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This spanner socket will start to slip off of the locking nut once you pass 100 ft lbs or so of torque. I even had someone else handling the torque wrench while I used both hands to hold the socket onto the nut. The torque action kept causing the socket to slip off and created lots of frustration for me. I needed a bushing of sorts to keep the socket square on the locking nut.
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See all of the space around the nut.
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I measured the inside diameter of the hub at the point where the end of the splines begin.
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I then measured the outside diameter of the spanner socket.
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I bought this circle cutter at HF for $5.
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Here it is chucked into the drill. The packaging has no listed specifications of the tool so I can not verify maximum recommended RPM. Just make sure that the cutters are spaced as close as possible to exact to minimize eccentric movement. You can get good cutting action at about 500 RPM.
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You can use wood to make the bushing but I would avoid plywood because the little splinters could get up in the hub and cause problems. I chose to use this cutting board made of nylon like plastic.
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Cut your outer dimension first (inside diameter of hub).
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Then cut your inner dimension (outside diameter of spanner socket). The cheap little circle cutter produced a cool littler chamfer (about 45°) on the outside of the bushing which made it fit really, really nice in the hub. The inside cut was more or less straight because I had to hold it in a vise. I got it right on the first try and had to cut only one bushing.
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It fit quite nicely onto the spanner socket. I used a cheap $20 6” digital caliper from HF. I’m not making parts for the Space Shuttle.
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Fit the spanner socket onto the locking nut and tuck the bushing in.
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Use your ratchet to tighten then torque to specification.
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Dada gets a thumb up from Sarah for a job well done.
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