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DualAltParts.jpg | Hits: 1756 | Size: 40.49 KB | Posted on: 9/13/12 | Link to this image


Apparently, these GM 10244209 brackets aren't available now, and it's a pretty easy mod for '96-00 GM diesels. Note that the 2 short bolts are for the BRACKET; and that on engines with 1 alternator, the short bolts are already there holding the radiator hose hook to the A/C bracket, so they're not really needed in any kit. The LONG bolts are for the alternator, but they're the same as the A/C compressor bolts.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427664

The dual-alternator belt is 6 ribs 120.3" long; at O'Reilly, a Gates Micro-V AT K061203 is ~$52. Dayco 5061203, Continental 4061203

The 90x30x17mm pulley 12556504 is probably equivalent to ACDelco 38020 (Gates 38020) &/or ACDelco 36299.

Here's the kit I built:



Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but the 3rd production run is about half the previous ones.

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This suggests that the alternators are wired in simple parallel, on all terminals, but I'm not sure about the way it shows the output cables BOTH going to the LEFT battery. The single (RIGHT) alternator is actually wired to a fusible link going to the top of the starter cable (because they're assembled onto the engine before the body is lowered onto the chassis) on the RIGHT battery.



The dual-alternator belt is 6 ribs 120.3" long; at O'Reilly, a Gates Micro-V AT K061203 is ~$52.
________________________________________________________________
These units feature a high ampere output-to-weight ratio. The Delcotron CS-130 & CS-144 alternators are electrically similar to standard units, however, they do not contain a diode trio. The voltage setting of the integral regulator varies with temperature and limits system voltage by controlling rotor field current.

The regulator has four terminals; "P," "L," "I," and "S."
The "P" terminal is not used, except as a tachometer output for diesel engines.
The "L" terminal may be connected to the instrument cluster for charging indicator and voltmeter.
The "I" terminal provides a voltage feed for the heated oxygen sensor, variable throttle control relay, and electronic automatic transmission.
The "S" terminal is not used.
It uses pigtail PT1235.

The alternator is serviceable only by complete replacement only. No periodic maintenance is required. It should not be disassembled for any reason.

The Generator provides Voltage to operate the Vehicle's Electrical System and to charge its Battery. A magnetic field is created when current flows through the Rotor. This field rotates as the Rotor is driven by the engine, creating an AC Voltage in the Stator windings. The AC Voltage is converted to DC by the rectifier bridge and is supplied to the Electrical System at the Battery Terminal.

This Generator's Regulator uses digital techniques to supply the Rotor current and thereby controlling the output Voltage. The Rotor current is proportional to the width of the electrical pulses supplied to it by the Regulator. When the Ignition Switch is placed in RUN, narrow width pulses are supplied to the Rotor, creating a weak magnetic field. When the Engine is started, the Regulator senses Generator rotation by detecting AC Voltage at the Stator through an internal wire. Once the Engine is running, the Regulator varies the field current by controlling the pulse width. This regulates the Generator output Voltage for proper Battery charging and Electrical System operation.

The Digital Regulator controls the BAT Indicator lamp with a solid-state lamp driver. The Lamp Driver turns on the lamp whenever Undervoltage, Overvoltage or a stopped Generator is detected.

Voltage is available to the indicator lamp and the Generator when the Ignition Switch is in RUN," Bulb Test or "START." The 20 Amp GAUGES Fuse 4 located in the I/P Fuse Block provides voltage through the PNK (39) wire to Instrument Cluster PIN 22. When there is no current flowing, Battery Voltage is available at PIN 19 and is provided the Generator through the BRN (25) wire. Generator Connector Cavity B connects to Generator PIN L. This Voltage input provides operating power for the Regulator when the Engine is running and Generator Voltage is too high or too low, this Voltage input is grounded by contacts within the Regulator. This Switch closure allows current to flow which causes the Charge Warning indicator to light.

For Vehicles with the Diesel Engine, the Tachometer input is sensed at PIN P of the Generator. Generator Connector Cavity A connects to Generator PIN P to send the pulsing Voltage signal to PIN 6 of the Instrument Cluster through the WHT (121) wire. The Instrument Cluster converts the Voltage frequency to Engine RPM.

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WiringAlts.JPG | Hits: 8117 | Size: 89.51 KB | Posted on: 9/21/12 | Link to this image


Alternator Wiring for '97-99 6.5L GM truck engines
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.



As I suspected, the factory wires dual alternators in simple parallel. Also worth noting is that the alternators do NOT need to be "matched" - a 140A alt will work fine with a 100A.

These units feature a high ampere output-to-weight ratio. The Delcotron CS-130 & CS-144 alternators are electrically similar to standard units, however, they do not contain a diode trio. The voltage setting of the integral regulator varies with temperature and limits system voltage by controlling rotor field current.

The regulator has four terminals; "P," "L," "I," and "S."
The "P" terminal is not used, except as a tachometer output for diesel engines.
The "L" terminal may be connected to the instrument cluster for charging indicator and voltmeter.
The "I" terminal (a.k.a. F) provides a voltage feed for the heated oxygen sensor, variable throttle control relay, and electronic automatic transmission.
The "S" terminal is not used.
It uses pigtail PT1235.

The alternator is serviceable only by complete replacement only. No periodic maintenance is required. It should not be disassembled for any reason.

The Generator provides Voltage to operate the Vehicle's Electrical System and to charge its Battery. A magnetic field is created when current flows through the Rotor. This field rotates as the Rotor is driven by the engine, creating an AC Voltage in the Stator windings. The AC Voltage is converted to DC by the rectifier bridge and is supplied to the Electrical System at the Battery Terminal.

This Generator's Regulator uses digital techniques to supply the Rotor current and thereby controlling the output Voltage. The Rotor current is proportional to the width of the electrical pulses supplied to it by the Regulator. When the Ignition Switch is placed in RUN, narrow width pulses are supplied to the Rotor, creating a weak magnetic field. When the Engine is started, the Regulator senses Generator rotation by detecting AC Voltage at the Stator through an internal wire. Once the Engine is running, the Regulator varies the field current by controlling the pulse width. This regulates the Generator output Voltage for proper Battery charging and Electrical System operation.

The Digital Regulator controls the BAT Indicator lamp with a solid-state lamp driver. The Lamp Driver turns on the lamp whenever Undervoltage, Overvoltage or a stopped Generator is detected.

Voltage is available to the indicator lamp and the Generator when the Ignition Switch is in RUN," Bulb Test or "START." The 20 Amp GAUGES Fuse 4 located in the I/P Fuse Block provides voltage through the PNK (39) wire to Instrument Cluster PIN 22. When there is no current flowing, Battery Voltage is available at PIN 19 and is provided the Generator through the BRN (25) wire. Generator Connector Cavity B connects to Generator PIN L. This Voltage input provides operating power for the Regulator when the Engine is running and Generator Voltage is too high or too low, this Voltage input is grounded by contacts within the Regulator. This Switch closure allows current to flow which causes the Charge Warning indicator to light.

For Vehicles with the Diesel Engine, the Tachometer input is sensed at PIN P of the Generator. Generator Connector Cavity A connects to Generator PIN P to send the pulsing Voltage signal to PIN 6 of the Instrument Cluster through the WHT (121) wire. The Instrument Cluster converts the Voltage frequency to Engine RPM.

See also:

.

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AltL1.JPG | Hits: 1706 | Size: 99.44 KB | Posted on: 9/13/12 | Link to this image


As a test, I moved my stock alternator to the optional location, and it bolts up. I just need some bracketry, an idler pulley w/spacer & bolt, a longer belt, some wiring, and another alternator.

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AltL4.JPG | Hits: 1305 | Size: 99.48 KB | Posted on: 9/13/12 | Link to this image


As a test, I moved my stock alternator to the optional location, and it bolts up. I just need some bracketry, an idler pulley w/spacer & bolt, a longer belt, some wiring, and another alternator. I don't know how critical the hose hanger is, but I'll probably make one.

***UPDATE***

After everything was installed & working, I found that the hose hook would be dangerously close to the output stud, so I decided NOT to install a metal one. I might add a plastic hanger strap later, but it doesn't seem necessary.


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AltL5.JPG | Hits: 1160 | Size: 97.98 KB | Posted on: 9/13/12 | Link to this image


I started with an Aluminum template, then made this steel bracket. The lower 2 short bolts came from the holes where the long bolts are now; they originally held the factory hose hook on the lifting eye. Note the sharp V-notch in the lifting eye bracket pointing to the compressor, where the body of the alternator will fit.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427664

Before installing ANY alternator, clean all its mounting surfaces thoroughly, and apply ELECTRICAL grease (not dielectric, or thermal, or chassis) to the mating surfaces. If the alternator case isn't fully grounded to the block (and then continuously to each battery's negative post), it can't fully charge the batteries.


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This is just the slack in the original (single-alternator) belt pulled over to represent the future routing. The magnet is pretty close to the actual idler pulley's size.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427664

The dual-alternator belt is 6 ribs 120.3" long; at O'Reilly, a Gates Micro-V AT K061203 is ~$52.

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AltL7.JPG | Hits: 1931 | Size: 95.49 KB | Posted on: 9/13/12 | Link to this image


This is just the slack in the belt pulled over to represent the future routing. The magnet is pretty close to the actual idler pulley's size.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427664

The dual-alternator belt is 6 ribs 120.3" long; at O'Reilly, a Gates Micro-V AT K061203 is ~$52.

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AltL8.JPG | Hits: 3600 | Size: 94.47 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


Before installing ANY alternator, clean all its mounting surfaces thoroughly, and apply ELECTRICAL grease (not dielectric, or thermal, or chassis). If the alternator case isn't fully grounded to the block (and then continuously to each battery's negative post), it can't fully charge the batteries.



Similarly, the block ground cables & battery terminals must be clean & tight. Peel the insulation back from the battery terminals to clean all the corrosion out & polish the mating surfaces, and install studs & nuts instead of factory-style bolts for superior clamping force.

.

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AltL9.JPG | Hits: 1180 | Size: 102.72 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


Like the alternator mounting points, all the heavy terminals should be cleaned & coated with electrical grease. I found this junkyard cable, cut its orange fusible link at the battery terminal, and then crimped & soldered a new ring onto it for the battery end. With these new batteries, I also converted to stainless studs & nuts, so it will be easy to attach this cable. Another option would be an aftermarket bolt with an extra bolt or stud for extras, like this alternator. Here's a clickable example, but I don't sell or endorse any:



The voltage regulator pigtail (center; PT1235) must be spliced into the original alternator's Brown wire, and I highly recommend a pierce splice as shown in this image:



The worst way to splice it would be a ScotchLok, because it would compromise BOTH alternators.

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AltL10.JPG | Hits: 918 | Size: 99.52 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


After buying the correct belt (6 ribs, 120.3" long, Gates Micro-V AT K061203 ~$52 at O'Reilly), I was able to locate the idler pulley, drill its hole, and space it out from the thin prototype bracket properly. Since this idler pulley w/spacer & bolt was from the JY, I cleaned all the accumulated grime out of the backside so it would vibrate less. I also placed it intentionally close to the edge so it overhangs, making future cleanings easier without removal.

Turns out this pulley has a 10mm bolt - the bolts I'm finding now are 12mm, so I'm redrilling & tapping the brackets to match the particular bolt that I ship with that bracket.

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Idler.JPG | Hits: 1485 | Size: 53.53 KB | Posted on: 9/28/12 | Link to this image


This is the pulley I designed around, and it's fairly common. I've also seen it on '92 & '93 gas trucks, and others. The original-size 90x30x17mm pulley 12556504 is probably equivalent to ACDelco 38020 (Gates 38020) &/or ACDelco 36299. This one (smaller than the original dual-alt idler, but the same as the original single-alt idler) might be Dayco 38007 or 38006. The spacer is not used for tensioners, but it's required for idlers and for this mod. Some bolts are 10mmx1.5 with a 13mm head, but others are 12mmx1.75 with a 15mm head & a matching spacer.

Turns out this bolt is actually 12mm. An earlier one I checked was 10mm, and I didn't realize this one was different when I added that text.

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AltL11.JPG | Hits: 960 | Size: 98.45 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


This is the steel prototype bracket fully installed & working, with the engine idling.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427664

The 2 bolts for the original hose hook fit under the compressor pulley, but they have 15mm heads. So I dug through my bolt bucket & found a pair with 13mm heads to match the alternator bolts. The new alternator bolts came from the JY, so they're identical to the original alternator bolts (and the compressor bolts). The bolt in the back of the alternator (where the hose hook goes) originally had a 10mm head, but I found one with a 13mm head for that location, too. Since the output stud uses a 13mm nut, everything matches.

The voltage regulator pigtail (GM PT1235) must be spliced into the original alternator's Brown wire, and I highly recommend a pierce splice as shown in this image:



The worst way to splice it would be a ScotchLok, because it would compromise BOTH alternators.

The MagneFine filter on the fan shroud is for the PSF (hydroboost).

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AltL12.JPG | Hits: 1127 | Size: 94.88 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


This is the steel prototype bracket fully installed & working, with the engine idling.

The 2 bolts for the original hose hook fit under the compressor pulley, but they have 15mm heads. So I dug through my bolt bucket & found a pair with 13mm heads to match the alternator bolts. The new alternator bolts came from the JY, so they're identical to the original alternator bolts (and the compressor bolts). The bolt in the back of the alternator (where the hose hook goes) originally had a 10mm head, but I found one with a 13mm head for that location, too. Since the output stud uses a 13mm nut, everything matches.

The voltage regulator pigtail (GM PT1235) must be spliced into the original alternator's Brown wire, and I highly recommend a pierce splice as shown in this image:



The worst way to splice it would be a ScotchLok, because it would compromise BOTH alternators.

The MagneFine filter on the fan shroud is for the PSF (hydroboost).

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AltL13.JPG | Hits: 861 | Size: 63.83 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


This is fully installed & working, with the engine idling. Considering how the previous belt appeared to have stretched, I intentionally set my idler pulley so the tensioner is close to its "new belt" limit (the yellow range). Whether this one stretches or not, it fits & works. But if it does stretch, it has a long way to go (the green range) before the tensioner bottoms out (the red end).

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AltL14.JPG | Hits: 896 | Size: 90.02 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


This is fully installed & working, with the engine idling. Considering how the previous belt appeared to have stretched, I intentionally set my idler pulley so the tensioner is close to its "new belt" limit. Whether this one stretches or not, it fits & works. But if it does stretch, it has a long way to go before the tensioner bottoms out.

After hole-sawing through that tab, I discovered it's hollow, and is part of the reservoir cavity. That's why I had to glue the patch around the hole to seal the edge. But it still makes more sense than having the tensioner gauge covered.

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AltL15.JPG | Hits: 1069 | Size: 90.94 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


To test the junkyard alternator, I installed it in the stock location with the old belt for the drive to buy the new belt. At the moment, it's putting out 20.9A @ 14.3V. I didn't load it to see what its max is.


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AltL16.JPG | Hits: 1369 | Size: 104.89 KB | Posted on: 9/15/12 | Link to this image


I put the original alternator in the new location, and it's putting out 28.5A at this moment. I didn't load it to see what its max is.



Note the sharp V-notch in the lifting eye bracket pointing to the compressor, where the body of the alternator fits.

The voltage regulator pigtail (GM PT1235) must be spliced into the original alternator's Brown wire, and I highly recommend a pierce splice as shown in this image:



The worst way to splice it would be a ScotchLok, because it would compromise BOTH alternators.

I used stainless studs & nuts to connect the new alternator charge wire to the battery, but another way would be an aftermarket bolt with an extra bolt or stud for extra circuits. Here's a clickable example, but I don't sell or endorse any:


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It almost looks like it belongs there!

Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but I've sold out of the 2nd production run, and I don't anticipate enough interest for a 3rd.

I've decided NOT to make a metal hose hook since it's too close to the output stud. I did make sure that all the bolt heads are 13mm, just to make it easier to work on later. IDK why GM couldn't have done that originally.


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AltL21.JPG | Hits: 1315 | Size: 93.57 KB | Posted on: 9/25/12 | Link to this image


The plasma-cut brackets fit, and the thicker metal puts the idler pulley in perfect line. It's not apparent due to the shadows, but the pulley overhangs the edge of the bracket (UNlike the factory version). That will make it easy to clean out the back of the pulley without removal.

.

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AltL23.JPG | Hits: 986 | Size: 84.73 KB | Posted on: 9/25/12 | Link to this image


The plasma-cut brackets fit, and the thicker metal puts the idler pulley in perfect line. The double-thickness is nearly perfect for the the alternator mounting bolt bosses.



The MagneFine filter on the fan shroud is for the PSF (hydroboost).

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AltL24.JPG | Hits: 1549 | Size: 92.73 KB | Posted on: 10/8/12 | Link to this image


A local powdercoating shop put this texture black on for me, so it's finished now. The pulley overhangs the edge of the bracket (UNlike the factory version), making it easy to clean out the back of the pulley without removal.

The MagneFine filter on the fan shroud is for the PSF (hydroboost).

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AltL25.JPG | Hits: 1115 | Size: 92.8 KB | Posted on: 10/8/12 | Link to this image


A local powdercoating shop put this texture black on for me, so it's finished now. Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but I've sold out of the 2nd production run, and I don't anticipate enough interest for a 3rd.

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DualAltKit.JPG | Hits: 5076 | Size: 100.69 KB | Posted on: 10/8/12 | Link to this image


6.5L Turbo Diesel driver-side alternator kit
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Here's the "kit":
- 1 new bracket painted black, threaded M10x1.5 &/or M12x1.75 for the included idler bolt
- 2 used original long alternator bolts
- a used original charge cable with ring ends & fusible link (various lengths, may also have split loom covering or additional unneeded wires)
- a used original voltage regulator pigtail
- 1 used original nut for the alternator charge post
- a used original bolt & spacer for the used idler pulley (not shown)
Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but I've sold out of the 2nd production run, and I don't anticipate enough interest for a 3rd.

The voltage regulator pigtail (GM PT1235) must be spliced into the original alternator's Brown wire, and I highly recommend a pierce splice as shown in this image:



The worst way to splice it would be a ScotchLok, because it would compromise BOTH alternators.

Also required:
- a CS130 (or equivalent) alternator (any output)
- a different battery bolt to accept the ring terminal on the fusible link wire

- a longer belt to match the idler pulley (if the recommended pulley is used in the provided threaded hole, the stock dual alternator belt K061203 will fit)
- an idler pulley w/spacer & bolt


The 2 bolts from the factory hose hook will be transferred to the new bracket.



I DON'T KNOW what other years, engines, & alternators this might fit, so study the other photos in this album to determine if it will fit yours.

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DualAltKit4s.JPG | Hits: 1511 | Size: 78.45 KB | Posted on: 10/25/12 | Link to this image


6.5L Turbo Diesel driver-side alternator kit
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Here's the "kit":
- 1 new bracket powdercoated black threaded M12x1.75 for the included idler bolt
- 2 used original long alternator bolts
- a used original charge cable with ring ends & fusible link (various lengths, may also have split loom covering or additional unneeded wires)
- a used original voltage regulator pigtail
- 1 used original nut for the alternator charge post
- a used original bolt, spacer, & idler pulley
- a new piece of plastic hanger strap long enough to wrap around the radiator hose & a used bolt to attach it to the back of the alternator shown in this album
Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but I've sold out of the 2nd production run, and I don't anticipate enough interest for a 3rd.

The voltage regulator pigtail (GM PT1235) must be spliced into the original alternator's Brown wire, and I highly recommend a pierce splice as shown in this image:



The worst way to splice it would be a ScotchLok, because it would compromise BOTH alternators.

Also required:
- a CS130 (or equivalent) alternator (any output)
- a different battery bolt to accept the ring terminal on the fusible link wire

- a longer belt to match the idler pulley (if the recommended pulley is used in the provided threaded hole, the stock dual alternator belt K061203 will fit)
- a new idler pulley (recommended)


The 2 bolts from the factory hose hook will be transferred to the new bracket.



I DON'T KNOW what other years, engines, & alternators this might fit, so study the other photos in this album to determine if it will fit yours. I only know for sure about a '97 6.5L.

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IdlerBoth.JPG | Hits: 969 | Size: 87.58 KB | Posted on: 11/19/12 | Link to this image


This should be the final revision of the design: the last 2 brackets have been drilled & tapped so either size of pulley bolt can be used, but I probably won't do that again. The pulley & belt are the same for either hole.

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AltL26Strap.JPG | Hits: 1056 | Size: 99.74 KB | Posted on: 12/22/12 | Link to this image


I had this plastic plumber's strap from an unrelated project, so I used a little here instead of making a factory-style metal hook that might short to the alternator's output stud. The blue bolt is just something I found in the JY with the right thread & a 13mm head.

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Bracket Accessories that I collected in May 2013 for the 2nd batch
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Those in green are part of the bracket kit; the ones described as "free" are included IF I HAVE THEM. When I run out and can't find more, I'll ship kits without those parts. But they aren't necessary - you should buy a new pulley anyway, and your alternator will probably have an output nut.

Note that there are several styles of pulley, but they're interchangeable. If you want a particular output wire, let me know. I can't guarantee that I'll still have the one you want, but I'll try to send something close.

Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but I've sold out of the 2nd production run, and I don't anticipate enough interest for a 3rd.

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DualAlts1.JPG | Hits: 1350 | Size: 66.89 KB | Posted on: 5/21/13 | Link to this image


6.5L Turbo Diesel driver-side alternator kit

The 2nd batch of ~13 is GONE. I damaged my 10mm tap on the last set, so all of the boxed ones have the larger 12mm pulley bolt (15mm head). When I pick up a replacement 10mm tap, I'll put together the rest with 10mm (13mm head) bolts.

Read all the other captions in this photo album AND this thread, but I've sold out of the 2nd production run (in 2015), and I don't anticipate enough interest for a 3rd.

UPDATE: I've made another small batch in Mar.2022 but I don't have enough used parts yet to offer complete kits. So I'm selling some brackets with only the 2 long alternator bolts for people who don't mind sourcing the rest of the parts themselves.

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20220319_135214.jpg | Hits: 274 | Size: 112.78 KB | Posted on: 3/25/22 | Link to this image


Not many used parts left in the bucket, but I have 6 new brackets (3rd run ALL SOLD NOW) that are painted and threaded M10-1.5. The 2nd pulley hole can be drilled & tapped for another size.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.


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