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Diag Dice.jpg | Hits: 32 | Size: 42.92 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Buying these would be money better-spent than guessing - at least these provide some entertainment, and you actually HAVE them forever.

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FrameVIN96.jpg | Hits: 1439 | Size: 62.24 KB | Posted on: 10/12/18 | Link to this image


Rear frame Serial Number (last 8 digits of the VIN) on a '96 Bronco
There's another numeral & an asterisk at the end, but they're pin-printed too lightly to show.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This truck was exceptionally clean, and the body was removed, and the frame was pressure-washed a few times, and this SN was still very hard to find & read on top of the passenger frame rail just forward of the 3rd body mount.

There's another just forward of the 2nd mount, about under the firewall.

See also:
. .

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Hayneses.jpg | Hits: 25594 | Size: 24.52 KB | Posted on: 10/28/06 | Link to this image


This red one is a VERY old edition (#880), perfect for '80-86 trucks. It includes many older diagrams not found in later editions. For '87-96 trucks, a red cover that goes to '96 (also here), or an EARLY blue cover (as shown #36058 ) would be much better because they contain much more info about EFIs, including superior wiring diagrams.

Unfortunately, the LATEST blue-cover edition has deleted much of this info, and its wiring diagrams aren't worth having, except as a crutch until you can find one of the older editions. Even worse: there's NO difference on the cover, so the only way to tell which version a blue cover is would be to OPEN the book & look at the wiring diagrams. If you're communicating with an eBay (or other online) seller, ask him what's on page 12-63. If he says it's '92-later F/Bronco diagram 13 of 13, that's the version you want. If he says it doesn't HAVE a page with that number... The later version (with crappy wiring diagrams) ends at p.12-54, which is followed by a glossary of engine rebuilding terms.

These manuals are often available on eBay for less than $10 shipped, but make sure you're bidding on (or buying) the edition you really want. All the blue covers are 80-96 so they're very hard to distinguish, but there are MANY red covers. To see what's available right now, click this. These are the driver checklist & maintenance schedule that apply to most of these trucks:

.

If you don't have an owner guide, download the '96 or '97 PDF free from Ford.

Newest edition (with crappy wiring diagrams) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1563922134/

These Ford disk images can be mounted to a virtual drive, and installed to a HDD partition with its own drive letter for use without burning an actual disk, but having the disk is a worthwhile safety net, in case of HDD failure or infection. For instructions on installation & use:


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RS22-172DMM.jpg | Hits: 4922 | Size: 59.55 KB | Posted on: 2/1/16 | Link to this image


Radio Shack 22-172 (Model 2200172, UPC 040293278861) True-RMS Digital Multimeter with high-current AC/DC clamp

There are MANY better brands & meters available, but for what it does, this one is surprisingly affordable. Particularly: True-RMS ACV & Hz, and inductive 800DCA clamp.



Since this meter has been out of production for many years, and RS is out of bidness; if you can't find one of these, don't be surprised. Just shop Amazon/eBay/etc. for something similar. The big inductive clamps on top aren't necessary for most automotive work, but this meter has them:



These pierce probes are expensive, but good accessories to go with any DMM:



Alternatively, common stickpins can be used; but don't allow them to short to each other, or to any other wire or grounded metal. These are cheap backprobes that can also pierce.

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AutelAL309.jpg | Hits: 8003 | Size: 61.99 KB | Posted on: 6/18/09 | Link to this image


Autel.us AutoLink AL309



For under $30, this reads & clears OBD-II codes ('96-up), and displays PIDs (live data) & freeze-frame data. It's also USB-updatable free. Click the pic below for the Amazon page:



This is a cheaper one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PR9PTKD

These are much more-functional for later vehicles when used with an app, or application (on a laptop) like ForScan (which can adjust most Ford parameters & also read Ford diesel codes):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077F8F6TB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081VQVD3F

For code info, see:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/



OBD II Drive Cycle
The engine must be warmed up and at operating temperature before proceeding with the drive modes of the following OBD II Drive Cycle.

1. Start the engine. Drive or idle (in neutral) the vehicle for 4 minutes.
2. Idle the vehicle in drive (neutral for manual transmission) for 40 seconds.
3. Accelerate the vehicle to 45 mph (72 km/h) at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for 10 seconds.
4. Drive the vehicle with a steady throttle at 45 mph (72 km/h) for 30 seconds.
5. Idle the vehicle in drive (neutral for manual transmissions) for 40 seconds.
6. Continue to drive the vehicle in city traffic at speeds between 25 and 40 mph
(40-64 km/h) for 15 minutes. During the 15 minute drive cycle the following modes must be achieved:
-a. at least 5 stop and idle modes at 10 seconds each
-b. acceleration from idles at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle position, and
-c. choose 3 different speeds to do 1.5 minute steady state throttle drives.
7. Accelerate the vehicle up to between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h). This should take approximately 5 minutes.
8. Drive vehicle and hold the throttle steady at the selected speed between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h) for approximately 5 minutes.
9. Drive the vehicle for 5 minutes at varying speeds between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h).
10. Bring the vehicle back to idle. Idle in drive for 40 seconds.
11. OBD II drive cycle has been completed. Vehicle can be turned off when convenient.

'84-95 w/EEC-IV use this DLC:


__________________________________________
Although written for older EECs, the following TSB may be helpful for some early EEC-V (OBD-II) applications:
__________________________________________

TSB 92-24-03 Explanation of 3-Digit Codes & MIL

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 18, 1992

FORD: 1991-93 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, PROBE, TAURUS, TEMPO, THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1991-92 MARK VII
1991-93 CONTINENTAL, COUGAR, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOPAZ, TOWN CAR, TRACER
1993 MARK VIII
LIGHT TRUCK: 1991-93 AEROSTAR, BRONCO, ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, F-150-350 SERIES, RANGER

ISSUE: Occasionally, there are reports of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Check Engine" Lamp (CEL) or "Service Engine Soon" (SES) lamp being lit with no Self-Test codes in Continuous Memory. An explanation of three digit EEC IV Self-Test Codes has been developed along with reasons for the MIL lamp being lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.

ACTION: Refer to the following explanation of three digit EEC IV Self Test Codes to determine why the MIL lamp is sometimes lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.


OVERVIEW OF THREE DIGIT EEC IV SELF-TEST CODES

Ford went from two digit to three digit EEC IV Self-Test codes in 1991 to service the increasing number of service codes required to support various government On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) regulations. The phase-in from two digit to three digit codes started in the 1991 model year and is largely complete except for some medium/heavy trucks that will retain two digit codes through the 1994 model year.

MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

Following is a list of reasons why a technician may see the MIL lamp lit with no accompanying Continuous Memory Self-Test codes.

1) Technician Not Familiar With Self-Test Code Output
There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and Key On Engine Running (KOER). While both of these will test for various "hard faults" that are present when the test is run, the processor continuously monitors various operating parameters whenever the engine is running. If the processor detects a problem, it will store a "Continuous Memory" code and light the MIL. These Continuous Memory codes are put out during KOEO Self-Test after any codes associated with hard faults are output.

Self-Test Codes are displayed by flashing the MIL. They are also output as voltage pulses on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit in the Self-Test connector. In either Self-Test mode, all codes are output twice and in KOEO, the hard fault codes are separated from the Continuous Memory codes by a "separator" pulse.

A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (lll) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (lll) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes.

2) Inadvertent Erasure Of Continuous Memory Self-Test Codes
Continuous Memory Self-Test codes are erased by ungrounding STI before KOEO Self-Test is complete and all KOEO and Continuous Memory codes have been displayed. It is possible to inadvertently erase Continuous Memory codes by ungrounding STI without realizing that KOEO Self-Test is not complete or the processor has not finished displaying all the codes.

The EEC Self-Test codes are not only used by service technicians, they are used as a final system test in the assembly plants. To make this test as efficient as possible, Self-Test codes are output as a very fast, short pulsewidth signal before the codes are displayed by the flashing MIL. These "FAST" codes can only be interpreted by end-of-line equipment or code-reading testers like Ford's Self-Test Automatic Readout (STAR) testers.

The EEC IV processor puts out both 2-digit and 3-digit Self-Test codes in both formats, "FAST" pulsewidth mode and "SLOW" pulsewidth mode. While all "STAR" type testers display 2-digit codes, the original STAR tester cannot display 3-digit service codes. If the STAR tester is used on 3-digit service code applications, the display will be blank but the tester will beep. The beeps can be counted to determine service codes. The SUPER STAR II tester will only display 3-digit service codes in "FAST" code mode. If slow code mode is used on 3-digit service code applications, the display will be blank but the tester will beep. The beeps can be counted to determine service codes. For more information on running Self-Test, refer to the "EEC IV Quick Test Procedures and Appendix" section of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Service Manual.

Since certain STAR testers are capable of reading and displaying fast codes before the slow codes are finished being output on the MIL, a technician can assume that since he sees codes displayed, he can unground STI and move on. If he ungrounds STI before all slow codes are output, Continuous Memory will be erased and could put out a pass code (ll/lll) the next time KOEO Self-Test is run. The technician may also realize that his tester is in "SLOW" mode after he has initiated the KOEO test and stop the test to change tester settings. Another possibility is that another person, a vehicle owner or another technician, could have erased the codes before the technician reporting the situation has run Self-Test. In any of these situations, the vehicle must be driven until the Continuous Memory codes are reset.

3) The Concern That Set The Continuous Memory Code Is No Longer Present
The EEC processor will erase a Continuous Memory code if the concern that caused it has not been present for 40 or 80 warm-up cycles, depending on the vehicle. A warm-up cycle occurs when the vehicle is started with the coolant temperature below 120%uFFFD F (49%uFFFD C) and then shutdown with the coolant temperature above 150%uFFFD F (66%uFFFD C). If a vehicle is brought in for service with a MIL complaint and the vehicle is driven or otherwise allowed to warm-up before Self-Test is run, the code may be cleared before the technician tests it.

4) Grounded STO/MIL Circuit
The processor controls the MIL by grounding the STO/MIL circuit (Pin 17). If this circuit shorts to ground, whether the processor is controlling it or not, the MIL will be lit. Starting in 1991, if the processor has lit the MIL, it will hold it on for a minimum of 10 seconds. If the MIL flashes quickly, the concern is probably the STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground.

5) Engine Running In HLOS
The EEC processor will enter Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) if it detects a problem that could cause further damage to the system. Under HLOS, the processor modifies its operating strategy so that certain functions are disabled but the vehicle can be safely driven in for service. If the vehicle is in HLOS, Continuous Memory codes will not be set and Self-Test cannot be initiated. However, Continuous codes that were set before the processor entered HLOS will be retained.

6) Misinterpretation Of MIL Bulb Check
The MIL will light as a bulb check if the key is on and the engine is not running. If the engine is running and stalls or stops for any reason with the key on, the MIL will be lit and no Continuous Memory codes will be set. When the key is first turned on, the MIL will stay lit briefly after the engine is started as part of the bulb check feature.

7) MIL Flashes During Self-Test
The circuit that controls the MIL is also the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit that goes to the Self-Test connector. The MIL will flash during Self-Test as the STO circuit is cycled on and off. This is normal and no Continuous codes are set.

8 ) Processor KAM Is Erased Or Fails
The Keep Alive Memory (KAM) within the processor must always have voltage supplied to it. This voltage is supplied by the Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) circuit (Pin 1) that connects directly to the battery. KAM contains adaptive parameter tables that allow the processor to adapt to different operating requirements. It also contains the Continuous Memory codes. Continuous Memory codes will be erased any time KAPWR is disconnected (i.e. battery disconnected, processor disconnected, breakout box installed, open in the wire, etc.). If KAM fails within the processor, all Continuous codes will also be erased.

9) Damaged STAR Tester
A damaged STAR tester can produce erroneous code output or accidentally erase Continuous Memory.

10) KOEO Processor RAM Test Failed
The processor's Random Access Memory (RAM) is tested during KOEO Self-Test. If the processor's RAM has failed, the MIL will light and no codes are output.

11) Intermittent VSS Fault Detected In Wiggle Mode
If in wiggle mode (STI grounded) and an intermittent Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) fault is detected, the MIL can be lit momentarily. If the VSS signal returns to normal, the associated code is erased. In normal operation, the VSS will not light the MIL.

12) IDM Pulsewidth Not Recognized By Processor (EDIS Vehicles)
EDIS vehicles can have the MIL on with no Continuous codes if the processor does not recognize the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) pulsewidth. In this case, coil pack failure codes may not be set since the fault filters can be erased before they reach the threshold that sets the code.

13) Intermittent Ignition System Fault
Vehicles with a Cylinder Identification (CID) sensor can light the MIL with no Continuous codes present if an intermittent ignition system fault is present long enough to activate the MIL and then goes away. The CID sensor can indicate that the fault was momentary and clear the coil pack faults but the CID fault may not register if the fault goes away fast enough.

14) Intermittent Open STI Circuit
If the Self-Test Input (STI) circuit opened during KOEO Self-Test or code output, Continuous Memory would be cleared.

15) Power Lost To EEC Processor
On some applications, the processor can lose power while the MIL stays powered. The MIL can light if a ground path is present through the processor.

16) Other Warning Lamps Mistaken For MIL
The MIL can sometimes be confused with other warning lamps like the amber Air Bag lamp if they are located near each other in the dash panel.

17) Development Testing Or Wrong Processor Released To Production
The MIL can be lit without Continuous codes during testing or if the wrong processor is installed.

SUPERSEDES: 92-4-4
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

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Midtronics high-frequency testers (with the LCD screen & 5 buttons down the right side) are the industry standard for battery testers, and most dealerships (of most makes) are required to use them for warranty returns. I have this model with the built-in printer, but no alternator diagnostics.

https://www.midtronics.com/testers/mdx-p300/

Load testing is not recommended or accepted by Ford.



Before buying a craptasmic battery or other common part, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

. . . . .

This battery tester is not a multimeter, and even the best DMM can't do what the tester does. But if you need a decent meter, consider this one, or one with most of its features:



For more info, see http://www.batteryfaq.org/

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Tape.JPG | Hits: 4164 | Size: 59.42 KB | Posted on: 9/27/11 | Link to this image


Polyken Wiring Harness Tape
Polyken Wiring Harness Tape

It's amazing how much better this stuff is than common PVC electrical tape - maybe even good enough to justify the cost! I'm addicted. I can barely bring myself to pick up a roll of the cheap crap, even for stuff like lawn mowers.

Although it's not technically an electrical tape, I use it that way because it's so much better. It never unravels or turns slimy or hardens. And in my mind, that makes it superior to any tape that falls off, exposing wires to shorts. This is NOT friction tape, or PVC tape, or cloth tape (although it has fibers in it), and it IS adhesive. It's flame-retardant and heat- & chemical-resistant, UV-stabilized, and made in USA.

****************************************

The 2nd batch I ordered came in around $3/roll after shipping, but it's getting harder to find.

***************************************

European-style woven harness tape

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AmpWire.jpg | Hits: 456 | Size: 70.29 KB | Posted on: 12/28/21 | Link to this image


Amp Wire Routing for '80-96 Broncos & F-series (& '97 >8500GVWR)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This job seems to be more difficult for many people than it should be. I've seen a wide variety of attempts at it - most of which are fire hazards. In this truck, there was a ~5/16" hole drilled through the firewall below the HVAC box and a nylon bushing inserted forward of the black firewall insulation pad above the passenger footwell. Then the wire ran under the carpet to the conduit under the threshold, and out of the seat belt reel cover across the cargo floor to the sub box where the amp was attached. It worked, but it was subject to wear under the carpet, and being pinched in a wreck. So I plugged that hole and re-routed the cable better, mostly along Ford's harness sections.
1) A long Phillips screwdriver is a good way to puncture the rubber grommet with very little risk of damaging anything else (especially wires). This one is much longer than necessary, but it's easier to show. A bit of silicone grease on the tip makes it easier to puncture the molded rubber.
2) & 3) Inserted in this direction, the screwdriver is aimed at the large recirculate hole in the firewall where the factory wiring passes through.
4) I temporarily crimped the end of the wire into this short piece of flexible Copper tubing which I'm using like a needle pulling thread.
5) After the wire began through the grommet, I added some soapy water to the grommet's well to make pulling the wire easier.
6) It's easy then to follow the factory wiring path, occasionally wrapping the cable so it stays put. I pulled it up through the B-pillar like the factory rear speaker wires and across the RHR wheelwell. I may add a terminal block later to make it easier to connect several accessories like an amp, inverter, or anything else that won't overload the wire.
7) The wire is routed through the fender to keep it away from the hood prop and tire-changing tools. It's also a good place to keep the fuse holder from being damaged.

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HarnessBronco.jpg | Hits: 2815 | Size: 130.84 KB | Posted on: 10/13/14 | Link to this image


'93 Bronco XLT 5.8L E4OD Wiring Harness Sections
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The 8 missing sections are:
- engine
- injector
- transmission
- frame
- cigar/power point
- sliding contact (horn pad connection)
- camper/CHMSL
- trailer socket

'92 does not have 4WABS on the engine harness, and has a 2G alternator
'94-96 have a clock spring instead of sliding contact, and optionally add RKE/Theft(exc.'96) to the main/floor/doors, &/or overhead console
'96 adds OBD-II to the engine bay, engine, injector, & dash harnesses

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness93XLTdash.JPG | Hits: 8926 | Size: 111.16 KB | Posted on: 2/12/12 | Link to this image


Dash Harness from '93 Bronco XLT
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



'94-96 Broncos have much larger versions of C200 & C229 for the overhead console (which takes out of the floor harness), RKE, & Theft systems.

That's the BEFORE pic... This is DURING:



See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness96Dash..JPG | Hits: 11895 | Size: 77.8 KB | Posted on: 8/8/07 | Link to this image


STRIPPED Dash Harness from a '96 F150
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

C216 is an unused carryover connector from the older vacuum cruise amplifier, which was not used in these trucks after 1992. I have not found any explanation why it exists in the later wiring harnesses.

Several connectors have been cut off including:
Ignition Switch
MFS
ESOF Switch
Radio



See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness49Eng.JPG | Hits: 2873 | Size: 68.63 KB | Posted on: 10/29/12 | Link to this image


'95 4.9L Engine Harness

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Engine Bay Harness from '93 Bronco XLT
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I forgot to label the washer pump connector, which is near C1055.

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness93XLThvac.JPG | Hits: 2599 | Size: 101.77 KB | Posted on: 2/12/12 | Link to this image


HVAC Harness from '93 Bronco XLT

See also:
. MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness93XLTalt.JPG | Hits: 3783 | Size: 105.64 KB | Posted on: 2/12/12 | Link to this image


Alternator Harness from '93 Bronco XLT (stock)

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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7Pin93.jpg | Hits: 1886 | Size: 147.79 KB | Posted on: 9/1/14 | Link to this image


7-Pin Trailer Connector on '93 EB Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that socket with round pins uses a different pinout than a socket with flat blades.



See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness94TG.JPG | Hits: 2680 | Size: 58.72 KB | Posted on: 3/13/12 | Link to this image


'94 Bronco tailgate wiring harness

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Harness Wear on a '95 Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This truck began exhibiting intermittent electrical problems, like the PSOM flickering off (which caused the transmission to briefly slam into 2nd) and the overhead console. When it became frequent enough, the wiggle test was used to locate & then pinpoint the fault, which was the torn LHF wheelwell vibrating during driving, which had worn into several wires at an exposed location on the engine bay harness. After repairing each wire, the harness was re-wrapped and more split loom was added to protect it. The wheelwell was also re-attached with larger washers.

. .

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HarnessCut.jpg | Hits: 382 | Size: 41.04 KB | Posted on: 2/9/21 | Link to this image


Wiring Harness Repair
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Unless burned, it's almost always quicker, cheaper, easier, & better to repair a damaged wiring harness than to replace it. This one was sawzalled by thieves, but after this repair, it worked like it never happened. And it almost looked that way.

. .

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StarterV8auto.jpg | Hits: 17 | Size: 75.78 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Smallblock V8 (5.0L & 5.8L) Starter for auto trans
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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Starter Solenoid 12V Lug Cover

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My starter relay (E9TZ-11450-B). Functionally identical to the older style whose main lugs point to opposite sides, but a vastly superior design. If the white text labels in the pic are too small to read, click the pic.

Note that the starter wire is ALONE on one of the Main terminals (it doesn't matter which). The start trigger wire (R/LB) is alone on the S (Start) terminal. Since I'm using an old (carburetor) ignition switch, I'm using a relay with an I (Ignition) terminal to feed the EFI computer during cranking, but it normally bypasses an Ignition resistor on older vehicles. EFIs do not need that terminal, so most of their starter relays don't have it.

EVERYTHING else is on the other Main terminal so they're all connected to the battery.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The sticker on top of this relay indicates that it has a diode from the S terminal to the base (ground) to dissipate the backflow of current when it turns OFF, which is required for all EFIs so the TFI-IV ICM doesn't lock into START timing for the whole drive cycle. The diode won't affect carb vehicles, so most modern relays are built with diode-suppression.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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AndersonConns.jpg | Hits: 15 | Size: 42.63 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Anderson-style Connectors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These are useful for jumper cables, winches, snow plows, inverters, amplifiers, or any high-current devices that need to be disconnected occasionally.

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Weatherproof.jpg | Hits: 2011 | Size: 72.03 KB | Posted on: 9/20/16 | Link to this image


Weatherproof Automotive Enclosures

They just AREN'T.

This is what you get with those pretty colored rubber boots over the ends of the wires, hiding the stack of nuts on the motor terminals; and the spiffy black plastic box with the high-tech seals around each wire passing through; and the neato multi-pin sealed connector for the remote; and the wireless receiver tucked inside...

Every single drop of rain that ever leaked inside (and it DOES get inside) stayed there forever. It never drained out; it never dried out; it just soaked into everything and corroded the hell out of it until it was right on the verge of catching fire when it was really needed.

It would have been MUCH more-durable if all of this had been left exposed so that the rain could run off & dry up without doing all this damage. A little PAINT or electrical grease (not conductive grease, or dielectric grease, or thermal grease) would have kept the connections in good condition MUCH longer.

This is why factory underhood fuse & relay boxes are vented, and have many drains. It's also why cheap winches (& other tools) are so much more expensive than GOOD ones.


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GregWinch4.jpg | Hits: 903 | Size: 99.26 KB | Posted on: 1/23/18 | Link to this image


Cheap Winch = Cheap Fairlead (and all other parts)

Although this roller fairlead LOOKS just like any other from a distance, close inspection shows that it's just thin steel tubes with plastic bushings. And when it was loaded (not even CLOSE to the winch's max), the plastic shattered inside.

The fairlead on a good winch will be heavy steel rollers, with no (or brass) bushings that can take a full side/rear pull.


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Starter Relays
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The top 2 (late style) (E9TZ-11450-B) use parallel bolts as terminals, so the copper washer inside always touches the flat bolt heads. The others (early style) (E9TZ-11450-B) use bolts perpendicular to the relay's axis, so the washer touches the sides of the bolt heads. But if the bolt is accidentally rotated (as during overtorquing), the washer will only touch a corner, causing high resistance, arcing, and welding. That's why the new style is far superior. All have 3~5 Ohms & draw 3~5 Amps.

The 85A continuous-duty relay has a metal housing to dissipate the heat, and its S2 terminal allows its coil to be fully isolated (for reverse-polarity duty). It has ~18 Ohms & draws ~0.6 A .
45A solid-state relay
200A continuous-duty relay
500A continuous-duty relay

Note that all Main terminals are electrically interchangeable. But on the newer relays, they are mechanically different in that the plastic housing restricts access to M2 slightly more, indicating that it should have only 1 wire attached.

It's common for these to be MISidentified as "solenoids", but a solenoid operates a mechanism, and a starter solenoid is ON the starter; a relay is an electrical switch. Many '90-up Fords have both a starter solenoid & a starter relay, so it's important to differentiate them.

A winch relay has 4 main terminals; 2 normally open, and 2 others normally closed.

See also:
. . . .
. . . . .

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Side-Terminal (Old-Style) Starter Relay (E9TZ-11450-B)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The worst characteristic of this design is that the flat surfaces on the heads of the 2 main contact bolts have to be perfectly parallel for the washer to make good contact. But because the nuts are tightened in opposite directions, the flats are always misaligned, resulting in VERY small contact points between the bolts & washer. This commonly results in either 1) the bolt corners burning to the point that they don't make contact or power the starter; OR 2) the washer welding to the bolts, causing the starter to continue spinning whether the engine is running, or the key is removed. If the bolts had splines, it would help keep them from turning, but none do. The fact that the big copper washer can rotate (when it's not severely corroded) also helps by exposing clean copper to the bolts, but it doesn't clean the bolts or itself.

In the lower R, I've sanded the corrosion away, but it's not a practical way to keep the relay working when the later design is so superior, and inexpensive. So I recommend NEVER using this style relay for a starter, or any other high-current circuit. Use the new style with all studs parallel, opposite the mounting base, whenever possible.

To test a relay for the symptom of no cranking, bypass the relay by bridging the 2 large posts. If the starter doesn't work, diagnose the starter. If the starter works as it should, but doesn't work using the key, bridge from the Bplus post (the one with the LARGER cable from the battery positive) to the small (S) post. If the starter works, the relay is good and the fault is between the ignition switch & the relay (clutch switch or neutral switch). If not, the fault is at the relay. If the relay didn't click, either it's not grounded, or its coil is burned out. If it did click but the starter didn't engage, the relay's contacts are corroded as the top R pic shows.

To check for this withOUT disassembly, test cranking (relay triggered) voltage across the 2 large terminals. It should be under 1.5VDC. Anything higher indicates high resistance inside the relay.

To test a relay for the symptom of starter spinning constantly, disconnect all the small wires. If the starter continues spinning, the relay is welded. Rapping sharply on it may break it free, allowing the starter to stop.

See also:
. . . . . . . . . .
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd

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Starter Relays

The old style (E9TZ-11450-B) is unreliable, even when new. The new style (E9TZ-11450-B) is a direct replacement.

See also:
. . . .

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Starter Relay (E9TZ-11450-B) with parallel posts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This design is superior to the older side-post style primarily because the quality of its contact doesn't depend on the rotation of the main studs, which are splined to prevent rotation anyway. Its contacts self-clean (to a degree, of course), it uses less copper, it takes up less space, and it's easier to bypass if it does fail.

To test it, bypass it by bridging the 2 large posts. If the starter doesn't work, diagnose the starter. If the starter works as it should, but doesn't work using the key, bridge from the rear post (the one with the LARGER cable from the battery positive) to the small (S) post. If the starter works, the relay is good and the fault is between the ignition switch & the relay (clutch switch or neutral switch). If not, the fault is at the relay. If the relay didn't click, either it's not grounded, or its coil is burned out. If it did click but the starter didn't engage, the relay's contacts are corroded as the top R pic shows.

To check for this withOUT disassembly, test cranking voltage across the 2 large terminals. It should be under 1.5VDC. Anything higher indicates high resistance inside the relay.

This relay is corroded because it came from a truck that was abandoned in the woods for 6 years. After this cleaning, it has worked reliably for 3 years.

See also:
. . . . . .
. . . .

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Starter Relay (E9TZ-11450-B) Connections '92-96
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The relay trigger wire (R/LB) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N.

The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter.

130A alternators use the same charge cable as 95A.

The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle.

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . .

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'92-96 Engine Bay RHF
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The green ground stud is G101.



This late-style starter relay (E9TZ-11450-B) is vastly superior to the older design.

Soldered-on battery terminals are a BIG improvement, and the extended clamp bolt is handy. Always use a high-quality Group 65 battery (BXT-65-850).

See also:
. . . . .
. . . . . .

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

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This is the best battery for the money (now renamed TestedToughMAX). ~$140 (during sales) with an 8-year warranty, the first 3 of which are free-replacement. The Optima doesn't come close to that, or the CCA or reserve capacity, and costs MUCH more. This battery is made by Johnson Controls, just like Optima, but this is from the same line as Sears DieHard Gold, Interstate MTP, and a few other high-quality batteries. DuraLast & EverStart are bottom-end JC batteries.

Before buying a craptasmic battery or other common part, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

. . . .

Hold-down with long bolt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO76EW/

http://www.batteryfaq.org/

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Both of these appear to have come from '93 trucks, but both are stamped F4TB748.

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More battery trays from the junkpile...

.

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Engine Block Ground (G103) on a '93 5.8L Bronco
Looking up & rearward, lying in front of the RHF tire.

The 4.9L block ground is either on an engine mount bolt, or a starter bolt.

This is the most-critical ground connection since it serves the 2 highest-current devices on the truck: the starter (which draws 140-350A), and the alternator (which supplies up to ~150A). Note that the actual terminal for the battery negative cable is directly against the block so it has the best possible connection, and the least possible resistance. Their mating surfaces must be clean & flat, stripped of paint & corrosion, and they should be coated with ELECTRICAL grease (not dielectric, thermal, or chassis greases, or anti-seize lube). A clean bolt would also help. Apply anti-seize to the hanger stud threads so that loosening the nut does NOT loosen the ground bolt.
Motorcraft F2TZ-14301-B Negative Battery Cable with body, frame, & block grounds

.

As important as this ground is, it can't do much if the other grounds are weak, so make sure the starter & alternator mounting surfaces are equally clean & flat (preferably also with electrical grease), and that the battery terminals are even-more clean & solid.

. .
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one the main electrical pathway, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

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V8 Block Grounds

The one that will be used on this block is clean, down to shiny metal and lightly but fully coated with electrical grease (not dielectric, thermal, conductive, or chassis grease; or anti-seize lube; or battery-terminal snot...). Every other terminal & point-of-contact for the heavy cables should be at least as clean, and have electrical grease. Before installing the cable's ring terminal, I'll remove the paint from that surface of the block.

See also:

. . . . .
Motorcraft F2TZ-14301-B Negative Battery Cable with body, frame, & block grounds
___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one the main electrical pathway, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

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The I6 frame ground is on the R engine perch. Like the V8, it's a tab soldered to a bare spot on the block ground cable. Unfortunately, the factory bolted it to the frame PERCH instead of the actual frame. I moved mine to the fuel vent tube clamp bolt location, after wire-brushing the frame & applying electrical grease.
Motorcraft F2TZ-14301-B Negative Battery Cable with body, frame, & block grounds



This is a V8 frame ground:

___________________________________________________
"Grounding" is commonly misunderstood...

When electricity first became publicly available (when Edison & Tesla were fighting over DC vs. AC), Copper wire was very expensive. So rather than run 2 wires everywhere, Tesla realized he could run a "hot" wire, and then use the ground (the actual dirt of the Earth) as the return circuit path. (He also thought he could use the ionosphere as the hot side, but he never got that to work.) Inside a house, there still had to be 2 wires, but one of them went "to the ground" via a Copper rod driven into the dirt outside the house. That became known as "the ground wire". When vehicles acquired electric circuits (AFAIK, the first on any Ford was the electric horn, which Ford always numbers as circuit #1), it was equally-efficient to use the metal chassis of the vehicle as one the main electrical pathway, to reduce the amount of wire needed. And the term "ground" was carried over into that arena. Chassis grounding worked reasonably-well until alternators got up into the ~100A range (in the 80s) and vehicle wiring harnesses began to exceed the weight of the drivetrain (AFAIK, the first to cross that line was the '92 Lincoln Continental V6). Since then, more circuits are networked through high-speed data bus lines via communication modules so that you don't need a discrete wire running from one end of the vehicle to the other & another coming back to turn on a taillight, and confirm that the bulb isn't burnt out.

But as a result, the chassis/body ground is no longer sufficient to provide a reliable circuit path without introducing a lot of background noise (RFI) into those minuscule high-frequency data signals. So the trend for a couple of decades now has been to run actual Copper return wires so that far less current flows through the chassis steel. (House wiring standards added a return "neutral" wire decades before that.)

So by definition, if you're using a wire to return to the battery, you're not "grounding" that circuit - you're wiring it. And wiring it is a good idea when you're dealing with rusty 40- to 50-year-old body & frame steel. The catch is that the return wiring has to be AT LEAST as large as ALL the power wiring that it serves - IOW, very big like the alternator output wire, the starter wire, the winch wiring, and the ignition switch battery-supply wires. None of it needs to be bigger than the battery cables because you can't ever get more current flowing than the battery can put out (roughly whatever its CA rating is).

So if you want to be sure you have a good return path throughout any vehicle, just extend the battery (-) cable all the way to the trailer connector. Obviously, you can't run a cable that big into the trailer connector or anything else - you have to splice onto it to branch off with smaller black wire (or whatever color the particular circuit uses for "ground"). That's why I refer to that as a "trunk ground" system - the main return wire is like a big tree trunk, with the variously-sized smaller branches shooting out to hit each point on the vehicle that needs an exceptionally-reliable return (generally: the high-current devices; and those that require low RFI noise, like audio amplifiers).

Fortunately, those splices DON'T need to be insulated - they can be left showing bare metal. Copper & solder don't corrode very quickly in air, or even in common rainwater. Mainly just at the battery where acid leaks out. Road salt will eventually cause some corrosion, but probably not enough to matter within the remaining lifespan of even the best-maintained antiques.

And the body & frame should still be GROUNDED at a few points, just to reduce galvanic corrosion, and to serve the very-low-current chassis-grounded loads like taillights & fuel level senders.

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Heavy-Duty 1G alternator (100A) from '90 E150 5.0L



Voltage regulator wiring similar to this:


See also:
.

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2G Alternator on a '92 F150 5.0L
'93-up have a 3G alternator. All 2Gs are fire hazards, despite the TSB below. They should all be upgraded to 3G, and it's nearly a PnP swap.



See the NEXT several captions....

-------------------------------------------------------------
TSB 96-21-04 Generator Harness Connector



Publication Date: OCTOBER 7, 1996

FORD: 1985-90 ESCORT, TEMPO
1986 TAURUS
1986-90 CROWN VICTORIA
1987-92 THUNDERBIRD
1987-93 MUSTANG
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1985-87 LYNX
1985-90 TOPAZ
1986 SABLE
1986-90 GRAND MARQUIS, TOWN CAR
1987-92 COUGAR
LIGHT TRUCK: 1985-90 BRONCO II
1985-91 AEROSTAR
1986-91 ECONOLINE
1986-92 RANGER
1986-93 BRONCO
1986-94 F-150-350 SERIES



ISSUE: When a generator fails, there are a few failure modes that may cause heat to be produced at the wiring harness-to-generator connector. This excess heat may damage the female terminals on the wiring harness, resulting in increased resistance. The increased resistance produces more heat. When the generator is replaced, the resistance produced by a damaged connector may damage the new generator and could result in a repeat repair, including installation of another generator. High resistance (caused by a damaged connector) will not go away until the damaged connector is replaced.

ACTION: Visually inspect the harness-to-generator connector for damage (heat, corrosion, distortion and cracking) before installing a new generator. Install the Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit (E5AZ-14305-AA) if the harness-to-generator connector is damaged.

The Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit (E5AZ-14305-AA) contains the following:

One (1) Red Wire Butt Connector
Two (2) Yellow Wire Butt Connectors
One (1) Wire Connector Assembly
One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. 6849)

PART NUMBER PART NAME
E5AZ-14305-AA Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-25-04
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To test the alt, first install a good CHARGED battery. Then momentarily ground the screw on the back of the alt where it says GROUND HERE TO TEST (the Field brush screw) using a jumper wire with the engine at 1500-2500RPM. Have a voltmeter connected across the battery posts. The voltage should instantly spike over 15.5V, and continue to climb slowly. Don't ground that screw for any longer than it takes to make this observation (a couple of seconds). If it fails, the fault could be in the alternator, the wiring, or any connection (including the alt to the block).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-24-06 New Electrical Terminal Grease Released for Service

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 25, 1998

FORD:
1981-1999 ESCORT
1983-1999 CROWN VICTORIA
1984-1988 EXP
1984-1994 TEMPO
1985-1999 TAURUS
1986-1997 PROBE
1988-1991 FESTIVA
1993-1999 MUSTANG
1994-1997 ASPIRE
1995-1999 CONTOUR
1996-1997 THUNDERBIRD

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1983-1999 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS
1984-1986 CAPRI
1984-1987 LN7
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1985-1999 SABLE
1988-1992 MARK VII
1991-1994 CAPRI
1993-1998 MARK VIII
1993-1999 TRACER
1995-1999 MYSTIQUE
1996-1997 COUGAR, TOWN CAR
1999 COUGAR

MERKUR:
1985-1988 XR4TI
1988 SCORPIO

LIGHT TRUCK:
1981-1996 BRONCO
1981-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD, F-350
1981-1999 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD
1983-1999 RANGER
1984-1990 BRONCO II
1984-1997 AEROSTAR
1991-1999 EXPLORER
1993-1999 VILLAGER
1995-1999 WINDSTAR
1997-1999 EXPEDITION, MOUNTAINEER
1998-1999 NAVIGATOR
1999 SUPER DUTY F SERIES

MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK:
1984-1999 F & B SERIES
1988-1997 CARGO SERIES
1996-1998 AEROMAX, LOUISVILLE

ISSUE: Ford Motor Company has released a new Electrical Grease (F8AZ-19G208-AA) to reduce the possibility of moisture corrosion at the terminals.

Electrical Grease (F8AZ-19G208-AA)



ACTION: Add the new grease during electrical connection repair.

CAUTION: ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR GREASE SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS FOR SPARK PLUG AND COIL WIRE APPLICATIONS.

PROPER USES OF THE NEW ELECTRICAL GREASE INCLUDE:
Electrical Connectors
Battery Connections
Light Sockets
Starter Terminals

DO NOT USE ON:
Spark Plug Wires
Coil Wires
Spark Plug-to-Coil Connections
Low Current Flow Switches (12V Systems less than 0.1 amp)

. .

DO NOT CONFUSE WITH D7AZ-19A331-A : Silicone Brake Caliper Grease And Dielectric Compound


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Alternator Wiring 2G vs. 3G Connectors

The only differences are that: 1) the 2G uses a dangerous 3-pin plug for the outputs (battery power & stator); the 3G uses a heavy ring for the battery output (like the 1G) and a small blade connector for the stator. And 2) the 3G output wire is heavier (enough for ~160A).

So it's very easy & worthwhile to cut off the dangerous 2G connector, combine the Battery wires on a ring terminal (crimped & soldered), convert the Stator wire to an appropriate terminal, and install a 95A 3G.

. . ,

Another option is to just pick up a 3G harness from the JY and swap it in with the 3G alternator. That allows the use of a 130A 3G.



With the matching 3G harness, there's no reason to put in the 95A version - always swap to the 130Amp-output 3G, even if the truck originally had the 95A.



But ALWAYS clean the mounting surfaces so the alternator case is well-grounded to the engine.



See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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3G Alternators are easily distinguishable by the vent holes between each pair of front ribs. 95A models have 4 holes; 130A models have a larger case diameter and 2 larger holes. In 2023, the PN for the V8-style 130A 3G (the clean one above) was Ford F6UZ10346VBRM4 (MC GL8779RM) (pulley not included).

. . . . .

The alt. on the Left has the small-case narrow-spread front-mount front casehalf used on many early applications, including '93-96 4.9Ls; the Right one has the large-case 3-bolt front casehalf used on many smallblock V8s & diesels, and others. There are at least 3 other mounting bolt configurations for each size of case. The rear casehalf is always the same for each of the 2 sizes, but some have an additional mounting bolt boss.

Various applications will have the rear case clocked differently, so if your wiring doesn't reach, FIRST loosen the front nut and take the pulley off. Then remove the 3 case bolts, flip it, lift the front case while pushing the shaft into the rear case slightly, rotate the front, set it down, and reassemble it. If the shaft (armature) slides out of the rear case, the brushes will shoot out behind the commutator. Simply remove the voltage regulator, push the brushes back in, pin them with a paperclip or toothpick, finish assembling the alternator, reinstall the VR, and remove the pin.

Be sure to clean the case mounting points on the alt. & the engine, the alt. output stud, & the battery terminals to get an alternator's best performance:

. . . . .

There is no advantage to the 95A over the 130A in any application. A vehicle that came with a 95A (or ANY lower-output alt) will work at least as well with a 130A. But there is a huge advantage to any 3G (including the 95A) over any older-generation alternator; particularly the 2G, which is known to catch fire. This page & the NEXT several show how to swap the alternator & wiring harness without changing the mounting bracket:



But it would be easier changing the bracket, which also changes the belt routing and possibly the belt size.

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130A 3G Reman Motorcraft GL8779RM (Ford F07F10300AA)

This has the 3-bolt V8 case (gas & diesel), but it lacks the right-angle output adapter, which can't be easily added without removing the red insulator from inside the rear case.

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This is what happens when an alternator is run at max. output for too long. It can also happen simply due to age, which is why I suspect this one died. It came from the JY, so there's no telling how many miles are on it. I assume the diode blew first, causing all the other damage.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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Pulley Alignment can be checked by simply sighting across the pulleys. In this case, the camera is aligned with the (far) alternator pulley, showing how badly the belt is being twisted. This can cause noise, wear, bearing or seal failure, or belt loss.
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Silicone Vacuum Lines on an '89 5.0L
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These are 3mmIDx8~9mmOD in the factory colors (black, red, yellow, green, pink, white) from eBay bought by the meter. A meter each of pink, white, yellow, & green is enough; but it takes a few meters of red & black.

See also:
. .

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Vacuum Manifold

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Vacuum Check Valves

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Plastic Dual-chamber Vacuum Reservoir on an '87 F350


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The mysterious coffee can, finally revealed. Like most, this one has rusted along the rear seam until the constant flexing due to pressure changes cracked the rear cap, allowing dirt inside, and an unrepairable vacuum leak. The fix is to swap in the newer plastic reservoir.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article to learn how each one benefits the engine.

. . .

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V8 Engine Bay
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. . . . . .

MAP sensor is Motorcraft CX-2403

Blower Fan -

Blower Motor Resistor -

Recirc Motor Vacuum Line -

EVP -

The 4 vent holes between the pair of ribs on the front of the alternator indicate it's a 95A version of the 3G.

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V8 Vacuum lines (same as 5.0L)

. . . . . .

A common problem is for the FPR diaphragm to fail, allowing hi-pressure fuel to leak into the red vacuum line, which dumps straight into the intake plenum. This can flood the engine, and if allowed to continue, it can wash the rings out & damage the bearings.
.
Some are harder to change than others due to the tiny fasteners facing down.

To find the vacuum map (VECI label) specific to your engine, read this caption:


The most common problem with the TAB & TAD is for the 'coffee can' vacuum reservoir on the R wheelwell to rust/crack, venting the vacuum required to operate the TAB & TAD air valves. The best fix is to replace the coffee can with the later plastic reservoir, using a hair dryer to bend the lines to fit.


The most common problem with the EVR is for its vacuum line to crack. Simply slip rubber vacuum line over the break.

Static Resistance Values:
TAB/TAD: 50-100 ohms
EVR: 30-70 ohms
Injector: 11-18 ohms
Coil: 0.3-1.0 ohms between primary terminals
Coil: 8-11.5 Kohms between output & either primary
Coil: >12Kohms beteen any terminal & E-core

Injectors:
.

For more info, read this article about Emissions Systems.

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RFI Capacitors
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Unlike the similar-looking condenser (capacitor) on older points-style ignition systems which was required for the system to work, these RFI capacitors are only to reduce noise in the radio (primarily in the AM band). The later design F6UZ-18832-AA (~$8~11 at dealership) is an upgrade & direct replacement for the older metal design.

See also:

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RFI Capacitor F6UZ-18832-AA ~$8~11 at dealership

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V8 Throttle Body Components

The CANP solenoid should have 30-38 Ohms resistance.

See also:

. . . . . . . .

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V8 IAC & TPS

The stop screw is red-threadlocked because it should NEVER be adjusted. It does NOT control idle speed; it prevents the throttle butterflies from binding in the throttle bores. If it has been tampered with, follow the procedure below to reset it correctly.

The TPS is usually fastened by PoziDrive screws, which look very similar to Phillips. But a Phillips bit does not fit correctly, and will usually round the screw heads (which are also threadlocked). Identify the screw before selecting a tool to remove them.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How to adjust idle speed (official Ford procedure)

Engine Idle Speed Check & Adjustment - Follow this procedure as directed step-by-step, noting the applicability of each step. Skipping through the procedure will result in abnormal idle & possibly other driveability symptoms.

AIS7
Verify that the following engine systems have been properly diagnosed and corrected before proceeding with the Air Intake System diagnostics:
- Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System.
- Exhaust System.
- Ignition System (Refer to maintenance schedule).
- Engine Cooling System (engine coolant temperature is above 160 degrees F).
- Fuel pressure, fuel filter, fuel quality (contamination).

AIS8
Key on, engine running with engine at idle, listen for vacuum leaks. Inspect the entire inlet air system from the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor to the intake manifold for leaks such as:
- Cracked or punctured outlet air tube or air cleaner housing assembly.
- Loose connections on the inlet air tube at the air cleaner housing or throttle body.
- Idle Air Control (IAC) valve assembly or gasket seal.
- Intake manifold assembly or gasket seal.
- EGR valve diaphragm or control solenoid.
- EGR valve gasket seal leak to intake manifold.
- Vacuum supply connectors and hose.
- PCV connectors and hose.

AIS9
NOTE: Engine idle RPM is controlled by the PCM and cannot be adjusted. This test will verify the idle rpm is within the specification. If the engine is allowed to idle for an extended period of time, or if the engine temperature is hot enough to require cooling fan operation, it may be necessary to turn the engine off and repeat this test procedure.
- Transmission in Park (wheels blocked and parking brake engaged).
- A/C, heater and all accessories are off.
- Key on, engine running.
- Engine at normal operating temperature and cooling fan off.
WARNING: DO NOT UNPLUG COOLING FAN. IT MAY CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING.

Idle RPM Check
NOTE: Idle rpm check should only be performed after Diagnostic Test Steps AIS7 through AIS9 have been completed.
- Transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL.
- Parking brakes applied (automatic brake release disconnected where applicable).
- Driving wheels blocked.
- Generator belt tension.
- Heater and accessories off.
- Throttle lever resting on the throttle plate stop screw.
- EEC-IV diagnostics performed and vehicle malfunction indicated by Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

NOTE: For additional information, refer to Fuel/Engine Group in the Car or Truck Service Manual.

NOTE: The curb idle and fast idle RPMs are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is not adjustable. A large increase or decrease in closed plate airflow from the calibrated level will not allow this device to effectively control the rpm.

Throttle bodies with sludge tolerant design are clearly identified with a yellow/black attention decal. Refer to Figure 23 for the location of decal. This decal advises that the throttle return screw must not be adjusted counter-clockwise (backed off), as this will not reduce the engine speed but may cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore in the closed (idle) position. Backing out the screw may be required if the throttle body had been previously serviced (a plug may be present in the throttle plate orifice) or if the throttle return screw has been tampered with (TP sensor self-test output out of range), refer to the appropriate procedure for details. The decal also advises that these throttle bodies must not be cleaned inside the bore, as cleaning will impair the sensitive coating. The sludge accumulation will not affect the throttle body idle air flow. (The cleaning procedure for the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve may still apply. Refer to the Service Manual.)

Throttle bodies should not be cleaned because cleaning will remove the sludge tolerant coating.

Follow these steps to service the throttle body:

1. Remove the throttle body.
2. Hold it up to a light. No light should be visible between the plate and bore with the throttle plate closed. The hole in the plate should be visible and unobstructed.
3. Rotate the throttle lever and allow it to return. It should not stick or bind. It should return to the closed plate (idle) position freely when released.

If the problem cannot be corrected (an obstruction cannot be removed, free sticking, etc.), the throttle body must be replaced.

Procedure Selection Chart: (The 1995 applications with self-test idle rpm check use procedure A; those without use procedure B.)

ENGINE - - - - - - - - - VEHICLE - - - - - - - PROCEDURE
3.0L - - - - - - - - - - - Aerostar - - - - - - - - - - B
4.0L - - - - - - - - - - - Aerostar - - - - - - - - Not Adjustable
4.9L - - - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - A
5.0L MFI - - - - - - - - - Non E4OD - - - - - - - - - B
5.0L MFI - - - - - - - - - - E4OD - - - - - - - - - - - A
5.0L SFI - - - - - - - - - - AODE - - - - - - - - - - - A
5.8L - - - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - A
7.0L MFI - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - A
7.5L MFI - - - - - - - - - - All - - - - - - - - - - - - - B

Procedure A
1. Activate engine running self-test. See this page.
2. After DTC slow code output is completed, unlatch and within 4 seconds latch the STI button. (If using a jumper wire in the DLC, remove it for LESS than 4 sec.)
3. A single pulse code indicates the entry mode, then observe the Self-Test Output (STO) of the STAR Tester in Item 4. If adjustment is required in Item 4, refer to possible causes listed in A1S7 and A1S8 and correct them as required.
Continue with this procedure if necessary.
4. Observe STAR tester or CEL or other indicator.
- A. Constant tone, solid light or "STO LO" readout means base idle rpm is within range. To exit test, unlatch STI button , then wait four seconds for reinitialization (after 10 minutes it will exit by itself).
- B. Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (8 Hz) indicates TP sensor is out of range due to over adjustment; adjustment may be required.
- C. Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (4 Hz) indicates base idle rpm is too fast, adjustment is required, go to step 6.
- D. Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (1 Hz) indicates base idle rpm is too slow, adjustment is required, go to step 5.
5. If rpm is too slow, follow applicable procedure for the engine being serviced.
- A. Do not clean the throttle body. Turn the air trim screw counter-clockwise until conditions in step 4(A) are satisfied.
- B. Do not clean the throttle body. Check for the plate orifice plug. If there is no plug, turn throttle return screw clockwise until conditions in Step 4(A) are satisfied. If there is a plug from previous service, remove plug and then adjust screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.
6. If rpm is too high, follow applicable procedure for the engine being serviced.
- A. Do not clean the throttle body. Turn the air trim screw clockwise until conditions in Step 4(A) are satisfied.
- B. Turn engine OFF.
- - a. Block off the orifice in the throttle plate temporarily with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service, go to Step (c).
- - b. Restart the engine and check idle speed using Self-Test (mass air packages require air intake hose to be reattached first). If engine stalled, crack open the plate by turning the throttle return screw clockwise.
- - c. If rpm continues to be fast, perform test in Step 7. If TP sensor DTC is within range, remove tape, go to Section 2A for other causes. If out of range, adjust throttle return screw for proper TP sensor DTC code (lever pad must be in contact with screw after adjustment). If rpm is still fast, terminate this procedure and go to Section 2A for other possible causes.
- - d. However, if rpm drops to or below the desired level, as indicated by Self -Test Output tone, turn the engine off, disconnect air cleaner hose, remove the tape.
- - e. Install the plug with proper color code depending on throttle plate orifice size (refer to the end of this section).
- - f. Reconnect the air cleaner hose - start the engine, turn the throttle return screw clockwise (do not turn it counter -clockwise as this may cause the throttle plate to stick at idle) until conditions in Step 4(A) are satisfied.
7. Run KOEO Self-Test for proper TP sensor DTC.
8. Verify the throttle plate is not stuck in the bore at idle position and linkage is not preventing throttle from closing.
9. On Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) applications, check TV pressure adjustment.

Procedure B
1. Engine off, disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery for five minutes, then reconnect it.
2. Start engine and stabilize for two minutes, then goose engine and let it return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator and let engine idle. NOTE: If electric fan comes on, wait until it turns off.
3. If engine idles properly, exit this procedure.
4. Unplug SPOUT line (except 7.5L) and verify ignition timing is base ±2 deg BTDC (refer to VECI decal).
7. Disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid
8. Start engine and run at idle for 120 sec (7.5L - 2500 rpm for 30 sec).
9. Place automatic transmission in PARK, manual transmission in NEUTRAL.
10. Check idle rpm to the range using tachometer. 5.0L MFI Truck Non-E4OD: Auto 675±50 Man 700±50; 7.5L: 650±50
- A. If rpm is too low, do not clean the throttle body. Check for the plate orifice plug. If there is no plug, turn throttle return screw clockwise to the desired rpm ±25. If there is a plug from previous service, remove plug and then adjust screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.
- B. If rpm is too high, turn engine off.
- - a. Disconnect air cleaner hose.
- - b. Block off the orifice in the throttle plate temporarily with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service, go to Step f. If the orifice does not have a plug, go to Step e.
- - c. Restart the engine and check idle speed using a tachometer (mass air applications will require air cleaner hose to be reattached before rpm check). If engine stalled, crack open the plate by turning throttle return screw clockwise. Do not over adjust.
- - d. If rpm continues to be fast, perform test in Step 18. If TP sensor DTC is within
range, remove tape, go to Section 2A for other causes. If out of range, adjust throttle return screw for proper TP sensor DTC. Lever pad must be in contact with the screw. If rpm is still fast, terminate this procedure and go to Section 2A for other possible causes.
- - e. If rpm drops to value in Step 10 or below, or engine stalls, turn the engine off, disconnect air cleaner hose, remove the tape.
- - f. Install the plug with proper color code depending on orifice size (refer to the end of
this Section).
- - g. Reconnect the air cleaner hose - start the engine. Check idle rpm using a tachometer. Turn the throttle return screw clockwise (do not turn it counter-clockwise as this may cause the throttle plate to stick at idle) to the nominal rpm ± 25 shown in Step 10.
11. Shut engine off and repeat steps 8, 9 and 10.
12. Remove the feeler gauge between plate stop screw and throttle lever.
13. Shut engine off and disconnect battery for 10 minutes minimum.
14. Reconnect SPOUT line (except 7.5L).
15. Remove Rotunda tool. Unplug PCV hose. Reconnect CANP and PCV hoses to the intake manifold.
16. Engine off, reconnect Idle Air Control solenoid, verify the throttle plate is not stuck in the bore at idle position and linkage is not preventing throttle from closing.
17. Start engine and stabilize for two minutes, then goose engine and let it return to idle. Lightly press and release the accelerator and let engine idle. If idle problem still persists, go to Section 2A for other possible causes.
18. Run KOEO Self-Test for proper TP sensor DTC.
19. On Automatic Overdrive Transmission (AOD) applications, check TV pressure adjustment.


Throttle Plate Orifice Plug Service Installation Procedure

1. Remove air inlet tube(s) from throttle body.
2. Select the proper color plug by using the Go/No-Go gauge pegs included with the service kit F0PZ-9F652-A. (Refer to Figure.)
3. Starting with the largest diameter gauge peg, attempt to insert it through the throttle plate orifice.
4. If the gauge peg goes through the orifice, use the corresponding color plug. If it does not go through, proceed with the next smaller gauge peg for Go/No-Go Test.
NOTE: It is important that the largest Go/No-Go combination is used to determine the proper plug size.
5. If the smallest gauge peg does not go through the orifice, use the reamer bit and handle included with the service kit to enlarge the plate orifice. Wipe bearing grease on both sides of the plate orifice and on the reamer bit to hold the brass chips. After reaming, wipe the plate clean and then return to Step 3 to determine the proper plug size.
6. Using the installation tool from the service kit, apply some bearing grease to the tip of the tool to help hold the plug on the tool, then push the plug into the orifice until it bottoms out at the throttle plate.
7. Open and snap shut the throttle several times to verify proper plug retention.
8. Reconnect air inlet tube(s).
9. Reset idle rpm per engine requirement using the throttle return screw.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After adjusting the throttle stop, check the TPS range:


For the IAC cleaning procedure, see this caption:


For IAC replacement, see this caption:


Idle Air Trim

Idle Air Trim is designed to adjust the Idle Air Control (IAC) calibration to correct for wear and aging of components. When engine conditions meet the learning requirement, the strategy monitors the engine and determines the values required for ideal idle calibration. The Idle Air Trim values are stored in a table for reference. This table is used by the PCM as a correction factor when controlling idle speed. The table is stored in keep alive memory (KAM) and retains the learned values even after the engine is shut off. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is output if the Idle Air Trim has reached its learning limits.

Whenever an IAC component is replaced or cleaned or a service affecting idle is performed, it is recommended that keep alive memory be cleared. This is necessary so the idle strategy does not use the previously learned Idle Air Trim values. It is important to note that erasing DTCs with a scan tool does not reset the Idle Air Trim table.

Once keep alive memory has been reset, the engine must idle for 15 minutes (actual time varies between strategies) to learn new idle air trim values. Idle quality will improve as the strategy adapts. Adaptation occurs in four separate modes. The modes are shown in the following table.

IDLE AIR TRIM LEARNING MODES
Transmission Range - Air Conditioning Mode
NEUTRAL - A/C ON
NEUTRAL - A/C OFF
DRIVE - A/C ON
DRIVE - A/C OFF

Idle Speed Control Closed Throttle Determination

One of the fundamental criteria for entering rpm control is an indication of closed throttle. Throttle mode is always calculated to the lowest learned throttle position (TP) voltage seen since engine start. This lowest learned value is called "ratch," since the software acts like a one-way ratch. The ratch value (voltage) is displayed as the TPREL PID. The ratch value is relearned after every engine start. Ratch will learn the lowest, steady TP voltage seen after the engine starts. In some cases, ratch can learn higher values of TP. The time to learn the higher values is significantly longer than the time to learn the lower values. The brakes must also be applied to learn the higher values.

All PCM functions are done using this ratch voltage, including idle speed control. The PCM goes into closed throttle mode when the TP voltage is at the ratch (TPREL PID) value. Increase in TP voltage, normally less than 0.05 volts, will put the PCM in part throttle mode. Throttle mode can be viewed by looking at the TP MODE PID. With the throttle closed, the PID must read C/T (closed throttle). Slightly corrupt values of ratch can prevent the PCM from entering closed throttle mode. An incorrect part throttle indication at idle will prevent entry into closed throttle rpm control, and could result in a high idle. Ratch can be corrupted by a throttle position sensor or circuit that "drops out" or is noisy, or by loose/worn throttle plates that close tight during a decel and spring back at a normal engine vacuum.

See also:
. . . . . .

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Revised PCV hoses for V8s
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An easy way to take up the slack in the throttle pedal cable is to sleeve it.


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Screens
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Screening the intake keeps leaves, bugs, & other large debris out of the air filter box. Screening behind the grill protects the condenser from gravel damage, and keeps its & the radiator's fins clean. Spray-painting the screen flat black makes it nearly invisible, but holes must be cut for the hood release, and for the alignment tabs on the grill near its lower front mounting screw.

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Fan Shroud Lower Clips
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'92-97 front bumper spacers

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'92-96/7 Front Bumper Arms & (Bronco-only) Brace Plates
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Bumper Brackets for '87-91

Note frame horns are identical to '80-86, other than the holes for these bolts.

. .

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'87-91 Front Bumper Attachment
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V8 Lower Radiator Hose w/o Oil Cooler F3TA8B237NA Dayco 71740 or Dayco 71040, Gates 21216


V8 oil cooler hose Dayco 71735, Gates 22401 or Gates 22402
V8 lower w/oil cooler Dayco 71732, Gates 22143 or Gates 22541

V8 Upper F1TA8B274TA Dayco 71317 or Dayco 72691, Gates 22142

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Liquid leaks don't always originate where they drip from. Always follow the damp trail forward & up to the source. The air flow from driving forward at 60mph can carry engine oil leaking from the front main seal all the way to the rear axle.

.

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'96-only Misfire Sensor F6TZ6C365GE (chy-neez copy)
V8 bracket/timing pointer/shield is F6TZ 6C350 AA
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This sensor is not used for engine management, ignition, or as a crank position sensor (CPS). It is ONLY used to monitor catalyst-damaging misfires. The engine will run perfectly without it.

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V8 Pan Gasket
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The quickest, easiest, and best way to change the oil pan gasket on a V8 is to lift the engine out. It takes less time & causes less pain and frustration than fighting the new gasket into position in-chassis, and it ALWAYS results in a better seal from the new gasket. It also allows the engine & bay to be cleaned, and the pan to be painted (so it doesn't rust through).

See the NEXT pic...

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V8 Pan Gasket
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The quickest, easiest, and best way to change the oil pan gasket on a V8 is to lift the engine out. It takes less time & causes less pain and frustration than fighting the new gasket into position in-chassis, and it ALWAYS results in a better seal from the new gasket. It also allows the engine & bay to be cleaned, and the pan to be painted (so it doesn't rust through).



See the PREVious pic...

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A distributor cap doesn't have to be replaced just because it has some miles. If the wear is minor, it can be cleaned & used again. The corrosion is brittle, and can be chipped off as a flake using a pocket screwdriver or pick. Then the terminal can be shined using sandpaper, steel wool, or a Dremel-type wirewheel.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Applying silicone grease inside the cap (as Ford recommends here) will repel water, allowing the engine to run even if the distributor is splashed. Applying dielectric grease to the tip of the rotor will reduce the ozone corrosion on it & the cap's terminals. Never apply dielectric grease to the graphite contact, its mating contact on the rotor, or to any electrical connection. A Rubber Distributor Cover E6TZ-12252-A will also help repel splashed or sprayed water.

. . . .

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Distributor O-Ring
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This O-ring fits 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, and possibly other Ford distributors.

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Stabbing a V8 distributor

To get the rotor in the correct position, set the engine at #1 TDC (0°), and point the rotor just forward (right, CCW) of the front right plenum bolt. As the distributor drops into the block & the gears mesh, the rotor will move to the correct rearward position, above the "1" molded into the cup (highlighted with orange paint). The distributor body should be close to the position shown (PIP nearly straight rearward) for the engine to start.

See also:
.
_______________________________________________________
Distributor Installation

I recommend keeping a trickle charger on the battery all the time until you get it running. The Battery Tender (~$40 @ Sam's Club or Costco) or Battery Tender Jr. (~$35 on Amazon) are among the better ones.

The V8 timing marks are stamped into the edge of the harmonic balancer; I6 are bolted to the timing cover on the passenger side, between the smog pump & HB. Use steel wool, a wire brush, or sandpaper if necessary to clean the the marks so they're clearly visible. Use a socket & breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft if necessary. The V8 timing pointer is bolted to the timing cover; I6 is a tiny notch stamped into the lip of the HB.

.

Remove the #1 spark plug (V8 RHF) and rotate the crankshaft until the pointer aligns with 0. Use a hose to blow into the spark plug hole - if it's easy, and you hear the air coming out the throttle body, rotate the crank 1 full rev back to 0, and recheck. If it's difficult to blow air in (#1 compression stroke), and ALL the air comes out around the threads, drop a plastic drinking straw into the hole so it rests on the piston and rock the crankshaft gently to make sure you have the piston EXACTLY at top dead-center (straw as high as possible). Then re-check the pointer. If it's slightly off, adjust it so it's dead-on 0. If it's WAY off, replace the balancer.

Set the cap into place on the distributor body and make a mark on the bowl directly under the #1 tower (should be molded into the cap). Remove the cap, install the rotor on the dist shaft, & rotate the rotor so it points at the mark. With the dist bore clean & a light coat of clean motor oil on it & the dist O-ring, drop the dist into the bore so its connector points toward the wiring harness connector (or the vacuum advance is in a clear area).

You'll have to wiggle the rotor to get the gear teeth to align AND the oil pump shaft to fit into the bottom of the dist. shaft. When it drops all the way down, check if the dist body can be rotated so your #1 tower mark moves to both sides of the rotor tip. If not, raise it, & reset the rotor so it's centered in the mark's range of adjustment. Then loosely install the dist clamp & bolt so the dist can't rise, but it can be rotated with some effort.

Next, read these captions & check for timing chain/gear slop:

.

Replacing the gears is a BIG job that's best done by removing the engine, so don't dive into it on a whim. But if it's worn out, the engine will never run right until it IS replaced. Only you can decide since you're the one looking at it & paying for it. When you're finished, set the HB to 0 and the dist with your mark directly under the rotor tip.

Finally, install the cap & wires EXACTLY as shown in this diagram:

.

After checking everything (connectors, fluid levels, battery charge, rags hanging in the fan blades, etc.), put the key in RUN and use a starter relay trigger to crank the engine while you GENTLY work the distributor back & forth until it fires up. When it does, use either a timing light (SPOUT pulled) or vacuum gauge to set the timing close while it warms up. Then follow the instructions on the VECI label to set timing properly.



Distributor Clampdown Bolt 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft


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TimingSlackMeasure.jpg | Hits: 421 | Size: 67.42 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Timing Chain Slack
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

It's very easy & informative to check the slack in a V8 timing chain occasionally, and it only requires removing the distributor cap so that a pointer can be attached to the shaft (or rotor). Rotate the crankshaft forward slowly until the timing indicator is exactly on zero. Attach the pointer to the distributor shaft so it's close to some reference point. Then rotate the crankshaft backward JUST until the pointer barely moves. Read the degrees of slack from the timing scale. 2° is about as little as possible, with new gears & chain. At 5°, replacement should be considered. At 8°, the engine is probably running so poorly that it will be apparent.

.

5.0L/5.8L Timing Pointer F1TZ6023A/E3AZ6023A, Jegs 55550309

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OilPrime.jpg | Hits: 30 | Size: 85.97 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Oil Pump Priming
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After a rebuild or storage, an engine should be primed by driving the oil pump shaft (1/4" hex) the same direction that the distributor rotates (clockwise, forward on a drill).

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TimingV8.jpg | Hits: 34 | Size: 72 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Ignition Timing Adjustment on a V8
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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EngHarnsCndtNuts96.jpg | Hits: 23 | Size: 70.95 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Conduit Nuts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

With some effort, the V8 harness conduit nuts can be removed intact from the valve cover upper corner bolts, and reused.

Since the RFI strap's original location at the top of the plenum support tube is often problematic, relocating it is advantageous.

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Dist-mount TFI-IV SPOUT.jpg | Hits: 13073 | Size: 42.61 KB | Posted on: 10/1/05 | Link to this image


DIstributor-mounted TFI-IV ICM module & SPOUT connector on '84-91 trucks. This is a V8, looking straight across the radiator & fan belt at the base of the distributor.

Distributor-mounted TFIs were the subject of a class-action lawsuit against Ford due to their high failure rate. In '92, Ford moved the module to its own heat sink on the L inner fender, and modifying an older truck to this configuration is relatively cheap & easy.



Distributor Clampdown 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft



See also:
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/files/compare_TFIs.gif

. .

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IgModSocket.JPG | Hits: 4418 | Size: 61.19 KB | Posted on: 6/19/11 | Link to this image


Ignition Module Socket

Special deep thin wall 7/32" (5.5mm) allows access to TFI-IV ICM mounting screws.

.

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PlugDiagnosis.jpg | Hits: 594 | Size: 121.67 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Spark Plug Diagnosis (I can't remember where I found this, but I didn't create it)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
The inside back cover of any Haynes manual is another source for this info.



5.8L MotorCraft SP-415, SP-501
5.0L MotorCraft SP-450, SP-502
4.9L MotorCraft SP-435

Spark plug & coil wires should measure ~7KOhm/foot from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the terminal in the boot that slips over the spark plug.



Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:
. . . . . .

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TimingClean.jpg | Hits: 604 | Size: 70.97 KB | Posted on: 11/16/20 | Link to this image


Wire-brushing the harmonic balancer makes the timing scale easier to find. Painting the balancer (even just smearing some white paint over the scale) makes it MUCH easier to read. A big white line toward the 10-degree mark makes it easier to set with a timing light.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

5.0L/5.8L Timing Pointer F1TZ6023A/E3AZ6023A, Jegs 55550309

See also:
. . . . . . .

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DistHoldDown.jpg | Hits: 2954 | Size: 64.38 KB | Posted on: 1/25/18 | Link to this image


Smallblock Distributor Clampdown Bolt 24-33 Nm; 17-25 lb-ft

See also:


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5.8L SPOUT.jpg | Hits: 11715 | Size: 48.98 KB | Posted on: 10/2/04 | Link to this image


SPOUT, cruise servo, test connectors on '93 5.8L Bronco under the Left hood hinge.

See also:

. . .

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EngineBay93LHR.JPG | Hits: 10387 | Size: 68.23 KB | Posted on: 10/8/10 | Link to this image


'93-95 Bronco Engine Bay LHR
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This cruise servo was only used from '93-04.
Only '93-96 Broncos have 4WABS.
'96-up DLC is under the dash.

To remove the EEC, back out the 10mm bolt recessed in the center of its connector, set the connector aside, remove the 2 11mm nuts (above & below), then pull the EEC & its weather seal straight forward into the engine bay. It may be necessary to bend the plastic wheelwell liner to make room.

See also:

. . . . . . .

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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Connectors93.JPG | Hits: 9830 | Size: 77.04 KB | Posted on: 12/30/11 | Link to this image


'93-95 Bronco Connectors under the L hood hinge
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'92 & all F-series do not have the red 4WABS test connector; '96 does not have the DLC.
'94-96 trucks with cruise have the SCCDS on the master cylinder in front of the fluid reservoir; '92 cruise is vacuum-operated.

.

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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EEC Install.JPG | Hits: 12811 | Size: 93.23 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is how I fit the '95 EEC into an '82 Bronco body tub. The black connector in the middle is the DLC, which normally clips to the cowl horn.

See also:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/compare_TFIs.gif

. .

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Firewall82.jpg | Hits: 314 | Size: 53.5 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Firewall of an '82 Bronco
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This firewall was modified for an EEC and hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

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HeadlightSwBurned.jpg | Hits: 14 | Size: 176.17 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Headlight Switch Terminal B2
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This is a known problem, but still rare. It's a TERMINAL problem - not usually a switch problem. The terminal can sometimes be cleaned & reused in a replacement connector shell (by releasing each terminal & transferring it, withOUT cutting any wires), but it's sometimes necessary to cut the burned terminal off for replacement. The others can still be transferred uncut.

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PCM Inside Text.JPG | Hits: 8270 | Size: 78.96 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is what my '83 kick looks like with the '95 computer mounted in the factory '87-96 location on the '82 firewall.

See also:
. . . . . . .

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HeadlightRetainers92-96.JPG | Hits: 4311 | Size: 48.93 KB | Posted on: 8/27/10 | Link to this image


Headlight Clips '92-96
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-26048-42190.aspx

The rings on each side of the clip are designed for right-angle snap ring pliers, but it's quicker & easier to just pry the top of the clip upward. If the catches engage the slots, use a hook probe to release them, then continue prying up.

The top outboard screw is for setting the headlight's depth relative to the headlight door.

See also:
. . . .

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HeadlightGear.JPG | Hits: 2178 | Size: 51.44 KB | Posted on: 3/7/13 | Link to this image


'87-96 Headlight Tilt Gear Drive

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Crystal Headlight Conversion.jpg | Hits: 3426 | Size: 59.1 KB | Posted on: 8/3/03 | Link to this image


Crystal Headlight Conversion

They suck.

See also:

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FogLights84.jpg | Hits: 25 | Size: 67.16 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Fog Light Kit (dealer option)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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AirIntake.jpg | Hits: 24 | Size: 59.23 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Contrary to popular mythology, the 4.9L/7.5L fresh air intake is NOT inherently better than the 5.0L/5.8L duct, which is higher (less-likely to ingest water or foliage). It's blocked as much by the grill & headlight as the other design is by the hood, but neither is blocked enough to affect airflow into the engine.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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AirDucts.jpg | Hits: 22 | Size: 77.14 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


V8 Fresh Air Intakes
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

There was a minor design change in '94.

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Filter86EFI.JPG | Hits: 4589 | Size: 92.95 KB | Posted on: 8/23/07 | Link to this image


Early 5.0L EFI intake & air filter

See also:
.

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Intake86EFI.JPG | Hits: 5171 | Size: 85.65 KB | Posted on: 8/23/07 | Link to this image


Early 5.0L EFI intake & air filter

See also:
.

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ThrottleHeaterBypass.jpg | Hits: 28 | Size: 91.05 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


If the throttle heater nipples rust (due to coolant neglect), it's usually safe to simply bypass the throttle body.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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ThrottleBodyTap.jpg | Hits: 45 | Size: 78.73 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


To repair a throttle body whose heater nipples have rusted (due to coolant neglect), remove the steel nipples' remains, tap the journals, and install brass pipe hose barb fittings.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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V8PlenumT40.JPG | Hits: 2310 | Size: 115.23 KB | Posted on: 10/23/14 | Link to this image


V8 intake plenums use a T40 bolt (5/16"-18 x 1.25") in the center right position (passenger side - the photo was taken with the hood removed). Most bits are too large to fit, so either a long bit is required, or some of the casting can be ground away.

. .

The other bolts are 5/16"-18 x 1.5" with 1/2" hex head, integral washer, and ~1/2" unthreaded shank. Some have a ~1/2-long stud on the head.

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PlenumT40.jpg | Hits: 4369 | Size: 120.54 KB | Posted on: 1/29/15 | Link to this image


To make accessing the RH middle plenum bolt easier on 5.0Ls & 5.8Ls, widen the gap. Once the plenum is off, the offending tabs could be removed.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. .

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EEC93VIN.JPG | Hits: 1537 | Size: 82.89 KB | Posted on: 1/9/15 | Link to this image


'93 Bronco 5.8L EEC & VIN

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EEC93CalCodes.JPG | Hits: 5995 | Size: 57.12 KB | Posted on: 12/30/11 | Link to this image


Calibration Code Locations
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=17

To remove the EEC, it may be necessary to either buckle the plastic wheelwell down using a heavy tool, or to remove several of its screws so it hangs down, allowing the EEC to slide forward & out of the firewall into the engine bay.

I haven't found any pattern to which trucks got the A-pillar sticker, but it appears to be ONLY after '92.


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EECburned93-58E4OD-A2Z2.JPG | Hits: 6383 | Size: 64.84 KB | Posted on: 12/31/11 | Link to this image


The EEC from my '93 5.8L E4OD body donor
Note the 3 burned spots under the green/silver electrolytic capacitors.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To remove the EEC, remove the rearmost 3~4 screws (4.5mm; 7/32") from the driver's front wheelwell, bend the plastic forward (it may help to steer the tire L, or remove it), back out the 10mm bolt from the center of the EEC connector, remove the two 11mm nuts from the EEC seal, and pull the EEC straight forward out of the firewall.

Although this problem normally causes no-start & continuous fuel pump relay triggering, this one was still working OK.

See this thread:
https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=97221
To upload pics, see this one:
https://www.supermotors.net/forums/thid-5972-how-do-i-post-pictures-sounds-and-or-videos

See also:
. . . . . .

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EECburned92-58E4OD-A2Z.JPG | Hits: 16156 | Size: 54.01 KB | Posted on: 12/31/11 | Link to this image


cawright's EEC
Note the burned spots near the corner of the big chip.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To remove the EEC, remove the rearmost 3~4 screws (4.5mm; 7/32") from the driver's front wheelwell, bend the plastic forward (it may help to steer the tire L, or remove it), back out the 10mm bolt from the center of the EEC connector, remove the two 11mm nuts from the EEC seal, and pull the EEC straight forward out of the firewall.

Although this problem normally causes no-start & continuous fuel pump relay triggering, this one was still working OK.

See this thread:
https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=97221
To upload pics, see this one:
https://www.supermotors.net/forums/thid-5972-how-do-i-post-pictures-sounds-and-or-videos

See also:
. . . . . .

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ElectrolyticCaps93.jpg | Hits: 1921 | Size: 58.31 KB | Posted on: 5/21/21 | Link to this image


Electrolytic capacitors are known to leak & fail causing a wide variety of symptoms in EFI trucks up to 1993, but most commonly fuel pump running continuously at key-on with crank-no-start. Around '94, the capacitors used were a different type that don't exhibit this problem as often (yet). Fortunately, it's relatively cheap & easy to replace them at home with any cheap soldering iron, some flux-core electrical solder, and the replacement capacitors (which can be bought in overpriced kits like this or in bulk). Some paper towel or Q-tips may also be needed to clean up the leaking electrolyte.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . . . .

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EECburned92SG.jpg | Hits: 1998 | Size: 81.43 KB | Posted on: 1/9/15 | Link to this image


'92 EEC Burned, probably due to reversing polarity with jumper cables, based on the exploded diode

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DLCjumper.JPG | Hits: 20185 | Size: 53.2 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


This is a cheap & easy upgrade to any EEC-IV vehicle: a simple jumper wire twisted into the harness behind the DLC makes pulling codes or triggering the fuel pump relay quick & convenient. Scratch the terminal identifications into the plastic connector shells.

See also:

. . . . .
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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XTubeNew.JPG | Hits: 12901 | Size: 74.57 KB | Posted on: 4/26/06 | Link to this image


Crossover Tube E5TZ-9B449-C for upstream secondary air on a '94 5.8L.

. . .

The 5.0L part is E7TZ-9B449-A

The disc in the blue fuel supply line is a pulse damper intended to reduce noise.

.

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5.8L TAB.jpg | Hits: 6063 | Size: 48.68 KB | Posted on: 10/2/04 | Link to this image


Thermactor Air Bypass valve

. .

The foil-faced fabric on the L shields the HVAC vacuum reservoir on the evaporator cover.

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5.8L TAD.jpg | Hits: 11241 | Size: 50.33 KB | Posted on: 10/2/04 | Link to this image


Thermactor Air Diverter valve & other components. The IAT/ACT is barely visible behind the fuel rail in the lower L.

See also:
.

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Timing49.JPG | Hits: 16289 | Size: 59.34 KB | Posted on: 2/7/13 | Link to this image


Timing marks on the 4.9L can be confusing - I've marked the correct ones in white (green fingers) on mine so they show up easily under a timing light. Those indicated by red fingers should be ignored.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

.

V8s are set up opposite, with numbers on the balancer, and a pointer on the engine.

.

Always follow the instructions on the VECI label. Note that the correct timing setting has the large notch (10°BTDC) on the stamped steel scale.

To check if the harmonic balancer outer ring (with the timing mark) has slipped on the rubber isolator, remove the #1 spark plug (V8 RHF) and rotate the crankshaft until the pointer aligns with 0. Use a hose to blow into the spark plug hole - if it's easy, and you hear the air coming out the throttle body, rotate the crank 1 full rev back to 0, and recheck. If it's difficult (#1 compression stroke), and ALL the air comes out around the threads, drop a plastic drinking straw into the hole so it rests on the piston and rock the crankshaft gently to make sure you have the piston EXACTLY at top dead-center (straw as high as possible). Then re-check the pointer. If it's slightly off, adjust it so it's dead-on 0. If it's WAY off, replace the balancer.


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95F49oilk.jpg | Hits: 2346 | Size: 109.93 KB | Posted on: 1/16/18 | Link to this image


This truck was neglected and driven with severe oil leaks for so long that the rubber in the harmonic balancer softened, allowing the pulley to slide back & cut through the timing cover, causing even more leakage. It wasn't repaired until it was so bad that the owner was replacing a quart of oil a day, and the belt every week. The valve cover gasket, side cover gasket, both engine mounts, trans mount, & belt had to be replaced.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

A week later, he returned for a leaking radiator hose, also damaged by oil saturation.



After all these repairs, he now uses the truck to haul more weight than he should across a few states, but the truck is reliable again.

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49Lrepaint.jpg | Hits: 259 | Size: 70.18 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Repainted 4.9L Parts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

When I take parts off, I usually wash, sandblast, & repaint them factory colors more-thoroughly than the factory did using DupliColor Engine Ceramic Paints. For the debossments, I then run a belt sander over them to remove the paint, and apply clear to keep them shiny. The Ford oval on the 4.9L plenum must be protected with masking tape since it's a stamped emblem glued to the plenum & can't be belt-sanded or removed.
New Ford Gray DE1611
Aluminum Cast Coat DE1650
Clear DE1636
SemiGloss Black DE1635
Gloss Black DE1613

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4.9L_ECT.JPG | Hits: 6994 | Size: 85.6 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


'87-95 (MAP) 4.9L Components
TOP view; FRONT is LEFT

'95-96 MAF 4.9L ACT is in the air filter box.

See also:
. . . .

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TempSdr49EGR.JPG | Hits: 3630 | Size: 62.88 KB | Posted on: 7/6/12 | Link to this image


4.9L Temperature Gauge Sender Location

Looking LEFT from behind the RHF tire over the frame under the plastic wheelwell.


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InjectorBlower.JPG | Hits: 7358 | Size: 77.42 KB | Posted on: 7/23/07 | Link to this image


Injector Blower used on '87-89 4.9L only. There's a small sensor clipped to the fuel rail that triggers a module attached to the core support which controls the blower.

See also:
. .

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FanSw49L.JPG | Hits: 5273 | Size: 72.67 KB | Posted on: 4/12/08 | Link to this image


Injector Cooling Fan Switch (170 degF) for '87-89 4.9L only
STEMCO 431-5040 F170 89019A

Below 170degreesF, it's open (OFF); above, it's closed (ON). Neither wire is connected to the brass face (NOT grounded), but it can be wired up that way if necessary.

See also:
. .

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EngMtFluidPerches.jpg | Hits: 24 | Size: 39.36 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


4.9L Engine Mount Frame Perches
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Converting from the fragile, expensive, rare fluid mounts requires swapping the perches on the frame, and removing the perches from the block.

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BlockHeater49.jpg | Hits: 11 | Size: 38.82 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Block Heater Kit (fits 4.9L F-series/Bronco & possibly others)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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FanClearance.JPG | Hits: 3650 | Size: 67.54 KB | Posted on: 9/20/08 | Link to this image


Fan Clearance between a '95 4.9L & a stock brass 2-core radiator (same thickness as an Aluminum 1-core) in a Bronco/F-series.

The length of the 4.9L I6 engine leaves VERY little room for an electric fan & shroud. This pair might have come from a Contour, Focus, or Escort. A Mark VIII fan doesn't fit, even with the thinnest radiator core.

For alternator testing, see:

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EngMtsV8.JPG | Hits: 2262 | Size: 63.94 KB | Posted on: 3/7/13 | Link to this image


Engine Mount Failures on a '93 V8 Bronco

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LiftPlateV8.jpg | Hits: 1494 | Size: 131.32 KB | Posted on: 4/25/15 | Link to this image


There's no need to buy a lifting plate for an EFI V8. A scrap of angle iron, some chain, and a couple of bolts work fine. Bolt the chain between the angles, then use the gasket as a template to mark the manifold holes. Add some extra chain bolt holes to make it adjustable for balance, but a ratchet strap is easier. Route it between the top of the chain, and a solid bolt on the front of the block, or the bellhousing.

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MMO.jpg | Hits: 196 | Size: 108.31 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Marvel Mystery Oil
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

MMO is effective both as a fuel additive (as a top-end lubricant to replace Lead) and an engine-oil additive (as a high-detergent flush, safe to use frequently after the engine is reasonably clean).

.

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OilFilterFL-1A.jpg | Hits: 1165 | Size: 64.29 KB | Posted on: 2/27/18 | Link to this image


FL-1A Oil Filter fits all smallblock engines withOUT factory oil cooler (use FL-820S).
This filter is made by Purolator, but is NOT identical to any Purolator-branded filter.

Drain bolt torque: 15-25 lb-ft (I recommend Fumoto F106 for most smallblock Ford V8s or F101 for 4.9L I6)
Oil pressure: 40-60psi hot at 2000RPM
If the vehicle is used in a manner that allows it to remain stationary while the engine is running for long periods (door-to-door delivery, power/utility company trucks or similar duty), then Ford recommends increasing frequency of oil and filter changes to an interval equivalent to 200 engine hours of use. Since most vehicles are not equipped with hourmeters, it may be necessary to approximate idle time and plan oil/filter changes accordingly.

See also:
Oil Filter Comparison (navigation is not apparent - continue to "Reference Filter" or "main article" links near top of page)
BobIsTheOilGuy
The Great Synthetic Oil Fraud
Download owner's manuals FREE from Ford

. . . . . . .
____________________________________________________
SSM# 19462 OASIS MESSAGE :
SOME 1997-2007 E150/F150, 1997-2007 CROWN VIC./GRAND MARQUIS/TOWN CAR, 1997-2004 MUSTANG GT, 1997-1998 T-BIRD/COUGAR AND 2002-2005 EXPLORER/MOUNTAINEER WITH 4.6L 2V ENGINE MAY EXPERIENCE AN ENGINE TICKING OR RATTLE NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE A STUCK TAPPET (HLA). THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE DETERIORATION OF AN AFTERMARKET OIL FILTER. VEHICLES WITH THIS CONDITION HAVE LOW OIL PRESSURE AT ONE CYLINDER HEAD ONLY, WHILE MAIN PRESSURES ARE NORMAL. DISLODGED MATERIAL FROM THE AFTERMARKET OIL FILTER BLOCKS THE CAM CAP OIL PASSAGE, EITHER AT CYLINDER #4 (RIGHT BANK REAR) OR CYLINDER #5 (LEFT BANK FRONT). FORD RECOMMENDS THE USE OF FORD APPROVED FILTERS ONLY. DAMAGE TO ENGINES CAUSED BY AFTERMARKET OIL FILTERS ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
____________________________________________________
TSB 01-24-6 ENGINE - ENGINE OIL SYSTEM PRIMING PROCEDURES - SERVICE TIPS
12/10/01

FORD:1995-1997 PROBE, THUNDERBIRD
1995-2000 CONTOUR
1995-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
2000-2002 FOCUS
2002 THUNDERBIRD
1995-1996 BRONCO
1995-1997 AEROSTAR, F-250, F-350
1995-2002 E SERIES, EXPLORER, F-150, RANGER, WINDSTAR
1997-2002 EXPEDITION
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2002 EXCURSION
2001-2002 ESCAPE, EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER SPORT
LINCOLN:1995-1998 MARK VIII
1995-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
2000-2002 LS
1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY:1995-1997 COUGAR
1995-1999 TRACER
1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
1995-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
1999-2002 COUGAR1995-2002 VILLAGER
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

ISSUE: Reports of premature engine failure suggest some overhauled, new and/or remanufactured engine oil Systems are not correctly primed prior to initial engine start-up, after being installed in the vehicle. This may cause oil starvation during initial engine start-up.ACTIONPrior to starting a new, overhauled or remanufactured engine, the oil pump and oil system should be primed to eliminate the possibility of oil starvation at start-up. Refer to the following Service Information for details.

SERVICE INFORMATION: Regardless of engine design, it is extremely important that the engine oil pump is correctly primed, prior to initial engine start-up.

Overhead Cam Engines (OHC): Overhead cam engines use a G-rotor pump design and is driven by the crankshaft. If the engine is overhauled, the oil pump (prior to assembly) should be fed oil through the oil pick-up passage, prior to installing the pick-up tube and screen assembly. This can usually be accomplished by rotating the oil pump while oil is being fed into the oil pump inlet. Once the oil pump is primed, the oil pump can then be installed onto the engine.Remanufactured engines are usually cold tested before leaving the plant. As a result, the oil pump should not have to be removed from the engine and primed. Overhead cam engines, whether overhauled or remanufactured, prior to starting the engine, ensure the engine crankcase is filled to specification with engine oil. Disable the fuel supply to the fuel injectors (disable inertia fuel shut-off switch) and crank the engine in fifteen (15) second increments, until the oil pump is primed. An oil pressure gauge can be used to assist in determining when oil pressure is obtained. NOTE: ENSURE THE INERTIA FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH IS RE-ENABLED PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO START ENGINE.

Overhead Valve Engines (OHV): Overhead valve engines (push-rod type) use an oil pump driven by the camshaft via an intermediate shaft connected to the distributor or camshaft synchronizer assembly.Whether the engine is overhauled or remanufactured, the oil pump should be primed prior to starting the engine. If the engine is overhauled, ensure the crankcase is filled to specification with engine oil and using an engine oil pump priming tool kit, (commercially available) rotate oil pump until it is primed. An oil pressure gauge can be used to assist in determining when oil pressure is obtained.If a remanufactured engine is being installed, after the installation has been completed, ensure the crankcase is filled to specification with engine oil. Disable the fuel supply to the fuel injectors (disable inertia fuel shut-off switch) and crank the engine in (15) second increments, until the oil pump is primed. An oil pressure gauge can be used to assist in determining when oil pressure is obtained. NOTE ENSURE THE INERTIA FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH IS RE-ENABLED PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO START ENGINE.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 401000, 497000, 499000

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FumotoFL1A.jpg | Hits: 42 | Size: 63.59 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Oil Drain Valve (the original Fumoto like this, or the knock-off EZ Valve) makes changing the oil tool-less. As common as it is to find the instructions printed on the box or the filter label, most people don't notice or follow them. Step 1 indicates removing the filter AND its O-ring (which often adheres to the block, and is overlooked until the new filter's O-ring blows out, dumping most of the new oil). Step 2 indicates both pre-filling the filter (so the engine doesn't run dry while the pump fills it after startup, AND to make the oil level read correctly before startup); and also oiling the new O-ring so it's less-like to adhere to the block, and to allow proper tightening as steps #3&4 indicate. Step #5 indicates filling (6qt total for 4.9L, 5.0L, & 5.8L). Step #6 indicates both watching for leaks, and warming up the engine to full operating temperature. It's best to remove the dipstick (or at least slide it up in its tube a few inches) during this step so there will be no oil in the tube later. For step #7, the engine must be OFF long enough for the oil to drain back to the pan, but not so long that it cools substantially.

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FuelTreatments.jpg | Hits: 291 | Size: 120.04 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


These are the fuel treatments I trust. Berryman's will dissolve nearly anything in the tank, fuel lines, or injectors (and it's also very effective in the crankcase), and Techron has consistently been among the best fuel treatments available. I also add Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) to modern gasahol, and in the crankcase, to prevent valve stick and lifter clatter.


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IntakeBolts.jpg | Hits: 173 | Size: 104.47 KB | Posted on: 9/3/22 | Link to this image


V8 Intake Manifold Corner Bolts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The left front corner bolt is shorter than the others, and the right front has no stud on top.

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ValleyGunk.JPG | Hits: 6403 | Size: 139.16 KB | Posted on: 7/14/03 | Link to this image


The inside of a '93 5.8L with ~140,000mi. The previous owner probably used Quaker State.

Its replacement, several years later:


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3LDOHCtough.JPG | Hits: 3159 | Size: 95.76 KB | Posted on: 2/5/09 | Link to this image


Oil pan & contents from a 3.0L DOHC Sable

Note the wear on the broken piston chunks - the engine KEPT RUNNING for a loooooooong time with all that crap (& 2 valves) in the pan. ;-) The guy drove this car to the shop where I worked for diagnosis. After we gave him a quote on swapping the engine, he drove the car away. About 2 weeks later, he returned still driving to get the engine replaced.

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Sugar.jpg | Hits: 309 | Size: 43.89 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Sugar in the gas tank was NOT the reason this vehicle was being repaired, so it was very surprising to find this much in the tank & filler neck.

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EngBayClean.jpg | Hits: 297 | Size: 55.87 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Engine Bay Cleaning
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Any time the engine is out (and even when it's still in), the engine bay should be thoroughly cleaned. A pressure washer makes it quicker, but isn't required.

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Stethoscope.JPG | Hits: 10725 | Size: 119.07 KB | Posted on: 10/5/13 | Link to this image


The easiest way to find a vacuum or exhaust leak is with a mechanic's stethoscope. Remove the hard probe (which is used for listening inside hard parts) and attach an extension if necessary. 3' of common garden hose is almost as good as a real stethoscope.

An exhaust leak will sound like puffing or popping. If the tailpipe is blocked (as when stuffed with rags), it will become a hiss audible even WITHOUT the stethoscope, but ignore any leaks on the muffler or tailpipe - they're not relevant to driveability problems, and the muffler's weep holes should be tiny leaks. Exhaust leaks on the EGR system, 2ndry air system, or manifolds are VERY significant & dangerous. For better access to the manifolds, remove the wheel liner as this photo shows.

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article to learn how each one benefits the engine.

. . .

A vacuum leak is an obvious hiss on an idling engine's intake system, vacuum lines, or vacuum-operated components (including the HVAC vacuum system & brake booster which can be checked from inside the cab). The hiss near the throttle body may be the normal sound of the air rushing past the throttle plate, which is loud enough to pass through the solid metal.

5.0Ls & 5.8Ls are known to suck in the plenum gasket on the R side, creating a hard-to-find leak. They also use an odd T40 bolt in the center of the plenum, which can require grinding or a special long bit to remove/install.

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ExhManGask.jpg | Hits: 554 | Size: 104.53 KB | Posted on: 10/12/22 | Link to this image


Exhaust Manifold Gasket
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Ford didn't install gaskets on these exhaust manifolds, and neither should anyone else. They cause leaks, rust, and warping. Ford installed them with a thin layer of chassis grease which became carmelized during the first warmup like seasoned cast-Iron cookware. The modern equivalent is high-temperature silicone, and it DOESN'T take much. All the threads (in the heads, and all the nuts, bolts, & studs) must be clean, and lubricated with Nickel (hi-temp) anti-seize lubricant, which should also be applied to the flange surfaces between the manifold & Y-pipe. The long manifold-to-head bolts with stud head is 388469-S. The long bolt without stud is 381732-S. Short w/o is 392016-S4301.



Aftermarket replacement sets are also available for 5.0L/5.8L: Left Dorman 03405; Right Dorman 03407B or Dorman 03407



The manifold-to-Y-pipe studs are 391104-S2; the nuts are 375636-S7 :



For the whole process:


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ExManGasket.jpg | Hits: 392 | Size: 114.47 KB | Posted on: 5/21/21 | Link to this image


Exhaust Manifolds do not use gaskets because gaskets cause warping, cracks, leaks, & rust. Ford originally use chassis grease (which carmelized like cast-Iron cookware into a non-stick surface), but modern high-temperature silicone is at least as good. The manifolds should be planed first, though. These were sandblasted, painted inside & out with ultra-high-temp paint, and then planed.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These show the bolts, studs, & nuts:

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ExManBolts.jpg | Hits: 1672 | Size: 44.23 KB | Posted on: 5/2/15 | Link to this image


V8 Exhaust Manifold Bolts

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ExManFlgHdwr.jpg | Hits: 454 | Size: 59.39 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Exhaust Manifold Flange Hardware
Stud: 391104-S2; Nut: 375636-S7
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Nickel (high-temp) anti-seize should be applied during installation.



See also:

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AntiSeizes.jpg | Hits: 1329 | Size: 56.34 KB | Posted on: 3/28/16 | Link to this image


AntiSieze Lubricants

Aluminum is the cheapest, for most general use.

Nickel is the most-expensive, for high-temperature use like oxygen sensors & exhaust fasteners.

NONE OF THESE is an electrical grease, or a dielectric grease, or a lubricant for moving parts. They only lubricate tight fasteners so they can be loosened after long periods of being static &/or hot. They do NOT prevent corrosion or wear; they only reduce galvanic action & galling.


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LubesDoorTG.jpg | Hits: 22 | Size: 68.2 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


The correct lubricants for door & window seals & runs are dry Teflon (PTFE) and silicone (either spray or grease). They're supposed to be applied AT LEAST once a year.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
.

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ThreadInsertV8.JPG | Hits: 2924 | Size: 58 KB | Posted on: 4/26/12 | Link to this image


V8 Head Thread Inserts

These are in the bores for the upstream secondary air journals to plug the bores so they don't connect to that journal on the fronts of the heads, and to size them for the bracketry bolts.


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05Gray33.JPG | Hits: 3135 | Size: 127.98 KB | Posted on: 3/25/15 | Link to this image


V8 Water Pump Bolts from a '93 5.8L

The 2 left bolts (right in the pic) and 2 others (above & below the other journal) have 5/8" heads. The other 3 have 1/2" heads. These were all wirewheeled, thread-chased (including the block/TC threads), and painted Duplicolor New Ford Gray. The long ones going into the block have anti-seize on the threads, and will have blue threadlocker (as a sealant) under their heads.

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The bolts for a '96 are slightly different:



The old-style oil pressure sender is on a factory (older) extension.

The 1-piece nitrile oil pan gasket is attached with stock bolts & pan lip reinforcement plates.

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ExtractWPbolt.jpg | Hits: 151 | Size: 39.96 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


To make extracting a broken bolt easier, rap on it with a small hammer to vibrate the threads, and allow the penetrating oil to seep in before unscrewing it.

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WPboltBores.jpg | Hits: 12 | Size: 69.98 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Water Pump Bolt Bores
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Since the bores for the 4 long water pump bolts are blind, there should never be coolant on those bolts. It can only get there if any of the 3 gaskets has failed (usually due to coolant neglect).

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Dorman635100.jpg | Hits: 364 | Size: 75.94 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Dorman 635100 V8 Timing Cover
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This cover replaces all older serpentine 5.0L & 5.8L timing covers, including '96 with misfire sensor.

See also:

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TimingCvrGskt58L.jpg | Hits: 32 | Size: 92.49 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Timing Cover Gasket Adhesive
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The crankcase side of the gasket is un-pressurized, so oil leaks are virtually nonexistent. It's only the coolant journals that need attention, and this gasket shellac (Permatex 20539) is very effective. It goes on easily, is very durable, & dissolves with alcohol (like brake cleaner) making removal quick when needed. The bolt journals should be left un-treated so that any coolant that gets in is likely to leak out before corroding the bolts (which should be painted & anti-seized).

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WaterPump.jpg | Hits: 14 | Size: 101 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Water Pump Re-Gasket
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This truck's water pump wasn't leaking, but its gaskets were. So instead of replacing a good pump with a cheapo or a $100 Motorcraft PW254, only about $10 of gaskets were replaced (Mahle JV1034) using Permatex 20539 around the coolant journals. Since this is a '96, it has a misfire detector, and the conduit for those wires was jammed on a stud, causing a backup wrench to be needed for removal. The bolts were sandblasted, painted, & reused. The thermostat was also replaced as preventative maintenance, and the alternator bolt tab was welded back onto the heater return pipe.

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HeaterPipeC6.jpg | Hits: 227 | Size: 40.96 KB | Posted on: 4/8/22 | Link to this image


OE '93-97 Heater Return Pipe for 5.0L/5.8L w/o E4OD at Alternator
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This assembly (F3TH18C266DB) is NLA, but the hose is easy to replace with common 5/8" heater hose and a common hose clamp. The steel section has a smaller (1/4") nipple for the throttle heater return hose. If the throttle heater is already blocked off (as is common, due to rusted nipples or obstructions inside the TB), then the outlet nipple on the heater supply fitting on the intake can be capped, and this tube can be replaced with the more-common assembly (F3TH18C266CB) shown here:



If the throttle heater is still in-use when this tube fails, simply connect the throttle outlet (top nipple) to the radiator at the nipple below the overflow, as with E4OD.

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HeaterPipeRehose.jpg | Hits: 401 | Size: 57.9 KB | Posted on: 4/8/22 | Link to this image


Since this heater return pipe assembly (F3TH18C266DB) is NLA, I had no choice but to repair it, which is really easy & cheap. I used a scrap of Continental Blue Xtreme Hose from a 5003 Kit that I installed on another engine, but any quality 5/8" heater hose will do.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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TubeCleaning.jpg | Hits: 146 | Size: 53.45 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Tube Cleaning
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

If the throttle heater return tube becomes restricted by rust, it can be very difficult to restore flow. This old cable from a broken window regulator is very effective when chucked into a reversible drill, and used like a drain snake.

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CoolantReservoirSediment.jpg | Hits: 180 | Size: 69.7 KB | Posted on: 4/8/22 | Link to this image


Coolant Reservoir Sediment
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

It only takes a minute with a bent toilet brush & a garden hose to clean it inside & out. A tiny bit of soap doesn't hurt, either. Just disconnect the hose from the radiator neck nipple and let it hang as straight down as it can, into the wheelwell beside the frame.

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EngRear93B58.JPG | Hits: 2198 | Size: 61.83 KB | Posted on: 3/7/13 | Link to this image


Rear Face of a '93 5.8L

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TimingChainSlack.JPG | Hits: 12958 | Size: 64.48 KB | Posted on: 7/18/07 | Link to this image


Timing Chain Stretch
For more info about this pic:
http://www.gamefishin.com/gfboard/forum_posts.asp?TID=27394&PID=416621#416621

This is what happens when you just let one GO-o-o-o... To check it (or timing gear slop) without much disassembly, remove the distributor cap, rotate the engine forward using a socket on the crank bolt (inside the harmonic balancer pulley) and a breaker bar until the timing mark aligns with 0 degrees (TDC). Then carefully rotate it backward JUST until the rotor moves, and read the degrees from the scale.

5.0L/5.8L Timing Pointer F1TZ6023A/E3AZ6023A, Jegs 55550309
5.0L/5.8L Fuel Pump Eccentric D5AZ6287B

See also:
. . . . . . . .

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BurnedValve.JPG | Hits: 4240 | Size: 34.76 KB | Posted on: 11/14/08 | Link to this image


Burned valve from an Acura caused by an exhaust leak near the head.

See also:
.

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ThermactorAirSeparateValves.jpg | Hits: 5851 | Size: 74.91 KB | Posted on: 1/8/06 | Link to this image


Secondary Air Valves for a carburetor engine

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Check Valve.JPG | Hits: 10289 | Size: 96.45 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Secondary Air Check Valve, temperature sender for the gauge, fuel injector, flywheel

See also:
. . . .

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VacHoses94_58L.JPG | Hits: 4736 | Size: 39.76 KB | Posted on: 8/24/06 | Link to this image


The vacuum harness connector on the back of a '94 MAP 5.8L Bronco. The foreground is the vacuum tree with the updated PCV hose routing.

See also:
. . . . .

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AccessoriesV8.jpg | Hits: 5584 | Size: 95.41 KB | Posted on: 7/23/05 | Link to this image


V8 Accessories

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EmissionsV8.jpg | Hits: 20274 | Size: 85.69 KB | Posted on: 7/23/05 | Link to this image


Emissions Components on an '88 5.0L F150 w/AOD

Before madly ripping out all the emissions systems on your vehicle, read this article.



To find the vacuum map (VECI label) specific to your engine, read this caption:


For the operation of the 2ndry air system, see:
. .

Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

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EngPaint.jpg | Hits: 230 | Size: 40.74 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Engine Paint
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Any time the engine is out for repairs, any metal parts being installed (or re-installed) should be painted to slow their aging.

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VacSolValves.jpg | Hits: 147 | Size: 72.21 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Solenoid Vacuum Valves
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The colored line to the controlled device goes on the nipple closer to the electrical connector.


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EVRadapter.jpg | Hits: 20 | Size: 54.83 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


EVR Thermal Compensator
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Some early EFIs (~'87-90) have this thermistor adapter added inline at the EVR socket.

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2ndryAirInlet.jpg | Hits: 19 | Size: 85.16 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Secondary Air Intake Hose
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Commonly assumed to be disconnected, the corrugated paper foil-lined tube to the secondary air filter is just its fresh-air intake, and should be open.

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SecondryFltrBrkt93.jpg | Hits: 169 | Size: 60.74 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Secondary Air Filter/Silencer Bracket & Hose
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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02SmogPump.JPG | Hits: 12693 | Size: 89.74 KB | Posted on: 11/6/09 | Link to this image


For a full explanation of emissions system, read this article.

This is how to fix a seized air pump for nearly nothing:
1) break the three 10mm pulley bolts
2) remove the belt
3) remove the pulley bolts
4) loosen the two hose clamps (5/16", 8mm, flathead) and push the hoses back
5) remove the 9/16" (14mm) upper bolt
6) remove the 1/2" lower rear bolt
7) pry the pump case forward to open the clamp sleeve around the upper bolt hole, and remove the pump
8 ) reinstall the pulley bolts finger-tight
9) spray penetrating oil liberally into the hose nipples & the two 3/16" vent holes in the back of the case, rolling the pump to distribute the oil thoroughly; allow the oil to soak in for several minutes
IF ANY METAL CHUNKS OR FILINGS FALL OUT, replace the smog pump
10) use a propane torch to warm the case just so it's hot to the touch; don't melt any plastic or set fire to the oil
11) holding the assembly by the pulley, strike the large boss running across the bottom of the pump back & forth (sideways) to break the impeller loose of the corrosion inside; apply more oil as necessary
12) continue rotating the pump at least a full turn with the hammer; when it's loose enough, spin it by hand until it turns smoothly
13) dump as much oil as possible out of the hose nipples
14) if you plan to ford deep water, plug the vent holes with silicone rubber or RightStuff

UPDATE: After several months & a few tanks of gas, it's still working fine.
UPDATE: After a few years of intermittent use, being sandblasted & painted, it's still spinning smoothly.
.

See also:

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Air Pipe.JPG | Hits: 12007 | Size: 96.38 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


'95 4.9L I6 Y-pipe, thermactors (cats), & downstream secondary air pipe
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. . . . . .

Before madly ripping out any emissions systems, read this thread which explains how simple & effective each one is at keeping the engine running well.

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EVRadapter.jpg | Hits: 298 | Size: 74.4 KB | Posted on: 7/11/22 | Link to this image


EVR Adapter

Some early EFI EVRs included an inline thermistor for temperature compensation.

See also:
. . .

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MufFlg96.JPG | Hits: 2987 | Size: 65.24 KB | Posted on: 7/20/12 | Link to this image


'96 Bronco Catalyst-to-Muffler Flange requires obsolete gasket F6TZ-5C226-AB; not available from Ford, NAPA, Advance, CarQuest, O'Reilly, Walker

. .

So I wirewheeld & planed the surface, and bolted it up using high-temperature red silicone.

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Solenoids.jpg | Hits: 13987 | Size: 95.24 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Emissions components on an early EFI.

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AuxBattConn.JPG | Hits: 5108 | Size: 57.64 KB | Posted on: 6/21/08 | Link to this image


Auxilliary Battery Locations

Trucks with electrical options EXCEPT the aux battery got a plastic-mounted threaded junction post instead of the relay. Most trucks got nothing (like the one shown).

The Y wire ties into the auxilliary lighting circuit (Y and Bk/Y) at a heavy splice inside the dash harness, OR (early) directly to the battery through a Br fusible link at the starter relay.

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The continuous-duty relay (metal case) mounts at the 2 factory dimples in the firewall, and is triggered by a Wh/Pu wire that taps off the back of the fuse block & passes through its own rubber grommet in the firewall.



The aux battery hot wire (R) runs inside the L fender to the optional aux. battery tray, similar to the '87-96 diesel tray shown here:



This option was not available after '86 because of the EFI air filter's location, except on '87 351ci (carb).

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PwrPt.jpg | Hits: 160 | Size: 58.38 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Power Point
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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MCU83a.JPG | Hits: 4520 | Size: 14.68 KB | Posted on: 11/14/08 | Link to this image


Rare location of early engine control computer above gas pedal. It's an early cell phone pic, but it's the large black & white connector with a bolt in the middle just below the rusty bracket. It's directly above the gas pedal.

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York A/C compressor & Saginaw power steering pump on an '82 E150 302ci

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YorkSpeedoOil.jpg | Hits: 8240 | Size: 93.96 KB | Posted on: 7/15/03 | Link to this image


Speedometer Gear, York Compressor, & Oil Pressure Sender for V8



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 89-02-07 Speedometer Accuracy

Publication Date: JANUARY 25, 1989

FORD: 1989 and prior ALL CAR LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1989 and prior ALL CAR LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL TRUCK LINES
MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK LINES

ISSUE: The accuracy of speedometer/odometer readings may be influenced by several vehicle components or systems. The information in this TSB article is intended to assist technicians in speedometer/odometer concern diagnosis.

ACTION: Use the following supplemental information to assist in speedometer/odometer diagnostics.

OPERATION: A mechanical analog speedometer displays vehicle speed and the odometer displays total distance traveled. The speedometer/odometer assembly is cable driven by either a transmission or a transaxle. All speedometer/odometer assemblies, except for police vehicles are the same with respect to the speed accuracy tolerance used during calibration. The odometer gear ratio is fixed so that all are identical and have no error in the speedometer head.

Electronic digital operation is similar. It could use a drive cable or a speed sensor to drive the speedometer/odometer. An electronic signal is sent from a speed sensor to the digital speedometer/odometer assembly. The speed sensor is driven by a transmission or a transaxle, similar to a cable.

Several areas of concern that may affect speedometer/odometer readings are tires, axle gear ratio and speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears.

TIRES: Improper tire rolling radius and inflation pressure, temperature and size may contribute to inaccurate system readings. System accuracy testing should be performed after the tires are set at the correct pressure as shown on the safety compliance certification label. The tire should be warmed for a short period. Best results are obtained on smooth, dry pavement while driving at a constant speed within the posted speed limit.

AXLE/TRANSAXLE RATIO: The gear ratio of the rear axle or the final drive ratio of the transaxle must be known to select or check if the proper speedometer/odometer drive and driven gears are present. Various gear ratios are available, but usually are not a concern when dealing with speedometer/odometer concerns unless the gear ratio has been changed.
WARNING: NEVER CORRECT SPEEDOMETER READINGS BY CHANGING GEARS UNLESS THE ODOMETER IS ALSO OFF.

DRIVE/DRIVEN GEARS: The speedometer/odometer drive gear is located inside the transmission, transaxle or transfer case and is not easily accessed for change. The driven gear rotates the speedometer cable. Rear wheel drive vehicles have several driven gears with various numbers of teeth available to correct input to the speedometer/odometer head. Front wheel drive vehicles generally do not offer different gears for correction.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The maximum allowable odometer system accuracy error is ± 3.75% of the actual distance traveled. Ford Motor vehicles are well within those limits.

The speed indication is biased high, except on police vehicles with certified calibration speedometers/odometers. As a general rule, the indicated speed is equal to or greater than the actual speed. This is intended to protect the consumer against violating speed laws. Most customer concerns are related to speedometers reading too high at true speeds between 50 MPH and 65 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h). At that speed range, the worst case errors may indicate a speed that is 10% greater than true speed.

The speedometer head is an instrument which processes information sent to it by the rotating speedometer cable. If the system components send the wrong number of revolution per mile to the speedometer head, an inaccurate speed reading and amount of distanced traveled will be displayed. Since there is no error in the fixed gear ratio of the speedometer head odometer, start by checking the accuracy of the odometer even if the customer concern indicates a speed accuracy problem. Odometer accuracy can be checked by using roads established at mile increments or a known local course. If roads with mile markers are used, a five mile stretch is recommended to allow for inaccuracies. If an error is greater than 3.75%, a change to the transmission drive/driven gear selection, tire size, or tire inflation may need attention. The odometer should be checked again to verify any corrective action. If the indicated speed error exceeds 10% between 50 MPH and 60 MPH (80 - 105 Km/h), replace the speedometer/odometer assembly. Vehicles with transfer cases that have fluctuating readings may be due to slippage of drive gears, parts not splined or loose yoke nuts.

If the vehicle has speed control, the speed accuracy can be checked using the verified odometer vs. time. The formula is as follows:
3600 divded by TIME (seconds to cover one mile) = TRUE MPH(Km/h)

EXAMPLES:
60 MPH (96 Km/h) requires 60 seconds to cover one mile
55 MPH (88 Km/h) requires 65 and 3/4 seconds to cover one mile
50 MPH (80 Km/h) requires 72 seconds to cover one mile

SUPERSEDES: 84-14-06
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY

. .

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YorkVV8.JPG | Hits: 2136 | Size: 101.29 KB | Posted on: 1/22/13 | Link to this image


York Compressor on V8 w/V-belt

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RecircLine.JPG | Hits: 19460 | Size: 51.24 KB | Posted on: 11/9/09 | Link to this image


If MAX A/C only blows out the defrost registers, or if it switches to defrost during hard acceleration, or if the doors move after the engine is shut off, this vacuum line (to the recirculate motor) is the reason. The white plastic is far more susceptible to UV light than any other color, and the gap along the edge of the hood allows it to degrade.

This repair also works for the other hard vacuum lines on the engine. Colored silicone tubing has become an affordable option to keep the factory colors and eliminate future maintenance. Shop eBay, Amazon, Jeg's, Summit, etc.

.

Another common failure is for the coffee-can vacuum reservoir to crack and leak, but it affects more than just MAX A/C.



For more info, see:

. .

If the blower doesn't move much air even at high speed out ANY of the registers, check the squirrel cage for damage & the evaporator core for blockage.

. .

If the blower only works on HI, see this:

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ACDelete.JPG | Hits: 12442 | Size: 94.45 KB | Posted on: 11/22/09 | Link to this image


The entire A/C refrigerant system can be removed (or INSTALLED) as a unit from all '80-96 gasoline (& probably diesel) F-series & Broncos without much trouble. The fan & shroud have to come out so the radiator can tilt back, and the belt has to come off, of course. But no coolant, refrigerant, or other fluid lines have to be opened.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



If you're just cleaning the evaporator core, nothing else needs to be removed.



See also:

. . . . .

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AC95B58.JPG | Hits: 4334 | Size: 143.4 KB | Posted on: 8/28/13 | Link to this image


SOLD Complete charged A/C system from a '95 5.8L EB Bronco.

.

Note that the parallel-flow condenser is flipped just because it was easier to set the whole mess down that way.

I found this in a JY, removed it by myself in a few minutes, hauled it home, and sold it to a local '95 F150 owner. He drove to my house that day (note the upload date under the photo), and it was installed & working in his truck less than an hour after he arrived. AFAIK, it's still working because he hasn't come back.

R-134a service ports use rubber balls (which are easily cut) instead of Schraeder valves; the conversion fittings are F3AZ-19E762-A & F3AZ-19E762-B.

To install this R134a system in a pre-'94 truck, the hood latch support must also be swapped to the '94-97 design.



This shows the variations in wiring over the years:


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Hood Latch Support differences mean that the '94-97 HFC134a parallel-flow condenser does not fit behind the older support. But either condenser fits behind the later support.

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AC49.JPG | Hits: 3644 | Size: 86.63 KB | Posted on: 7/6/12 | Link to this image


4.9L Air Conditioning System

Only PART of this R-12 condenser has parallel flow (between the 3-way joints on the driver's side), but this is NOT a parallel-flow (R-134a) condenser.

This is a mixed-&-matched system. The condenser might be '83; the liquid line certainly is '83; the evaporator could be almost any year '80-93; the accumulator & low pressure switch are the R-12 types; the compressor, shutoff valves, & (repaired) hoses are '88. R-134a service ports use rubber balls (which are easily cut) instead of Schraeder valves; the conversion fittings are F3AZ-19E762-A & F3AZ-19E762-B.

Like all '80-96 F-series/Bronco systems, it can be removed & installed while fully sealed & charged.

.

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AChoseInsulation.jpg | Hits: 386 | Size: 47.63 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


A/C Hose Insulation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

At this age, it's very common for the refrigerant suction hose insulation to degrade. It's very difficult to remove thoroughly, but a pressure washer (or coin-op car wash) makes short work of it. Common hardware-store split-seam sponge insulation is inexpensive & easy to apply, and a near-perfect match.

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AccumulatorR12.JPG | Hits: 3122 | Size: 95.81 KB | Posted on: 11/12/12 | Link to this image


Accumulator-Dryer Guts

This desiccant is not as resilient as later compositions, so an R-12 accumulator should be replaced any time the system remains open for more than an hour or so. It cannot be "dried".

An R-134a dryer is very similar, but its improved desiccant means that it can be reused indefinitely, IF the pellets stay inside, and there is no obvious contamination. Holding a vacuum on it for ~30 minutes near a warm engine will remove all the moisture from it.


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ACValves.JPG | Hits: 3464 | Size: 70.58 KB | Posted on: 4/17/09 | Link to this image


A/C Valves used on some '87-91 compressors. They should always be open (UNscrewed). To operate them, unscrew the black covers from the valve stems, and use a square-drive wrench to turn the stems.

Each valve's inlet is the same as its outlet, so if there's enough slack in the lines, the valves can be deleted. Their only function is to keep refrigerant in the system while the compressor is being changed. But if the compressor needs to be changed, the system needs to be evacuated, flushed, repaired, vacuumed, and professionally recharged. So the valves are actually useless.

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EvapLines.JPG | Hits: 2431 | Size: 59.11 KB | Posted on: 5/9/13 | Link to this image


Evaporator Line Differences

R-12 liquid lines are routed directly from the condenser outlet to the evaporator inlet (high), and are plastic. The corresponding R-134a line is thick-walled soft Aluminum tube routed low along the wheelwell.

.

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ScrapTool.JPG | Hits: 2996 | Size: 62.59 KB | Posted on: 2/19/13 | Link to this image


Garter Spring Tool

I made this in a junkyard when I discovered I didn't have the tools to remove a fuel line. Fortunately, I had some tin snips & needle-nose pliers, and I found a piece of Aluminum that worked perfectly. I still keep it in my tool bag. It can be quickly resized to fit almost any connection, and if it ever breaks or gets lost, I'll just make another.

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Evaps.JPG | Hits: 2674 | Size: 63.61 KB | Posted on: 4/30/13 | Link to this image


Evaporator Core Differences

.

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Orifice Tube Removal

The red plastic indicates this orifice is sized for R134a; the older R12 orifice was molded in blue.

See also:
.

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08Parts.JPG | Hits: 8247 | Size: 125.88 KB | Posted on: 11/22/09 | Link to this image


A/C System Components (late R-12 system shown)

Separate suction & discharge hoses were used until ~'92. Mid-years (~'86-90) used square-drive shutoff valves at the compressor ports. Early models ('80~84) used an automatic shutoff valve & filter in the connection between the condenser & the condenser-to-evaporator hose. '94-96 R-134a systems use an all-Aluminum hard condenser-to-evaporator line, narrower spacing on the tubes of a slightly-smaller evaporator, and a parallel-flow condenser with rubber air flaps along each side of the grill. R-134a service ports use rubber balls (which are easily cut) instead of Schraeder valves; the conversion fittings are F3AZ-19E762-A & F3AZ-19E762-B.

The low pressure switch screws onto an automatic valve on the accumulator, and the threads are different for each refrigerant.

R-134a models have a hi-press. cutout switch on the discharge hose.

. . . . .

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FinStr.jpg | Hits: 2001 | Size: 73.9 KB | Posted on: 9/29/15 | Link to this image


Straightening condenser fins with a pick is an agonizingly-slow & tedious job. But it's the only way to restore the radiator's function without buying a new condenser. If this one had had more flattened fins (as by pressure-washing), I probably would have scrapped it.



See also:



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Blower Repairs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Occasionally, the blower needs maintenance that's not mentioned in the manual. The squirrel cage needs to be washed (to remove dirt, fungus, mold, hair, lint, etc. that may cause imbalance); the evaporator core fins need to be cleaned (of the same things, using a brush if light, or garden hose & shop vac if heavy); and the motor bushings need to be oiled (I use motor oil diluted with penetrating oil for a few hours on one side, then flip & add more for the other).

See also:
. . . . . . . . . .

To prevent it from happening again, read this & the NEXT 9 pages:


GO TO THE NEXT SEVERAL PAGES...

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This is an extreme case, but all evaporators collect trash & dirt. With the evaporator out of its housing like this, it's easy to vacuum it off and then hose it out. Be careful not to fold the fins over.



Note that this system is still fully assembled & charged with refrigerant. There is no need to vent refrigerant for this or many other operations. The complete refrigerant system can be removed/installed while fully assembled & charged.

To prevent reoccurrence, add screens to the fresh air intake under the wiper valance. To keep leaves out of the passenger side (where the HVAC intake is) and force them to the unused driver's-side drain, add screen at the top, just below the wiper valance:
. .

To keep leaves out of the ventilation system, add screen inside the cowl by removing the wiper valance & working through the rubber plug under the antenna:


See also:
. . . . . .

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EvapInsltn.jpg | Hits: 470 | Size: 57.64 KB | Posted on: 3/13/21 | Link to this image


Evaporator Insulation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This foil-faced bubble wrap replaces the older foil bag of fiberglass, which always degrades & collects water. But it's necessary to prevent heat damage to the evaporator cover (which includes the HVAC vacuum reservoir), and to keep exhaust heat from counteracting the A/C. It's even more important with headers (which radiate MUCH more heat than manifolds), but this probably won't stand up to headers.

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EvapIns.JPG | Hits: 5478 | Size: 88.84 KB | Posted on: 2/4/13 | Link to this image


The factory foil-faced fiberglass insulation deteriorates, leaving the vacuum reservoir & cold-air duct exposed to the exhaust manifold heat. This modern bubble-foil insulation should be more-effective & -durable. After several years now, the 3M Super 77 has stood up to engine-bay temperatures, chemicals, & weather surprisingly well.

. .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 93-8-13 Replacement A/C Vacuum Reservoir

Publication Date: APRIL 14, 1993

LIGHT TRUCK: 1992-93 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES

ISSUE: The vacuum tank for the heater or heater/air conditioning controls is sonically welded to the side of the heater or evaporator case. If a vacuum leak occurs at the vacuum tank, a different vacuum tank can be used to make the repair without removing the old vacuum tank.

ACTION: Install a new service vacuum tank. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. In the engine compartment, detach the vacuum hose from the sonically welded vacuum tank on the heater or evaporator case.
2. Attach the replacement vacuum tank (F3TZ-19D848-A) in a conveniently located spot that can be reached by the vacuum hose. Several areas are available:
a. On the old sonically welded tank, drill an appropriate size hole in the old vacuum tank and use a self-tapping screw to attach the new replacement vacuum tank. The replacement vacuum tank (F3TZ-19D848-A) has slots which will accept the screws.
b. Attach the replacement vacuum tank and put on the vacuum hose.
3. If the old tank mount location is not suitable, locate an existing screw on the blower case and put the replacement vacuum tank (F3TZ-19D484-A) with its slotted bracket in a position over the screw.
a. Make sure of the following points:
* There is room for the tank.
* The vacuum hose will reach it.
* The replacement tank can be attached with that screw.
b. If necessary, rework the slot on the replacement vacuum tank so the screw will fit through it.
c. Attach the replacement vacuum tank and put on the vacuum hose.
4. Verify that the system operates properly.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F3TZ-19D848-A Vacuum Tank

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
930813A Install Replacement Vacuum Tank 0.3 Hr.

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LowPrSw.JPG | Hits: 1899 | Size: 118.73 KB | Posted on: 9/8/14 | Link to this image


The guts of an A/C low-pressure (clutch-cycling) switch

The color distinction refers to the ACCUMULATOR/drier's threads; not the refrigerant itself. The plastic threads in the switch base are sized for each type of accumulator. If using an R12 accumulator in a system converted to R134a, use the R12 switch to match the accumulator, but adjust its pressure point to ~22psi using the procedure in this TSB:


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Blower Resistors



It's fairly easy to remove the evaporator core WITHOUT VENTING ANY REFRIGERANT to clean this area. There's an 11mm (7/16") nut in the passenger footwell and several 8mm-5/16" screws (visible) that hold the evaporator cover on the blower housing.

. .

See also:
. . . . .

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TempDoor.JPG | Hits: 6021 | Size: 78.58 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is under the hood looking rearward over the R wheelwell with the evaporator cover removed beside the R exhaust manifold.

See also:
. . . . .

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HVACseal.JPG | Hits: 1384 | Size: 115.42 KB | Posted on: 9/22/14 | Link to this image


This gasket between the evaporator housing & the cowl was installed wrong at the factory ~20 years ago. It's too dried now to be repositioned, so it will have to be replaced with new foam.

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CoreDrain.JPG | Hits: 3880 | Size: 56.9 KB | Posted on: 12/19/12 | Link to this image


The drain for the HVAC system serves both the inside (heater core) box, and any spillover from the outside (evaporator) box.

The vertical part above my hand is the rear edge of the temperature blend door, where objects that fall into the defrost ducts often collect. It's operated by the cable & lever out-of-frame at the top. Many '92-95 trucks were retrofitted with the '96 dual (pull-pull) cable.

. . .

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Register.jpg | Hits: 360 | Size: 52.33 KB | Posted on: 12/28/21 | Link to this image


'92-96 Dash Register Repair
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1) This is a common problem with these registers - someone jams a finger between the 3rd fin & another, and the peg shears off leaving the master fin independent of the slave fins (which still move together). Normally, I salvage a master fin from another register with different damage, but I wanted to see how hard it is to repair one.
2) By gently bending the fin and pushing to one side, its pivot peg can be removed from the hole on the other side.
3) If necessary, extract the remains of the sheared peg.
4) I found that a 1/16" drill bit is too large, but I found this smaller carbide burr to be a good fit. I eyeballed it to make a ~1/8" deep hole in the damaged fin.
5) This soft wire is about the same size, so I bent it to make a handle with enough length to protect my fingers as I heated it with a torch & then inserted it in the plastic.
6) After it cooled, I cut the wire off flush with the fin's edge.
7) I inserted the repaired end into the 2 holes first, then set the vertical fins & slide to match each other, bent the master fin, and re-inserted its other pivot.

It's working smoothly so far.

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87 HVAC.jpg | Hits: 3467 | Size: 60.25 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


SOLD HVAC in-dash ducts & control panel for 1987-early 88 F-series & Bronco (with 4 slide knobs & central A/C button)

Actual size: 34x16x10", 10.1 lbs

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87 HVACa.jpg | Hits: 3737 | Size: 67.42 KB | Posted on: 11/28/04 | Link to this image


SOLD HVAC in-dash ducts & control panel for 1987-early 88 F-series & Bronco (with 4 slide knobs & central A/C button)

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BlendCable87.JPG | Hits: 2975 | Size: 57.03 KB | Posted on: 12/30/11 | Link to this image


'87-91 Temperature Blend Cable

It's common for the cable to slip out of the adjuster clip, resulting in no response to the temperature slider. This is the TOP of the box, so the camera is on the passenger side, and the driver is toward the top of the pic.

See also:
. . . . . . . . . . .

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Thermst-RT1139.jpg | Hits: 22 | Size: 42.41 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Genuine thermostats are still available, and affordable. The rated temperature is 192°F.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Motorcraft RT1139
Ford %u200EXR3Z8575BA

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CoolantNeglect.jpg | Hits: 1127 | Size: 106.02 KB | Posted on: 11/30/18 | Link to this image


Top - EXPENSIVE
Bottom - affordable

This truck's coolant has been neglected to the point that all the rust in the system blocked up the heater core. It took about 20 minutes with a garden hose blasting back & forth into each heater hose to unplug it, and rinse out something that looked like baby vomit.

. .

THEN, we used the water pump (whose impeller had not yet rusted away) to empty & flush the rest of the cooling system out of the open heater hose nipples, while refilling the radiator continuously with tap water (which is when the top pic was taken). After that ran reasonably-clear, the tap water was stopped so it could pump most of that out before dumping the lower hose, and then refilling with concentrate & distilled water. These trucks need about 2 gallons of each (concentrate & water).

For the correct coolant type, follow the "Quick Reference Charts" link on this page:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/

Ready-mixed (50/50) coolant is MUCH more expensive & lower-quality than concentrate plus distilled water. You can see from these prices that 2 gallons of coolant (1 concentrate plus 1 distilled) will cost me $11.69. I couldn't even get 1 gallon of ready-mix for that.

NEVER buy "long-life" coolant - it doesn't last as long as normal-life. The "long-life" label only applies to its antifreeze/antiboil characteristic - not to all the OTHER chemistry, which is what really matters.

See also:
.

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7-BladeV8s.jpg | Hits: 399 | Size: 78.63 KB | Posted on: 5/10/20 | Link to this image


7-blade fans are good to swap onto trucks that originally had 5-blade fans. These are '95 F250 5.8Ls, which will also fit 5.0Ls. The 4.9L takes different fans & clutches.


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TstatChrome.jpg | Hits: 184 | Size: 43.54 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Chrome
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Not only does it NOT get ya home, it usually indicates extremely low-quality parts that won't last long. This one actually did damage to the intake manifold, taking some cast Iron off as the chromed garbage rotted away.

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Rust Removal
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Even without a sandblaster, rust can be effectively removed from parts that can be submerged in water. For larger parts, use a plastic kiddie pool.

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PresTest.JPG | Hits: 1605 | Size: 108.57 KB | Posted on: 9/19/14 | Link to this image


Cooling System Pressure Test

After filling the system absolutely full (no air), and checking every connection for proper closure & clamp tightness, install a pressure tester and apply as much pressure as the cap is designed to hold. It may be necessary to leave it overnight before enough liquid escapes to find the leak. Or it may be necessary to pump it up several times, if the liquid is collecting in a hidden pocket on the engine or frame. It may even be necessary to use a stethoscope (probe removed) to listen for the hissing or gurgling.

Don't forget to check the heater core, and its drain from the firewall.


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Bore Plug Replacement
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

It took longer to find this rusted bore plug than to replace it.

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Bore Plugs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After years of coolant neglect, this truck's bore plugs had rusted away, and several had been replaced badly with rubber expanding plugs. Then the coolant continued to be neglected, until it was undriveable, and some of the bores were permanently damaged. So to repair them correctly, the engine was cleaned, pulled, & cleaned again. The bores that were badly eroded got new plugs with JBWeld instead of Hylomar.

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HeaterValve.JPG | Hits: 2659 | Size: 43.74 KB | Posted on: 6/9/13 | Link to this image


Explorer Heater Bypass Valve

With a little creative vacuum-line routing, this valve is easy to retrofit to any vehicle not originally equipped, so as to keep heat out of the cab, and out of the A/C airstream during summer, while still allowing full coolant flow past the temperature sender & the ECT. Set it up so that without vacuum applied, coolant flow is normal; and with vacuum (spliced into the white recirculate door line), it's in bypass.


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FenderFillers.JPG | Hits: 1843 | Size: 70.35 KB | Posted on: 12/19/12 | Link to this image


These foam fillers are often lost, and may have only been used on high-trim trucks. The plastic face is fairly robust, but the adhesive between it & the foam doesn't last. Note that the fillers are punched L & R near the bottom. Modern automotive spray adhesive (like 3M 66 or 77) can be used to re-attach the clear facings to the foam.

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CowlDrain.JPG | Hits: 7214 | Size: 70.25 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is where leaves build up, on both sides of the truck. They come thru the wiper valance slots ('80-86) and between the windshield & its lower trim (all). This valve is more easily accessed by removing the 5.5mm (7/32") screws from the edge of the wheelwell (harder with running boards), but expect a face full of rotten leaves & bugs if you work from below. Lucky owners will find live ants.

.

It's easy to remove the evaporator (WITHOUT venting any refrigerant) and wash it out for better airflow, better cooling, and fewer odors.



To keep leaves out of the passenger side (where the HVAC intake is) and force them to the unused driver's-side drain, add screen at the top, just below the wiper valance:
. .

To keep leaves out of the ventilation system, add screen inside the cowl by removing the wiper valance & working through the rubber plug under the antenna:


See also:
. . . . .

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CowlDrainPacked.JPG | Hits: 3623 | Size: 83.21 KB | Posted on: 1/1/12 | Link to this image


Cowl drains need to be cleaned periodically because rotting leaves, dirt, insects, & fungus build up in them. This shows one with the fender removed, but they can be accessed by removing a few of the 7/32" (5.5mm) screws along the lip of the wheelwell just behind the front tire. Or if the wiper valance is removed (or through the antenna hole), they can sometimes be blasted out from above with a garden hose, but on the R side, it may splash mud into the HVAC blower.



To prevent reoccurrence, add screens to the fresh air intake under the wiper valance. To keep leaves out of the passenger side (where the HVAC intake is) and force them to the unused driver's-side drain, add screen at the top, just below the wiper valance:
. .

To keep leaves out of the ventilation system, add screen inside the cowl by removing the wiper valance & working through the rubber plug under the antenna:


See also:

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Leaves.jpg | Hits: 14061 | Size: 74.76 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This shows where leaves build up in '80-96 truck ductwork. If they build up around the resistors (green), the entire truck can catch fire if the motor (yellow) is NOT at full speed all the time.



The red pointer is where the cowl drain boot should be.
. .

It's easy to remove the evaporator (WITHOUT venting any refrigerant) and wash it out for better airflow, better cooling AND heating, and fewer odors.


To keep leaves out of THIS side and force them to the unused driver's-side drain, add screen at the top, just below the wiper valance:
. .

To keep leaves out of the ventilation system, add screen inside the cowl by removing the wiper valance & working through the rubber plug under the antenna:


See also:


The S-style upper door hinge spring, ball HVAC vacuum reservoir, and remote blower motor connector indicate that this is an early-80s truck. It also has the rare 3-screw 2-position door mirrors (not visible).

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ACdumdum.jpg | Hits: 293 | Size: 61.46 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


DumDum
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I don't know the actual name of this sealant, but it's commonly used on automotive HVAC systems. Every technician & parts guy I know calls it dumdum.

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TackyTape.JPG | Hits: 3058 | Size: 39.79 KB | Posted on: 5/3/12 | Link to this image


Tacky Tape is effective as an air conditioning duct sealant, body sealant, and temporary adhesive. It's for sealing the panels of metal buildings (roof & wall), but it's also used for temporarily hanging things on walls (like posters). So it can sometimes be found with school supplies, or in the attics of metal buildings, or at metal building suppliers.
http://tacky-tape.com/products/butyl-sealants/sm5227/

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Wiper Valance 2.JPG | Hits: 5374 | Size: 116.24 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This shows the differences in the '87-91 & '92-96 (F6TZ15022A68AA) wiper valances. The '80-86 valance is just like the '87-91, but it has slots which allow leaves to pass through, instead of the pinholes. I didn't notice the difference until after I paid a pro to paint the newer one because I wanted the newer sprayers on my '83.


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Fender Shims.jpg | Hits: 1616 | Size: 143.81 KB | Posted on: 9/22/14 | Link to this image


Ford used cardboard shims between the fenders & cowl horns.

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CowlPlugs.jpg | Hits: 241 | Size: 53.21 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Cowl Top Plugs
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The left (driver's) plug was not used until '96 (as indicated by the F6 prefix) but fits '80-96/7.

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CowlScreen97.jpg | Hits: 45 | Size: 83.47 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Cowl Screen
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To exclude both leaves from above & rodents from below, add a screen inside the cowl across the fresh-air intake for the blower.

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BodyAlignmentCS.jpg | Hits: 163 | Size: 77.86 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Core Support Alignment
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Even without removing the front bumper, it's easy to see if the core support is offcenter on the frame.

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Shocks.jpg | Hits: 7414 | Size: 67.58 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


These 3 PNs are the ones used for '80-96 trucks with quad front shocks. But they're only available from Gabriel now (the actual manufacturer), and CQ doesn't honor the warranty anyway.

The Gabriel numbers in 2014 are:
G63410 - front quad
G63414 - front
G63409 - rear

.

Before buying craptasmic shocks or other common parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

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GabrielG63410.jpg | Hits: 1291 | Size: 28.96 KB | Posted on: 10/23/14 | Link to this image


This shock fits the front front of quad front shock suspensions at stock height, and includes a replacement lower stud (which I've never needed).

Quad front-front G63410 (replaces Ford F4TA18045PA)
Standard front G63414 (replaces Ford F4TA18045VA)
Standard rear G63409 (replaces Ford F4TA18080VA)

I prefer to replace the supplied rubber bushings with black Energy poly bushings before installation.


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Shock Studs.jpg | Hits: 4412 | Size: 29.1 KB | Posted on: 9/27/04 | Link to this image


Front front shock studs, included in the Gabriel & CarQuest boxes.



Available separately as:
Dorman/Help! 31001 Shock Bolt Kit (includes rubber bushings)
NAPA 650-1100 Shock Bolt & Bushing Kit

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ShocksGabEnergy.jpg | Hits: 80 | Size: 75.41 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Shock Bushings (black Energy poly)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Even new shocks benefit from black Energy poly bushings, which can also be transferred to any replacement shocks.

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ShockEyePoly.jpg | Hits: 238 | Size: 76.88 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Shock Eye Bushings
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Even on new shocks, polyurethane bushings are an improvement, and they can be reused when the shocks wear out.

.

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CoilPerches4WDcmpr.jpg | Hits: 21 | Size: 97.02 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Anti-Sway Bar End Link Attachments
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The 1-piece cast coil perch with integral sway bar attachment is more common than the stamped plate under the coil perch.

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TIB warning.jpg | Hits: 25 | Size: 134.98 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Not for nothing, I-beams are marked with the warning "DO NOT BEND - HEAT OR WELD".

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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BsBars.jpg | Hits: 1407 | Size: 37.94 KB | Posted on: 4/26/15 | Link to this image


Bull... Bars
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

How much are you willing to pay for them? Note the comically-flimsy attachments to the bumper skin (which has no strength itself), and the missing hardware for the lower tube, which has been replaced by another flimsy L-bracket & 4 screws. The light tabs are single-hole conduit clamps that have been hammered open.

But even if everything was still assembled as-designed, it's just a cosmetic bar - it's not actually built to push anything.

.

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BSbar2.jpg | Hits: 661 | Size: 99.81 KB | Posted on: 1/16/18 | Link to this image


This is barely strong enough to hold the lights up - much less actually running into trees, or even tall grass.

.

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BSbar3.jpg | Hits: 470 | Size: 75 KB | Posted on: 7/21/19 | Link to this image


This is what happens when a cosmetic part gets used for what it's supposed to LOOK like.

. .

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BSBar4.jpg | Hits: 271 | Size: 43.43 KB | Posted on: 4/4/21 | Link to this image


Even bars with tough-sounding names are collapsible. This one still pushed the bumper into the body - something that probably wouldn't have happened without the bar.

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Bumpr08F450.jpg | Hits: 506 | Size: 66.67 KB | Posted on: 1/27/19 | Link to this image


The original bumper would have worked better - it wouldn't have stuck out so far that it hit as many things, and the factory recovery eyes would have been available.

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HoodLatch.jpg | Hits: 190 | Size: 32.38 KB | Posted on: 11/7/21 | Link to this image


'92-96 Hood Latch Operation ('80-91 similar)

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HoodLatchSpring.jpg | Hits: 123 | Size: 24.01 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Hood Latch Spring
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

If the hood jams, it may be due to the spring inside the hood working its way behind the latch on the core support.

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SwayBarFcompare.JPG | Hits: 2148 | Size: 75.09 KB | Posted on: 1/16/13 | Link to this image


Despite the changes in frame contours & mounting points, the '93 Bronco front sway bar is identical to the '83.


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Sway Bracket.jpg | Hits: 3869 | Size: 71.93 KB | Posted on: 8/16/03 | Link to this image


Pre-'92 sway bar attached to front crossmember. '92-96s are attached similarly.


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ExtendedRadiusArms.JPG | Hits: 1220 | Size: 66.84 KB | Posted on: 1/9/15 | Link to this image


Extended Radius Arms on a '94 Bronco I saw around 2000

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D44-50.jpg | Hits: 270 | Size: 96.01 KB | Posted on: 3/13/21 | Link to this image


Dana 44IFS vs. 50IFS TTB comparison

. .

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Alignment.jpg | Hits: 619 | Size: 74.98 KB | Posted on: 3/15/19 | Link to this image


This is among the best alignment machines available today, and the road-force balancer behind it is also very good. The device clamped to the tire is the optical target for the camera inside the LED star on the machine's T-head. About 3x per second, the 2 cameras & LED stars on each side alternate flashing to measure their respective targets, on each wheel.


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CamberXtract.jpg | Hits: 421 | Size: 62.53 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Camber Cam Extraction
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After throwing my shoulder out for 2 months beating on an F250 upper ball joint, I figured out this better, quicker, easier, healthier method to extract these cams.
Moog K80108
ACDelco 45K6526
McQuay/Norris AA3951

See also:
. . .

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RadiusArmBolts.jpg | Hits: 144 | Size: 65.12 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Radius Arm Bolt Removal
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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D50.JPG | Hits: 5112 | Size: 85.02 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Dana 50IFS axles can be differentiated from D44IFSs by the "50" cast into the third member, and the leaf spring suspension. Some D44IFS-HDs were leaf-sprung.

.

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SwissCheeseFrame_Sliders.jpg | Hits: 5355 | Size: 62.64 KB | Posted on: 11/9/05 | Link to this image


Swiss-Cheese Frame: '80-81 only
Sliding Side Windows: '80-82 only
Chrome Horse Emblems: '80-82 only
Type 1 Swingaway: '80~86
Bubble-Back Door Mirror ('84-96)

. . . .

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FramePaint.jpg | Hits: 364 | Size: 52.25 KB | Posted on: 3/13/21 | Link to this image


Frame Paint is more likely to cause rust than to prevent it, even when applied at the factory. Rubberized undercoating is much better for all underbody parts because it's cheaper, easier to apply, requires less prep to apply, and is easier to re-apply as needed.

This is my '83/93 Bronco:
. . .

This is the '93 EB Bronco I'm building:
. .

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Undercoating95B.jpg | Hits: 361 | Size: 44.17 KB | Posted on: 8/24/22 | Link to this image


Undercoating
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Since paint dries too hard & brittle for the undercarriage (it chips, flakes, & causes rust; even when applied to NEW steel at the factory), the best coating for it is undercoating (naturally). It's cheaper, quicker, easier to touch-up, and doesn't flake off like paint, collecting water, sand, & salt. The only prep necessary is a few cycles of pressure-washing & drying.
Rustoleum Site
Can Label

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U-joint.JPG | Hits: 5042 | Size: 69.12 KB | Posted on: 11/13/05 | Link to this image


Not good. I let it vibrate for a LONG time before it finally wore through the cap AND the DC yoke.

See also:
. . .

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U-jointWear.jpg | Hits: 1235 | Size: 72.59 KB | Posted on: 2/10/16 | Link to this image


Greasable U-joints...

Not nearly as effective or foolproof as some people think. This one WAS greased, but the grease didn't flow to all 4 caps. The warranty on the reman driveshaft was long gone by the time the needle bearings powdered & fell out. And the owner/driver didn't pay attention to the vibration for over a year until it came apart on the road. Blind luck it didn't come up through the floor, or somersault the truck into a busload of amputee orpan nuns.

Sealed u-joints (which can still be greased by disassembly) are much stronger because they don't have grease journals drilled through the trunnion. And because they aren't constantly being blown out by grease being pumped in, their seals last MUCH longer, with less wear, and less contamination.

See also:
. . . .

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Ujoint01.jpg | Hits: 852 | Size: 99.25 KB | Posted on: 10/25/16 | Link to this image


The best way I know to prevent needles from dropping into or out of the cups when hammering a cap on is to preload the cap with grease. It's also a wise move, whether the U-joint is sealed or not. But it's the correct way to pre-grease AND re-grease sealed u-joints, which are stronger & more-durable than greasables.

I also load each cap with grease as I disassemble a u-joint to keep the needles from falling in.



That Ridgid F50 vise is arguably the best on the market, made in Germany from 70Ksi steel (not common 22Ksi cast crap-Iron) with a lifetime warranty. It's also available larger & smaller (as the F45 & F60).

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Dshafts07.JPG | Hits: 1183 | Size: 126.11 KB | Posted on: 10/24/14 | Link to this image


Fill u-joint caps with grease to hold needle bearings in-place during assembly, or immediately after disassembly.


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PressShafts.JPG | Hits: 3219 | Size: 58.35 KB | Posted on: 11/11/05 | Link to this image


Pressing a U-joint out



I have no idea what this press was built for, but it's a monster. Note the shackle for suspending it.

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UjointSealedJournal.jpg | Hits: 950 | Size: 72.01 KB | Posted on: 10/25/16 | Link to this image


There are no grease journals in a sealed (non-greasable) trunnion. The bores are blind, and are not as deep as the needle races, so the shear load across each post is applied to a greater cross-sectional area than in a trunnion drilled all the way through (greasable).

Also, the 5th bore for the grease fitting creates another weak spot in the trunnion body. And the fitting's pipe threads seal by the wedging action (they're tapered) which also helps split/crack the trunnion of a greasable U-joint. Sealed joints don't have any of that.

Note the use of new grease in each cup; both to hold the needle bearings in-place, and also to fill/refill them before assembly.

See also:

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Driveshafts BroncoE4OD.JPG | Hits: 3290 | Size: 84.03 KB | Posted on: 9/12/05 | Link to this image


Driveshafts for a Bronco with E4OD & BW1356


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Driveshafts.JPG | Hits: 3443 | Size: 69.62 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Front shafts are the same for all pickups & Broncos with the same transmission length. Rear shafts are specific to transmission length AND wheelbase.


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Axle joint.JPG | Hits: 3402 | Size: 104.75 KB | Posted on: 8/27/03 | Link to this image


Slip Joint, D44IFS right inboard shaft


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HomeLinkMemo.JPG | Hits: 3253 | Size: 50.71 KB | Posted on: 3/18/07 | Link to this image


Homelink & Voice Recorder from '99 Explorer sun visor

I haven't decided what to do with this yet, but it's interesting. I wanted to put it in the '75 Bronco, but I can't find a good spot for it.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/3536#album

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Clock80Pull.JPG | Hits: 2347 | Size: 48.81 KB | Posted on: 4/28/09 | Link to this image


Clock with Push-Pull Buttons

These are very rare, and I have yet to find one in working condition. Usually, the buttons are ripped out or smashed in, or the case is rusted. From what I can see, the only purpose of the pullable buttons is to lock while you use the Hr/Min RESET buttons on the other side. The Elapsed Time button doesn't lock, but it will only pull after every OTHER push, so that must be for resetting it to zero when it's stopped.

I might try to get this one repaired.

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CB80.JPG | Hits: 2851 | Size: 56.86 KB | Posted on: 4/28/09 | Link to this image


Factory CB in a 1980 Ranger F150 Trailer Special

If the buttons weren't missing from the handset, I'd have snagged it. I didn't try to power it up, but it looks OK.

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ReelLight1.JPG | Hits: 6370 | Size: 70.04 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This light was used on ~'80~90 Ford trucks and some Jeep Cherokees (with a different connector). It reaches ~25' and has a magnetic base. There should be a clear dome over the #90 bulb, but the retainers break easily and the bulb is often replaced with an oversize one #1004, which melts the dome.

. .
_____________________________________________________________________
TSB 01-19-04 Revised Mechanical Hood Lamp Switch Replaces Mercury Switch
Publication Date: SEPTEMBER 18, 2001

FORD: 1990-95 ESCORT
1990-2000 CROWN VICTORIA
1991 TAURUS
1992-95 E SERIES
1994 F-150, F-250, F-350
2000-2001 F-150, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2001 EXCURSION
LINCOLN: 1888-89 MARK VII
2000-2001 TOWN CAR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1990-95 GRAND MARQUIS, TRACER
1993-98 VILLAGER

ISSUE: This article is to provide information on replacement hood lamp switches. The 14 degree Mercury style hood switches will no longer be available. Replacement 14 degree Mechanical switches will be available as a service replacement.

ACTION: For vehicles requiring hood lamp switch replacement, replace the 14 degree Mercury switch with new 14 degree Mechanical switch. Replace hood lamp switch per the appropriate model year Workshop Manual as needed.

Old Service Part Number - New Service Part Number
F3XY-15702-A - - - - - - - - - - YW1Z-15702-BA
E8LY-15702-A - - - - - - - - - - YW1Z-15702-BA

PART NUMBER PART NAME
YW1Z-15702-BA 14 degree Mechanical Hood Lamp Switch
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 201000, 201200

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HoodTilt.jpg | Hits: 4854 | Size: 59.1 KB | Posted on: 8/23/03 | Link to this image


Automatic Engine Compartment Lamp takes bulb #912 (& others)

The metal bulb is the tilt switch, which contains a BB.
_____________________________________________________________________
TSB 01-19-04 Revised Mechanical Hood Lamp Switch Replaces Mercury Switch
Publication Date: SEPTEMBER 18, 2001

FORD: 1990-95 ESCORT
1990-2000 CROWN VICTORIA
1991 TAURUS
1992-95 E SERIES
1994 F-150, F-250, F-350
2000-2001 F-150, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2001 EXCURSION
LINCOLN: 1888-89 MARK VII
2000-2001 TOWN CAR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1990-95 GRAND MARQUIS, TRACER
1993-98 VILLAGER

ISSUE: This article is to provide information on replacement hood lamp switches. The 14 degree Mercury style hood switches will no longer be available. Replacement 14 degree Mechanical switches will be available as a service replacement.

ACTION: For vehicles requiring hood lamp switch replacement, replace the 14 degree Mercury switch with new 14 degree Mechanical switch. Replace hood lamp switch per the appropriate model year Workshop Manual as needed.

Old Service Part Number - New Service Part Number
F3XY-15702-A - - - - - - - - - - YW1Z-15702-BA
E8LY-15702-A - - - - - - - - - - YW1Z-15702-BA

PART NUMBER PART NAME
YW1Z-15702-BA 14 degree Mechanical Hood Lamp Switch
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 201000, 201200

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ColTilt.jpg | Hits: 23 | Size: 83.27 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Pre-'92 Tilt Column
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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CruiseNoTilt.JPG | Hits: 1506 | Size: 91.42 KB | Posted on: 1/9/15 | Link to this image


Cruise non-Tilt Column
I used to think this didn't exist.

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TiltID.jpg | Hits: 252 | Size: 46.87 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Tilt Column Identification
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The front of the hole where the turn signal stalk enters the column identifies tilt or not. In a non-tilt column, the hole is square. In a tilt column, there is a pointed pocket with a vertical bar (the tilt latch) visible inside.

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SteeringWheel 1.JPG | Hits: 5268 | Size: 87.7 KB | Posted on: 12/6/04 | Link to this image


This is how the cruise button wires are connected on all pre-'93 trucks. The horn pad connector is the same for all '78-91 steering wheels, regardless of shape or cruise control. Cruise horn pads have the additional black ground wires that clip into a steering wheel hub puller hole. To pull the steering wheel, see the NEXT few captions...

For more info on pre-'93 cruise, read this caption:


For pre-'92 turn/hazard switch replacement, see:


For '92-97 non-airbag, see:
.

See also:
.

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SteeringWheel 2.JPG | Hits: 5090 | Size: 76.25 KB | Posted on: 12/6/04 | Link to this image


A cheap puller makes the job easier, but the wheel can usually be removed by hooking your knees behind it and tapping on the pre-loosened nut. However, this can damage tilt columns whose bearings & tilt mechanisms are known to be delicate. So a puller should be used whenever possible. Pre-'92 wheel hubs are threaded for 5/16"-24 pulling bolts.

Leaving the nut loose on the shaft does 2 things:
1) it prevents the push bolt from walking off the shaft, and
2) it prevents the steering wheel from flying at your face if you use a springy puller & the splines let go suddenly.

Apply anti-seize lube to the splines before reassembly.

See also:
.

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SteeringWheel 3.JPG | Hits: 3527 | Size: 84.87 KB | Posted on: 12/6/04 | Link to this image


The white crescent-shaped turn signal cam commonly breaks, and you can see where I've spliced this one in by the red connector on the green wire in the top L corner of the photo. The bent bar in the middle of the photo is the release lever for the tilt mechanism. The peg at the 2:00 position (barely above the lock cylinder) is the steering wheel lock.

For turn signal/hazard switch replacement, see:


See also:
.

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IntermediateShaft87-91.jpg | Hits: 621 | Size: 52.94 KB | Posted on: 3/15/19 | Link to this image


The '87-91 Steering Intermediate Shaft (between the column & box) is a good upgrade for '80-86 trucks because of the improvements to all 3 joints.

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PSFswell.jpg | Hits: 138 | Size: 55.2 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Power Steering Fluid
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Fluid marketed as "power steering fluid" - especially if the label claims it stops leaks or conditions seals - is extremely BAD for everything rubber it touches, INCLUDING the power steering hoses & seals. This is the result of it continuing to leak onto the intermediate shaft seal.

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PitmanPuller1.JPG | Hits: 5263 | Size: 66.01 KB | Posted on: 12/22/10 | Link to this image


This Snap-On (DarthVader-style CJ119B) pitman arm puller makes short work of a difficult job. I'm using a flat tip on the nut & shaft, instead of the point on the shaft alone.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The AirCat is a big help, too, but it's on the lowest setting, and I'm not giving it full-power. Technically, pullers should ONLY be driven by hand tools. And the pressure-screw's threads should be kept lubed with EP chassis grease.

.

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PitmanArm.jpg | Hits: 11 | Size: 110.98 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


'80-96/7 Power Steering Pitman Arm
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The 4 key splines are 90° apart, meaning the arm can only be installed in 4 positions. Since the sector shaft doesn't move 90°, it's virtually impossible to install the arm wrong.

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TREboots96B.jpg | Hits: 15 | Size: 88.5 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Black Energy Poly Tie Rod End Boots

Since original tie rod ends frequently survive to this age, replacing only the boot is a genuine option. Half-ton trucks take Energy 9.13101G.

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SteeringDamper.jpg | Hits: 150 | Size: 71.54 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Steering Damper Installation w/Quad Front Shocks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

I'm not a fan of steering dampers (they're usually installed wrong for the wrong reasons), but this is the best installation I've seen. A hole the size of the bushings' neck was drilled through the bottom of the quad front shock bracket.

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Turn Cam.JPG | Hits: 4905 | Size: 63.53 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


HELP! Turn Signal Cam (JUNK)
NAPA part# DL6126 is superior, but still a PITA

The bosses on the other side aren't molded right, so it doesn't return to center, and you have to bend & cut the silver "whiskers" to get it operate the lights right. Just bite the bullet and get a new turn signal assembly from Ford for ~$120 or RockAuto for ~$60.

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts, check for coupons & service offers from Ford.

See also:
. .

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ClockSpringExploded.jpg | Hits: 6024 | Size: 26.35 KB | Posted on: 12/2/05 | Link to this image


Clock Spring ('94-up with driver's airbag) showing the film circuit which abrades & breaks over time, causing SRS warnings &/or inoperative cruise control &/or horn. Newer vehicles with more features on the steering wheel can exhibit more symptoms.

Disassembly to this degree is unnecessary, unless you intend to repair the film circuit.

See also:
. . . . .

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SlidingContact.JPG | Hits: 2759 | Size: 59.13 KB | Posted on: 12/30/11 | Link to this image


'92-93 Cruise & Horn Sliding Contacts, also used on '94-98 over 8500GVWR



In '94, these contacts were replaced (on trucks under 8500GVWR) by the clock spring, which provides more a consistent connection for the airbag. But Ford retained the name "sliding contact" to refer to the clock spring, even though it was specifically built to eliminate them.

The key-in contact commonly breaks, causing the chime to sound constantly. On '94-95 trucks with factory THEFT, it also causes the horn to sound & parking lights to flash. It's easy to re-secure with a zip tie.


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ColumnDecontented.jpg | Hits: 1354 | Size: 55.3 KB | Posted on: 1/9/15 | Link to this image


'92-up Decontented Steering Columns are the same as fully-optioned columns, but with functional parts left out. Converting them is possible by simply swapping parts, but it's more practical to swap a complete column.

See also:

.

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ShiftScrsLoose.JPG | Hits: 2423 | Size: 48.53 KB | Posted on: 2/15/16 | Link to this image


Shifter Arm Screws need to be tightened, but adding blue threadlocker will help keep them tight longer.

See also:
. . . . . . .

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Column 96 L.JPG | Hits: 6744 | Size: 58.08 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Orange: shift cable
Green: wheel lock
Red: shift lock solenoid
Blue: shifter clamps
Pink: ignition switch
Lime: multifunction switch
Gray: steering wheel splines

See also:
. . . . . . .

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Column 96 R.JPG | Hits: 9581 | Size: 58.3 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Orange: shift cable
Green: wheel lock
Red: shift lock solenoid
Blue: shifter clamps
Pink: ignition switch
Teal: lock cylinder housing broken out by thieves
Gray: steering wheel splines

See also:
. . . . . .

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IgnitionRodTilt.JPG | Hits: 4408 | Size: 82.91 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is the ignition pushrod in '92-96 tilt columns. It's the plastic gear rack. The L section of the colulmn is upside-down. I didn't have time to disassmble it any further.

See also:
. . . . . . .

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Airbag.JPG | Hits: 6578 | Size: 84.02 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is the back of a '94-96 airbag, the same for most Ford cars & trucks.
Red: shaped charge
Yellow: airbag
Green: shorting clip inside connector prevents static from detonating the charge while unplugged

Any time an airbag is uninstalled, it should be placed face-up (fasteners DOWN) under the vehicle. If it accidentally deploys, it will stay where it is, and not throw anything.

See also:
. . . . .

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DashShell92-96.JPG | Hits: 2152 | Size: 99.1 KB | Posted on: 12/30/11 | Link to this image


Dash Shell & Ducts '92-96

Note that the dash structure is actually the plastic ducts - the colored part is just a shell attached to the ductwork.

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AcceleratorPedal.jpg | Hits: 3688 | Size: 70.58 KB | Posted on: 3/22/09 | Link to this image


'92-96 Accelerator Pedal Failure

The pedal arm is simply pressed onto the splines of the shaft, and it can slide sideways, becoming loose & noisy. To fix it, lay the pedal arm across the jaws of a vise with the pedal mounting bracket free between the jaws. Then hammer the pivot shaft down thru the pedal arm like a nail thru a board. If the pedal is still loose, use a blunt drift to damage the splines, then drive the pedal onto the damaged area, & damage the splines on the other side to lock it in.

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VSS 2.JPG | Hits: 6951 | Size: 90.41 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


This is the Cable Speed Sensor (E2AZ-9E731-A) used on early (pre-'87) cruise systems to generate a VSS. It's in the middle of the speedo cable (E3MZ-9A820-A), usually beside the brake booster, but they always seize up inside. They produce 6 pulses per rev, just like the later style that mounted in the tailhousing at the bottom end of the speedo cable.

. . . . . .

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RelayBlock.JPG | Hits: 4942 | Size: 43.9 KB | Posted on: 3/16/06 | Link to this image


Relay Blocks

These slide-together relay sockets are from a cheap aftermarket alarm, but they can be used for almost anything. These standard Bosch/ISO relays have mounting tabs, but not all do. All share a pinout, including pin numbers. The relay coil is between pins 85 & 86. The common power contact is pin 30; normally closed (NC) is 87a (if present); normally open (NO) is 87. The standard rating is 30A, but higher ratings are available with larger terminals.

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide


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HeadlightKnobClip.JPG | Hits: 4475 | Size: 31.51 KB | Posted on: 10/14/10 | Link to this image


Headlight Knob Catch

This '92-96 headlight knob's collar was broken away, allowing a better view of the catch. Earlier knobs don't have the collar, so their catches are almost visible.

To release the knob from the shaft, use a pick in the slot provided to press the catch rearward (toward the knob) as you pull the knob rearward. To install, align the triangle socket with the shaft and press the knob onto the shaft fully. If the knob pulls off without a tool, bend the clip slightly as shown in this pic so it catches the shaft better.

Older knobs (including wiper, fog light, & HVAC) are retained similarly.

See also:

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WCMs3.JPG | Hits: 2813 | Size: 87.94 KB | Posted on: 1/3/09 | Link to this image


WIper Control Modules used from '92-up

I used to think they all took the same module, but the white connector is keyed differently from the gray. The years beside them are ONLY for the part number codes - not necessarily the application years.

The primary difference is that the WCM for a vehicle with hidden wipers has to reverse its motor to park, so it needs another relay. The '92 & '93 WCMs have only 3; the '95 has 4.
Low
High
Spray
Reverse

See also:
. . . . .

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FogLWells.jpg | Hits: 2323 | Size: 32.55 KB | Posted on: 9/11/14 | Link to this image


'93-95 Lightning Fog Light Switch

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AntiSeizeRust.JPG | Hits: 1875 | Size: 64.65 KB | Posted on: 7/12/12 | Link to this image


The nickel anti-seize I applied to this bolt during the poly bushing installation worked for what it was intended to do: it prevented the nut from galling into the threads. But it's NOT an effective rust preventative or lubricant.

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AmpWire.jpg | Hits: 241 | Size: 70.29 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Amp or Inverter Wire Penetration
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Instead of drilling a hole in the steel firewall to pull a heavy-gauge high-current wire through, simply re-use the factory grommet in the HVAC box.

1) Spread the wires in the grommet gently with a long Phillips screwdriver to make room for the new addition(s).
2) Or (for more or larger wires) puncture the grommet.
3) This penetration brings the wires through the large firewall opening for the recirculate (cabin) air for the HVAC system beside the right kick panel (lower A-pillar).
4) A soft Copper tube may be used as a needle to thread the new wire(s) through the grommet.
5) The tube should be close to the size of the new wire(s).
6) Route the wire under the threshold for installations anywhere behind the front seats. Follow the factory harness routing when possible.
7) DO NOT connect the fuse until the wire is routed and insulated or connected at the far end, so it doesn't short to ground. For more protection, route the new wire through the fender, which is also a good place to keep the fuse holder away from damage.

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Crimp.JPG | Hits: 6647 | Size: 50.6 KB | Posted on: 4/17/11 | Link to this image


Crimping Electrical Terminals
(This applies equally to crimping butt-splices, which might be the most-commonly-crimped shape, but it's harder to observe what's happening in them than in this spade terminal.)

This deceptively simple operation confounds even some professionals, so here's the secret:
1. Set the terminal in the crimper jaw that's SLIGHTLY smaller than the terminal, with the tooth PERFECTLY centered over the seam. This is the point that's often ignored or misunderstood. If the tooth doesn't split the seam, the crimp will lose most of its gripping strength. Then insert the stripped & twisted wire(s), which should nearly fill the cavity.
2. WATCH as you begin to crimp - if the sides of the terminal tube don't bend evenly, reposition the tooth on the terminal to even them out before finishing the crimp.
3. Move the terminal to the round jaw (or the smaller square jaw for smaller terminals) with the gap aligned with the pliers' opening.
4. Recrimp the tube to close the gap, driving the folded ends into the wire strands, and crushing everything tight.
5. This crimp is nearly as strong as the wire, and will provide as good a mechanical connection as electrical for many years.

I prefer these cheap crimpers to even the most-expensive ones I've used. It's rare to find 5 working surfaces in one tool, and actually have all 5 do what they're supposed to.

. . . .

Other acceptable ways to splice wires include:

.

See also:
MotorCraft 2016 Wiring Pigtail Guide

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SplicePierce.JPG | Hits: 3570 | Size: 79.83 KB | Posted on: 3/10/12 | Link to this image


Pierce Splice
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This type of splice allows a circuit to be tapped without cutting the original wire. Any number of wires can be added, but the total current draw must not exceed the original (pierced) wire's capacity.

1. Expose the target wire enough for access all the way around.
2. Ring the insulation in 2 places ~4x the diameter of the splice wire apart, then slit between the rings & peel the insulation off. Strip the tip of the splice wire about the same distance for a solder splice, or 3x that for a twist splice.
3. Use a pick to divide the target wire's strands.
4. Insert the splice wire(s) in the gap and compress the target wire around it. For a twist splice: wrap the ends of the splice wire around the target and skip to 7.
5. Using a soldering iron of sufficient power for the wires' gauges, and rosin-core electrical solder, tin & splice the wires.
6. Ensure the splice is solid, and that all strands of both wires are tinned.
7. Tape securely over the splice and pull the target wire back into the harness.

This & the NEXT several show a large harness that was cut with a sawzall:



Other acceptable ways to splice wires include:

. . .

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BatteryClamps.JPG | Hits: 3261 | Size: 61.88 KB | Posted on: 4/15/06 | Link to this image


500A Battery Clamps from NAPA for $6.69/pack of 2. I'll be using one pair for a cheapo winch that pulls ~40A peak because the 50A clamps cost twice as much.

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CoolntResHook.jpg | Hits: 23 | Size: 49.58 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Coolant/Windshield Reservoir Hook
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Instead of the pushpin Ford recommends in the TSB, this hook bears the tanks' weight and keeps it in-place against the air cleaner support.

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WasherMotor.jpg | Hits: 17 | Size: 58.21 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


To remove the washer pump motor, pick most of the tabs on the retainer ring up in the tank bore.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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WiperMotorRevised.JPG | Hits: 7562 | Size: 107.07 KB | Posted on: 10/13/10 | Link to this image


Revised single-connector Wiper Motor
ERROR - this motor is only a revision for '92-94 trucks; it's standard for '95-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR)
Motorcraft Wiper Motor WM-708RM

Two 3-pin connectors were combined into this 5-pin by merging the ground wires. A 6-pin connector was also superceded by the 5-pin. Retrofit 5-pin connectors have non-OE colors, so observe pin locations.

Old -> New
R or DG - > Wh/Bk or Wh (pin 4)
Bk/Pk -> LB or DG (pin 5)
DB/Or -> Wh or R (pin 2)
Wh -> DB/Or or Y (pin1)
Bk with Y/R -> Bk (pin3)

See also:
. . . . . .

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WiperMtrArm.jpg | Hits: 15 | Size: 69.8 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Wiper Motor Arm Clip
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

To remove, lift the top (rear when installed) of the clip and slide it so the keyhole comes off the shaft.

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WiperLatch.JPG | Hits: 3907 | Size: 53.72 KB | Posted on: 10/8/10 | Link to this image


To remove a wiper arm, lift it away from the glass and slide the latch up to hold the arm. Then pull the arm & its base straight off the splined shaft.

To install, slide the arm onto the splined shaft, lift the wiper away from the glass, push the latch down, and lower the arm onto the glass. Check the arm's position & wipe range, and remove to re-position if necessary.

See also:
. . . . .

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Windshields.jpg | Hits: 122 | Size: 38.73 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Windshield Brands
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These are most of the common windshield brands available for '92-96/7 Ford trucks. PGW (Pittsburgh Glass Works) is the new name for PPG auto glass, which was an OEM along with Carlite & LOF (Libby-Owens Ford, which was acquired by Pilkington in 1986, and changed to that name when Nippon acquired Pilkington in 2006). SGC (Safelite) is a SouthAfrican-owned company that may be monopolizing the US auto glass industry.

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WStrimDtl.jpg | Hits: 1393 | Size: 50.11 KB | Posted on: 1/31/16 | Link to this image


'94-97 Windshield Trim Insert Details

The top trim (Left in the photo) has both a hard plastic "seal" slid into it, and a self-adhesive foam strip ~1.5" long x 3/8" x 3/8" in the corner. The side trim (not shown) has only the seal. The bottom trim (Right in the photo) has only the hard plastic retainer clips, each held captive by crimps in the lip of the trim.

The seal wraps under the Aluminum trim to keep the metal from contacting the glass.

Earlier trim ('80-93) might have less in the top & side pieces, but the bottom clips are identical for all '80-96 & '97 heavy. Their main tabs go toward the front (bottom).


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WSTool_.jpg | Hits: 11003 | Size: 34.04 KB | Posted on: 5/12/07 | Link to this image


This is a cheapo version of the tool, but it's effective. Go to the NEXT several pics...

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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WS_Tool1.jpg | Hits: 7206 | Size: 44.73 KB | Posted on: 5/12/07 | Link to this image


The tool slips under the windshield trim. Slide it to hook the clips, beginning at a joint near a corner.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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WS_Tool4.jpg | Hits: 6122 | Size: 65.73 KB | Posted on: 5/12/07 | Link to this image


Hold the tool at an angle so one point goes behind the clip.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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WS_Tool5.jpg | Hits: 5851 | Size: 41.95 KB | Posted on: 5/12/07 | Link to this image


Turn the tool to pry the clip slightly toward the center of the w/s, then lift the trim just enough to disengage it from the clip.

See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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WS_Tool9.jpg | Hits: 6492 | Size: 48.52 KB | Posted on: 5/12/07 | Link to this image


The lower trim clips are different, but they're released the same way.

These clips are intermittently not available new, so care should be taken not to damage them, or to allow them to corrode from debris trapped in the lower trim.

I have a few spares for sale.


See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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WS_Tool7.jpg | Hits: 6150 | Size: 45.25 KB | Posted on: 5/12/07 | Link to this image


The lower trim clips are different, but they're released the same way.

These clips are intermittently not available new, so care should be taken not to damage them, or to allow them to corrode from debris trapped in the lower trim.

I have a few spares for sale.


See also:
. . . . . . . . .

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GrabHdlA93.jpg | Hits: 233 | Size: 124.93 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


'80-96 Grab Handle Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

After finding a suitable grab handle in a junkyard (this one is probably from an Explorer), screw its bottom end to the raised area on the A-pillar. 1) Cut a scrap of steel into a strip. 2) Bend an angle similar to that raised area, and put 2 holes in it for mounting it by screws or welding. Screw the handle to the strap and mark the strap's location on the A-pillar. Drill a hole under the raised area of the strap for the handle's screw tip. 3) Remove the handle and attach the strap. 4) Check the fit. 5) Replace the A-pillar trim and install the handle.

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FanClutchTools.JPG | Hits: 6442 | Size: 30.59 KB | Posted on: 12/4/09 | Link to this image


Homemade Fan Clutch Tools

The angle iron holds the water pump pulley bolts while the leaf spring breaks the clutch hub nut.

The angle iron can also be used for holding a pinion flange or yoke.

Leaf spring steel is tough & hard enough to hold its shape as a wrench.

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HandleHeatVentWdo.jpg | Hits: 15 | Size: 84.48 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Black plastic that has oxidized can be restored to some degree simply by heating.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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RearArmrestRepair.JPG | Hits: 2591 | Size: 61.69 KB | Posted on: 12/31/11 | Link to this image


'92-96 Bronco Rear Armrest Reinforcement
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Don't wait until they break to do this.

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RearStLatch.jpg | Hits: 23 | Size: 84.51 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


'78-96 Bronco Rear Seat Latch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This one sat in its well full of dirty water so long that it was rust-locked onto its strike bar, necessitating full disassembly, sandblasting, & painting.

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StrikeBar.JPG | Hits: 3090 | Size: 75.93 KB | Posted on: 3/13/13 | Link to this image


The insulator commonly wears off the rear seat strike, so to reduce noise, it must be replaced. 1" heat shrink tubing is probably the smallest that will fit, but I was able to stretch this 0.972" enough to get it over the end. The next size up that I have is 1.35", which seemed too big to shrink down tight. These are 2"-long sections.

http://www.harborfreight.com/88-piece-heat-shrink-tubing-assortment-with-case-67519.html

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TetherPoints.jpg | Hits: 326 | Size: 39.42 KB | Posted on: 1/11/21 | Link to this image


Child seat tether points
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Email me through my profile here to purchase a set.

See also:
.

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Interior96XL.JPG | Hits: 5786 | Size: 51.81 KB | Posted on: 12/2/09 | Link to this image


'92-96 Low Interior Trim

Plastic floor cover, vinyl upholstery, no headliners, low-trim bedwalls

. . .

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CptChr88.JPG | Hits: 3562 | Size: 85.64 KB | Posted on: 12/12/11 | Link to this image


'88 Captain's Chair with inboard armrests only

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BadgesBronco92-20.jpg | Hits: 292 | Size: 50.87 KB | Posted on: 7/11/20 | Link to this image


'92-96 Eddie Bauer Bronco Fender Badges

The reproduction badges available in 2020 are not identical, but are very close to '94-96 badges.

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DashPads7a1.jpg | Hits: 1824 | Size: 87.79 KB | Posted on: 1/21/18 | Link to this image


'92-96 F-series/Bronco Interior Colors & Codes
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The letter code is from the VC label BODY or INT field; the number code is a parts suffix.

Beginning around 2020, Jeffrey Amoroso in Rising Sun, MD, re-upholsters these for a couple hundred dollars, minus quite a bit for your core. Look for him in several FB groups for these old trucks.

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PaintColorsEB956.jpg | Hits: 291 | Size: 45.53 KB | Posted on: 4/4/22 | Link to this image


'94-96 Eddie Bauer Exterior Trim Paint Colors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Tucson Bronze (XD, aka Light Santa Fe) was used in '94-95; Light Saddle (DZ) was used in '96.

. .

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DashPadsReds.jpg | Hits: 278 | Size: 54.83 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


'92-96/7 Red Dash Colors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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RoofDiffs80-86.JPG | Hits: 3327 | Size: 41.91 KB | Posted on: 11/14/08 | Link to this image


'80-86 Roof Differences

Note that this truck also has the later-style windshield with the blackout ring. All-clear replacement windshields are becoming UNavailable, and the blackout ring hides the VIN on these older trucks.

. .

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ScrewExtract.jpg | Hits: 137 | Size: 84.49 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Screw Extraction
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

For screws (especially Phillips & Torx) with rusty heads, these left-hand extractors are very convenient & effective.

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CHMSL-Cargo.jpg | Hits: 217 | Size: 53.81 KB | Posted on: 6/14/21 | Link to this image


Center High-Mount Stop Lamp vs. Cargo Lamp comparison

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CHMSLstuck.jpg | Hits: 18 | Size: 52.71 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


CHMSL Stuck
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This can be a problem if the wrong bulbs are installed in the CHMSL, which have too high wattage, causing them to get hotter than the plastic housing can tolerate.

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Glass ClearTint.jpg | Hits: 22 | Size: 57.5 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Glass Colors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This is what Ford means by "tinted" - the slight green in the glass. Ford calls darkened glass "shaded".

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SpoilerR.JPG | Hits: 2923 | Size: 54.09 KB | Posted on: 7/23/07 | Link to this image


Aftermarket Rear Spoiler on an '80-91 Bronco

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3BoltMirror.JPG | Hits: 3561 | Size: 57.24 KB | Posted on: 7/23/07 | Link to this image


Rare 1980 6-bolt 2-Position Mirror used on F250-350 only

Note the extra arm between the hi-low arm & the mirror head allowing the mirror to be extended for wide trailers.


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BallPinConsole.JPG | Hits: 3066 | Size: 71.91 KB | Posted on: 7/23/07 | Link to this image


Center Console with '78-80 ball-pin snaps instead of the more common '81-91 glove-box-style catch.


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BplrStrctr.JPG | Hits: 1469 | Size: 53.91 KB | Posted on: 5/9/13 | Link to this image


B-pillar substructure

.

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MountTubes.JPG | Hits: 1536 | Size: 75.28 KB | Posted on: 5/6/13 | Link to this image


Rather than bolt/weld an internal cage to the body, or cut thru the body to attach an interior structure to the frame, these provide hard points that can be welded without any permanent damage to the body. They're high enough to be above any carpet & padding, and common foam weatherstrip can be used to seal around them.

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BodyMountLHR1.JPG | Hits: 1206 | Size: 103.9 KB | Posted on: 5/5/15 | Link to this image


Rear Body Crossmember Construction

Seam sealer has been added between the lower C-pillar, inner bed wall, channel, & cargo floor before the underbody was painted white.

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Captain's Chair Driver's Limit Cable

This prevents the driver's chair from blowing the horn when it's slid forward and a passenger climbs through the driver's door. The passenger chair has no limit cable.

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CptChrTilt.jpg | Hits: 1177 | Size: 127.96 KB | Posted on: 9/19/14 | Link to this image


How to tilt a '90-96 Captain's Chair

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'92-96 Seat Base Trim Fastener
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This fastener is problematic because it looks like a Phillips screw, but it's too easy to strip the plastic head while trying to force the plastic threads. So they often get ripped out & lost. This is a cheap easy fix using common Ford parts often found in the same trucks.

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'94-96 Bronco/F Driver's Armrest
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This is the first one I've found in good-enough condition to keep all the parts organized. The only purpose of the cable is to lift the armrest when the seatback is dumped forward; presumably so it doesn't hit the steering column, shifter, or dash when the seat slides forward for rear-seat entry.

But it usually doesn't work because the pot-metal cam plate breaks or wears, allowing the armrest to fall out of position, or to hang from the seat upholstery by the cable. For proper function, it needs lubrication between the pivot bolt, cam plate, and shim plate. But oil, grease, or graphite would stain the upholstery (moreso than the wearing pot metal & rust), so it's nearly hopeless.

Repair parts are not available, so junkyard parts are in high demand, and dwindling. I'm working on a steel replacement cam plate, but the design isn't finished yet. The plastic shim could be very difficult to produce, but I'm not sure yet how critical it is. The unique & complex cable will be the hardest to duplicate, and I don't know of anyone who has even attempted that.

See also:

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Carpet Cleaning
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Even a good vacuuming or generous rinsing can't remove small gravel and heavy sand. To get this stubborn debris out, beat the carpet upside-down. Before I found this heavy mesh, I used my patio furniture to support the carpet while still allowing the dirt to fall away.

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BenchMounts.JPG | Hits: 4366 | Size: 79.99 KB | Posted on: 11/14/09 | Link to this image


Seat Mounting Points

The unused bolt holes have rubber plugs, and are not threaded. Threads are cut by the bolts/studs as they are initially installed.

See also:
. . . . . .

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'90-96 Seat Bolt Holes
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The locations originally UNused by the factory have rubber plugs to seal the unthreaded holes. When a fastener is installed the first time, it cuts its own threads.

See also:
. . . . . .

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Scrap Nut

Many stock bolts are designed to self-thread into unthreaded blocks of steel, which are cheaper for the factory to produce & install for optional equipment than threaded nuts would be. So for body modifications, it's convenient to weld on a scrap of steel that's simply drilled the correct size, and run an original bolt through.

For chairs, consider the long-term effects of a 200-lb human rocking around in the 40-lb chair on this ~20-ga sheet metal.


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TorxX.jpg | Hits: 143 | Size: 35.98 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Seat Belt Bolt Extraction
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This bolt was seized so badly that 2 T50 bits (one a Snap-On) broke without moving it. This large spiral extractor was able to grab it in a way that applied more torque with less force (on the outer edge of the bolt head) and remove it.

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Jump Seats.JPG | Hits: 5478 | Size: 94.07 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


Jump Seats from '78 Nissan extended cab pickup with tan vinyl upholstery & backrests.

I'm still not sure if these were a factory option, a dealer option, or an aftermarket option. I've only seen 2 other FSBs with them, and both were '80-86 with matching upholstery, but that might have been custom-made. I know they were original equipment on Datsun/Nissan king cabs.

They're surprsingly comfortable & secure, according to everyone who has ridden in them. Even the ones who rode here during some ROUGH off-roading.

The biggest DISadvantages to these are that I can't use an aftermarket molded cargo area mat, or the stock '92-96 bedwall panels because of their pockets.

. . . . .

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JumpSource.JPG | Hits: 1948 | Size: 117.75 KB | Posted on: 6/23/14 | Link to this image


Jump Seats from '78 Nissan extended cab pickup are identical to rare early-80s Bronco 3rd-row.

I'm still not sure if these were a factory option, a dealer option on Broncos, or an aftermarket option. I've only seen 2 other FSBs with them, and both were '80-86 with matching upholstery, but that might have been custom-made.

They're surprsingly comfortable & secure, according to everyone who has ridden in them. Even the ones who rode here during some ROUGH off-roading.

The biggest DISadvantages to these are that I can't use an aftermarket molded cargo area mat, or the stock '92-96 bedwall panels because of their pockets. The right one won't work with an inside spare, either.

. . . .

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SportBarMts93.jpg | Hits: 26 | Size: 80.37 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Even this '93 Bronco body is still dimpled for the sport bar that was only offered in the early 80s.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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SeatBase82E.JPG | Hits: 1855 | Size: 79 KB | Posted on: 6/26/12 | Link to this image


Rare early pivoting van seat pedestal

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AutoVentshade Stepshield 88068 (pair) fits '80-96 Broncos & F-series, but production was stopped around 2006.


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FloorWiring93.JPG | Hits: 3303 | Size: 53.61 KB | Posted on: 11/15/09 | Link to this image


Floor Wiring in a '93 EB Bronco

It's especially common for the dome light wiring under the seat belt reel to corrode due to water under the threshhold.


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DomeTerms.jpg | Hits: 316 | Size: 64.72 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Dome Lamp Terminals
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . . .

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DoorSw93.JPG | Hits: 1889 | Size: 88.13 KB | Posted on: 6/9/13 | Link to this image


The rare '92-93 B-pillar courtesy lamp switch is a poor design that depends on a fragile rubber boot to remain clean. This one isn't.

.

MotorCraft SW5137 / Wells SW1342 / Standard DS838 can be had for ~$21. All are made by Pollack in Mexico. Avoid those made by AirTex or sold by the zone.

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B-PillarPadding.JPG | Hits: 4421 | Size: 70.96 KB | Posted on: 10/19/11 | Link to this image


B-pillar sound padding commonly absorbs water and causes wiring to corrode away to a green slime.

This is a '93 Bronco with the rare courtesy light switch. The shoulder belt reel in F-series is usually much higher above the floor.

If the door strike bolt's nut plate falls, it will be inside the B-pillar behind this bag.

. . .

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Airbag Falsing Sensor.JPG | Hits: 8112 | Size: 56.45 KB | Posted on: 11/25/05 | Link to this image


Bronco airbag safing sensor at base of R B-pillar '94-96 ONLY.

See also:
.

The nut plate for the door strike bolt is accessible throgh the hole above & forward of the sensor. If it falls out of place, it's accessible through the hole below the shoulder belt reel.

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BeltRear92.jpg | Hits: 219 | Size: 44.17 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


'92-96 Bronco Rear Seat Shoulder Belt Reel Mounting
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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ShifterCovers.JPG | Hits: 2896 | Size: 67.59 KB | Posted on: 10/8/10 | Link to this image


The butyl sealant between the trans plate & the floor is relatively easy to separate. But the panel adhesive used on the t-case blockoff (also for 2WD) is almost impossible to split. Some people have pried up a corner of the plate, bolted a chain to it, and driven the truck away from a tree to rip the plate loose.

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ShifterPositionM5OD.jpg | Hits: 215 | Size: 69.68 KB | Posted on: 6/3/22 | Link to this image


Mazda M5OD-R2 Shifter Position
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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ShifterBoltMazda.jpg | Hits: 834 | Size: 39.96 KB | Posted on: 5/12/22 | Link to this image


Mazda M5OD (and possibly others) Shifter Wedge Bolt (7L197)

The nut is normally installed on the LOCK side to hold the shifter tight. To extract the wedge, tighten the nut on the REMOVE side until it slides out, then pull the shifter handle off the shift shaft.

.

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36Shifter5.JPG | Hits: 1951 | Size: 95.45 KB | Posted on: 4/26/18 | Link to this image


Shifter Bolt for Mazda M5OD-R2

To remove the shifter, remove the nut, and thread it onto the exposed threads on the other side of the shifter. Tighten the nut until it loosens, and pull the wedge bolt out of the shifter. Then remove the shifter from the transmission stub.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
. . .

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TransGaskets.jpg | Hits: 8705 | Size: 59.71 KB | Posted on: 10/15/09 | Link to this image


Transmission Gasket ID
Click the pic to supersize.

See also:

. .

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Access-C6-E4OD.jpg | Hits: 15 | Size: 35.93 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Bellhousing Access Plates
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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E4ODTC.JPG | Hits: 2473 | Size: 87.68 KB | Posted on: 3/27/12 | Link to this image


E4OD Torque Converter Installation

If the torque converter is not FULLY seated before the engine is bolted up, SEVERE damage will occur.

Each transmission's TC depth is different - this applies ONLY to the E4OD/4R100.

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'96 E4OD Dipsticks
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Bronco & F-series E4OD dipsticks got noticeably longer in '96, and there's a different dipstick & tube for each engine.

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ShIndCable.JPG | Hits: 215 | Size: 84.87 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Shift Indicator Tube (Early)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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MLPS-E4OD.JPG | Hits: 9444 | Size: 75.79 KB | Posted on: 11/14/09 | Link to this image


MLPS on a '93 E4OD (L side)

TSB 95-2-12 E4OD Diagnostic Trouble Codes and/or Harsh Shift Concerns - Water Intrusion of the MLP/TR Sensor



Publication Date: JANUARY 30, 1995

LIGHT TRUCK:
1989-1994 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES, F-47, F-53, F-59

ISSUE: Some vehicles may exhibit a shift concern and/or a harsh engagement concern due to water intrusion into the MLP/TR sensor and vehicle harness. There may also be a number of different DTC's along with those concerns.

ACTION: Replace the MLP/TR sensor and vehicle harness connector if signs of water penetration are evident. Refer to the following for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Verify the customer concern. Perform normal on-board diagnostics. Inspect the MLP/TR Sensor for signs of water contamination. If water penetration is present and/or DTC's have been set, replace the MLP/TR sensor and the vehicle harness connector with the TR Sensor Service Kit (F5TZ-7A247-A).

The TR Service Kit contains:
One (1) TR Sensor
One (1) Connector Assembly
One (1) "Red" Pin Separator Plate
One (1) 6-Pin Grommet
One (1) 8-Pin Grommet
One (1) 7-Pin Grommet
One (1) Instruction Sheet

PART NUMBER: F5TZ-7A247-A
PART NAME: TR Sensor Service Kit

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS:Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage For 1992-94 Models, Basic Warranty Coverage For All Other Model Years.

OPERATION: 950212A
DESCRIPTION: Perform Electronic Transmission Diagnostics, Replace MLP/TR Sensor
TIME: 2.0 Hrs.

.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TSB 98-24-06 New Electrical Terminal Grease Released for Service

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 25, 1998

FORD:
1981-1999 ESCORT
1983-1999 CROWN VICTORIA
1984-1988 EXP
1984-1994 TEMPO
1985-1999 TAURUS
1986-1997 PROBE
1988-1991 FESTIVA
1993-1999 MUSTANG
1994-1997 ASPIRE
1995-1999 CONTOUR
1996-1997 THUNDERBIRD

LINCOLN-MERCURY:
1983-1999 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS
1984-1986 CAPRI
1984-1987 LN7
1984-1994 TOPAZ
1985-1999 SABLE
1988-1992 MARK VII
1991-1994 CAPRI
1993-1998 MARK VIII
1993-1999 TRACER
1995-1999 MYSTIQUE
1996-1997 COUGAR, TOWN CAR
1999 COUGAR

MERKUR:
1985-1988 XR4TI
1988 SCORPIO

LIGHT TRUCK:
1981-1996 BRONCO
1981-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD, F-350
1981-1999 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD
1983-1999 RANGER
1984-1990 BRONCO II
1984-1997 AEROSTAR
1991-1999 EXPLORER
1993-1999 VILLAGER
1995-1999 WINDSTAR
1997-1999 EXPEDITION, MOUNTAINEER
1998-1999 NAVIGATOR
1999 SUPER DUTY F SERIES

MEDIUM/HEAVY TRUCK:
1984-1999 F & B SERIES
1988-1997 CARGO SERIES
1996-1998 AEROMAX, LOUISVILLE

ISSUE: Ford Motor Company has released a new Electrical Grease (F8AZ-19G208-AA) to reduce the possibility of moisture corrosion at the terminals.



ACTION: Add the new grease during electrical connection repair.

CAUTION: ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR GREASE SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS FOR SPARK PLUG AND COIL WIRE APPLICATIONS.

PROPER USES OF THE NEW ELECTRICAL GREASE INCLUDE:
Electrical Connectors
Battery Connections
Light Sockets
Starter Terminals

DO NOT USE ON:
Spark Plug Wires
Coil Wires
Spark Plug-to-Coil Connections
Low Current Flow Switches (12V Systems less than 0.1 amp)

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F-series/Bronco E4OD Dipstick & Tube Variations
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:

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20181009_181928.jpg | Hits: 562 | Size: 65.92 KB | Posted on: 10/10/18 | Link to this image


Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) cast Aluminum E4OD pan

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Magnefine Filters are cheaper in bulk on eBay. Raybestos has an official dealer, but I got these slightly cheaper. They're useful as ATF, PSF, & other hydraulic fluid filters, but they can only be installed on the low-pressure side of the system. And their fittings must be sized to the line they're installed in. These are 5/16" (8mm - ATF cooler sized), but 1/4" (~6mm - fuel sized) & 3/8" (~10mm - PSF sized) are also available.

. . . . . .

Before buying cheap aftermarket parts (these filters are top-quality aftermarket parts), check for coupons & service offers from Ford.
__________________________________________
TSB 00-23-10 Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-JX-160-Universal--Line-Filter/dp/B000C8RAYE/
https://www.amazon.com/Hastings-TF109-Magnetic-Universal-Transmission/dp/B001TITC0Q/
https://www.amazon.com/80277-Universal-Remote-Transmission-Filter/dp/B000CIKJMY/


Publication Date: NOVEMBER 6, 2000

FORD:
1980-1997 THUNDERBIRD
1980-2001 CROWN VICTORIA
1984-2001 MUSTANG
1985-1990 BRONCO II
1985-2001 RANGER
1987-1997 AEROSTAR
1989-1996 BRONCO
1989-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD
1989-2001 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD, F-350, F-450
1991-2002 EXPLORER
1997-2001 EXPEDITION
1999-2001 F-250 HD, SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2001 EXCURSION

LINCOLN:
1982-2001 TOWN CAR
2000-2001 LS
1998-2001 NAVIGATOR

MERCURY:
1980-2001 GRAND MARQUIS
1987-1997 COUGAR
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

ISSUE: Contamination from prior transmission concerns or excess wear may be trapped in the transmission fluid cooling system. This debris must be removed by properly cleaning the transmission cooling system. After cleaning, some contamination may still remain. The remaining contamination may be reintroduced into the fluid cooling system of a repaired/replaced transmission causing premature or repeat failures.

ACTION: After every overhaul or transmission exchange, clean, flush and backflush the transmission fluid cooling system which includes: fluid cooler, auxiliary cooler, cooler lines, and Cooler Bypass Valve (CBV), if equipped. Perform the cooler flow test to ensure proper transmission fluid flow volume on the transmission return line through the cooling system. Once proper fluid flow volume is verified install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) in the fluid cooler return line (transmission fluid flow coming out of the fluid cooler going into the transmission). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT CAN BE INSTALLED ON ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH 8mm (5/16") AND 9.5mm (3/8") TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER LINES.

NOTE: THIS IN-LINE TRANSMISSION FLUID FILTER KIT WILL ALSO BE SUPPLIED WITH ALL E4OD/4R100 AND OTHER FORD QUALITY REMANUFACTURED (FQR) TRANSMISSIONS. AFTER ANY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE PRIOR TO CONNECTING THE TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLING SYSTEM TO THE TRANSMISSION, FOLLOW THE STEPS BELOW.

Clean, flush and backflush transmission fluid cooling system.

NOTE: VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS CANNOT BE PROPERLY FLUSHED. ADDITIONALLY, 1998-2001 CROWN VICTORIA/GRAND MARQUIS AND TOWN CAR HAVE OIL-TO-AIR (OTA) FLUID COOLERS EQUIPPED WITH A TERMINAL BY-PASS VALVE. FOR ALL VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH STAND-ALONE OTA COOLERS, THE OTA COOLER MUST BE REPLACED ON EVERY OVERHAUL OR TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE SERVICE/WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR PROCEDURE.

Once the fluid cooling system has been cleaned, flushed and backflushed, connect the cooler lines and perform the transmission fluid flow test to ensure proper fluid flow. Refer to the appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for procedure. If proper fluid flow volume is not obtained, refer to appropriate Service/Workshop Manual for repair procedure. The transmission fluid coolers, auxiliary cooler, OTA, cooler lines, CBV (if equipped), transmission fluid pump or internal filter may be restricted or damaged and require replacement.
CAUTION: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE KIT INSTRUCTIONS MAY CAUSE INTERNAL TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY DAMAGE AND REPEAT REPAIRS.
Only after proper transmission fluid flow volume is present, install the Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA). Follow the instructions provided with the kit.

Once the filter is installed:
With the transmission fluid return line disconnected from the transmission, verify fluid flow through the filter. Once the fluid flow in-and-out of the filter is verified, connect the transmission fluid return line to the transmission. Check and adjust proper transmission fluid level to normal operating range at normal operating temperature and check for leaks, kinks and chafe points (refer to the "Do's and Don'ts" chart in the kit instructions).

NOTE: THE FILTER INCLUDED IN THIS KIT WILL ALSO BE AVAILABLE AS A SEPARATE PART (XC3Z-7B155-BA). IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THIS IN-LINE FILTER BE CHANGED EVERY 48,000 KILOMETERS (30,000 MILES).

PART NUMBER PART NAME
XC3Z-7B155-AA Transmission Fluid In-Line Filter Kit (Complete)
XC3Z-7B155-BA In-Line Filter Only (Separate)

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 00-03-08
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
002310AB Perform Flow Test And Install In-Line Fluid Filter 0.7 Hr.
002310A Additional Time To Retest Fluid Flow Before Installing In-Line Filter (To Be Used Only After Additional Repairs Are Performed) 0.3 Hr.

http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/quickref/atf.pdf

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PNP93C6.jpg | Hits: 14 | Size: 68.49 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


'93 F250 C6 Park Neutral Position (PNP) Switch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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TransMt275.jpg | Hits: 15 | Size: 65.18 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


There are only 2 transmission mounts for most '87-96 trucks, and the only difference is the spacing of the lower studs; either 2.25" or 2.75".

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AOD 4WD Adapter.jpg | Hits: 3346 | Size: 72.9 KB | Posted on: 8/6/03 | Link to this image


4WD extension for AOD transmission

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Xmbr-ID.jpg | Hits: 118 | Size: 48.98 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Crossmember ID
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Most Ford transmission crossmembers have their applications embossed. Even this severely-rusted one can be read.

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NP-208 F.JPG | Hits: 3360 | Size: 115.53 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


'83 NP-208F front

See also:

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NP-208 R.JPG | Hits: 3218 | Size: 106.41 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


'83 NP-208F rear

See also:

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TcaseShifterBezel.JPG | Hits: 2636 | Size: 80.4 KB | Posted on: 1/2/12 | Link to this image


'87-96 Transfer Case Shifter Bezel Screws
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Because of the deep wells in the bezel, the common #2 Phillips screw heads become buried, packed, or rusted, making them very difficult to unscrew for shifter maintenance. It may be necessary to use shop or canned air to blast out the loose dirt, then a pick to break up more & excavate the screw head channels, and repeat until a screwdriver fits well enough to back them out.

See also:

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BW1356PTO.jpg | Hits: 5057 | Size: 27.42 KB | Posted on: 11/14/08 | Link to this image


Rare PTO-style BW1356 from a diesel pickup. Note the front case half is Aluminum on the PTO version, while the rear is Magnesium, like all other BW1356s. The large white sticker is on the PTO blockoff plate, with the standard 6-bolt pattern around it.

.

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BW1345.JPG | Hits: 4825 | Size: 96.09 KB | Posted on: 1/8/09 | Link to this image


BW 1345
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Note that ALL applications use a fixed rear yoke.


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BW1356ID.JPG | Hits: 5592 | Size: 63.13 KB | Posted on: 12/20/09 | Link to this image


Borg-Warner Transfer Case Identification

The model number is cast into the rear housing, and sometimes stamped into an ID tag on a tailhousing bolt. This is a '93 EB Bronco1356 ESOF.


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LincolnLocker.JPG | Hits: 2938 | Size: 73.46 KB | Posted on: 8/29/09 | Link to this image


A welded differential, commonly called a "Lincoln-locker" in reference to the popular brand of welding machine.

This one has a lot of unecessary welding - the spider gears & pinion shaft could have been completely omitted since this goes in a full-floating rear axle.

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BW-1356 Slip.JPG | Hits: 4019 | Size: 119 KB | Posted on: 7/10/03 | Link to this image


SOLD BW-1356 for F-series with mechanical shifter



The air intake duct is just holding the shift knob in-position for the pic.

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DShaftDiffs.JPG | Hits: 1736 | Size: 103.95 KB | Posted on: 11/3/12 | Link to this image


Driveshaft Differences (Yoke/Companion Flange)

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GreaseCap.jpg | Hits: 446 | Size: 69.51 KB | Posted on: 1/27/19 | Link to this image


This is the tool Ford recommends for removing hammer-on grease caps. Tap the pliers with a small hammer near the grooves to work the cap out of the hub.

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KeystoneUnclamp.jpg | Hits: 29 | Size: 72.95 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


To open a keystone clamp without damage so it can be re-clamped later, simply insert a pocket screwdriver blade and work it side-to-side. The clamp is easily closed again with end-cutting pliers.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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TrailerBrakeCtrlConnector.jpg | Hits: 21 | Size: 72.77 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


'94-96/7 Trailer Brake Controller Connector
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The '92-93 connector is in the same location, but only has 4 wires in a 4-position connector shell.

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LEDresistor.jpg | Hits: 3183 | Size: 77.1 KB | Posted on: 4/30/21 | Link to this image


Brake LED Resistor
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Since there are many other systems (ABS, cruise, electronic automatic transmission...) that rely on the BOO (Brake On-Off) circuit, there can be many consequences in converting all the brake light filaments (2 in older vehicles, 3 in those with CHMSL) to LED. Adding a single ~180 Ohm 2W resistor from anywhere on the BOO circuit (511 LG) to any ground (57 Bk, 206 Wh, or several others) will keep those systems working as they should, while still giving all the benefits of LEDs (longer bulb life, lower current draw, lower temperature).

The trailer brake controller connector is a very convenient place to add the resistor because it's easily-accessible, inside, and doesn't require additional insulation because no wires are cut or stripped. After marking the terminal locations on the plastic connector shell (pre-'94 trucks have only 4 wires), pry out the red lock, and release the 2 target terminals. Brush the corrosion off the crimps, down to shiny metal. Then use the soldering iron to heat the terminal until solder melts onto that clean area of the crimp. While it's still hot, attach one of the resistor's leads (it doesn't matter which - resistors are not polarized) to the wet solder, and let it cool. Make sure it has a mechanically-strong connection, and repeat on the other terminal. When they're cool, re-insert and lock them into their original positions in the connector shell.

The resistor will allow the truck to work properly with LEDs as brake lights, incandescent bulbs, or a mixture. No other bulb position affects these systems this way, but a few other bulbs affect other systems in other ways (alternator charge indicator, 4WABS indicator, SRS warning lamp...) and should remain incandescent. Most convenience lighting and other exterior lighting is safe to swap to LED without adding resistors.

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RearConnsF93.jpg | Hits: 259 | Size: 73.96 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


F-series Fleetside SRW Rear Frame Connectors
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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RecvrInst.jpg | Hits: 244 | Size: 78.1 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Hitch Receiver Installation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

So that the nuts can be tightened or removed without a backup wrench on the boltts beside the gas tank, weld them to a plate drilled the same as the frame. After tightening the nuts, spray the exposed bolt threads with common rubberized undercoating to protect them from rust & mud. The undercoating will act as a lubricant later.

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BedBoltCmprF.jpg | Hits: 714 | Size: 64.96 KB | Posted on: 6/26/22 | Link to this image


F-series Bed Bolts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

New-style bed bolts (M14x2.00) can be used to replace obsolete older-style bolts (M12x1.75), but not this F-series set with all long bolts. The Ranger set contains at least 4 shorter bolts which work on '80-96/7 F-series. But these chy-neez copies use a weaker inside-hex (Allen) drive than the Ford Torx-drive bolts, and these nuts are crimped too far requiring them to be chased before installation. See the NEXT 2 pages...

Older bolts do not rotate, so the nuts must be removed from below. New-style bolts rotate, and the U-nuts remain clipped to the frame below, so they're easier to R&I. But the hex/Allen heads on the chy-neez bolts are not nearly as strong as the Ford Torx heads, so consider buying the genuine ones (either new or in a JY).
N806251S103 short bolt
N806252S103 long bolt
N803334S439 U-nut

This & the NEXT several show how to lift the bed off, once the nuts are removed.


If the original bolt spins in the bed, either cut a slot into the head to use a tool in, or weld a stop onto it:



For bed alignment, see:


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BedBoltCmprR.jpg | Hits: 347 | Size: 90.94 KB | Posted on: 6/26/22 | Link to this image


Ranger Bed Bolts
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Ranger bed bolts (M14x2.00) can be used to replace obsolete older-style F-series bolts (M12x1.75). The Ranger set includes 2 long bolts for the rear position, & 4 or 6 short bolts for the other positions.

Older bolts do not rotate, so the nuts must be removed from below. New-style bolts rotate, and the U-nuts remain clipped to the frame below.

For bed alignment, see:


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BedBoltNewChased.jpg | Hits: 327 | Size: 93.41 KB | Posted on: 6/26/22 | Link to this image


New-style bed bolt & U-nut (M14x2.00)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

If the aftermarket nut is not chased before installation, it will rip through its U-clip and spin under the bed. Genuine Ford nuts do not require pre-chasing. I'm using a common external-hex-drive bolt with the same thread to chase these nuts, because it's a stronger bolt and not as likely to be damaged by this process as the included bolts with their internal 8mm(5/16") hex-drive.

For bed alignment, see:


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TrailerConns93.jpg | Hits: 20 | Size: 76.21 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Rear Frame Connectors (on a '93 F250)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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BumpRFlrBolt.jpg | Hits: 27 | Size: 54.21 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Bronco rear bumper filler is bolted to the frame with U-nuts on the plastic filler. Because they collect dirt in the exposed threads, it's very common for the U-nuts to spin & damage the plastic during removal.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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BumperRivets.jpg | Hits: 29 | Size: 86.16 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Factory rear bumpers are a thin skin riveted to a heavy ball mount
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Chrome.jpg | Hits: 1678 | Size: 147.05 KB | Posted on: 4/25/15 | Link to this image


All it takes to polish clean chrome is clean 0000 steel wool & elbow grease.



See also:
.

I'm also considering these LED license lamps:
Black
Chrome w/red

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BumperR-Twist.jpg | Hits: 140 | Size: 75.08 KB | Posted on: 1/26/22 | Link to this image


Rear Bumper Straightening
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

It's very common for the rear bumper to be twisted at one end due to being backed into something low. It's usually easy to straighten using a strong scrap of metal and a large C-clamp.

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BumperBolt.jpg | Hits: 13 | Size: 104.48 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Rear Bumper Outboard Bolt Removal
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Because of grime & salt thrown by the rear tires, this is usually a craptastrophe. The stainless-clad carriage bolt commonly spins the in the bumper skin & bracket, leaving few options for removal. There isn't enough room to use a nut splitter (panel #1), so a die grinder is one of the few ways to get the nut off without (necessarily) destroying the bolt or bumper. Always use anti-seize when installing these fasteners, and coat them after the bumper is installed & aligned with common rubberized undercoating to protect the exposed threads.

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ReverseLEDs.jpg | Hits: 42 | Size: 70.83 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


Floodlights are easy to add since the stock rear bumper has 2 holes perfectly positioned already, and trucks with factory trailer adapter wiring already have a dedicated fused relay-controlled wire at the rear bumper which can easily handle a couple of lights.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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HitchKiller.jpg | Hits: 605 | Size: 87.7 KB | Posted on: 3/15/19 | Link to this image


Do you see the problem? A high-school friend of mine was killed exactly this way.

When the draw bar is left in the receiver too long, it rusts into place. Then someone pulls the pin, but can't get the draw bar out, and either moves the draw bar enough that the pin can't be put back, or forgets to put it back. As long as there's enough rust in the receiver to pull the occasional trailer, the draw bar can stay there for years. But eventually, it can work its way out, with catastrophic results.

In my friend's case, he didn't know the truck he was trying to pull out of a ditch had this condition. And a rope was being used to connect his truck to the stuck truck's draw bar. When he floored it, the rope stretched until the draw bar slipped out. Then it flung the draw bar through the top of his tail gate, causing it to rotate end-over-end so the square was facing forward as it punched through his back window, and then his skull. As his head came forward, the draw bar came out again, and nearly went through the cab at the top of the windshield - that's how much energy a rope (or strap) can store.

A cable or transport chain can't do that, which is why I prefer them for vehicle recoveries. Unless something else springy breaks during the pull, a chain or cable will simply fall to the ground.

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JackLR.JPG | Hits: 4207 | Size: 65.11 KB | Posted on: 8/22/09 | Link to this image


Land Rover Bottle Jack used in Discovery, Discovery Series II, & pre-'03 Range Rover (Classic & New).
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
chy-neez copy

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SpareSlideout88.JPG | Hits: 3828 | Size: 106.04 KB | Posted on: 12/12/11 | Link to this image


"Tire Tuk" Spare Slideout Tray '88 F150

I assume this is aftermarket, but I've certainly never seen one like it before. Only the near corner appears damaged.

Looking closely at the molded handle, it appears to say "Tire Tuk, Inc., Garland, TX"


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SlottingChisel.jpg | Hits: 1096 | Size: 59.19 KB | Posted on: 6/2/18 | Link to this image


Slotting chisel in an air hammer is the quickest way to cut sheet metal, with virtually no sparks.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

See also:
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SwingawayType1.JPG | Hits: 5110 | Size: 70.67 KB | Posted on: 9/19/07 | Link to this image


Swingaway Spare Tire Carrier, Type 1
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Used on '78~89 Broncos & has a teter-bar catch, like type 2.

Type 2 -

Type 3 -

To prevent the carrier buckling the quarter panel, add a tether & reinforcements:
. .

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SwBrkts80-86.JPG | Hits: 4271 | Size: 55.91 KB | Posted on: 12/8/06 | Link to this image


Type 1 ('80-86) Swingaway Brackets have sharply angled straight corners to match the older body. '87-96 have smoother curves and will fit '80-96.
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To prevent the carrier buckling the quarter panel, add a tether & reinforcements:
. .

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SwingawaySwap.JPG | Hits: 2941 | Size: 65.79 KB | Posted on: 4/27/09 | Link to this image


Someone suggested that the curved body brackets of Type 2 & 3 swingaways wouldn't fit an '80-86 body's squared corners. So to make installing my 4-way lug wrench carrier easier, I swapped my spare Type 3 swingaway on. No problems. I could have swapped the swingaway frame onto my original squared body brackets, but I wanted to test this, and I might sandblast & powdercoat the old one.

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To prevent the carrier buckling the quarter panel, add a tether & reinforcements:
. .

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SwingawaySleeve3.jpg | Hits: 30 | Size: 34.54 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


The strike sleeve for a Type 3 swingaway can be re-used even after being worn through.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

If that doesn't work, I've begun making new replacement sleeves.


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SwingStrikeSleeve90-96.jpg | Hits: 159 | Size: 40.88 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Type 3 Swingaway Strike Sleeve Dimensions
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

At the upload date, new replacements are NOT available.

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But, I've begun making new sleeves.


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SwingawayType2.JPG | Hits: 4550 | Size: 68.93 KB | Posted on: 7/23/07 | Link to this image


Type 1 ('78~86) has a 2-screw notched strike for a teter-bar catch, a J-bolt mount, an UNreinforced arm, & straight body brackets.
. .

Type 3 (~'90~96) has a 3-screw bolt strike for a remote-controlled catch, a 3-lug mount, the arm reinforcement is 2 separate tubes, & round body brackets.
.

To prevent the carrier buckling the quarter panel, add a tether & reinforcements:
. .

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SwingawayBolt.jpg | Hits: 1534 | Size: 116.8 KB | Posted on: 8/12/14 | Link to this image


Swingaway Bolts for '78-96 Broncos


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SwingXtract.jpg | Hits: 243 | Size: 68.2 KB | Posted on: 2/26/22 | Link to this image


Swingaway Bolt Extraction
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

These bolts are notorious for breaking, due to the constant exposure to dirt thrown into the quarter panel by the rear tire, and water coming in around the taillight. Fortunately, these both broke inside the swingaway bracket, leaving some exposed bolt to work on.
1) Use a light BP hammer to vibrate the bolt so the penetrating oil can work into the threads from both ends. Wire-brush the inside threads as clean as possible;
2) Grip the exposed stub as tightly as possible, and gently but firmly rock it back & forth to determine how badly it might be seized. If movement is detectable, add penetrating oil and slowly increase the distance the stub is unscrewed;
3) If necessary, use a torch to heat the nut inside the body, being careful not to scorch the wiring (Aluminum foil is effective at protecting it) or the paint;
4) When the bolt loosens, keep its threads wet with penetrant while unscrewing it.


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Tether.JPG | Hits: 4005 | Size: 43.98 KB | Posted on: 11/14/09 | Link to this image


Swingaway Tether prevents quarter panel damage if the tire carrier is unlatched while driving, but doesn't interfere with the t/g. The spare also acts as a counterbalance to slow the t/g if it gets dropped. The snap hooks make it easy to disconnect if needed, but this length & these attachment points allow the t/g to work without removing the tether. I used vinyl-coated 3/32" cable so it wouldn't abrade the truck or make noise.

In conjunction with a brace in the body, it almost eliminates quarter panel damage from the swingaway.

.

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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SwingawayNutPlatePU3.jpg | Hits: 29 | Size: 61.58 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


'78-96 Bronco Swingaway Nut Plate will fit F-series
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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SwingawayNutPlatePU4.jpg | Hits: 28 | Size: 72.21 KB | Posted on: 2/16/24 | Link to this image


'78-96 Bronco Swingaway Nut Plate will fit F-series
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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TireCoverEB.JPG | Hits: 1806 | Size: 90 KB | Posted on: 10/17/12 | Link to this image


Tire Cover (F6TZ9845026AAA) construction
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

F1TZ-9845026-CAG - Spare tire cover Nite Bronco - Pink
F1TZ-9845026-CAM - Spare tire cover Nite Bronco - Blue

Possible sources for replacements include Tim on eBay and angie_m89@hotmail.com .
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367146





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SwingawayPad.jpg | Hits: 110 | Size: 53.54 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Swingaway Pad
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The factory paint-protector pad is self-adhesive vinyl, with 2 pushpins in most '92-up tailgates to keep it from sliding when the swingaway bounces. Since it's not available, and I don't like putting more holes in the tailgate, I'm replacing it with UHMWPE tape which should remain slick enough not to need the pushpins.

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TireDate.jpg | Hits: 17 | Size: 59.6 KB | Posted on: 2/18/24 | Link to this image


Tire Date Code
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Tires are dated because they age when exposed to air (Oxygen), regardless of miles, tread depth, or damage. The 3rd 4-digit group in the DOT number is the Julian week (00-52) and the last 2 digits of the year that the tire was manufactured. 6-year-old tires are risky at highway speeds; 8-year-old tires are dangerous at road speeds.


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SnugLug.JPG | Hits: 2529 | Size: 62.64 KB | Posted on: 4/27/09 | Link to this image


I could have installed this lug wrench carrier & tire lock (whose cover I had powdercoated at the same time as the 4-way) on my original '83 (Type 1) swingaway, but it would have required drilling some LARGE holes through some heavy steel. It was much easier to swap this Type 3 swingway on. I've decided not to keep it because a Type 3 holds the tire a few inches higher, so it blocks more of the rear view. And the wrench holder sticks out, so it interferes with my fold-up hitch hauler.

. . . . . .

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SpareIn96XL.JPG | Hits: 3356 | Size: 66.71 KB | Posted on: 12/2/09 | Link to this image


Interior Spare Mount Bracket

Tire mounting hardware missing

. . .

. .

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CenterCapCtr.jpg | Hits: 114 | Size: 49.86 KB | Posted on: 8/3/22 | Link to this image


Original Metal Center Caps can be restored by polishing the chrome with 0000 steel wool, but if the centers are foggy, they have to be replaced. Fortunately, replacements became available in 2021 for ~$16/set.

Replacement cap assemblies are plastic, and are supplied with common screws instead of the specially-shaped original screws.

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CenterCapAnchors.jpg | Hits: 884 | Size: 37.63 KB | Posted on: 8/7/16 | Link to this image


Anchors for '83-96 Aluminum & alloy wheel center cap screws

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WheelArchMldg.jpg | Hits: 16 | Size: 61.94 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


'94-97 Wheel Arch Moulding Trim
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Earlier wheel arch mouldings were bare Aluminum pressed against the paint. This plastic edge can be transferred from a damaged moulding to a replacement not equipped.

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RunningBoardsEarly.jpg | Hits: 26 | Size: 48.7 KB | Posted on: 2/17/24 | Link to this image


Early Dealer-Option Running Board Kit
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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PickupSlidingRWdo.jpg | Hits: 132 | Size: 40.79 KB | Posted on: 1/29/22 | Link to this image


Rare Aftermarket Power Sliding Window for '80-96 F-series
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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Hook80-91.JPG | Hits: 1806 | Size: 48.95 KB | Posted on: 7/12/12 | Link to this image


Common aftermarket hooks are similar to (rare) stock '80-91 hooks, but the bolt hole spacing does NOT match the factory holes in an '80-91 frame. Having down-facing hooks opens the possibility of driving over a fixed obstacle (like a concrete wall) and becoming attached to it. It also allows straps, chains, cables, & ropes to fall off if they go slack. And because these Chinese hooks are very low-quality steel, they're not actually strong enough for hard pulls with fullsize trucks.

OE hooks & eyes are vastly superior, and can be had cheaper at junkyards.



Most will require new holes anyway, but the result will be stronger & safer than this aftermarket chrome junk.

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Visemount.JPG | Hits: 1899 | Size: 103.19 KB | Posted on: 11/29/12 | Link to this image


This vise has been in my way for a couple of years - now I can get some use out of it.

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StepSlide80.jpg | Hits: 469 | Size: 45.7 KB | Posted on: 8/29/19 | Link to this image


Automatic Step for '80-86 F-series/Bronco, also fits '87-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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20200709_141324.jpg | Hits: 245 | Size: 63.96 KB | Posted on: 7/11/20 | Link to this image


This TowSafe hitch has grenaded. The ball is still captive, but it rattles. The needle's spring is visibly unwound in the oil. I don't know the history of this hitch.

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TcaseChainGM.jpg | Hits: 321 | Size: 42.78 KB | Posted on: 8/2/20 | Link to this image


What's that noise? Could it be the transfer case chain? No, it looks fine.

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ChromePol.jpg | Hits: 51 | Size: 59.76 KB | Posted on: 3/3/24 | Link to this image


Chrome Polishing
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

This can be done dry, but removing as much dirt & grease as possible before starting makes the process quicker, and abrades the chrome less. Common steel wool will work, but it can leave Iron on the chrome that will show brownish red after a while, so stainless is better. This is a common dish scrubbing pad.

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TimingScale9549.jpg | Hits: 44 | Size: 44.51 KB | Posted on: 3/4/24 | Link to this image


4.9L Timing Scale
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

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