Early 5-screw auto hub lock operation.
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Locking and Unlocking Hubs
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Manual Locking Hubs
Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case in two-wheel drive and raise the front wheels off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged.
Automatic Locking Hubs
NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4WD from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.
Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in 2WD. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible "click" is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4WD and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.
When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging four-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.
Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will ensure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will "pop" out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction.
If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.
Should hub locks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and new lubricant FITZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (FITZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hub locks.
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Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.
There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.
In the manual hub, locking occurs when the locking knob is turned by hand. In the automatic hub, it is front axle shaft rotation that locks the hub. As long as the vehicle is in 2WD, the front wheels turn freely on the front axle. However, when the vehicle is shifted into 4WD, the front axle shafts begin to rotate. This rotation actuates a cam that moves the locking gear into locked position.
NOTE: THE INTRODUCTION OF THE CHAIN DRIVE TRANSFER CASE MADE IT POSSIBLE TO INSTALL AN ELECTRIC MAGNET CLUTCH TO SPIN UP THE FRONT END COMPONENTS AND AUTOMATICALLY ACTIVATE THE LOCKING HUBS. THIS, IN TURN, MADE FORD "TOUCH DRIVE" (ELECTRICALLY CONTROLLED SHIFT-ON-THE-FLY, ESOF) POSSIBLE.
Automatic Locking - Manual Shift Transfer Case
In order to initially activate automatic locking hubs in a vehicle with a manual shift transfer case, the vehicle is stopped, the transfer case lever is moved to 4H and the vehicle is ready to drive. In order to select 4L, if the vehicle has an automatic transmission, the transmission must be in NEUTRAL, not PARK, before making the shift. The hubs will automatically lock when the vehicle begins moving again. After this initial shift with the vehicle stationary, the transfer case may be shifted back and forth between 2H and 4H while the vehicle is moving, as long as the hubs remain locked. To shift in and out of 4L, the vehicle must always be stopped.
Unlocking Automatic Hubs - Manual Shift Transfer Case
To unlock automatic hubs with a manual shift transfer case, the operator shifts to 2H, stops the vehicle and reverses direction for a minimum of 10 feet in a straight line. If the vehicle was going forward, driving in reverse will unlock the hubs. If the vehicle was driving in reverse already, driving forward will unlock the hubs. What actually unlocks the hub from the axle is the release of the cam. This occurs because the axle shaft is no longer driven by the transfer case and when the hub cam rotates back to the disengaged position, the shaft is disengaged from the wheel and no longer rotates.
However, this all assumes that the transfer case has actually shifted. If, for some reason, such as driveline windup, the transfer case hasn't shifted to 2H, as soon as the vehicle moves forward (or backward) again, the front axle rotation will continue, the cam will ramp up again and the hubs will re-lock. 4WD owners may complain about this happening. If they do, it may simply be that they didn't get the torsional windup out of the system before shifting, or it may be an indication of the failure of a component in the transfer case or the hubs themselves.
![autohublocksop.jpg Early 5-screw auto hub lock operation.
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Locking and Unlocking Hubs
--------------------------------------
Manual Locking Hubs
Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case in two-wheel drive and raise the front wheels off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged.
Automatic Locking Hubs
NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4WD from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.
Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in 2WD. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible "click" is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4WD and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.
When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging four-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.
Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will ensure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will "pop" out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction.
If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.
Should hub locks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and new lubricant FITZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (FITZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hub locks.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.
There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.
In the manual hub, locking occurs when the locking knob is turned by hand. In the automatic hub, it is front axle shaft rotation that locks the hub. As long as the vehicle is in 2WD, the front wheels turn freely on the front axle. However, when the vehicle is shifted into 4WD, the front axle shafts begin to rotate. This rotation actuates a cam that moves the locking gear into locked position.
NOTE: THE INTRODUCTION OF THE CHAIN DRIVE TRANSFER CASE MADE IT POSSIBLE TO INSTALL AN ELECTRIC MAGNET CLUTCH TO SPIN UP THE FRONT END COMPONENTS AND AUTOMATICALLY ACTIVATE THE LOCKING HUBS. THIS, IN TURN, MADE FORD "TOUCH DRIVE" (ELECTRICALLY CONTROLLED SHIFT-ON-THE-FLY, ESOF) POSSIBLE.
Automatic Locking - Manual Shift Transfer Case
In order to initially activate automatic locking hubs in a vehicle with a manual shift transfer case, the vehicle is stopped, the transfer case lever is moved to 4H and the vehicle is ready to drive. In order to select 4L, if the vehicle has an automatic transmission, the transmission must be in NEUTRAL, not PARK, before making the shift. The hubs will automatically lock when the vehicle begins moving again. After this initial shift with the vehicle stationary, the transfer case may be shifted back and forth between 2H and 4H while the vehicle is moving, as long as the hubs remain locked. To shift in and out of 4L, the vehicle must always be stopped.
Unlocking Automatic Hubs - Manual Shift Transfer Case
To unlock automatic hubs with a manual shift transfer case, the operator shifts to 2H, stops the vehicle and reverses direction for a minimum of 10 feet in a straight line. If the vehicle was going forward, driving in reverse will unlock the hubs. If the vehicle was driving in reverse already, driving forward will unlock the hubs. What actually unlocks the hub from the axle is the release of the cam. This occurs because the axle shaft is no longer driven by the transfer case and when the hub cam rotates back to the disengaged position, the shaft is disengaged from the wheel and no longer rotates.
However, this all assumes that the transfer case has actually shifted. If, for some reason, such as driveline windup, the transfer case hasn't shifted to 2H, as soon as the vehicle moves forward (or backward) again, the front axle rotation will continue, the cam will ramp up again and the hubs will re-lock. 4WD owners may complain about this happening. If they do, it may simply be that they didn't get the torsional windup out of the system before shifting, or it may be an indication of the failure of a component in the transfer case or the hubs themselves.](https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470241/fullsize/autohublocksop.jpg)