IMG_0039.JPG
916 hits | 78.57 KB | Posted: 2/24/08
(Posted in: Fuel pump relay)

IMG_0007.JPG
888 hits | 58.24 KB | Posted: 2/25/08
Fuel pump had been cutting out.
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0013.JPG
959 hits | 67.37 KB | Posted: 2/25/08
Almost like I'd been getting a bad connection
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0018.JPG
831 hits | 66.1 KB | Posted: 2/25/08
It would work and then it would die, almost like a bad ground
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0001.JPG
834 hits | 59.86 KB | Posted: 2/25/08
Just a bit of corrosion on the pins
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

FPC100.gif
932 hits | 10.91 KB | Posted: 2/26/08
Ah ha ! Found this replacement harness plug at NAPA. Part # FPC-100 runs around $6.00. Looks like the answer to my prayers !
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0016.JPG
790 hits | 75.06 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
Here's the two corroded terminals, busted loose out of the crumbling original connector, soaking in two straws filled with vinegar (acid).
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0024.JPG
893 hits | 54.62 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
One of the terminals plugged into the new connector. Note the rubber barbs that keep it weather proof. On the loose black wire note the tang on the metal clip. That clicks into the connector to hold them in.
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0005.JPG
827 hits | 29.94 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
The rubber barbs, on the stock wires, seal into each of these holes on the new connector
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0006.JPG
806 hits | 32.2 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
The metal tangs slip into the little recesses to the left of each socket hole with a satisfying positive "click", locating the terminals right where you want them, once and for all !
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0047.JPG
776 hits | 22.45 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
That's the best shot I could get of the little "tangs" on the terminal clips. You get four terminal clips with the connector, but you should be able to re-use your stock wires as they don't seem to deteriorate like the connector does.
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0021.JPG
801 hits | 74.79 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
My stock connector(which looks identical BTW) was so brittle I just broke my original terminals free of it.
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0034.JPG
876 hits | 60.68 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
Pin terminals cleaned of corrosion and lubed up with dielectric grease.
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

IMG_0037.JPG
871 hits | 66.44 KB | Posted: 2/27/08
New connector click satisfyingly into place and that muther fired right up ! The $6.00 fix !!!!!!!!! You gotta love it ! I'm going to replace every fuel line in the car come Spring !
(Posted in: Fuel sending unit harness)

EFI tune up kit Advance10885a-1.jpg
550 hits | 35.29 KB | Posted: 4/6/08
(Posted in: Injector rebuild)

IMG_0028.JPG
469 hits | 38.72 KB | Posted: 6/20/08
NAPA fuel filter is cheaper than Wallyworld or Canajian Tire. Had good luck so far with them.
(Posted in: Fuel Filter)

DSCF0221.JPG
931 hits | 50.91 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
My fuel lines were hole-y and rusted to pieces. Changed a few here and there in the Winter. Decided to get the hard to get areas now
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0250.JPG
696 hits | 58.37 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Tried to save long bits to copy the bends with. Worked quite well. I made them a little longer and cut them to size once they were in place.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0225.JPG
615 hits | 77.31 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
These are all you really need to save yourself $1,000.00, which is what many a stealership will charge you to replace them.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0244.JPG
722 hits | 54.91 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
The 25 foot coil of 5/16" fuel line was $19.50 for the whole coil. I had several 1/4" coils laying around from previous cars. Saving the clips makes the re-installation a lot easier.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0227.JPG
662 hits | 30.16 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Sticking the rubber vacuum plugs on both ends of the lines helps keep them clean as you install them.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0253.JPG
673 hits | 78.2 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Then just stick them in and readjust the bends as you go. It really isn't very difficult, just dirty and time consuming. Just keep thinking about how much money you're saving.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0239.JPG
812 hits | 74.96 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Here's a shot of the front passenger's side fuel and vapour lines clamped down by the clips and 10 mm bolt. I lubed under the clamp with rustproofing grease to TRY to slow down the line corrosion.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0256.JPG
704 hits | 61.39 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Don't be a-fearin' the dreaded "plastic crimped from the factory onto steel lines".
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0257.JPG
635 hits | 67.19 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Just slice down the side of the plastic line and free the perfectly re-usable barbed fitting. Slide it inside the high pressure fuel hose and clamp it.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0229.JPG
749 hits | 78.9 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
A couple of nearly perfect 90 degree bends secured tight to the frame rail by the factory clamp and that great ratchet wrench.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0271.JPG
686 hits | 69.41 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Dunno how I lived without these ratchet wrenches. Got a set of 28, on sale last week, and I'm loving them. Especially good for getting those clamp bolts between the frame and body.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

DSCF0268.JPG
676 hits | 54.87 KB | Posted: 6/24/08
Some of the old lines piled up ready for the trash.
(Posted in: Fuel lines)

IMG_0019.JPG
574 hits | 46.05 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
I'm just about to upgrade my 9004s to Streetglow 80/100 bulbs and I didn't want to burn down the TC with these stock 18 gauge fed headlight harnesses
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0074.JPG
530 hits | 36.32 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
I wanted 12 gauge wires (left) all the way from the headlight pins to the battery (fused of course). Unfortunately all that's available are stock type 18 gauge replacements (right).
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0056.JPG
512 hits | 32.59 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Just stick a pin or nail into the top of each terminal and you'll depress the tang so you can just pull the wire, with terminal, out the back of the connector.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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506 hits | 19.8 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Pry open the tang. That will allow you to pull back the weatherpack style rubber grommet, out of the way and off for shortening and re use.

(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0036.JPG
620 hits | 27.07 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
There's no need to try to pry open the next tang as you'll never get 12 gauge wire to fit where the 18 gauge was. Just leave it and cut it flush with a carpet knife, I solder right over it/to it anyway.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0069.JPG
513 hits | 24.85 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Press down with the carpet knife and just pull up on the wire and bend and break the rest of the strands. It's really easy this way.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0059.JPG
474 hits | 25.13 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
What you're left with is exactly what you're after, to solder the 12 gauge wire to.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0061.JPG
496 hits | 22.77 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Slice the snout off the grommet, as the 10 gauge wire doesn't need the extra length.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0067.JPG
514 hits | 22.08 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Slip the grommet over the new 10 gauge wire, crimp the outer tangs onto the wire and solder it solid.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0077.JPG
632 hits | 36.14 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Quite the difference now, with the 10 gauge wire next to the two 18 gauge wires. They just push back in and "click" into place. If the tang hasn't sprung back up (from being depressed) just lever it up before inserting it.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

IMG_0087.JPG
513 hits | 49.71 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
Far left note the two weatherpack type males to stick in the stock headlight socket for signal. Nearest the foot is the 40 amp Maxi fuse holder and common ground terminal. On the headlight support are the two relays with their pigtails and ground ter...
(Posted in: Harness)

IMG_0090.JPG
548 hits | 63.26 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
A close up of the Maxi Fuse. I equipped it with a 40 amp fuse and it connects to the "GM" positive side post on my battery, as my Lincoln uses the "normal" posts for the battery clamps.
(Posted in: Harness)

IMG_0091.JPG
525 hits | 52.56 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
A close up of the weatherpack type connectors I'm using to stick in the stock headlight plug to activate the relays.
(Posted in: Harness)

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484 hits | 74.79 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
Relay mounting point close up. I just yanked the headlight support and screwed the relays to it. With the stock plastic cover shroud back in place, prying enforcement types won't even notice them (grin).
(Posted in: Harness)

IMG_0101.JPG
582 hits | 46.34 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
Here's the 80/100 Streetglows. A bargain at $25.00 a pair up here. Pure white light with ZERO blue tinge like ricers and imports (yuck).
(Posted in: Streetglow 80/100s)

IMG_0102.JPG
671 hits | 50.17 KB | Posted: 10/6/08
Guess that's why it wasn't working. The actuator was laying in the bottom of the door, having fallen down once the rivet let go. The green hook was still in place(very much separate from the actuator), but the driver's lock wasn't locking or unlockin...
(Posted in: Door lock actuator)

IMG_0104.JPG
586 hits | 51.77 KB | Posted: 10/6/08
You can see one side of the "snout" of the housing was partially broken allowing the hook's gear teeth loose,so it fell off. After I took it apart I ended up simply using a 1" hose clamp to cinch up the snout and keep it together (until the glue drie...
(Posted in: Door lock actuator)