3-screw Warn Automatic Hub Locks (
F6TZ-1K105-AA)
The 2 items at the far L are one complete hub lock assembly piled together. The top center is the hub lock body. Bottom center is the cap with 3 screw holes. Top R are the friction ring & large (outer) C-ring (which retains the lock body in the hub). Lower R (upper row) are: the 2.5-inch single wheel bearing adjusting hex-nut; the adjusting nut lock clip; the steel splined thrust washer; (lower row) the small (inner) C-ring (which retains the axle stub shaft in the spindle); the plastic thrust washer; and the steel thrust washer. Refer to this:
There should never be a need to disassemble the hub lock body any more than this, unless it has been severely neglected or abused. DO NOT pack the lock with grease - a light coat is enough; any more will jam the mechanism. The correct way to clean & lube an auto hub lock is to dunk it in ATF each time the wheel bearings are serviced (which should be FREQUENTLY if the truck is used off-road; or every 30Kmi if it's not).
See the NEXT pic, and:
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Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.
There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.
![hubautolocks.jpg 3-screw Warn Automatic Hub Locks ([url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M68EU6]F6TZ-1K105-AA[/url])
The 2 items at the far L are one complete hub lock assembly piled together. The top center is the hub lock body. Bottom center is the cap with 3 screw holes. Top R are the friction ring & large (outer) C-ring (which retains the lock body in the hub). Lower R (upper row) are: the 2.5-inch single wheel bearing adjusting hex-nut; the adjusting nut lock clip; the steel splined thrust washer; (lower row) the small (inner) C-ring (which retains the axle stub shaft in the spindle); the plastic thrust washer; and the steel thrust washer. Refer to this:
[url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/277564][img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/277564/thumbnail/hublockauto95up.jpg[/img][/url]
There should never be a need to disassemble the hub lock body any more than this, unless it has been severely neglected or abused. DO NOT pack the lock with grease - a light coat is enough; any more will jam the mechanism. The correct way to clean & lube an auto hub lock is to dunk it in ATF each time the wheel bearings are serviced (which should be FREQUENTLY if the truck is used off-road; or every 30Kmi if it's not).
See the NEXT pic, and:
[url=http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/470473][img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470473/thumbnail/tsb970628motoringtorque.jpg[/img][/url]
-----------------------------------------------------------
Today's free-running hubs are very simple to operate and feature seals that prevent the entry of dirt and moisture. Automatic locking hubs are used in many applications. They use the front axle shaft rotation to actuate a cam that locks and unlocks the hub.
There are two types of front hubs currently in use on Ford Trucks:
^ Manual (or free-running) that require the driver to get out of the cab to either lock or unlock them.
^ Automatic locking (they lock automatically when the axle shaft begins to turn).
The vehicle operator doesn't have to wait until the last minute (or when stuck) to lock the hubs. It makes sense to plan ahead and lock them at a convenient time. The hubs can be left in the locked position all the time if desired. For example, if the vehicle is constantly going from the highway to off the road conditions and back, it's not necessary to lock or unlock every time. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual shift transfer case and manual locking hubs, low range can be selected when the vehicle's front hubs are unlocked. This is useful for short distances if very low, creeper gearing (but not 4WD) is needed. For example, backing an empty boat trailer down a launching ramp is best accomplished in 2WD. Once the boat is loaded, 4L (low) can be selected to help pull the boat up the ramp. The hubs don't have to be locked for this purpose, and being in 2WD will prevent driveline windup while maneuvering in the boat ramp parking lot.](https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/72050/fullsize/hubautolocks.jpg)