IMG_0040.JPG 2216 hits | 68.66 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 You're not going to believe how cheap, easy and fast this is to do ! (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0044.JPG 2142 hits | 64.04 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 Out comes one philips screw (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0045.JPG 2104 hits | 64.56 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 Everything looks normal so far (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0049.JPG 2067 hits | 58.76 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 Just to be safe I index marked the gear with the case, to help reassembly. (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0050.JPG 2058 hits | 67.09 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 In case anything moves I'll have a reference point to go by. (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0054.JPG 2695 hits | 65.3 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 With the center gear off (behind motor housing on bench) you can see those little nylon gear plugs have been crushed alright. (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0058.JPG 2597 hits | 59.17 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 The new ones at the rear of the photo against the crushed originals closer to you. (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0061.JPG 2138 hits | 67.84 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 Here's a shot of the empty gear casing. (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0063.JPG 2300 hits | 71.5 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 I pre-sprayed the housing with motorcycle chain lube before dropping in the new nylon gear plugs (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0064.JPG 2636 hits | 62.78 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 That's all there really is to the gearbox insides. Not really a bad system especially considering how cheap, fast and easy the plugs are to change (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0068.JPG 2237 hits | 66.32 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 After slapping plenty of synthetic grease onto the top gear, It's pushed back on the shaft indexed to those earlier marks. (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0069.JPG 2241 hits | 69.06 KB | Posted: 8/13/05 Put the cover and one screw back on and bolt it back onto the cable gearbox through the new holes in the inner door and you're ready for another 15 years service ! (Posted in: Power window repair (rear))
IMG_0035.JPG 625 hits | 75.54 KB | Posted: 8/12/05 Man was this worth pulling in for ! Almost drove by a country junkyard today. Pulled in and they had two complete, just in, 1990 Town Cars. Scored the working power antenna, the front plate holder, all four AutoVentShades AND a stain free trunk carpe... (Posted in: August 12th)
IMG_0015.JPG 1223 hits | 49.53 KB | Posted: 8/12/05 This is all you need for a drain plug for the old AOD transmission pan. That and a drill and a friend who can weld. (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0075.JPG 834 hits | 69.89 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 First drill a pilot hole then drill it out to 1/2" and de-burr the hole. Why did I decide to drill right there ? (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0043.JPG 812 hits | 65.09 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 Not only was I copying the Ford Racing pan's bolt location, but where my finger is pointing is the only fairly deep "well" area that the drain bolt won't interfere with anything. (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0077.JPG 769 hits | 62.72 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 Simply snug the nut to the inside of the pan, using an old drain bolt and the plastic washer on the other side. The reason is without the washer, which will melt, we welded the bolt to the pan ! (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0081.JPG 842 hits | 63.7 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 I'd say we got weld penetration, wouldn't you ? Once I pulled out the old bolt I just ground the weld flat to the pan until smooth and shot that area with paint to prevent rust. (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0085.JPG 1064 hits | 49.82 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 With the weld cleaned up this is as pretty as it needs to be inside the pan and leakproof to be sure. (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0091.JPG 887 hits | 42.42 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 New drain plug and washer going in. I like to use the exact size and bolt as the oil pan, to keep the number of spares I need to carry to a minimum. (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0106.JPG 1069 hits | 46.13 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 In place and dirty already, but ready to drain without soaking me and my floor next year ! (Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)
IMG_0019.JPG 2839 hits | 38.28 KB | Posted: 8/12/05 Thanks to Lincolnsonline I scored one of these from the dealer for under a buck ! Part # F3SZ-7H303-B (Posted in: Factory recall brass throttle cable bushing)
IMG_0020.JPG 1304 hits | 31.98 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 Just as well, look at the condition of the original stock part. (Posted in: Factory recall brass throttle cable bushing)
IMG_0011.JPG 720 hits | 46.93 KB | Posted: 8/23/05 Wondering what this is ? (Posted in: August 22)
IMG_0109.JPG 762 hits | 86.77 KB | Posted: 8/24/05 Despite the fluid being dirty, it had zero metal content in it and there was no visible wear on any gear teeth. A quick count verified a 3.27 ratio. Nobody uses gaskets anymore, just clean the cover mating surface and silicone it back on, using the m... (Posted in: Axle Fluid Change)
IMG_0023.JPG 499 hits | 53.79 KB | Posted: 6/20/08 Trying out the fully synthetic Royal Purple. Less friction and rolling resistance is the hope. (Posted in: Axle Fluid Change)
IMG_0026.JPG 944 hits | 45.86 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Two 2 1/4" pipes enter, One 3" pipe exits. This is Flowmaster Y collector part # 300214A. At $34.00 it's a pretty good deal. They claim it's worth 25-40 ft/lbs of torque and after using it on my Bronco I believe it ! (Posted in: Flowmaster 3" Y collector)
IMG_0028.JPG 817 hits | 40.1 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Looking down the business end it's not hard to imagine this flows a lot of gases, very efficiently. (Posted in: Flowmaster 3" Y collector)
IMG_0029.JPG 663 hits | 50.35 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 My pics are not really doing it justice, it's a piece of "Flow art" in my opinion. The first 2" in each pipe are stretched to accept 2 1/4" headpipes from the manifolds or headers, to be welded into it. (Posted in: Flowmaster 3" Y collector)
IMG_0031.JPG 775 hits | 42.45 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Weld a cat or muffler to this fine collector pipe and you'll get one use of this pipe for all time. Now weld a 3" header collector flange, as placed on the 3" end of the pipe, and you're choices are limitless. (Posted in: Flowmaster 3" Y collector)
IMG_0056.JPG 1239 hits | 57.34 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Starting to see what I'm up to yet ? I always show up at my pipe bending buddy's shop with all these goodies to make his life easier. (Posted in: Flowmaster 3" Y collector)
IMG_0051.JPG 779 hits | 62.55 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 This is the 3" Catco cat I always use. It's a 3 stage, stand alone cat with an air pipe to hook up to the air pump. No it's not stainless and no it's not highflow, but it's $40 and..... Newsflash ! 3" cats flow an awful lot more than 2" units. (Posted in: Catco Catalytic Converter 3")
IMG_0062.JPG 690 hits | 80.64 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Here I am holding it up to the light. Again this is not stainless, the reasoning is; stainless lasts for years, cat innards are busted up or not functioning in half that time anyway, so why pay double for stainless. Note the three inch header flanges... (Posted in: Catco Catalytic Converter 3")
IMG_0064.JPG 774 hits | 33.64 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 It's nearly impossible for a camera to show you that you can practically read through these cats, so flow is not an issue in my experiance. (Posted in: Catco Catalytic Converter 3")
IMG_0008.JPG 694 hits | 55.69 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 This is a kit sold for @ $12 which allows you to neck down from Ford 3/4" air pump pipe down to the more standard sized 1/2" pipe on the Catco catalytic converter. (Posted in: Cat to Air Pump Kit)
IMG_0054.JPG 1039 hits | 52.33 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 This is what I'm up to. Now to get from the manifolds to the Flowmaster Y-collector you need a couple of things. (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0007.JPG 728 hits | 78 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 The stud centers on a 1990 Lincoln Town Car's header-like manifolds are 3 3/4" center to center. (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0014.JPG 802 hits | 57.21 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 The hole centers on these "uber-handy" slip on (and weld) flange ends were not originally 3 3/4". (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0003.JPG 877 hits | 43.66 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 My die grinder made short work of opening them up until they were plenty big enough to accept the Lincoln's manifold studs. A normal power drill would do the same thing, just takes more time. (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0039.JPG 728 hits | 55.68 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Manifold studs and regular steel nuts usually "become one" with the universe given time and salt. If you ever plan on getting these off again........ (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0038.JPG 756 hits | 62.7 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Brass nuts are cheap, like a buck each cheap. What would you pay later to have this come off so easily ? They are 7/16 UNC-14 on a Lincoln (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0052.JPG 746 hits | 59.91 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 Now it takes a pipe bender, with the tools and skill, to connect the flare ends to the Flowmaster Y collector and weld them up. (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0019.JPG 970 hits | 58.55 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 5.0 litres only need 2" flare ends for the manifold ball. By using a reducer (increaser in this case) I can get it back to 2 1/4" like the Flowmaster Y collector requires. (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0117.JPG 966 hits | 69.04 KB | Posted: 9/19/05 Halfway down, with the cat on, but frankly this is stellar pipe bending on my buddy's part. It's tight to the body, clears everything and will flow like the dickens I'm sure ! (Posted in: Manifolds to Flowmaster Y)
IMG_0051.JPG 544 hits | 62.55 KB | Posted: 9/16/05 After the 3" collector and 3" cat it's time to neck back down to Lincoln Town Car reality, which is in fact 2". Not to worry as I did this with the Bronco and the performance was vastly improved and the mileage jumped 3mpg !!!! (Posted in: Catalytic to Muffler)
|