HLSwBulbs.jpg
1346 hits | 39.72 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
After reading 2vModular's article, I bought these as possible replacements for the stock bulbs.

http://www.p71interceptor.com/autolamps
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw01.JPG
1346 hits | 50.66 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
The original incandescent bulbs are known to burn out quickly because they're on constantly, but not even Ford offers replacements. Only the complete switch is available.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw02.JPG
1384 hits | 47.33 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Even though it's expensive from RS, this blue LED is a better replacement because it will last indefinitely. The only drawback is that it requires a resistor to be added, and it must be installed with correct polarity to work.

http://led.linear1....
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw03.JPG
1459 hits | 54.48 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
To begin, unwrap the factory bulb's wires from the base.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw04.JPG
1125 hits | 34.24 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Straighten them out so the bulb can be removed from the plastic holder.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw05.JPG
1317 hits | 33.79 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
It was easier for me to remove the "bulb condom" with the bulb out of the holder because this one had been baked onto the bulb. But if it wasn't, it would have been easier to remove the blue filter with the bulb still in the holder.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw06.JPG
1187 hits | 35.93 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
These RS bulbs are noticeably larger than the stock ones, so even if it wasn't destroyed, the filter probably wouldn't fit over the new bulb easily.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw07.JPG
1257 hits | 22.56 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
The 5mm LED is larger, also, but it doesn't need the filter, and the lip can be shaved off.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw08.JPG
1196 hits | 32.23 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
With the lip still on the LED, the assembly is probably too long for the switch, and the leads aren't long enough.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw09.JPG
1756 hits | 33.04 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Since there's glue & heat-shrink tubing on the base of this bulb, it doesn't fit into the holder correctly, either. But its leads are slightly longer.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw10.JPG
1221 hits | 32.82 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
The bulb condom only fits because it's torn up, and the stranded leads would have to be stripped & tinned to wrap around the plastic base.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw11.JPG
1508 hits | 35.38 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Instead of using the 12V incandescent bulb, I decided to use the 3.7V LED, and a 560Ohm resistor. I removed the LED's lip & the holder's recessed end so the assembly would be about as long as stock. Then I notched the side of the holder so the resi...
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw12.JPG
1301 hits | 32 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I cut the LED's short (positive) lead & soldered it to the resistor, & soldered the cut end onto the long (negative) lead so I could wrap it around the base, too.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw13.JPG
1245 hits | 44.91 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
After getting the polarity right, it works! I could have soldered the LED & resistor directly to the board, but I like the stock look (even on something that'll never be seen).
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw14.JPG
1321 hits | 37.6 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I only bought one LED, so I could only check one position at a time. This is the old worn P71 switch that I'm getting rid of, but I'm using it just to test the bulb.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw15.JPG
1211 hits | 32.88 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I only bought one LED, so I could only check one position at a time. Later, I plan to add the red "AutoLamps Active" LED into the face of the switch. The resistor & circuit traces are present in this switch, but on some switches, the terminal is no...
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn01.JPG
1168 hits | 38.85 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
To add or remove pins from this style of connector, the white locking plate must be moved up one notch.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn02.JPG
1147 hits | 41.4 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Using a small flat screwdriver, pry one side free, and while holding upward pressure on the top white tab, rotate the screwdriver blade so it pushes that side of the plate up.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn03.JPG
1085 hits | 39.75 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Repeat for the other side so the lock plate exposes each terminal socket fully.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn04.JPG
1142 hits | 36.37 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
With the connector button on top, insert a thin-bladed screwdriver or pick into the top (rounded) of the front of the terminal socket until it contacts the locking pawl.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn05.JPG
1094 hits | 40.86 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Holding slight inward pressure, pry the pawl up.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn06.JPG
1131 hits | 29.13 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
While holding the pawl up, roll your fingertips to pull the wire out of the connector, then release the pawl & remove the screwdriver.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn07.JPG
1085 hits | 34.16 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Now, the terminal can be inserted into another similar connecotor, or a different socket in the same connector.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn08.JPG
1651 hits | 55.62 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
After a brief discussion with dRock on CVN about making the headlight switch backlighting work with the panel illumination (instead of being on all the time to burn out the bulbs), he posted this wiring diagram that identified the circuits to be modi...
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn09.JPG
1019 hits | 54.92 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
With a little effort, I was able to release the 3 wiring harness retainers & pull the harness out far enough to work on it. My hand barely fits through the h/l switch opening in the dash, but the cluster bezel can be removed for more access.

Fort...
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn10.JPG
1078 hits | 52.63 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I cut the wires at the splice, trying to leave some of the insulation & tape intact so it won't short out & blow a fuse later when it's tucked back into place. I probably should have wrapped a little tape around it, but I'll do it soon during anothe...
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn11.JPG
1032 hits | 78.64 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Cutting the 2 Wh/Pu wires far back in the dash is critical to allow enough length to do the difficult work further out where it's easier. The wire that appears bright yellow is actually the Or/Bk (pulse-width dimming) circuit.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn12.JPG
1057 hits | 76.2 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I removed a small section of insulation from the Or/Bk wire & stripped the ends of the 2 Wh/Pu. Then I used a sharp probe to split the strands of the Or/Bk wire so I could splice the Wh/Pu wires into it.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn13.JPG
1154 hits | 78.32 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
A cheap 35W soldering iron isn't quite heavy enough to tin & solder this much wire all at once, but after tinning each, I was able to join them securely.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSwConn14.JPG
1094 hits | 62.41 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
A little tape & it's finished.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

BlueLEDs.JPG
1553 hits | 14.82 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I made another one, and although they work, there's an obvious bright spot; especially for the top L one. I'll pull them out & try some different white & milky coatings to disperse the light more evenly.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

01Shoes.JPG
3930 hits | 59.5 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
My e-brake pedal had NO resistance, and when I pulled the rear rotors, I found why: the friction material is gone. Also, the drums are rusty because there was no friction material wear against them.
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

02Adjuster.JPG
3294 hits | 55.85 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
After buying new shoes (NAPA ~$25/set of 4), removing the tire, caliper, & rotor, the next step is to back off the adjuster star wheel by prying up. If it's stuck, use some pentrating oil, but don't contaminate the brakes. This releives the tension...
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

04Off.JPG
3059 hits | 54.42 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
After removing all other parts, pry the bottom of the shoe nearest the caliper toward the caliper area, then outboard to clear the lower lug. When released, the other shoe can be removed.
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

05Levers.JPG
3164 hits | 49.53 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
While the brakes & hardware are completely out of the way, clean any steel filings from the ABS sensor & tone ring, remove any heavy brake dust deposits, & apply a small amount of grease to the shoe pads on the backing plate. There are 2 pads on eac...
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

06Shoes.JPG
2919 hits | 61.46 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
Transfer the lower spring to the new shoes & replace them in the reverse order. Set the bottom of the far shoe into the notches on the lug & the lever, then work the spring & near shoe around the axle hub. Pull & pry the bottom of the near shoe ont...
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

10Drum.JPG
2737 hits | 57.42 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
Before replacing the rotors, make sure they're clean & free of rust on the friction surfaces. If necessary, have them resurfaced on a lathe, or replace them.
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

Stud.JPG
2875 hits | 82.34 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
One of my studs had been broken somehow, but enough thread was left for the nut to be installed effectively. To replace it, the e-brakes must be removed for access.
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

StudClearance.JPG
3192 hits | 48.07 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
Rotate the hub so there's ample clearance behind the stud to be removed, then drive it inward with a hammer until its splines clear the hub flange. Install a new lug stud, using a stack of washers & a lug nut to pull it into the hub flange. Torque ...
(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

E-Brake.jpg
9509 hits | 76.63 KB | Posted: 3/11/07
E-brake specs.


(Posted in: E-Brake Shoes)

Module94.JPG
2253 hits | 59.84 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
This car was built without cruise, but the wiring is all there. So I'm using this 1994 servo to add cruise to the 1999 car. All electronic servos ('92-04) are mechanically identical (Left side), but the electronic module screwed to the top of the s...
(Posted in: Cruise Control)

Module00.JPG
1578 hits | 61.72 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
I found a good module on a damaged 2000 Grand Marquis servo, so I'm installing it onto the '94 servo motor.
(Posted in: Cruise Control)

Modules.JPG
1475 hits | 67.23 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
The engineering number suggests that this module & its programming were used as early as '97.
(Posted in: Cruise Control)

Brackets.JPG
1256 hits | 37.45 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
Since servo orientation changed with intake design, I'm also swapping the '00 MGM bracket onto the '94 servo to be installed in my '99. Note that the corresponding bracket attached to the wheelwell did not change.
(Posted in: Cruise Control)

HeadlinerTwo.JPG
5648 hits | 57.6 KB | Posted: 12/6/06
I used a long gasket box in the middle to support the junk '94 headliner so I could see & drive home.
(Posted in: Headliner "Repair")