FordExcursions.com Forums
dnp
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• Jackson, MS, USA |
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• Registered on 1/20/2003 |
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• 37 posts |
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 Posted:5/31/2003 11:39 |
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Just wanted to thank all of you out there who helped me identify the source for my idling problems! I finally got around to making the recommended fix, and it's working beautifully! Thanks again!
Just in case any of you might run into the problem I was having, a quick reiteration of the problem/cure:
During cold weather, my 60,000 mile 2000 V-10 4x4 started having a problem at startup. When I would crank the truck, it would not idle unless I cracked the throttle above the idle position. Even then, until it warmed up, it would not idle when I came to a stop. For some time, once it warmed up, the problem would go away, and the truck would idle/run fine.
Initially, I thought it might be a problem with my coolant temperature sensor, since I had been advised that these trucks do really funny things if that sensor goes bad (FYI: I have come to learn - after purchasing the wrong part [electrical] that I now cannot return - that 2000 model Excursions DO NOT have a coolant temperature sensor but have a cylinder head temperature switch instead. One would think that the Ford parts guys would be able to tell this from their computers, but I can tell you from experience they either can't and/or don't care) In any event, once I determined that this truck is devoid of a CTS, I came to this board (or maybe it was even the earlier board at fordexcursions.com) for advice. That's when you guys advised me that it was most likely the Idle Air Control valve.
I went along for far too much time without changing it, because I dreaded having to get under the hood and change it (I found it one cold day, and it's located at the top and rear of the intake, just aft of the throttle body. Furthermore, it's located underneath where the cowl extends over this area of the engine) Well, let me tell you, it looks a lot more difficult to get to than it is! There are no clamps holding on the rubber hose on the back of it, and if you approach it from the driver's side, the change is no big deal at all! ~$60 and 30 minutes is all it'll cost you.
Oh yeah, one other thing: My ABS light was on and I also learned the source/fix of that problem on this board. It took me 10 minutes to replace the $16 sensor on top of the rear axle, and that problem is cured as well!
Sorry for the long note, but (1) I wanted to thank y'all (I'm in the South) for the combined knowledge on this board, and (2) offer some details in case they might be of some benefit to others with similar symptoms.
Thanks again,
dnp |
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