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hublockmanual95up.jpg Manual Hub Locks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it. 

These use 3 washers (15,16,17) between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place.  The previous design used a single thick splined shim.  Before that, an outside snap-ring was used at the outer end of the axle stub.  In both cases, before the small outboard snap ring (18 in this diagram) can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

Regarding part #2: I think the double-lip faces INboard (toward the diff) so that if pressure is higher OUTside the hub (deep water), the double-lip will expand slightly, forming a tighter seal against the axleshaft & spindle bearing race.  But that's just a guess.

Parts 6&7:
[url=https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72055][img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/72055/thumbnail/b55.jpg[/img][/url]
6 is [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00130J4BW]MotorCraft BRS78[/url]
7 is [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00130L5AU]MotorCraft BRS85[/url]

'80-93 Front Rotor [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5FDOQ/]MotorCraft BRR8[/url]
'79-85 Front Pads [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5DBKY/]Motorcraft BR43B[/url]
'86-93 Front Pads [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5DC30/]Motorcraft BR41B[/url]
'94-96 Front Pads [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5DBS6/]Motorcraft BR46[/url]
'94-96 Front Rotor [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5DE7O/]Motorcraft BRR56[/url]

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.

There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
 ^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
 ^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.
hublockmanual95up.jpg | Hits: 13904 | Posted on: 1/2/06 | View original size (120.09 KB)

Manual Hub Locks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These use 3 washers (15,16,17) between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. The previous design used a single thick splined shim. Before that, an outside snap-ring was used at the outer end of the axle stub. In both cases, before the small outboard snap ring (18 in this diagram) can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

Regarding part #2: I think the double-lip faces INboard (toward the diff) so that if pressure is higher OUTside the hub (deep water), the double-lip will expand slightly, forming a tighter seal against the axleshaft & spindle bearing race. But that's just a guess.

Parts 6&7:

6 is MotorCraft BRS78
7 is MotorCraft BRS85

'80-93 Front Rotor MotorCraft BRR8
'79-85 Front Pads Motorcraft BR43B
'86-93 Front Pads Motorcraft BR41B
'94-96 Front Pads Motorcraft BR46
'94-96 Front Rotor Motorcraft BRR56

Ford 8.8" axle uses 10 lug studs D6AZ-1107-A ('83-00)
Dana 44IFS uses 10 lug studs D6TZ-1107-A ('83-96)
Ford TIB axle uses 10 lug studs F4UZ-1107-A ('94-96)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.

There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.