FordExcursions.com Forums
excursion_man
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• Dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 8/2/2002 |
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• 53 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:7/1/2003 14:20 |
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Has anyone done this? Do you just punch the pins out from the bottom?
Thanks
Bill
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RS-TX
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• Little River, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/22/2002 |
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• 298 posts |
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Posted:7/5/2003 13:15 |
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You probably already know this, but they can open 180 degrees and provide almost unobstructed access to the back.
Just to feed my curiosity, why do you want to remove them?
Rick
2004 VW Jetta TDI |
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excursion_man
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• Dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 8/2/2002 |
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• 53 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:7/7/2003 14:28 |
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I may be building fiberglass sub enclosures for the doors and it would be much easier if they out of the car. |
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RS-TX
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• Little River, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/22/2002 |
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• 298 posts |
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Posted:7/8/2003 09:11 |
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That makes sense. I haven't looked close, but they are probably not difficult to remove. They don't have wires or anything running to them. Good luck.
Rick
2004 VW Jetta TDI |
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E. Long
 
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:7/8/2003 16:08 |
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| Quote: | | I may be building fiberglass sub enclosures for the doors and it would be much easier if they out of the car. |
Have you done fiberglass work before? Just curious...I also need to have new sub enclosures made as well and am curious as to what you're going to be fitting in your rear cargo doors.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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excursion_man
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• Dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 8/2/2002 |
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• 53 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:7/18/2003 10:05 |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | | I may be building fiberglass sub enclosures for the doors and it would be much easier if they out of the car. |
Have you done fiberglass work before? Just curious...I also need to have new sub enclosures made as well and am curious as to what you're going to be fitting in your rear cargo doors. |
Yes I have done fiberglass work before and this would be very simple. I would simply cut away a portion of the door to give me a bigger internal area to work with. Tape up the inside of the door up to the top of my larger hole. Hand lay several layers fiberglass in whole. Remove mold of inside the door and attach a wood baffle board to the inner door mold. The wood baffle would be about the size of the carpeted portion of the current door. Dremel out the carpeted portion on trim panel. Carpet my baffle board...Mount baffle board to the door and place modified trim ring around baffle. That is the plan but I might have to make a new trim ring. I am trying to leave a stock appearance. I want to only put one ten in each door to avoid door sag.
My only worry is they may sound like crap firing forward.
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gearman
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• los Angeles, CA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/22/2003 |
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• 336 posts |
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Posted:7/18/2003 15:27 |
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i seem to recall that someone on this board had special mod on his cargo doors, even had it in his signature. about six months ago i think
01 excursion psd hellwig rear stabalizer 285 michelins suncoast converter transmission custom built with Transgo shift kit,by me.
TTS computer chip,next mod-TTS exhaust system
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E. Long
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:7/18/2003 16:26 |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | | Quote: | | I may be building fiberglass sub enclosures for the doors and it would be much easier if they out of the car. |
Have you done fiberglass work before? Just curious...I also need to have new sub enclosures made as well and am curious as to what you're going to be fitting in your rear cargo doors. |
Yes I have done fiberglass work before and this would be very simple. I would simply cut away a portion of the door to give me a bigger internal area to work with. Tape up the inside of the door up to the top of my larger hole. Hand lay several layers fiberglass in whole. Remove mold of inside the door and attach a wood baffle board to the inner door mold. The wood baffle would be about the size of the carpeted portion of the current door. Dremel out the carpeted portion on trim panel. Carpet my baffle board...Mount baffle board to the door and place modified trim ring around baffle. That is the plan but I might have to make a new trim ring. I am trying to leave a stock appearance. I want to only put one ten in each door to avoid door sag.
My only worry is they may sound like crap firing forward.
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I have my subs mounted in my rear cargo doors. I made the mistake of having Circuit City install them and their idea for boxes in each door was to dynomat the crap out of the inside of each door, fill it with the cotton filler, seal up the front panels of the doors, mount the subs by cutting a hole in the panels, and call it a box. Initially, before the panel started fatiguing causing the subs to come lose, it sounded nice. Now it's really sloppy sounding because the "boxes" aren't really sealed at all anymore.
A proper box would sound even better and as long as you have your 3rd most seat in the upright position, the bass bounces off nicely. When I've got all of my seats folded down and there's a direct path from the sub to my ear, it doesn't sound as good.
I have a 10" sub in each door -- it hasn't fatigued the hinges at all.
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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