IMG_0149.JPG
858 hits | 59.12 KB | Posted: 5/8/10
(Posted in: Misc)

IMG_0043.JPG
948 hits | 64.52 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
This is the much fabled SPOUT valve that you disconnect before setting the base timing. Pull the little greay part out of the harness.
(Posted in: SPOUT valve)

IMG_0011.JPG
1375 hits | 55.83 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
This is the height sensor. One or both ends start to jump off the ball studs it attaches to. This tells the comprssor to go on strike and you're riding around arse down until you fix it.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0027.JPG
1398 hits | 50.23 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
One ball stud is bracketed onto the axle and the other is on the frame. They get dirty and rusty too. These are the studs the height sensor jumps off, disabling your compressor until the height sensor is stuck back on.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0005.JPG
1120 hits | 49.51 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Here's the upper socket that pushes onto the ball stud. The shiny spring is supposed to keep pressure on the ball and keep it from jumping out/off the stud.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1118 hits | 46.71 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Here's the backview of the socket. In theory you're meant to deperss the spring with your thumbnail and allow the other side to click onto the ball stud.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0014.JPG
1129 hits | 39.97 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Like anything set into plastic, the metal spring has a detent to allow removal of the spring. I used a tiny screwdriver to depress the tang/detent and the spring pushed out no trouble.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0020.JPG
1044 hits | 34.97 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Once out you can see the cupped shaped part of the spring that is supposed to hold the ball stud in place (the rusty part).

(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0018.JPG
1107 hits | 39.38 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Once out the spring is helpless to your will. I stretched the spring apart to put some life/spring back into it. It goes back into the plastic even more easily than it came out.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1785 hits | 56.94 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Okay so I'm not the most trusting backyard mechanic. I tie-wrapped the crap out of it, even though it felt much tighter with the newly stretched spring and everything cleaned up.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0204.JPG
1471 hits | 51.2 KB | Posted: 3/28/06
The ultimate solution ! Drilled through the ball stud and threaded it to 1/4-UNC-20 and spun it out to 3/4" away from bracket. The two lock nuts allow plenty of articulation and the lock washers won't let it jump off the ball. DONE !
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

IMG_0201.JPG
1086 hits | 63.7 KB | Posted: 3/28/06
Started drilling out the ball. Went all the way out to 1/4 UNC-20 so only the ball is left with internal threads to allow spinning it onto the 1/4" stud.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

p144335_large+1999_ford_crown_victoria_sedan+undercarriage.jpg
2089 hits | 67.3 KB | Posted: 8/3/06
This is a pic of a CV with Impala SS tailpipes. I want one 2 1/2" mandrel bent one, to which I'll add the missing 30" instead of the resonator they've added. I like their turn down ends though.
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

wlk-54016_w.jpg
864 hits | 6.21 KB | Posted: 3/17/07
Walker 54016 gets you a mandrel bent 2 1/2" Dynomax tailpipe for the Impala SS. This just so happens to pass over the axle perfectly. From there to the back bumper you're on your own, but it's just straight pipe required and maybe a turndown or ricer...
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

IMG_0039.JPG
569 hits | 32.85 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
Here's the Dynomax 2 1/2" mandrel bent Impala SS tailpipe, in the flesh so to speak. The bends are virtually identical to a panther's tailpipe bends.
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

IMG_0038.JPG
498 hits | 38.95 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
The big difference from our replacement panther tailpipes is this pipe is fully 2 1/2" and mandrel bent. Ours are 2" with kinks EVERYWHERE. According to the exhaust chart stepping up from 2" to 2.5" makes for a 56% flow capacity increase ! That's not...
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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758 hits | 40.22 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
It's worth noting that CV in the first pic is using stock Chevy 2 1/4" tailpipes. Probably didn't know about Dynomax units that were 2 1/2" and mandrel bent. Can you see what I'm up to yet ?
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

IMG_0035.JPG
519 hits | 40.88 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
The tailpipe gets us over the axle, around the airbag/coil spring and clears everything BUT... you need @ 22" of straight pipe and turn down to make it to the bumper. This is a 3" mandrel bent turn down and a 2 1/2" to 3" reducer, which should fill t...
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

IMG_0018.JPG
715 hits | 47.24 KB | Posted: 9/17/07
Plenty of clearance around the airbag and the tank
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

IMG_0019.JPG
626 hits | 41.73 KB | Posted: 9/17/07
Slightly better close up
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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691 hits | 27.03 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
These brale/fuel line clips are for the 1990 Town Car. Almost all mine were so brittle they busted apart upon removal.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

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586 hits | 27.25 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
Another view of the clip. The two inner grooves take the brake lines and the outers take the fuel and vapour return lines.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

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638 hits | 24.35 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
There's the part number, but forget about it, they're no longer available. These run along the driver's frame rail, but you're guaranteed to get one good one off each junker if you reach under the master cylinder.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

IMG_0053.JPG
659 hits | 37.5 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
These are the newer clips(off a 96 CV), which I hope will work for me. They seem to hold a pile more lines and hoses and keep the far away from the rusty frame rail.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

IMG_0054.JPG
507 hits | 33.85 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
The old stock 90' bolts may be a bit short, so I'll try the longer 96' bolts, though they don't look like the same thread. Otherwise I'll counterbore the new clips to recess the shorter bolts.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

IMG_0055.JPG
461 hits | 52.91 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
May not look like much, but those 4 door pull trim cover tabs are GOLD ! all on their own. I also scored some much needed brake/fuel line hold down clips, an airbox hose connector (I aim to modify) and my driver's door panel speaker cover (which I've...
(Posted in: August 4th)

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602 hits | 54.68 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
The space between the rad and the sheet metal bulkhead is almost big enough to allow a fresh air tube through as is. The hole to the left is where the tiny stock plastic "trumpet" passes through to suck air from behind the headlight.
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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543 hits | 49.95 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Everything below the white (clean) line on a slant is where the available airbox will accept the fresh air tube later. Note the already rusted and busted front airbox mount. The rubber isolator always pulls loose of the mount anyway.
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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536 hits | 57.54 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Speak of the devil, there's the busted isolation mount still attached to the tab I just sawed off.
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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494 hits | 47.94 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Sawing off the isolator mount tab is neither rocket science or difficult.
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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493 hits | 65.16 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Leaving you with a bit of tab left to get rid of.
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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520 hits | 63.09 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Getting rid of the remainder of the tab is fairly easy
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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501 hits | 51.79 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Smooth enough for our purposes
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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583 hits | 54.32 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Good old cardboard template mocked up with scissors.
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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562 hits | 48 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Transferred to mild (easy to work with)1/8" plate steel
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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534 hits | 65.59 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Plate ready to accept tubing (once a hole is cut into it).The small hole in the airbox is the drain hole (remember this is the bottom of the airbox so "it" is upside down in the pic).
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

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554 hits | 67.35 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
Getting the idea yet ?
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

IMG_0039.JPG
582 hits | 71.41 KB | Posted: 8/6/06
A little Sawzall work (see the cut out piece of sheetmetal on top of the support) and there's some room. Yes heathens, that is a 3" pipe passing through to the boxed area behind the grill. Probably end up using smaller pipe though. Didn't even have t...
(Posted in: Initial measurements & mods)

IMG_0208.JPG
445 hits | 68.14 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
These drain plugs do anything BUT drain. They seem to rust out and defeat the silicone that's suppose to be sealing them off. After that water is allowed INTO the truck because of them.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

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504 hits | 52.23 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
After a bit of grinding and hitting the metal with a metal preservative to slow the rust down.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

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454 hits | 65.85 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
I know it's not for cars but I just can't resist using the PL400 contruction adhesive to permanently glue down and seal off the access panels.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

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451 hits | 61.34 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
A little saran wrap allows you to slap the newly cleaned carpets back in before the sealant is completely dried. I did the access holes under the seats when I pulled the main in-car carpets as well. Car's a lot drier for it.
(Posted in: Trunk sealing)

IMG_0242.JPG
424 hits | 86.58 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
Pop these plastic plugs out from the sides (four) and the rear just under the weatherseal (four mo') .
(Posted in: Trunk carpet removal)

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483 hits | 40.99 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
Not exactly rocket science and made even easier with a pry tool.
(Posted in: Trunk carpet removal)

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562 hits | 60 KB | Posted: 9/17/06
Out comes rug and then the top rug (still in pic)
(Posted in: Trunk carpet removal)