KRL1003A (bottom)

Sockets, Extensions, Ratchets, Impacts, Torque sticks, Torque wrenches, Torx drivers

TO GET ACCURATE TORQUE READINGS:
Your torque wrench is a precision instrument. Given proper care it should give many years of satisfactory use. For best results and accurate readings, follow these instructions.

Torqometers
1. Each time the Torqometer is used, be sure the dial and pointer are set correctly.
2. To make it easier to read the dial, it is possible to place the pointer in any desired position. Turn the dial unitl the pin bears against the pointer. Then turn both the pin and the pointer 1/4 turn past the position desired. Finally, turn the dial in the other direction. The pointer will follow the pin back until it reaches the desired position.
3. Set the dial of the Torqometer by using either of the following methods.

Method A:
.a) Turn the dial until the pointer is on zero.
.b) Place the Torqometer on the fastener.
.c) Pull until the pointer reaches the torque required.
.d) Make sure the pointer returns to zero. If not, re-set the dial and pull again.

Method B:
.a) Turn the dial until the pointer is at the mark required. (On right hand threads, set to the left of zero - on left hand threads, set to the right of zero.)
.b) Place the Torqometer on the fastener.
.c) Pull until the pointer reaches zero.
.d) Make sure the pointer returns to the pre-set value. If not, re-set the dial and pull again.

5. For an accurate reading, the final turn of the fastener should be made with the Torqometer.
6. The hub of the pointer contains a clutch which allows the stem to turn within the hub if a sudden impact occurs. This important safety feature protects the dial mechanism from shock damage. If a fastener suddenly breaks, it may change the pointer setting. Reset the dial and proceed as before.
7. Work on fasteners with lubricated threads.
8. A Torqometer does not need lubrication. Do not attempt to oil it.

Click-Type Torque Wrenches
The correct amount of torque has been applied when the wrench makes an audible click while the handle moves freely for a few degrees. This combined sound and movement indicate that the selected torque has been reached. The torque wrench can be used for either clockwise or counter-clockwise application. It is not necessary to re-set the wrench unless a different torque setting is desired.

To Set the Desired Torque:
1. Unlock the torque wrench setting by turning the lock ring to the right (clockwise viewed from the bottom). An arrow above the lock ring also indicates how to unlock the torque wrench.
2. The desired torque can be set by turning to the number indicated on the barrel. Line up the zero on the sleeve with the center line on the barrel (See figure 1). Then add the reading obtained by turning the sleeve clockwise as shown in figure 2.
3. Lock the torque setting by turning the lock ring left (counter-clockwise), as shown by the arrow above the lock ring. The torque wrench is then ready for use.
4. The small hex screw in the lock ring can be tightened down to prevent the lock ring from moving when a series of fasteners must be torqued evenly. Never attempt to change torque settings without first loosening this set screw so that the lock ring moves freely.
Note: Models with metric markings can be set as explained above for direct readings in kilograms-meter or newton-meters.

A Few suggestions:
1. If the torque wrench has not been used for some time, operate it several times to re-distribute a thin film of lubricant on the working parts.
2. To assure an accurate torque application, keep your hand centered on the handle grip while using the torque wrench.
3. Don't forcibly unscrew the handle grip below the lowest torque reading.
4. Don't forcibly turn the handle grip with the lock ring in the "Lock" position. This could damage the locking device.
5. Do not apply more torque than the rated capacity of the torque wrench.
6. Always store the torque wrench with the torque setting in a low position.

If your Torqometer or Snap-on Click-Type torque wrench needs repairs, either send it to the nearest Snap-on Branch Office, or give it to your Snap-on representative. Do not attempt to repair it yourself. The torque wrench will be sent to an authorized Snap-on Repair Center where it will be put in first-class condition, (or replaced if necessary). During the 90-day guarantee period, no charges will be made for repairs unless they are caused by obvious signs of abuse. A nominal charge for repairs not covered by the guarantee will be made on the basis of actual cost. The repaired torque wrench will carry a new 90-day guarantee. A series of torque wrench testers is available from Snap-on for checking the accuracy of torque wrenches. See your Snap-on representative for more information on torque wrench testers.

Brushes, Grease (specialty), Needle files, Adhesives

Oil filter wrenches, Stethoscope, Trim tools, Specialty tools

Files, Saws, Snips, Chain wrenches, Clutch alignment

Electrical

Pressure/Vacuum

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Inch Wrenches, Adjustable, Pipe, Distributor

Hammering, Scraping, Drifts, Die grinders, Bearing driver, Slide hammer

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Timing light, Bearing packer, oversize, spare parts

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Hex, Triple-square, & Spline

Tubing, Brakes, Fluid collection

Scanners, Hones, Gasket Punches

Paperwork

Soldering & Random

Overflow

Soldering gun (in box)
Battery load tester (same color red as the tool box)

Transmission tailhousing caps

Rivets

Bearing drivers & ViseGrips

Measuring

Presses, pullers, & clamps

New winch motor for my 2-post.

See also:

$300 CraigsList find - worth at least double.

This 8" variable-speed grinder wasn't as expensive as I expected, and seems to work perfectly. I just don't have enough bench space to mount it.

. . .

This cheapo grinder seems to be worth the $45 I paid, but I had to change both wheels, which cost another ~$20.

. . .

These grinders have been filling my work bench, and filling the area around it with shavings. Now I can easily move them around or out, but they're solid enough to actually use. I'm painting it, and later, I'll add wheels at the front corners.

.

I welded 3 small boxes together to give me enough room for wiring, and to position the outlets on the outer faces, so the cords wouldn't interfere with the rotating grinders, or keep the stand from backing up to a wall. The lamp is wired straight to power now, so it will work whether a grinder is on, or not. The unused outlets are available like an extension cord, and GFCI-protected.

Other than the wheels, it's done. The GFCI protects everything, including the lamp, which now works independently of the grinders. There are extra outlets on the other side, and the rotating grinders don't hit the plugs.

I finally got around to putting the wheels on. They only touch the ground when it's tilted forward.

. . .

This shows that the grinders flip, and the closeup shows the locking pin & retaining bolt, which can also be used to attach a water tray. The recessed wheels in the base allow the whole contraption to be moved relatively easily, considering its weight & bulk. I hooked up a ~60' cord (just because I had it) to the outlet box on the stand so it can be used anywhere, but I may swap to a shorter cord once I build a shop.

. . .

These were about $1300 delivered from BRWeldingSupply on eBay. I'll also have to buy bottles, and since no one sells a cart for this machine with 2 bottles, I'll have to build that.

These were about $350 from the local NexAir.

I've had these precut angle iron braces lying around for years, and now they're getting used. I think I only had to cut 3 of them.

This is mostly old material that has been lying around for years, covered in Rustoleum Sail Blue (7724). Eventually, I'll add shelves or trays for the pliers, hammer, & other tools. But it's basically finished, and does what I wanted. It makes cord storage easy, carries both bottles & the spool gun, and provides space for any other related tools & supplies. All in a package that fits easily in the NARROW walkway in my garage, and doesn't take up much floor space, and can be rolled out into my side yard where I put the 220V outlet.

The base is 14.5 x 29.5", but the front handle sticks out another 1.5". The tallest point is 50.5" above the floor, without the bottle cover hanging on it.

Of course, right after I bought those orange wheels, I found some similar BLUE ones...

Power Switch Relocation
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The rear power switch was driving me nuts, and it wouldn't have been workable on the cart I built, so I moved it to the front panel, where it BELONGS. I soldered in automotive (high-temp & oil-resistant) stranded 10ga wire, which is superior to the original 12ga, so there won't be any issues with it. There's very minor interference between the switch wires & the edge of the rectifier plate at this location, so moving it up ~1/4" or rotating it 90 degrees might have been slightly better, but I'm happy. I did tape up the original switch hole on the back inside & out to preserve the airflow through the case.

Later, I labelled the switch.

The labels almost make it look factory. They're from a Brother P-Touch PT-2430PC using 12mm white-on-clear strong-adhesive tape.

I don't understand why Miller did half the crap they did on this machine, but the nylock nut here was just dumb. The spring will keep this wingnut from vibrating loose, and even if it doesn't, a little blue threadlocker will.

These gloves are really poorly sewn - the thread isn't heat-resistant; the stitching isn't rip-stop; and the inside & outside seams commonly come apart (if they're even sewn at all). But they are cheap and SOOOOOO comfortable to work in, in any weather. The lining is just thick enough to keep my fingers warm in winter & to soak up sweat in summer, and the soft leather is just thick enough for good heat & spark protection. They don't restrict finger movement at all, or require extra grip strength just to flex the glove. They give excellent feel and dexterity without falling off or being difficult to remove. So as bad as they are, it's worth it to me to keep buying them - at least until I find a better glove that's made similarly.

I've since found some Hobarts that I like at Northern Tool for ~$28/pr that last MUCH longer.

In addition to the welder, spool gun, bottles, hoods, gloves, tips, & spools, the cart also carries vise grips of every size & shape, bar clamps, C-clamps, magnets, hammers, tapes, squares, & sleeves. But it occupies very little floor space, and fits easily through doors. The wide wheels roll OK off pavement.

I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but the 2nd square tube will allow the vise to mount horizontally.

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Out with the old (CRAP); in with the new! This Ridgid F-50 should outlast me. The red one is coming apart, and was never very good.

Husqvarna riding mower clutch & PTO switch

Husqy 435
It's tiny, but it's doing everything I need so far.

Amazing what you can find at the local salvage warehouse.

Too bad this is the day AFTER the last snow of the year melted.

10,000# Load Cell Hanging Scale

~$265 on eBay UN-calibrated

NOT MINE (dammit)

This was auctioned locally with BSOD. The buyer re-seated one of the boards in the control box, and it works perfectly.

Bosch Bulldog SDS+Max hammer drill & accessories