File 82 of 182
Prev | Next

mastercyl9496.jpg | Hits: 5132 | Posted on: 11/10/11 | View original size (228.94 KB)

'87-96 Master Cylinder
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
'87-93 1/2-ton, & '87-96 w/o cruise Motorcraft BRMC63 (F4TZ2140E)
'94-96 w/cruise F4TZ2140FA

2004 - Master Cylinder Piston Assembly & Retainer Screw
2140 - Master Cylinder
2162 - Reservoir Cap
2C161 - Fluid Control Valve Assembly F8UZ-2C161-AA
2L454 - Brake Fluid Reservoir
# - threaded nipple for SCCDS ('94-96 only)


Line ports are 1/2-20 and 7/16-24 inverted flare.

Reverse-Bleeding Procedure (for air ONLY in the MC, HCU, & lines):
(Note that the entire system can be reverse-bled without opening any slave bleed valves, provided all their fluid ports are oriented to the top.)
1) Remove the cap from the reservoir.
2) Compress the RHR wheel cylinder fully by flipping one rubber boot forward and stabbing a flat screwdriver against the face of the piston beside the pushrod (catching any fluid that spills out of the reservoir); then allow it to slowly extend, making sure the pushrods remain properly-seated in the pistons & shoes. Repeat for the LHR.
3) Compress the RHF caliper piston fully, then the LHF, using a prybar between the outer pad & rotor.
4) Use a squeeze bulb to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and refill with fresh fluid from a sealed container.
5) Pump up the pedal (keeping fluid in the reservoir) & check for normal pedal feel with the engine idling. If air is still suspected in the system, use the following procedure...

Reverse-Bleeding Procedure for air in the wheel cylinders (as opposed to air only in the lines):
1) Remove the cap from the reservoir & fill it TO THE TOP with fresh fluid from a sealed container.
2) Then remove the pushrods from the RHR slave so the pistons can FULLY extend, drawing as much fluid as possible inside. If necessary, gently press the pedal to force the pistons out.
3) Open the bleeder & let out as much air as possible; then close the bleeder. Top up the reservoir & repeat for the LHR slave.
4) Replace the pushrods so the shoes & springs fully compress the slaves, driving air back to the reservoir. Prepare for fluid to spill out - keep it off the paint.
5) Pull the calipers off, remove the outboard pads, and put the calipers back in-place on the rotors.
6) Pump the pedal to fill them (the rotors SHOULD keep the pistons from shooting out, but check frequently and DON'T shoot the piston out of the caliper), top up the reservoir, and gravity-bleed them through the bleeders.
7) Use a squeeze bulb to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and fully compress the R caliper, then the L, then reassemble the pads properly.
8 ) Use a squeeze bulb to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, and refill with fresh fluid from a sealed container.
9) Pump up the pedal (keeping fluid in the reservoir) & check for normal pedal feel with the engine idling.

See also:
.