I plan to do the popular All-On high-beam mod, and these are the 4 common ways to do it. My truck doesn't have factory fog lights.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
1) Simple Shunt: The easiest way is to splice in a jumper wire (shunt) between the headlight switch output wire & the low beams. This method won't interfere with DRL or cause any battery drain because the h/l switch still turns the lights off, as usual. But it does put nearly double the current load on the headlight switch contacts, which might burn them up. Some people report no problems using this configuration for a decade. The optional switch will return the system to stock function, and an illuminated switch can be used to indicate the new function.
2) Simple Diode: This is similar to the shunt, but has some DISadvantages. It puts the extra current load on BOTH the headlight switch contacts AND the dimmer switch contacts, increasing the likelihood that one of them will fail. It also reduces voltage to the low beams (only during ALL-ON operation) by 1-2V, making them slighly dimmer than any other configuration. This voltage drop occurs across the diode itself, meaning it will put off substantial heat (more than some taillight bulbs), but the diode can be placed in the grille. Also, it requires a VERY heavy-duty diode; not a common 1/4A as might be found at electronics supply stores, but more like one in an alternator. The optional switch will return the system to stock function, and an illuminated switch can be used to indicate the new function.
3) Safe Relay: This is the preferred configuration since it protects all stock components from any abnormal load. The relay can be placed indoors or out, and the fuse can be added to either stock fuse block. The optional switch will return the system to stock function, and an illuminated switch can be used to indicate the new function. The switch would be equally effective on the hot side of the relay coil, between the relay & the splice to the LTGRN wire.
4) Foggin'-A: Trucks with factory fog lights can use the fog light relay as the optional switch to enable the ALL-ON function. In addition to the splicing required in the other configurations, this one also requires modifying the fog light relay ground circuit. Everything will work as normal, unless BOTH the high-beams AND fog lights are on. Hi with fog is illegal in many jurisdictions, so simply turn off fog when using hi.
There are other acceptable configurations that are effectively slight variations of these, but anything substantially different isn't advisable.
To add fuses in the stock boxes, read this caption & the NEXT few:
![headlightsall.jpg I plan to do the popular All-On high-beam mod, and these are the 4 common ways to do it. My truck doesn't have factory fog lights.
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.
1) Simple Shunt: The easiest way is to splice in a jumper wire (shunt) between the headlight switch output wire & the low beams. This method won't interfere with DRL or cause any battery drain because the h/l switch still turns the lights off, as usual. But it does put nearly double the current load on the headlight switch contacts, which might burn them up. Some people report no problems using this configuration for a decade. The optional switch will return the system to stock function, and an illuminated switch can be used to indicate the new function.
2) Simple Diode: This is similar to the shunt, but has some DISadvantages. It puts the extra current load on BOTH the headlight switch contacts AND the dimmer switch contacts, increasing the likelihood that one of them will fail. It also reduces voltage to the low beams (only during ALL-ON operation) by 1-2V, making them slighly dimmer than any other configuration. This voltage drop occurs across the diode itself, meaning it will put off substantial heat (more than some taillight bulbs), but the diode can be placed in the grille. Also, it requires a VERY heavy-duty diode; not a common 1/4A as might be found at electronics supply stores, but more like one in an alternator. The optional switch will return the system to stock function, and an illuminated switch can be used to indicate the new function.
3) Safe Relay: This is the preferred configuration since it protects all stock components from any abnormal load. The relay can be placed indoors or out, and the fuse can be added to either stock fuse block. The optional switch will return the system to stock function, and an illuminated switch can be used to indicate the new function. The switch would be equally effective on the hot side of the relay coil, between the relay & the splice to the LTGRN wire.
4) Foggin'-A: Trucks with factory fog lights can use the fog light relay as the optional switch to enable the ALL-ON function. In addition to the splicing required in the other configurations, this one also requires modifying the fog light relay ground circuit. Everything will work as normal, unless BOTH the high-beams AND fog lights are on. Hi with fog is illegal in many jurisdictions, so simply turn off fog when using hi.
There are other acceptable configurations that are effectively slight variations of these, but anything substantially different isn't advisable.
To add fuses in the stock boxes, read this caption & the NEXT few:
[url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/886237][img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/886237/thumbnail/usb1.jpg[/img][/url]](https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/894366/fullsize/headlightsall.jpg)