You don't have to spend $130/pr on Warn Premium hub locks to get a lifetime warranty. And the Warns are no stronger than MileMarkers. ***SEE BELOW*** I've put ~100Kmi on these off-roading in mud/sand/rocks, and even towing another truck on the highway in FWD when my rear d'shaft was out. The only reason I changed them out today was that the knobs were starting to wear out. Hub locks (other than '87-88 flange-style) can be changed with the front wheels on the ground as normal, and the truck is even safe to drive with the locks removed, but the wheel bearings will lose grease & become contaminated.
The big red NOTICE sticker says not to add ANY grease to the locks - just make sure the wheel bearings are lubed & adjusted properly. Packing the hub lock with grease will prevent it from working.
***After breaking 3 sets of these in quick succession, I've changed my mind about their strength. I returned these for credit, and I'm now running factory 5-screw auto locks.***
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Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.
There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.
![hublocksnew.jpg You don't have to spend $130/pr on Warn Premium hub locks to get a lifetime warranty. And the Warns are no stronger than MileMarkers. ***SEE BELOW*** I've put ~100Kmi on these off-roading in mud/sand/rocks, and even towing another truck on the highway in FWD when my rear d'shaft was out. The only reason I changed them out today was that the knobs were starting to wear out. Hub locks (other than '87-88 flange-style) can be changed with the front wheels on the ground as normal, and the truck is even safe to drive with the locks removed, but the wheel bearings will lose grease & become contaminated.
The big red NOTICE sticker says not to add ANY grease to the locks - just make sure the wheel bearings are lubed & adjusted properly. Packing the hub lock with grease will prevent it from working.
***After breaking 3 sets of these in quick succession, I've changed my mind about their strength. I returned these for credit, and I'm now running factory 5-screw auto locks.***
[url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/840033][img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/840033/thumbnail/34out.jpg[/img][/url] . [url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/840034][img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/840034/thumbnail/35mess.jpg[/img][/url]
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Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.
There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.](https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/565568/fullsize/hublocksnew.jpg)