Here is thecenter dash insert for the radio. this will replace the eq and tape player and the radio.

here is a different angle of the 2 parts.

I needed to build a mount for the sub-amp and fuse block. I got a few of these bed rails. they make great metal for different projects. in this case i wanted a bord under the pass seat and off the floor. so i started with a bed rail like this one.

after a few measurements i cut out the front support. This will bolt to the amp, fuse panel and to the seat frame so it does not fly around as we drive.

i found this scrap from another project. this will work fine here and i laid out where things would go and make sure it all fits.

Here is the mount from the front.

This is how it will all fit. not too bad. there is enough space so the power does not bleed into the amp.

after cleaning the cutout up some i hit it with primer and paint. i then bolted the front bracket to it.

Here it is from the front. looks good

all the holes were pre-drilled so I installed the sub amp to the board.. I cut alittle off each screw so they did not poke thru the board.

Here is a view from the front of the amp.

I now installed the fuse block. there will be one fuse per amp.

Here is a view from the front. the bracket will now bolt to the front of the pass seat. where there are already holes.

ok- now for the rear amp. i looked and checked almost everywhere. i was going to cut a hidden box in the floor but this layout works fine for me. here is the spare tire with the carpet removed and the tie down loose (for picture purpose only)

there is alot of space here. i just need to move the anchor out some and do some trimming. here is the same spot with the tire moved.

this bottom mount is bolted with 14mm bolts thru the floor. i removed them and put the support to side. the large o-bolt is threaded into the side wall of the body. i removed it just to have more working space.

i tried to set this in a few different ways and this looks best. i was going to make a mount and bolt this to it, but decided to cut the trim panel as it had a few cracks in it anyway.

a dramel makes the trim a fast and painless task. i checked the gap between the inside body and the outside body and used tek self drilling screws to mount the amp.

here are the new rear top factory location speakers. i got them from a local audio place.

here is the front side. these will make great sounds.

i got some 14AWG monster wire. i only want to do this once. i removed the rear pillar panel and the top steel trim panel. i then looked to see the best way to run the wires and have them out of the way.

to allow the top more flex i removed the drivers side rear hanger support.

one philips screw and the holder is out. i placed it aside so it can be installed later.

i ran the wires up the driverside pillar.

here is a closer view of the install portal i used.

If you are going to do this do it right. i got a wireless solder gun and some solder and solderless connectors (crimp connections) i removed the plastic insulation and crimped and soldered the connector and put some shrink wrap on the connection to protect it.

i taped the speaker wires together so they look better and stay out of the way of other things.

this picture is mostly for me to remember which wire went to whick post. i i was going to use color match shrink wrap but i ran out so the letter side is the POS (+) and the plain is the NEG (-).

i connected the wires and put the 4 sheet metal screws in the bracket and mounted the speaker.

here is the pass side speaker and it installs the same way.

there was not much room i might have to put a foam spacer between the magnet and roof panel. i have to see as these are mid and highs not base.

ok-these stock speaker grills have 2 tabs and 2 swivel mounts. you put the tabs into the head liner and then thru the topside of the roof liner you swivel the other two tabs and the cover stays in place.

to keep all in some sort of org. i tined the ends of the speaker wires and installed them in the amp. now the rear upper deck speakers are installed and ready for sound.

ok--now to the drivers side rear door speaker. these were replaced but i did not know the quality so out the stockers come. here is inside the "Jack" storage compartment i laid the wires out of the way.

there was enough space to run it out under the panet without cutting it. i ran it under the trim panels.

this is the door pillar between the drivers door and the rear door after removing the floor covers (3 phillips screws) this panel has clips and pops right off with little force.

here again this is more for me. letter is hot side. i solder and shrink wrapped the connections. if you have drafts from your door handles or rattels this is a good time to fix these.

after i got the door panel off i found out why it was so loose. here is on carrot expect to replace all of them they are supose to be re-usable but almost never are they. this is even the wrong one and installed wrong.

here is the whole door panel a few of the metal support mounts were torn from the door. you can see them missing they were still stuck to the door.

this is a closer view. you can see it was torn right off.

here is the other one that was ripped off.

here are the brackets. i removed the old glue and door liner. reinstalling is easy line them up where they should be and hot glue them in place.

this was also the work of the radio shop that installed the "Upgraded speakers".............one reason i do my own stuff...

there are 8-10 1/4" hex plastic screws holding the door pocket in place. i took them out and set the door panel to the side. here is the speakers that were installed in the door. they looked ok but again not sure and i knew i had better.

here is the front side. there was a screen on the pocket but they were lost long ago.

these came with the dubs, but i think a finger would find its way in too easy.

i got a set of round covers from the local audio store. not too bad of cost. i drilled the door pocket and used pop rivets to secure.

here it is with the screen in place. looks good

here are the dubs

4 screws and the dubs are in place.

i found i had to trim the door panel to fit the dubs.

all new carrots instaled and then ready to install.
I found out the power motor was in the way so i had to fall back on a set of crystal audio speakers. they fit fine.

here is the drivers side completed.

Now time to do the pass side rear door. here is the door as it started. you can see it too was missing the factory screen protector.

to remove the door panel you remove the 2 ash tray screws. one arm rest screw and pop off the window switch trim.

here is the stripped door. this was just after the door panel was removed.

8 screws remove the door pocket as it was on the other door.

again here is the old speaker. the crimp connection was not even connected. out this speaker came.

here is the new cover just sitting on the door pocket.

Here is the back side of the new grill. it normally screws to the speaker and sandwhiches the door.

to install the grill was easy center the cover the old speaker opening. Mark the 4 mounting holes.

i off set the 4 speaker mount holes and the grill holes so there was no issues.

and here is the completed grill install

i then installed the new crystal audio speaker.

re-install the 8 door pocket screws and the panel is almost ready for install.

i went to a few different places and they were out of the correct door carrots. so i got a multi pack of these.

a cutoff wheel in the dramil and a few seconds of trimming i made the stock looking rectangle carrot.

well in came the rain so i had to return to the house so i felt this was a good time to make the few patch cables i needed. here is the power cable for the sub amp.

here is the power and remote power on for the frontamp.

here is the amp ground. i was able to make one for each amp out of this amount of wire.

here is the sub speaker box wiring. i need the box to be able to be removed if needed so i put a set of spade connectors on the other end.

ok-another break in the rain. now to run the door speaker wires.
this is the door sill and 3 screws the trim is out.

here is the new speaker wire i ran it thru the factory routing to get in the door.

again this was a good time to fix the vapor blocker. you can see i got the connectors on the wire ends now.

there is a trim panel that crosses the rear cargo area. i took the 5 screws out and pulled the cover.

here is the door panel reinstalled.all that is left here is the switch trim panel.

here is the switch trim panel. it is held in by 5 friction pins. i used a trim panel and worked them out and the panel came right out.

here is the completed door.

here is the space below the pass seat. the sub amp and power block will work great here. out of sight and lots of air.

i bolted the mount in place and this allowed the amp to float some.

lots of air is avalable.

i made a small slot in the carpet for the wires. this is only seen with the seat all the way forward and tilted forward.

i bolted the mount to the seat. i used some lock washers to hold it tight.

here is the amp all connected and the red is the power to the other amp and remote switch wire.

here is the stock radio and cas. deck

this is the stock cass deck and eq. we had the Ipod adapter in the tape deck since the radio was not working.

ok - to get the radio out you need to pull the dash bezel out 4 allen bolts and a few clips it comes right out. you can see the rear defrost and wiper plugs at the bottom.

after unplugging the radio from the tuner and the tape/EQ to the tuner and the amp and speaker plugs out came the old radio, eq/tape, tuner box, and the amp (under the drivers seat. here are all the parts.

you are left with these holes. one above the ac/heater adjust and one in the center of the dash.

here is the stock radio plug. i need the all time hot/ switched hot and the ground out of it. the rest will all be new wires.

while swapping out the radio i say the ac/heater adjuster was broken. i just used some super glue and fixed her right up.

i could not find a grey storage cubbie so i opted for black. it is held in place with 4 screws (same ones that held the radio controller in place.

ok time to swap the speakers out. this dash split and broke alot under the cover. the dash had 1 crack and now it has alot of them. the speaker cover pops right off.

this was the upgraded speakers the PO had installed. these sound good and will goto the motorhome.

4 screws and the swap was done. i installed new speaker wire as well.

For the pass side i dropped it along the stock wire harness.

in this picture you can see i followed the stock wire loom. the dash had broken so much i had the not use the speaker cover or trim it to allow the speaker to sit flat. the cover was already broken so trimming did not bother me too much.

ok- now the wires were done time to re-install the glove box and door.

here is the drivers side speaker as i started.

this is the speaker the PO had installed.

here is my new speaker installed.

i ran the new wires to the new radio location. here are the 2 front speakers and antenna jack

here is the radio i was going to use. it was only in our other car 6 months. the person i paid to install it should be shot and dragged untill gone. i was very displeased with the work. all connections had issues.

ok time to get power to the power block under the pass seat. on the firewall on the pass side under a plastic cover (held on by 3 plastic nuts) is a power disti block. i ran the amp power wire to it and selected a bolt. (all have the same power)

i ran the power wire down and under the ac dryer.

i went behind the raditor over flow and thru the same gromet that the antenna went thru. i just trimmed a hold for it to pass thru.

here is a different view showing there was no share edgings near the wire and it does pass thru the gromet.

i had to pull the sill plate of the pass side door and lift the carpet and pull the kick panel. i ran the wire down the center hump of the trans tunnel under the carpet.

I pull it out of the carpet next to the seat. i then soldered a end and installed it into the fuse panel.

ok-now complete the radio install. i connected the full hot tot he stock radio full hot. I connected the ignition hot to the stock plug and the ground to the stock ground and the front speakers to the radio pigtail and installed. i connected a remote signal wire and the RCA plug to the radio and installed the radio.

one last look at the new "Cubbie" i going to make a non-slip bottom and hold the Ipod and cell phones in this spot.

now to complete the back amp. i needed to move the spare tire out 3" so the new amp had room to breath and the spare would be in the stock location. i took an 8" steel mending plate and cut it in half. i then opened one hole to hold the stock bolts. I painted the brackets black i used 3/8 carrage bolts in the stock tire mount holes. the other holes will be the stock bolts going into the floor.

a real fast cleanup and you can see the stock floor holes. there is a nut welded to the floor under the floor.

you can see the tire mount in place. it is just 2-2 1/2" out more than stock.

here is all the old stock radio parts. the factory amp was located under the drivers seat.

one last view of the old stock system

ok- back to the tire install. i cut a couple 2X4 blocks to space the tire out some. i had to cut 2 45 degree angles on the bottom to fit into place. i got 8X65MM bolts to replace the stock bolts. i then bolted both blocks in place.

i then installed the plastic covers. i just used 4 drywall screws. this works fine. i then cleaned the amp wires up and went to the next step.

i did not have to change the hold down for the tire. i put it on as it went on before.

here is the final install. there is plenty of room for the amp and spare tire. it almost looks like the factory installed this. i am still able to remove the rear seat without issues.

you can see where the old tire stops were and where they are now. the tire does not move at all and is secure.

here is looking down from the top --you can see the amp but not from the outside window.

the tire does not rub the window eather. there is plenty of space.

and i put on the tire cover as it came from the factory. a fast vaccum and she looks good. this system sounds great i got funny looks as i was thumpping next to a few cars.....the pink purse was the wifes ---not mine--mine is blue......lol......no i do not have a purse....lol.....job completed!!!!!