Saginaw powersteering pump out of a '91 Ford van, much better than the stock pump the Broncos came with. I'll cover the installation of the new pump here. Paid $35 buck for the pump and bracket from the yard. Make sure to get all the bolts.

Powersteering pump rebuild kit ordered from Advance, cost $15 bucks.

Used a pulley puller to separate the pump from the bracket. You'll need to do this for the rebuild.

Now I put it in a vise to remove the high pressure fitting and the other retaining bolt for the resevoir. The high pressure fitting takes a 1 inch wrench. It took some effort to turn it.

Top bolt removed.

High pressure fitting removed this is the flow valve behind it, flow valve should always be replaced. There is a seal on the high pressure fitting that will be replaced.

With the bolts removed from the resevoir and the unit in the vise, take a soft rubber mallet and hit the resevoir. The can should come right off.

This is what it will look like once the can has been removed.

In this pic you can see three of the seals that will be replaced.

In this pic you can see the retaining ring for the pump plate. This has to be removed. The is a small hole on the outside of the pump big enough to get a punch into. I gave the punch a couple of taps and the snap ring moved to where I could get it with a pick.

Here the retaining ring is about to come out. Be careful as there is a spring behind this that will cause the plate to shoot out if you're not careful.

With the retaining clip off the plate will not come out.

This is the spring behind the retaining plate.

I now removed the two other seals with my pick.

Flip the unit over and hit the shaft with a rubber mallet or hammer. Use something to protect the shaft from damage and small block of wood or something would work well. I was too lazy to do this.

I wound up putting it back in the vise and using a small socket to get the shaft the rest of the way out.

The internals of the pump coming out.

These parts will all come out before you complete remove the shaft from the pump. Make sure you don't lose any of the small flat pieces, they are the vanes.

Here's the shaft assembly completely removed.

The inside of the pump housing with everything removed.

The shaft had some scoring on it, so I used some fine grit sand paper and smoothed it out.

Remove the two large o-rings from inside of he pump. It was a little tricky getting the new ones to fit.

Removing the shaft seal was a pain, I wound up using a small chisel and then pried it up.

Jumping ahead, b/c the shaft seal was not wanting to come out I put the large o-ring on the case, this is the one that seals the resevoir to the housing.

Finally got the old seal out, and installed the new one. I used a socket the same size as the seal and gently tapped it in.

Installing the new inner o-rings.

Reinstalling the shaft. I used a rubber mallet to tap it down, it went in pretty easily. It was at this point, I realized I had forgotten to replace the bushing the shaft goes through. If the bushing is in good condition you don't have to replace in..

Put all of the vanes back in their respective slots and put the inner part of the pump back over it. There were two metal rods that came out upon disassembly that will be resinstalled here. It looks like they can fit in two different places, but only one set of the holes will work. They will press firmly into place.

Install the next part, again it can only go in one way so be patient. Once you get it right it will drop right in.

New seals for the fittings installed.

I used my u-joint press to push the plate down so I could get the retaining ring on, the pressure from the spring behind it makes it impossible to do by hand. A regular c-clamp would work just as well. Once the snap ring is in place, the rebuild is complete. Put your resevoir back on and your good to go.

Cleaned up the resevoir. It was covered in grease as most salvage yard parts are.

The resevoir for my pump on had the two holes, some have a 3rd hole. Make sure the high pressure fitting hole and the other bolt hole are both lined up.

After lubing the o-ring on the pump with some powersteering fluid. Lightly tap the resevoir on with a rubber mallet. (Note, the resevoir will not seat the whole way.) When the bolts are reinstalled it will tighten it up against the pump.

Reinsert the spring.

Reinsert the flow valve. It has been said you shouldn't reuse the flow valve. I cleaned mine of with carb cleaner and it was good to go.

Put the high pressure fitting bolt in. Again this uses a 1 inch wrench.

Put the top retaining bolt in and tighten it down this bolt is very short so be careful when tightening. I used an 18 mm closed end wrench for this.

And the pump is rebuilt.

Here the pump is reinstalled in the bracket, almost ready to put in the Bronco. Just need to put the pulley back on.

The pulley has been put back on and the pump is ready to be installed.

To install the pump, remove the tubes from the airbox to the throttle body, this will allow access to the top A/C compressor.

The A/C is now accessable.

Remove the serpentine belt.

Unplug the A/C harness, and move it out of the way, you don't want to risk ripping it off.

Start to remove the A/C bolts.

Once all of the bolts are removed use a bungee cord to hold the compressor out of the way. The bracket is now easily accessable.

Next I'll remove the high pressure line from the pump and then the gear box. My old C2 pump was really beat up. The plastic pulley was even chipped as was the top part of the resevoir.

It's a tight fit, but you'll be able to get a wrench in there to take the pressure fitting off.

The pressure fitting removed from the pump. At this point, don't forget to remove the return line otherwise you'll have a difficult time taking the pump out.

Now you can remove the bolts from the pump bracket, there are 3 bolts and one nut.

The bracket w/pump will lift right out.

So here they are side by side, the most noticeable difference is the C2 resevoir is much smaller than the Saginaw, and it's also made of plastic. The C2 uses a plastic pulley and the Saginaw's is steel. What were they thinking. In addition, the bolts used to secure the A/C compressor to the bracket are larger in diameter so it requires some drilling.

Here you can see the difference in the diameter of the compressor bolts. The one on the right works with the Saginaw bracket.

I located a bit that would allow me to ream the holes out to the appropriate size. Basically I just matched the diameter of the bolts with the drill bit and went to work. This was a little tricky.

These aluminum shavings will go everywhere so be careful you don't get them into your airbox or throttle body.

Mount the high pressure hose. I reused my old hose, but had to use a tube bender to get the correct bend in it. This is not very difficult, you can pick a bender up for about $10 bucks at your local auto parts store.

Here you can see the bend I put in the tube, the allows you to get around the return line.

Now the bracket goes back in.

Reinstall the bolts on the front of the bracket.

The pumps in the return line is attached.

Here is a better angle of the bend I put in the high pressure hose to make it fit at the gear box. Make sure the fitting threads properly into the gear box.

Put the A/C compressor back on.

Reinstall the serpentine belt. I put the stock one on but it felt to tight so I stepped up one size. Don't forget to add powersteering fluid.

This is the model serp belt I used, works perfectly. with a 302 and the sag swap.

Here it the pump working. Dollar for dollar, this was one of the best mods I have done. The pump doesn't whine and it turns the tires effortlessly even in park.

This is the hose from an early '90s Ford van, NAPA part 7-1483, the routing is a little unusual, but it works and all of the connections bolt up without binding.

This is the correct belt for a sag swap on a 351W with the smog pump deleted.