FordExcursions.com Forums
superduty59
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• Carmel, IN, USA |
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• Registered on 3/2/2006 |
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• 19 posts |
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 Posted:3/28/2006 16:59 |
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this weekend i put a hellwig swaybar and new brakes and rotors (slotted and drilled) all around.
love the difference the swaybar makes but for some strange reason the steering wheel bobbles back and forth when i apply the brakes some times. i torqued all lugnuts at 155 ft. pds. and double checked the install but can't figure out the steering bobble.
any help for a brother X-man?
2001 Xcursion w/ diablo predator, KN air kit, bilsteins all around, hellwig swaybar. |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
• 1
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Posted:3/28/2006 18:42 |
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Can't explain the wobble but I can say the revised wheelnut torque is 165 ft-lbs
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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Hawkeyes
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• St. Paul, MN, USA |
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• Registered on 12/3/2004 |
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• 43 posts |
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Posted:8/3/2006 12:45 |
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| Quote: | this weekend i put a hellwig swaybar and new brakes and rotors (slotted and drilled) all around.
love the difference the swaybar makes but for some strange reason the steering wheel bobbles back and forth when i apply the brakes some times. i torqued all lugnuts at 155 ft. pds. and double checked the install but can't figure out the steering bobble.
any help for a brother X-man?
2001 Xcursion w/ diablo predator, KN air kit, bilsteins all around, hellwig swaybar. |
Our trucks have known issues with brakes that require extra attention and maintenance.  Wobble is most likely due to uneven pad pressure that will create uneven braking from side to side. This is caused by:
*Sticky caliper pistons;
*Sticky brake pad tabs;
*Worn caliper pins;
*Poorly lubricated tabs and/or pins.
Solutions are as follows:
*Replace the calipers – use Motorcraft rebuilt from Ford dealer, about $100 each with your core. Price is the same as good quality Fenco or other aftermarket. Do not use Cardone! I would replace caliper every other pad change, especially in high corrosion (winter/salt) parts of the country.
*Look at the ‘ears’ or ‘tabs’ of the brake pad backing plate. This is the portion that slides across the metal ‘slippers’ that snap onto the caliper. Some manufacturers use a steel plate covering the entire back of the pad (Performance Friction Z Pad is one). These tend to be rough in the tab section and can quite easily hang up in the slipper. You will have to file/grind the ear to shape, smooth & polish the edges, then heavily grease with an Ultralube (green) or other brake lube.
The alternative is to buy a high quality pad (Porterfield Carbon Kevlar or OEM) that has a thinner backing plate & tabs already machined to fit and slide properly.
*Replace the caliper pins and rubber boots at every pad change. They cost $20/set from the dealer. If you don’t do this you can expect a sticking/uneven pressure problem before the pads wear out. Green pin goes to the side closest to bleed screw. An excellent picture identification/explanation can be found here:
http://community.webshots.com/album/63633281xQgesI
Make sure you don’t put the rubber boot on backwards! If you do, you’ll lose that pin to water/dust/corrosion in a couple of months. Then your pads hang up and the wheel wobbles, pulls to one side, etc.
*Make sure you use lots of brake lube on the pins, boots, caliper piston seals, slippers and pad tabs, backing plates. I use Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube. Buy 5-10 of the single packets found on the parts store counter. They are cheaper ($1 each) than buying a 2-pak off the shelf.
Hawkeyes |
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