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651 hits | 63.93 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Just a pair of 8mm bolts is all that holds the stock coil bracket in, after you've gently wiggled off the two signal wires in the harness plug. After that take it to the bench and remove the four 5.5mm bolts and swap the MSD onto the bracket and re-i...
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

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742 hits | 75.74 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
There's that beautiful, though very conspicuous, MSD coil up front and proud of it. Maybe a give it a shot of black paint to conceal it's identity ?
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

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675 hits | 34.87 KB | Posted: 8/12/05
This old stocker goes into the trunk as a spare, that's known to be good.
(Posted in: MSD Coil)

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636 hits | 67.62 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
Normally I prefer Taylor SpiroPros, but they were going to make me wait weeks for black wires. My dealer offered me a deal on these 9mm Ford Racing wires I just couldn't turn down. Black for that stock look under the Lincoln's hood. They're supposed ...
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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581 hits | 52.45 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Step one remove stock distributor cap weather condom.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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623 hits | 67.69 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
This reveals the stock 15 year old plug wires. Look carefully and you can see "1990" marked right on the coil wire. Another clue these are original is the non-removable heat shielding on the wires used here and there.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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713 hits | 54.68 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
If you've ever torn off a plug boot or terminal you'll appreciate why I always load both ends of the plug wire with dielectric grease. It stops rip-offs happening and helps promote conductivity.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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673 hits | 83.46 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Well routed, well seated and well seperated 9mm Ford Racing wires, ready to put a fire in the hole.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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999 hits | 73.45 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Even put the distributor weather condom back on for that stock look. Might have to spray that MSD coil black to really achieve that, though the black plug wires don't draw attention IMO.
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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669 hits | 74.48 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Look at them well run wires ! Just makes a man proud !
(Posted in: Ford Racing 9mm Spiral Core wires)

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599 hits | 58.59 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
I don't prefer Accel plug wires over Taylor SpiroPros, or Ford Racing Wires, but their cap does have genuine brass terminals and is a fair price.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

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558 hits | 67.69 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The old cap was heavily pitted and arc'd inside and thr rotor was really badly burned and worn.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

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595 hits | 82.34 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The MSD coil kind of steals the show from an otherwise great new cap and rotor, with brass terminals no less.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

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626 hits | 74.53 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
All covered up and protected for another 15 years by the stock distributor weather condom again. Helps preserve that stock, untampered with look for smog tests.
(Posted in: Accel Cap & Rotor (brass))

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851 hits | 64.78 KB | Posted: 8/6/05
For a 1990 5.0 litre Town Car these are your Autolite plug #s (2545). I've fooled around with fancier, more expensive plugs, but frankly 5.0 litres love these plugs or Motorcraft plugs. Stock gap on a Lincoln is .050". I gap them between .055 and .0...
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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808 hits | 77.39 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Somewhere under that plumbing nightmare, on the passenger's side, are four plugs that need changing ! Note the previous owner's electrical tape repair on the air pump vacuum line ! Wonder how many pounds of vacuum electrical tape is good for ? Think ...
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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1080 hits | 72.01 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
Two 3/8" mounting bracket bolts, three air pump hose clamps and two vacuum hoses disconnected and this air pump diverter valve will actually come out.
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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728 hits | 81.04 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The passenger's side plugs are now reasonably accessible to creative types, with plenty of tools. I don't know how I'd have got to them without removing the air pump diverter valve.
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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692 hits | 47.51 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
The old plugs, though old, were the right colour and gapped at .047" as opposed to the recommended stock gap of .050 on a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with a 5.0 litre. I'm gapping my new Autolites at .055" because I'm using an MSD coil and decent aftermar...
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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749 hits | 75.87 KB | Posted: 8/8/05
All back together on the passenger's side. The driver's side took 10 minutes compared to the two hours I spent messing around on this side. Note the properly repaired air pump diverter valve vacuum hose boot ! No more vacuum leak.
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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746 hits | 24.26 KB | Posted: 8/24/05
This is how you get the broken plastic vacuum line out of the angled rubber vacuum boot. Just screw in a sharp drywall stud screw and pull on it and out pops the broken plastic line. Then you can slip the boot over the shorter line, no vacuum leak !
(Posted in: The Cheapest Autolite plugs money can buy)

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4281 hits | 55.77 KB | Posted: 8/12/05
Help # 74410 gets you the nylon power window regulator gear plugs. At $6.00 it's a deal and you won't have to replace the original motor (if it's still making noise). For Canadians I got it at AutoParts Extra. Many jobbers stock the "Help" line thoug...
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2180 hits | 43.56 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Pop the door pull handle trim covers off with a "right small" screwdriver and stash em' where you won't step on them.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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1983 hits | 57.54 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Off come these screws next
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2502 hits | 41.93 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
After this 3 rd screw and the fourth one on the inner side are removed you just pull from the bottom and off comes the door panel.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2884 hits | 44.31 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
There was NO WAY I was drilling out all those rivets and removing the entire lift framework only to have to re-string the cables and bolt in all the framework again. I just drilled three half inch holes to expose the Robertson head motor retaining bo...
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2759 hits | 60.2 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
After the three bolts are out and you've unplugged the motor, just pull the motor out far enough to get at it. This way you don't have to disturb, remove or adjust the cables at all.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2431 hits | 60.64 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
The motor just pulls seperate of the cable gearbox, which I did not want to mess with anyway.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2301 hits | 57.58 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Now you and the motor can head to the bench, leaving the cable gearbox ALONE and untouched.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2157 hits | 68.66 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
You're not going to believe how cheap, easy and fast this is to do !
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2089 hits | 64.04 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Out comes one philips screw
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2051 hits | 64.56 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Everything looks normal so far
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2012 hits | 58.76 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Just to be safe I index marked the gear with the case, to help reassembly.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2004 hits | 67.09 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
In case anything moves I'll have a reference point to go by.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2619 hits | 65.3 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
With the center gear off (behind motor housing on bench) you can see those little nylon gear plugs have been crushed alright.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2515 hits | 59.17 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
The new ones at the rear of the photo against the crushed originals closer to you.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2082 hits | 67.84 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Here's a shot of the empty gear casing.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2241 hits | 71.5 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
I pre-sprayed the housing with motorcycle chain lube before dropping in the new nylon gear plugs
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2566 hits | 62.78 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
That's all there really is to the gearbox insides. Not really a bad system especially considering how cheap, fast and easy the plugs are to change
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2177 hits | 66.32 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
After slapping plenty of synthetic grease onto the top gear, It's pushed back on the shaft indexed to those earlier marks.
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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2182 hits | 69.06 KB | Posted: 8/13/05
Put the cover and one screw back on and bolt it back onto the cable gearbox through the new holes in the inner door and you're ready for another 15 years service !
(Posted in: Power window repair (rear))

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580 hits | 75.54 KB | Posted: 8/12/05
Man was this worth pulling in for ! Almost drove by a country junkyard today. Pulled in and they had two complete, just in, 1990 Town Cars. Scored the working power antenna, the front plate holder, all four AutoVentShades AND a stain free trunk carpe...
(Posted in: August 12th)

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1173 hits | 49.53 KB | Posted: 8/12/05
This is all you need for a drain plug for the old AOD transmission pan. That and a drill and a friend who can weld.
(Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)

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785 hits | 69.89 KB | Posted: 8/24/05
First drill a pilot hole then drill it out to 1/2" and de-burr the hole. Why did I decide to drill right there ?
(Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)

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754 hits | 65.09 KB | Posted: 8/24/05
Not only was I copying the Ford Racing pan's bolt location, but where my finger is pointing is the only fairly deep "well" area that the drain bolt won't interfere with anything.
(Posted in: AOD drain pan bolt)