IMG_0100.JPG
902 hits | 66.7 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Another shot from above. You can see it's right in the airstream for maximum flow through of air.
(Posted in: Large Transmission Cooler)

IMG_0098.JPG
1463 hits | 78.84 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Through the grill shot. Right where it needs to be for the best airflow through it.
(Posted in: Large Transmission Cooler)

IMG_0073.JPG
1473 hits | 70.88 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
I chose the passenger's side frame rail for the location for the remote trans filter. Using a cardboard template (cut from the Fram filter box) I sprayed the outline to know where to drill and tap the frame rail.
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0088.JPG
1625 hits | 66.63 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
After the frame rail is drilled and tapped, just bolt the unit to the frame and run the hoses.
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0087.JPG
2529 hits | 67.73 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
As you can see there's plenty of room to access the filter on the remote housing. It can be changed without jacking up the car. It's also low enough for the filter wrench to get a good grip of the filter, but high enough you'll have a lot more to wor...
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0080.JPG
1461 hits | 63.79 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
On my Lincoln the hot fluid comes from the trans to the higher fitting on the rad and returns via the lower rad line to the trans, somewhat cooler than before it's trip through the rad.
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0084.JPG
1700 hits | 69.16 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
Using a pipe cutter I cut the return line. After spraying penetrating fluid on the fitting, loosen it and point the pipe upward for the auxillary cooler and remote filter. When the fluid has been filtered and further cooled, return it to the trans vi...
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0539.JPG
1852 hits | 62.7 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
This is what you can get for $20 from Perma-Cool. Everybody makes a good one. This one's on my Bronco, the unit I'm installing is from Fram Racing products. Summit also makes a kit which is pretty complete and still a good deal.
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0541.JPG
1316 hits | 64.86 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
The block off plug(middle left) comes in case you you don't want to install the temp sender unit (from a $10 temp gauge).
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0558.JPG
1595 hits | 60.4 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
Here it is all sealed up with Permatex UltraCopper sealant (sensor safe). Do not use teflon tape, mine leaked and I had to do it again.
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0206.JPG
1484 hits | 76.14 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
Another shot
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0207.JPG
1473 hits | 80 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
And yet another
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0217.JPG
1483 hits | 73.66 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
Plenty of clearance everywhere
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0187.JPG
947 hits | 77.47 KB | Posted: 11/9/08
Why use a remote filter ? This is a picture of what my Brother did to one of the Mopar transmissions
(Posted in: Remote Transmission Filter)

IMG_0059.JPG
903 hits | 54.86 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
MSD coil part #8227 works wonders for mileage and performance improvements. You MUST have better than average spark plug wires and a 100% cap and rotor. Increasing the spark plug gap is also recommended.
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

IMG_0117.JPG
693 hits | 63.93 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Just a pair of 8mm bolts is all that holds the stock coil bracket in, after you've gently wiggled off the two signal wires in the harness plug. After that take it to the bench and remove the four 5.5mm bolts and swap the MSD onto the bracket and re-i...
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

IMG_0142.JPG
788 hits | 75.74 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
There's that beautiful, though very conspicuous, MSD coil up front and proud of it. Maybe a give it a shot of black paint to conceal it's identity ?
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

IMG_0039.JPG
726 hits | 34.87 KB | Posted: 8/12/05
This old stocker goes into the trunk as a spare, that's known to be good.
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

IMG_0058.JPG
692 hits | 67.62 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
Normally I prefer Taylor SpiroPros, but they were going to make me wait weeks for black wires. My dealer offered me a deal on these 9mm Ford Racing wires I just couldn't turn down. Black for that stock look under the Lincoln's hood. They're supposed ...
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0110.JPG
627 hits | 52.45 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Step one remove stock distributor cap weather condom.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0112.JPG
668 hits | 67.69 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
This reveals the stock 15 year old plug wires. Look carefully and you can see "1990" marked right on the coil wire. Another clue these are original is the non-removable heat shielding on the wires used here and there.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0113.JPG
770 hits | 54.68 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
If you've ever torn off a plug boot or terminal you'll appreciate why I always load both ends of the plug wire with dielectric grease. It stops rip-offs happening and helps promote conductivity.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0126.JPG
720 hits | 83.46 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Well routed, well seated and well seperated 9mm Ford Racing wires, ready to put a fire in the hole.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0140.JPG
1059 hits | 73.45 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Even put the distributor weather condom back on for that stock look. Might have to spray that MSD coil black to really achieve that, though the black plug wires don't draw attention IMO.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0129.JPG
725 hits | 74.48 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Look at them well run wires ! Just makes a man proud !
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

IMG_0056.JPG
649 hits | 58.59 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
I don't prefer Accel plug wires over Taylor SpiroPros, or Ford Racing Wires, but their cap does have genuine brass terminals and is a fair price.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

IMG_0112.JPG
605 hits | 67.69 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The old cap was heavily pitted and arc'd inside and thr rotor was really badly burned and worn.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

IMG_0127.JPG
640 hits | 82.34 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The MSD coil kind of steals the show from an otherwise great new cap and rotor, with brass terminals no less.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

IMG_0141.JPG
670 hits | 74.53 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
All covered up and protected for another 15 years by the stock distributor weather condom again. Helps preserve that stock, untampered with look for smog tests.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

IMG_0055.JPG
908 hits | 64.78 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
For a 1990 5.0 litre Town Car these are your Autolite plug #s (2545). I've fooled around with fancier, more expensive plugs, but frankly 5.0 litres love these plugs or Motorcraft plugs. Stock gap on a Lincoln is .050". I gap them between .055 and .0...
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0101.JPG
856 hits | 77.39 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Somewhere under that plumbing nightmare, on the passenger's side, are four plugs that need changing ! Note the previous owner's electrical tape repair on the air pump vacuum line ! Wonder how many pounds of vacuum electrical tape is good for ? Think ...
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0102.JPG
1195 hits | 72.01 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Two 3/8" mounting bracket bolts, three air pump hose clamps and two vacuum hoses disconnected and this air pump diverter valve will actually come out.
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0106.JPG
775 hits | 81.04 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The passenger's side plugs are now reasonably accessible to creative types, with plenty of tools. I don't know how I'd have got to them without removing the air pump diverter valve.
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0107.JPG
743 hits | 47.51 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The old plugs, though old, were the right colour and gapped at .047" as opposed to the recommended stock gap of .050 on a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with a 5.0 litre. I'm gapping my new Autolites at .055" because I'm using an MSD coil and decent aftermar...
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0120.JPG
792 hits | 75.87 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
All back together on the passenger's side. The driver's side took 10 minutes compared to the two hours I spent messing around on this side. Note the properly repaired air pump diverter valve vacuum hose boot ! No more vacuum leak.
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0009.JPG
787 hits | 24.26 KB | Posted: 8/24/05
This is how you get the broken plastic vacuum line out of the angled rubber vacuum boot. Just screw in a sharp drywall stud screw and pull on it and out pops the broken plastic line. Then you can slip the boot over the shorter line, no vacuum leak !
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

IMG_0020.JPG
4382 hits | 55.77 KB | Posted: 8/12/05
Help # 74410 gets you the nylon power window regulator gear plugs. At $6.00 it's a deal and you won't have to replace the original motor (if it's still making noise). For Canadians I got it at AutoParts Extra. Many jobbers stock the "Help" line thoug...
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0098.JPG
2239 hits | 43.56 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Pop the door pull handle trim covers off with a "right small" screwdriver and stash em' where you won't step on them.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0096.JPG
2035 hits | 57.54 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Off come these screws next
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0095.JPG
2574 hits | 41.93 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
After this 3 rd screw and the fourth one on the inner side are removed you just pull from the bottom and off comes the door panel.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0090.JPG
2962 hits | 44.31 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
There was NO WAY I was drilling out all those rivets and removing the entire lift framework only to have to re-string the cables and bolt in all the framework again. I just drilled three half inch holes to expose the Robertson head motor retaining bo...
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0074.JPG
2830 hits | 60.2 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
After the three bolts are out and you've unplugged the motor, just pull the motor out far enough to get at it. This way you don't have to disturb, remove or adjust the cables at all.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0071.JPG
2491 hits | 60.64 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
The motor just pulls seperate of the cable gearbox, which I did not want to mess with anyway.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0073.JPG
2359 hits | 57.58 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Now you and the motor can head to the bench, leaving the cable gearbox ALONE and untouched.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

IMG_0040.JPG
2216 hits | 68.66 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
You're not going to believe how cheap, easy and fast this is to do !
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))