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autolock5brkdn.jpg | Hits: 2786 | Posted on: 3/31/15 | View original size (1.72 MB)

This lock was rusty & didn't fully engage, when I was able to force it to move. So I stripped it down, soaked all the parts in kerosene for a while, and then wire-brushed each one so I could figure out how it works, and if it was repairable. Turns out there's virtually no damage under the rust & grime that I removed, so I'm putting this one in my truck.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

UPDATE 5/31/16: It has been working reliably for over a year now, including frequent off-roading, pushing trees down, and even knocking a few stumps out of the ground.

Disassembly:
1) After removing the lock body assembly from the hub, wipe the grease off. Rinse in solvent (kerosene, mineral spirits, or parts cleaner) to remove as much residue as possible.
2) From the inboard end, use external snap ring pliers to expand the stator ring and push the sleeve through the body assembly. Tilt the stator assembly and lift the clutch spring tips out of the cam brake slot.
3) Remove the clutch spring cover, clutch spring, & spacer from the stator.
4) Use a pick to lift one end of the cam ring out of its groove, and work the ring out of the body.
5) Lift the cam lip opposite the brake slot, then lift the cam over the brake and out of the body.
6) Work the brake's tabs out of the body grooves, and lift out the brake.
7) Dump the sleeve assembly out of the lock body.
8 ) From the outboard end, compress the cup washer, pry out the spring ring, and remove the unlock spring from the sleeve. Remove its cup.
9) Push the stop ring out of the sleeve's groove, and remove it between the lock spring's coils.
10) Slide the sleeve out of the follower & gear.
11)Pry one of the follower's tangs over the lip of the gear, then the other, and allow the lock spring to separate them.

Clean all parts thoroughly, wire-brushing as needed to remove hardened grease, dirt, & rust scale. Wash in solvent, allow to dry, then apply a thin coat of disk-brake-rated (NOT marine) wheel bearing grease using a brush or by working mating parts together. Smooth & spread the grease by hand, and remove any excess. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, but it may be necessary to install the unlock spring last so the lock body can be held in the hub. For final lubrication & any subsequent light cleaning, submerge the lock body assembly in ATF every 30Kmi.

See also:
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Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.

There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.