OilLeak.JPG
1145 hits | 69.37 KB | Posted: 11/6/06
(Posted in: 99 P71)

BuildSheet.JPG
1022 hits | 50.79 KB | Posted: 11/12/06
This is all that's left of the build sheet. I found it taped in the trunk under the carpet, adhered to the paint from years of water leaking in. I'm amazed I got it up in THIS good of condition, but much of it is illegible. I'll try to order a rep...
(Posted in: 99 P71)

HLSwBulbs.jpg
1464 hits | 39.72 KB | Posted: 11/25/06
Potential replacements for the crappy stock headlight switch bulbs. The LED will require a 500 Ohm resistor to keep its power consumption in spec.
(Posted in: 99 P71)

IgLockCyl99.JPG
7532 hits | 67.39 KB | Posted: 11/30/06
None of the keys I got with the car worked very well in the ignition, so I bought a new lock cylinder at the dealership & had a key cut by the numbers to match the doors. I assembled & installed the cylinder per the included instructions & it works ...
(Posted in: 99 P71)

OilLines1.JPG
1566 hits | 82.78 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
The clip is permanently attached to the line on the R. After removing the bolt from the top (not visible), swing the clip up to separate the lines.
(Posted in: 99 P71)

OilLines2.JPG
1385 hits | 64.58 KB | Posted: 12/5/06
The bolt head is hidden under the pile of grime.
(Posted in: 99 P71)

EmissionsLabel.JPG
3841 hits | 73.79 KB | Posted: 2/7/07
Emissions Label
(Posted in: 99 P71)

AC&BeltLabel.JPG
2388 hits | 78.95 KB | Posted: 2/7/07
A/C & Belt Routing Label
(Posted in: 99 P71)

CoilFix.JPG
3743 hits | 63.92 KB | Posted: 11/6/06
This is what I had to do after the #6 plug blew out of the head at 2AM Sunday 1,000 miles into a 1,400-mile trip to get the car home. The spark plug is glued in with CarGo QuikSteel epoxy putty, and held down with a plug socket & 3" extension. Then...
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

5553TimeSert.JPG
2077 hits | 67.35 KB | Posted: 11/16/06
$525 later, this arrived. #5553
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

5553Stuff.JPG
1796 hits | 86.78 KB | Posted: 11/16/06
This is the instruction page for using this kit:
http://www.timesert.com/html/triton_repair.html

...and this is the video:
http://www.timesert.com/video/Ford-sparkplug.wmv
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

5553Kit.JPG
2362 hits | 52.41 KB | Posted: 11/16/06
I ordered 3 extra inserts so I could fix all 8 holes. Brian at Promar Engine was very patient & helpful. These are the 14mm x 1.25mm x 16.8mm inserts TimeSert PN 51459.

http://www.promarengine.com/productsearch.asp
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

01Rigged.JPG
2184 hits | 68.31 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
This is how I made it the last 400 miles home, and another ~100 driving around before I got the TimeSert kit. Having the injector unplugged allows the rings to retain their oil normally, so no additional damage is done.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

02Rigged.JPG
4530 hits | 84.23 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The coil barely fits wedged between the extension & the fuel rail, which gives it the most strength to hold the spark plug down in the hole. Having the hole plugged prevents debris from entering the cylinder, and provides more balance to the engine ...
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

03Coil.JPG
2051 hits | 79.29 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The coil was damaged by the spark plug hammering it for ~15 miles, but I broke a little more away so it would fit on top of the extension.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

04Coil.JPG
1958 hits | 58.42 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
Since I didn't clean the wall of the head, the epoxy broke free easily, and I had no trouble backing the socket & plug out. Even the excess epoxy came out easily.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

05Hole.JPG
2075 hits | 54.72 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
I should have known the camera wouldn't focus on the bottom of the hole, but it's relatively free of epoxy residue or threads. There is some debris on the piston, but it will be cleaned out later.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

06FaceCutter.JPG
2020 hits | 80.08 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The first tool starts by cleaning out any remaining spark plug threads (red pointer), then uses a smooth pilot (white) to hold the cutter (blue) square to the hole.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

07FaceCutter.JPG
1819 hits | 75.78 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
Even the tools specifically sold for working on these heads aren't long enough to do the job with the valve covers in place, but I used a socket & extension on an air ratchet (per the instructions) to drive the cutter. It rubbed slightly on the fuel...
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

08FaceCut.JPG
2357 hits | 69.84 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
Following the instruction, I loaded the cutter with grease to collect the majority of the shavings. It worked well, and the few that did fall into the cylinder will be cleaned out later.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

09Reamer.JPG
3119 hits | 73.82 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
Next, the reamer is used to enlarge the hole for the tap. More grease catches most of the shavings.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

10Ream.JPG
1975 hits | 67 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
I didn't want to overload the grease, so I stopped halfway & cleaned it out.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

11Ream.JPG
2121 hits | 72.02 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The 3rd run of the reamer makes sure the tapered shoulder is cut correctly, so I cleaned the reamer again, per the instructions. I used the air ratchet again for all 3 passes.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

12Ream.JPG
1812 hits | 77.11 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
A lot of metal gets removed for the BigSerts, which have a thicker wall than the normal TimeSerts.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

13Tap.JPG
1781 hits | 69.5 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The tap also has a pilot tip, and the instructions recommend grease again. I used a manual ratchet to drive the tap, but the air ratchet to remove it.

This is the time to vacuum out the cylinder to remove any shavings & grease. I used a ShopVac...
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

14BigSert.JPG
2019 hits | 51.45 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The insert is threaded onto the installation tip, which slips into the driver, retained by its O-ring. The locking screw prevents the insert from screwing down onto the tip.

All BigSerts require red thread locker be applied before installation.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

15Release.JPG
2147 hits | 65.23 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
Once the insert is torqued properly, the screw must be loosened to release the tip from the insert.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

16Inserted.JPG
2009 hits | 51.16 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The final step is to expand the insert with the last tool, which must be oiled. This sets the insert permanently into place & prepares the threads for the spark plug.

This photo came out better than I expected. The 1st cut is visible around the...
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

17Done.JPG
4388 hits | 59.76 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
The old coil probably still works fine, but I decided to replace it anyway. Same for the spark plug, if I had regapped it, but the boot was chewed up.
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

18Done.JPG
4028 hits | 91.03 KB | Posted: 11/21/06
Once I get the other 7 done, I'll replace the alternator connector.


UPDATE: Turns out I won't be blowing any more plugs out of this engine - I totalled the car. But the TimeSert kit turned out to be pretty lucrative. I rented it out to local mech...
(Posted in: Spark Plug)

DarkMode.JPG
6789 hits | 75.21 KB | Posted: 11/12/06
These diagrams are for 1999, but the information is generally applicable to '95-up.

Dark Mode (no dome lights or chime for any open door) can be enabled by connecting the factory connectors C200M & C200F (light blue under the glove box) and then ...
(Posted in: Tech Diagrams)

HLSwBulbs.jpg
1346 hits | 39.72 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
After reading 2vModular's article, I bought these as possible replacements for the stock bulbs.

http://www.p71interceptor.com/autolamps
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw01.JPG
1346 hits | 50.66 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
The original incandescent bulbs are known to burn out quickly because they're on constantly, but not even Ford offers replacements. Only the complete switch is available.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw02.JPG
1384 hits | 47.33 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Even though it's expensive from RS, this blue LED is a better replacement because it will last indefinitely. The only drawback is that it requires a resistor to be added, and it must be installed with correct polarity to work.

http://led.linear1....
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw03.JPG
1459 hits | 54.48 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
To begin, unwrap the factory bulb's wires from the base.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw04.JPG
1125 hits | 34.24 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Straighten them out so the bulb can be removed from the plastic holder.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw05.JPG
1317 hits | 33.79 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
It was easier for me to remove the "bulb condom" with the bulb out of the holder because this one had been baked onto the bulb. But if it wasn't, it would have been easier to remove the blue filter with the bulb still in the holder.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw06.JPG
1187 hits | 35.93 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
These RS bulbs are noticeably larger than the stock ones, so even if it wasn't destroyed, the filter probably wouldn't fit over the new bulb easily.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw07.JPG
1257 hits | 22.56 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
The 5mm LED is larger, also, but it doesn't need the filter, and the lip can be shaved off.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw08.JPG
1196 hits | 32.23 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
With the lip still on the LED, the assembly is probably too long for the switch, and the leads aren't long enough.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw09.JPG
1756 hits | 33.04 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Since there's glue & heat-shrink tubing on the base of this bulb, it doesn't fit into the holder correctly, either. But its leads are slightly longer.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw10.JPG
1221 hits | 32.82 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
The bulb condom only fits because it's torn up, and the stranded leads would have to be stripped & tinned to wrap around the plastic base.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw11.JPG
1508 hits | 35.38 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
Instead of using the 12V incandescent bulb, I decided to use the 3.7V LED, and a 560Ohm resistor. I removed the LED's lip & the holder's recessed end so the assembly would be about as long as stock. Then I notched the side of the holder so the resi...
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw12.JPG
1301 hits | 32 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
I cut the LED's short (positive) lead & soldered it to the resistor, & soldered the cut end onto the long (negative) lead so I could wrap it around the base, too.
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)

HLSw13.JPG
1245 hits | 44.91 KB | Posted: 11/26/06
After getting the polarity right, it works! I could have soldered the LED & resistor directly to the board, but I like the stock look (even on something that'll never be seen).
(Posted in: Headlight Switch Bulbs)