FordExcursions.com Forums
Sheboyganjohn
 |
|
• Sheboygan, WI, USA |
|
• Registered on 3/14/2005 |
|
• 38 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
|
|
 Posted:4/10/2005 21:18 |
|
|
Well I took a peak under the truck when I was stopped at a parking lot and it looks like I have a very small oil drip from either the back of the oil pan or the rear main seal. Is this something that is covered by the 5 year 100K warranty on the diesel engines? I just want to know how much to fight the dealer if they try to tell me it is not covered, not bad enough of a leak, etc. especially since I am less then 6 months out on the end of the 5 years.
2001 7.3 PSD 4WD X.
Rancho 9000X all the way around with rear Hellwig
Pyro, tranny, and boost overhead gauges
Predator programmer.
Magnaflow 3 1/2" down pipe 4"back T-409 SS (waiting on install) |
|
Eddie Henson
 |
|
• Cordova, TN, USA |
|
• Registered on 12/8/2004 |
|
• 122 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
|
|
|
Posted:4/11/2005 02:40 |
|
|
While installing my ftvb from Bob Riley, I also noticed some oil residue around my rear main seal  . Could not really tell if that was where it was coming from or not. No drips or dark spots on the drive way that caught my attention. I would like to know if this is covered as well since I am about 2 months out from the end of my warranty. Hopefully this is not a sign of things to come  
Eddie Henson
2000 Ford Excursion XLT 7.3L PSD
203 degree Thermo; Factory Tech valve body; CCV mod; HX mod; Rancho RS9000 shocks; Shimmed FPR @ 67; Walker BTM; Evans NPG Coolant; Dieselsite Coolant Filter Kit; Dieselsite Heater Shutoff Valve; Zoodad Mod; WeatherTech In-channel Visors; Acetoned Badges; PSD Badges; Landyot's Gen II Radius Rods
"If you don't like America, Get the hell out !!" - John Rich |
|
Jay Hanratty
 |
|
• Millbury, MA, USA |
|
• Registered on 8/13/2004 |
|
• 35 posts |
|
|
|
|
Posted:4/11/2005 06:09 |
|
|
Hi
I discovered the same thing, Ford Tech suggested that I tighten all the clamps around the base of the turbo and inter cooler tubes. Worked, all my leaks went away, clamps tend to loosen up as the hose shrink, at some point I need to change all the hoses and clamps. |
|
E. Long
 
 |
• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
|
• Atlanta, GA, USA |
|
• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
|
• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
|
|
|
Posted:4/11/2005 08:13 |
|
|
| Quote: | Hi
I discovered the same thing, Ford Tech suggested that I tighten all the clamps around the base of the turbo and inter cooler tubes. Worked, all my leaks went away, clamps tend to loosen up as the hose shrink, at some point I need to change all the hoses and clamps. |
I've had this problem 3-4 times in the nearly 140k I've put on my '00 7.3L. It has been bad turbo o-rings each time. They were covered under warranty.
They'll put some dye in the oil to see where the leak is coming from. When I originally had this problem in my X, I took it to an incompetent dealer who said it was the rear main seal. They replaced the rear main, only to have the oil leak be there immediately after I picked it up. Brought it back to the dealer, they said the seal must have been bad...so they replaced it again...guess what! Same problem. I took it to another dealer who got it right the first time. I spoke to the older diesel mechanic and he explained that it's a common mistake to make if someone's newer to the diesel. 
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
|
Sheboyganjohn
|
|
• Sheboygan, WI, USA |
|
• Registered on 3/14/2005 |
|
• 38 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
|
|
|
Posted:4/12/2005 05:36 |
|
|
So if it is a turbo oil leak due to o-rings am I better off having the dealer do it or is this something I should tackle on my own? From what I understand it is a $100 deductable to have the engine worked on and if it is an easy fix to replace the o-rings I don't see why I would want to go to the dealer. I would assume removing the turbo would not be too much extra work when I am replacing the exhaust system.
2001 7.3 PSD 4WD X.
Rancho 9000X all the way around with rear Hellwig
Pyro, tranny, and boost overhead gauges
Predator programmer.
Magnaflow 3 1/2" down pipe 4"back T-409 SS (waiting on install) |
|
E. Long
|
• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
|
• Atlanta, GA, USA |
|
• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
|
• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
|
|
|
Posted:4/12/2005 07:16 |
|
|
| Quote: | | So if it is a turbo oil leak due to o-rings am I better off having the dealer do it or is this something I should tackle on my own? From what I understand it is a $100 deductable to have the engine worked on and if it is an easy fix to replace the o-rings I don't see why I would want to go to the dealer. I would assume removing the turbo would not be too much extra work when I am replacing the exhaust system. |
I have personally never done it as the $100 deductible seemed reasonable to me considering I never knew specifically where it was leaking. If it happens again now that I'm outside of the 100K warranty, I will probably try it myself, but would need a "how to" article as a reference. If you do it yourself, please take pics for the rest of us!
-Eric
'67 Galaxie 500 - 390 FE, .030" over, FE to AOD adapter, disc brake conversion. The Daily Driver.
'00 Excursion - 7.3L PSD, LANDYOT Gen-II Radius Rods, Factory Tech Valve Body, 200K+ miles and going |
|
glenn z
 |
|
• harrison twp., MI, USA |
|
• Registered on 8/22/2003 |
|
• 63 posts |
|
|
|
|
Posted:4/15/2005 15:10 |
|
|
i have had the same drip a few times, all related to dirty air filters, change filter, run it hard for a while and leak disappers
glenn z
owner-operator MTR PERFORMANCE ( Muscle, Trucks, and Rods ), high performance and offroad performance
www.mtrperformance.com
FOR SALE........2000 X limited, 7.3 PSD V codes with front add a leaf, 5 inch rear blocks, rear hellwig, rancho rs9000 all 4 corners, landyot radius rods, 305/70/16 rubber, issapro gauges pillar mounted, ccv, tymer, straight piped, added driving lights, headlight covers, vhs entertainment unit,
1939 ford coupe, supercharged 351 cleveland, 33 x 19.5 x 15 mickeys out back, 700 + HP, diamond in the rough
new addition to garage is a 2002 Harley Softail Duece, stage 1 KIt, few extra goodies |
|
Sheboyganjohn
|
|
• Sheboygan, WI, USA |
|
• Registered on 3/14/2005 |
|
• 38 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
|
|
|
Posted:4/16/2005 06:09 |
|
|
Air filter in new in the last 2000 miles. It looks dirty around the turbo base so it might be a oil leak up there. I will take it to the dealer next week fork over the $100 and let them have at it.
2001 7.3 PSD 4WD X.
Rancho 9000X all the way around with rear Hellwig
Pyro, tranny, and boost overhead gauges
Predator programmer.
Magnaflow 3 1/2" down pipe 4"back T-409 SS (waiting on install) |
|
Empire1
 |
|
• Sacramento, CA, USA |
|
• Registered on 2/17/2005 |
|
• 13 posts |
|
|
|
|
Posted:4/16/2005 08:34 |
|
|
I had an oil leak on my '02 7.3L. Not much oil, there was only about a drop or two per week of a very dark oil. I could see it was coming from the right side of the block.
I took it to the dealer to have it fixed (under the extended warranty). They explained that the air filter was clogged, which causes the engine to suck air through the crankcase. It picks up oil vapor which is deposited in the air intake system. It then leaks out, drips out through a vent hole and causes the "oil leak."
I explained to the dealer that the air filter has only 500 miles on it. They said it was a residual leak.
They cleaned up the block and the leak has not returned.
I will give it another month and check the side of the block again. |
|
|
|
