File 21 of 183
Prev | Next

autolock5screw.jpg | Hits: 15515 | Posted on: 1/14/05 | View original size (41.35 KB)

5-Screw Auto Hub Lock
These use a single thick splined shim between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. Later designs used 3 washers. Install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second and splined washer last.

Before the C-washer can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint.

4-slot spanner nut - E5TZ1197A
4-tab lock washer - E5TZ1198A

. . . . . .

REMOVAL
1. To remove hub, first separate cap assembly from body assembly by removing the five capscrews from the cap assembly.
2. Remove cap assembly.
CAUTION: Do not drop spring, ball bearing, bearing race or retainer.
3. Remove rubber seal.
4. Remove seal bridge retainer (small metal stamping) from retainer ring space.
5. Remove retainer ring by closing the ends with needle nose pliers while pulling hub lock from wheel hub.

Bearing Retainer Installation:
1. Wash the cap bearing, race and retainer assembly in cleaner solvent and thoroughly dry the components. Repack the bearing with a lithium base grease. Positioning the bearing on the race with the balls visible, then snap the retainer into the race.
2. Remove the snap ring and flat washer from the inner end of the hub lock assembly.
3. Pull the hub sleeve and attached parts out of the drag sleeve.
4. Tip the drag sleeve to unlock the tangs of the brake band and remove the drag sleeve assembly.
NOTE: Never remove the brake band from the drag sleeve. Wash in cleaner solvent and air dry the drag sleeve and brake band. Lubricate the brake band and drag sleeve assembly with 1.5 grams (0.05 oz.) of Automatic Hublock Grease, or equivalent. Work the lubricant over the spring and the area of the drag sleeve under the spring.
5. The body assembly (excluding cap assembly, and brake band and drag sleeve assembly) should be dipped in Automatic Transmission Fluid, or equivalent and permitted to drip dry for a few minutes before proceeding with re-assembly.
6. Assemble one of the two tangs of the brake band on each side of plastic outer cage that is located in the window of the steel inner cage. It will be necessary to tip these parts to engage tangs in this position as the drag sleeve is positioned against the face of the cam follower.
7. Install washer and snap ring.

INSTALLATION
1. Remove excessive grease from hub-lock and hub splines prior to installation.
2. Start hub lock assembly into hub making sure large tangs are lined up with lock washer and the outside diameter and inside diameter splines are in line with the hub and axle shaft splines.
3. Install retainer ring by closing the ends with needle nose pliers and at the same time push hub lock assembly into the hub.
4. Install seal bridge retainer (small metal stamping) with narrow end first.
5. Install rubber seal over cap assembly.
6. Install cap assembly (make sure ball bearing, spring, bearing race and retainer are in place).
7. Tighten the five capscrews to 4.5-5.6 Nm (40-50 lb in) using the following sequence: tighten one, skip one, etc.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.

There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.