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707 hits | 77.64 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
The Taurus fan sits on the steel to check for fit and to allow me to drill locating holes for the 4 stock Taurus shroud mounting holes.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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735 hits | 41.38 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
Good idea to get four shorter bolts to install in place of the fan bolts as the old ones may interfere with the water pump, without the clutch fan after it's permanent removal.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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656 hits | 63.38 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
Finished, painted adaption frame for the Taurus fan. It will accept a stock Taurus fan, in the dark, at 2:00 a.m. by spinning off and on 4 nuts. It also bolts onto or off the Lincoln in one minute, with just 2 top mounted bolts.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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747 hits | 72.65 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
Top left and right you can see the two holes that will bolt into the 2 stock Lincoln rad shroud clip nuts. Also note the 4 nuts on the studs welded to the adaption frame(holding the fan on). Lastly look at the notches on the bottom of each angle stee...
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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711 hits | 61.5 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
Another shot of the notches cut into the angle steel, to allow them to slip into slots cut into the lower steel panel below the rad.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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661 hits | 72.9 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
Three 1/4" drill holes and connect them and you've got a notch that will accept the angle steel notch. This allows you to place the adaption frame into there and use just two upper bolts to keep the fan, on it's shroud, located in place.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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805 hits | 53.91 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
I grabbed a replacement T-stat housing, with a threaded provision for the sensor, for $18 CDN. After sticking in the sensor, and soldering in a quick disconnect wire, I realised there was a sensor above the T-stat housing already in the way, preventi...
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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790 hits | 70.92 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
The stock temp sensor was clocked right over the T-stat housing. Using a 1" deep socket I just tightened the stock temp sensor tower so it pointed slightly to the left and I was back in business.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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985 hits | 74.54 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
Plenty more room than the stock clutch fan's shroud gives you, in every way. I drilled and tapped the little welded (and nutted) tab in the top left of the picture to hold the stock Lincoln rad overflow tank in place.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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778 hits | 47.22 KB | Posted: 9/28/05
This pic is way out of focus, but maybe you can see the notched angle steel, ready to accept and locate the stock Lincoln overflow tank's lower tab.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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809 hits | 69.45 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
Here's a better shot of the resevoir retaining slot I fabbed up. Maybe you can make out the stick-on foam rubber I stuck on to prevent rubbing.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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1186 hits | 70.32 KB | Posted: 11/29/05
There's the stock Lincoln overflow tank in position, mounted around the taurus electric fan. Not a bad fit at all.
(Posted in: Taurus Electric Fan)

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997 hits | 66.6 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
My original 15 year old rad "done blowed up" on me. Luckily the aftermarket had me covered for well under $160.00 CDN.
(Posted in: Rad change)

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609 hits | 51.29 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
These transmission line fittings have O-rings and are dependent on them for proper "leak-free"sealing.
(Posted in: Rad change)

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517 hits | 50.33 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
Slip in the O-rings and make sure they seat properly.
(Posted in: Rad change)

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598 hits | 46.79 KB | Posted: 11/27/05
For the actual fitting to rad sealing I relied on ultra-copper sealant.
(Posted in: Rad change)

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697 hits | 40.53 KB | Posted: 3/5/06
(Posted in: Misc)

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593 hits | 55.99 KB | Posted: 3/5/06
(Posted in: Misc)

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659 hits | 59.09 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
(Posted in: Misc)

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682 hits | 55.88 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
(Posted in: Misc)

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721 hits | 54.71 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
(Posted in: Misc)

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693 hits | 6.07 KB | Posted: 12/1/07
64 pixels
(Posted in: Misc)

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929 hits | 59.12 KB | Posted: 5/8/10
(Posted in: Misc)

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1020 hits | 64.52 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
This is the much fabled SPOUT valve that you disconnect before setting the base timing. Pull the little greay part out of the harness.
(Posted in: SPOUT valve)

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1421 hits | 55.83 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
This is the height sensor. One or both ends start to jump off the ball studs it attaches to. This tells the comprssor to go on strike and you're riding around arse down until you fix it.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1450 hits | 50.23 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
One ball stud is bracketed onto the axle and the other is on the frame. They get dirty and rusty too. These are the studs the height sensor jumps off, disabling your compressor until the height sensor is stuck back on.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1167 hits | 49.51 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Here's the upper socket that pushes onto the ball stud. The shiny spring is supposed to keep pressure on the ball and keep it from jumping out/off the stud.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1169 hits | 46.71 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Here's the backview of the socket. In theory you're meant to deperss the spring with your thumbnail and allow the other side to click onto the ball stud.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1180 hits | 39.97 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Like anything set into plastic, the metal spring has a detent to allow removal of the spring. I used a tiny screwdriver to depress the tang/detent and the spring pushed out no trouble.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1090 hits | 34.97 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Once out you can see the cupped shaped part of the spring that is supposed to hold the ball stud in place (the rusty part).

(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1154 hits | 39.38 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Once out the spring is helpless to your will. I stretched the spring apart to put some life/spring back into it. It goes back into the plastic even more easily than it came out.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1950 hits | 56.94 KB | Posted: 3/10/06
Okay so I'm not the most trusting backyard mechanic. I tie-wrapped the crap out of it, even though it felt much tighter with the newly stretched spring and everything cleaned up.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1559 hits | 51.2 KB | Posted: 3/28/06
The ultimate solution ! Drilled through the ball stud and threaded it to 1/4-UNC-20 and spun it out to 3/4" away from bracket. The two lock nuts allow plenty of articulation and the lock washers won't let it jump off the ball. DONE !
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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1139 hits | 63.7 KB | Posted: 3/28/06
Started drilling out the ball. Went all the way out to 1/4 UNC-20 so only the ball is left with internal threads to allow spinning it onto the 1/4" stud.
(Posted in: Height sensor fix/repair)

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2272 hits | 67.3 KB | Posted: 8/3/06
This is a pic of a CV with Impala SS tailpipes. I want one 2 1/2" mandrel bent one, to which I'll add the missing 30" instead of the resonator they've added. I like their turn down ends though.
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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920 hits | 6.21 KB | Posted: 3/17/07
Walker 54016 gets you a mandrel bent 2 1/2" Dynomax tailpipe for the Impala SS. This just so happens to pass over the axle perfectly. From there to the back bumper you're on your own, but it's just straight pipe required and maybe a turndown or ricer...
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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632 hits | 32.85 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
Here's the Dynomax 2 1/2" mandrel bent Impala SS tailpipe, in the flesh so to speak. The bends are virtually identical to a panther's tailpipe bends.
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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549 hits | 38.95 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
The big difference from our replacement panther tailpipes is this pipe is fully 2 1/2" and mandrel bent. Ours are 2" with kinks EVERYWHERE. According to the exhaust chart stepping up from 2" to 2.5" makes for a 56% flow capacity increase ! That's not...
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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825 hits | 40.22 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
It's worth noting that CV in the first pic is using stock Chevy 2 1/4" tailpipes. Probably didn't know about Dynomax units that were 2 1/2" and mandrel bent. Can you see what I'm up to yet ?
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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572 hits | 40.88 KB | Posted: 8/1/07
The tailpipe gets us over the axle, around the airbag/coil spring and clears everything BUT... you need @ 22" of straight pipe and turn down to make it to the bumper. This is a 3" mandrel bent turn down and a 2 1/2" to 3" reducer, which should fill t...
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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771 hits | 47.24 KB | Posted: 9/17/07
Plenty of clearance around the airbag and the tank
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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679 hits | 41.73 KB | Posted: 9/17/07
Slightly better close up
(Posted in: Impala SS tailpipe)

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762 hits | 27.03 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
These brale/fuel line clips are for the 1990 Town Car. Almost all mine were so brittle they busted apart upon removal.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

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634 hits | 27.25 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
Another view of the clip. The two inner grooves take the brake lines and the outers take the fuel and vapour return lines.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)

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686 hits | 24.35 KB | Posted: 8/4/06
There's the part number, but forget about it, they're no longer available. These run along the driver's frame rail, but you're guaranteed to get one good one off each junker if you reach under the master cylinder.
(Posted in: Brake line hold down clips)