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gary ridley
clio, MI, USA
Registered on 8/28/2004
4 posts
Posted:12/28/2004 16:00
I was getting ready for a trip to Wyoming last July and the 2001 beast had about 69K miles on it so I desided to change brake pads. I was amazed when I looked at the old pads, they had a lot of life left in them. Not bad for 69K miles from what I hear on here. I changed them any ways. Didn't want to get up in the mountains with bad brakes. I put Raybestos ceramic pads on. I ALWAYS turn rotors when doing a brake job on any vehicle. I have the factory service manual and they show the rotors slipping off. WELL needless to say I wasn't that lucky. The rotors look in good shape so I didn't want to beat on them so I left them as is. I have a slight paulse when comming to a slow stop but every thing else is fine. Has any one had any luck getting their rotors off after being stuck. I don't want to use heat I'm afraid of what it might do to the seals in the hubs or damage to the brake sensors. I tried about every kind on solvent but no luck. The ceramic pads work great. I was comming down a mountain in Wyoming with a 18wheeler on my butt. I finally got a chance to let him by. My brakes were so hot they were starting to fade. Let them cool down and they are still working great.
The brake rotor's metal surface may be rust bonded to the hub so it may take some extra umph or some tapping from the back with a piece of 2x4 wood-mallet and/or dead blow mallet aloneto break the grip.
If your roads are salty up there in MI there's a good chance of rotor/hub bonding.
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel