FordExcursions.com Forums
absolutezero273c
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• Toledo, OH, USA |
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• Registered on 4/9/2004 |
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• 81 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:4/9/2004 12:13 |
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G'Day, All.
I was just looking through the forum and saw the post titled "New Beee..." from Kelly Davis. That information helped to answer some of my questions, but I had a few more if you don't mind.
Keep in mind that I will be moving from a 98 Jetta TDI to a 2000 7.3 4x4 X with any luck. So some of my questions may be really, really basic.
1. I test drove my first excursion yesterday ( an Ohio truck) and noticed what seemed to be a lot of rust on the inside of the doors and other misc hardware. I also looked at the frame and it appeared to be completely rusted. So my question is this: How much rust would I expect to find on a 2000 and do the frames appear to be excessively rusty due to lack of factory coatings?
2. If this amount of rust is normal for this climate would it be advisable to locate a truck in Texas?
3. What types of things do I need to look for when test driving a diesel 4x4 excursion? I noticed the items that were of mention in the New Beee post and wasn't sure if there was something else to look for before buying that is specific to a diesel 4x4 truck (excursion).
4. Should the front end feel as tight, while driving, as my Jetta or my wifes 2002 Windstar? This first one I drove felt like it was drifting a lot in comparison.
5. What about brake responsiveness? Should it take much force applied to the brake pedal to stop?
6. Here is the very basic 4x4 question I had eluded to: I engaged 4x4 high during the test drive and I then pulled in a driveway to turn around and head back. As I backed out of the driveway, in 4x4 high, it felt like it was binding up and required more force to backup than I thought should be necessary. I realize that when in 4x4 on dry road there will be a tendency for some binding depending upon the type of system. But this was a gravel driveway and a partially paved/very dirt covered road. Should this have happened or is it not right to drive in reverse when 4 wheel drive is engaged?
7. Any other things I should try or look for when on a test drive?
8. Lastly, when checking the oil the dip stick looked like it had been heat treated or discolored. Is this normal?
Thank you very much in advance for your help.
2001 Excursion XLT 7.3L 2x4 145K
2001 Flagstaff 829-BHS |
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bryant loke
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• bakersfield, CA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/4/2004 |
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• 62 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:4/9/2004 12:59 |
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hey all! Feels good to be on the forums again! anyway, I am going to do my best to answer some questions, but usually i will need some correcting, and refining! lol  anyways...
1. I test drove my first excursion yesterday ( an Ohio truck) and noticed what seemed to be a lot of rust on the inside of the doors and other misc hardware. I also looked at the frame and it appeared to be completely rusted. So my question is this: How much rust would I expect to find on a 2000 and do the frames appear to be excessively rusty due to lack of factory coatings?
First of all, rust is never a good things. But i live in california in a pretty dry climate, and my rear diff is covered in rust, just from everyday use and driving. I dont know about the frame, I honestly havent looked that well. (i just went and looked) There is a grip load of mud!  but as far as rust, not too much. I know that there is no rust on "misc. hardware". then again, I live in bakersfield california in the middle of the dessert!
2. If this amount of rust is normal for this climate would it be advisable to locate a truck in Texas?
You should always go for the best deal you can. And a good deal also includes quality. If you are close to texas, go for a road trip one day, and do some shopping!
3. What types of things do I need to look for when test driving a diesel 4x4 excursion? I noticed the items that were of mention in the New Beee post and wasn't sure if there was something else to look for before buying that is specific to a diesel 4x4 truck (excursion).
The "newbee" post is pretty accurate, I cant think of anything else to add to the list, it s apretty damn good one!
4. Should the front end feel as tight, while driving, as my Jetta or my wifes 2002 Windstar? This first one I drove felt like it was drifting a lot in comparison.
The front end should feel tight like a brand new car. the steering should feel responsive, but not tight or definetly not loose. I have always noticed in my X, that it pulls to the left when I have to brake hard, thus making my wheel turned over to the right at stop. Is that what you mean by drifting? Ok, also remember, even though its a ford, and is the supreme bean of all SUV's, its a 9000lbs vehicle. It aint gonna handle, steer, or do anything like a smaller (suburban ) jetta or van. Those windstars are made pretty well now a days.
5. What about brake responsiveness? Should it take much force applied to the brake pedal to stop?
like I said above, it s a huge vehicle. When you drive the x, you will learn to plan and watch the light a bit sooner because it takes a bit longer for it to stop. those stock brakes are not suitable for that truck. if you have been roming the forum, you know that we have had troubles with our brakes in the past!  (warpped rotors and such) but they ar responsive none the less, but for a safer side, brake sooner, and give a big cushion between you and that porshe carrera in front of ya! 
6. Here is the very basic 4x4 question I had eluded to: I engaged 4x4 high during the test drive and I then pulled in a driveway to turn around and head back. As I backed out of the driveway, in 4x4 high, it felt like it was binding up and required more force to backup than I thought should be necessary. I realize that when in 4x4 on dry road there will be a tendency for some binding depending upon the type of system. But this was a gravel driveway and a partially paved/very dirt covered road. Should this have happened or is it not right to drive in reverse when 4 wheel drive is engaged?
OK, 4x4.  the best sport ever invented... if you can even call it a sport...oh well! anytime you have your vehicle in four wheel drive, you will find the any type of turning, will give a bit of a bind. this is because you have twice the gears and technology trying to do the same thing a once. you are going to naturally get a "drag", but it shouldnt shudder or do anything crazy. but you will feel a, what i like to call, "drag". oh yea, for future reference, as you have mentioned, lets try not to put the truck in 4H when you are on flat ground. its not good. 
7. Any other things I should try or look for when on a test drive?
miles, interior wear and tear. You can set a powerstroke motor on fire, and drive accros country. it s a diesel, you can run em to the ground! (btw, I wouldnt recommend that fire thing, justfor insurance reasons and stuff...  )
8. Lastly, when checking the oil the dip stick looked like it had been heat treated or discolored. Is this normal?
what did you call me? lol, dunno about that... 
hey man,  , and let us know what happens in your search for the right x! if you buy a suburban, dont tell us...  lmao.
have a good one!
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JohnBoy
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• DFW, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 9/3/2002 |
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• 972 posts |
• 2 Vehicles
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Posted:4/9/2004 13:32 |
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my two cents ???
I had an all wheel drive jeep that was perfect...
but even then hard turns (lock to lock) would make it "lope" a bit because the two front wheels are going in separate arcs and HAVE to fight one another a bit...
the only way to stop that is either loose traction on the ground or in your drivetrain...
2005 6.0L 4x4 Eddie Bauer Ex
2003 6.0L 4x4 Limited Ex - traded in (BooHoo )
"The Republicans should back off and let men marry men, women marry women, and legalize abortion. In three generations there would be no Democrats." |
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absolutezero273c
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• Toledo, OH, USA |
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• Registered on 4/9/2004 |
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• 81 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:4/9/2004 15:25 |
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Thanks, Bryant and Johnboy, for the help! I'll let you know when I get one.
I've been looking for about a month but it is hard to find the right color. I'm looking for the Estate Green.  Always liked that one.
Speaking of the 4x4 binding does anyone know if the transfer case uses chain, belt or gear? Just wondering.
I was also doing some more reading and found that I need to watch for the CPS failure as well. Would this be something I should be able to talk the dealer into providing (an extra) when I drive it off the lot?
2001 Excursion XLT 7.3L 2x4 145K
2001 Flagstaff 829-BHS |
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E. Long
 
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:4/9/2004 15:58 |
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| Quote: | Thanks, Bryant and Johnboy, for the help! I'll let you know when I get one.
I've been looking for about a month but it is hard to find the right color. I'm looking for the Estate Green. Always liked that one.
Speaking of the 4x4 binding does anyone know if the transfer case uses chain, belt or gear? Just wondering.
I was also doing some more reading and found that I need to watch for the CPS failure as well. Would this be something I should be able to talk the dealer into providing (an extra) when I drive it off the lot? |
Transfer case -- not sure if it's chain or gear...my guess is chain, but I could be wrong. I'm thinking back to the NP205's, don't know what the new transfer cases these days use. Definitely not a belt.
CPS failure -- there's no prediction and there's no TSB on it, so you're going to be hard pressed getting the dealer to throw in an extra one for free. They are about $150.
As for the discoloring on the dip stick -- this is normal. Mine is like this on my 2000 X with 107,000 miles.
I think everything else was covered. You'll get that surface rust just from daily driving. I would not be scared. I would be concerned if there was any rust on the body parts, however. The only areas where I have rust is where the paint has chipped away from rocks. This tends to be on the back edges of where the windows are on the vehicle. In particular, my driver's side door has taken a beating for some reason. Big chips in the paint behind the driver's side door window as well as on the driver's side rearview mirror.
Make sure the turbo bolt TSB has been addressed on that 2000 X. The original bolts had a tendency to come loose...just look back at the turbo. There are 4 bolts -- verify that they're all there. The dealer should also be able to see if the TSB has been performed on your vehicle. If not, have them take care of it!
Good luck and welcome to the X community!!!
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
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Bob Ellenberg
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• Los Alamos, NM, USA |
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• Registered on 1/20/2004 |
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• 5 posts |
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Posted:4/13/2004 13:34 |
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I bought exactly what you want, a 2000 diesel with 95,000. There are not many out there so this is what I did: searched the internet and shopped with reputable dealers long distance. I found several in the Denver area. I asked very detailed questions and asked for close up digital photos so specific items. I bought it sight unseen, closed on the deal and went to pick it up. It was EXACTLY as represented. It was a good buy and the only flaws had been disclosed. Everything listed on this forum showed up within a month, door ajar lights, lock actuators and brake rotors. Turned the rotors and torqued the wheels (no need to replace them) and replaced all the actuators and door switches--best vehicle I have ever owned. Even though the get the snow in Denver I found no signs of rust and the others reported there was none on them either. |
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Dave Sullivan
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• Kitchener, XX, Canada |
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• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
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• 199 posts |
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Posted:4/13/2004 14:18 |
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I would definitly be taking a close look at the rust issue. I live in salty ontario and i have a dilly of a time dealing with rust. none the less, there is none on the body except in behind the rear tail light where the screw comes thru the hole. And I'm on top of that.:-)
I am still cringing from your description of the 4 wheel engagement.
What you experienced was a good thing because it tells you that the hubs are locking correctly.
Wheel hop is something you should keep to a minimum because it imposes some large stresses on various drive components. Never on dry pavement.
Dave
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Dave Sullivan
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• Kitchener, XX, Canada |
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• Registered on 2/27/2003 |
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• 199 posts |
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Posted:4/13/2004 14:22 |
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| Quote: | | I bought exactly what you want, a 2000 diesel with 95,000. There are not many out there so this is what I did: searched the internet and shopped with reputable dealers long distance. I found several in the Denver area. I asked very detailed questions and asked for close up digital photos so specific items. I bought it sight unseen, closed on the deal and went to pick it up. It was EXACTLY as represented. It was a good buy and the only flaws had been disclosed. Everything listed on this forum showed up within a month, door ajar lights, lock actuators and brake rotors. Turned the rotors and torqued the wheels (no need to replace them) and replaced all the actuators and door switches--best vehicle I have ever owned. Even though the get the snow in Denver I found no signs of rust and the others reported there was none on them either. |
Mine is a 2000 PSD LTD and only has 58,349 miles on it.
Sadly, I may loose it. I was laid off a couple of weeks ago.
Dave. |
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absolutezero273c
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• Toledo, OH, USA |
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• Registered on 4/9/2004 |
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• 81 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:4/13/2004 17:06 |
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| Quote: | | ... Everything listed on this forum showed up within a month, door ajar lights, lock actuators and brake rotors. Turned the rotors and torqued the wheels (no need to replace them) and replaced all the actuators and door switches... |
Thanks, all for the support and information. I hadn't stumbled across the door ajar light problems and the lock actuator problems on the forum yet.
I was thinking about asking for detailed pics of the car too. But I still am afraid to buy that way. There is just so much to take into consideration. I have test driven 2 of these excursions so far and would not have been able to, at least I don't think, see these imperfections in the pictures. One was really nice outside after they steam cleaned the engine and frame and rust proofed the frame but the interior was trashed. I just can't imagine being able to pick that up in a photo.
I guess it would be different if I found a reputable dealer.
Bob, did you ask the dealer for references? I mean, at that point you have to research the dealer too, yes?
Dave, sorry to hear about your emploment situation!
2001 Excursion XLT 7.3L 2x4 145K
2001 Flagstaff 829-BHS |
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