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406 hits | 55.58 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
Note the offset on this one. I've already done this once before with a 2 1/4" to 2" GMC (4.3 truck) muffler and that offset is nearly perfect to position an aftermarket muffler in the stock location.
(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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413 hits | 45.76 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
This little trick will allow me to utilize the stock Lincoln rubber isolated hangers to support the Areochamber muffler.
(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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417 hits | 59.46 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
In goes the Stant 205 degree T-stat. Yes, 205 degrees, it's Winter up here and it warms the car up much faster and keeps the engine operating in the most efficient range for mileage and emissions.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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417 hits | 55.5 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
I bent almost no drop in this one because the Hooker muffler is a little bit thicker than stock and I don't want it hanging down "AT ALL".
(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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434 hits | 49.72 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
Lay a bit of sealant on the inside of the now cleaned T-stat housing locating indent. I use Permatex Ultra-Copper on everything under the hood, because it's high heat and sensor safe.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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436 hits | 58.53 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
Pull off the coolant temp sensor plug for better access as well. I had to clock mine slightly different from stock to allow the extra temp sensor into the aftermarket T-stat housing (it's for my Taurus electric fan).
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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439 hits | 48.11 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
With the tailpipe being clamped "over" the muffler stub I'll be using these 2 3/4" clamps.
(Posted in: Hooker Areochamber muffler)

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441 hits | 80.25 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
The upper bolt, on the passenger's side, is easy enough to access using 1/4" drive socket, extension and ratchet, once a wrench has broke it loose.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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441 hits | 48.01 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
Kevin's welds don't break
(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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445 hits | 70.17 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
To say it's easy to build would be an understatement. Just bend the 3/8" mild steel rod in the vice with hammers.
(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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450 hits | 75.01 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
You can barely catch and tease off the lower, driver's side bolt with the 1/4" drive 1/2" socket, with great effort. Again once the wrench has busted the bolt loose. I ALWAYS re-coat the bolt threads with anti-seize.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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462 hits | 65.49 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
Two half inch bolts that couldn't be more poorly located for access, removability or for re-installation.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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464 hits | 52.23 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
On goes more sealant onto the gasket.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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464 hits | 46.36 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
Slap the p!$$ poor quality ROL gasket on over the sealant. Look closely and you can make out the numbers "205" in the middle of the T-stat.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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465 hits | 69.14 KB | Posted: 10/8/06
This one with 36 grit worked surprisingly well in the hard to get at areas.
(Posted in: Roof repairs)

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469 hits | 38.72 KB | Posted: 6/20/08
NAPA fuel filter is cheaper than Wallyworld or Canajian Tire. Had good luck so far with them.
(Posted in: Fuel Filter)

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471 hits | 49.02 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
The OD (outside diameter) really is nearly 2 11/16" meaning 2 1/2" clamps are almost out, as I intend to "expand" the tailpipe "over" the muffler, not stick it inside the muffler (as I'm clamping, not welding the muffler in).
(Posted in: Hooker Areochamber muffler)

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472 hits | 32.66 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
It's truly amazing how well this Impala SS tailpipe makes all the right turns and bends for our panthers. The real beauty is the mandrel bends on 2 1/2" pipe, not 2 1/4" Chev piping or 2" (1 7/8"?) Lincoln piping.
(Posted in: Hooker Areochamber muffler)

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474 hits | 25.13 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
What you're left with is exactly what you're after, to solder the 12 gauge wire to.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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476 hits | 86.58 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
Pop these plastic plugs out from the sides (four) and the rear just under the weatherseal (four mo') .
(Posted in: Trunk carpet removal)

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476 hits | 32.71 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
Every Chev and his dog exit through Flowmasters, I wanted to sound different than just more droning noise for the sake of being a Chev. This Hooker Areochamber outflows "ANY" Flowmaster and sounds deeper, yet doesn't drone at cruise.
(Posted in: Hooker Areochamber muffler)

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481 hits | 60.76 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
More sealant over the terrible quality ROL gasket and slap the whole thing back together.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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484 hits | 74.79 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
Relay mounting point close up. I just yanked the headlight support and screwed the relays to it. With the stock plastic cover shroud back in place, prying enforcement types won't even notice them (grin).
(Posted in: Harness)

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485 hits | 31.24 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
The case is fairly heavy and well built from the look and feel of it.
(Posted in: Hooker Areochamber muffler)

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486 hits | 68.01 KB | Posted: 9/16/05
Stainless 3/8" bolts (an inch long), stainless lock washers and brass 3/8" nuts are the way to go if you want to get them off again in the future.
(Posted in: Catalytic to Muffler)

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489 hits | 68.14 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
These drain plugs do anything BUT drain. They seem to rust out and defeat the silicone that's suppose to be sealing them off. After that water is allowed INTO the truck because of them.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

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490 hits | 55.78 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
Quick trip to my welding buddy and it's secured for life. (thanks Kevin B)
(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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491 hits | 49.56 KB | Posted: 4/27/09
Time to change the parts. The used replacement sits under the hood.
(Posted in: Minor collision repair)

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494 hits | 61.34 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
A little saran wrap allows you to slap the newly cleaned carpets back in before the sealant is completely dried. I did the access holes under the seats when I pulled the main in-car carpets as well. Car's a lot drier for it.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

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494 hits | 25.23 KB | Posted: 4/27/09
Change of plans. Steamngn, from Lincolnsonline, came through for me in a big way with this 90' filler panel for under the headlight. He also sent me the other side and a pile of other goodies, all in great shape.
(Posted in: Minor collision repair)

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496 hits | 58.25 KB | Posted: 8/3/07
Next step, add 2 3/4" muffler clamp...

(Posted in: Using the stock hangers)

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496 hits | 22.77 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Slice the snout off the grommet, as the 10 gauge wire doesn't need the extra length.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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499 hits | 53.79 KB | Posted: 6/20/08
Trying out the fully synthetic Royal Purple. Less friction and rolling resistance is the hope.
(Posted in: Axle Fluid Change)

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499 hits | 65.85 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
I know it's not for cars but I just can't resist using the PL400 contruction adhesive to permanently glue down and seal off the access panels.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

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500 hits | 52.91 KB | Posted: 4/27/09
Then the only other fastener is the philips screw down the black strip at the rear, level with the Lincoln emblem.
(Posted in: Minor collision repair)

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505 hits | 63.11 KB | Posted: 1/21/09
This is the wiper motor transmission. Next to it is the old, baffed one.
(Posted in: Wiper transmission)

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506 hits | 19.8 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Pry open the tang. That will allow you to pull back the weatherpack style rubber grommet, out of the way and off for shortening and re use.

(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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507 hits | 52.91 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
May not look like much, but those 4 door pull trim cover tabs are GOLD ! all on their own. I also scored some much needed brake/fuel line hold down clips, an airbox hose connector (I aim to modify) and my driver's door panel speaker cover (which I've...
(Posted in: August 4th)

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508 hits | 60.69 KB | Posted: 10/15/06
All 1/2" wrenches on deck, as it's a 1/16th of a turn at a time to get the bolts started on un-doing. I shortened the lower bolt by a 1/4" last time with a hacksaw, for easier removal and installation.
(Posted in: T-stat change)

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512 hits | 32.59 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Just stick a pin or nail into the top of each terminal and you'll depress the tang so you can just pull the wire, with terminal, out the back of the connector.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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513 hits | 24.85 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Press down with the carpet knife and just pull up on the wire and bend and break the rest of the strands. It's really easy this way.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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513 hits | 49.71 KB | Posted: 10/1/08
Far left note the two weatherpack type males to stick in the stock headlight socket for signal. Nearest the foot is the 40 amp Maxi fuse holder and common ground terminal. On the headlight support are the two relays with their pigtails and ground ter...
(Posted in: Harness)

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514 hits | 57.35 KB | Posted: 10/8/06
Another favourite tool
(Posted in: Roof repairs)

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514 hits | 22.08 KB | Posted: 9/30/08
Slip the grommet over the new 10 gauge wire, crimp the outer tangs onto the wire and solder it solid.
(Posted in: 9004 headlight relays)

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517 hits | 50.33 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
Slip in the O-rings and make sure they seat properly.
(Posted in: Rad change)