FordExcursions.com Forums
Weatherlite
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• Mountain Home AFB, ID, USA |
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• Registered on 10/21/2002 |
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• 133 posts |
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 Posted:11/12/2003 13:21 |
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Ok, since there is no search capability yet, some new folks have been asking a lot of questions concerning vibrations, particularly in the rear end. I went and took a look at all of the old stuff and will basically put the synopsis for you here.
There have been four main culprits that folks have stated were a cure for their vibration woes.
The first-and least mentioned- are weights. I guess Ford would add some weights to the transmission cross-member and on the frame near the rear axle. This was supposed to dampen the vibes.
The second most mentioned was a non-lubed driveshaft. Our shafts are two piece units and are not plumbed for lubing. If you take the front end of the shaft off of the transfer case (or tranny if you're 2WD) you can then remove the rubber boot and front section of the shaft. You will have to remove a strap holding the boot on first....and you will need a replacement strap as well. Anyway, once the front half is removed you can pump some grease into the cavity. I've never done it but I imagine you should only add just enough to get it well lubed, othewise you may not be able to get the front half back in all of the way since there's nowhere for excess grease to go. BTW, this also cures a clunking noise many hear from the back end when they put it in gear or accelerate. One important note-make sure you mark the front and rear halves of the shaft so that you can re-install the front section exactly the same way it was before. If it gets rotated either direction by as little as one tooth it can adversely affect the balance.
The third is to get the tires rotated and balanced. Make sure nothing is lodged inside of the rims as well.
The fourth and final fix is replacing/balancing the rear driveshaft. The way to make sure it is the driveshaft is to drive it in 4WD HI with the rear shaft removed. If you have a 2WD this test will not work for you, sorry. You don't want to hammer it because that front shaft was not meant to handle that much torque. Basically, with the rear shaft removed you are eliminating one possible area for the vibration. If it continues to vibrate then a visit to the dealer is definitely warranted as it's most likely coming from the axles if you had the tires balanced. If the vibration stops then it's the rear shaft. What most have found cures the problem is either a balance or re-aligning the shaft.
To be sure which is needed you have to try re-aligning the driveshaft first. Basically, mark the shaft with a dab of paint on the very end next to where it bolts to the axle. Make a mark on the yoke of the axle directly opposite. Now, disconnect that end of the driveshaft, rotate it 180 degrees and bolt it back on. Now drive it. If the vibration went away then the factory put the shaft on wrong. If it does not go away or gets worse re-attach it the way it was originally. Next, repeat the paint dab process with the front of the driveshaft. Again, remove, rotate 180 and re-install. Test drive it. If it helps then good. If not reverse the proceedure.
If none of that helped then you should probably get professional help and have the shaft balanced or replaced. Many have had Ford replace the shafts for free because this has been such an issue.
Well, I hope I helped some of you out! Good luck! 
Mikie |
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Posted:11/12/2003 13:30 |
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| Quote: | | BTW, this also cures a clunking noise many hear from the back end when they put it in gear or accelerate. One important note-make sure you mark the front and rear halves of the shaft so that you can re-install the front section exactly the same way it was before. If it gets rotated either direction by as little as one tooth it can adversely affect the balance. |
Very interesting, thank you for the info. I have on occasion heard that clunk upon accelerating. It comes and goes. Same with my buddies F350 crew cab 7.3 diesel, his does that too.
Thanks for the info,
Has anyone had a custom driveshaft made that has lubing abilities? |
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RS-TX
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• Little River, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 11/22/2002 |
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• 298 posts |
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Posted:11/12/2003 15:43 |
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Wow, Mikie, that is cool!  Thanks for the info. That should be "stickied" to the top of the threads. 
Rick
2004 VW Jetta TDI |
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Weatherlite
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• Mountain Home AFB, ID, USA |
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• Registered on 10/21/2002 |
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• 133 posts |
• 1
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Posted:11/13/2003 13:16 |
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Jared, if I remember correctly, someone on here made their own lube adapter. They drilled a hole in the far back of the cavity and installed a zirk (spelling?) fitting for a grease gun. Of course you would have to clean it really well after this to get rid of all of the shavings.
Mikie |
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spartan
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• Nashville, TN, USA |
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• Registered on 7/17/2003 |
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• 86 posts |
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 Posted:11/15/2003 09:52 |
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I've posted this before, but thought it appropriate to add to this thread.
If you lift your truck you will get vibration, possibly severe until you do several things:
A. Match the differential flange angle to match the transfer output flange angle with steel shims - not aluminum - bolted onto the bottom of the rear spring packs. If you really want to get fancy you could cut your blocks to appropriate angle. This is necessary whether you use blocks or springs to lift the rear. Search the Ford threads for instructions on measuring angles.
B. If a shop installed your lift make sure some dip head didn't pull your spline when he dropped the rear end and stick it back in out of phase.
C. Make sure that all of your nuts and bolts - especially the u-bolts are nice and tight - they need to be retightened after several weeks of driving.
D. Make sure the driveshaft is balanced.
E. If you lift your X with a one piece drive shaft even 3" in the rear end - you will need to pull the shaft out and have it lengthened. Otherwise insufficient spline contact. Don't let anybody BS you otherwise.
2000 XLT Premium, V10, 4.3 LSD Rear, Edge 4.5" Hanger Lift, Landyot Radius Rods, Hellwig Sway Bar, Dual Bilsteins, 295 75 16 Nitto AT's, Billet Grill, Lengthened and Balanced Driveshaft, Hella 450's, Insulated AC Lines, Modified ZooDad, Husky Liners F to B.
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