PIC00464.JPG 584 hits | 67.24 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 This side was no hell either (Posted in: Roof repairs)
PIC00468.JPG 584 hits | 66.57 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 Usually my favourite rust removal tool (Posted in: Roof repairs)
PIC00471.JPG 514 hits | 57.35 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 Another favourite tool (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0207.JPG 465 hits | 69.14 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 This one with 36 grit worked surprisingly well in the hard to get at areas. (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0205.JPG 551 hits | 40.51 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 My trusty die grinder comes in handy on all sorts of jobs, even bodywork. (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0196.JPG 560 hits | 48.88 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 Rust removal in progress (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0198.JPG 604 hits | 60.68 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 More grinding and sanding to come (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0202.JPG 548 hits | 60.24 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 Still more (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0209.JPG 550 hits | 51.27 KB | Posted: 10/8/06 Buttoning up for the night (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0242.JPG 593 hits | 58.14 KB | Posted: 10/10/06 Still spraying (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0240.JPG 539 hits | 56.38 KB | Posted: 10/10/06 And spraying the clearcoat (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0246.JPG 574 hits | 62.71 KB | Posted: 10/10/06 All finished ! Apple autoglass showed up with a Beeea-u-tiful new windshield and did an A-1 job installing it. (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0244.JPG 616 hits | 80.05 KB | Posted: 10/10/06 Yes, you get a brand new outer weatherseal with trim with the new windshield. In addition it even comes with the new mirroe hanger already glued on. (Posted in: Roof repairs)
IMG_0005.JPG 614 hits | 64.51 KB | Posted: 10/12/06 Doesn't really warrant it's own section, but so many people asked, so here you go. Having yanked the upper intake off (elsewhere here), you can pull the valve covers. (Posted in: FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets)
IMG_0006.JPG 627 hits | 59.5 KB | Posted: 10/12/06 The gasket closest to you is ready to go on, with the side that is facing up, to go against the valve cover. The farther away gasket is upside down, exposing the 4 tiny silicone ribs that will seal off against the cylinder head. (Posted in: FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets)
IMG_0011.JPG 598 hits | 84.06 KB | Posted: 10/12/06 A lot of crap has to be disconnected and slung outta the way to get this far, but these may well be the last valve cover gaskets you SB Ford ever needs. (Posted in: FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets)
IMG_0012.JPG 698 hits | 103.07 KB | Posted: 10/12/06 A touching scene for a Ford guy; PermaDryPlus gaskets AND Ford Motorsport 9mm wires. It just don't get much better than that (sniff). (Posted in: FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets)
IMG_0021.JPG 646 hits | 87.29 KB | Posted: 10/12/06 This is before the oil change, after 3000 miles. I've seen dirtier 16 year old engines. I'm pretty happy with the condition of the engine and lack of sludge build up, overall. (Posted in: FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets)
IMG_0023.JPG 590 hits | 79.25 KB | Posted: 10/12/06 How tight to you tighten the completely dry gaskets ? (yes, they go on completely dry, no sealant whatsoever). I use this palm ratchet to snug em' down and ensure I ain't crushing them. (Posted in: FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets)
Copy of Barra016.jpg 704 hits | 29.95 KB | Posted: 10/13/06 Here we have the air pump's diverter valve (Posted in: Diverter valve)
IMG_0274.JPG 571 hits | 23.86 KB | Posted: 10/14/06 This is a 5/16" alan stud that will allow undetected hose blockage. Simply screw it far into the hose with an alan key. Then use the alan key to back it out later. (Posted in: Hose block screw)
IMG_0307.JPG 538 hits | 49 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 This sawed off 5/16" bolt shaft is also perfect for undetectable hose blockage. Remember to file the edges so you don't damage the hoses.
(Posted in: Hose block screw)
IMG_0277.JPG 462 hits | 65.49 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 Two half inch bolts that couldn't be more poorly located for access, removability or for re-installation. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0284.JPG 508 hits | 60.69 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 All 1/2" wrenches on deck, as it's a 1/16th of a turn at a time to get the bolts started on un-doing. I shortened the lower bolt by a 1/4" last time with a hacksaw, for easier removal and installation. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0286.JPG 580 hits | 49.68 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 Pull the upper rad hose off for better access, but I leave the smaller bypass hose on until later, though I slack off it's hose clamp now, while I can. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0287.JPG 436 hits | 58.53 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 Pull off the coolant temp sensor plug for better access as well. I had to clock mine slightly different from stock to allow the extra temp sensor into the aftermarket T-stat housing (it's for my Taurus electric fan). (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0290.JPG 441 hits | 80.25 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 The upper bolt, on the passenger's side, is easy enough to access using 1/4" drive socket, extension and ratchet, once a wrench has broke it loose. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0289.JPG 450 hits | 75.01 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 You can barely catch and tease off the lower, driver's side bolt with the 1/4" drive 1/2" socket, with great effort. Again once the wrench has busted the bolt loose. I ALWAYS re-coat the bolt threads with anti-seize. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0293.JPG 434 hits | 49.72 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 Lay a bit of sealant on the inside of the now cleaned T-stat housing locating indent. I use Permatex Ultra-Copper on everything under the hood, because it's high heat and sensor safe. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0296.JPG 417 hits | 59.46 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 In goes the Stant 205 degree T-stat. Yes, 205 degrees, it's Winter up here and it warms the car up much faster and keeps the engine operating in the most efficient range for mileage and emissions. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0298.JPG 464 hits | 52.23 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 On goes more sealant onto the gasket. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0300.JPG 464 hits | 46.36 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 Slap the p!$$ poor quality ROL gasket on over the sealant. Look closely and you can make out the numbers "205" in the middle of the T-stat. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0301.JPG 481 hits | 60.76 KB | Posted: 10/15/06 More sealant over the terrible quality ROL gasket and slap the whole thing back together. (Posted in: T-stat change)
IMG_0354.JPG 619 hits | 59.19 KB | Posted: 4/12/07 Once you realize the previous owner busted off the mounting screw bosses on your front door speaker covers, think about fixing them on this way (Posted in: Front speaker cover fix)
IMG_0357.JPG 642 hits | 52.13 KB | Posted: 4/12/07 Just a huge dab of plain silicone to grab hold onto the speaker cover. It will also make up the missing height needed to put the velcro patch in contact with the one you'll stick on the door panel. I just squash the silicone down to the desired heigh... (Posted in: Front speaker cover fix)
IMG_0456.JPG 611 hits | 60.46 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Couldn't get a straight answer off some of teh Lincoln forums on whether my 90' had greasable wheel bearings or not. There they are and yes they're greasable. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0489.JPG 556 hits | 60.28 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Forgot to take removal of the pads/caliper pics, so...note the 5/8" slider bolts that come out to allow caliper and pad removal. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0459.JPG 603 hits | 62.08 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Once you've pulled off the dust cover, removed the cotter pin and undone the bearing nut, the rotor comes off in your hands. Pry out the inner (only) seal to access the large inner wheel bearing. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0490.JPG 525 hits | 69.23 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 The passenger's inner seal had failed on mine and had obviously been free of the rotor for a long while, judging by the sludge build up. Thank goodness Lincoln puts those plastic liners in there to catch the grease. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0462.JPG 564 hits | 53.81 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Out lifts larger inner wheel bearing. It's an American made Timken in good shape, so I'm just going to re-clean it and re-use it. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0463.JPG 562 hits | 38.92 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Into the solvent and shake it around to clean all the old grease out of the bearing race. Then blow dry or set them out on rags to wick dry. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0464.JPG 592 hits | 58.52 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Meanwhile you can be wiping out the old grease from inside the hub. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0465.JPG 540 hits | 62.11 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Do the same on the smaller outer bearing's hub race too. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0479.JPG 547 hits | 51.57 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 Wipe clean the spindle as well. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
IMG_0482.JPG 602 hits | 50.2 KB | Posted: 4/29/07 May as well lube up the two spindle contact areas while you're at it too. I spend the extra dollar and get real fully synthetic grease. I can't prove it, but it feels like it rolls and glides better. (Posted in: Front pads & grease wheel bearings)
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