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170 hits | 48.23 KB | Posted: 2/1/14
Cable installed. Blurry. It was cold and dark at this point.
(Posted in: The third pedal)

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174 hits | 49.11 KB | Posted: 2/1/14
Everything installed. It works fine.
(Posted in: The third pedal)

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177 hits | 64.58 KB | Posted: 2/1/14
Better shot.
(Posted in: The third pedal)

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184 hits | 49.97 KB | Posted: 2/1/14
Had to hammer a divot in the crossmember to clear the cast torque arm mounts on the extension housing. The crossmember is 1/8" thick so it took a bit of heat and a big hammer to get that much deformation. I painted it to keep out the rust.
(Posted in: The third pedal)

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481 hits | 91.55 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
One piece of 1/2" x 2 1/2" flat stock long enough for two new header flanges.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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376 hits | 88.34 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Fel-Pro 1415 exhaust gasket on top of the stock. I'll be cutting the ports to match the gasket but drilling the wider World Products 3" bolt pattern. This gasket is recommended by World Products for the 2" bolt pattern and it matches the ports well. ...
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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400 hits | 80.61 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Gasket taped down with the center line of the ports aligned with the center line of the flat stock. Just have to trace the ports.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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407 hits | 92.5 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Port outlines squared and scribed.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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397 hits | 79.91 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Taped the gasket back down to the port outlines and punched the corners. That's a piece of 1/2" tube with a transfer punch in the center. This accurately locates the center of the 1/2" drill that forms the corner of the port.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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344 hits | 104.25 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole first with a step bit. Then finished it with a 1/8" twist bit. Next I ran a 3/8" bit down the pilot hole and used a second step bit to expand the 3/8" hole to 1/2". In this picture you can see that some of the holes are fi...
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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392 hits | 88.63 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
After all the holes were drilled I scored the lines with a cut-off wheel on my angle grinder. Then I finished the scored areas with a body saw. Yes, it took awhile.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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384 hits | 92.2 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Once all the holes were roughed out I ground the sides smooth, straight, and square with a tungsten carbide burr in my die grinder. I use a short burr to get the ports close and a 6" long burr to finish them. The extra length lets me see what I'm doi...
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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440 hits | 91.11 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Gasket on top, finished ports in the middle. The cardboard on the bottom has the port layout from my head on it. I held it to the head with one bolt and tapped it with a hammer to transfer the port and bolt pattern.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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456 hits | 90.3 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
I used the cardboard to mark and drill the outermost bolt holes. Then I made relief cuts along the bottom to clear the head bolts and spark plugs. Straight cuts got most of it but I cut wider angled slots to get at least 1/8" around the ends of the s...
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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394 hits | 92.64 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
After I had clearance for the bolts and boots and got the plate sitting flush with the head, I needed to transfer the bolt holes from the head to the flange. So I ground a header bolt to a point and used studs in the outermost bolt holes. That way I ...
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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572 hits | 87.62 KB | Posted: 2/20/10
Finished flange with all the bolt holes drilled, spark plug boots and header bolts cleared, and ports done. Total cost in materials, $10. Total time, 8 hours, and I still have another one to make.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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490 hits | 84.1 KB | Posted: 3/14/10
Cutting the old header flanges off the headers. The weld penetration wasn't consistent so the surface wasn't very flat. It took a bit of grinding to get them in plane.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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554 hits | 86.59 KB | Posted: 3/14/10
Here the flanges have been cut off and a couple have been squared to match the flanges. I welded four 1/2" steel rods to fill the holes in one of the pieces that came out of the flange holes. Then, I ground a taper in it so I could hammer it into the...
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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476 hits | 91.62 KB | Posted: 3/14/10
All the tubes have been squared and hammered back into plane and alignment. It matches the flange sitting on it.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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478 hits | 67.83 KB | Posted: 3/14/10
The tubes tacked to the flange.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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439 hits | 68.15 KB | Posted: 3/14/10
I drilled and tapped a 1"x3"x24" piece of cold rolled steel to bolt the flange to while welding. It really worked. The flange was about 1/8" warped just from tacking but it was very flat after getting fully welded.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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494 hits | 67.93 KB | Posted: 3/14/10
Both headers welded to their flanges and the ports ground smooth. I still need to grind the flanges perfectly smooth and maybe grind down the welds a bit.
(Posted in: Header flanges)

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170 hits | 37.56 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
I needed a place to put two radiator fan switches and the return water from the water-cooled turbos. I had some 1.25 in x 1.5 in aluminum stock lying around and I have the right tools. Here I'm just laying out the design.
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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187 hits | 41.69 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
Drilling a straight hole through 6 inches of aluminum when your drill press only has a 2 inch stroke is challenging but possible. Here the 3/8 inch pilot is drilled. I had to drill it from each end. The two holes were only off by a few thousandths in...
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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189 hits | 24.69 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
3/8 inch pilot drilled out to 3/4 inch. Still straight enough. It took a lot of stepping up drill bits to get here. Clearing chips from 3 inches down the hole is a chore.
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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189 hits | 60.95 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
All the holes drilled. Just about to start tapping.
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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180 hits | 75.54 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
Starting the tap. Long extension and socket make it easy to keep the tap straight when starting.
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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226 hits | 36.33 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
Fan switches installed. Turbo returns installed. Just need to order the 1/2 NPT to 3/4 hose barb fittings for the heater hose.

The fan switches are factory parts from early 80's Chrysler cars. The low temp is from a 2.6 around 1983 and the high temp...
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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180 hits | 34.74 KB | Posted: 2/8/14
I put 3/8 NPT tapped holes opposite the 1/2 NPT holes for the fan switches in case I ever need to use different temperature fan switches. 3/8 inch switches are more common.
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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176 hits | 57.89 KB | Posted: 4/13/14
Manifold installed. Had to make a heat shield for the air intake so I mounted the manifold to it. The low temp switch is toward the firewall so it turns the fan on when the coolant returns from the turbos gets above 185. The high temp switch turns on...
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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151 hits | 43.99 KB | Posted: 4/13/14
Another shot of the manifold. You can see the hose routing better here. The fan sensors are on the bottom. I spray painted the wires: blue for low temp; red for high temp.
(Posted in: Fan switch manifold)

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205 hits | 54.77 KB | Posted: 3/2/14
Made my own bell mouth adapters to bump the 2.5" air intake tubing up to the 3" required for the air filters. Just a 3" header reducer welded to a section of 3" exhaust pipe. Should be pretty good flow wise. These are just clamped...
(Posted in: Details)

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162 hits | 52.37 KB | Posted: 3/2/14
I rerouted the fuel line through the front crossmember but it turned out that the new route was closer to the exhaust than I like so i made this quick aluminum heat shield / bracket.
(Posted in: Details)

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237 hits | 59.23 KB | Posted: 3/2/14
The wire harness for the Taurus electric fan. That's a Saab relay block. It holds two relays and four fuses; perfect for a two speed fan installation.
(Posted in: Details)

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151 hits | 54.43 KB | Posted: 4/28/14
Kinda blurry picture of the heat shield I put over the passenger side header. It's 22 gauge mild steel so it won't melt and hopefully it will keep a lot of heat away from the fuel lines. They already have heat sleeve on them but there's no kill like ...
(Posted in: Details)

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182 hits | 49.81 KB | Posted: 4/28/14
Picture of the bracket I made to keep the clutch cable away from the header heat. It just clamps to the intake tube but I spent a good amount of time getting the bends right and painting it. I like things to look close to factory. Factory experimenta...
(Posted in: Details)

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181 hits | 75.92 KB | Posted: 5/6/14
Driver's side turbo with the finished air intake. Routed the blow off valve to the intake. That's an upper radiator hose for an 83 Buick Century with a 3.0. Took a bit of searching to find a 1.25" hose with a 90 degree bend the right length. Ben...
(Posted in: Details)

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184 hits | 71.6 KB | Posted: 5/6/14
Passenger side pretty much done. Heat shield protects the air intake. More heat shield on the fuel lines. Crappy battery hold down was the first thing I made for the car. The radiator fan switches and water returns from the turbos are on the other si...
(Posted in: Details)

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163 hits | 71.57 KB | Posted: 5/6/14
Driver's side air intake. MIG welder makes adding bits of steel easy. Barbecue paint dries very fast and is a nice flat black.
(Posted in: Details)

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187 hits | 49.36 KB | Posted: 6/7/14
The start of any bracket fabrication - cardboard. I like old soda boxes but any will do. This is just the first try. Lots of trimming and fiddling left to go.
(Posted in: Remote power steering reservoir)

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202 hits | 57.67 KB | Posted: 6/7/14
The top bracket is pretty close so it's time to start on the bottom bracket. The two pieces will eventually get welded together to form a single bracket but I need to get the general shape first.
(Posted in: Remote power steering reservoir)

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166 hits | 48.99 KB | Posted: 6/7/14
The top piece of steel is now cut out so I can hold the reservoir steady while I mark and trim the cardboard for the lower bracket. The steel is on top in this picture but the final bracket has the steel under the plastic. Tack welded it and couldn't...
(Posted in: Remote power steering reservoir)

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185 hits | 46.86 KB | Posted: 6/7/14
Steel rough cut for the lower bracket. I ended up having to trim this down quite a bit. The angle section hit the air filter and the long section wasn't long enough because I didn't think bout having to put the voltage regulator back in. Not a big de...
(Posted in: Remote power steering reservoir)

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215 hits | 51.33 KB | Posted: 6/7/14
About to weld the upright to the main bracket. In this picture the upper and lower pieces are together and trimmed so that I can rotate the reservoir into place. I wanted to weld a stud to the bracket so I wouldn't have to use two wrenches in a tight...
(Posted in: Remote power steering reservoir)

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212 hits | 58.94 KB | Posted: 6/7/14
Both brackets. The big bracket holds the reservoir and the smaller holds the 5/8" to 3/4" adapter for the hoses. The pump has a 5/8" nipple and the reservoir a 3/4" one. Not a big deal and having the bracket means the hose is more...
(Posted in: Remote power steering reservoir)