Keith Ruff
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• Manahawkin, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 8/30/2004 |
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• 41 posts |
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 Posted:5/3/2007 13:47 |
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Not your standard easy diagnosis this time. When the X is cold, brakes work fine. When the brakes/rotors heat up after awhile of driving and heavy braking, a vibration throughout the truck (not felt in the peddle) is felt when applying the brakes and just before stopping its at its worst. My mechanic gave the X an initial checkout and the pads are at 80% life, rotors and calipers appear to look good. He took the X for a ride, and after about 20 minutes and hard braking, the vibration reared its ugly head. I needed the X back at lunch time today, so he wants me to leave it with him next week for a day to figure it out. He is stumped because warped rotors should be warped all of the time, not just when they get hot. He's thinking maybe a brake line is collapsing perhaps, but wants to check out a bunch of stuff to figure it out. I installed slotted rotors on the front wheels about 15-20K miles ago with high performance pads front and rear. I'm pretty sure the Ford dealer did a brake fluid flushing at some point, will have to look back on my maintenance records. Anybody have this problem that can lend some advice of where to check? |
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59Excursion
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• Falls City, NE, USA |
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• Registered on 3/19/2007 |
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• 14 posts |
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Posted:5/3/2007 13:50 |
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Don't know how to check but maybe the ABS controller (once hot, actuating when it shouldn't be)? Does it only do it when braking hard or will very light braking bring on the vibrations as well?
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2000 Excursion 4x4 - Planning to swap in a 5.9 cummins soon! |
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LANDYOT
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• Subscriber since 11/23/2003 |
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• Newport News, VA, USA |
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• Registered on 7/15/2003 |
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• 1,110 posts |
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Posted:5/3/2007 20:15 |
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| Quote: | | I installed slotted rotors on the front wheels about 15-20K miles ago with high performance pads front and rear. |
Slotted rotors are "OK," but did you buy rotors that have been cryogenically treated? I don't think it's unusal at all for rotors to warp AFTER they've gotten warm. To me, that means the heat is causing a rotor to warp ... something entirely possible. If the rotor metal was not manufactured using good quality control measures, then it's possible a portion of your rotor is suffering from a greater amount of thermal expansion than the rest of the rotor. |
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monsta
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• The Big Island, HI, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2002 |
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• 1,056 posts |
• 2
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Posted:5/4/2007 02:21 |
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Keith, you got a 4wd or a 2wd?
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Keith Ruff
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• Manahawkin, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 8/30/2004 |
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• 41 posts |
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Posted:5/4/2007 12:25 |
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4wd. Can't remember exactly where I got these rotors and pads, but it was from a recommended source on this board. I can see a rotor warping with heat, but not going back to it's original non-warped state. Hard braking gets the rotors to heat up, once I get the vibration to happen, I can apply the brakes lightly and have vibration. A friend seems to think perhaps the performance pads on the rear stock OEM rotors may be incompatible, i.e., either the rotors or pads are not cooling down quick enough and causing the vibration. |
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monsta
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• The Big Island, HI, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2002 |
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• 1,056 posts |
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Posted:5/8/2007 04:42 |
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OkaY...crap, I don't wanna go through this subject again but...
Warped rotors are a myth. I even bought into it years ago but now see the truth. Our brakes do not get hot enough to warp due to heat...ever. Well, maybe over loaded to 23K GCWR, going down a 17 mile 15% grade with the brakes full on and then you end up in a lake at the bottom. 
What I suspect is improper lugnut torque Loosen them all and properly retighten them to 160lb ft. Dollars to doughnuts they reinstalled them with an impact wrench.
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Keith Ruff
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• Manahawkin, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 8/30/2004 |
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• 41 posts |
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Posted:5/11/2007 09:28 |
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Mechanic couldn't figure out what exactly was causing the vibration so we were at the point of swapping out parts with new parts. Started with the rear because the rotors were stock OEM, never replaced. The plan was to cut those rear rotors and install new pads, but the rotors were beyond spec, so they couldn't cut them, had to replace. Installed the new rotors and pads, helped somewhat, vibration wasn't as bad and took longer to rear it's head, but alas, once I got home and jammed on my brakes one last time, grind type noise appeared and vibration was felt up front. Mechanic said theres 80% life left on those front pads too, not sure why this is happening. Looks like I'll have to cut the front slotted rotors and install new performance pads there too. I will be towing the 32 foot travel trailer soon, summer camping trips are on their way! Gotta sort out this brake vibe issue, gets worse when trailering. Landyots Radius Rods are on their way too, Landyot will be installing them for me when I get down there for a business trip mid June, looking forward to seeing the difference everybody is bragging about. Hellwig rear anti-sway bar is on it's way from JC Whitney too. This better all be worth it, just dumped $3000 smackers into this 2001 80K mile Ex Limited, opted to spend the money rather than buy a new $50K Expedition EL. |
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CHPMustang
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• Plano, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 7/24/2002 |
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• 1,800 posts |
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Posted:5/12/2007 20:01 |
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Shot in the dark,what poundage torque is being applied to the wheelnuts as improper torqueing can cause issues.
Bill
2002 Excursion XLT-P 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel
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monsta
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• The Big Island, HI, USA |
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• Registered on 1/5/2002 |
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• 1,056 posts |
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Posted:5/13/2007 03:37 |
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After you check the torque on the front lugs you might wanna check out the steering stabilizer, too. A worn/leaky/ineffective one can cause weird braking vibrations and accentuate those vibrations that emanate normally from elsewhere.
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Keith Ruff
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• Manahawkin, NJ, USA |
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• Registered on 8/30/2004 |
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• 41 posts |
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Posted:5/18/2007 13:34 |
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Brought the X back to the mechanic today, he said his lathe could not cut my slotted rotors and he asked 3 other shops if they could cut slotted rotors, no luck. He sanded them down a bit and installed new ceramic pads, no luck, but I did get a $200 bill !! Pads are warranted for life, so if I decide to change out the rotors, I'll save the $85 for new pads. Will have to find a specialty shop that can cut slotted rotors. |
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