spartan
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• Nashville, TN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/17/2003 |
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• 86 posts |
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 Posted:10/28/2003 09:41 |
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They told me no problem on the 315's as well. You will probably have to shim your bumper or trim it on the Excursion. I have the same back spacing on my wheels and dual shocks. I predict they will rub, but I hope not. Let us know.
If yours don't rub I may try 315's on 8 inch wheels. I still can't see how that would make any difference. BFG 315's and 35's are the same diameter at 34.7 inches. Also - two thirds of my tread is gone after 41,000 miles.
Two days was about six hours each day, floor jacks and jack stands only, 95 degrees, 80 percent humidity. in the sun, by myself. A complete front spring install is a real pain when you are working single. Lucky you - yours won't have to come completely off the axle. Also, look out for the front bolt on the the passenger side rear spring. Be careful not to damage your rear AC line. I about stroked out on that one.
2000 XLT Premium, V10, 4.3 LSD Rear, Edge 4.5" Hanger Lift, Landyot Radius Rods, Hellwig Sway Bar, Dual Bilsteins, 295 75 16 Nitto AT's, Billet Grill, Lengthened and Balanced Driveshaft, Hella 450's, Insulated AC Lines, Modified ZooDad, Husky Liners F to B.
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Stephanie Motzer
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• Anthem , AZ, USA |
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• Registered on 4/3/2003 |
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• 27 posts |
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Posted:10/29/2003 12:40 |
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I recently installed the 4.5" edge lift and I went with the new Mickey Thompson Classic Lock rims 16X8 and BF Goodrich A/T with the size 315 75 R16's. I am having trouble getting the tires properly balanced on these rims. I have taken it back 3 times to were I bought the tires and today I just took it to another place with no luck. I am going to try to return the rims and go with something that can be properly balanced. Unfortunatly the rims look sharp but what good are they if they cannot be balanced. Is anyone else running the new Mickey Thompson Classic Locks? |
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spartan
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• Nashville, TN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/17/2003 |
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• 86 posts |
• 1
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Posted:10/29/2003 13:02 |
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Question A: Irrelevant of the balance - do the tires rub on the bumper?
Question B: It may not be the tires or the wheels. Did you correct your rear dirveshaft angles? Put you original tires and wheels back on and take a spin. If it still vibrates it's your rear driveshaft - not the tires and wheels. I'm gonna guess that's it.
Good luck.
2000 XLT Premium, V10, 4.3 LSD Rear, Edge 4.5" Hanger Lift, Landyot Radius Rods, Hellwig Sway Bar, Dual Bilsteins, 295 75 16 Nitto AT's, Billet Grill, Lengthened and Balanced Driveshaft, Hella 450's, Insulated AC Lines, Modified ZooDad, Husky Liners F to B.
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Stephanie Motzer
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• Anthem , AZ, USA |
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• Registered on 4/3/2003 |
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• 27 posts |
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Posted:10/29/2003 17:22 |
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The tires clear the bumper no problem and then some. However I did away with the bar and plactic peice that mounts below the bumper and I notice most pictures I have seen on the web retained that piece. I wish I knew how to post the digital pictures so you could see it. If anyone is interested I can email them to you. There is a slight rub on the springs when the wheel is fully turned but I will have someone put a small weld on the steering stops to prevent it. Hey Sparten what did you mean about the drive shaft being positioned right. The lift didn't require it to be disconnected so any suggestions are appreciated. I really think my problems lies in the tire balancing. I know it tough to balance 35's but I have noticed a difference each time they worked on them. Unfortunatly at this point the best it ever felt was before the last time I took it back. Persistancy will pay off I hope cause I am taking it back Friday morning.
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Randy McElroy
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• St. Peters, MO, USA |
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• Registered on 10/23/2003 |
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• 12 posts |
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Posted:10/29/2003 20:34 |
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| Quote: | | I wish I knew how to post the digital pictures so you could see it. If anyone is interested I can email them to you. |
I'm interested in the pics - [email protected]
[/quote] There is a slight rub on the springs when the wheel is fully turned but I will have someone put a small weld on the steering stops to prevent it. [/quote]
Slight rub...why not just not turn the wheel so hard?
[/quote] Hey Sparten what did you mean about the drive shaft being positioned right. The lift didn't require it to be disconnected so any suggestions are appreciated. [/quote]
I'm wondering about this myself. Don't the replacement 5" blocks angle the drive shaft properly?
[/quote] Unfortunatly at this point the best it ever felt was before the last time I took it back. Persistancy will pay off I hope cause I am taking it back Friday morning. [/quote]
Ain't life a bitch sometimes! How many times I have reworked something, and although things change for the better, it always ends up back where I started!
Well, I'm getting anxious.  Part of the kit came in today. The pitman arm, front box and shocks are not here yet. I got an email from NT&W that the wheels and tires have shipped. I hope they come in before Saturday.
And while I have center stage here, let it be known as written here for the whole world to see, that this lift kit is going on the CEO's X. It was solely her decision and I had nothing to do with it. Although I did not discourage that decision...no body seems to believe me.
Craig - Truck & Excursion Pictures
here is my first attempt to get a link to my truck pics. I will help you with posting pics as soon as I figure it out myself. 
Randy |
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Hitch
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• Traverse City, MI, USA |
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• Registered on 9/20/2002 |
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• 22 posts |
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Posted:10/30/2003 09:10 |
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Randy,
I am really interested in seeing pics of your wife's X after the lift. My wife has the same color X and wants a lift too (in a year or 2). We will probably go with the Edge 4.5" also. Post some pictures when you are done, please  .
Thanks
2002 Limited Ultimate PSD X, DVD w/3 monitors, Donahoe Racing 4.5" lift, 315 MT/R's, 16x10 Weld Velociti's, Husky Liners front to back, PSD Badges, Hellwig, SCMT, AFE Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust, Autometer gauges in under cubby pod.
http://community.webshots.com/user/hitch42 |
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spartan
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• Nashville, TN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/17/2003 |
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• 86 posts |
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Posted:10/30/2003 09:16 |
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No - the five inch blocks did not set the rear differential / u-joint at the proper operating angle in relationship to the front output from the transfer case. I had to order and install a 3 degree steel shim and bolt it onto the bottom of the spring pack to match the rear operating angle to the front at 6.5 degrees. My driveshaft angle is 10 degrees so front and rear u-joint operating angles are 3.5 percent - just within the limit of 4 percent for a high speed drive shaft.
Also the lift pulled enough spline contact that the driveshaft had to be lengthened and rebalanced. Make sure to put it back " in phase " when you reinstall it. The driveshaft shop will mark it. If that doesn't work then you will have to lower the rear of the truck or get a double carden driveshaft.
This is where the thing about four inch lifts really kicks in. Two and three inch lifts generally don't cause driveshaft problems - anything over that and you can pretty much count on driveshaft issues as described or even having to buy and install a double carden shaft and adjusting your rear differential to 0 degrees for it to work.
All the lift people will swear your truck is the only one that they ever had a problem with. Most people with big lifts and monster tires can't go fast enough to really notice high speed vibration from bad shaft angles.
2000 XLT Premium, V10, 4.3 LSD Rear, Edge 4.5" Hanger Lift, Landyot Radius Rods, Hellwig Sway Bar, Dual Bilsteins, 295 75 16 Nitto AT's, Billet Grill, Lengthened and Balanced Driveshaft, Hella 450's, Insulated AC Lines, Modified ZooDad, Husky Liners F to B.
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Stephanie Motzer
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• Anthem , AZ, USA |
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• Registered on 4/3/2003 |
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• 27 posts |
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Posted:10/31/2003 13:22 |
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Hey Randy I did send you a few pictures. As far as the rubbing on the springs I just don't turn the wheel all the way but I would like to put the weld beads on for when the Mrs. drives it. What wheels and tires did you order? I am getting a new set of tires as a few places now have determined that mine are rounded or egg-shapped. They also mentioned that they have had many issues with the BF Goodrich coming this way. If I get to choose a different tire I am going to go with the Nitto Grappler A/T but we will have to wait and see. As far as the differential I'm not sure if it is an issue on mine or not. It seems that the Excursions all sit a bit different. For example the double shock mounts. I have heard many say that they didn't have to do any cutting for the shocks to fit. I had to cut on both sides not that it is a big deal. I just think that each truck presents a slightly different situation. After the tire issues are resolved I will find out if the driveshaft is an issue on my truck or not. It does make sense though even though Donahue racing claims otherwise. Hey Randy are you going with the dual shock mounts? If not I suggest it especially if you are running the V10 or Powerstroke. They look real sharp as well. Oh and one other note. I was expecting the lift parts to be blue and was stoked to find that they were black. Yeah baby!! |
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Randy McElroy
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• St. Peters, MO, USA |
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• Registered on 10/23/2003 |
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• 12 posts |
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Posted:10/31/2003 22:07 |
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| Quote: | Hey Randy I did send you a few pictures. As far as the rubbing on the springs I just don't turn the wheel all the way but I would like to put the weld beads on for when the Mrs. drives it. What wheels and tires did you order?
Hey Randy are you going with the dual shock mounts? If not I suggest it especially if you are running the V10 or Powerstroke. They look real sharp as well. Oh and one other note. I was expecting the lift parts to be blue and was stoked to find that they were black. Yeah baby!! |
I got your pics, nice truck. Thanks. I like that red.
I got 16x8 Welds with 3-5/8" back spacing. That will move the inside of the tire away from the spring about 1". It moves the tire out a little bit farther than I really like, but it shouldn't be too bad. At least it's not too bad on my SD and it is the same set up. Although, I did install the Bushwacker OEMs on my truck to "hide" the effect of the tires hanging out.
My ProComp ATs showed up today mounted on the wheels. All I can say about them right now is they are a good looking combination. They appear wider than my ProComp MTs I have on my SD.
I didn't even think about duel shocks when I placed my order. It just never entered my mind. I wonder if that can be added using the parts I have already.
I was tickled about the black color as well. I painted the stuff that came with my Skyjacker kit on my SD. I even changed the red boots that came with it with black ones. Even those bushings are red. Every time I change my oil, I take a can of black spray paint with me to touch up the underside to keep it looking clean. Since you can see the underside, I want it to look good, but not stand out. Which brings up the Bilstien shocks I just got. They are not painted at all, just bare aluminum. I understand this is the style now. Maybe for now I will keep them that way. A friend recommended I clear coat them. You know another thing I noticed about them being painted black...they are painted well, not just dipped or painted at. Donahoe makes a very good product, no doubt. I liked that "dr" cutout in the bump spacers - That is kinda cool.
One more note about the tires. I have already washed off the blue crap they put on new tires and first thing in the morning, I am going to paint flat back over the lettering so they don't show. They are turned in, of course.
That's about it for now. Tomorrow is surgery day. Hopefully I will have pictures available by Sunday.
Randy |
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spartan
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• Nashville, TN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/17/2003 |
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• 86 posts |
• 1
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Posted:11/1/2003 13:09 |
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Interesting that alot of us all think alike. I've been painting all of my shock bodies black for years , using black boots or for the past couple of years none. I have had several shocks with broken seals that I think was caused by moisture and rust in the boots. Without the boots I can clean them off, watch for corrosion and wipe down the shafts with break free CLP on a regular basis. I also regularly wire brush and paint the rear pumpkin just to keep everything looking decent.
The Bilsteins are the first shocks I didn't paint. They just look too good the way they are and with the inverted mount I don't think moisture will be a problem. On the other hand if I see any signs of corrosion they're coming off for a paint job. I don't see that happening though if they are kept clean.
On the dual front springs - there's no way the mount and shocks would clear without cutting. I drilled holes at my marked corners and cut with a jigsaw from those and then melted down the rough edges with a torch. Just one more reason that I suggested giving yourself plenty of time to do this particular install. That alone took probably an hour to get both sides measured and matched as much as possible.
Also I spent half an hour like an idiot eyeballing the truck trying to figure out how to put the factory black valance that came off from under the front bumper back on the truck. TIP OF THE DAY - it won't go back on! Someone told me that you can put them back on newer models - 2002 and up maybe. They attach directly to the bumper or something. Once you take the older model blocker beam off, there's nothing to mount it to.
Now that I'm used to it I really like the look without the valance with the new blocker beam and spring mounts showing. It's big, it's bad, it's a smooth riding family acceptable X. Allthough I did get stuck in a small parking lot the other day - it was really embarassing.
2000 XLT Premium, V10, 4.3 LSD Rear, Edge 4.5" Hanger Lift, Landyot Radius Rods, Hellwig Sway Bar, Dual Bilsteins, 295 75 16 Nitto AT's, Billet Grill, Lengthened and Balanced Driveshaft, Hella 450's, Insulated AC Lines, Modified ZooDad, Husky Liners F to B.
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