Ramps make short work of this chore.
Locked the 4X4 on, and drove right up.
Make sure you set your parking brake, once the vehicle is on the ramps.

You'll need a 15mm box end, and a good drain pan.

Yes, it is in fact a metric bolt.
I have seen where some folks have suggested using a 9/16" wrench, but in this case on a 2003 model, it's most definitely a 15mm.

I always use latex gloves when working with oil.
Not only does it keep your hands clean, but that oil can be HOT!

This leads in to the next pic.
It's a 1" long bolt for the oil pan plug.
I use a little inward pressure to keep the oil from leaking out while turning the bolt.
Watch out once it reaches the end of threads.

Here's a hint.
Put the drain pan relatively far back to start with.
(lesson learned)
That oil will shoot out pretty far once the plug is free.
After it's drained for a minute, center the pan under the engine.

Very tight fit to get at the filter.
View is looking up, just behind the radiator.
I used a "clamp" type oil filter wrench.
A better alternative would be the type that fits over the filter, and you use a 3/8" drive ratchet to free it up.
See last picture in this series for example.

View of oil filter mounting area.
Clean it up well, before installing the new filter.
Also, oil will have dripped on the exhaust.
Make sure that's cleaned up before you start the engine.

Comparison of the original Motorcraft filter, and the new Wix #51372.
I've used Wix filters exclusively now for several years with very good results.
Make sure you "wet" the rubber gasket with fresh oil before installing.
A few drops smeared around the gasket will do the trick.
I also pour a bit of fresh oil in the filter to pre-lube it.
About an 1" from the bottom is all that's required.
Next, crawl back underneath the vehicle, turn the filter on till the gasket "just" makes contact with the mounting surface, then tighten 3/4 turn past that.

By the way, the oil has probably finished draining by now.
Good time to put the oil drain-plug back in the pan.
Make sure the contact area is clean, so it will seal well.
Nothing more than a good tightenning by hand with the 15mm box-end is all that's needed.

Ah, the engine's now getting it's fresh Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend motor oil.
Fill with the amount of oil specified in your owner's manual.
Our's states 5.5-qt. (3.0 V6 4X4).
Make sure you also check the level on the dipstick after running it a bit, then letting it sit till all the oil drains back in the pan.
Just a little added insurance that you have the proper amount of oil in the engine.

Here's the filter wrench comparison.
As mentioned earlier, I used the "clamp" type, on bottom.
A better option would be one of the plastic round types shown above.
They have a cutout that any 3/8" drive will fit into.
Check for an update on a part number once I find the correct fit.

Epilogue:
Just did the 2nd oil change at ~9,000 miles.
Picked up a new filter wrench.
You can see it takes a 3/8" drive ratchet and a short 2" extension.
Plenty of room now to turn the filter off.
I got a "Rite Fit" part no. A252 from a local auto parts store.
Any size "C" cap wrench should work.
Dimensions are 93mm X 15 flute.