
Action(s) to Take: Replace studs. Follow proper torque procedure.

- Rust streaks from stud holes.
Possible Source(s): Loose lug nuts.
Action(s) to Take: Check complete assembly. Replace damaged parts. Follow proper torque procedure.

- Damaged lug nuts.
Possible Source(s): Loose wheel assembly.
Action(s) to Take: Replace lug nuts. Follow proper torque procedure.

Possible Source(s): Over tightened lug nuts.
Action(s) to Take: Follow proper torque procedure.

- Frozen lug nuts.
Possible Source(s): Corrosion or galling.
Action(s) to Take: If corrosion is slight, wire brush away corrosion. If corrosion is excessive, replace studs and nuts. If condition persists, lubricate first three threads of each stud with a graphite-based lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not permit lubricant to get on cone seats of stud holes or on cone angle of lug nuts.

Possible Source(s): Overloading.
Action(s) to Take: Reduce weight.

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Optional Air Horn Kit uses a manifold-vacuum-powered air pump (13801) to fill a reservoir with attached solenoid valve (13A888 ) to supply the horns.

D7AZ-13800-A Air Horn, chrome
D3AZ-13800-A Air Horn, painted


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'96 7.3L Glow Plug Relay On-Time

The glow plug relay (12A343) has a plastic base and two mounting bolts. It is operated by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) which senses engine oil temperature, PCM voltage and barometric pressure. When the engine oil temperature or the barometric pressure is low, the PCM activates the glow plug relay and the glow plugs. If the PCM voltage is too high, the powertrain control module deactivates the glow plug relay and the glow plugs immediately energize for a shorter duration, decreasing the modulation of the duty cycle.

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Glow Plug Lamp Control
The glow plug lamp (WAIT TO START) is located on the instrument panel and is controlled by the PCM. This lamp is used to indicate when to start the engine. The PCM energizes the glow plug lamp longer if the engine is very cold or if the barometric pressure is low.

The glow plug lamp is controlled by the following sequence:
PCM lights the WAIT TO START lamp after a key on reset occurs.
PCM determines the glow plug lamp activation time based on engine oil temperature, barometric pressure and battery voltage.
PCM turns off the WAIT TO START lamp when the timer counts to the number of seconds specified by the PCM. The glow plugs will normally remain on longer than the WAIT TO START lamp.

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Fuel Supply System consists of the following three major subsystems:

Fuel supply system
Injection control pressure system
Fuel injector assembly

The tandem fuel pump is a camshaft-driven, two-stage diaphragm/piston pump mounted in the engine "V."

Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank through the primary filter by the diaphragm section of the tandem fuel pump. Pressurized fuel (approximately 28 kPa [4 psi]) is supplied to the secondary filter and returned to the second stage of the tandem fuel pump. The piston-actuated second stage of the tandem fuel pump supplies 276-345 kPa (40-50 psi) of fuel to the rear of each cylinder head where it flows to a fuel rail machined in each cylinder head.

Drillings in the cylinder head route the fuel to the plunger area of the fuel injector which can pressurize the fuel to 124 MPa (18,000 psi) for delivery to the combustion chamber via a conventional nozzle/valve tip arrangement.

Return fuel is plumbed from fittings at the front of each cylinder head to a regulator block which contains a piston/spring type regulator valve that maintains pressure to approximately 345 kPa (50 psi). A de-aeration bleed orifice between the fuel filter and the regulator block vents air trapped in the fuel filter. Most of the fuel from the regulator is recirculated to the inlet of the piston (high pressure) stage of the transfer pump. Fuel return to the tank is limited by the fuel filler bleed orifice and a 0.0008mm (.020-inch) fuel return bleed orifice. This prevents the fuel from overheating in the tank.

1 9N184 Fuel Filter
2 %u2014 Tank Return Orifices (Part of 9155)
3 %u2014 Strainer Assembly (Part of 9155)
4 %u2014 Fuel Pressure Regulator (Part of 9155)
5 9F597 Schrader Valve
6 1825115C91 Cylinder Heads
7 9D308 Fuel Return Tube (LH)
8 9B273 Fuel Return Tube (RH)
9 %u2014 Piston Stage (Part of 9350)
10 %u2014 Diaphragm Stage (Part of 9350)
11 9002 Fuel Tank

Injection Pressure Control
The system uses hydraulically actuated injectors to pressurize the fuel inside the injectors. The hydraulic fluid, used to actuate the injectors, is engine oil.

Oil is drawn from the oil pan through the pickup tube by the engine oil pump. The engine oil pump is a gerotor-type pump driven by the crankshaft. Oil is fed through passages in the front cover to an oil reservoir mounted on top of the front cover.

The reservoir makes available a constant supply of oil to a high pressure hydraulic pump mounted in the engine "V." The high pressure pump is a gear-driven seven-plunger swash plate pump. High pressure oil is delivered by the high pressure pump to oil rails machined into the cylinder heads.

When an injector is electrically energized, a poppet valve is opened by an electronic solenoid mounted on the injector. Oil pressure is allowed to flow into the injector and act on the amplifier piston. When injection is ended, the pressure on top of the amplifier piston is vented by the poppet valve through the top portion of the injector and directed by the oil troughs mounted on the injector to a push tube hole for return to the crankcase.

1 1825263C91 Oil Pressure Sensor
2 1825115C91 Cylinder Head, Right
3 %u2014 To Crankcase
4 9J323 High Pressure Oil Pump Supply Hose (RH)
5 9A332 High Pressure Oil Pump Supply Hose (LH)
6 %u2014 Cylinder Head High Pressure Rail (Part of 1825115C91)
7 %u2014 Injector Return
8 1825115C91 Cylinder Head, Left
9 9E527 Fuel Injector
10 9F838 Injection Control Pressure (ICP) Sensor
11 1825250C91 Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR)
12 1825259C91 High Pressure Oil Pump
13 %u2014 From Engine
14 %u2014 Bleed Hole (Part of 1823534C2)
15 1823534C2 High Pressure Oil Pump Supply Reservoir

Injector Driver Module
The injector driver module (IDM) is used in conjunction with the PCM to sequentially control power to the fuel injectors on the 7.3L DI turbo diesel engine. The PCM processor generates two digital control signals for the IDM: fuel delivery control signal (FDCS) and cylinder identification (CID). The FDCS signal is used by the IDM to control injection timing and injection duration. The CID provides synchronization to the engine's first and fifth injector (firing order). The IDM verifies that FDCS and CID occur at valid timing intervals. The IDM outputs an electronic feedback (EF) signal, to the PCM, which is a delayed mimic of the FDCS for verification. Selected diagnostic information is also passed to the PCM via the EF signal in run mode.

The IDM is a high-energy power supply which acts as an energy distributor to provide regulated injector energy and control to the unit fuel injectors, based on FDCS and CID commands from the PCM. All IDM components are solid state; there are no user serviceable parts or adjustments. The IDM internal power supply uses a DC-to-DC converter to boost the supply voltage (VBATT) up to 115V DC. This supply is required to overcome the initial impedance of the injectors, ensuring rapid turn on. There are two high side drivers, one for each bank (left and right cylinder bank), and eight low side drivers, one for each injector. One high and one low side must be turned on to energize an injector. Once synchronized with the PCM, the IDM will select the proper low side driver (enable) and control the corresponding high side driver to regulate the current to an injector.

Continuous and on-demand system diagnostic information is provided between the PCM processor and the IDM via the EF signal. During normal operation, the IDM can indicate to the PCM that an injector low side short to ground has been detected, or that the IDM has lost synchronization.

The IDM constantly performs self-diagnostics and also monitors the injector circuits for electrical faults. Any fault codes set are transmitted via the EF signal to the PCM during Key On/Engine Off On-Demand Self Test. If the PCM is unable to obtain diagnostic information from the IDM, DTC 1668 is set.

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'97 F150 4.6L Component View, front of engine

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SwingawayLatch.jpg | Hits: 5151 | Size: 27.14 KB | Posted on: 1/30/07 | Link to this image


Just a quick sketch for a custom bumper tire rack latch.

FRONT is to the RIGHT. The vertical distance between the pivot & hook makes the hook grab the rack tightly, and the horizontal distance make it easy-to-operate.

The bottom corner of the latch (near the base of the spring) needs to be trimmed away from the rack slightly, below the centerline of the pivot.

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KillSwitch.jpg | Hits: 8177 | Size: 38.13 KB | Posted on: 1/13/06 | Link to this image


Various wiring options for a battery kill switch like this one.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (PCM adaptions, radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. NEVER turn the switch off while the engine is running.

The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running after it's switched OFF, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective.

"ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective. This configuration doesn't require a heavy battery switch since the starter relay only needs a couple of amps to work. This also requires the switch ON for starting, and then it can be switched OFF while the engine is running.

Another option for the Anti-Theft setup is to transfer the Alt & FB feed to the same side of the kill switch as the fuse link, which is effectively the same as the Main Kill, but without the requirement for such a high-capacity switch.

Wal-Mart & some parts stores now sell a Chinese knock-off of the Hella switch linked above for about $10. It's not worth it.

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint:


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24VWinch.jpg | Hits: 5522 | Size: 41.3 KB | Posted on: 1/24/06 | Link to this image


24V Winch Circuits
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

In the top arrangement, the Aux Battery will require an external charger, or a TOTALLY isolated additional alternator, or a -12VDC alternator.

In the bottom arrangement, the normal alternator (which is represented in the standard loads box) will charge the Aux Battery when the switches are set for charging, but NOT when set for winching.

It's possible to build the lower circuit to work with SPST continuous-duty (winch-style) relays, and to be changed instantly with a single switch. Or SPST battery-disconnect switches can be used, but for safety, they should be organized geometrically so that that the wrong pair can't be activated to cause a dead short across either battery.

For the discussion that led to this diagram, see this:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49623

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WinchCircuit.jpg | Hits: 4719 | Size: 32.96 KB | Posted on: 5/10/08 | Link to this image


Reversible Winch Motor

This circuit uses common SPST continuous-duty relays, and will work on any DC motor. SPDT relays can replace each pair of SPSTs. Each relay must be rated for MORE current than the motor's peak draw when stalled.

This shows the remote hot-switching the relays, but it could also be wired to ground-switch them.

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LatchingRelay.jpg | Hits: 4645 | Size: 19.17 KB | Posted on: 1/22/06 | Link to this image


Latching Relay
ERROR: 85 & 86 should be reversed

A simple circuit that can be used for a variety of applications. If the diode is replaced with a wire, the circuit will still work, but if the relay contacts ever fail, the ON switch will carry all the current to the load while it's pressed.

The 2 switches can be replaced with a DPDT momentary up-down switch, or existing switches in other circuits could be used.

For example, the ON switch might be the START circuit of the ignition switch; the OFF switch might be the RHR power window switch; and the load might be an auxilliary horn. If the vehicle is ever started without the RHR window switch in the correct position, the auxilliary horn would latch on as a theft alarm until the RHR window switch is pressed. Since window power is disabled during starting, the circuit wouldn't backfeed if the switch is held during cranking.

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FanCircuitA.JPG | Hits: 9250 | Size: 25.72 KB | Posted on: 6/6/08 | Link to this image


Single-Speed Cooling Fan Circuit only allows the fans to run when the engine is running (because it's powered by the fuel pump relay), but gives the driver control (OFF) for water crossings or (ON) in case the temperature switch fails.

For a stock temperature switch, look at the '87-89 F150 4.9L injector blower switch:



For dual 15A fan motors, upgrade the 20A fuse & its wiring to 40A.

For carb, splice the 3A fuse into any RUN circuit, like the ignition module or voltage regulator.

For more-complex 2-speed circuits, see the NEXT several diagrams...

See also:

. .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint:


____________________________________________________________________
It's a myth that people convince themselves of because they don't understand simple physics, and because they need to feel good about spending all that time & money re-engineering their vehicles. But it is a BASIC concept that every time energy is converted from one form to another, some of it is lost (usually as heat). It's why perpetual motion machines are impossible. The typical loss rate is around 50% (yes, half). So converting from gasoline's chemical bond energy into air pressure inside the cylinders loses a bunch of heat. Converting from air pressure to linear motion of the piston loses a little. Linear piston to rotating crankshaft loses a little. Crankshaft to belt loses a little. Here's where the choice happens... Normally, belt energy to fan (through the clutch) loses very little energy. But converting from the belt to the alternator rotor, from mechanical to magnetic, from magnetic to electric, pushing that electricity through wires/connectors/switches/relays/etc. (each with resistance), from electric back to magnetic inside the motor, and then from magnetic back to mechanical to drive the fan blade wastes a LOT more to move the exact same amount of air.

A truck pulling a trailer that weighs more than the truck has to burn more gas than a truck alone. An engine spinning a disconnected or non-functional alternator doesn't work as hard as one spinning a loaded alternator. People commonly don't understand the load of generating electricity on a car, even though it's essentially the same as generating electricity with a dam or nuclear reactor. Energy is NOT FREE. If the alternator/generator could just spin regardless of the electrical load, you wouldn't need a dam dumping water or an engine burning gas to keep it spinning - you could just spin it once, and then get 1.21 GW of electricity out of it forever. Try wrapping a pull-rope around an alternator in a bench vise, and seeing how long it'll spin. Then connect a weak (discharged) 12V battery from the output stud to the case, and try again.

So how much load is an e-fan? Well, it depends on the motor & blades, and the speed of the air passing through when the fan motor is off. If the air is already flowing at 60mph, then the electric fan motor doesn't have to draw much electricity to spin the blades at ~30mph. BUT THE CLUTCH FAN doesn't take any torque off the belt, either, under those conditions. However - if you measure current draw to start the fan motor when the air is stopped (truck not moving), it can peak higher than 100A, and reach a steady-state of 30~65A (depending on motor & blade design). You might not think that's much for a 95A or 130A alternator, but the only thing on the truck that draws more is the starter (~140A for normal cranking) or winch (~400A for a 12K winch at full stall). And the rest of the truck is already using ~60~90A for fuel pump, ignition system, EEC, lights, A/C, radio...

Then why do modern vehicles use efans if they're so wasteful? Because they're capable of VERY-precise control by the PCM, if it's equipped with MANY sensors, and a variable-speed (PWM) fan controller, and has been carefully programmed to operate the fan ONLY at the necessary speed/load. Under those VERY-PRECISE conditions, the overall performance of the efan can become slightly more-efficient (in the LONG run) than a self-regulated thermal fan clutch. BUT JUST BARELY. When you have 1 or 2 thermal switches and a dash switch for an efan, it's NOWHERE NEAR that efficient, and wastes fuel on top of the extreme cost of swapping from the (inexpensive reliable) thermal clutch to the (expensive fragile critical) efan. And vehicles designed with efans can be programmed with FailSafe Cooling strategy (FSC) so that the engine isn't damaged when the efan fails (and they DO - I've driven a few in FSC mode a few times). What you cook up in the back yard is NOT failsafe. If the fan gives out for any reason, you're probably gonna destroy the engine before you realize there's a problem. Thermal clutches tend to give more warning when they're going out.

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2-Speed Cooling Fan Circuit only allows the fans to run when the engine is running (because it's powered by the fuel pump relay), but gives the driver control (OFF) for water crossings or (ON) in case the temperature switches fail.

In this configuration, if the HI relay contacts fail, the fan will still run at a lower speed. This circuit is NOT suited to a 2-speed motor because both HI & LO are powered.

For a single-speed system: delete the hi relay, 210 switch, & resistor. For a single-fan system: derate the main 40A fuse to 20A.

. .

For carb, splice the 3A fuse into any RUN circuit, like the ignition module or voltage regulator.

See also:

. .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint:


____________________________________________________________________
It's a myth that people convince themselves of because they don't understand simple physics, and because they need to feel good about spending all that time & money re-engineering their vehicles. But it is a BASIC concept that every time energy is converted from one form to another, some of it is lost (usually as heat). It's why perpetual motion machines are impossible. The typical loss rate is around 50% (yes, half). So converting from gasoline's chemical bond energy into air pressure inside the cylinders loses a bunch of heat. Converting from air pressure to linear motion of the piston loses a little. Linear piston to rotating crankshaft loses a little. Crankshaft to belt loses a little. Here's where the choice happens... Normally, belt energy to fan (through the clutch) loses very little energy. But converting from the belt to the alternator rotor, from mechanical to magnetic, from magnetic to electric, pushing that electricity through wires/connectors/switches/relays/etc. (each with resistance), from electric back to magnetic inside the motor, and then from magnetic back to mechanical to drive the fan blade wastes a LOT more to move the exact same amount of air.

A truck pulling a trailer that weighs more than the truck has to burn more gas than a truck alone. An engine spinning a disconnected or non-functional alternator doesn't work as hard as one spinning a loaded alternator. People commonly don't understand the load of generating electricity on a car, even though it's essentially the same as generating electricity with a dam or nuclear reactor. Energy is NOT FREE. If the alternator/generator could just spin regardless of the electrical load, you wouldn't need a dam dumping water or an engine burning gas to keep it spinning - you could just spin it once, and then get 1.21 GW of electricity out of it forever. Try wrapping a pull-rope around an alternator in a bench vise, and seeing how long it'll spin. Then connect a weak (discharged) 12V battery from the output stud to the case, and try again.

So how much load is an e-fan? Well, it depends on the motor & blades, and the speed of the air passing through when the fan motor is off. If the air is already flowing at 60mph, then the electric fan motor doesn't have to draw much electricity to spin the blades at ~30mph. BUT THE CLUTCH FAN doesn't take any torque off the belt, either, under those conditions. However - if you measure current draw to start the fan motor when the air is stopped (truck not moving), it can peak higher than 100A, and reach a steady-state of 30~65A (depending on motor & blade design). You might not think that's much for a 95A or 130A alternator, but the only thing on the truck that draws more is the starter (~140A for normal cranking) or winch (~400A for a 12K winch at full stall). And the rest of the truck is already using ~60~90A for fuel pump, ignition system, EEC, lights, A/C, radio...

Then why do modern vehicles use efans if they're so wasteful? Because they're capable of VERY-precise control by the PCM, if it's equipped with MANY sensors, and a variable-speed (PWM) fan controller, and has been carefully programmed to operate the fan ONLY at the necessary speed/load. Under those VERY-PRECISE conditions, the overall performance of the efan can become slightly more-efficient (in the LONG run) than a self-regulated thermal fan clutch. BUT JUST BARELY. When you have 1 or 2 thermal switches and a dash switch for an efan, it's NOWHERE NEAR that efficient, and wastes fuel on top of the extreme cost of swapping from the (inexpensive reliable) thermal clutch to the (expensive fragile critical) efan. And vehicles designed with efans can be programmed with FailSafe Cooling strategy (FSC) so that the engine isn't damaged when the efan fails (and they DO - I've driven a few in FSC mode a few times). What you cook up in the back yard is NOT failsafe. If the fan gives out for any reason, you're probably gonna destroy the engine before you realize there's a problem. Thermal clutches tend to give more warning when they're going out.

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2-Speed Cooling Fan Motor Circuit only allows the fan to run when the engine is running (because it's powered by the fuel pump relay), but gives the driver control (OFF) for water crossings or (ON) in case the temperature switches fail. In this configuration, speed is always determined by the hi-temp switch & speed relay.

For other configurations, see:
. .

For carb, splice the 3A fuse into any RUN circuit, like the ignition module or voltage regulator.

See also:

. . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint:


____________________________________________________________________
It's a myth that people convince themselves of because they don't understand simple physics, and because they need to feel good about spending all that time & money re-engineering their vehicles. But it is a BASIC concept that every time energy is converted from one form to another, some of it is lost (usually as heat). It's why perpetual motion machines are impossible. The typical loss rate is around 50% (yes, half). So converting from gasoline's chemical bond energy into air pressure inside the cylinders loses a bunch of heat. Converting from air pressure to linear motion of the piston loses a little. Linear piston to rotating crankshaft loses a little. Crankshaft to belt loses a little. Here's where the choice happens... Normally, belt energy to fan (through the clutch) loses very little energy. But converting from the belt to the alternator rotor, from mechanical to magnetic, from magnetic to electric, pushing that electricity through wires/connectors/switches/relays/etc. (each with resistance), from electric back to magnetic inside the motor, and then from magnetic back to mechanical to drive the fan blade wastes a LOT more to move the exact same amount of air.

A truck pulling a trailer that weighs more than the truck has to burn more gas than a truck alone. An engine spinning a disconnected or non-functional alternator doesn't work as hard as one spinning a loaded alternator. People commonly don't understand the load of generating electricity on a car, even though it's essentially the same as generating electricity with a dam or nuclear reactor. Energy is NOT FREE. If the alternator/generator could just spin regardless of the electrical load, you wouldn't need a dam dumping water or an engine burning gas to keep it spinning - you could just spin it once, and then get 1.21 GW of electricity out of it forever. Try wrapping a pull-rope around an alternator in a bench vise, and seeing how long it'll spin. Then connect a weak (discharged) 12V battery from the output stud to the case, and try again.

So how much load is an e-fan? Well, it depends on the motor & blades, and the speed of the air passing through when the fan motor is off. If the air is already flowing at 60mph, then the electric fan motor doesn't have to draw much electricity to spin the blades at ~30mph. BUT THE CLUTCH FAN doesn't take any torque off the belt, either, under those conditions. However - if you measure current draw to start the fan motor when the air is stopped (truck not moving), it can peak higher than 100A, and reach a steady-state of 30~65A (depending on motor & blade design). You might not think that's much for a 95A or 130A alternator, but the only thing on the truck that draws more is the starter (~140A for normal cranking) or winch (~400A for a 12K winch at full stall). And the rest of the truck is already using ~60~90A for fuel pump, ignition system, EEC, lights, A/C, radio...

Then why do modern vehicles use efans if they're so wasteful? Because they're capable of VERY-precise control by the PCM, if it's equipped with MANY sensors, and a variable-speed (PWM) fan controller, and has been carefully programmed to operate the fan ONLY at the necessary speed/load. Under those VERY-PRECISE conditions, the overall performance of the efan can become slightly more-efficient (in the LONG run) than a self-regulated thermal fan clutch. BUT JUST BARELY. When you have 1 or 2 thermal switches and a dash switch for an efan, it's NOWHERE NEAR that efficient, and wastes fuel on top of the extreme cost of swapping from the (inexpensive reliable) thermal clutch to the (expensive fragile critical) efan. And vehicles designed with efans can be programmed with FailSafe Cooling strategy (FSC) so that the engine isn't damaged when the efan fails (and they DO - I've driven a few in FSC mode a few times). What you cook up in the back yard is NOT failsafe. If the fan gives out for any reason, you're probably gonna destroy the engine before you realize there's a problem. Thermal clutches tend to give more warning when they're going out.

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2-Speed Cooling Fan Motor Circuit (with illuminated switch) only allows the fan to run when the engine is running (because it's powered by the fuel pump relay), but gives the driver control (OFF) for water crossings or (ON) in case the temperature switches fail. In this configuration, speed is always determined by the hi-temp switch & speed relay.

The LED could be inside the switch if polarity permits, or an incandescent could be used ONLY IF the bulb's current draw is less than 1/10 of the fan relay's coil. With this configuration, it will only light if the fan relay is OFF (whether the dash switch is OFF or AUTO). It will only go out if the dash switch is in ON, or AUTO while the low-temperature switch is closed (above 170°F).

For other configurations, see:
. .

For carb, splice the 3A fuse into any RUN circuit, like the ignition module or voltage regulator.

See also:

. . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint:


____________________________________________________________________
It's a myth that people convince themselves of because they don't understand simple physics, and because they need to feel good about spending all that time & money re-engineering their vehicles. But it is a BASIC concept that every time energy is converted from one form to another, some of it is lost (usually as heat). It's why perpetual motion machines are impossible. The typical loss rate is around 50% (yes, half). So converting from gasoline's chemical bond energy into air pressure inside the cylinders loses a bunch of heat. Converting from air pressure to linear motion of the piston loses a little. Linear piston to rotating crankshaft loses a little. Crankshaft to belt loses a little. Here's where the choice happens... Normally, belt energy to fan (through the clutch) loses very little energy. But converting from the belt to the alternator rotor, from mechanical to magnetic, from magnetic to electric, pushing that electricity through wires/connectors/switches/relays/etc. (each with resistance), from electric back to magnetic inside the motor, and then from magnetic back to mechanical to drive the fan blade wastes a LOT more to move the exact same amount of air.

A truck pulling a trailer that weighs more than the truck has to burn more gas than a truck alone. An engine spinning a disconnected or non-functional alternator doesn't work as hard as one spinning a loaded alternator. People commonly don't understand the load of generating electricity on a car, even though it's essentially the same as generating electricity with a dam or nuclear reactor. Energy is NOT FREE. If the alternator/generator could just spin regardless of the electrical load, you wouldn't need a dam dumping water or an engine burning gas to keep it spinning - you could just spin it once, and then get 1.21 GW of electricity out of it forever. Try wrapping a pull-rope around an alternator in a bench vise, and seeing how long it'll spin. Then connect a weak (discharged) 12V battery from the output stud to the case, and try again.

So how much load is an e-fan? Well, it depends on the motor & blades, and the speed of the air passing through when the fan motor is off. If the air is already flowing at 60mph, then the electric fan motor doesn't have to draw much electricity to spin the blades at ~30mph. BUT THE CLUTCH FAN doesn't take any torque off the belt, either, under those conditions. However - if you measure current draw to start the fan motor when the air is stopped (truck not moving), it can peak higher than 100A, and reach a steady-state of 30~65A (depending on motor & blade design). You might not think that's much for a 95A or 130A alternator, but the only thing on the truck that draws more is the starter (~140A for normal cranking) or winch (~400A for a 12K winch at full stall). And the rest of the truck is already using ~60~90A for fuel pump, ignition system, EEC, lights, A/C, radio...

Then why do modern vehicles use efans if they're so wasteful? Because they're capable of VERY-precise control by the PCM, if it's equipped with MANY sensors, and a variable-speed (PWM) fan controller, and has been carefully programmed to operate the fan ONLY at the necessary speed/load. Under those VERY-PRECISE conditions, the overall performance of the efan can become slightly more-efficient (in the LONG run) than a self-regulated thermal fan clutch. BUT JUST BARELY. When you have 1 or 2 thermal switches and a dash switch for an efan, it's NOWHERE NEAR that efficient, and wastes fuel on top of the extreme cost of swapping from the (inexpensive reliable) thermal clutch to the (expensive fragile critical) efan. And vehicles designed with efans can be programmed with FailSafe Cooling strategy (FSC) so that the engine isn't damaged when the efan fails (and they DO - I've driven a few in FSC mode a few times). What you cook up in the back yard is NOT failsafe. If the fan gives out for any reason, you're probably gonna destroy the engine before you realize there's a problem. Thermal clutches tend to give more warning when they're going out.

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A more-complex variation of the 2-speed e-fan circuit; this one includes a relay that allows high speed when the A/C is running. Note that the OFF position on the dash switch does not affect the high-speed relay, so it's idiot-proof. Even if the dash switch is left OFF, the fans can still come on if the engine goes above the high-temperature switch threshhold, or if A/C is on. The fans cannot be truely disabled if the engine is close to overheating, even with the key OFF. To totally kill the fans, the 40A fuse can be pulled.



For other configurations, see:
. .

For carb, splice the 1A fuse into any RUN circuit, like the ignition module or voltage regulator.

See also:

. . . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint:


____________________________________________________________________
It's a myth that people convince themselves of because they don't understand simple physics, and because they need to feel good about spending all that time & money re-engineering their vehicles. But it is a BASIC concept that every time energy is converted from one form to another, some of it is lost (usually as heat). It's why perpetual motion machines are impossible. The typical loss rate is around 50% (yes, half). So converting from gasoline's chemical bond energy into air pressure inside the cylinders loses a bunch of heat. Converting from air pressure to linear motion of the piston loses a little. Linear piston to rotating crankshaft loses a little. Crankshaft to belt loses a little. Here's where the choice happens... Normally, belt energy to fan (through the clutch) loses very little energy. But converting from the belt to the alternator rotor, from mechanical to magnetic, from magnetic to electric, pushing that electricity through wires/connectors/switches/relays/etc. (each with resistance), from electric back to magnetic inside the motor, and then from magnetic back to mechanical to drive the fan blade wastes a LOT more to move the exact same amount of air.

A truck pulling a trailer that weighs more than the truck has to burn more gas than a truck alone. An engine spinning a disconnected or non-functional alternator doesn't work as hard as one spinning a loaded alternator. People commonly don't understand the load of generating electricity on a car, even though it's essentially the same as generating electricity with a dam or nuclear reactor. Energy is NOT FREE. If the alternator/generator could just spin regardless of the electrical load, you wouldn't need a dam dumping water or an engine burning gas to keep it spinning - you could just spin it once, and then get 1.21 GW of electricity out of it forever. Try wrapping a pull-rope around an alternator in a bench vise, and seeing how long it'll spin. Then connect a weak (discharged) 12V battery from the output stud to the case, and try again.

So how much load is an e-fan? Well, it depends on the motor & blades, and the speed of the air passing through when the fan motor is off. If the air is already flowing at 60mph, then the electric fan motor doesn't have to draw much electricity to spin the blades at ~30mph. BUT THE CLUTCH FAN doesn't take any torque off the belt, either, under those conditions. However - if you measure current draw to start the fan motor when the air is stopped (truck not moving), it can peak higher than 100A, and reach a steady-state of 30~65A (depending on motor & blade design). You might not think that's much for a 95A or 130A alternator, but the only thing on the truck that draws more is the starter (~140A for normal cranking) or winch (~400A for a 12K winch at full stall). And the rest of the truck is already using ~60~90A for fuel pump, ignition system, EEC, lights, A/C, radio...

Then why do modern vehicles use efans if they're so wasteful? Because they're capable of VERY-precise control by the PCM, if it's equipped with MANY sensors, and a variable-speed (PWM) fan controller, and has been carefully programmed to operate the fan ONLY at the necessary speed/load. Under those VERY-PRECISE conditions, the overall performance of the efan can become slightly more-efficient (in the LONG run) than a self-regulated thermal fan clutch. BUT JUST BARELY. When you have 1 or 2 thermal switches and a dash switch for an efan, it's NOWHERE NEAR that efficient, and wastes fuel on top of the extreme cost of swapping from the (inexpensive reliable) thermal clutch to the (expensive fragile critical) efan. And vehicles designed with efans can be programmed with FailSafe Cooling strategy (FSC) so that the engine isn't damaged when the efan fails (and they DO - I've driven a few in FSC mode a few times). What you cook up in the back yard is NOT failsafe. If the fan gives out for any reason, you're probably gonna destroy the engine before you realize there's a problem. Thermal clutches tend to give more warning when they're going out.

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'80-86 Fog Lights

The relay (lower L corner) is a common Ford 3-pin horn relay used with early vacuum cruise systems, so it & its connector are easy to find new or in junkyards.

This particular switch is rare, but easy to substitute with any modern switch.


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Ranger Fog Lights; similar to other '75-91 Ford trucks.

'80-86 Bronco/F Fog Lights
D9ZZ-15K233-A Lens Cover
D9ZZ-13466-A Bulb
EOTZ-15237-B Socket & Wire
EOTZ-15A245-A Bezel
EOTZ-15200-A Fog Lamp Assembly
EOTZ-15L203-A Lens



Those above use a hot-switched relay, but the diagram below (which is ground-switched) works equally well:


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Rock Light circuit triggered by dome lights (doors) or by dash switch.

The fuse & relay must be sized to match or exceed the lights. A common 30A Bosch/ISO relay will handle up to 6 55W bulbs using a 30A fuse. A pair of 55W bulbs only requires a 10A fuse. The 3A fuse is only necessary if the new relay is on the other side of the firewall from the dash switch.

See also:

. .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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Range Rover Air Suspension System

Item Numbers:
7 - Inlet Solenoid (air to springs)
8 - Outlet Solenoids (air from springs)
9 - Spring Solenoids (air in/out)
12 - Solenoid-operated Diaphragm Valve
13 - Air-operated Diaphragm Valve

See this:


For wiring, see:


RANGE ROVER ELECTRONIC AIR SUSPENSION (EAS)

Description
The electronic air suspension is a versatile microprocessor controlled system that exploits the advantages of air suspension. It provides a variable spring rate, which achieves near constant ride frequency for all load conditions, giving:
> Improved ride quality.
> Continuity of ride quality, laden or unladen.
> Constant ride height.
> Improved headlamp leveling.

The function of the system is to provide five height modes, each of which is automatically maintained at the given height by the system logic with the minimum of driver involvement. Vehicle height is sensed by four rotary potentiometer type height sensors. Vehicle height information from each potentiometer signals the ECU to adjust each air spring by switching the solenoid valves to hold, add or release air. The system provides five height settings and automatic self-leveling as follows:
> Standard - standard ride height i.e. 790 mm /-7 mm, measured from centre of wheel arch eyebrow to floor.
> Low profile: 20 mm below standard.
> Access: 60 mm below standard.
> High profile: 40 mm above standard.
> Extended profile: 10 to 30 mm above high profile.

Self-Leveling
The system provides self-leveling under varying vehicle loads. The vehicle will self level to the lowest corner height level for 10 seconds after switching off engine, exiting vehicle and closing doors.

Standard
Vehicle ride height is tile same as with conventional suspension, but is maintained under all load conditions. This also provides improved headlamp leveling.

Low profile
This position gives improved handling and fuel consumption at high speed. When the vehicle speed exceeds 80 kph (50 mph) for more than 30 seconds, with INHIBIT switch off, the vehicle will enter the low profile position. The vehicle will return to standard height when vehicle speed drops below 56 kph (35 mph) for more than 30 seconds, unless vehicle stops, in which case it returns to standard when driven away. The LOWER lamp is illuminated in this condition.

Access
This position makes passenger boarding and luggage loading easier. With the vehicle stationary, park brake on (manual) or P selected (automatic), footbrake off, doors closed, and INHIBIT switch off, pressing the LOWER switch will select the ACCESS position. It is possible to select access for 15 seconds after switching engine off. The LOWER lamp flashes until access position is reached, when it remain constantly illuminated.

NOTE: Opening a door will freeze vehicle position.

From access, the vehicle will return to standard ride height if the RAISE switch is pressed, OR inhibit switched on, OR park brake released, OR the vehicle driven off.

High profile
This position is used to improve approach and departure angles and when wading. Pressing the RAISE switch will select this position provided the road speed is below 56 kph (35 mph) with INHIBIT off. The vehicle will return to standard position when road speed exceeds 56 kph (35 mph) or LOWER switch is pressed. The RAISE lamp is illuminated in this condition.

NOTE: When raising ride height, rear of vehicle will raise by 70% of movement first followed by 70% of front. Rear will raise remaining 30% before front. Lowering will be achieved by lowering front of vehicle first. This will ensure that, with headlamps illuminated, there is no inconvenience from headlamp dazzle to other road users. BUT, lowering to access position will be achieved by the fastest possible means, by opening all air valves at the same time.

Extended profile
This position is achieved when vehicle is off road in standard or high profile and the chassis is grounded leaving wheels unsupported. Initial ECU reaction is to deflate (lower) affected springs. After a timed period ECU detects no height change, therefore it reinflates springs in an attempt to regain traction. The RAISE lamp will flash in this mode. After ten minutes system will return to high profile, unless LOWER switch is pressed.

Component Description

Electrical control unit - ECU
The ECU is located underneath the right hand front seat, on top of the fuel ECU. It maintains the requested vehicle ride height by adjusting the volume of air in each air spring. It is connected to the cable assembly by a 35-way connector. To ensure safe operation the ECU has extensive on board diagnostic and safety features. The ECU is non-serviceable. In case of failure it must be replaced.

Power supply for the system consists of the following components:
1. Delayed power turn off relay. This remains powered up for 10 seconds after exiting vehicle to allow self-leveling.
2. Compressor relay, 4 pins.
3. Warning light relay, 5 pins.
4. 30 amp %u2018maxi fuse%u2019 for compressor power.
5. 15 amp fuse for ECU pin 1.

The disable switch is mounted under the right hand front seat. The switch has no markings; in the DISABLE position the bottom of the switch is pushed in. It is used to disable system when vehicle is being delivered, or when working on the system after depressurizing. The switch disables the system at speeds below 56 kph (35 mph).

Height sensors
Four potentiometer type height sensors signal vehicle height information to the ECU. The potentiometers are mounted on the chassis and activated by links to the front radius arms and rear trailing links. In case of height sensor failure, the assembly must be replaced.

Control Switches
Mounted on the lower fascia, three control switches are arranged thus:
1 - Raise - momentary touch switch
2 - Inhibit - self-latching switch, when switched on the vehicle will remain at standard ride height. This position is used when the automatic height adjustment is not required, i.e. when towing. Self leveling will continue to function.
3 - Lower - momentary touch switch

The switches incorporate a warning lamp. When engine is started all three warning lamps will illuminate for three seconds as part of bulb check. The switches are illuminated when the vehicle lights are on, controlled by the dimmer switch. The following components are contained in the AIR SUPPLY UNIT mounted on the right hand chassis side: AIR COMPRESSOR, AIR DRYER, and VALVE BLOCK.

Air compressor
The air compressor provides system pressure. A thermal switch is incorporated which switches off the compressor relay earth at 130°C. The compressor has an air intake silencer mounted behind rear mud flap. The air intake filter is located adjacent to the fuel filler flap. The filter is renewed every 40,000 km/24,000 miles/24 months (30,000 miles USA).

Air dryer
The air dryer is connected into the air line between compressor and reservoir. It removes moisture from pressurized air entering the system. When air is exhausted from the system, it passes through the dryer in the opposite direction. The air dryer is regenerative in that air absorbs moisture in the dryer and expels it to atmosphere.

The air dryer unit is non-serviceable, designed to last the life of the vehicle. However if water is found in the system when reservoir drain plug is removed, the air dryer must be changed.

CAUTION: If the air dryer is removed from the vehicle, the ports must be plugged to prevent moisture ingress.

Valve block
The valve block controls the direction of air flow. Air flow to and from the air springs is controlled by six solenoid operated valves, one for each air spring, one inlet and one exhaust. A diaphragm valve operated by the solenoid outlet valve ensures that all exhausted air passes through the air dryer. In response to signals by the ECU, the valves allow high-pressure air to flow in or out of the air springs according to the need to increase or decrease pressure. The valve block is non-serviceable; in case of failure, it must be replaced.

Non-return valves
The valve block contains three non-return valves. NRVl retains compressor air pressure by preventing flow back to the compressor.
NRV2 prevents loss of pressure in the system if reservoir pressure drops. It also ensures correct - flow through the inlet valve.
NRV3 ensures correct flow through the exhaust valve.

Reservoir
The 10-liter reservoir is mounted on the left hand side of the chassis. One connection acts as inlet and outlet to the rest of the system. It stores compressed air between set pressure levels. The reservoir drain plug requires removing every 40,000 km/24,000 miles/24 months (30,000 miles USA) to check for moisture in the system. See: Repair, air
reservoir - drain.

Pressure switch
Mounted on the reservoir is a pressure switch which senses air pressure and signals the ECU to operate the compressor when required. The compressor will operate when pressure falls to between 7.2 and 8.0 bar. It will cut out at a rising pressure of between 9.5 and 10.5 bar.

Air springs components
I. Top plate
2. Rolling rubber diaphragm
3. Piston

The air springs are mounted in the same position as conventional coil springs. Front and back air springs are of similar construction, but are not interchangeable. The diaphragm is NOT repairable; if failure occurs, the complete unit must be replaced.

AIR PIPE COLOR CODES
The following pipes have a colored band to aid assembly:
Component - Color
Back left spring - Red
Back right spring - Blue
Front left spring - Yellow
Front right spring - Green
Reservoir - Brown
Exhaust - Violet

SYSTEM OPERATION
Air is drawn through the inlet filter (1) to the compressor (2), where it is compressed to 10.0 f 0.5 bar.

Compressor operation activates the diaphragm solenoid valve (12) to prevent air going straight to atmosphere.

Compressed air passes to the air dryer (3). Moisture is removed as air flows through the dryer desiccant. The desiccant in the dryer becomes wet.

Dried air passes to the valve block, through NRVI to the reservoir (4).

The three non-return valves (6) ensure correct air flow. They also prevent loss of spring pressure if total loss of reservoir pressure occurs.

A pressure switch (5) maintains system pressure between set limits by switching the compressor on and off via an ECU-controlled relay.

For air to be admitted to any spring or springs, inlet valve (7) and the relevant air spring solenoid valve or valves (9) must be energized.

For air to be exhausted from any spring, the exhaust valve ( 8 ) and the relevant air spring solenoid valve or valves must be energized.

The diaphragm solenoid valve ensures that air exhausted to atmosphere passes through the dryer. This action purges moisture from the desiccant and regenerates the air dryer.

Air is finally exhausted through the system-air-operated diaphragm valve (13) and to atmosphere through a silencer (14) at the chassis rear crossmember.

ECU INPUTS
The air suspension system is controlled by the ECU, which operates dependant on driver-selected inputs plus those listed below. In each mode the ECU maintains the requested ride height by adjusting the volume of air in one or more of the air springs.

Battery - 12 volt supply from ignition load relay.

Engine - from alternator phase tap, signals engine speed to ECU. Note that engine must be running for all height changes, except access and self-leveling when parked The compressor will be disabled if engine speed falls below 500 rev/min. This is to prevent the compressor drawing current from the battery when the alternator is not charging.

Height sensors four potentiometer height sensors provide suspension height signals to the ECU.

Road speed - the road speed transducer provides information enabling height changes to occur at correct road speed. Input speed signal to ECU is from a buffer unit located in the driver%u2019s side foot well.

Interior light delay unit - signals ECU if any door (not tailgate) is opened, which immediately suspends all height changes.

Park brake switch, manual vehicles the park brake must be ON to enter ACCESS

Gearbox inhibit switch, automatic vehicles - the transmission must be in park to enter access, park brake on or off.

Footbrake switch (brake light) - when footbrake is applied, and for one second after release, all height leveling is suspended below 1.6 kph (1 mph) and above 11 kph (5 mph). The purpose of this is to prevent the system reacting to suspension movement caused by weight transfer during braking and to prevent suspension windup during height change. Note that this inhibit function is removed after sixty seconds; e.g. if footbrake is held on for this time.

Delayed turn off relay remains energized after switching engine off and exiting vehicle, enables self-leveling to occur for 20 sec. If vehicle is stationary, the ECU will energize the relay every six hours to allow self-leveling to occur if necessary.

Reservoir pressure switch - when the ECU detects an output from the pressure switch indicating low pressure, the ECU will operate the compressor relay until the pressure switch indicates normal pressure.

Diagnostic plug ground - note that the two halves of the diagnostic plug are normally connected. When disconnected the system will not operate. It will remain frozen at its current height until reconnected.

Disable switch - In the disable position, the switch sends a door open signal to the ECU. This freezes the system in position at speeds below 56 kph (35 mph).

SYSTEM FUNCTION
The following table indicates conditions required for various air suspension modes.
NOTE: That the engine must be running unless indicated, and that ACCESS may be selected for 15 seconds after switching engine off.

Function - Condition - Warning lamp on
1. Automatic functions - Inhibit switch OFF.
High profile to standard - Over 56 kph (35 mph) - No
Standard to low profile - Over 80 kph (50 mph) for 30 sec - Lower
Low profile to Standard - Below 56 kph (35 mph) for 30 sec (but above 1.6 kph (1 mph)) - No
Access to standard - Park brake off or drive away - No

2. Driver select functions - Inhibit switch OFF.
Standard to high profile - Raise switch below 56 kph (35 mph) - Raise
High profile to standard - Lower switch below 56 kph (35 mph) - No
Standard to access - Lower switch )Stationary - Lower
)park brake on
Low profile to access - Lower switch )- manual/ - Lower
(where vehicle has not returned to standard )transmission P
)- automatic
High to Access - Press lower switch twice )doors shut - No
Access to standard - Raise switch - Lower
Access to high - Press raise switch twice - Raise

3. Inhibit switch ON
High profile to standard - Below 56 kph (35 mph) - Inhibit
Low profile to standard - - Inhibit
Access to standard - Stationary/park brake on - Inhibit

4. Self-leveling
Vehicle leveling for 20 sec, and every 6 hrs - Stationary/engine off/exit vehicle - No

DIAGNOSTICS AND FAULT RECOVERY
The ECU incorporates Fault Recovery Strategies to minimize the effect of a system failure. A serial data link is provided to allow diagnostic information to be retrieved using the Lucas hand held tester. This is also used to set height sensor datum when required.
Note that the serial link connector is colored black for identification purposes. Any faults stored in the ECU memory (from the previous or current running period) will cause the ECU to flash the RAISE and LOWER lamps for 30 sec. followed by continuous illumination.
If the ECU registers a system fault, it will store the fault in the memory. The fault recovery program will operate the system depending on the nature of the fault as follows:
Speed sensor fault - the ECU will place the system in standard height and activate inhibit.
Height sensor fault the ECU will place the system in standard height and activate inhibit. Note that if more than one height sensor fails, the ECU will deflate the air springs to the bump stops.

WARNING: If any two failures occur, the system deflates and lowers vehicle to its bump stops. It is possible to drive the vehicle provided that great caution is exercised. The vehicle ride will be extremely uncomfortable and only low speeds will be possible. It is essential that the vehicle fault be rectified as soon as possible.

Pressure switch fault - the ECU will register pressure switch failure if it detects that the compressor has worked for a programmed time with normal air spring operation possible. The ECU will periodically operate the compressor as air is required. The vehicle will be inhibited to standard.

Compressor fault - the ECU will register compressor failure if it detects that the compressor has worked for a programmed time with normal air spring operation not possible. The ECU will attempt to place the system in standard ride height, or a safe lowered position (which could be system deflated). The system will be inhibited from further ride height changes.

Air leaks - during normal operation, the ECU correlates the operating time of the compressor with air usage. If compressor use is greater than programmed, the ECU will register an air lank and attempt to place the system in standard ride height, or a safe lowered position (which could be system deflated). The system will be inhibited from further ride height changes.

Valve block fault - the control of each air spring is monitored to determine that every valve is working correctly.
1. If the ECU detects an air valve stuck open, it will attempt to adjust the vehicle to standard height or a safe lowered position (which could be system deflated). The system will be inhibited from further ride height changes.
2. If an air valve is stuck closed above standard height, the ECU will deflate the other three air springs.
3. If an air valve is stuck closed at or below standard height, the ECU will attempt to adjust the other springs to the same height and activate inhibit.

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
This section gives repair procedures for air suspension components. It is essential to note that repairs to other suspension and transmission components are affected by air suspension. To remove the following components, depressurize the system: front axle, panhard rod, radius arms, rear top and bottom links, and rear axle.

WARNING: The air spring must be restricted by suspension loading, with shock absorbers fitted before inflation. Unrestricted movement of a pressurized air spring will result in failure of the assembly, causing component and possible personal injury.

DEPRESSURIZE SYSTEM
Service repair no - 60.5038

Service tool: RTC 6834 - Lucas hand held tester
WARNING: Air suspension is pressurized up to 10 bar. Dirt or grease must not enter the system. Wear hand, ear and eye safety standard protection when servicing system.
1. Depressurizing system will lower body on to bump stops.
2. Connect hand held tester and follow manufacturer%u2019s instructions to depressurize complete system.
3. Ensure system is completely depressurized. Check that all air springs are deflated and vehicle has dropped evenly to the bump stops. If a spring or springs remains inflated possibly due to a stuck solenoid valve, it will be necessary to disconnect the pressurized pipe at air spring.
WARNING: Wear hand, ear and eye safety standard protection. For extra protection wrap a clean cloth around pipe to be disconnected. Note that vehicle will lower to bump stops when pipe is disconnected.
4. Disconnect air pipe see disconnect/connect air pipe.
5. Disable system using switch under right hand front seat.
Repressurize
6. Switch disable switch OFF.
7. Run engine to repressurize system.

AIR RESERVOIR - DRAIN
Service repair no - 50.50.24
The reservoir is drained every 30,000 Km (24,000 miles) - USA 30,000 miles.
1. Depressurize system.
2. Clean area around reservoir drain plug.
3. Partially open drain plug, allow residual air to escape.
4. Remove drain plug, NO water should be present. If water is present, air dryer unit must be changed.
5. Fit drain plug, checking sealing washer. Tighten to 70 Nm.
6. Repressurize system.

LEAK TEST PROCEDURE
Service repair no - 60.50.35
If an air leak is suspected the USE of a proprietary leak detection spray is recommended. This procedure should also be used where pneumatic components have been disturbed. The spray used must have a corrosion inhibitor, and must not cause damage to paintwork, plastics, metals, and plastic pipes.
Recommended leak detector spray is GOTEC LDS. This is available under part number STC 1090.
1. Ensure system is fully pressurized.
2. Clean around area of suspected leak.
3. Using manufacturer%u2019s instructions, spray around all component joints and air springs, working systematically until source of leak is found.
4. If a component e.g.: air spring, air dryer is leaking, rectify by fitting a new component.
5. If an air pipe connection is leaking cut 5 mm off end of pipe. Fit new collet.
6. Reinflate system; carry out leak test.

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Electronic Air Suspension for Range Rover Classic

For plumbing, see:


RANGE ROVER ELECTRONIC AIR SUSPENSION (EAS)

Description
The electronic air suspension is a versatile microprocessor controlled system that exploits the advantages of air suspension. It provides a variable spring rate, which achieves near constant ride frequency for all load conditions, giving:
> Improved ride quality.
> Continuity of ride quality, laden or unladen.
> Constant ride height.
> Improved headlamp leveling.

The function of the system is to provide five height modes, each of which is automatically maintained at the given height by the system logic with the minimum of driver involvement. Vehicle height is sensed by four rotary potentiometer type height sensors. Vehicle height information from each potentiometer signals the ECU to adjust each air spring by switching the solenoid valves to hold, add or release air. The system provides five height settings and automatic self-leveling as follows:
> Standard - standard ride height i.e. 790 mm /-7 mm, measured from centre of wheel arch eyebrow to floor.
> Low profile: 20 mm below standard.
> Access: 60 mm below standard.
> High profile: 40 mm above standard.
> Extended profile: 10 to 30 mm above high profile.

Self-Leveling
The system provides self-leveling under varying vehicle loads. The vehicle will self level to the lowest corner height level for 10 seconds after switching off engine, exiting vehicle and closing doors.

Standard
Vehicle ride height is tile same as with conventional suspension, but is maintained under all load conditions. This also provides improved headlamp leveling.

Low profile
This position gives improved handling and fuel consumption at high speed. When the vehicle speed exceeds 80 kph (50 mph) for more than 30 seconds, with INHIBIT switch off, the vehicle will enter the low profile position. The vehicle will return to standard height when vehicle speed drops below 56 kph (35 mph) for more than 30 seconds, unless vehicle stops, in which case it returns to standard when driven away. The LOWER lamp is illuminated in this condition.

Access
This position makes passenger boarding and luggage loading easier. With the vehicle stationary, park brake on (manual) or P selected (automatic), footbrake off, doors closed, and INHIBIT switch off, pressing the LOWER switch will select the ACCESS position. It is possible to select access for 15 seconds after switching engine off. The LOWER lamp flashes until access position is reached, when it remain constantly illuminated.

NOTE: Opening a door will freeze vehicle position.

From access, the vehicle will return to standard ride height if the RAISE switch is pressed, OR inhibit switched on, OR park brake released, OR the vehicle driven off.

High profile
This position is used to improve approach and departure angles and when wading. Pressing the RAISE switch will select this position provided the road speed is below 56 kph (35 mph) with INHIBIT off. The vehicle will return to standard position when road speed exceeds 56 kph (35 mph) or LOWER switch is pressed. The RAISE lamp is illuminated in this condition.

NOTE: When raising ride height, rear of vehicle will raise by 70% of movement first followed by 70% of front. Rear will raise remaining 30% before front. Lowering will be achieved by lowering front of vehicle first. This will ensure that, with headlamps illuminated, there is no inconvenience from headlamp dazzle to other road users. BUT, lowering to access position will be achieved by the fastest possible means, by opening all air valves at the same time.

Extended profile
This position is achieved when vehicle is off road in standard or high profile and the chassis is grounded leaving wheels unsupported. Initial ECU reaction is to deflate (lower) affected springs. After a timed period ECU detects no height change, therefore it reinflates springs in an attempt to regain traction. The RAISE lamp will flash in this mode. After ten minutes system will return to high profile, unless LOWER switch is pressed.

Component Description

Electrical control unit - ECU
The ECU is located underneath the right hand front seat, on top of the fuel ECU. It maintains the requested vehicle ride height by adjusting the volume of air in each air spring. It is connected to the cable assembly by a 35-way connector. To ensure safe operation the ECU has extensive on board diagnostic and safety features. The ECU is non-serviceable. In case of failure it must be replaced.

Power supply for the system consists of the following components:
1. Delayed power turn off relay. This remains powered up for 10 seconds after exiting vehicle to allow self-leveling.
2. Compressor relay, 4 pins.
3. Warning light relay, 5 pins.
4. 30 amp 'maxi fuse' for compressor power.
5. 15 amp fuse for ECU pin 1.

The disable switch is mounted under the right hand front seat. The switch has no markings; in the DISABLE position the bottom of the switch is pushed in. It is used to disable system when vehicle is being delivered, or when working on the system after depressurizing. The switch disables the system at speeds below 56 kph (35 mph).

Height sensors
Four potentiometer type height sensors signal vehicle height information to the ECU. The potentiometers are mounted on the chassis and activated by links to the front radius arms and rear trailing links. In case of height sensor failure, the assembly must be replaced.

Control Switches
Mounted on the lower fascia, three control switches are arranged thus:
1 - Raise - momentary touch switch
2 - Inhibit - self-latching switch, when switched on the vehicle will remain at standard ride height. This position is used when the automatic height adjustment is not required, i.e. when towing. Self leveling will continue to function.
3 - Lower - momentary touch switch

The switches incorporate a warning lamp. When engine is started all three warning lamps will illuminate for three seconds as part of bulb check. The switches are illuminated when the vehicle lights are on, controlled by the dimmer switch. The following components are contained in the AIR SUPPLY UNIT mounted on the right hand chassis side: AIR COMPRESSOR, AIR DRYER, and VALVE BLOCK.

Air compressor
The air compressor provides system pressure. A thermal switch is incorporated which switches off the compressor relay earth at 130°C. The compressor has an air intake silencer mounted behind rear mud flap. The air intake filter is located adjacent to the fuel filler flap. The filter is renewed every 40,000 km/24,000 miles/24 months (30,000 miles USA).

Air dryer
The air dryer is connected into the air line between compressor and reservoir. It removes moisture from pressurized air entering the system. When air is exhausted from the system, it passes through the dryer in the opposite direction. The air dryer is regenerative in that air absorbs moisture in the dryer and expels it to atmosphere.

The air dryer unit is non-serviceable, designed to last the life of the vehicle. However if water is found in the system when reservoir drain plug is removed, the air dryer must be changed.

CAUTION: If the air dryer is removed from the vehicle, the ports must be plugged to prevent moisture ingress.

Valve block
The valve block controls the direction of air flow. Air flow to and from the air springs is controlled by six solenoid operated valves, one for each air spring, one inlet and one exhaust. A diaphragm valve operated by the solenoid outlet valve ensures that all exhausted air passes through the air dryer. In response to signals by the ECU, the valves allow high-pressure air to flow in or out of the air springs according to the need to increase or decrease pressure. The valve block is non-serviceable; in case of failure, it must be replaced.

Non-return valves
The valve block contains three non-return valves. NRVl retains compressor air pressure by preventing flow back to the compressor.
NRV2 prevents loss of pressure in the system if reservoir pressure drops. It also ensures correct - flow through the inlet valve.
NRV3 ensures correct flow through the exhaust valve.

Reservoir
The 10-liter reservoir is mounted on the left hand side of the chassis. One connection acts as inlet and outlet to the rest of the system. It stores compressed air between set pressure levels. The reservoir drain plug requires removing every 40,000 km/24,000 miles/24 months (30,000 miles USA) to check for moisture in the system. See: Repair, air
reservoir - drain.

Pressure switch
Mounted on the reservoir is a pressure switch which senses air pressure and signals the ECU to operate the compressor when required. The compressor will operate when pressure falls to between 7.2 and 8.0 bar. It will cut out at a rising pressure of between 9.5 and 10.5 bar.

Air springs components
I. Top plate
2. Rolling rubber diaphragm
3. Piston

The air springs are mounted in the same position as conventional coil springs. Front and back air springs are of similar construction, but are not interchangeable. The diaphragm is NOT repairable; if failure occurs, the complete unit must be replaced.

AIR PIPE COLOR CODES
The following pipes have a colored band to aid assembly:
Component - Color
Back left spring - Red
Back right spring - Blue
Front left spring - Yellow
Front right spring - Green
Reservoir - Brown
Exhaust - Violet

SYSTEM OPERATION
Air is drawn through the inlet filter (1) to the compressor (2), where it is compressed to 10.0 f 0.5 bar.

Compressor operation activates the diaphragm solenoid valve (12) to prevent air going straight to atmosphere.

Compressed air passes to the air dryer (3). Moisture is removed as air flows through the dryer desiccant. The desiccant in the dryer becomes wet.

Dried air passes to the valve block, through NRVI to the reservoir (4).

The three non-return valves (6) ensure correct air flow. They also prevent loss of spring pressure if total loss of reservoir pressure occurs.

A pressure switch (5) maintains system pressure between set limits by switching the compressor on and off via an ECU-controlled relay.

For air to be admitted to any spring or springs, inlet valve (7) and the relevant air spring solenoid valve or valves (9) must be energized.

For air to be exhausted from any spring, the exhaust valve ( 8 ) and the relevant air spring solenoid valve or valves must be energized.

The diaphragm solenoid valve ensures that air exhausted to atmosphere passes through the dryer. This action purges moisture from the desiccant and regenerates the air dryer.

Air is finally exhausted through the system-air-operated diaphragm valve (13) and to atmosphere through a silencer (14) at the chassis rear crossmember.

ECU INPUTS
The air suspension system is controlled by the ECU, which operates dependant on driver-selected inputs plus those listed below. In each mode the ECU maintains the requested ride height by adjusting the volume of air in one or more of the air springs.

Battery - 12 volt supply from ignition load relay.

Engine - from alternator phase tap, signals engine speed to ECU. Note that engine must be running for all height changes, except access and self-leveling when parked The compressor will be disabled if engine speed falls below 500 rev/min. This is to prevent the compressor drawing current from the battery when the alternator is not charging.

Height sensors four potentiometer height sensors provide suspension height signals to the ECU.

Road speed - the road speed transducer provides information enabling height changes to occur at correct road speed. Input speed signal to ECU is from a buffer unit located in the driver's side foot well.

Interior light delay unit - signals ECU if any door (not tailgate) is opened, which immediately suspends all height changes.

Park brake switch, manual vehicles the park brake must be ON to enter ACCESS

Gearbox inhibit switch, automatic vehicles - the transmission must be in park to enter access, park brake on or off.

Footbrake switch (brake light) - when footbrake is applied, and for one second after release, all height leveling is suspended below 1.6 kph (1 mph) and above 11 kph (5 mph). The purpose of this is to prevent the system reacting to suspension movement caused by weight transfer during braking and to prevent suspension windup during height change. Note that this inhibit function is removed after sixty seconds; e.g. if footbrake is held on for this time.

Delayed turn off relay remains energized after switching engine off and exiting vehicle, enables self-leveling to occur for 20 sec. If vehicle is stationary, the ECU will energize the relay every six hours to allow self-leveling to occur if necessary.

Reservoir pressure switch - when the ECU detects an output from the pressure switch indicating low pressure, the ECU will operate the compressor relay until the pressure switch indicates normal pressure.

Diagnostic plug ground - note that the two halves of the diagnostic plug are normally connected. When disconnected the system will not operate. It will remain frozen at its current height until reconnected.

Disable switch - In the disable position, the switch sends a door open signal to the ECU. This freezes the system in position at speeds below 56 kph (35 mph).

SYSTEM FUNCTION
The following table indicates conditions required for various air suspension modes.
NOTE: That the engine must be running unless indicated, and that ACCESS may be selected for 15 seconds after switching engine off.

Function - Condition - Warning lamp on
1. Automatic functions - Inhibit switch OFF.
High profile to standard - Over 56 kph (35 mph) - No
Standard to low profile - Over 80 kph (50 mph) for 30 sec - Lower
Low profile to Standard - Below 56 kph (35 mph) for 30 sec (but above 1.6 kph (1 mph)) - No
Access to standard - Park brake off or drive away - No

2. Driver select functions - Inhibit switch OFF.
Standard to high profile - Raise switch below 56 kph (35 mph) - Raise
High profile to standard - Lower switch below 56 kph (35 mph) - No
Standard to access - Lower switch )Stationary - Lower
)park brake on
Low profile to access - Lower switch )- manual/ - Lower
(where vehicle has not returned to standard )transmission P
)- automatic
High to Access - Press lower switch twice )doors shut - No
Access to standard - Raise switch - Lower
Access to high - Press raise switch twice - Raise

3. Inhibit switch ON
High profile to standard - Below 56 kph (35 mph) - Inhibit
Low profile to standard - - Inhibit
Access to standard - Stationary/park brake on - Inhibit

4. Self-leveling
Vehicle leveling for 20 sec, and every 6 hrs - Stationary/engine off/exit vehicle - No

DIAGNOSTICS AND FAULT RECOVERY
The ECU incorporates Fault Recovery Strategies to minimize the effect of a system failure. A serial data link is provided to allow diagnostic information to be retrieved using the Lucas hand held tester. This is also used to set height sensor datum when required.
Note that the serial link connector is colored black for identification purposes. Any faults stored in the ECU memory (from the previous or current running period) will cause the ECU to flash the RAISE and LOWER lamps for 30 sec. followed by continuous illumination.
If the ECU registers a system fault, it will store the fault in the memory. The fault recovery program will operate the system depending on the nature of the fault as follows:
Speed sensor fault - the ECU will place the system in standard height and activate inhibit.
Height sensor fault the ECU will place the system in standard height and activate inhibit. Note that if more than one height sensor fails, the ECU will deflate the air springs to the bump stops.

WARNING: If any two failures occur, the system deflates and lowers vehicle to its bump stops. It is possible to drive the vehicle provided that great caution is exercised. The vehicle ride will be extremely uncomfortable and only low speeds will be possible. It is essential that the vehicle fault be rectified as soon as possible.

Pressure switch fault - the ECU will register pressure switch failure if it detects that the compressor has worked for a programmed time with normal air spring operation possible. The ECU will periodically operate the compressor as air is required. The vehicle will be inhibited to standard.

Compressor fault - the ECU will register compressor failure if it detects that the compressor has worked for a programmed time with normal air spring operation not possible. The ECU will attempt to place the system in standard ride height, or a safe lowered position (which could be system deflated). The system will be inhibited from further ride height changes.

Air leaks - during normal operation, the ECU correlates the operating time of the compressor with air usage. If compressor use is greater than programmed, the ECU will register an air lank and attempt to place the system in standard ride height, or a safe lowered position (which could be system deflated). The system will be inhibited from further ride height changes.

Valve block fault - the control of each air spring is monitored to determine that every valve is working correctly.
1. If the ECU detects an air valve stuck open, it will attempt to adjust the vehicle to standard height or a safe lowered position (which could be system deflated). The system will be inhibited from further ride height changes.
2. If an air valve is stuck closed above standard height, the ECU will deflate the other three air springs.
3. If an air valve is stuck closed at or below standard height, the ECU will attempt to adjust the other springs to the same height and activate inhibit.

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
This section gives repair procedures for air suspension components. It is essential to note that repairs to other suspension and transmission components are affected by air suspension. To remove the following components, depressurize the system: front axle, panhard rod, radius arms, rear top and bottom links, and rear axle.

WARNING: The air spring must be restricted by suspension loading, with shock absorbers fitted before inflation. Unrestricted movement of a pressurized air spring will result in failure of the assembly, causing component and possible personal injury.

DEPRESSURIZE SYSTEM
Service repair no - 60.5038

Service tool: RTC 6834 - Lucas hand held tester
WARNING: Air suspension is pressurized up to 10 bar. Dirt or grease must not enter the system. Wear hand, ear and eye safety standard protection when servicing system.
1. Depressurizing system will lower body on to bump stops.
2. Connect hand held tester and follow manufacturer's instructions to depressurize complete system.
3. Ensure system is completely depressurized. Check that all air springs are deflated and vehicle has dropped evenly to the bump stops. If a spring or springs remains inflated possibly due to a stuck solenoid valve, it will be necessary to disconnect the pressurized pipe at air spring.
WARNING: Wear hand, ear and eye safety standard protection. For extra protection wrap a clean cloth around pipe to be disconnected. Note that vehicle will lower to bump stops when pipe is disconnected.
4. Disconnect air pipe see disconnect/connect air pipe.
5. Disable system using switch under right hand front seat.
Repressurize
6. Switch disable switch OFF.
7. Run engine to repressurize system.

AIR RESERVOIR - DRAIN
Service repair no - 50.50.24
The reservoir is drained every 30,000 Km (24,000 miles) - USA 30,000 miles.
1. Depressurize system.
2. Clean area around reservoir drain plug.
3. Partially open drain plug, allow residual air to escape.
4. Remove drain plug, NO water should be present. If water is present, air dryer unit must be changed.
5. Fit drain plug, checking sealing washer. Tighten to 70 Nm.
6. Repressurize system.

LEAK TEST PROCEDURE
Service repair no - 60.50.35
If an air leak is suspected the USE of a proprietary leak detection spray is recommended. This procedure should also be used where pneumatic components have been disturbed. The spray used must have a corrosion inhibitor, and must not cause damage to paintwork, plastics, metals, and plastic pipes.
Recommended leak detector spray is GOTEC LDS. This is available under part number STC 1090.
1. Ensure system is fully pressurized.
2. Clean around area of suspected leak.
3. Using manufacturer's instructions, spray around all component joints and air springs, working systematically until source of leak is found.
4. If a component e.g.: air spring, air dryer is leaking, rectify by fitting a new component.
5. If an air pipe connection is leaking cut 5 mm off end of pipe. Fit new collet.
6. Reinflate system; carry out leak test.

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Rover Compressor Circuit
This circuit will cause the compressor to fill the tank up to the pressure switch's setting whenever the key is in RUN, even if the engine is not running. If the tank fills, or the compressor overheats, it will shut off. If the compressor is overheated, but the tank isn't full, switching to OVERRIDE will force the compressor to finish filling the tank. If multiple compressors are needed, wire them in parallel at points 1, 2, & ground, AND delete the dash switch & override ground wire.

This is the compressor:


See also:

. .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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Aux Lights Circuit

A safe, reliable circuit for adding auxilliary lights. A common 30A Bosch/ISO relay will handle up to 6 55W bulbs using a 30A fuse. A pair of 55W bulbs only requires a 10A fuse. The 3A fuse is only necessary if the new relay is on the other side of the firewall from the splice to the Br wire.

The "ON" setting of the dash switch is actually "AUTO" since it allows the main headlight switch to control the aux lights as if they were part of the original design.

See also:

. . .

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/1997/c37_39_p.pdf

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'03-up Hybrid Electronic Cluster Diagnostic Test Mode
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To enter the instrument cluster self-diagnostic mode with the ignition key in the OFF position, press and hold the odometer reset button (except message center cluster) or simultaneously press and hold the message center RESET and SETUP buttons (message center cluster only). Turn the key to the RUN position and hold until the display indicates TEST usually within three to five seconds. Depress the RESET button once to advance through each stage of the self-test.

To exit the instrument cluster self-test mode, turn the ignition to the OFF position.

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Disco2WattsRear.JPG | Hits: 4122 | Size: 86.09 KB | Posted on: 2/4/11 | Link to this image


Land Rover Discovery 2 rear suspension


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