FordExcursions.com Forums
Pro68Camaro
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• Houston, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 3/4/2005 |
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• 8 posts |
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 Posted:3/19/2005 22:06 |
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Just got an '05 Excursion 4x2 and am impressed thus far. That 6.0 has got some power! Anyway, I've read many of the posts regarding swaybar and am curious why the rear bar was not an option with the 4x2? Do I need one? Will on for the 4wd just bolt up? I tow a car trailer from time to time and want it stable. Anyone ever use an equalizer hitch? Advice?
Second question is on the trailer brake plug in. What in the world is that thing?? I had my Tahoe wired with a 7-pin plug and this thing is different. Is there an adapter I need to buy to allow me to use my 7pin female plug already on my trailer harrness? I don't really want to change my trailer plug in as it is used with other vehicles.
Thanks. |
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Jim Dupree
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• Corsicana, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 12/7/2003 |
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• 8 posts |
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Posted:3/19/2005 23:10 |
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I have had both a 2000 and 2001 both 4x4's, used with a reese equalizer hitch with dual cam sway bars towing a 35' Silver Streak. Approx. 9000 lbs with no problems all over the country. Also, the 7 pin connector is standard hookup and even can get an adapter from 7 to 4 prong. I would not think that the ford is differant that the Tahoe, as all trailer wiring should be standard on later models.
Your 05 should have come with a pigtail in glove box for hooking up brake controller. There is a plug under dash where it plugs in and then wire to brake controller. Most controllers give directions.
I use a Prodigy Controller.
If I can help let me know.
Jim |
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LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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Posted:3/20/2005 09:50 |
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Welcome to the forum (the X-files)!
You would see a good deal of cornering improvement with the addition of a Hellwig rear anti-swaybar. The drop-links will need to be shortened for your 2WD, but shortening them is also necessary when installing one on a standard-height 4WD model.
The trailer plug is the industry-standard Bargman 7-pin connector (6 pins around the perimeter & one center pin). The center pin often is used for reverse lights.
I tow an open car trailer ... about 5,600# loaded ... and I use a Reese weight distributing (W-D) hitch. I've had several folks ask my opinion on various towing arrangements, and it's surprising to learn how many folks are still not using a W-D hitch (except boat trailers with surge brakes). I think a W-D hitch ought to be mandatory equipment if the trailer is equipped with electric brakes. That W-D hitch even made a big improvement when I was towing this "relatively" lightweight trailer with my F350.
Speaking of brakes, I've seen no better brake controller than the Prodigy unit. I know it's a little expensive compared to others, but if you've used other brands, you'll really appreciate the Prodigy ... it's well worth it.
Have to add one more note: When wiring in your brake controller, use a voltmeter to double-check the functionality of the wire leads before making the final connections. I received a name brand pigtail that was either assembled wrong or the instructions were wrong, but two wires were not identified correctly. If I hadn't tested the functionality of each wire, I fear I would've fried my new Prodigy controller. |
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Jim_L
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• Northern Virginia, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 4/2/2003 |
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• 15 posts |
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Posted:3/20/2005 17:20 |
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Was reading this thread and it looked like there may be a bit of confusion here.
When it comes to towing, there are two different "sway bars" involved. There is the
one on the truck, which limits body roll while turning, which we are all familiar with
on the Ex. For those unfamiliar with towing, there may also be a swaybar that is
part of the hitch assembly. This unit mounts along side the hitch and helps
reduce the tendency of some trailers to sway back and forth behind the tow
vehicle. These are two seperate and distinctly different devices. The previous
responses each talked about one or the other, without differentiating between
them, so I just wanted to make sure we're all on the same page.
- Jim L |
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LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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Posted:3/20/2005 17:30 |
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Jim, You're absolutely correct. I never bothered with anti-trailer-sway (fishtail) devices because the very few times my 24ft enclosed trailer started doing that, I simply reached down and activated the trailer brakes ... was like dropping an anchor, and it straightened the trailer out very fast. If that problem would occur more than once per day, then I believe I would've opted for an anti-trailer-sway device of some sort ... and there are several styles available. |
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JohnBoy
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• DFW, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 9/3/2002 |
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• 972 posts |
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Posted:3/20/2005 18:08 |
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EUREKA Landyot !!!
Your off-hand comment about the wiring gves me hope 
if it's true ! --> the center pin is for REVERSE lights ????
Is it a full 12 volts that will power some aftermarket fog lights to be used as backup lights ????
Thanks...
2005 6.0L 4x4 Eddie Bauer Ex
2003 6.0L 4x4 Limited Ex - traded in (BooHoo )
"The Republicans should back off and let men marry men, women marry women, and legalize abortion. In three generations there would be no Democrats." |
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LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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Posted:3/20/2005 18:34 |
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First, I cannot verify that the center pin is connected to the Excursion's reverse lights. That pin (circuit) was not used when I had my '87 F350 crew-cab & enclosed car trailer, and since the trailer came with reverse lights already installed, I wired that center pin to the F350's reverse lights.
Second, I also do not know if the X's reverse light circuit will handle the amps required for fog or driving lights. However, you may be able to use the X's reverse light circuit to feed a relay that will trip a higher-amp circuit to the lamps of your choice through the center pin. |
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Pro68Camaro
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• Houston, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 3/4/2005 |
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• 8 posts |
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Posted:3/21/2005 20:23 |
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Thanks for the replies. The swaybar I was asking about was the rear axle type. If I need it and it will help ride quality during towing (it sounds like it helps all the time) I want to get it put on sooner than later. I saw some info about installation and it didn't look like too big of a deal to install.
Regarding the eq hitch, I pulled the trailer behind my Tahoe without any special setup and it did ok, although it had a tendency to wander a bit. I'm pretty sure I had the proper amount of tongue weight on it and I put it on the same place on the trailer everytime and it eventually seemed to get kind of loose. I kind of attributed it to my Tahoe pooping out on the rear suspension. It got to where it was kind of scary to pull. After a couple of 'minor' swing sessions, I became hyper-sensitive to movement and drove pretty slow (55 or so). I didn't want to see my race car on its side in the bar ditch! I hear the eq hitch will make it much more stable. How does it do so? Can someone point me to a link on the topic. I'm curious about the hitch swaybar also.
Regarding the plug in, I wired a 7 pin (truly a male/female 'pin' setup) on my Tahoe. I was surprised to see this 'tab type' connector on my X. That's why I asked about the adapter. I've never seen such a thing. My trailer plug obviously will not work with that. Thanks for everyone's help.
I've got a Prodigy and it definately is the ticket.
Love that diesel! |
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Jim Dupree
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• Corsicana, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 12/7/2003 |
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• 8 posts |
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Posted:3/21/2005 22:49 |
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Hi again
The spade type connector is now standard. The older round pin type is evidently what you wired to the Tahoe. As for as the equalizer hitch, the reese and most other brands actually work on a suspension basis where you apply the bars under pressure, thus creating a formula if correctly installed where a 1/3 weight is put on your trailer axels, 1/3rd on tow vehicle rear and 1/3rd on tow vehicle front. I would not tow anything over 5,000 without an equalizer hitch. Nor will I ever tow without a sway control on the hitch, These can be either friction or the reese dual cam which almost works like a 3 point hookup except when turning.
You can find all the info you want on towing , hitch, or sway bar setup on any RV forum.
I'll try and look at the wiring diagram for the X and give it to you spade by spade.
Jim |
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85MH325
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• Eastern, IA, USA |
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• Registered on 3/20/2004 |
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• 54 posts |
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Posted:3/23/2005 06:23 |
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Since I have had my Excursion, I have become VERY familiar with trailer sway, it's causes and remedies. I tow a 34 triple-axle Airstream 34' behind mine. If you've followed my posts on my Firestone R4S tire odessy, LandYot's radius rods, and the Helwig sway bar, you'll know that I have been diligently trying to solve all of the vehicle-induced sway issues in my tow setup.
I tow the Airstream with the Ex, have a Tekonsha Voyager brake controller (I have a Prodigy in my Toyota, but the Voyager several years ago, and it was the top-of-the-line before the Prodigy), and use a Reese Dual-Cam hi-performance weight distributing/sway control hitch.
Although the Airstream tri-axle is one of the most stable and least-likely trailers to sway, towing it with the Excursion has always felt like i was driving on marbles. I've replaced hitch parts, tires on the trailer, tires on the Ex, checked air pressure religously, made sure the hitch is properly set up, made sure that the trailer was properly loaded... and still have a scary 'vague' feeling like the back end of the Ex 'wiggles' on the road. Constant steering input was required, and getting passed by trucks was truly frightening.
It was those issues that actually led me to the Forums last year... what I found here was LandYot's excellent assessment of what happens with a stock Excursion's spring stack under load. My quest for taming the beast began... It is my hope that my trailer sway (mostly wiggle with the tri-axle Airstream) will now be entirely eliminated with the addition of new shocks, LandYot's radius rods and the Helwig sway bar.
Trailer sway is induced by and stems from a number of causes: the most common is probably low tire pressures and sidewall flex... and it is just as commonly caused by low tire pressures on the tow vehicle as on the towed trailer. Next is trailer loading that is too light on the tongue. Ideally, 15% of your towed load should rest on the tongue. As the load shifts to the rear of the trailer, and lightens the tongue the more the trailer will tend to sway.
"Trailer sway" is an oscillation of the trailer that begins because of any one or combination of factors. As the speed of the vehicle remains steady (frequency in a sine wave) the energy transmitted in the oscillation causes the trailer to swing in a wider and wider arc (amplitude). At some point, the potential energy stored in the trailer's oscillations becomes sufficient to overcome the traction of the rear axle, and the tail wags the dog (so to speak) causing a crash.
Sway controls on the trailer, most commonly the Dual Cam setup, (and other similar designs), friction sway bars etc. attempt to hold the trailer and keep it from beginning the oscillations. They are only adequate however, when all of the other factors (trailer loading, proper tire type and pressures, etc.) AND tow-vehicle design shortcomings have been eliminated first.
My problems with trailer 'wiggle' are apparently induced by design flaws in the Excursion itself; most prounounced is the 'rear-end steering' that happens when the body moves over the top of the axle because the rear axle spring stack and spacer block isn't sufficiently rigid enough to keep it centered.
The trailer, of course, is attached to the reciever hitch, and subsequently the frame. With input from the trailer onto the frame, the body moves over the axle, but the axle remains in place causing the 'wiggle' that I feel while towing. It's not a vague feeling, but it's a very unsettling experience. And I certainly have felt like I wouldn't necessarily have the kind of control I want in a panic situation as there's no way to know exactly how the rear end of the Ex would respond.
Hopefully through the installation of the Helwig sway bar which controls body roll, and LandYot's radius rods which control axle wrap and lateral movement of the axle, the input of the trailer tongue will no longer be able to move the body over the axle and induce that 'wiggle' in my rig. The one thing that I've REALLY noticed with the installation of the radius rods is an incredible improvement in braking without a spring-induced 'lurch' at the stop.
Hope this helps...
Roger |
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