jdmeaux
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• Lafayette, LA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2009 |
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• 525 posts |
• 1
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 Posted:1/30/2011 18:19 |
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Depending on how long it was that the metal screws have been in (and if this is the OEM from the factory), the oxidation from the aluminum body will "freeze" them in. Liquid Wrench soaking is about all you can do, except to use a stout screwdriver to get them out. (Never use those cheap $1 screwdrivers you find at the front rack at the auto parts house. Always buy good tools.)
Keep constant pressure on them. Try tightening them first, then loosen them up. If the head slips, you are in a world of hurt getting them off. Also try giving them a tap with a hammer with the screwdriver on it.
I've even put small parts like a throttle body in boiling water for a couple of minutes before starting heavy handed work. Sometimes the heat will swell the part enough for the metal screw or bolt to break loose.
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PROUD MEMBER of www.crownvic.net
It's just a SUPER-DUTY Mustang GT Sedan. 198K miles and still rolling HARD.
1997 Crown Victoria P71 SVT *** ex-US Marshall service (the CAR)
STOCK?? I bet it was modified. 
13.26 @ 107.24 MPH 1/4 mi w/ me, tools, & full tank of 93 octane
I added CAI, NICHE 19 X 8.5 " wheels with 245/45ZR 19 rubbers, and completely rebuilt the front end with poly bushings, Kooks headers, 2 1/4inch exhaust, TCI 2200-2400 rpm Stall converter
.PLANS:: engine upgrade, 5.4L 2v stroker, rebuild interior in leather w/ buckets, thinking about turbos
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Not looking forward to doing that...but I have had to do that on some control arm bolts/pins are have gotten "rust frozen' into place so tight that nothing would free the unit. I have read about a electrical thermal heating bolts & nuts rusted in place (electromagnetic induction heating... ) but I can not use anything like that in this application because of the TPS is in a hard plastic housing....It couldn't handle a red hot heating process.... 
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