img_0025.JPG 384 hits | 50.06 KB | Posted: 1/24/11 Help # 74410 gets you the nylon power window regulator gear plugs. At $6.00 it's a deal and you won't have to replace the original motor (if it's still making noise). For Canadians I got it at AutoParts Extra. Many jobbers stock the "Help" line thoug... (Posted in: Power window fix)
IMG_0019.JPG 468 hits | 73.1 KB | Posted: 1/21/11 Original Canadian catless from the factory Y-pipe (Posted in: New Y-pipe)
IMG_0026.JPG 505 hits | 55.98 KB | Posted: 1/21/11 Here's my pipe bending buddy building a new Y-pipe using the excellent Flowmaster Scavenger series Y section (Posted in: New Y-pipe)
IMG_0028.JPG 415 hits | 43.26 KB | Posted: 1/21/11 The Flowmaster Y section is a work of flow art and function inside (Posted in: New Y-pipe)
IMG_0036.JPG 479 hits | 78.55 KB | Posted: 1/21/11 Didn't lose a hair of ground clearance from stock and fits perfectly right down that notch in the cross frame. The Y section comes out at a full 2 1/2 inch. Well done ! (Posted in: New Y-pipe)
IMG_0040.JPG 554 hits | 68.12 KB | Posted: 1/21/11 For the sake of utility you can unbolt the back section anytime you need to. Everything is 2 1/4 inch from here back, muffler tailpipe, etc. (Posted in: New Y-pipe)
IMG_0193.JPG 973 hits | 78.18 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Low mileage but original 82 318 4bbl engine needs timing chain (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0194.JPG 689 hits | 55.89 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Possibly original 30 year old bypass hose just waiting to strand me at the side of the road. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0254.JPG 761 hits | 37.82 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Silicone lined Mopar bypass hose will probably outlast several cars, to replace original. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0203.JPG 714 hits | 75.42 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Halfway torn down, with all the belt driven accessories off it. Dirty enough for you ? Well just feast on the original paint on the left frame rail ! (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0208.JPG 706 hits | 79.53 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Taking the crank bolt out of the balancer with the visegrips holding against the two foot bar. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0216.JPG 859 hits | 94.71 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Just look at that slacker of a chain, with it's plastic cam gear still in reasonable shape. At least we know junior didn't horse it too badly. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0241.JPG 760 hits | 62.45 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Double row police/HD chain and steel gears comes with all gaskets AND.... (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0245.JPG 640 hits | 46.87 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 balancer snout repair sleeve. At almost 30 years old the balancer is bound to have a groove worn into it, by the seal. You have to buy the early style oil slinger, on the right, from Mopar separately. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0285.JPG 674 hits | 59.92 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 See that groove filled with paint, just below the repair sleeve ? Put back, without the sleeve it will allow oil past your new timing cover seal immediately. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0286.JPG 619 hits | 67.68 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Pound new repair sleeve onto balancer snout AND...... (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0287.JPG 618 hits | 58.04 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Smooth, repaired snout surface for your new TC seal to seal against. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0292.JPG 642 hits | 63.61 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Some people like the felt oil arrester to seat against their oil slinger others don't. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0281.JPG 650 hits | 51.55 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Spend the time to clean and paint the balancer and paint in the timing marks. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0279.JPG 645 hits | 38.49 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Get the timing chain cover too. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0237.JPG 695 hits | 44.08 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 A tip when re-installing the TC cover is glue the little oil pan cork corner gaskets onto the TC cover FIRST. That way they won't wander around on you during install. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0271.JPG 673 hits | 79.2 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Double row chain in place, with MP chain tensioner. See the folder marked MP chain tensioner for install. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0299.JPG 709 hits | 76.27 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Going back together. While I was there I replaced the water pump which is cheap but hard to get to later. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0306.JPG 688 hits | 66.68 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Same story on the fuel pump. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0258.JPG 839 hits | 65.19 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Cleaned off all the scunge and painted what I could reach with 70s Chrysler engine blue. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0293.JPG 724 hits | 70.12 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 I like to clean out the threaded holes by chasing them with a top in the speedy ratcheting tap handle. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0309.JPG 581 hits | 74.62 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 It may only look marginally better, but it runs incredibly smoother. Just about anything rubber got replaced, as it was 30 years old. Did this just after buying it in December 08' and it's been A-1 reliable for 40,000 miles and counting. (Posted in: Double row timing chain)
IMG_0250.JPG 762 hits | 49.2 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 MP timing chain tensioner takes all the slack out of a chain as it wears, making it perform like new and giving you a smooth, low idle, keeping your timing dead on (Posted in: Timing chain MP tensioner)
IMG_0216.JPG 772 hits | 94.71 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 There's the reason your idle is scattering. That POS single row production chain and it's PLASTIC toothed cam gear ! (Posted in: Timing chain MP tensioner)
IMG_0262.JPG 643 hits | 68.22 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 With the original chain and gears in the bin, you're ready to start the install. (Posted in: Timing chain MP tensioner)
IMG_0263.JPG 656 hits | 63.55 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Oops you're done. Yes it's just three bolts and it replaces your original thrust plate and that little pointed tang just about the crank ensures oil flows onto the new chain. (Posted in: Timing chain MP tensioner)
IMG_0276.JPG 943 hits | 68.46 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Here it is about to tension the Sealed power double row timing chain with it's STEEL cam and crank gears. Note the early style oil slinger on the crank. (Posted in: Timing chain MP tensioner)
IMG_0278.JPG 904 hits | 80.49 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 With the pin pulled it is officially on the job. The idle can be dialed down under 500 rpms and it is SO smooth people comment all the time that they've never seen an engine runs so smooth. Never a timing miss or hiccup ever again. (Posted in: Timing chain MP tensioner)
IMG_0009.JPG 639 hits | 74.56 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Looking to increase compression on the 82 4bbl engine, which was barely 8.0:1. These 88' 302 castings should take us up to 8.9:1 no trouble and help mileage and performance, while still running on 87 octane (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
IMG_0013.JPG 636 hits | 65.65 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Not wanting to borrow the valve spring compressor twice I'm removing the valve spring retainers/clips the old fashioned, dangerous way. Put the socket down and flip the head on top so the valves are against the socket. (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
IMG_0016.JPG 615 hits | 71.25 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Grasp the 13/16 inch deep impact socket and WHACK it with the rubber mallet. You're wearing eye protection and listening intently for where the clip lands, if it escapes your socket. (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1318.JPG 704 hits | 52.82 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 After a whack or three the first clip usually pops out (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1319.JPG 781 hits | 55.48 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 One clip remaining, watch your eyes and keep your safety glasses on and hit it again (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1321.JPG 810 hits | 40.75 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 There's the other clip, a little out out of focus. The deep socket usually captures the clip no trouble (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1323.JPG 692 hits | 49.32 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 There's the ages old original Mopar valve seals. The intake closest to us, the exhaust furthest away. Clean and/or file the edge off the sides of the top of the valve stem before pulling it through the guide so you don't score the guide. (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1326.JPG 993 hits | 51.42 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Exhaust valves were not that badly carboned up (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1327.JPG 923 hits | 52.07 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 They cleaned up well with second or two on the wire brush (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1328.JPG 928 hits | 59.96 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Intake valves were pretty coked up alright. (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1330.JPG 679 hits | 59.49 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 Intakes cleaned up fine too, with just a bit more time. (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
DSCF1334.JPG 636 hits | 56.52 KB | Posted: 1/20/11 This intake valve concerned me. It wasn't loose in the guide so I'm assuming it was a dead plug or spark plug wire. (Posted in: High swirl "302" heads)
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